# Kiritimati Island Fishing Adventure



## Meadowlark (Jul 19, 2008)

A journey of 10,000 miles came down to an additional 50 feetâ€¦the distance that separated my fly from the trophy GT (Giant Trevally) that was cruising down one of the numerous sand flats of the stunning Kiritimati Island (also known as Christmas Island).

Kiritimati Island is one of the â€œLine Islandsâ€ of Kiribati that run both north and south of the equator in an area of the Pacific about 1200 miles south of Hawaii. It has the largest land area of any coral atoll in the Worldâ€¦by any measure it is huge.

The island got its name from its discovery by Capt. James Cook on Christmas Eve in 1777. Christmas became Kiritimati which is pronounced roughly as â€œkee-rees-massâ€ in the local Glibertese language of the native people.

The island is positioned just west of the International Date Line and as a result is the first inhabited island to begin each new day and year. 
â€œTo see the new break of the dayâ€¦â€








 The above video gives an excellent perspective on Kiritimati Island including debunking the global warming claims of the island sinking into non-inhabitable status, an overview of the nuclear testing effects, the tuna fishing that is heavily impacting the environment of the island, and the people and how they view life. They are a truly remarkable people, totally unique to me. Hard to describe because they are so different from our heritage.

It is one of the most remote places on Earthâ€¦and also one of the poorest. To get there from Houston, you must schedule your arrival in Honolulu in advance of the once weekly flight to Kiritimati. Miss that flight opportunity and you will wait one week before getting another oneâ€¦likewise, departing the island you have one opportunity a weekâ€¦and if the weather is bad, you wait a week and try again.

It is not a place for everyone, but for the adventurous angler, it is a place where trophy GTâ€™s on the fly (those over 30 pounds) are a legitimate possibility.

So whatâ€™s special about a GT? They are a powerful predator that stalks the flats for unsuspecting fish. Faster than any other flats fish or fish that an angler can take by sight fishing. Certainly more powerful than any other flats fish in my experience.

Watch how these GTâ€™s suddenly appear and terrorize these bait fish: 




They can destroy all but the most rigorous fly fishing tackle as well as strike fear into the hearts of seasoned guides who see them suddenly appear on a flat and disappear just as quickly.

I talked to guides of over 20 years who say that no matter how many times you have seen them appear, your heart skips beats in the excitement of watching the supreme flats predator in action.

I tried to prepare for this encounter by rigging a 12 wt rod with a high quality reel and a drag system that can withstand a fish ripping straight 130 pound test leader and special GT fly line and backing just like it was nothing. The drag is so heavy when tight that you cannot manually strip line out to cast without considerably lessening the dragâ€¦but the GT can rip out 300 yards faster that you can believe with that drag fully tightened. They will break any rod made on that first run, unless you point it at the fish.

So, you have the right equipment, have endured the hardships of traveling the 10,000 miles, and now need only to deliver the big brush fly out 50 feet in the vicinity of the fast approaching predator. It isnâ€™t easy.

The guide yells â€œGT, GT, GT !!! â€œ moving right to left, 50 feet CAST NOW, CAST NOW, CAST NOW, and then excitedly says â€œlet it sinkâ€ followed by an electrifying â€œSTRIP! STRIP! STRIP!â€ faster, fasterâ€¦and then you see your line start flying off the drag tightened reel in the wake left by the fleeing GT. You must hope and pray that somehow the fish does not cut you off on the wicked coral that is everywhere or completely strips the 400 yards of backing from your reel or somehow otherwise eludes your grasp.

No question this fish is everything that has been said and written about them...and more. It lives up to and exceeds everything you have heard about them.

This one came in at an estimated 32 pounds...they get much larger. I can't imagine what a 100 pound class fish could do.

I will add some photos of other GT's, Bluefins, other species later in another post...but for now will leave this one with a great fish:


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## Bruce J (Jun 27, 2004)

Love me some Kirimati. Been there three times since the first trip in 1996. Lots of great stories and memories for me and both sons.


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## Permit Rat (May 13, 2014)

Super post, Meadowlark. Since fishing in Mexico and having caught 30 lb. class crevalles in less than 3 ft. of water (they'll put equally large fish hooked in deep water to shame) I now have a renewed respect for the GT species and can only imagine what they'd be like. I wonder if a fish approaching 100 lbs. is even doable on fly...or any tackle for that matter.


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## Meadowlark (Jul 19, 2008)

Rat,

My opinion is yes, if hooked and/or fought out of a boat, a 100 pound class GT would be possible. On foot, on the sand, no it would be very unlikely that any fly angler could land a 100 pound class GT. 

On a "lark", I spent about 2 hours the last afternoon trolling for GT's on the fly...and raised a 100 pound class GT. They are definitely there...for the adventurous angler to take a shot at...and I will be doing that in the future, God willing and the creeks don't rise. .


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## Permit Rat (May 13, 2014)

Meadowlark said:


> Rat,
> 
> My opinion is yes, if hooked and/or fought out of a boat, a 100 pound class GT would be possible. On foot, on the sand, no it would be very unlikely that any fly angler could land a 100 pound class GT.
> 
> On a "lark", I spent about 2 hours the last afternoon trolling for GT's on the fly...and raised a 100 pound class GT. They are definitely there...for the adventurous angler to take a shot at...and I will be doing that in the future, God willing and the creeks don't rise. .


 Oh yeah, a boat would almost be a necessity. I hear these fish head out to the drop-off after being hooked and once there your fly line would be history. So you'd need a boat to give chase and prevent that. Did you destroy any lines on the coral? How many would you suggest bringing for a week-long trip? Also, did you sample any of the bonefish opportunities there?

LOL....I saw the preparation of some small fish in the video and at first thought they were bonefish....turned out they were a species of goatfish, but I wouldn't be surprised if they ate bonefish. The Bahamians love them.


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## Meadowlark (Jul 19, 2008)

Permit Rat said:


> Oh yeah, a boat would almost be a necessity. I hear these fish head out to the drop-off after being hooked and once there your fly line would be history. So you'd need a boat to give chase and prevent that. Did you destroy any lines on the coral? How many would you suggest bringing for a week-long trip? Also, did you sample any of the bonefish opportunities there?
> 
> ....


Exactly. If there is any deep water nearby, they will head straight for it. There is an area of surf fishing there...called "the Wreck" where the surf breaks over a deep reef onto more shallow coral/sand. Every GT you hook there will immediately head for the reef. I cast to a 60 pounder there but didn't connect...but pretty sure he would have taken fly line and most everything else if hooked. Awesome fish, just awesome.

I did take one extra 12 wt line but didn't need it. I did need my backup 12 wt rod...lost the primary to a #**%* ceiling fan in the room.

Bonefish there were numerous, plentiful but disappointingly small ...2- 4 pounds. I'll make another post soon on some of the other fishes there...pretty interesting place.


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## Meadowlark (Jul 19, 2008)

*The Island*

1) the island as seen from space...notice the huge lagoon with miles and miles of flats teeming with fish

2) sunset

3) camp

4) local dancing girl...cute as buttons

5) welcome

6) bird island...doesn't every body of water have their "bird island"?...and isn't it ALWAYS loaded with good fish?

While there a tragedy struck...a rogue wave lifting some 35 feet took a small truck with 4 local people to their deaths. They were unloading container cargo on a pier. The tragedy touched the lives of everyone in this small community. Very sad.

It did serve to emphasize that this island isn't for everyone...it is very difficult to live and survive here. Life is very hard for most...and visitors beware, this isn't a typical Bahamas type of paradise for the visitor. It isn't called the most remote place on Earth for no reason.


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## Permit Rat (May 13, 2014)

What are the wind conditions like? In the video, it was always more than just a breeze...I'd say 20+. But in both your photos, it looks quite manageable.

On a side note, seeing as you just got back, you weren't there for the annual (Spring?) red crab migration, which I understand is something to behold.


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## Meadowlark (Jul 19, 2008)

Permit Rat said:


> What are the wind conditions like? In the video, it was always more than just a breeze...I'd say 20+. But in both your photos, it looks quite manageable.
> 
> On a side note, seeing as you just got back, you weren't there for the annual (Spring?) red crab migration, which I understand is something to behold.


Wind conditions: Marginal to outright dangerous

On two separate nights we had tropical storm force winds, possibly gusting to near hurricane force. One boat (local fishing boat) capsized and sank one day we were out. Two nights of the big storms I had two inches of water in my room...from wind driven rain. This is not a place for the casual inexperienced angler. Perhaps the El Nina explains the turbulent weather we experienced.

As an aside, just before we arrived, a prior group was stranded in Hawaii because the incoming airplane could not land on Kiritimati because of bad weather and turned back to Fiji. This not only screwed those guys in Hawaii, but also stranded the group trying to leave Kiritimati Island. They were forced to wait a week for the next airplane ride opportunity. Did I mention this isn't a place for the casual, inexperienced angler?

The clouds and wind obviously made fishing difficult...but you deal with it...or you fail totally. "They" recommend fishing with an 8 wt for everything except the GT's...but I migrated to a 10 wt and found it to be far superior in the wind conditions. I'd guess I doubled or tripled the number of bonefish others were catching on 8 wts...simply because I could place the fly where I wanted/needed in any wind direction.

By the way, I discovered, after a harrowing, pounding boat ride one day and after learning that another local fishing boat capsized and sank, that they did not carry life jackets. I refused to go out again on a boat without life jackets...and they somehow found some life jackets. It is my policy that I will not knowingly go out on any boat without a life jacket on board. It is foolish, IMO, to do otherwise.

Red Crabs? There are two Christmas Islands, I've discovered. One with the famous red crab migration is off the coast of Australia to the north east in the Indian Ocean. Kiritimati is in the southern Pacific Ocean...but has a red crab, LOL. I discovered a silver dollar sized one in my bed one night...likely escaping the tropical storm outside.


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## Permit Rat (May 13, 2014)

Meadowlark said:


> Red Crabs? There are two Christmas Islands, I've discovered. One with the famous red crab migration is off the coast of Australia to the north east in the Indian Ocean. Kiritimati is in the southern Pacific Ocean...but has a red crab, LOL. I discovered a silver dollar sized one in my bed one night...likely escaping the tropical storm outside.


 You're right and I realized that, after I posted but it was too late to edit. You are on an atoll....very low elevation and not much land mass. The Christmas Island with the red crabs, is (I think) volcanic in origin and has much more/higher land mass.


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## karstopo (Jun 29, 2009)

Great report. I'm now convinced I'd be perfectly at home there from your report. When and if I ever run away for good, this might be the place. I've hooked one big jack crevelle in the surf on a fly and that gave me a serious case of buck fever. I probably would just fall over dead with an encounter with a GT.


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## Meadowlark (Jul 19, 2008)

Karstopo,

Someone asked me, perhaps with not a little indigence, "why would anyone go to all that trouble to just catch a jack fish? "

I've caught hundreds of jack fish...and let me tell you Karstopo, the GT is nothing like any jack fish I have ever caught...or for that matter unlike any fish I have ever caught on the flats anywhere in the World.

It is absolutely everything that has been written about it...and more, much more.


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## Unbound (Jul 12, 2004)

Wow! Looks like a great trip. Thanks for sharing. Looking forward to the rest of your story.


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## Meadowlark (Jul 19, 2008)

Some folks have asked...

Fly Water Travel coordinated this trip and Brian Gies hosted the trip and was absolutely outstanding and totally professional. Problems are going to come up on a trip like this. You can count on it, and it is such a great thing to have a pro like Brian there to take them on. 

Another recommendation...I took a sat phone with me and was totally glad I did. Absolutely zero communications on the island. Andy Cool of Explorer Satellite Communications provided the service and it was outstanding. By the way, this is a place you do not want to go without a medical evacuation plan. Global rescue provided that for me...and I highly recommend them. 

We stayed at Crystal Beach Hotel. The guides that Brian and Fly Water Travel use are among the very best I have ever had the pleasure of fishing with. They were from top to bottom very qualified. Their vision was spectacular and for the most part, their demeanor was calm, cool, and collected....something you very much need from a GT guide.


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## Meadowlark (Jul 19, 2008)

I need to add my thanks to Will Johnson of the Ashland Fly Shop ,
www.ashlandflyshop.com ,  for his technical assistance. It was invaluable and exactly on point.


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## sjrobin (Oct 1, 2009)

Sounds like fun. Were you able to fish from a flats skiff or did the outfitter have any poling skiffs available? Also did you sightcast any other species? How many shots did you get each day on average? Just trying to get an idea of the numbers of fish on the fifty miles of flats. So Meadowlark, I guess the Coral Sea long range trips are next .


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## Meadowlark (Jul 19, 2008)

Sjrobin,

The fishing is all wadefishing...you, the fish, and the water. No poling or flats skiffs.

The guides drop each angler off on a particular flat...and then you walk/wade until the guide radios them to pick you up (or you collapse from fatigue if you are too out of shape, LOL). There is no, zero, prop scarring going on there. They are very careful to avoid any coral damage...something we could learn from here. 

Yes, just about anything that we could see, other than the blacktip sharks, the milkfish which were prolific, and the baitfish which were thick in many areas, I cast to including numerous trigger fish and some of the species shown in the other thread. 

Shots each day...on bones too numerous to count. Seriously, its almost continuous shots on bones. Triggers, I'd say probably as many as ten shots a day. The sweet lips weren't as prevalent... if you caught more than 1 a day it was virtually unheard of. One day I caught something like 7 of the sweet lips one afternoon, something that no one could ever remember happening. The guide persuaded me to keep four of them for camp dinner that night claiming they were an island delicacy. They really weren't, IMO, LOL.

The main event, of course, for me was the GT's. I got 1 good shot at a 60 pound class GT for the week and did not connect...a fish I shall forever remember. I did connect on every GT I got a shot at between 15 and the 32 pounds and for the week there were four of them in that class not counting the one we trolled up on the fly. I did not miss or loose any of those fish ( of course not counting if they were running as doubles or triples which increased your odds dramatically). Each day, I got probably three to five additional shots at smaller GT's and bluefin trevallys. One legitimate shot at a very nice and somewhat rare golden trevally that simply would not eat remains a source of disappointment for me...probably a 15 pound class fish. 

Fifty miles of flats? Not sure where you got that number...but seriously I think it was much more. Flying in over the island it was remarkable how huge the flats are...final approach was completely all over flats water, incredible, simply incredible. It isn't identified as the largest atoll in the world for nothing...something well in excess of 250 square miles. 

Here's the sweet lips that became dinner....by the way we also had milkfish one evening also and it was outstanding table fare. 

We rigged up a stringer out of mono to carry the four fish back to camp. The locals were delighted...but my camp pardners didn't say much, LOL.

Thank you for your comments/interest.


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## karstopo (Jun 29, 2009)

Gosh, that is great. Dropped off, no guide barking in your ear. Sign me up.


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## Meadowlark (Jul 19, 2008)

Karstopo,

Please let me clarify what I said about being dropped off....you are dropped off on a flat with a local guide. He has the ability to see fish which I could only dream of having. In those overcast conditions we had every day, the guides could see fish I simply could not. It was stunning. Further, each guide had a knowledge of the fishery based on a lifetime of fishing there that I could never have.

These guides were exceptional and I have nothing but the highest respect for them. Yes, they carried your extra rod which normally would be a 12 wt for GT's and they provided a margin of safety...but their vision and knowledge was simply exceptional. They never criticized, never. They always tried to help the angler. They were just excellent.


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## Permit Rat (May 13, 2014)

Would like to hear more about the milkfish.......how well they took a fly; how well they fought; and also what they were like as table fare. I didn't know they were so good to eat. Somewhere I have a picture of milkfish feeding on a flat off western Australia. Those tails look just like a school of permit in the Keys.


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## Meadowlark (Jul 19, 2008)

The milkfish were an interesting surprise. I wasn't aware they were in that area in those kind of numbers. They were much like our mullet in both numbers, appearance, and feeding patterns...in fact I'm curious now if they aren't somehow related. 

On the flats, they were ubiquitous appearing to look like bones but higher in the water column. Some flats were literally teaming with them. I learned to distinguish them from bones by how they would swim at the top/near the top of the water column near the surface. Like our mullet, they would not take a bone fish fly. Some said they could be caught on an algae imitation fly but didn't try that. 

They actually raise milkfish in ponds there for eating. Apparently the ones raised in ponds are good to eat whereas the wild ones are not. We had them grilled over coconut hulls one evening and they were absolutely delicious. 

I suspect the milkfish are one of the primary targets of the GT's...in fact I saw GT's absolutely terrorizing them on occasion.


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## sjrobin (Oct 1, 2009)

A great adventure but would be so much better visuals from a quiet poling skiff. No prospecting casts.


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## Meadowlark (Jul 19, 2008)

To each their own...personally I love being in the water with the fish. In fact if they had poling skiffs, which no one there has, I would insist on in the water fishing and no skifs...much better stealth, far better on the flats environment, and stealth trumps everything else on the flats....just my opinion. 

I did not make a single, not a single one, blind cast all week...every cast was to target sighted fish. Remember, the fish will see you long before you see them in a skiff...and in that clear water, GT's are especially wary. Each time we spotted one, we hunched down, way down to avoid detection. Again, just my opinion.


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## sjrobin (Oct 1, 2009)

I respect your more traditional fly fishing while wading approach. A great method and good exercise. I am 6'4" and I can see a lot more fish and cast a lot further from a skiff than I can while wading, kind of like Brad Pitt standing on a rock casting above the Madison in a River Runs Through It. Just my opinion. Not comparing myself to Brad.


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## Meadowlark (Jul 19, 2008)

LOL, this isn't a river....this is gin clear water sometimes 2 or 3 inches deep with tailing bones with backs sticking out of the water...not going to pole there...and every fish will spook long before you get a shot at them from any skiff....but appreciate your interest.


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## Danny O (Apr 14, 2010)

What a great experience for you Larry. Your report is exceptional. So much so that it might be more adventurous than this gal can handle! Congrats on a great GT catch!


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## Ready.Fire.Aim (Sep 22, 2009)

I appreciate you sharing this adventure. Green to you sir.


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## Meadowlark (Jul 19, 2008)

Pet Spoon said:


> What a great experience for you Larry. Your report is exceptional. So much so that it might be more adventurous than this gal can handle! Congrats on a great GT catch!


Thanks PS, I really appreciate your comments.

I'm going to guess that having a red crab in bed wake you up from a deep sleep and/or step out to 2 inches of water in your room in a tropical storm in the middle of the night might be considered "more adventurous", LOL...but on the bright side, it was very warm all the time.


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## hog_down (Jan 11, 2010)

Awesome report!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## boomer21 (Dec 28, 2015)

ML, sounds like an incredible trip. An associate of mine went two years ago and had challenges with GT due to (at least in his view) alot of chumming going on to attract the GT's by other guides. Did you see that as an issue? 

That's on my list of places to go. I'm a dedicated fly caster, but I've chummed up plenty of a variety of species in the Sea of Cortez and other places.

I ask the question strictly out of curiosity. Again, sounds like a great trip!


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## fishinganimal (Mar 30, 2006)

Simply awesome Larry. I will just close my eyes and dream about that trip. Wow. I will have to stick with Alaska. And Galveston Yellowfin!!! LOL


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## Meadowlark (Jul 19, 2008)

boomer21 said:


> ML, sounds like an incredible trip. An associate of mine went two years ago and had challenges with GT due to (at least in his view) alot of chumming going on to attract the GT's by other guides. Did you see that as an issue?
> 
> That's on my list of places to go. I'm a dedicated fly caster, but I've chummed up plenty of a variety of species in the Sea of Cortez and other places.
> 
> I ask the question strictly out of curiosity. Again, sounds like a great trip!


Boomer21,

Good question. No, no chumming, absolutely none by our group....and I wasn't aware of any other groups chumming either while I was there. I could see how chumming could pull the GT's out of specific areas and detract from the fishing for those not chumming.

The guides I talked with about the tactic said it really was not all that effective on the flats anyway...but around deep water, especially any wrecks or structure, it can be very effective...but it was my impression they aren't using that tactic anymore, or certainly very little.

Personally, I'm glad we didn't chum and/or see anyone chumming...this was traditional, old school wade fishing using all of your stealth and angling skills to find and catch GT's. When a GT goes HOT for your fly, it is unlike any angling experience I've ever had or seen. Nothing, absolutely nothing compares.

When your trip approaches, I'll be glad to help any way I can...not that I'm an expert, far from it, but know just enough to be dangerous.

Thanks for your interest.

p.s. Ever chummed up a roosterfish in the Baja? I have and it is an effective technique there. The rooster is a great, great fish...but honestly, does not hold a candle to a hot GT.


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## Meadowlark (Jul 19, 2008)

fishinganimal said:


> Simply awesome Larry. I will just close my eyes and dream about that trip. Wow. I will have to stick with Alaska. And Galveston Yellowfin!!! LOL


Absolutely nothing wrong with those options, fishinganimal.

Thanks for your interest.


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## Permit Rat (May 13, 2014)

Meadowlark said:


> The guides I talked with about the tactic said it [chumming] really was not all that effective on the flats anyway...but around deep water, especially any wrecks or structure, it can be very effective...but it was my impression they aren't using that tactic anymore, or certainly very little.
> 
> p.s. Ever chummed up a roosterfish in the Baja? I have and it is an effective technique there. The rooster is a great, great fish...but honestly, does not hold a candle to a hot GT.


 Interesting about the reported ineffectiveness of chumming GTs on the flats. Permit are just another jack and don't respond to chum on the flats either. But out in deep water, off reefs or wrecks, they glom it up and are suckers for just about anything you throw at them. This is too bad because I honestly feel it detracts from the glamor of catching permit...not to mention the fact that unknowing anglers who might go to Key West and catch a bunch of permit off the reef, really think they have accomplished something and put themselves up there with those who have done the same on the flats. Sorry, uh-uh. Anyway, I'm sure it would be the same for anyone catching GTs via chumming off the reefs in deep water.

Speaking of which, I too have caught the roosterfish and no, they don't fight any harder (maybe less) than a crevalle. But that was deep water too. I wonder what a big rooster would do if you hooked it in 3 ft. of water. Just sayin'.

If you think about it, there isn't a gamefish in the world that lives on the flats. They go there, either to feed, or they cross a flat as a shortcut from one feeding area to another. IMO, I don't think they really enjoy being there and this is why they are always on their guard (spooky) and are more finicky when it comes to eating. GTs certainly fit that description, along with all the other "flats" species.


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## Meadowlark (Jul 19, 2008)

Agree Rat, a Permit, any Permit caught on the flats on the fly is something to be very proud of. I'd say likewise for the GT.

The small GT's seem to be on the flats all the time on Kiritimati. The larger ones love to hang out in deep channels and cuts and strike in ambush at unwary fish on the flats. I found the 15 pound class GT especially loves to hang out around/under overhangs/shelves during incoming tide. The picture I posted has such a shelf in the background at low tide. 

The larger GT's like 60 pounds and up seem to never be far from deep water. Anyone going to the island should go at least one day to the "wreck" where the surf breaks over a deep water reef in about the third bar or so. The big GT's our group saw would come out of those deep waters on incoming tide and work in less than 2 feet of water...but very, very spooky. If I were chumming, and again I did not do that, it would be the place to do it...and very easy to catch plenty of chum. 

Dang, I get all fired up just thinking about those big GT's...what a remarkable fish.


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## boomer21 (Dec 28, 2015)

I'm glad to hear that practice is slowing or hopefully going away all together. Looks like Christmas Island moves up on the to-do list.

Yes, i have chummed up a few roosters in Baja. Roosters, dorado, sails and everything else make Baja an awesome overall experience in my view. 

ML, thanks for the info!!


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## big D. (Apr 10, 2010)

Congrats on the GT! Awesome report!


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## ahistick (Aug 31, 2007)

Congrats on a great trip and Thank you for the report!

Headed there in May!


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