# decking floor in aluminum



## jarrold03 (Mar 15, 2010)

About to start my rebuild on my boat. I have a 2002 alumacraft 18ft deep and wide. I ordered 2 sheets 4x10ft 1/8" im going to do the floor and sides and than cover in safe floor. Any suggestions if I should add more foam under the floor because im going to add storage to the back of the boat and have to remove some foam for adding to boxs in the area across the stern. I want to add sponsons also to help with floatation but i might see about having boatright marine do those. I have a 12 gallon fuel tank in the back and I think Im going to add another 12 and just put a T in the line because I have a tunnel hole so I can not put 1 big one inn. I'm going to attempt do do everything else myself just curious if anybody has done this before and what are some tips and tricks I should do. Not sure how i want to run my wire to the center console either maybe flatten 2" pvc under the floor? Any help guys I would appreciate. Im located in galveston county area if you know anybody around that I could talk to.


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## jarrold03 (Mar 15, 2010)

I want to change my console out also


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## ATX 4x4 (Jun 25, 2011)

Good looking boat for sure. Best of luck and don't be shy with pics when she's finished!


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## acassidy (Jun 25, 2004)

*Nice project*

That will be very nice. I would put foam under the sides and deck. And use aluminum rivets. Stainless steal will have galvanic corrosion especially in salt water environment. You could get boat dock floatation blocks and then slice them for under the deck and side. Or pour in foam. As long as it is closed cell it will work. Blocks of foam will help allow water flow under the foam verse pour in. It will quiet the ride. 
Archie


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## jarrold03 (Mar 15, 2010)

Awesome thank you I didnt know that about the foam. Will it be okay if I weld the plate inn and just drill holes in the plate were a rib is under it so i can weld through the hole for penitration to the boat? Or should I just countersink self tapping bolts? I wont be able to remove anyways do to the safe floor covering the boat.


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## acassidy (Jun 25, 2004)

*Boat floor*

I would not do self tapping screw but would weld on if you can. Maybe cut slits in the floor then weld thru the slit to the rib and the fill the slit with weld and then grind back down.

For the tunnel I would think a 2 by 4 inch wide path would probably work. You could create tunnel walls under the floor to help guide your wiring. Or maybe a removable section flush on the floor and attach with screws down to help you run cables. They're are self tapping ss screws which have a bolt head on them.

Another concern is that water never gets trapped anywhere in the bottom of the boat.

Plan a solid mounting area for the new console so that it is attached to the boat. Maybe you could out something for a backing there. To help hold the consoles screws.

For second tank. They make a three way valve that will allow you to choose a tank to pull from.

That will be a fun project and keep us updated.

Archie


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## clu35 (Sep 14, 2009)

Jus drill hols where the ribs are that will work fine that's what I did also don't weld solid use welds 2-3" long on 6" centers and when you weld the aluminum make sure you wire brush the hell out of the spots on the boat that you plan on welding other wise the wels will crack. Good luck


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## Smackdaddy53 (Nov 4, 2011)

I am using the blue sheet insulation foam from Lowes. You can get 4x8 sheets in 1/2 or 3/4" thick and double them up between the ribs under the deck to dampen noise and add lots of floatation. One square foot of air space will float 60 pounds and a square foot of closed cell foam floats a little less. Do the math on a full sheet and whatever you have left over can be subtracted from what you started with to figure floatation. 
Rivet or weld the deck to the ribs. If you rivet it down I'd go 6" on center to avoid shearing rivets. Sheet metal screws of any kind will corrode no matter what due to dissimilar metals so Id go aluminum rivets or weld it for sure.

http://www.fishingscout.com/scouts/SmackDaddy


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## EvansMarine (Jun 7, 2010)

Riveting will allow for flexing and give a little softer ride. Welding will be maint free if done correctly and proper penetration. Use large 1/4" aluminum rivets and air rivet gun. Makes quicker and easy on the muscles. I prefer rivet in case I have a issue below the deck I can drill the rivet a lot easier than grinding welds. Good luck. If you need any custom aluminum breaking, shearing, fabrication, welding, tig, or spooled feel fre to contact me at the shop.

Bryan Evans


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## TIMBOv2 (Mar 18, 2010)

I am in the process of doing mine out of 1/8" diamond plate. My boat has a big deck on front and I will be adding one on the back kinda like yours. I am not going to cover ribs on the side though.


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## jarrold03 (Mar 15, 2010)

stripping, hull is a 2002 guess it took some beat or welds just were not that good.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Nov 4, 2011)

jarrold03 said:


> stripping, hull is a 2002 guess it took some beat or welds just were not that good.


Looks like some of both!

http://www.fishingscout.com/scouts/SmackDaddy


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## txduckkilla (Jun 12, 2013)

The foam will eventually break down and be waterlogged, adding weight. Save the money you would spend on foam and just buy insurance. Adding foam to the boat will have no bearing on how shallow it floats, and there are better options for sound deadening.


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## jarrold03 (Mar 15, 2010)

more progress and got some supplies.


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## acassidy (Jun 25, 2004)

*such required level flotation on 20' or less boats*

While doing your project you should look at the us coast boat required for level flotation on your boat. Removing flotation and not adding it back and not adding it back correctly will void your insurance and make you legally responsible for damages and injuries to others.

http://www.uscgboating.org/regulations/boatbuilder_s_handbook/flotation_landing.aspx

A coast guard inspection in required on home made and factory boats of this size. Adding flotation in the floor only may make the boat turtle if swamped.

Flotation in tunnel is way better and in the decking as high as you can get will help. The uscg plate in the boat should give you the required swamped flotation weight rating.

My last three and current boat (17, 22 and now a 19 low pro) have been whalersI have restored. I love whalers because I love my family and I can pull the plugs and nothing happens. I have restored two aluminum boats a 16 and 18. I am talking 100% restore and I did pour in flotation in all open deck areas and under floor and gunnels do closed cell sheets.

I love that 18 alumacraft and it is worth a good refit.
Archie


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## Trouthappy (Jun 12, 2008)

Just don't use any copper-treated wood in an aluminum boat. Copper and aluminum don't mix...copper corrodes a hole right through it. I cut 1/2 plywood and double-paint it beige, where it isn't too dark (hot in summer) or blinding white. You don't want some big ol boy busting rivets or a weld, so the plywood spreads the weight around. It really helps the longevity of aluminum.


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## jarrold03 (Mar 15, 2010)

more work this weekend


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## Logan (Aug 7, 2009)

For your tank issue...if you can get a console with a tank in it I'd go that route. I would also look at moving your console forward about 6 in to a foot...both will help with shallow water performance. By reducing bow rise

Looking at redoing an older boat right set up the same as yours...but I'm wanting to flush deck it and raise the console


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## jarrold03 (Mar 15, 2010)

Got my courtesy lights inn. I will be mounting one on each side of the console facing out and two in the back and 2 upfront.


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## jarrold03 (Mar 15, 2010)

need to start working instead of gathering all my goodies lol


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## jarrold03 (Mar 15, 2010)

Weather has really slowed me down but im ready to fish so trying to light a fire under my ace. Just got my console back from tenniles in Texas city and man they did a hell of a job. Exactly what I wanted. Im 6'6 so I kind of had it made like a larger off shore boat setup.


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## saltwatersensations (Aug 30, 2004)

nice!


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## jarrold03 (Mar 15, 2010)

Finally was able to get some work going on. I received my new welding machine and plasma cutter saturday and got to work.


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## jarrold03 (Mar 15, 2010)

The angle aluminum on the inside is going to be a piece of plate that I mount my fuse panel and distrubution block on for remove and easy access.


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## gater (May 25, 2004)

*Boat*

Looking good, keep them pictures coming....


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## jarrold03 (Mar 15, 2010)

Did some more work last night. I had a little screw up though, The top right were the radio goes I cut a hole on the right side of the console for my horn. Well once I placed the horn in place the dang radio hits it. So now I have a 2 3/8 hole on the right side I have to figure out what to do. I was thinking I could maybe have a brace come off my burn bar to maybe cover it but not sure how that would look. Also I can not remember but I think those ears on the stearing go on the outside of the console. If so I will have to burn the hole out a little bigger, no big deal wont effect anything just doesnt seem right to have the bolts go through the front and attach to the back. I'm pretty sure those ears go on the front. Any help before I blow a bigger hole. Also just curious what do yall think about tacking those cup holders in place. They have a foam pad with double sided tape but that wont hold up. I could use and epoxy to hold them down but bot sure if I would ever need to remove them for anything. They do have drain hole in the bottom so they will not hold water. I am getting it powder coated and everything will be removed so once I reinstall the cup holders it will mess the powder coat up if I tack them down.


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## jarrold03 (Mar 15, 2010)

The opening on the left will be for storage, im going to box the inside off but need Ideas on a type of door, hinge and latch system.


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## CoastalOutfitters (Aug 20, 2004)

2 3/8" starboard cover plate with pliers holder

might see if fpmarine or ssicustomplastics has a drop in to fit

you dont have much hinge area there, alum. piano hinge and starboard or alum plate door , or smoked lexan, 1 small key lock latch.


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## jarrold03 (Mar 15, 2010)

Dang that ssicustomplastics has some good stuff I wish I would of none of them sooner lol


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## jeff.w (Jan 22, 2006)

If that's a manual rotary helm, consider going ahead and slapping in a NFB helm while you got it out.


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## jarrold03 (Mar 15, 2010)

What is the difference in the 2, I have no clue. Mine has a cable that winds up in that box which ever type that is.


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## angler_25 (Oct 30, 2007)

Where did you order the lights from?


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## gater (May 25, 2004)

*Steering*



jeff.w said:


> If that's a manual rotary helm, consider going ahead and slapping in a NFB helm while you got it out.


X2, agree with Jeff! Since you are doing all that nice work replace that steering.


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## FISHINFOOL87 (Jun 21, 2010)

Looking good...


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## jeff.w (Jan 22, 2006)

jarrold03 said:


> What is the difference in the 2, I have no clue. Mine has a cable that winds up in that box which ever type that is.


A no feedback helm will eliminate the torque steer. In other words, you can let go of the steering wheel at cruising speed and the boat will stay on path and won't pull to the right. It will also keep the motor from slinging left or right while the boat is being trailered. You can find them on eBay for about $100-$125 or so. Well worth it, if you have any of these problems.


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## cva34 (Dec 22, 2008)

EvansMarine said:


> Riveting will allow for flexing and give a little softer ride. Welding will be maint free if done correctly and proper penetration. Use large 1/4" aluminum rivets and air rivet gun. Makes quicker and easy on the muscles. I prefer rivet in case I have a issue below the deck I can drill the rivet a lot easier than grinding welds. Good luck. If you need any custom aluminum breaking, shearing, fabrication, welding, tig, or spooled feel fre to contact me at the shop.
> 
> Bryan Evans


Thats a X-2 for me


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## jarrold03 (Mar 15, 2010)

I ordered the lights from ebay I think they were @6 dollars each. I will look into the steering and check it out. I use and transom saver when towing and when its parked. Dont really remember any issue with it pulling while driving but if yall say its worth it might as well do it. Thanks for the heads up on that


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## jarrold03 (Mar 15, 2010)

Need to order a new prop and suggestions on what and where to buy. Its a 1982 evinrude 90hp


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## jarrold03 (Mar 15, 2010)

Got a little more work done with all the wires routed and some of the floor and sides installed and the back cut out for my livewell and dry storage boxs. On to the next big project of building the boxs should be fun.


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## jarrold03 (Mar 15, 2010)

heres a few pics


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## JFolm (Apr 22, 2012)

Any more updates? Is the plan for the deck to drain under the bench?


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## jarrold03 (Mar 15, 2010)

It was already cut like that because of the tunnel hull but it works out perfect for drain run off and to pull my wires up from the rear. Ive ran into some issues with modify things on my console so I have really been trying to knock that out. I need to get in gear but it seems like I have something going on every weekend lol.


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## jarrold03 (Mar 15, 2010)

*more work*

Got the floor almost done. I am waiting on one more piece of metal to get press broke to cover my wires running up to my console from the back before I can lay the last piece inn.


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## jarrold03 (Mar 15, 2010)

*light installed*

Got my light on


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## jarrold03 (Mar 15, 2010)

*more work*

I got my console and leaning post back from paint. I got part of my seats for the leaning post back still waiting on bottom piece. I tried knocking some stuff out last night before the storm.


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## jarrold03 (Mar 15, 2010)

*more work*

ran into a small problem but I can fix it. Need to cut the floor and move throttle cables closer to console. I ve got everything wired up, going to do a little bit of cleaning the wiring and zip tying it better but almost ready for water.


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## GeeTee (Aug 8, 2014)

Wow that looks great!


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## justletmein (Feb 11, 2006)

Looks great. What'd you stick the floor down with?


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## dlbpjb (Oct 9, 2009)

Great Job, interested in the floor myself.


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## jarrold03 (Mar 15, 2010)

*Almost done with console*

Had to move my throttle cables over and got the glove compartment closed up. I put a piece of the flooring on the door to kind of break up the plain paint but not sure if im crazy about it


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## jarrold03 (Mar 15, 2010)

The flooring has a 3M backing on it and it is very sticky. I had to remove a piece on the floor to scoot my throttle cables over and it was a pain trying to get it all up. I cut a 1" wide by 4" long strip and it was not easy so I would say im not real worried about the flooring coming up. I ordered it from gatortraxboats.com because they offer it in that camo pattern. The flooring is called hydro turf you can find it and other patterns direct from hydro turf but like I stated they didnt offer the camo there.


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## justletmein (Feb 11, 2006)

Thx for the heads up on the 3m backing. I glued some closed cell foam on mine with 3m spray glue but I'm worried about it coming up. Time will tell. 

Love that console that thing looks great.


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## jarrold03 (Mar 15, 2010)

*Some more work*

Waiting on thread inserts to arrive in the mail so I can mount my seats. Installed a piece of channel to cover my wires than realized my ice chest wont sit flat so added a piece of channel to each side to help out.


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## jarrold03 (Mar 15, 2010)

*almost*

Thread inserts didnt come in till saturday so I just zip tied the the seats on to get it in the water but really liking the way it turned out. Hopefully I will have them on fastened down today


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## GeeTee (Aug 8, 2014)

Looks great!!!


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## Delesandwich (Dec 30, 2008)

Looks good JDubb, bring that sucked down south for a weekend!


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## Delesandwich (Dec 30, 2008)

Sucker*


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## justletmein (Feb 11, 2006)

Wow, that looks great!


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## jarrold03 (Mar 15, 2010)

*This Helped*

These were a life saver. I was trying to figure out a way to fasten my seats since I didnt install bolts before having them wrapped. These thread inserts worked out great. Just a good idea when your ineed of threads.


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