# Fine tuning a handload recipe question



## Bird (May 10, 2005)

So you've got a good load worked up. What are your procedures for tweaking that handload recipe for a centerfire rifle round? What do you think, results wise in accuracy, is good enough for hunting? What about target?

I realize there are tons of variables and of course personal preferences depening on how obsessive and/or well funded you are, but assume the gun is as well prepped as can be for that gun.


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## txbred (May 13, 2013)

any rifle that shoots under 1 MOA is considered accurate enough for hunting. I hand load for 308 Win using the Sierra GK 165grain for hunting (about 1 MOA) and for targets it likes the Sierra MK 168 gr (can hold about 3/8 - 1/2 MOA on a good day)

i adjust powder by 0.1 grains and use different seating depths to fine tune my hand loads. 

my rifle likes:
Hornady Match brass, 2.005" (weighed and sorted)
Sierra 168 MK (weighed and sorted)
42.1 gr Tac
WIN LR primers
2.825" oal.


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## Ernest (May 21, 2004)

Assuming you have found a basic accuracy "node", I would then play with the following: 

Brass - change to alternative brand (but don't switch from commercial to military in .308 unless you clearly understand the differences); 

Primer - change brand

Jump or jam - increase or decrease round length in small increments. 

For each change, it is done while keeping everything else the same. Then, touch off 2 five round test groups for each change. The test groups are to be fired in a relatively calm wind condition and with the rifle well sand bagged/off a rest. 

Sort of/kinda rule of thumb - Use the powder charge to minimize the vertical, use other stuff to minimize the horizontal.


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## CHARLIE (Jun 2, 2004)

Ernest said:


> Assuming you have found a basic accuracy "node", I would then play with the following:
> 
> Brass - change to alternative brand (but don't switch from commercial to military in .308 unless you clearly understand the differences);
> 
> ...


X2


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## pg542 (Oct 9, 2006)

Ernest said:


> Assuming you have found a basic accuracy "node", I would then play with the following:
> 
> Brass - change to alternative brand (but don't switch from commercial to military in .308 unless you clearly understand the differences);
> 
> ...


Can't argue with any part of this. Especially the part on changing one variable at a time then fire at least (2) 5 rd. groups looking for improvement. If there is no improvement, don't keep going that direction. I have never seen any continued improvement on something that went downhill first when a reasonable starting group was achieved. I can't say it wouldn't happen, just never to me.


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## prarie dog (Feb 28, 2011)

I'm right down the road with Ernest on this.

I would add that with long range rifles, I first find an accurate group then find out if it's real tight on SD's (very important at extended ranges) if you don't have both it isn't right.

Many of the longer VLD bullets are seating depth critical. I usually start out hard in the lands, find a tight shooting powder combo, then start experimenting with seating depth. Again SD's have to be good to avoid vertical stringing at long range.

I've found a good way to cheat. Go to 6mm BR.com and look to see if a competitive shooter isn't shooting you're cartridge in some class of shooting. Oftentimes the work is already done, or at least enough of it to get you close. There's an article in there on the 6.5-284 and loads different guys are shooting. The author prefers a load of 52 grains of 4831 SC under a 142 SMK. My rifle likes exactly .1 grain different powder charge, same seating depth. Too Easy!!


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## THE JAMMER (Aug 1, 2005)

Certainly can't add anything to the above. Exactly what I do. Once you are kinda there, I have had more luck with changing seating depth than anything else: primers, brass, etc. 10/1000 can sometimes make a world of diff.

By the way I am working up a load for a friend with 150 gr nosler partitions in a 270 wby mag. Any suggestions from anyone for a starting powder. The book calls for rl 25, which I don't have. Thinking imr 4831 or imr 4350. Anyone???


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## CHARLIE (Jun 2, 2004)

Those two have been tried and true for many years Jam. (4831 and 4350). Sounds like a good starting point to me.


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## prarie dog (Feb 28, 2011)

Jammer, think you'll find that 4831 and 4350 are both too fast. On that cartridge RL 25, H1000, Magpro should all be closer speed wise to what you're looking for. Just an opinion.


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## THE JAMMER (Aug 1, 2005)

Prairie Dog, In looking at the burning rate chart, I agree. I just don't have any of those powders, and am trying to make it work with what I have. We will see this weekend.


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## Bird (May 10, 2005)

Thanks for the replies. Pretty much confirms that I'm doing something right. 

In the interest of hijacking my own thread; Jammer, Hornady (9th edition) suggests 54.7grains to 57.1grains of IMR 4350 with 150grain round giving approximately 2800 and 2900 fps respectively


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## THE JAMMER (Aug 1, 2005)

Certainly didn't mean to hijack your thread there Bird, but looks like I did. My bad. I have been working with the nosler manual as I am using nosher bullets. Very interesting what you gave me from the Hornady manual, which I confirmed with my own hornady manual. The numbers for 150 gr partition from the nosler manual and 4350 powder are a max load of 65.0 grains for 3060 fps. Big difference between 57.1 gr max in hornady and 65.0 grains max in nosher. ***.


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## Bottomsup (Jul 12, 2006)

Jammer, 4350 works great in the Winchester .270. I developed some very accurate loads with 4350 in my 22-250 and 4831 is all my 7mm mag likes.


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## CHARLIE (Jun 2, 2004)

I doubt you can get 65 grains of powder in a 270 case. Max of 4831 was 62 (case full) 30-06. Which I hunted with a 165 Grain Hornady spire poing back in the Colorado hunting days.


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## prarie dog (Feb 28, 2011)

Bottomsup said:


> Jammer, 4350 works great in the Winchester .270. I developed some very accurate loads with 4350 in my 22-250 and 4831 is all my 7mm mag likes.


 I would agree that 4350 is good in a 22-250 and other cases of about that capacity but it's not good in cases that are much larger unless you're shooting reduced loads or extremely light bullets. You might be surprised on the 270 and 7 mag if you get a copy of Quickload, a chronograph and spend some time working with slower powders, you'll be happier than you are now.


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## artys_only (Mar 29, 2005)

Ernest said:


> Assuming you have found a basic accuracy "node", I would then play with the following:
> 
> Brass - change to alternative brand (but don't switch from commercial to military in .308 unless you clearly understand the differences);
> 
> ...


This x3


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## CHunter (May 25, 2004)

Always take a couple of fouling shots before sitting down for groupings.

I load 3 rounds of each variation whether it's powder charge, length or other.

I use Bench Rest Primers

Don't let your barrel get hot

IMR 4350 gives me better accuracy in both my 25-06 and 270 over IMR 4831.

FWIW and YMMV


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## Bottomsup (Jul 12, 2006)

prarie dog said:


> I would agree that 4350 is good in a 22-250 and other cases of about that capacity but it's not good in cases that are much larger unless you're shooting reduced loads or extremely light bullets. You might be surprised on the 270 and 7 mag if you get a copy of Quickload, a chronograph and spend some time working with slower powders, you'll be happier than you are now.


Hard to be happier than one hole groups at 100 yards.


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## Jungle_Jim (Nov 16, 2007)

I agree with only changing one thing at a time. Ina addition to trying different brass, primers etc.. I also will change my powder charge 1/10 of a grain at a time until I get the nest accuracy possible. Seating dpeth is critical in Barnes and Berger bullets.


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## Bottomsup (Jul 12, 2006)

CHunter said:


> Always take a couple of fouling shots before sitting down for groupings.
> 
> I load 3 rounds of each variation whether it's powder charge, length or other.
> 
> ...


X2


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## Jack's Pocket (Jul 16, 2014)

Bird said:


> So you've got a good load worked up. What are your procedures for tweaking that handload recipe for a centerfire rifle round? What do you think, results wise in accuracy, is good enough for hunting? What about target?
> 
> I realize there are tons of variables and of course personal preferences depening on how obsessive and/or well funded you are, but assume the gun is as well prepped as can be for that gun.


Biggest variable is your powder H4895 has lots of playing room.
http://www.imrpowder.com/PDF/Youth Loads.pdf


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## Superman70 (Aug 13, 2014)

4350 first in that weather by. Then 4831. Then RL19 then RL22. That 270 weather by isn't that overbore. Remember when that caliber was designed 4350 was ssllooww. I would only go slower if I had a 26 inch barrel and seeing some vertical stringing after making sure that the barrel was still floated. My 300 loves 4350 and 165 speer grand slams at 3300. Fps. Have fun. Love those MK V.


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