# Shimano Curado CU-200B5



## Ace's High

:headknock
I took apart my first Curado on Thursday night to clean and upgrade it with ceramic bearings and carbon drag washers. After putting it back together everything seemed to work just fine. I woke up on Friday morning realizing I had missed a washer in the newspaper print that I was using as the liner on top of the table I was working on and went and retrieved it from the trash. Unfortunately I cannot remember where this washer goes, funny I could remember I didn't install it but I can't remember it's location in the reel. I am attaching a photo of the washer in hopes someone can guide me as to where I need to install it. I don't have calipers to measure the size but I have placed a dime beside it as a reference. If me memory serves me correctly it is the thinnest washer in the reel.


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## george.maness86

I believe that is a washer that goes down by the bearing on your drive shaft. There are 3 down there and Im not 100% sure which one you forgot, but I am positive that washer goes on the bottom of the crank by the bearing BNT0031.


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## george.maness86

I wanna say this is it Or BNT1289. You will have to take it apart to put it in anyways, just pay attention when you take it apart and see if either one is missing. Do you have play in the drive shaft, in and out? Make sure also when you put your drag springs in, BNT0015, that they are like this ()


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## Dipsay

Thats going to be your BNT1493 drive shaft bearing spacer. It goes on the drive shaft after the bearing. Alot of times you dont even see it if a bearing is really corroded.. Dip


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## george.maness86

OOps I said it was the wrong part # and actually highlighted the right part. You can always count on bantam or dipsay to set things strait though.


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## Ace's High

Thank you, I appreciate the information. I will go get it installed this afternoon before I lose the washer.


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## Bantam1

You will see a black spacer too. Make sure you did not lose this one in the process. You need both.


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## skeeterdude

What black spacer??? I have done 8 of these older "greenies" and have not seen any black spacer in there. Please enlighten!! Thanks, Skeeterdude.


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## Dipsay

The black spacer Bantam is refering to is on the inside of the frame next to the spool. BNT1494. It has the brass spacer BNT2961 on top of it. The BNT1494 is the same color as the frame so its easy to miss..Dip


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## Bantam1

Yep there are two spacers for the drive shaft. One is black plastic and the other is copper. The plastic is used against the frame to prevent scratches on the finish (also helps prevent corrosion).


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## skeeterdude

Okay! Scared me there for a minute. Those two are on the other side of the frame under the "E or C" clip that holds the crankshaft in!:biggrin:


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## Ace's High

Luckily I did catch that and the correct setup of them on the shaft. 
Since we are discussing the CU-200B5 is there a way to remove the Bearing on the spool without damaging the spool? I replaced both BNT194's with Boca Ceramic bearings and lubricated them with Quantum Hot Sauce Reel oil. Then I cleaned the Bearing on the spool as best as I could and lubed it as well but there seem to be something still dragging on the spool as it will only free wheel for about 7 seconds(no breaks or drag presure). Not that that is a bad thing however my Shimano Calais is freewheeling for 22 -26 seconds after doing the same thing to it and my Curado CU-200BSF is freewheeling for 14- 16 seconds as I received it from the previous owner and to my knowledge it is strictly factor set up with no changes. 
Thanks for the Input


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## Bantam1

There are special pliers out there for removing the pin. I just ground the teeth off the jaws, and took a notch out of one side. I use it to press the pin most of the way. Then I use a small pair of side cutters to grab the pin and use leverage to pry it out. 

Make sure there is no oil on the spool shaft or center of the pinion gear. This will slow the free spool way down. You should be getting well over 1 minute times with the Calais (with no brakes and a full spool of line). That is with stock bearings.


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## george.maness86

Boca bearing sells the pliers to extract and replace the pin for around $10


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## skeeterdude

I have the Hedgehog Tool from Japan. I bought this because the pliers from Boca were not available at the time I needed them. Search this site and you will find excellent tutorials and pics for both as well as pics of someones homeade pliers.Good luck! Skeeterdude.


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## rjc1982

george.maness86 said:


> Boca bearing sells the pliers to extract and replace the pin for around $10
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Here's the Boca pliers, but they are a bit more than $10.

http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing...&utm_medium=emailnews&utm_campaign=fishingNL3

I've always been able to remove those pins with a pair of Channel-loc pliers. I wrap some tape on the jaws so they don't damage the shaft and push the pin out on the edge of the plier jaw. It's works, but the Boca pliers would be much easier.


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## Ace's High

Thanks again for all if the information. I realize after Bantam1's comments that I am mistaken in having oil inside the pinion gear. That point is not a bushing it is a free clearance area and by putting the oil in there it creates friction on the spool shaft and actually slows the spool down. I am as green at servicing these reels as they are in color however I have come to love the reels as smooth as they are to operate.


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## Kitchen Pass

Ace's High said:


> Luckily I did catch that and the correct setup of them on the shaft.
> Since we are discussing the CU-200B5 is there a way to remove the Bearing on the spool without damaging the spool? *I replaced both BNT194's with Boca Ceramic bearings and lubricated them with Quantum Hot Sauce Reel* *oil*. Then I cleaned the Bearing on the spool as best as I could and lubed it as well but there seem to be something still dragging on the spool as it will only free wheel for about 7 seconds(no breaks or drag presure). Not that that is a bad thing however my Shimano Calais is freewheeling for 22 -26 seconds after doing the same thing to it and my Curado CU-200BSF is freewheeling for 14- 16 seconds as I received it from the previous owner and to my knowledge it is strictly factor set up with no changes.
> Thanks for the Input


I thought about using a similar oil on the ceramics. Larry at Boca mentioned the Hot Sauce is designed to impregnate or bond to the metal. Since ceramic is a different material the Hot Sauce could actually end up gumming up the bearings. He recommended their lightening lube for the ceramics which I am trying. Not sure if this has merit or not, curious to what other have used on ceramics.


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## george.maness86

I use Oust Met-Ol on ceramics.


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## Drundel

Kitchen Pass said:


> I thought about using a similar oil on the ceramics. Larry at Boca mentioned the Hot Sauce is designed to impregnate or bond to the metal. Since ceramic is a different material the Hot Sauce could actually end up gumming up the bearings. He recommended their lightening lube for the ceramics which I am trying. Not sure if this has merit or not, curious to what other have used on ceramics.


Hmm... that's good to know. Anyone else here had any issues with hot sauce on ceramic bearings? If so, any recommendations?


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## rjc1982

Drundel said:


> Hmm... that's good to know. Anyone else here had any issues with hot sauce on ceramic bearings? If so, any recommendations?


No, but I'll second the recommendation of Lightening Lube. Great stuff!


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## george.maness86

Sorry I was going off of my memory for the price on the pliers, I thought they weren't very much but I was wrong they are 39.95. I really don't remember them being that much when I bought them. Thanks rjc 1982


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## Dipsay

Drundel said:


> Hmm... that's good to know. Anyone else here had any issues with hot sauce on ceramic bearings? If so, any recommendations?


 Doesnt have to be the ceramic bearings brotha. I've replaced some steel bearings that had that on there. When its in liquid form it works fine, but once it bonds with that metal there is a residue that is hard to get rid of. I ran some recently through that heated acetone and it still didnt come completely free. Thats the only reason Im not a fan. I've used their lightening lube and its pretty good..Dip


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