# floor hatches



## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

I have a skeeter and have been wanting to clean out my center console and move my batteries inside the hull and forward about 4 to 5 ft form where they are. ( picture shown newer model with floor hatch that mine does not have but drew out in red where I am thinking) Has anyone ever cut a hole in there floor and install something like a tempress hatch? How will this affect floor strenght? According to the web site they can not only be walked on top, but are fine with people standing on them. I would cut the hole, then get my battery trays glassed in, install hatch and get a liner so the area could be used for storage. Anyone do this?


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

Or any other ideas as well. Not sure what it would cost for a fiberglass shop to create a hatch with custom lid but would immagine it would be pretty expensive.


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## Copano/Aransas (Dec 18, 2011)

Get the skill saw out LOL. Should not be to expensive if you go with the plastic hatch.


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## wolffman73 (Nov 30, 2011)

Try to find a better hatch for that position. Isn't that right where you will step down from bow deck?


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

Yes it is. Any idea what brand to look at?


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## wolffman73 (Nov 30, 2011)

Give me some time on Google skeeter. I'm usually pretty good at finding stuff.


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

Cool, thanks


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## wolffman73 (Nov 30, 2011)

http://greatlakesskipper.com/produc...utions-30-x-13-m-1330-pw-boat-deck-hatch.html

Have a look. There are different sizes on the website.


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## Newbomb Turk (Sep 16, 2005)

How will it drain?


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

Not to worried about drains as it is a sealing hatch with o rings all around. Thanks for the link ! If you do a liner, you could easily put a drain that would just go in to the bilge area. Does not seem like there are any real cons on doing this,,,,,,,,,, I figured I would get a bunch of "don't do it" replies.


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## bearintex (Feb 7, 2006)

yellowskeeter said:


> Not to worried about drains as it is a sealing hatch with o rings all around. Thanks for the link ! If you do a liner, you could easily put a drain that would just go in to the bilge area. Does not seem like there are any real cons on doing this,,,,,,,,,, I figured I would get a bunch of "don't do it" replies.


Don't put batteries in a sealed enclosure. Buildup of hydrogen is a bad thing.


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

Thanks for pointing that out. I am going to move my batteries inside the hull but not in the box. Hatch is simply for access to them if needed and may get a drop in liner for storage.


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

I went and looked at the area and the panel that has no skid pattern on the skeeter is 24.5x21 as you can see in pic







I took a pic of the inside of the hull. The drain you see is the one from the front compartment then it goes back to the bulkhead that I think is directly under the center console. This is where I would like to put my batteries. Wonder if that would be possible.


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## Flat Trout (Aug 2, 2011)

What is going on in the upper right corner of that bulkhead?


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

It's a rail that is formed in case anything needs to be ran through from the console to the front. Pretty much the same bulkheads they use on all models and the 24 has a couple live well lines running through it.


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## KEMPOC (Aug 24, 2010)

I think it is a capital idea. However, you are going to have to vent that battery area. Shouldnt be too hard to engineer. I would want a powered vent fan running while batteries are charging. 
You would hate that lid you pictured. I have had those in Majeks. They are no bueno! That is a nice boat. Spend a few bucks to have a fiberglass shop build you a nice, strong hatch.
I think its a good idea. Good luck.


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

I am going to look at that option as well before I do anything. I did however think that sealed agm batteries like the Optimas I have did not de gads when charging?


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## KEMPOC (Aug 24, 2010)

You are correct. However, I have had bad luck with Optimas for cranking batteries. The Interstate guy says it's because the alternator re-charges them too fast. Thoughts??? I have gone back to 31case lead acid for cranking.


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

I have 5 of the biggest blue tops they make (can't remember the model ) going on 3 years and no issues with any of them. I run 2 house and three for trolling motor and piggy back my 24v system for my underwater lights from them as well. Scary thing is that is 300lbs of batteries as I found out this morning gathering all of my information before I got on the road.


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## KEMPOC (Aug 24, 2010)

I have been told that there is some sort of charge regulating system available to dampen the charge when the engine is running. Do you have, or know anything about this?
I was running Blue tops. Kept eating the cranking batteries. The trolling bateries have been no problem. As I said, the Interstate guy blamed the fast charge from the motor alternator. ???


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

I have 5 of the biggest blue tops they make (can't remember the model ) going on 3 years and no issues with any of them. I run 2 house and three for trolling motor and piggy back my 24v system for my underwater lights from them as well. Scary thing is that is 300lbs of batteries as I found out this morning gathering all of my information before I got on the road.


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## CopeKB (Jul 2, 2012)

I have those hatches on my boat and they leak. It may just be a bad install ok mine though. I just got the boat used and it hasn't bothered me enough to mess with it yet.


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

Well I finally tracked down my fiberglass guy, known him for a long time and does amazing work. He did all of my work at the correct craft/ski nautique shop and did all of the work for Jackson Fiberglass repair until Mr. Jackson died. He is building a custom hatch to look exactly like factory with the same diamond tread finish, as well as a custom 5 battery tray to go between the stringers so boat goes to him tomorrow. Once I get it back I am doing a complete makeover of the wiring under the console, adding my HDS 5 as my instrument gauge cluster, and then doing the wetsounds stereo install. I also think the boat will run even better with the battery weight a couple feet forward, and will be nice to have a clean area under the console.


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## ReelWork (May 21, 2004)

That's what you need to do YS - have that lid made to match or accept that you have a $40 hatch on a $50k boat that looks out of place. 

Your plan is sound now and you know it's going to look the way you want it to (and that's the same way I would want it to look too!).


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

Exactly. The plastic hatch would be purely temporary. Surgery begins Tuesday and leaving it to the professionals. I better sell my kidney today before I start drinking. this is something I've wanted to do since the day I got my boat and still can't figure out why boat companies don't do this from the get go. Very little maintenance goes in to batteries, and having them strategically placed in the hull seems like a much better place, as long as you can have access to them. On boats that have their tanks in the stringers, this can add as valuable storage space.


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## ReelWork (May 21, 2004)

Agreed... My Pure Bay has the floor access between the stringers running forward of the console with the tank below the console and I use that storage area to keep big bumpers along with a half dozen or so noodles with gobs of room left over. Suppose one could rig up some type of slider system and potentially place batteries down there just as you said, lower the location of the weight and move some weight forward. 

Definitely seems like more and more bay boats are shifting so much of their weight to the rear, not to mention 4-Strokers have added 100-150 lbs on average hanging off the back - yet we still need to keep some weight up front (read forward) so when the water gets rough the nose/bow/keel not only pierce the waves but have the weight behind it to keep it from bobbing right back up like a cork. 

Betting you're really going to like this setup! 

Give you a shout later this week. Interested in doing some fab work too...


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## blow up (Dec 31, 2011)

Since your lid will be mounted flush make sure you put a drain for the lip. 
Sounds like you are doing it right and I'm looking forward to seeing finished pics!


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

I am going to get him to make a hatch similar to the ones on the rear of the boat. It will be a wet hatch and not designed for dry stuff. The lip will be formed in for sure. 

Reelwoork, yeah totally agree. I know my boat runs *** heavy and like how it runs with the front live well full so i think I am going in the right direction. With the added weight, then 10 ft power pole plus gear and all it does add up. I do possibly want to add a second power pole down the line so that will even help more.


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## blow up (Dec 31, 2011)

What about the condesation causing corrosion on your terminals/wiring?


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

Won't be a problem. Boat Is kept on land and in dry storage no where close to water. Hatch will not be sealed and when I store my boat I always open all hatches to vent, dry out etc. Plenty of air space and air flow. Basically think of a hatch that opens up to the inside of your hull. The area that I show in the picture is from the from of the boat where the anchor hatch is all the way to the center of the console. Does not seem like that on the pic but I am guessing about 12' or so. Lots of wasted space. The new skeeters have a wet storage in this area as well.


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## blow up (Dec 31, 2011)

yellowskeeter said:


> Won't be a problem. Boat Is kept on land and in dry storage no where close to water. Hatch will not be sealed and when I store my boat I always open all hatches to vent, dry out etc. Plenty of air space and air flow. Basically think of a hatch that opens up to the inside of your hull. The area that I show in the picture is from the from of the boat where the anchor hatch is all the way to the center of the console. Does not seem like that on the pic but I am guessing about 12' or so. Lots of wasted space. The new skeeters have a wet storage in this area as well.


Sounds like you've got it figured out!


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

I would not go that far yet. Idea May still blow up on me.


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

Just got home, pulled batteries out and trays and boat is at the glass shop. Once you see Mercedes glass work you will see top notch crafting. The wiring team that skeeter used in 2007 was horrible, not by functionality, but by esthetics. Embarrassing to say the least, but that will be cleaned up and look kick butt! Still trying to either trade or sell my hds 5 for a 7 to put in place of the Yamaha instruments on the dash, then stereo gets finished and center console cleaned up. Lots of work ahead, but will gain two big storage compartments and get a better ride and balanced boat once all said and done. 





















On the bulkhead that you can see in the previous post, there will be a built in 5 battery tray under the floor that will be accessed by the new hatch that will match the factory hatches all the way down to the hardware. All 5 batteries will be moved exactly 3 feet forward from previous position and 2 ft down in to the hull. Not only will it all be out of the way, but will now have an additional 5'x4' of storage space. It will be wet, but perfect for cast nets, buckets, kids tube, etc. Mercedes thinks it should take about 3 days. Will keep everyone posted on progress.


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## DJ77360 (Jun 10, 2012)

I am very curious to see the work your man does. I may have a job for him myself.
Good luck with your upgrade.


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## fattyflattie (May 20, 2008)

That's a cool project. Wanting to move mine to the stern as I have 4 big bluetops under the console and figure it would help with bow lift. Very anxious to see how this turns out.


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## ReelWork (May 21, 2004)

That's a rats nest there. Can't wait to see the end product.


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## ATX 4x4 (Jun 25, 2011)

I'm anxious to see it as well. Curious to know what it is going to cost because I have so much unused potential storage space between the front livewell and the front casting deck. I swear that LOR trip is going to send me into finacial ruin.


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## 2400tman (Jul 31, 2011)

Looks n sounds awesome.. !


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

Well little bit of a hiccup. Forgot how shallow this boat is There was no way to measure deck height from bottom without cutting a access hole. My plan was to do a row of 3 batteries, them 2 in front. By the stringers once you glass the board in to the boat, the Optimas are one inch to high. I estimated at least 12 " at the lowest part from the hull to the floor but it is only 9,5". Well after taking a look we decided to put them on the centerline.


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## capfab (May 21, 2010)

Another "step" to the deck would not hurt anything YS. Have him build it up to a slightly raised hatch. Shoud also solve some of the potential water issues.


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

We thought about that as well but really limited in budget and with the boat so shallow neither Mercedes or myself could justify the cost/vs what we would gain. If the stringers where another foot apart where we could fit all 5 then that would work and justify the expense. I will say I am very happy I did not go with the self made hole and plastic hatch ( would of not ended up to well with the lack of room ), as well as know I know why skeeter does not put the 5 gallon bucket liner in the 22 bay tunnel in that hatch, It won't fit. All of the other skeeters have at least 8-12" more height between hull and deck


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

Pulled out my min kotta charger that has been in the boat for 5 years and did not notice there was a small leak where salt water was dripping on top of it from the live-well. Got to clean it up but still works like a charm.


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## KEMPOC (Aug 24, 2010)

capfab said:


> Another "step" to the deck would not hurt anything YS. Have him build it up to a slightly raised hatch. Shoud also solve some of the potential water issues.


A great idea! Maybe a 1/2 step up to the deck?


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## KEMPOC (Aug 24, 2010)

yellowskeeter said:


> We thought about that as well but really limited in budget and with the boat so shallow neither Mercedes or myself could justify the cost/vs what we would gain. If the stringers where another foot apart where we could fit all 5 then that would work and justify the expense. I will say I am very happy I did not go with the self made hole and plastic hatch ( would of not ended up to well with the lack of room ), as well as know I know why skeeter does not put the 5 gallon bucket liner in the 22 bay tunnel in that hatch, It won't fit. All of the other skeeters have at least 8-12" more height between hull and deck


Whoops. Didnt see this before I posted.


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## capfab (May 21, 2010)

Budget, smudget!!:biggrin:

Please don't tell Lynda that boats are included in the budget. That would blow my entire "plan"!


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

Secret is safe here!

On the charger, may look beat up on the outside, but spotless on the inside.


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## capfab (May 21, 2010)

Are you having the fiberglass guy cut your speaker openings also YS? If not, might consider it!!


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## 2400tman (Jul 31, 2011)

Save your money. We can cut speaker holes. How r u fastening barrery trays


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## 2400tman (Jul 31, 2011)

Oooops. Battery trays


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## capfab (May 21, 2010)

2400tman said:


> Oooops. Battery trays


Great question!! How are they fastening?


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

3/4" marine ply wood that will be fiberglassed all around, then that will be glassed in on the floor.


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

Trays will be secured to that using screws and 3m 5200 and have 1/2" space between each.


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## ReelWork (May 21, 2004)

HEck, even putting 3 batteries in the hull will shift a lot of weight forward and you could still keep 2 batteries side by side i nthe console. Jsut a thought and sure you've probably considered that option already.


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

yeah looked at that as well but staying with original plan to clean up the console and use whatever space is left for dry storage. Got to securely fit Team Yellowskeetrs better half's Louis Vuitton bag so it does not get wet!


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## ReelWork (May 21, 2004)

Oh, I thought that was your Louis Vuitton bag..


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## 2400tman (Jul 31, 2011)

Awesome! Man that is goin to be NICE!


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## capfab (May 21, 2010)

ReelWork said:


> Oh, I thought that was your Louis Vuitton bag..


Nice!!!
LMAO!!


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

10 min worth of work, a little paint and......


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## ATX 4x4 (Jun 25, 2011)

......and a brand new charger! I bet with the new paint job it'll charge 15% faster....at least.

Looks much better.


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## battleredtexan (May 6, 2012)

ReelWork said:


> HEck, even putting 3 batteries in the hull will shift a lot of weight forward and you could still keep 2 batteries side by side i nthe console. Jsut a thought and sure you've probably considered that option already.


I believe that's how Yellowfin does it.....


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## ReelWork (May 21, 2004)

YS - How is the project coming along?


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

Should be ready Saturday. They have the hatch lid completed and will be spraying gelcoat tomorrow. Wanted to run by there today but no go. To much work.


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

Now as I am planning on the wiring and how I am going to do everyhting, found this interesting feature on the Blue Sea battery switch and ACR "Add a battery" combo that I have and it is pretty sweet. Basically by having this, you can charge both house batteries using only one bank of a built in charger. I knew the alternator worked that way, but did not know you could do that with the charger:

For example, consider a typical marine electrical system with two battery banks, a battery charger with one output, and an alternator. To charge both battery banks from your single output charger, connect the ACR between the battery banks. Connect the alternator to charge battery 1 (start battery), and connect the charger to charge battery 2 (house battery). When the charger is charging battery 2, the ACR will combine battery 2 and battery 1 for charging. When the alternator is charging battery 1, the ACR will connect battery 1 and battery 2, and both batteries will be charged. With the installation of the ACR, when at dock and plugged into shore power, the charger is supplying a charge to both battery banks; when the engine is running, the alternator is charging both battery banks.
Similarly, if you are adding an auxiliary battery to power a windlass, you can connect the auxiliary battery through an ACR to a battery bank that is attached to a charger. In this way, you are able to charge an additional battery bank without upgrading the charger to one with multiple outputs.
The ACR automatically connects batteries during the charging cycle and disconnects them under discharge.


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## DJ77360 (Jun 10, 2012)

Yeah, right......I knew that. NOT!


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## ChampT22 (Mar 7, 2011)

A friend of mine was removing his Perko Battery Switch, I do not know how he did it (I was not there), but he burned up his motor wiring harness($800) and maybe his control modular. Be careful.


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

Perko switches are not designed like the blue seas "add a battery" system that consists of not only a 4pole switch, but also a control module that goes with it as in the picture above. I could see how that could happen on a Perko, got to be carefully for sure. Thanks for the heads up!


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

Boat will be ready Monday ! Can't wait!


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## DJ77360 (Jun 10, 2012)

I think I may be almost excited as you are. I can hardly wait to see it.


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## ChampT22 (Mar 7, 2011)

A little more info, he thought he had everything hooked up right, wire harness did not burn up, until he turned his key on. His total bill was $1,600


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

Man that is a bill for sure! Sorry to hear that.


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

Couple teasers from Friday . To much work and could not pick it up today but you can see the glassed in floor and the initial structural lip of the hatch. Floor is stout. Everything will be sanded and white gelcoated as well. Hope I can get away tomorrow and go get it.


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

Another sneak peek


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## capfab (May 21, 2010)

Oh come on!!!


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## ATX 4x4 (Jun 25, 2011)

capfab said:


> Oh come on!!!


^^^^this


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

Don't feel bad i am in the same boat !


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

Still needs to be cleaned up and took the pic quickly before I closed the hatch completely but you get the just. Will have better pics tomorrow and start showing the layout with battery trays etc.... Decided to make the lid solid just in case a heavier load like a big yetti or something like that is used.


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## ReelWork (May 21, 2004)

That's looking good amigo. Think you're really going to like that setup.


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## capfab (May 21, 2010)

Super nice!! Are you simply lag bolting the battery trays to the glassed in wood? Looks like he did a great job on the hatch and the gel coat matching.


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

Yes that is my plan as well as lay down a little 5200. Board is fully encapsulated 3/4" marine ply.


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## 2400tman (Jul 31, 2011)

Looks good. That is goin to be nice! Now u can put the wet sounds powered sub in console!


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

No way. Going with them on the sides as planned. Center console is going to look like skeeter's yellowfin when I'm done! Bye bye rats nest!!!


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## 2400tman (Jul 31, 2011)

Sounds like a plan!


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## patwilson (Jan 13, 2006)

That turned out nice!


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

A better pic of the finished product. 







And before


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

And sort of how the 5 D31's will stuff in to the area. Just enough room to make it work and no more. I am still playing with the battery placement. 






















By the way if anyone needs fiberglass work done in Houston you may want to try Mercedez. He has over 30 yrs on fiberglass and did all the work for Jackson boat repair until he passed away. 
(832) 438-9128


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## ChampT22 (Mar 7, 2011)

Did he use the floor he cut out, to make your lid?


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## patwilson (Jan 13, 2006)

Some boat builders should take note of this idea. Great job BTW....


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

ChampT22 said:


> Did he use the floor he cut out, to make your lid?


Yes, took the foam out and filled it in, edged it and and then sanded a smooth lip on both the lid and the floor to
look closer to the factory finish. He could have molded one of the other lids and gone that way, but could not justify the extra expense and really wanted a solid lid. I can also weather strip it and seal it if I decide to as well with this design. We all three stood on it and it would not even move. It's stout.


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## ReelWork (May 21, 2004)

Looks good amigo... You got room on the sides there to even put some of those smaller/longer items like noodles or small bumpers. 

Are the perko's going in there too or back at the stern or console area?


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

Those are going in the console.


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

I have a couple ideas in my head but since I have not had the boat here and working I have not finalized on it. I am thinking about mounting everything (amps, sonic hub, structure scan and battery charger on the floor of the console using 1" spacers to keep things off the ground. Then I am thinking about putting sort of a shelf on top of that made from starboard that will have the selector battery switch flush mounted and that's about it. Leave the rest as a clean shelf. The top shelf would be easily removable by something like 4 cotter pins where complete access to the electronics would be available.


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## DJ77360 (Jun 10, 2012)

That looks like factory just as you said it would. He did a great job!

On another note....the Capera led lights I ordered came in. I hooked them up in the garage and they don't seem to be very bright. I hope I will be satisfied once installed. It will be 3 or 4 weeks before I can have everything done. I'll let you know.


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

You will like them for sure. Get a hella 50 w halogen spreader to compare and you will see the difference.


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## 2400tman (Jul 31, 2011)

Looks awesome my friend!!!!


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

TexasTFishing said:


> That looks like factory just as you said it would. He did a great job!
> 
> On another note....the Capera led lights I ordered came in. I hooked them up in the garage and they don't seem to be very bright. I hope I will be satisfied once installed. It will be 3 or 4 weeks before I can have everything done. I'll let you know.


And also uses 1/8 the power of the halogen. It takes a second to warm up as well, but when you compare you will see the difference. The Caprera 2's we talked about as well are even brighter than the standard ones.


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

2400tman said:


> Looks awesome my friend!!!!


Thanks man! Looking
Forward to Getting this done and back on the water! Got the cables in today for
the battery leads thanks to my friends at Gaffney Kroese and then the speaker wire and 5 conductor wire for the rgb led rings going on the speakers.


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## ChampT22 (Mar 7, 2011)

Just in case water were to get on your batteries, maybe put your starting battery in center console.


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

Optimas will work submerged, even in salt. Cables may not do well in the long run if they where to be submerged but I am sealing them to the lugs to prevent water ingression.


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## bearintex (Feb 7, 2006)

I may have missed it, but what did that cost you, if you don't mind me asking? I have a Hurricane Deck boat and the access to the bilge area is comical at best. I want to replace the two round access hatches in front of the motor with one rectangular hatch as large as possible.


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## C.Hern5972 (Jul 17, 2009)

very nice. I had a floor locker in the pure bay and that was my plan. 

Very nice job.


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

bearintex said:


> I may have missed it, but what did that cost you, if you don't mind me asking? I have a Hurricane Deck boat and the access to the bilge area is comical at best. I want to replace the two round access hatches in front of the motor with one rectangular hatch as large as possible.


Call Mercedez at (832) 438-9128 and he can get you the estimate on what you are looking at to do as each boat will be different.


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## Kenner21 (Aug 25, 2005)

Came out very nice Kenny!


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## That Robbie Guy (Aug 11, 2009)

Dang - that's some fine work!


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## ATX 4x4 (Jun 25, 2011)

*Looks great, bud.*

Dude, the latch looks like it is mount opposite of your other latches....I'd demand a refund.

:an4:


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

ATX 4x4 said:


> Dude, the latch looks like it is mount opposite of your other latches....I'd demand a refund.
> 
> :an4:


Yes, that and it is not counter sunk either. Had the option to do it but for the cost, decided on it the way it is.


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

Batteries have been ran and cabling started today. Trolling motor will be easy to do, and will be running 2 awg marine type P cables from the hatch area through the opening on the right that you can see in the original pictures and then up through the console. Will be running both 12 and 24v to console for my led lights. Trolling motor on 36v. Should have it all buttoned up early next week. I did talk to Mercedez today and he appreciates any work that anyone needs on their boats. He is located in Pasadena and his mobile is 
(832) 438-9128
108 Leora West
Padadena‎ TX
Small shop but he lives across the street so all good.


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

And the result. A clean center console!


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## RedXCross (Aug 7, 2005)

Let me be cynical a minute, I confess I have not read all the posts yet far so throw me a bone. Is the AWESOME job you have done in the front of the console with all batteries inside? Just asking, and if so have you ran it yet in a chop with a regular crew aboard. 

Seems to me she would be a bit front heavy in a chop. it is a nice job no doubt and you should be proud, I am. but I also have seen the downside of battery placements in MANY rigs trust me on that one! all that really matters is if you are happy with it.

Brad


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

Brad
Man those all are very valid and good points. I believe that on my boat it is rear heavy. When sitting in the water after adding the 4 stroke , 10' power pole , ladder and all, water comes in the scuppers and it never did before. Now for the ride, I have not been able to test it out yet, but I will say that before I did this I ran the boat to test the weight with a 100 qt yeti tundra ( I believe that was the size) in front of my console in the same place where the batteries are at and added 2 cases of beer, 3 12 packs of coke, probably 12 red bulls, and if I recall correctly a case of water topped of with ice all the drinks for a weekend for the family. Now I do not know how much that weighed but I would guess more than the batteries I have now and the boat ran exactly the same if not better. At top speed it was much more stable and ate the chop from lake
Conroe with ease. As soon as I can get this thing done I will give a truthful review as well as post numbers on how it runs after these mods.


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

The other way I think about it is that on my boat I see no running performance difference at all if I have two adults move from the rear to the front in any way other than side to side. Boat seems to run about the same. I did measure the balance point of where the water breaks before I did this mod and will compare once done. I doubt it will change.


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## ATX 4x4 (Jun 25, 2011)

Wow, bro, way better. Good use of hard work I believe.


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