# Alternatives to concrete for driveway



## Stuart (May 21, 2004)

I will be taking delivery of a new boat soon and want to set up a place beside my garage to build or place a cover to store it. Sure, concrete is nice, but also a lot more $ than I want to spend right now. What other kind of materials are out there that will pack down pretty good? (btw, this skiff weighs in trailer and all around 1,100 pounds) I'm picturing something framed in treated timbers or lumber, kill the grass, and place and pack down some kind of material. I will be coming off a concrete drive and back a good 40 feet.

Thanks all


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## mastercylinder60 (Dec 18, 2005)

i like your idea of the treated timbers. you could make that look real nice, too.


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## clouser (Jun 14, 2006)

My brother just used fly ash for the driveway leading up to his metal building. Once a good 2" rain came, that stuff set up like concrete. I'm sure you could use it inside the building, but you'd have to water it heavily to make it set up good.

I think he paid about $15/dump truck load. I believe the guy that delivered it bought it from the power plant outside of Rosenberg (coal burning units).


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## Freshwaterman (May 21, 2004)

If you can find some milling material it works very well. I had some paving a road up to my shop & barn out by my house & once it gets packed down it will last as long as asphalt paving will, if not longer. Can't tell you who to call, but start with asphalt plants. After you put the material down spray it with diesel fuel & it will melt together.


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## Stuart (May 21, 2004)

How do you know what you are getting with fly ash? I've read reports that say depending on where it comes from, it may contain stuff such as mercury and arsenic.


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## Argo (May 21, 2004)

*cobblestone?*

Here is what I did for my 6500lb boat and 7000lb truck.


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## ROOSTER REDCHASER (Feb 25, 2005)

how bout crushed granite


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## Brewgod (May 21, 2004)

ROOSTER REDCHASER said:


> how bout crushed granite


I second that...


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## SP (Sep 28, 2006)

Oyster shells are inexpensive an crush down well when framed, and contrary to popular beleif will not damage your tires. Sprinkle with lime after installation.


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## mudhog (May 9, 2005)

stuart

We did a barn in brazoria by spreading sand out to thickness needed then dump bags of cement (not premix) on top of sand then run a tiller over it until mixed, soak it down with lots of water, when it gets dry enough roll over it with whatever you got to make it smooth. those big steel rollers work good, we just used a flat hood from a junk truck turned over with a engine block and concrete blocks for weight and drug it across with a 4-wheeler until it was packed and smooth. When it dries its hard. I put a truck on jackstands on it during a restroration project and it held good. I believe we used a bag of cement per sq yd of sand the more the harder results, you can even add dyes for color.


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## Hair Trigger (Dec 23, 2005)

I just did crushed granite in the alley way of my barn but I did put down 3 inches of (fine) caliche base first.


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## Hooked (Oct 15, 2004)

I liked watching Argo's project......that boy sure likes work.... 
Another suggestion is if you can find a highway project underway where they are machine stripping the old asphalt and can get some it'll work well also. Unfortunately, they won't generally sell any these days. I got some several years ago when they were doing the NASA 1 project and it'll melt back into hard pavement during our hot summers.


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## myax (Sep 21, 2006)

Good way to go is to dig a few inches out in the area you are going to use, surround it with metal edge and dump crushed granite into it. You will need to rent a compactor for a day to get it solid. Great look, very durable and useable.


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## Fuelin (Jun 21, 2005)

*Limestone*

Crushed Limestone? Easy to find and runs around 500.00 a 16 ton load.


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## flatsfats (May 21, 2004)

mudhog said:


> stuart
> 
> We did a barn in brazoria by spreading sand out to thickness needed then dump bags of cement (not premix) on top of sand then run a tiller over it until mixed, soak it down with lots of water, when it gets dry enough roll over it with whatever you got to make it smooth. those big steel rollers work good, we just used a flat hood from a junk truck turned over with a engine block and concrete blocks for weight and drug it across with a 4-wheeler until it was packed and smooth. When it dries its hard. I put a truck on jackstands on it during a restroration project and it held good. I believe we used a bag of cement per sq yd of sand the more the harder results, you can even add dyes for color.


stabilized sand. good stuff. you can get it delivered already mixed and ready to put down. better get r done within a couple hours tho. just like concrete it doesn't wait on you. it must be compacted or it won't be worth more than plain old sand. last i checked it was running about $16/ton delivered.

or

asphalt reclaim is pretty good stuff. keep an eye out for anyone milling up an asphalt road around you. they may drop you a few loads for free if you're closer than disposal site. put down in 4" lifts and compact as you go. make sure your base is dry. if its wet till in a 1/2 pallet of lime to stabilize base and you shouldn't have any problems.

or

if you have access to a tractor dig your base down about 12". bring in "bull rock" (crushed concrete chunks about 10" in diameter) and top with a load of crushed concrete (1" material). last i checked crushed concrete was about $10 a ton. you will have to pay for delivery.


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## Stuart (May 21, 2004)

Yeah, I could borrow dad's tractor and box blade.

Thanks for all the suggestions. Looks like I have some thinking to do.


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## Stuart (May 21, 2004)

Argo said:


> Here is what I did for my 6500lb boat and 7000lb truck.


Argo, dude it is pretty, but with my back the way it is I would end up in traction


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## flatsfats (May 21, 2004)

stuart the cheapest way would probably be to just cut your base down to about 6" and till in some lime then top with crushed concrete. the lime may not be necessary depending on how good your base is and how well it drains. it also won't work with sandy soil.

40ft x 12ft x 6" = 9 yds

1.5 ton per cubic yd: 9yd x 1.5 =13.5 ton


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## Maddog (Aug 12, 2005)

Stuart, I see you are in Lake Jackson, check with Garner Paving. They are currently reclaiming Dixie Dr. I don't know where they are dumping it, but I know they probably only have a couple days left. Matula and Matula is the general contractor, and John Matula is a pretty good guy.


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## Argo (May 21, 2004)

my 5 year old did most the work :biggrin:


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## manintheboat (Jun 1, 2004)

That really looks good Argo. Do you have more pictures of the finished product to post? Did you have any problems with your homeowners association on that?


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## Argo (May 21, 2004)

I dont have a homeowners association. I can probably find a few more pics or take some in a few. here are some progression pics.


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## Argo (May 21, 2004)

here you go. I put my truck in for size reference. I still have a couple feet behind it to go. it is 80' long and about 16' wide at its wide point and 9.5' wide the rest of the way. havent cleaned up in a while though.


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## InfamousJ (May 21, 2004)

no whiskey bumps yet? amazing..


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## trout250 (Aug 24, 2005)

concete washout works really good and once packed downis almost as good as concrete and not nearly as expensive.


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## Argo (May 21, 2004)

i went this route because in SA you need no building permit if it is not concrete and as long as the retainer is under 3'. I did need a permit to cut the curb though.


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## Super Dave (May 26, 2004)

Can I borrow your 5 yr old and his toy? :biggrin:


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## TheGoose (Jan 22, 2006)

Argo,
that setup wouldn't work here in brazoria county due to our gumbo soil. 

I recently did a similar project using crushed concrete. pack it down good, it works great.


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## scwine (Sep 7, 2006)

Argo said:


> Here is what I did for my 6500lb boat and 7000lb truck.


Nice Argo. Thanks for the business . A paver drive is definitely more appealling and something that can be done yourself ( if you wanted). Just make sure you follow the proper steps for a good install. The pavers will last (avg. 8,000-10,000 psi) its what you do under it that counts.

http://www.pavestone.com/retail/paver-plaza.html


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## scwine (Sep 7, 2006)

TheGoose said:


> Argo,
> that setup wouldn't work here in brazoria county due to our gumbo soil.
> 
> I recently did a similar project using crushed concrete. pack it down good, it works great.


As long as the proper base and thickness of the base is used, pavers will work anywhere.

1. Proper base and thickness.
2. 1" of paver sand. (different size aggregate particles, not "play sand")
3. Pavers, Not Patio Stones for vehicular traffic.
4. A concrete toe to hold sand and pavers in place.


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## Argo (May 21, 2004)

I had some pretty nasty mud under it. I used 6+' of 3/4"-dust road base and sand under it and have had no problems. Its just an idea, kinda pricey but ALOT cheaper than concrete, more than a crushed granit drive though, I think it looks better too.


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## Aggie91 (Sep 26, 2005)

I will be another one that speaks up for the crushed concrete! Once that stuff "sets up", it is really solid & it does'nt get dirty white "tire spray" on the truck or boat when it is wet like road base or caliche.


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