# b&w and dof



## Koru (Sep 25, 2006)

tried some black and white this morning and then wondered, was there any point to taking black and white photos during the golden hour. the colour shots i took certainly came up with a lot of warmth (more than i wanted in this instance).

i drove past this place the other day and noticed somebody had had the nerve to start cleaning it up. i'm not ready for it to be clean and tidy and all new! lol



























and these are a couple of closeups i was trying yesterday. i'm still figuring out how to get the clarity in the closeups to work right, i'll get there i'm sure. but it has been quite frustrating to take what seems to be a very clear photo in the LCD viewer only to discover blurryness when i open the photos up on the computer. i can't figure out why the difference there.



















i think i've got it right with the plant (i wanted the yellow fruit in focus), but wrong with the cicada (i think i got the leaf and not the insect).

more to learn


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## Gator_Nutz (Sep 27, 2006)

Are you handholding these close-up shots? I have found that the tripod is a neccessity for me. Even with a VR lens my hands are not steady enough for close-ups and shallow depth of field. At least not consistently. You may get lucky every now and then. And turn the VR off when using the tripod. Get a wireless remote or a cable release and use mirror up function if you can. Those are all things that will help get sharper images. I'm liking what I am seeing so far Karen. I knew I would. Did you have your camera set to B&W for these images or did you convert from color? Good work.


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## Koru (Sep 25, 2006)

i took a few of the building in colour mode on the camera and then choose a specific sharp black and white setting on the camera. i think i'd like to take some more photos using a softer black and white setting. 

i've been thinking a little bit about it (hindsight is fun) and think that i have to be able to choose the mood of the image and make it fit the right setting on the camera.

see... the house has this green plant growing all over it, softening the edges of the building, so that second image might have been better off under a softer setting.

gotta work at getting the 'whole package ambience' together... if i get the ambience right then bingo the verse will flow (not that it isn't now lol)

do i sound mixed up? 

you're right about the close-up and handholding the camera. i can't do it either. my hands and body don't stay steady. a limitation discovered fairly early.


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## MT Stringer (May 21, 2004)

Karen, are you using manual focus for your close up pictures? If not, you might want to try that. Switch your lens frpm AF to MF and give it a shot on the flowers. That and a tripod should help.

Just think, one of these days you will realize that you are shooting that fancy camera in manual - shutter speed, aperature, flash, etc. A lot of folks just don't realize what some photographers are doing.

Mike


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## Gator_Nutz (Sep 27, 2006)

By the way...Nikon has the ML-L3 infrared transmitter (remote shutter release) that works great on my D40. It will work equally as well with your D80 and it only costs about $17


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## Koru (Sep 25, 2006)

it was bad enough buying the camera, now i've gotta hunt for a tripod. okay, make it easy on me, what do i need to look for in a tripod? i want to be able to carry it easily, without hassle into every situation you can think of (i have a lot of ideas for close up photos apparently lol)

an aside...
one of the things i had to be very careful of was not to buy a 'parallel import' when i bought the d80. here in NZ there seems to be plenty of high brand products i.e. i could have bought my camera here for about $500 less than the standard retail price here if i had purchased the parallel import product.

a shop assistant here told me that companies overseas buy in used and broken cameras, take them apart and put pieces of different cameras back together and sell them cheap. (i found one such place in SF, incidentally)

i was just looking for the infrared transmitter you mentioned James and found this:
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Electronics-photography/Camera-accessories/Cables/auction-134987569.htm

found a real one here:
http://www.zillion.co.nz/listing/4590600/ for US$29.25 (exchange rates are great aren't they?  )


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## Koru (Sep 25, 2006)

MT Stringer said:


> Karen, are you using manual focus for your close up pictures? If not, you might want to try that. Switch your lens frpm AF to MF and give it a shot on the flowers. That and a tripod should help.
> 
> Just think, one of these days you will realize that you are shooting that fancy camera in manual - shutter speed, aperature, flash, etc. A lot of folks just don't realize what some photographers are doing.
> 
> Mike


thanks for the hint Mike, i'll try a few out in manual and see how i go.

i always thought it would take me six months to figure out how this camera would work. i think i'm on par with that so far. 

i guess it's not until you realise what all the features do that you realise the work some photographers put into their photography. (by the way, i never thought you just pointed and shooted with yours  ) well, with hanging around here it didn't take me long to realise that at least.


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## richg99 (Aug 21, 2004)

Just a suggestion to help focus your close-ups... Whether you have a mono or tri pod...or even if you hand hold ( which I don't recommend)...LEANING is a good way to get your final focus. Instead of changing the lens itself when you get very close to what you want...LEAN....forward or backward... regards, Rich


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## Koru (Sep 25, 2006)

okay, practising again... middle of the day with lots of wind and yes Rich, lots of leaning!  




















































...


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## Koru (Sep 25, 2006)

i figured if i can do a cobweb like that then i'm improving.


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## RustyBrown (May 29, 2004)

Karen,

Keep firing away...

I'd like to address your question about B&W and the Golden Hour. If I understand you question correctly it's really "if I'm shooting B&W are there advantages to shooting in the golden hour".

It really depends on how you want to shoot the subject. By shooting buildings like these late or early in the day when the sun is low in the sky the sides of the building are much more evenly illuminated than they are during the day. In addition, the eaves above the window at midday would cast long shadows down across the windows so the angle of the light has something to do with it.

If you think back through some of my stuff you'll recall I usually shoot an hour before the sun rises and an hour after sunset. The advantage to this is that it removes harsh shadows. Is it a flatter light? Absolutely, but the dynamic range is nowhere near objects illuminated by direct light - even during the Golden Hour. This is a concept Erik Stensland turned me on to.

So to sum it up the Golden Hour or "my" Magic Hour" are about more than color, it also has to do with the harshness and angle of lighting. Hope I answered your question.


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## sandybottom (Jun 1, 2005)

Thanks, Rusty I think I just learned something from you again. Your right most of my photos taken at sunset are the best as long as they don't have too much warmth. Another words as long as the picture is not too orange. As far as the morning goes well I sleep through it most of the time. I'm a 7:28am waker upper. Yep that's right its like ground hog day everyday I wake up at the same time everytime.

Kathy your pictures to me are very good. Yes, your right the web turned out great. I bet your having fun learning this awesome camera. Nikon D80 rules!


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## RustyBrown (May 29, 2004)

Just for you this morning Karen. Here's an example of the flat light I was talking about. This was take about 1/2 hour before sunrise this morning. Obviously it's a long exposure due to the headlight trails, but note the distinctive lack of shadows and that everything more or less benefits from one exposure. This is untouched except for sizing and the plate blur.


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## fishphoto (Mar 3, 2005)

What else did you see this morning Rusty???


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## Koru (Sep 25, 2006)

i went back and tried some different settings.


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## Koru (Sep 25, 2006)

a few more




























i must find out the history of this place. it is quite old (for here) and is near where the original post office and telephone exchange used to be (in the days of party lines and crank handle telephones).


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## Koru (Sep 25, 2006)

RustyBrown said:


> Just for you this morning Karen. Here's an example of the flat light I was talking about. This was take about 1/2 hour before sunrise this morning. Obviously it's a long exposure due to the headlight trails, but note the distinctive lack of shadows and that everything more or less benefits from one exposure. This is untouched except for sizing and the plate blur.


firstly, thanks for the explanation about the golden hour, i understand what you mean and it is illustrated well with this photo.

i am partial to shadows, so i can see i have much playing around to do on that aspect alone.

i don't have a tripod as yet so will have to wait for the long term exposure images (now that i've said that i'll likely turn around and take some anyway lol ).

i had a good time this morning playing with some of the settings on my camera. i didn't take very many photos, but with the different settings at similar angles, i found a lot of difference and a lot of preferences. it wasn't really until i could see the photos on my computer that the differences were easy to spot (in many instances). i have to do something about reading glasses i think which will be a pain as i already wear glasses for anything beyond my elbow.

i wonder if anyone knows if it's better to have bifocals with camera use...

i love the photo of the steps, it came out really well.

it seems the more i look at this place, the more potential for photographs there is. it's similar to writing in that respect - get past the cliches for the nuggets of gold. 

Sandy, i am having great fun!  now get out of bed and take some photos... morning is the bestest time of day and you're missing it! lol


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## richg99 (Aug 21, 2004)

K a couple of things...some cameras have a setting dial that allows glass-es wearers to make adjustments so that they can see through the viewfinder better..much like binoculars do.

If you do not have a remote....you may be able to set up your timed delay shot device (99% of cameras have them) and let it click the shutter for you. That process is far more stable and less shaky than squeezing the shutter button. I occasionally use it on my Canon S3is since that camera doesn't have even the option of a remote cable. regards, rich


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## Koru (Sep 25, 2006)

richg99 said:


> K a couple of things...some cameras have a setting dial that allows glass-es wearers to make adjustments so that they can see through the viewfinder better..much like binoculars do.
> 
> If you do not have a remote....you may be able to set up your timed delay shot device (99% of cameras have them) and let it click the shutter for you. That process is far more stable and less shaky than squeezing the shutter button. I occasionally use it on my Canon S3is since that camera doesn't have even the option of a remote cable. regards, rich


Rich, i can see through the viewfinder, it's just afterwards that i'm blind as a bat in my left eye which i close while my right eye is looking through the viewfinder. i'll have a look and see if there are any adjustments i can make though, thanks for the idea.

and the timed delay button is also a good idea. i've not had a chance to use that yet.

thank you!

rosesm


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## Gator_Nutz (Sep 27, 2006)

I wear bifocals when shooting. My viewfinder, and yours too I believe has an adjustment wheel or switch on it that you can adjust for more magnification. Dioptor or something? It really helps for me anyway.


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## Koru (Sep 25, 2006)

oh you mean that little screwy thing beside the viewfinder?  darn, bear with me okay, i'll learn this stuff yet. lol 

rosesm


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## richg99 (Aug 21, 2004)

K..If you can learn to keep BOTH eyes open when shooting...you will find that you can take pictures of moving objects and other things far better. It is the very best way to capture basketball and soccer and other sports. You watch (through the open and blurry eye) the players moving into and out of the scene. Rich


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## Gator_Nutz (Sep 27, 2006)

Also if you learn to breathe through your eyelids it will help keep still and eliminate blur.


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## Koru (Sep 25, 2006)

Really Rich? wow i never thought to take photos with both eyes open. maybe that's what's been wrong all along. okay i'll give it a go, thanks. 

James, should i be standing on one foot whilst i do that?  i can you know. 

rosesm


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