# Ultrasonic Bearing Cleaning Pointers Needed



## Kitchen Pass (Apr 4, 2011)

Getting more into cleaning my reels to a better level. Bought a UC machine at HF today and spent consderable time reading previous threads on the tricks of the trade. Also noting those who seem to be the "masters" at the subject. For those I have a few questions:

Shot Glass with Acetone: I viewed the picture. Are the bearings in the lower shot glass with acetone and the second shot glass placed side with the tape on the exterior to form a compression seal? And how high is the water or cleaning solution up to the shot glasses around them? I am still puzzled by the proper set up and I am going to try this method - I want to get it right.

Do you UC all the internal parts? Which can get damaged? What do you not put in there?

How many minutes do you run the machine? Does the process get really hot? I ran some short cycle on jewelry and the water was not very hot - even with the heat on.

I understand the purpose for the CLR with the brass parts, can the others be run with a solution of water to degreaser (Simple Green, etc.)?

How do you contain the small pieces in the UC machine? Dump the in and fish out or do you put them in a container of some sort?

Can the plastic pieces run through the UC machine?

What part of UC can be dangerous to the reel? Why? What happens duriong the process? Sorry for dumb questions - I am new to the technology, humor me.

I welcome all input. In particluar with using the UC machine. I can figure a lot more out from the posts I have read through in numerous areas. I am not as serious a many of you but I guess you have to start somewhere.


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## skeeterdude (Aug 10, 2012)

Howdy Kitchen Pass!! I am new to the U.S. cleaners as well and it seems I have the exact same model you have. Here is what I do that that seems to work for me. I run app. 50/50 water, s.g. and mentioned it on here and no one corrected me and it seems to work pretty good. It seems you have to run a few 480 second cycles before that solution starts getting fairly hot. On very greasy/dirty stuff, you will need to anyway. Prior to owning this, I was cleaning the bearings in lighter fluid, spin while submerged, spin/blow dry, repeat until satisfied they are clean, oil and install. Then, I was doing the same thing to my calcutta ct 400 bearings and decided to add the process of u.s. to the mix. I had a fresh clean mixture in the tank and made a little "deelybob" out of stainless steel wire to suspend them in the tank so I could observe. I thought they were clean going in, but you should have seen the cloud of "yuk" that came boiling out! Then, I rinsed/spun them under the faucet til I was sure they were rinsed all the way, and spun them dry while holding an old hair dryer on them at the same time. If you go this route, you must oil them right away, as they will "flash" rust muay pronto. I chose to oil them while they were still warm, as someone else on here recommended that and it made sense. I have had no problems as of yet with any plastic parts from my curados, but on the calcutta, (anodized aluminum) I lost some of the decals. I will also note that the bearings I did in u.s. spun much better dry than all the curados bearings that I did. I hope this helps and doesn't add to the confusion. Skeeterdude.


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## skeeterdude (Aug 10, 2012)

Forgot to mention that I use one of those small collanders/tea strainer to hold my small parts. Also, I reached in there while it was running to see how things were progressing and the u.s. waves went right to my ear drums! I almost went through the roof! The type of strainer I use is about 3 1/2 inches or so in diameter and the mesh is stainless steel. Also on that note, I put a strainer made of the same type of mesh in the sink where I rinse, and it has saved many small parts for me. Good luck sir. Skeeterdude.


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## Dipsay (Apr 28, 2006)

Kitchen Pass said:


> Getting more into cleaning my reels to a better level. Bought a UC machine at HF today and spent consderable time reading previous threads on the tricks of the trade. Also noting those who seem to be the "masters" at the subject. For those I have a few questions:
> 
> Shot Glass with Acetone: I viewed the picture. Are the bearings in the lower shot glass with acetone and the second shot glass placed side with the tape on the exterior to form a compression seal? And how high is the water or cleaning solution up to the shot glasses around them? I am still puzzled by the proper set up and I am going to try this method - I want to get it right.
> 
> ...


Shot glass and acetone bout mid way up glass for acetone and US Solution equal.. Your good on the understanding of the set up.

I personally dont use a US for cleaning the internals of the reel. Kinda my choice. Unless I cant get a reel open due to corrosion or whatever, then I drop it in. But generally I clean each piece by hand. US cleaners are nice but they cant get all the junk off like a good ol spray bottle and nylon brush.

You do have to be careful of putting certain parts in there. Decals can come off, brass brake hubs can come unglued, etc.

There are too many little things that can go wrong during the cleaning process depending on what reel you are working on. DONT EVER GET CLR ON AN MG REEL!!!!!! IE; 50MG, CH1000MG, Core. Will eat away the frame. It is an acid.. hope this helps..Dip


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## skeeterdude (Aug 10, 2012)

Whoa!!! Did not know that about the brass brake ring!!! Fortunately I have been removing mine first and doin the polishing while i'm waiting. Thanks for that tip sir! Skeeterdude.:dance:


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## Kitchen Pass (Apr 4, 2011)

Thanks guys for the help. I did a 200E7 and 50E last night and was very impressed with how well they came out using the ultrasound cleaner.

I cleaned the majority of the parts in a solution of water and Zep car wash soap. It degreases pretty well and is not very caustic to paint or sensitve metals. Mild but effective. I did CLR the main brass gear and it cleaned it very well.

The acetone I had was not clear (used) so I used a paint brush cleaner. Not as strong as acetone and much slower evaporation rate when drying but it worked. I was impressive to watch all the **** puke out of the bearing near the lever wind. I think acetone would be best.

I did not have shot glasses small enought to fit in the UC machine so I placed the bearings, and other parts in small pyrex bowls uncovered, seemed to work OK. That method allowed the machine to work on bearings in one bowl with one solution and other parts in another with the Zep solution.

I have never disassembled a Curado down that far, there sure are a lot of little pieces! I was impressed that I could put them back together once they were cleaned.

Next step is to get better reel lubricants. I need to get a good grease. I used the Corrosion X red to lube everything else. From what I have seen here "less is more" when it comes to lube a clean reel.

I am a student of the game at this point. Thanks for the help.


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## Drundel (Feb 6, 2006)

Looks like I have something new to add to my x-mas list, that US cleaner looks sweet. I sorta wish they had a smaller heated one just for the bearings in a shot glass, but oh well.

I'm pretty sure this will horrify y'all, but I've been cleaning my bearings (stock shielded Shimano in Curdao and Chronarch 101) in a small amount of rubbing alcohol, rinsing and spinning, repeat. Then a single drop of Hot Sauce.

When you guys clean stock ones in the US, do you take off the shields?


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## Dipsay (Apr 28, 2006)

Nope..No need. FLushes right out..


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## Aggelos (Mar 1, 2012)

im not 100% sure but isnt the mixture of 50/50 water/degreaser on the UC remove the paint of Anodized aluminium parts such as spools?


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## Dipsay (Apr 28, 2006)

I havent had an issue in that reguard. And I have a mix of clr and simple green in there. Have had to let reels sit in it for as much as a couple of days before it would unlock. No issues with it.


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## skeeterdude (Aug 10, 2012)

I have been using straight simple green in large quantities for years restoring/cleaning old tools and things for years and sometimes the stuff is so "grungy" that you have to soak for days. It (simple green) will remove paint from metal surfaces and will look like you put Jasco Paint Stripper on it. You will be diluting it for use in the U.S. so it won't be as strong nor will the duration be as long. But, it did remove some of the decals from my Calcutta's anodized body. I don't put my spools in there. Skeeterdude.


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