# How much for a recycled asphalt driveway?



## Stuart (May 21, 2004)

Have a single lane driveway that is approximately 800 feet long. Its about 50 years old so it has an excellent base from all the previous materials used (shell, gravel, limestone etc). How much for someone to come in, do some very minor grading mostly to knock the center hump down a bit, lay the material, roll it out, oil it, then roll it again?

Thanks


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## acoastalbender (Jul 16, 2011)

Can't tell you what it costs here as I did one in the mountains some years ago, but at the time was 12 bucks a ton. It's a really great alternative to anything else. You need about 3-4 inches minimum and I suppose oil would work down here but I used water. The most important thing is to compact it soon after spreading it. Roll it with something heavy...jm.02



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## coogerpop (Sep 3, 2009)

Just wait,the gypsys will be by and make you "Such a deal" because they have some material left over from another job......


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## Palmetto (Jun 28, 2004)

The hardest part is finding the stuff. I got some from a guy that had a full size dump truck, and dump trailer that he hauled behind his dump truck. They where re-doing some highway somewhere local, and it was one of those "get it right now" kinda deals. All said and done it was close $425 a load (that was both the truck & trailer). I spread it with a box blade, and rolled it. It really starts to bond together good when it heats up in the summer.

You would think oiling it would help it bond back together, but I have heard that oil breaks down asphalt. For that reason, I didnt oil mine. Its been down for 3 years now, and is solid!


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## wolffman73 (Nov 30, 2011)

It's a very good material for roads. But dam the bermuda loves to grow in it.


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## corkysteve (Jan 16, 2010)

Call Cherry Crushed Concrete at 713-987-0000. They have tons of the stuff at great prices.


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## slabnabbin (May 25, 2010)

Where are you located?


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## Stuart (May 21, 2004)

I'm in Angleton. Just trying to figure out a square foot price at x inches thick.


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## Jolly Roger (May 21, 2004)

Stuart said:


> Have a single lane driveway that is approximately 800 feet long. Its about 50 years old so it has an excellent base from all the previous materials used (shell, gravel, limestone etc). How much for someone to come in, do some very minor grading mostly to knock the center hump down a bit, lay the material, roll it out, oil it, then roll it again?
> 
> Thanks


Depends on who you talk to, how much they have stockpiled, and if they are reselling it, buying it, or using it to make mix with.

If you have to buy it, can figure about 15-20$ per Cubic yard delivered (depnding on distance from source) for the material, then the labor to grade and place. You can find the material cheaper, if you have time to look. I often sell it for much less, but depends on a lot of factors. Should be no more then one knock down machine( cheapest being a tractor with box blade) and roller (pull behind). Depending on how hungry the contractor is, or if it is Bubba from down the road. Contractor having insurance, Bubba does not. You can expect around $50-80 an hour to grade and place. You job should take no more then 10 hours, but may drag out for two days due to trucking, what pieces of equipment thay have to do the job with and getting equipment moved. Do not let the hour rate fool you, Bubba that charges 40$ an hour with his old ford jubilee tractor and railroad iron drag will take two to three times longer then someone with dozer charging $80 and hour.

The best choice for you would be a contractor with a D3 dozer, small motor grader, his own truck, and roller. There should be someone in your area, good chance a retired road hand. He will have all the correct contacts, equipment and experience to get the job done fast, correct and not destroy any property or cut phone lines.

There should be no need to oil it if done proper. If you have any specific questions feel free to ask.



Palmetto said:


> The hardest part is finding the stuff. I got some from a guy that had a full size dump truck, and dump trailer that he hauled behind his dump truck. They where re-doing some highway somewhere local, and it was one of those "get it right now" kinda deals. All said and done it was close $425 a load (that was both the truck & trailer). I spread it with a box blade, and rolled it. It really starts to bond together good when it heats up in the summer.
> 
> You would think oiling it would help it bond back together, but I have heard that oil breaks down asphalt. For that reason, I didnt oil mine. Its been down for 3 years now, and is solid!


Sounds like you got some oil sand, or reclaimed silcoat. Either way they make primo driveway material. You paid about half price, this is the normal contractor skim price.


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## Palmetto (Jun 28, 2004)

Stuart,
this guy does good work..
http://marshalfinleyconstruction.com/default.aspx



Jolly Roger said:


> Sounds like you got some oil sand, or reclaimed silcoat. Either way they make primo driveway material. You paid about half price, this is the normal contractor skim price.


Maybe so...never heard it called that though....
When delivered, it looks like chopped up asphalt. Some little rocks have yellow paint on them, and somtimes you will see pieces of those little square reflectors. Size of the chunks is very consistent too. I have always heard it called "milled asphalt".

I got some stuff one time from a different guy that I could believe was "oil sand". It looked like the road base from under a paved road. Mostly sandy gravel with BIG chunks of asphalt here and there. It was hard to level with those big chunks hanging up in the blade and dragging.


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## Jolly Roger (May 21, 2004)

Palmetto said:


> Stuart,
> this guy does good work..
> http://marshalfinleyconstruction.com/default.aspx
> 
> ...


In general it is all called millings. There are several different kinds of asphalt, sealcoat is one type. The oil will reactivate around 100 degrees. 
There can be several layers of sealcoat on a road. At times we will mill the sealcoat first, then drop back and mill the asphalt separate. Your sealcoat will have some asphalt mixed in with it. TXDOT tries to recycle as much as possible, if reusing the asphalt millings to make more asphalt you do not want a lot of sealcoat oil in it.

Oil sand is most often used on county roads, it is made with an oil similar to sealcoat oil that is heated to 180 or so and mixed with sand. During the summer it will heat back up an becomes workable again. But with age the oil breaks down and will set up. With milled asphalt the oil will not reactivate until it reaches temps of around 250. Most people can not tell the difference between sealcoat and asphalt when looking at it on a road or once it is milled up. But if your oil is reactivating in the summer, you have a lot of sealcoat in your mix. This is perfect for a driveway, as the oil will kill out over time and harden.

Probably more then you wanted to know about asphalt. But if you are buying more in the future, you can usually get millings with a lot of sealcoat in it cheaper then millings with only asphalt.


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## Auer Power (Jun 16, 2009)

Palmetto said:


> Stuart,
> this guy does good work..
> http://marshalfinleyconstruction.com/default.aspx


I can recommend them as well. They did my pond/pad & driveway.


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## Palmetto (Jun 28, 2004)

Jolly Roger said:


> Probably more then you wanted to know about asphalt. .


LOL....Thanks. Thats good info!


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## Runway (Feb 6, 2005)

X2 on the use of asphalt millings for a driveway. I did a similar size driveway 5 years ago in Sargent when they were doing repair work on 2004/2611. A key will be to watch for repair work in your neck of the woods - sometimes you can get a good rate if you are close by - the cost of hauling is a major factor. Most asphalt contractors will keep the material, it is also known as black gold. They know they can sell it and it doesn't rot in their yards if they have to sit on it for awhile. I don't think you will regret it (at least until the first time you walk across it bare-footed :spineyes: )


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