# Bow Hunting - Newbie!



## Reel Girl (Jan 7, 2013)

This year will be my first time to bow hunt... It's relatively new to me, but I am sooooo excited!!!  I just want to get some advice before I climb into my stand... 

I'll be hunting whitetail, so I should be pulling between 30 and 40 lbs., correct? 

Also, I currently own a diamond edge... Everyone swears I need a Matthews bow (specialized for women) though, but does it really matter? I don't have any problems with my current bow, but I'd like to weigh options for next year.

Thanks for your help!


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## bobcat_fisherman (Jul 3, 2012)

Can't offer much advice but good luck! Post pics if you get one! I've been wanting to get into bowhunting too but don't have a good place for it.


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## Sgrem (Oct 5, 2005)

Shoot whatever bow is right for you! Noone can recommend a bow. You have to go shoot all the top manufacturers bow offerings that would be your size. 

Lower poundage is fine. Get heavier arrows and cut on contact broadheads scary sharp.

Hunt the wind religiously. Do not chance a bad wind it can ruin your chance on a big buck for the season. Every trip to your stand you are educating them so move around and control as much scent as possible. Don't touch trees etc. Only put on hunt clothes and boots in the field then take em off and change coming out of the field. One step wearing your hunt boots at the gas station or coffee shop and your boots will smell like oil forever. Your hair is a big scent trap so manage that....I shave mine but you may find a different strategy...


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## saltwatersensations (Aug 30, 2004)

My advice would be consistentcy whenever you use your bow. Make sure you are doing everything the same everytime. As far as the matthews goes I wouldnt worry about that if you are happy with what you have. Oh always wear a harness, aim small miss small and good luck.


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## T_rout (Jul 25, 2013)

Reel Girl said:


> This year will be my first time to bow hunt... It's relatively new to me, but I am sooooo excited!!!  I just want to get some advice before I climb into my stand...
> 
> I'll be hunting whitetail, so I should be pulling between 30 and 40 lbs., correct?
> 
> ...


40 lbs will work but I'd crank it up as much as you can pull back about 5-6 times without really having to struggle. Once you develop the muscles needed to draw your bow it will become much easier. It really doesn't matter what brand you shoot as long as you practice, practice, practice and you become confident and lethal within a comfortable shooting distance. At first you will need to only take shots you are comfortable with. Nothing worse than a new bow hunter wounding/crippling deer by trying to make shots they can't make.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Sgrem (Oct 5, 2005)

Must keep your straight line form and bend at the waist for shooting from an elevated stand. Biggest mistake newbies make.

Think about it....if you don't bend at the waist and just drop your arm you are changing your anchor point....you are no longer aiming with any accuracy. Draw straight just like when you practice on the ground and bend at the waist to keep that upper block together.

Have a plan of when you will draw. If you wait till they are clear they will bust you. You need to draw early or wait till they looking away. The timing to get setup is the fun part of bow hunting.

Don't shoot a deer looking at you....they can and will get out of the way of the arrow.


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## Reel Girl (Jan 7, 2013)

Great advice everyone!!! Thank you!

Tell me if this is silly... Would it be beneficial for me to practice shooting while sitting down (in my backyard)? I know I'll be elevated in the field, but maybe it will help?

Also, I've told myself that I won't shoot at anything over 25 yards away... Is that unreasonable? I feel confident up to that point.


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## Sgrem (Oct 5, 2005)

25 yards is fine.

Yes gear up in similar bulky clothes and practice with your back against a tree then move the target at all angles ... you will have to shoot at goofy angles so make sure you practice em. I sit on stand but usually stand when animals are near so I shoot standing.


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## Mr. Saltwater (Oct 5, 2012)

Reel Girl said:


> Also, I've told myself that I won't shoot at anything over 25 yards away... Is that unreasonable? I feel confident up to that point.


I absolutely applaud your decision!! Too many beginner bow hunters think just because they can hit a target at long ranges they should try long shots at deer. Targets don't move or react to the noise of a bow's release. The longer the shot the greater the chance of a wounded and lost deer.

PATIENCE is the key to consistently making clean quick kills and a fast and successful recovery. Shooting a light draw weight makes shot placement even more critical because your arrow is not likely to blow through bones. As said before, heavier arrows and a "cut on contact" head will help improve penetration from a lighter bow. Learn the deer's anatomy well and realize that from an elevated position the point of entry (depending on the distance of the shot) will need to be higher on the deer than if shooting from the ground, so aim for the center of the vital organ and not just the deer. Broadside or SLIGHTLY quartering away lungs and heart is the ONLY shot you should take. Arrows can deflect at strange angles off of rib bones if hit at an angle, so the more perfect broadside the better. Deer often react to a shot by dropping down in preparation to jump, so aiming a little low can help ensure a lower hit and a better blood trail. Don't be overanxious and force a marginal shot, but wait for the perfect one!! Wound the deer and lose it and you won't get another opportunity...pass up a marginal shot and you will likely get another chance at the deer later.

After the shot, give the deer a minimum of 30 minutes before you get out of the stand. Find the arrow first...it will tell you a lot about where you hit. Bright red blood means a lung shot and the deer is likely dead within 50 yards. Dark reddish purple means a liver hit and you should give the deer at least another 30 minutes before taking up the trail. A fairly clean arrow that smells of guts means you should wait 4-5 hours before looking for the deer. Hair can also give you clues about your shot. Follow the trail slowly and quietly, and if you jump the deer back out and take up the search later. Small pieces of white tissue paper dropped along the blood trail are VERY helpful in back tracking and finding the trail if you lose it or need to continue the search later.

Only use RAZOR SHARP broadheads!! If they won't shave hair they won't kill cleanly or quickly. Broadheads fired even once into a target should not be used for hunting unless you know how to resharpen them.

Be sure to practice a few shots from an elevated position. Your arrow will most likely hit a little higher than your bow sights say it will (depending on distance, and arrow weight and velocity) because your arrow is not having to compensate for gravity the same as if shooting from the ground.

Knowing when to draw is a skill you will learn over time with experience and intuition. As stated before, NEVER release an arrow at a deer that is looking at you. The chances of only wounding it are FAR greater than making a clean kill. If you are busted, hold your draw as motionless as possible if you can until the deer looks away. It sometimes helps to partially close your eyes and avoid eye contact with the deer. I don't know if a deer can actually spot the shine of your eyes, but my experience makes me believe they can.

If you take up bow hunting content to just watch deer and other wildlife, enjoy the beauty of the day in the woods, and patiently wait for the right moment, it can be THE most rewarding and fulfilling of all hunting activities. From your past posts concerning hunting ethics and appreciation of all the beauty that nature has to offer, I suspect that you are in for a LOT of success and enjoyment!!

I wish you the BEST OF LUCK!!


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## Sgrem (Oct 5, 2005)

The eye thing.....Think about predators. Predators like cats and owls and hawks and eagles and coyotes stare down their prey like a laser beam with two big ole eyes. If you close one and turn your head so you only have one eye they will dismiss you easier.

My PH and I in Africa were in mid sneak all stooped over sneaking in on some Gemsbok. Bull busted us and stared at us inspecting us for over 20 minutes. He and I both held that position motionless. Then they bull and herd dismissed us as part of the bushes or whatever and never looked at us again. Talking to him later he and i both closed one eye and cocked our head so the bull couldnt see our predator stare. Who knows where we picked up that trick but it does make a difference. Shot a great trophy bull gemsbok 20 minutes later. Just close an eye....it works. 

Neither of us could move our backs that night from holding that position until we had lots of whiskey.


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## Reel Girl (Jan 7, 2013)

Mr. Saltwater said:


> PATIENCE is the key to consistently making clean quick kills and a fast and
> If you take up bow hunting content to just watch deer and other wildlife, enjoy the beauty of the day in the woods, and patiently wait for the right moment, it can be THE most rewarding and fulfilling of all hunting activities. From your past posts concerning hunting ethics and appreciation of all the beauty that nature has to offer, I suspect that you are in for a LOT of success and enjoyment!!
> 
> I wish you the BEST OF LUCK!!


This!!! It's exactly what I'm hoping for. 

Thank you so much! Your post was very helpful!


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## Whitebassfisher (May 4, 2007)

I haven't read every word of all the responses, but I would set a maximum of 20 yards. Sound travels roughly 1100 feet per second, and your arrow will travel less than 300 feet per second. That means the further you shoot, the more time elapses between the deer hearing the shot and the arrow arriving, giving the deer time to move and possible wounding it. Most bows shoot fairly flat to 20 yards, so only one pin will be needed, which means during the excitement you can't use the wrong pin. If the deer alerts and looks at you on the draw, don't release ... their reaction time in beyond great. If you get drawn and the deer doesn't know you are around, you stand a good chance!  Choose your release time and the deer's body position well. The deer should be broadside or quartering away, giving you a good angle to enter the lungs. It is best if the shoulder nearest you is stepped forward, leaving only a deer's thin ribs to protect the lungs. A sharp arrow hitting both lungs will kill quickly. I prefer shooting fairly low in the lung area because a deer must lower its body first to bend its legs to be able to jump. 

So are you supposed to really watch a deer at 25 yards and not shoot because it may be too far? It worked well for me. Bow hunting is extremely addictive! You spend a lot of time observing deer that you don't shoot, learn more about their body language, etc than you ever have. If I were hooked to a polygraph machine at the time I draw, the needles would be off the chart due to excitement! Have fun and enjoy nature.


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## Reel Girl (Jan 7, 2013)

Whitebassfisher said:


> I haven't read every word of all the responses, but I would set a maximum of 20 yards. Sound travels roughly 1100 feet per second, and your arrow will travel less than 300 feet per second. That means the further you shoot, the more time elapses between the deer hearing the shot and the arrow arriving, giving the deer time to move and possible wounding it. Most bows shoot fairly flat to 20 yards, so only one pin will be needed, which means during the excitement you can't use the wrong pin. If the deer alerts and looks at you on the draw, don't release ... their reaction time in beyond great. If you get drawn and the deer doesn't know you are around, you stand a good chance!  Choose your release time and the deer's body position well. The deer should be broadside or quartering away, giving you a good angle to enter the lungs. It is best if the shoulder nearest you is stepped forward, leaving only a deer's thin ribs to protect the lungs. A sharp arrow hitting both lungs will kill quickly. I prefer shooting fairly low in the lung area because a deer must lower its body first to bend its legs to be able to jump.
> 
> So are you supposed to really watch a deer at 25 yards and not shoot because it may be too far? It worked well for me. Bow hunting is extremely addictive! You spend a lot of time observing deer that you don't shoot, learn more about their body language, etc than you ever have. If I were hooked to a polygraph machine at the time I draw, the needles would be off the chart due to excitement! Have fun and enjoy nature.


Hmmnnn... Now this has me thinking... Keep it simple with one sight? Or will I be limiting myself?


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## Mr. Saltwater (Oct 5, 2012)

Reel Girl said:


> Hmmnnn... Now this has me thinking... Keep it simple with one sight? Or will I be limiting myself?


Depends on how much your arrow drops from 10 to 20 yards. If you practice at different ranges with one pin and can estimate distance accurately then one pin would work. With enough practice it will become as instinctive as throwing a ball. Stick with what you practice with.


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## Reel Girl (Jan 7, 2013)

Mr. Saltwater said:


> Depends on how much your arrow drops from 10 to 20 yards. If you practice at different ranges with one pin and can estimate distance accurately then one pin would work. With enough practice it will become as instinctive as throwing a ball. Stick with what you practice with.


There is a big difference... I'll leave for now until I'm more experienced (40! Lol).


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## TK_5850 (Sep 29, 2015)

def practice shooting however you will be during hunt. if you plan to shoot sitting that's all you should practice for that hunt. you only get 1 shot in the field so I like to practice one shot then wait a good while between shots. keeps your focus on that one shot because that's all you get when it counts
Good Luck


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## Sgrem (Oct 5, 2005)

Remember you will aim for the opposite shoulder.


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## Reel Girl (Jan 7, 2013)

sgrem said:


> Remember you will aim for the opposite shoulder.


You had me, then you lost me... Lol. 

Are you saying to focus on where the "exit" point would be?


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## wet dreams (May 21, 2004)

My son made a cpl rookie mistakes this past w/e, heres a few tips that I find VERY important. I use 1 pin so as not to get confused, on my first deer I used the 30yr pin on a deer that was 15yrds away, luckly she came back. When you practice shoot a cpl for accuracy then shoot just hit target to build muscles. If elevated, practice from standing, sitting won't allow you to shoot close, as you can NOT bend at waist far enough and you WILL shoot at least 6" high at 20yrds. Stand when you see deer coming, you won't be able to move much at all if you wait, AND there will be more eyes for you to deal with. For your first deer >shoot the first deer that walks up, don't matter if its still got milk on its mouth< get that behind you. Learn to shoot with both eyes OPEN, you will be able to watch arrow flight AND it will allow you to hunt later. IF your peeps set correctly don't worry about finding it when you draw>its there< just focus on pin and target. IMO one of the most important things on keeping a deer from 'jumping' the string is DO NOT shoot at a alarmed deer, you want to shoot when its at ease. As has been said you MUST bend at your waist, if not you will be high, as been said draw to your anchor point as if on flat ground, then bend until target comes into sight picture. The mistakes my son made this past w/e was touching the bottom of tree before going up and leaving his rope (for pulling bow up) hanging.> a hog came within 5' of the tree, spooked then ran stopping at 25 yrds then left, he saw a deer coming from behind and she went a different direction that he thought bringing her 15yrds, then a hog spooked her and off she went>>>BOTH times he remained seated until it was too late, BOTH times he could have got off a shot IF he would have been standing. If your sitting overlooking a feeder put you a pile of corn where you want your shot and wait. When I started I would trophy hunt the first 10 minutes, after that anything that come inside 30 was fair game.....


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## Sgrem (Oct 5, 2005)

Exactly. Aim for the opposite shoulder. On a hard quartering away shot it will feel as though you are aiming right in front of the rear hip.....and that is correct shot placement. Look at some images amd you will see the arrow path is right thru all the vitals this way.

If you were to simply aim for the shoulder closest to you you would wound thru the some shoulder and brisket and miss the vitals all together.


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## Whitebassfisher (May 4, 2007)

Reel Girl said:


> Hmmnnn... Now this has me thinking... Keep it simple with one sight? Or will I be limiting myself?


I can't answer that for your situation because I was shooting 70 pounds while keeping a hard and fast rule not to shoot past 20 yards. One pin was great for me. I admit I can't hunt anymore due to my back, but I was successful at bow hunting and I always stayed with the 20 yard rule. I am biased, but I think bow hunting is the best by far!


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## Reel Girl (Jan 7, 2013)

Thanks for the good advice, everyone!


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## HOO'S NEXT (Aug 22, 2009)

There is a lot of really good advice in this thread. Anyone new to bow hunting should read this thread at least 3 times before ever hitting the woods with a bow in hand.


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## Shaky (May 21, 2004)

Practice, practice, practice......and your bow is fine, no need to spend a big chunk of change on the latest and greatest!
I am just now coming back into bow hunting after a several year hiatus and picked up the Diamond Infinity Edge in black to shoot it. Amazing bow, I've got a brand new one coming monday and can hardly wait. I'm 6'1 and er uh around 260 or so.....eh hmmm, but anyhow, it felt just as good to me as some of the other higher end bows that I tried. Diamond bows are made by Bowtech, and they rank right up there with Matthews in quality imo......


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## txjustin (Jun 3, 2009)

Good thread. Keep us updated! ONce youve been bitten by the "bug" you'll be addicted.


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## Reel Girl (Jan 7, 2013)

Just curious... 

As far as practice goes, how many arrows do y'all shoot on average (during a day)? I don't want to "overdo" it.


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## Sgrem (Oct 5, 2005)

When you are hunting you will shoot one. So I practice maybe two or three shots...then I walk away....then maybe another one or two....etc. 

Its not like Olympic target shooting where I would sit there and shoot twenty or thirty in a session. I need to be accurate from sitting for a long while somewhat stiff from the cold ... then ONE shot. Being warmed up and on the fifth shot doesn't help and isn't realistic hunting practice.


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## wet dreams (May 21, 2004)

Reel Girl said:


> Just curious...
> 
> As far as practice goes, how many arrows do y'all shoot on average (during a day)? I don't want to "overdo" it.


Might not have included it in my post, I would say shoot a cpl for accuracy then just shoot to build muscle, don't matter where you hit, just shoot paying attention to your form....


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## Bird (May 10, 2005)

I try to practice with about 20-30 shots when I'm at the range. First 3-5 are for checking accuracy of me and equipment and the rest of the shots are for form and to stay in shape. Make sure to check your sight and rest for any loose screws before you start shooting each session. Try holding full draw back a little longer each time without letting yourself get to muscle fatigue. During this practice time, think about getting to the same exact anchor point each time until it becomes second nature. Also see if you can get someone to video a few releases from behind you (checks for bow torque) and from your release side (checks for slapping the trigger). Slo mo video works great for this.


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## Whitebassfisher (May 4, 2007)

Some of the questions about bow hunting are actual facts, such as deer have a good nose. How many shots per day leans more toward opinion or a physical trainer question. Proper form is important I think. As example, I had the web of my hand between thumb and index finger behind the hinge of my jaw bone under my ear for anchor point. That put the end of my index finger right at the corner of my mouth. I am not saying that is proper, but it did allow me to have the same anchor point each time. As to the number of shots, until I started to tire. I would push myself a little to build muscle, but I did not want to continue shooting when muscles were shot because I was scared it would lead to poor form and bad release. I also played a game each day .... the first shot was the real thing in my mind.

I had a sheet of 3/4 plywood and a washing machine sized block of foam in my back yard. It was so easy to just take a few shots.


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## Sgrem (Oct 5, 2005)

About a month before season starts my bow lives in the living room. If I'm watching TV or relaxing I will draw and hold and build muscle strength. Try to draw and hold through the commercial break for example. There will be a time when it doesn't work out and you will have to let down and start over. Try to do it quietly etc. Draw and hold for two minutes, let off....wait a minute then do it again....silently without moving.


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## Reel Girl (Jan 7, 2013)

Thanks again, everyone! So helpful as always!


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## esp (Mar 24, 2010)

Reel Girl said:


> Just curious...
> 
> As far as practice goes, how many arrows do y'all shoot on average (during a day)? I don't want to "overdo" it.


When the time comes to shoot you only get one shot. Just pick up your now occasionally thru the day and fire one shot. You will be surprised how accurate you are shooting one shot at a time. Groups aren't as important as that single first shot. 
Good luck!!

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## Chunky (Oct 15, 2006)

Welcome to the sport. 

You have asked some great questions and gotten some really good advice so far. Let me try and add some.

As far as practice goes, I shoot often (a couple of times a week) but I don't shoot for that long. If I start getting tired or my focus starts to go...I QUIT. Shooting then will only make you worse. Plus, I like to keep practice fun. We shoot at balloons, flying targets, and all kinds of things, so as not to just keep stabbing a bag in the center.

For hunting, try and get as close to the shot you plan on taking. If you are going to hunt in a tent blind sitting down, practice that way. If you can wear your camo that is even better. I also pretent that my 3-D target is a real deer. I try to draw my bow, slowly and smoothly like I would when I had a real animal in front of me. Take the one shot and judge how I did.

We don't know how good a shot you are, but you should always keep your shots at a range where you feel like it will be a kill every time. I shoot trad, and all of my shots are under 25, with most being about 15 and very very few over 20. That is were I put my hand corn for the exact shot I want.

Know your distances from your stand. You can put a rock, stick, whatever at the ranges you might shoot. Example the big white rock is at 18, so a deer standing just behind it is a perfect 20.

Always try and shoot a deer that is relaxed and in a good position, broadside or slightly quartering away. If you try and shoot an alert deer ready to bolt, the deer will often move so fast that you will miss, or worse make a bad hit.

I always hold low. I taught my two daughters that you can not hit too low, as long as you are in the chest. I am famous for saying....I would rather miss low, than to hit them high.

If you are ever on the north side of Houston, you are welcome to come by. People come shoot here every week. You could practice elevated, or in a blind, or whatever. We have a decent range and we even shoot in the barn during the winter.

Good luck.


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## Reel Girl (Jan 7, 2013)

Chunky said:


> Welcome to the sport.
> 
> You have asked some great questions and gotten some really good advice so far. Let me try and add some.
> 
> ...


Thank you! I really like what you said about setting/picking out rocks/sticks/etc. out in the field, and knowing how far away they are. I think that's going to be a BIG help!


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## T_rout (Jul 25, 2013)

Reel Girl said:


> Thank you! I really like what you said about setting/picking out rocks/sticks/etc. out in the field, and knowing how far away they are. I think that's going to be a BIG help!


One thing I do at all of my bow blinds is to take small sticks/logs and pile them up with some smaller sticks at 20 yards. When I go to the blind I put some corn in and behind the pile. When the deer comes in to eat it's head/eyes are behind the logs. Sometimes they will even close their eyes when they stick their head in the sticks. This makes it easier for you to draw your bow. This also creates more noise while they're eating to help cover any noise you might make while drawing. It also serves the purpose of giving you a marker for knowing the distance.

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## cva34 (Dec 22, 2008)

*lite bowhunting*

All I can add is Go Getem Gal...My wife bow hunted 25y and never could handle anything over 45#....usually closer to 40#..She killed deer most years (never lost a deer with a good shot)...Just gota pick your shots and stay prolly under 25y...Brand aint everything,,,Good QUIET) proper equipment and Practice practice practice...People alway say (Hitting the target must be really hard with a bow)..I always say (Pullin of the shot without alerting the deer is the toughest part)..Its a Beautiful World out there ENJOY


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## Mr. Saltwater (Oct 5, 2012)

Another factor that has not been mentioned, but can affect your accuracy and success more than anything is BUCK FEVER.
Some folks never experience it, some always get it, and some get it occasionally or only to a slight degree. And some folks get it but won't admit it.

Bowhunting, more so than rifle hunting, is more likely to bring on an attack of it. Many rifle hunts are over quickly with mere seconds passing from the time the deer is spotted until he is on the ground...little time to get overly excited. The anticipation of watching a deer approach, getting closer and closer as you wait for an opportunity for a shot with a bow can really get the adrenaline pumping. The pounding heart and uncontrollable shaking can be a game changer. I know some experienced bowhunters with countless tagged deer to their credit that have been momentarily crippled by it to the point they were too weak to draw their bow, much less place an accurate shot. And all the hours spent shooting at foam targets, or the newest top of the line equipment won't cure it. From the moment you draw on a deer until you release an arrow is "where the rubber meets the road", and drunk driving rarely ends well.

I will admit that I have had the "fever" at times, more often on the first deer of the season. Months of preparation and built up anticipation only seem to wear down my immunity to it, and the bigger the buck the worse it can be. Just watching deer that you can't or won't shoot probably helps more than anything, but doesn't guarantee absolute immunity.

Experience has taught me that the initial adrenaline rush can be overcome if you remember that it is brought on by your thoughts, and you can mentally put yourself in a calmer situation. Close your eyes, relax, take some deep breaths, and think about something else until the shakes stop and your heart slows a bit. Be content and tell yourself that you are just going to watch the deer and not take the shot. You will likely find that after a few moments of controlled thought, you are able to calmly draw the bow and place an accurate shot. Then you can let the adrenaline flow.

I believe that bow hunting is about as close as we can get to equal terms with the animal we hunt, and for me no other hunting experience gets my heart pounding like the "moment of truth" when the bow is drawn. Call it "buck fever" or whatever you will, the unequaled rush is what addicted me to the sport and keeps me coming back every Fall.


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