# found a table saw just a couple of questions



## bioman (Jul 6, 2005)

ok after watching craiglist for a while i came across a powermatic table saw got a smokin deal. when i picked it up he said i had to keep the top covered with something so it wouldn't rust he said baby powder or mineral oil. he said the humidity down here will rust them 

will they rust 
if so how do you cover yours, a special blanket, baby powder


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## kneekap (Nov 13, 2012)

Lots of methods used for this. First, I would try and keep it away from
the SE breeze. Some guys use wax coatings. I have used Johnson's
paste wax and also automotive wax. You can keep it covered with a tarp
too. Don't use a plastic one though as that will trap moisture.
Keep a sharp lookout so no one places a cold drink on it. Every once in a while, the top needs to be checked and re-waxed to keep it shiny and slick.

Powermatic is the cadillac and should last ten+ lifetimes if maintained.
Happy sawing to you.


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## bill (May 21, 2004)

x2 on wax

It's much easier on me that after I use a tool, I wipe it down with wax as part of the cleanup process (I keep a lot of wax on hand)


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## My Little Big boat (Apr 24, 2012)

I like wax on mine also, it helps the material glide across also.


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## Hooked (Oct 15, 2004)

I've used Johnson wax in the past but a couple years ago I started using the T-9 spray. Works great and much less hassle than wax. I use it on all my cast iron tool tables. I also keep them all covered with a towel, rag, etc.

Edit:
Congrats on a great saw!!


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## bioman (Jul 6, 2005)

thanks guys cant wait to get it put together


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## goatchze (Aug 1, 2006)

I use car wax on mine. When not in use, I keep an old fitted sheet over it.


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## dicklaxt (Jun 2, 2005)

Any sort of fabric as a cover used in long term unused situations can work against you as the material will absorb and hold moisture which is conducive to rust. I have been out of the WW business for quite some time but when I did WW I always kept the table's coated with a paste wax and buffed smooth. Here's a sure fire way to prevent rust use the saw everyday for at least an hour ,,,,,,,,smile.

dick


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## Gottagofishin (Dec 17, 2005)

I use automotive paste wax on mine. About every six months. I live in central Texas though. I'd use T9 if I lived on the coast. 

If I see a little surface rust I hit it with some fine steel wool and then apply more wax. It's really not a big deal. Takes 5 minutes. 

Congrats on the Powermatic. I have one and they are fantastic.


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## chaco (Dec 24, 2010)

Yes, steel wool is good for this. In addition to the wax or the T-9, I made a thin, plywood cover that fits onto the saw just right, and has edges that keep it from slipping off. I find this to be the only way I can truly protect the surface from **** that ALWAYS get put on the table, some by me, or by my better-half, who views the table saw as my "in-box". 

I found out a long time ago that a glass of ice water or a can of soda set on top of a fabric cover will still get the table wet enough that a few days later when the fabric is pulled off, you can see the rust ring. I also tried a piece of carpet, which seemed a perfect solution. In that case I left the saw unused for several months, and when I came back and took off the carpet cover, I was aghast at the spread of surface rust. I'm sure there wasn't enough wax that time, but still - what a mess I'd made and had to clean up. 

All the points in this thread apply to the tables on the jointer, scroll saw, drill press and band saw, as well. All of them are rust prone surfaces and require frequent attention. Oh, yeah, the lathe bed and lathe tools, too.

Going off on a slight tangent, the single best overall thing I have done is insulate the shop and install a window A/C. From Amazon I got some little digital temperature and humidity devices. I keep them sitting around in the shop area, and on the porch outside. When it is 85% humidity outside, I will usually see only about 55-65 % in the shop (of course depending on the temperature). I try not to look too closely at the electric bill associated with this approach, but I figure that little unit is costing about $35/mo for 7 or 8 months of the year. It would have been futile without insulting and enclosing the walls and ceiling. I do love walking in to a cooler space, and seeing some shiny surfaces.


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## Wado (May 15, 2011)

I worked in a machine shop down here on the coast and we fought rust until the shop was closed up and air conditioned. The owner did this also to have a constant temperature so parts we produced were measured at the same temperature year round. This ended a lot of problems. Our end of day routine was shop vac the machines then wipe down with rags and spray the cast iron with WD 40. The lathe ways were coated with way oil and the milling machine quills were extended fully and oiled with you got it, quill oil. All polishing was done with bronze wool and scotch brite pads. Most of the coolants had rust inhibitors and that helps. In a wood working shop this would work for long term storage but is too messy for every day use. I don't use my joiner much so it gets the oil treatment then has to be cleaned and waxed before I use it. I don't know how but my planer rusts even covered and oiled. Everybody wants to set stuff on my table saw so I used to grease it up and then spend an hour cleaning it so I just started coating it heavy with wax and not wiping it. Don't use silicone dry lubes although I have done it. It can give you some problems in the finish. One of my friends has a complete furniture shop at his place and he uses something they spray on airplane windows to coat his machines. Is this the T9? Sounds like a bunch of good suggestions from everybody. As for setting stuff on the saw all the time just do what this fellow I worked with does, push it all on the floor and kick it out the door and scream "WE HAVE TABLES FOR THAT" he really is a nice guy.


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