# Bow Handle



## RJustice (May 28, 2008)

My Dad got me a new bow for Christmas. My Girlfriends (2nd) Dad gave me a railroad tie from somewhere in South Africa that is a hbundred years old to make a handle for my new bow. I have finished the handle but have not decided on a finish for protection yet. I will post pictures of that handle when I get home. So far it is sanded all the way to 1000 grit and looks great, but I want it to last becuase I spent many days carving rasping and sanding this thing to get the perfect fit. Thanks in advance for the info.


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## RJustice (May 28, 2008)

*Pictures*

Here are pictures of the handle and the blank I started with. I do not have a picture of the raw tie that I made the blank out of. The blank is also what is left over so I might have enough good wood left to make two more.


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## Slip (Jul 25, 2006)

That is some beautiful grained wood...Good job making the handle. Beautiful.


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## Tortuga (May 21, 2004)

I think that's the best looking piece of wood I ever saw... Kudos


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## Viking48 (Jan 24, 2006)

Fine looking wood and great workmanship as well.


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## bill (May 21, 2004)

Great looking grain.

I'm no help on the finish, all the RR ties I seen were soaked in something (Cresote?) so not sure if a finish would hold up. I would wonder if it's safe to have long term exposure.


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## RJustice (May 28, 2008)

I know the wood was not treated in creasote. I have not been able to find out what kind of wood it is though. The guy had had this piece for 30 years. He could not remember what kind it was.


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## FishinNutz (Dec 31, 2009)

I think it might be Gongalo Alvez...not 100%, though. I used to build alot of Recurve bows, and my favorite finish was Conversion Varnish. I had very good results and it is very durable. It's a bit expensive, though, and I think it only comes in gallons and is a 2-part that should be sprayed. For a single project like this, Tru-Oil gunstock finish would be a good choice. It's made by Birchwood-Casey. Academy carries it.


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## Fishin Tails (Mar 21, 2007)

That wood is most likely Rhodessian Teak. That was a big wood used for railroad ties in Africa because it held up so good. When those ties were replaced they were recycled into furniture. I have a chair that I have been buiding pens out of and yes it looks just like that.


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## RJustice (May 28, 2008)

You could be correct. Cody told me he got the wood from a guy making furniture in Houston back in the 70's. What do you use as a finish for your pens?


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## jskeen (Jan 3, 2011)

To decide what finish to use, you really need to decide which is more important, how it looks or how it feels. If you want it to look like that forever, a sealed finish like a precatalized lacquer or polyurethane will keep the wood from oxidizing and picking up oil from your hand, and preserve the appearance better than anything else. But, it will feel like holding a piece of plastic, cause that's all you are touching. 

If you are more concerned about keeping that silky smooth, non slippery feel of finely sanded wood, you should look into a oil or wax based finish, such as danish oil or Linstock, like is used for fine gun stocks. It may allow the wood to oxidize to a darker color over time, and will require a little care and reapplication over the years to keep from collecting dirt, but will feel like wood in your hand, and will be less slippery if your palm starts to sweat when that 12 point monster walks out in front of your stand.


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## RJustice (May 28, 2008)

Thanks for the advise, but I have a habit of wearing gloves when I am out and about in the woods. So I am more worried about the look. I have tried tongue oil, epoxy, polish, polyurithane, and some wax from a white candle. So far I like the looks of the Poly and the wax best. Everything else changes the look of the wood too much. I am still looking for the one finish that jumps out me.


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## Bobby (May 21, 2004)

Well here you go. One that will jump out at you. Only you may have to use a buffer in your case. LOL

Bobby's Super Shine

3 ounces of plain, uncolored shellac. (Zinsser’s Bulls Eye Shellac, Clear)

3 ounces of Boiled Linseed Oil. (Do not boil plain linseed oil)

3 ounces of Denatured Alcohol (do not use any other alcohol product)

I use a pint sized mason jar for mixing and long term storage of the materials. Pour exact
amounts into the Mason jar and mix thoroughly. Do not over agitate.

Pour a day’s use into a small squeeze bottle (Harbor Freight # 94392-OVGA) for use.
Note: The alcohol will evaporate from open containers and the squeeze bottle. Return what
you don’t use to the mason jar for a pure finish.

To use:

With the lathe stopped, using a paper towel, rub in a good coat, covering all the surfaces of
the piece. Rub it in well and wait a minute, repeat the process. Now, with the lathe running
at 500-1000 RPM, add some finish to the paper towel and apply it slowly to the surface.
Keep the towel moving and the finish spreading. As the shellac adheres, the oil will begin to
catalyze and the alcohol will evaporate. All three steps are necessary for a good finish.
The coating will begin to build as you apply. At some point you will treat the finish as
complete and stop adding material and polish the surface. If it begins to attract the towel
or get gummy, stop lapping and allow it to set for a minute. Start again when it sets up. A
coat of wax makes a finished product with great results.

“If it was any easier, I’d have to come over to your
house and do it for you.”


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## RJustice (May 28, 2008)

Sounds ok, but show me what it looks like on something. I am having pretty good luck with the poly stuff. I am sanding it down with 800 between coats.


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## Knifeman (Sep 27, 2009)

Man you did a great job on that handle. 2x that is some fine looking wood. Good luck on the finish. Post up pics. when you finish.


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