# Making Eva Foam Grips fit on the blank



## [email protected]

I am having some trouble getting my new eva foam grips that match my fuji sk2 reel seat to fit my blank. I have the cheap mud hole tackle sand paper grit reamers and instead of reaming out the foam it is just stripping the grit off the reamer. NO matter how much pressure I put on the foam grip it won't slide down the rod past halfway and I need to ream it out one way or the other. What are my options? I have considered taking a drill bit in my drill and doing it that way since that is the only way I can think of to make it ream out further. At this point I really don't want to buy the more expensive reamers and I need to get this rod started soon. Any thoughts or opinions will help thanks.


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## Swampland

James, I made pro style reamers for Mudhole for about 5 years and quit making them when they started having their reamers in China. These aren't the cheap reamers with the grit flakes glued on. The ones I have are 1/2'' heavy duty grit tape spiral down the length of the reamer blank. They used to retail for 19.95. I still have four sizes available, small, med and large along with an extra large for offshore grips. The cost is only 12.00 each. Please give me a call if I can help you out with them. These reamers will last you a very long time.


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## johnmyjohn

I've used a lot of foam grips and never had to reem any of them out. If they are a tight fit just use soapy water on the blank and slide the foam on down where you want it. I've put the grips in hot water before to make them more flexible before sliding them on too. Just slide the foam down as far as it will fall and put the butt on the floor and finish sliding the foam down where you want it, don't stop the slide till the foam gets where you want it. Twist the foam a little where it will settle out the lengh it wants. After it dries it will never move, I've got 30 year olds still not moving. Keep in mind when you slide the foam on it will shorten in lengh due to the amount it expands depending the size of the blank verses the size of the hole in the foam. On smaller blanks with bigger holes in the foam I do the same thing but put a fine layer of epoxy on the area the foam will be staying. Make sure to wipe of any excess glue before the water dries on the foam. Hopes this helps you out.


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## Swampland

johnmyjohn said:


> I've used a lot of foam grips and never had to reem any of them out. If they are a tight fit just use soapy water on the blank and slide the foam on down where you want it. I've put the grips in hot water before to make them more flexible before sliding them on too. Just slide the foam down as far as it will fall and put the butt on the floor and finish sliding the foam down where you want it, don't stop the slide till the foam gets where you want it. Twist the foam a little where it will settle out the lengh it wants. After it dries it will never move, I've got 30 year olds still not moving. Keep in mind when you slide the foam on it will shorten in lengh due to the amount it expands depending the size of the blank verses the size of the hole in the foam. On smaller blanks with bigger holes in the foam I do the same thing but put a fine layer of epoxy on the area the foam will be staying. Make sure to wipe of any excess glue before the water dries on the foam. Hopes this helps you out.


The process that John described above works great on the older softer EVA that's been available for years but within the last couple or three years manufacturers have been introducing a lighter and denser EVA grip material.

These newer grips will not expand as much as the softer EVA grip does therefore they need to be treated more like cork than soft EVA. They are very easy to ream by hand or if you have a lathe you can chuck it up and ream to within an inch or so from where it needs to be glued. Batson has been making them for me for at least three years and are now included in their catalog.


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## Bullard International

James,

There is an article written by Jim Trelikes in the December issue of the RodCrafters Journal. Jim gives up a secret that he has been using for many years. It makes installing EVA and Hypalon a snap!!


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## flatsmaster14

I boil water and stick the grip in it for a few mins, helps alot


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## [email protected]

I ended up using a drill bit and I must say that it worked out very very nicely, I took a gamble by drilling it out but I was pleasantly surprised. The cheap reamers I have work fine for cork but end up falling apart on the new denser lighter eva foam. I don't have the funds at the moment to buy 3 more reamers right now for 12 bucks a piece so the drill bit will have to work for now, but I see no problem with doing it that way as long as you don't drill crooked and take it slow. Yeah with the new denser eva foam there is no way to horse it on there.


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## Silverfox1

I use tapered reamers from Bass Tool, use them in my drill press.


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## patfatdaddy

As long as the grip ID is more than half of the blank OD you can use acetone to slide the grips down as far as you need. Just get as much acetone as possible between the grip and blank and put acetone on the blank below the grip and pucs it down.
Pat


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## [email protected]

This may be a very stupid question but are yall gluing the foam grips on the rods or just letting them hold in place due to the constriction of the tight fit? I figured that you would just glue them in like a cork grip but after hearing about acetone and soapy water I'm not thinking that you use the insanely tight fit to your advantage and that they will stay there without glue. I already reamed out my grip tonight so it will have to be glued and hopefully the glue works on eva foam but if I should not use glue on the next one I won't.


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## BIG BUBBA

Just get enough epoxy up high enough on the blank so it can get fully between the grip and the rod blank. That way it lubes the blank and the grip just slides on down into place nice 'n easy. Grip it at the top and squeeze to trap the air and glue inside and you'll be surprised at how easy it goes on. 

Good to have a few reamers around too cause you can only stretch a grip so much. The ones Swampland sells are darn good.

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NO TRUBBA, BIG BUBBA
6'6" 340 pounds and still growin'


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## johnmyjohn

[email protected] said:


> This may be a very stupid question but are yall gluing the foam grips on the rods or just letting them hold in place due to the constriction of the tight fit? I figured that you would just glue them in like a cork grip but after hearing about acetone and soapy water I'm not thinking that you use the insanely tight fit to your advantage and that they will stay there without glue. I already reamed out my grip tonight so it will have to be glued and hopefully the glue works on eva foam but if I should not use glue on the next one I won't.


 That's correct, no glue needed if tight fit. I cut a grip off a rebuild that I soaped on 30+ years and it was trying to stick on. As for the EVA I'm still treating them the same way as the old foam and having no problems. Eva just loses more lengh when streched on a bigger blank.


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## Jim Trelikes

*Wow............all the horror stories about installing any type "foam" grips never ceases to make me laugh out loud.*

*The article Silvia speaks of earlier in this thread..........it's a "must read" for the people who use reamers, soap, boiling water, and whatever other extreme. My method makes the installation so easy it's actually FUN!!*

*Total game changer. This one will save you sooooo much time. And we all know what time translates into............*


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## Bill Stevens

*Jim T:*

Jim T. - A little advice please:

This thread started by a guy installing a new Fuji SK split seat.

That thing may need internal arbors - all parts need precision test fit - seat and arbor -

To get the proper rear grip length on a rod it needs to land in a specific place. Very little room for error.

The seat and arbor need a good adhesive joint - many use Rod Bond for the seat and arbor.

When you use your procedure do you have the capability of forward and reverse slight movement after the EVA is in position so that the seat will match up with the EVA piece? If you shove it too far down can you move it back to the proper location?

or

If you are using acetone in some way how would you do the EVA and seat at the same time?

Thanks for any advice you can give on two piece seat installation with EVA pieces.


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## Silverfox1

I just built a rod last week with eva grips and installed them using golf grip tape and MEK as a lube, they are tight as can be.


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## Jim Trelikes

Bill Stevens said:


> Jim T. - A little advice please:
> 
> This thread started by a guy installing a new Fuji SK split seat.
> 
> That thing may need internal arbors - all parts need precision test fit - seat and arbor -
> 
> To get the proper rear grip length on a rod it needs to land in a specific place. Very little room for error.
> 
> The seat and arbor need a good adhesive joint - many use Rod Bond for the seat and arbor.
> 
> When you use your procedure do you have the capability of forward and reverse slight movement after the EVA is in position so that the seat will match up with the EVA piece? If you shove it too far down can you move it back to the proper location?
> 
> or
> 
> If you are using acetone in some way how would you do the EVA and seat at the same time?
> 
> Thanks for any advice you can give on two piece seat installation with EVA pieces.


*Yessir! You can move it around. Matter of fact, I always stop a bit short every time to add or remove adhesives before seating it in it's final resting spot. Been using this method over thirty five years and it's by far the best method hands down.*

*Everytime I've done a live demonstration for a very select few.......it drops their jaw. Clean up is a snap as well!*

*But if you're comfy doing it your way, that's fine. Just here to help.........not force feed anything my friend!*

*You can ask people here like Doc Ski, or Saltydawg if you'd like a testimonial or two. *

:cheers:


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## xxxxxQTRODS

[email protected] said:


> I ended up using a drill bit and I must say that it worked out very very nicely, I took a gamble by drilling it out but I was pleasantly surprised. The cheap reamers I have work fine for cork but end up falling apart on the new denser lighter eva foam. I don't have the funds at the moment to buy 3 more reamers right now for 12 bucks a piece so the drill bit will have to work for now, but I see no problem with doing it that way as long as you don't drill crooked and take it slow. Yeah with the new denser eva foam there is no way to horse it on there.


no reams work good for foam they are for cork. mudhole sells butterffly bits disign for foam they are made by flexcoat which i have, they work pretty good. they also have some butterfly bits that u pull through the grip backwards that want to try..........bennie


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## Bill Stevens

*Jim T: Thanks*

The last line of your first post is the one that caught my eye -

Those are the exact reasons this old dog would love to learn new tricks!

Time is too scarce and money is too short -

I actually hate working with EVA (old soft or new hard) due to difficulties I have with final fit up of multipart split seats when exact rear grip measurements are required.


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## EdH

Guys - as Sylvia posts on this thread Jim T shared his method in the latest issue of RodCrafters Journal just being sent out. I think Jim wants to let those who have paid their subscription get a first chance to see his method. That's only fair. By the way that issue is loaded with information and well worth the price. Yeah there's lots of free info on the internet but some is good and some is great. Not everyone has gotten their copy yet as I see on other boards. Maybe in a while Jim will say it's OK to put it out on the net. In the mean time keep on doing what works for you. IMHO you get more value out of an annual subscription than you might think. Tips and methods shown will save you the time and do overs. Just sayin. I realize the economy is tight and some can't afford alot of extras. But who says rod building is an inexpensive endeavor.


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## Jim Trelikes

*Thanks Ed...........and yup, just trying to help. As in all the rodbuilders out there, and especially the Guild.*

*I make nothing for giving up a 35 year old trade secret. Sometimes I ask myself why I bother. *

:headknock:headknock:headknock:headknock


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## Bullard International

Jim Trelikes said:


> *Thanks Ed...........and yup, just trying to help. As in all the rodbuilders out there, and especially the Guild.*
> 
> *I make nothing for giving up a 35 year old trade secret. Sometimes I ask myself why I bother. *
> 
> :headknock:headknock:headknock:headknock


Powerful December issue for the RodCrafters Journal JT and you know I appreciate you and all that you do soooo much!


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## xxxxxQTRODS

*that is good for soft foam*

this new hard foam is a different animal u have to get pretty close to fit the blank espicially if u have inlays in it. the hard eva is good for doing inlay because of its densenity. that the butterfly bit work. ii just got through building a rod that i used block foam to builds some inlays in. i learned somthing about the flexcoat bit. if u are skilled with a cordless drill u can take the bit after dilling the foam almost to fit and go in at an angle and the bit will clean up the whole and u can size to fit.


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## [email protected]

Thinking about getting the flex coat bits because I am using a lot of eva foam now and the drill seems to be the best way to ream them. Should I get the reverse flex coat bits or the regular flex coat bits. If I understand it correctly on the reverse bit you pull the bit through the grip instead of pushing it though? I'm going by mudholes website and there isn't much instruction and the description isn't very helpful.


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## [email protected]

Here is another question to add on to all of this. I used the SK2 reel seat on my last rod and have a few more that I want to use, they are sweet and light weight so i would like to start using them more often. Problem is, is that they use an arbor that is graphite I believe. Harder material than even the eva foam so it stripped my cheap reamers again. So how do I ream these? If I buy the higher quality reamers from swamp land will they work on eva foam, and also will they work on the graphite arbors? This problem has me stumped completely. Is there a such thing as a metal reamer that you can shuck into a drill and use that progressively gets bigger the further you go down on it like a cork reamer? That arbor material is pretty hard and I doubt a sandpaper reamer will work but I could be wrong. The drill bit worked for me on the last rod because the drill bit was the exact size that it needed to be but if I have a blank that is slightly smaller or bigger then the drill bit won't work since this arbor won't stretch whatsoever. It would be great if the higher quality cork reamers would work for eva foam and the graphite arbors but I don't know if they will and don't want to spend the money on new reamers if they won't work on the denser eva and arbors since the cheap reamers I have work find for the cork right now. Yes the method on putting eva grips on that Jim came up with may work for me and be great but that still leaves those arbors to be reamed out. I think I may have just found a solution, adjustable hand reamers...... Anyone know of where I can find one that starts at about 3/8 of an inch and goes up or maybe a little smaller than 3/8 and goes up? I think this may be what I need as long as they make one small enough


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## [email protected]

Sorry took too long and couldn't edit my last post. I don't want to have to get adjustable hand reamers from a tool company, they are crazy expensive. All in all I just want to know if the high end reamers that Swampland and Mudhole sells, I thin mudhole calls them dream reamers will work on the denser eva foam and graphite arbors. I am going to get the regular flexcoat pilot drill bits, not the reverse ones for long handles, but those will only get me close, I am hoping the dream reamers, or swamplands version of them will ream out eva foam and graphite arbors. Thanks for the help and sorry about the long posts.


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## BigBobTx

I beleive that Swampland carries the Dream Reamers made by Batson and Mudhole carries a simular product with a different name. I use the Dream Reamer. If I'm wrong Lance will set me stright.


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## Swampland

Batson makes the Dream Reamers that you can chuck in a lathe or drill. The Flex Coat pilot bits works great on arbors because of their smaller size. The Reverse bits are made for handles. The reamers are GREAT for both EVA and cork. 

I have reamed hundreds of cork and EVA with the same reamers with no signs of wear. I would recommend the Pilot Bits but you can do without the Reverse Bits in my opinion. 

I sell the Flex Coat bits and the Batson Dream Reamers either individually or in a kit. 

James if you want to give me a call today I can walk you through my process of reaming your grips and arbors in just a few minutes.


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## xxxxxQTRODS

*qtrods*



Bullard International said:


> Powerful December issue for the RodCrafters Journal JT and you know I appreciate you and all that you do soooo much!


i read the article and i appreciate it. i us gel shaving creme u talk about a mess but pic this up in an earlier edition of rodcrafters. next time i'm at the hardware store i will pickup some of that elmers glue, because i steel slide grips on and the way i see that glue is easy to clean and is not going to get in my hair. i did not mean to disturb u with my comments................bennie


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## [email protected]

Lance, I'm going to call you tomorrow to order some stuff including a few of your nice reamers.


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