# Suggestions for Aluminum Tunnel Hull



## Caveman (Jul 21, 2004)

Now that duck season is over I am thinking about selling my 14 foot aluminum duck boat. I have been running this boat for the last two seasons and would like to move up to something a little larger and something with a tunnel.

Any suggestion on an aluminum tunnel hull boat would be appreciated. I'm leaning toward a Sea Ark 1660 tunnel. I like the idea of a 60 inch bottom on a 16 foot boat! I would consider an 1860 (like alumacraft) but would rather stay in the 16 foot/50hp range if I can find the right boat. 

How deep does the tunnel need to be on an aluminum jon boat? I have seen several models with tunnels as shallow as three inches. Doesn't seem like you would gain much from a three inch tunnel??? I'd appreciate performance reports from owners and any tips on getting the boat set up right.

I run a 19 foot Blue Wave for fishing, so shallow water performance and huntability are my concerns here. I do plan on rigging it with a four stroke or e-tec. I'll also add a boat blind from Cabelas as I did my 14 footer. Those blinds are easy to install and work great. 

Caveman


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## KG2 (Nov 15, 2006)

I saw a new seaark 16' with an etec, and it looked awesome, it looked like it ran real smooth through the little chop.
I dont know what Im sayng really other than it looked cool, and flew through the water.


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## jjtroutkiller (Jan 28, 2005)

We have run Sea Ark, Xpress and Gator Trax tunnels and did not have good luck with the Sea Ark but could have been an isolated case. I am currently running a 1650 Xpress with a 50hp Tohatsu during duck season and the only complaint is that the rear seat is too far forward for a tiller steer motor.


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## BigBay420 (Jun 20, 2005)

1860 spl alumacraft with tunnel and floatation http://www.alumacraft.com/jonboats_18.html
I had itfor two years and love it.


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## fishnfurlife (May 9, 2006)

I have a G3 1860 no tunnel. I bought from Bob Strickland at C&S Outboard in Crosby. Great boat. Bob sells hundreds of G3's and Alumacrafts every year. He sells packaged or he will customize for your taste. He actually helped design the tunnel version for G3. Either way he has both...check him out www.csoutboard.com


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## capn (Aug 11, 2005)

Weldcraft and Southfork make the best tunnel hulls that I've come across. Most of the others feel like cookie cutter style boats and end up with the problems typical of cookie cutter style boats, even though they all can end up nice boats if rigged out properly. For example, I really don't care for the way C&S outfits their Alumacrafts. Pearland Marine does a pretty nice job though.

One thing with the tunnel, don't underpower your boat. A 1660 with a 50hp is almost surely underpowered (a 1650 is a much lighter boat that is better suited for a 50). It's especially imortant for a duck hunter not to underpower since we typically end up carrying very heavy loads.


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## topwtr#1 (Sep 27, 2005)

Custom flats out of Louisiana. Tim's Marine. Makes flats boats, john boats and scooter boats


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## Topwater blowup (Feb 20, 2006)

I run a Sea Ark 1625 tunnel with a 40 hp johnson tiller handle and electric start and tilt (manual tilt will kill you), the secret is the large pontoons that are welded on the back of the motor. I have had my boat since 2003 and have not had any problems with it. Will run in virtually 3 inches of water when on plane. with 4 people and full of gear the boat will still run 30 mph.


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## Chunkn' Charlie (Dec 30, 2004)

I am a boatright man. I have a 19' 66" tunnel. This boat exceeded all of my expectations. It's dry, it's smooth and runs shallow. It does everything I want it to do except go fast. (38 mph wot)

They ain't cheap but they have one of the highest resale values of any boat on the market.

I have a family of 4 and it's a great family boat. plent of room for me to untangle lines while the wife and kids are casting. (we could have a 50' boat and they would still get tangled.)

The boat gets up in less than a foot of water (with a good prop. mine is a little worn). 

The only time we get wet is if the waves come over the bow, but aside from that, it's a suprisingly dry ride. For a flat bottom the boat has a suprisingly smooth ride.

As for hunting, the whole top side is deck. It will not be hard to set up an avery quick blind on it and hunt any where with it.

I don't get any kickback from boatright. I am truely in love with this boat. But is\f Glenn want to send a few bucks my way, that's OK too.


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## capn (Aug 11, 2005)

Boatwright and Empire are both VERY solid boats, top of the line for aluminum. Be careful about getting a boat that is too heavy though. I need a boat that two guys can push when we get stuck (notice I said when instead of if), you might be in the same situation. If you get a boat that is too heavy, you might be left waiting for the tide to come in, or for another boat to pull you off a stump. Duck hunters have different needs than fishermen!


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## jjtroutkiller (Jan 28, 2005)

Topwater blowup said:


> I run a Sea Ark 1625 tunnel with a 40 hp johnson tiller handle and electric start and tilt (manual tilt will kill you), the secret is the large pontoons that are welded on the back of the motor. I have had my boat since 2003 and have not had any problems with it. Will run in virtually 3 inches of water when on plane. with 4 people and full of gear the boat will still run 30 mph.


WOW, I bet that sucker will flat out get it with a 25" bottom.:rotfl:


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## Chunkn' Charlie (Dec 30, 2004)

capn said:


> Boatwright and Empire are both VERY solid boats, top of the line for aluminum. Be careful about getting a boat that is too heavy though. I need a boat that two guys can push when we get stuck (notice I said when instead of if), you might be in the same situation. If you get a boat that is too heavy, you might be left waiting for the tide to come in, or for another boat to pull you off a stump. Duck hunters have different needs than fishermen!


Oh how many nights has my baby spent alone.


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## Stumpgrinder (Feb 18, 2006)

I ran an 18 alumacraft , tunnel w/pontoons for a while (75 hp merc) and it was a really nice rig. That thing flew onto plane and would run scary shallow.


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## hellonwater (Dec 17, 2005)

I run an Alumacraft 1860T CC w/sponsons 90HP Yamaha, Bob's jackplate, like the performance an the ability to run in shallow marsh area's


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## TheGoose (Jan 22, 2006)

Capn:
What don't you like about their (C&S) boats? PM me if you like.

A big tunnel is not necessary, all it does is channel water to the prop when you're on plane going through shallow water. You will also need a prop plate (nedski, whale tail, etc). Sponsons (boxes on the back) are great for these types of boats.

One thing these type of boats will not do well is back up and turn. Do not attempt to turn in these boats at high speed, and your motor will need to be trimmed way down to get decent reverse.



capn said:


> Weldcraft and Southfork make the best tunnel hulls that I've come across. Most of the others feel like cookie cutter style boats and end up with the problems typical of cookie cutter style boats, even though they all can end up nice boats if rigged out properly. For example, I really don't care for the way C&S outfits their Alumacrafts. Pearland Marine does a pretty nice job though.
> 
> One thing with the tunnel, don't underpower your boat. A 1660 with a 50hp is almost surely underpowered (a 1650 is a much lighter boat that is better suited for a 50). It's especially imortant for a duck hunter not to underpower since we typically end up carrying very heavy loads.


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## OxbowOutfitters (Feb 17, 2006)

AlumaCraft..
I had a 1956 AlumaCraft with Twin 25's..3 generations strong & still goin today.
Oxx


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## TimOub007 (Jun 10, 2005)

capn said:


> Weldcraft and Southfork make the best tunnel hulls that I've come across.


I have to agree with capn on the two boats he mentioned. To get the best boat to run the marshes you really need to speak with someone in Louisianna. For these boats, contact Jerry's Marine in Sulphur, LA. I'd bet he sells more of these than anyone between Houston and Crowley.

I wonder what width bottom you're going to be running. Are you going to need to navigate narrow ditches with tight turns? That is what we deal with in the marshes local to Sabine. If you go wider than 48-50 inches or longer than 16 feet you can start to have issues. I used to run a 16/48 tin tunnel boat before I built my new one last year.

You probably won't really need float boxes or sponsons unless you plan on hanging a really heavy motor off the transom. Those only hinder you once you're up and running. I have several friends that cut theirs off due to the negatives of them. If you're not worried about static draft, then you don't need them. A 40 horse or more will have plenty of power to chew through a little mud and jump up on plane. If you can't get up, get a set of Smart Tabs. I just put some on my home built (since I'm running a 25) and my bow doesn't even rise when I hammer the throttle. For about $100 they are completely worth it.

As for tunnel design, here are some typical things to look for. The width should be no greater than one inch more than the prop diameter. I.E., if you're spinning a prop with a 11" diameter, you don't need a tunnel wider than 12". You also don't need a tunnel deeper than 5-6 inches. Anymore will just slow you down by reducing the planing area.

There are several of us on the board that have built boats, and we've figured a lot of this out through trial and error. Ask more questions if you got 'em.

Tim


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## CAPSIZED (Aug 10, 2004)

I've owned 4 aluminum boats. Only one was a tunnel, it was a slug and didnt run any shallower than the others. Drive both before you buy.


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## Caveman (Jul 21, 2004)

*Thanks for the info*

Thanks for the info guys. I'd really like to get this boat set up correctly the first time. 



Capn - I agree with you on not under powering a boat. The Sea Ark 1660 is only rated for a 50hp. That was one of my concerns as well. The hull weighs 475 lbs vs. 345 lbs for the 1652 which is rated for 45 hp. The 1660 is 130 lbs heavier, but how much shallower might it float/run? 



JJTroutkiller - What problems did you have with Sea Ark?



Tim - Thanks for the info on tunnel dims. I had read the same thing. From what I can tell a 50 hp usually turns a 10.5 - 11 inch prop. Tunnel should be about 12 inches x 5 inches for good performance, correct? The ditches on the Pace Tract at Anahuac NWR are as tight as I would need to run. I have had my Blue Wave in most of them, so I don't think an extra foot of bottom will be an issue. There are a few tight turns that I might not be able to take on plane with a tunnel hull, but those tight turns are in deeper ditches.



As I plan on hunting from the boat, space is an issue, as is shallow draft at rest because I often drag the boat up to a shoreline to hunt. 



Charlie - I'd love to be a boatright man as well! I checked one out in POC this past weekend. If I were looking for a larger, multi-purpose aluminum skiff, there would be no decision. I'm sure I will fish from this new boat, but first and foremost, it's a duck boat. It needs to be light enough for two of us to drag off a shoreline when the tide falls out.



I looked at a Sea Ark 1652 tunnel in POC this weekend as well. The tunnel wasn't symmetric at all. Built on a Friday?



Thanks again for the info. Lots of alumacraft fans here.


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## capn (Aug 11, 2005)

Caveman said:


> Capn - I agree with you on not under powering a boat. The Sea Ark 1660 is only rated for a 50hp. That was one of my concerns as well. The hull weighs 475 lbs vs. 345 lbs for the 1652 which is rated for 45 hp. The 1660 is 130 lbs heavier, but how much shallower might it float/run?


Are you looking at a riveted hull, or one with thin aluminum? Those HP ratings sound really low, and if it's due to a thin or riveted boat, stay away. All riveted boats leak eventually, and thin boats will bust welds.

I run a 50hp on a Weldcraft 1752, and it is underpowered when fully loaded. But, it will float in spit (well, about 3-4 inches of spit) because it sits more level than any boat I've ever seen. It's rated for a 60, and I wouldn't mind having a 70 except that I'm not sure I could handle the tiller and don't want to install a console. I have no problem getting on plane, but I need that extra oomph on the thottle to push thru the really skinny stuff when I am loaded down. With just two guys in the boat, I'll be out run, but I can make it do lots that other tunnels can't do.

The 1660 will probably float shallower with the same load due to more displaced water. It will plane quick, but won't go as fast or be nearly as reactive while on plane. With the added weight you are losing strength at the top end, particularly when you have a load.

Also, there are canals on the Pace tract that I have have a hard time making in my boat. A buddie's 1860 can't make it to a few of the ponds I manage to get into.


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## Stuart (May 21, 2004)

I know a kid here in Lake Jackson with a Weldcraft tunnel, 16 footer I believe. Not sure of the bottom width. When he is not in school he is duck hunting or fishing. He has a 40 E-TEC tiller on it and has given it heck. Now he is selling the E-TEC and gettin a mud motor.


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## capn (Aug 11, 2005)

Oh, and make sure and get a vented tunnel. Big difference.


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## Caveman (Jul 21, 2004)

*Vented Tunnel?*

Capn-

Looking at a Sea Ark welded .100 in hull. I can't imagine why they rate them so low. The 1860 is only rated for a 60hp!

http://www.seaarkboats.com/boat.php?measure=Standard&boat=1660MVT

Sounds like the 1660 is not a good idea if it's only rated for a 50hp. I'd like to have the space, but not at the cost of performance.

What is a vented tunnel?


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## capn (Aug 11, 2005)

It's a vent in the tunnel that allows air to circulate in the tunnel to prevent a suction forming. The suction that forms in a non-vented tunnel can really bog a boat down and actually make it ride a little lower. Makes it harder to turn, and I've actually seen a boat where if you turned hard it really wanted to flip over. The vent frees the suction up and makes it much more responsive.

I would do some research and figure out why they are rated so low. Most welded boat makers will rate their 1860's for 90hp. Heavy boats like Empire and Boatwright could make 115hp.

I would seriously recommend looking at either Weldcraft or Southfork and getting the boat made exactly like you want it. If you are close, you're welcome to take a look at mine.


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## Caveman (Jul 21, 2004)

*Could it be???*

Could it be that Sea Ark only lists ratings for tiller steer?


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## capn (Aug 11, 2005)

It's possible? I dunno. They list consoles and remote steering equipment in their options.


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## metal man (Mar 30, 2006)

If you want a boat that will last you a lifetime go see Boatright in Friendswood.


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## yakfishin (Dec 8, 2005)

2007 Tracker 1860 tunnel w/ a 90 hp two stroke 2005. For $13,995.00 just wanted to let ya'll know as a comparrison. Good luck with your search.
Yakfishin


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## TimOub007 (Jun 10, 2005)

*vented tunnel and hp ratings*

The vented tunnel is somewhat of a mystery.

While I sort of agree with what capn wrote, that is not always the case. You only see vented tunnels in aluminum boats, never in fiberglass ones.

Think about this:
With 22,677 members (at present) there are probably 5,000 (+/- 4,000) tunnel boat owners on this site. I know that my Scout's tunnel is not vented and none of the Majeks, Parkers, Trans, etc. are either.
The argument about the vent is really only when you're first jumping up on plane. It is susposed to allow any trapped air a way out of the tunnel when it is getting primed with water on take off. My tin boat was vented and the current tunnel in my home built is not. My friends and I have put valves on the vents to see if there is any difference. We tried it just about every which way and couldn't tell a 'seat of the pants' difference. The one thing you'll notice is that when you have a vent you sometimes get water splashing back up out of the vent. We put hoses on ours so that any splash back doesn't get us wet.

Capn, I think that boat that wanted to flip over on you was probably chine tripping. Some narrow boats with tunnels will do this.

On the horsepower ratings, get a hull rated as "commercial". The dealer I recommended carries these. A commercial hull has no horsepower restrictions on it. PM RedXCross as he used to have a 18'x42" tunnel with a 40 Merc (souped up to at least a 60) from Jerry's.

Typically a more narrow boat will run faster with the same amount of power. Conversely a wider boat will float shallower at rest.

I've been in the Pace Tract and would recommend you go with a 16'x48" and hang a 40 on the back. Tohatsu makes the lightest 40 that will really run. I've got a buddy that is running the rig I recommend (with a little work done on the motor) and he is at or over 40 mph. Pretty impressive considering a tunnel will typically rob 15-20% of the top speed of a boat.

And Stuart, that fella that is going to put a mud motor on a tunnel hull should do some research. They typically don't work well together.

Tim


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## Stuart (May 21, 2004)

TimOub007 said:


> And Stuart, that fella that is going to put a mud motor on a tunnel hull should do some research. They typically don't work well together.
> 
> Tim


Hmmm, I don't know if he has done it yet or not. What about the hyperdrive types? Still not good on tunnels? I'm clueless about these mud motors other than they obviously work without tunnels pretty dern good.


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## TimOub007 (Jun 10, 2005)

I really think it has to do with the boyancy or that lost by the tunnel. Those mud motors are some heavy dudes. I think it is more of an issue with the short tail ones due to the speeds that they can attain. The same motor on a similar non-tunnel boat would be a few mph faster due to less drag. I'm sure that is where they're coming from.

Gator Trax recently started making one of their boats with a tunnel for outboard use. There isn't any mention on their site about running the mud motors with a tunnel.

What is the width of the boat he's going to put it on? The lightest of the mud motors is over 200 pounds. That is more than a big Merc 40 or about the same as your ETEC. If he's got a narrow hull, less than 48", he'll see a difference in draft. May not matter to him, until he hits a hard bottom. Those motors don't like sand or shell any more than an outboard does. The old style long tails would kick up, but the short tails aren't quite as manuverable in hand.

I'd love to have one on my home built, but I don't like the weight. If they could make a 150 pound, 25 horsepower model I'd be all over it.

Tim


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## capn (Aug 11, 2005)

TimOub007 said:


> Capn, I think that boat that wanted to flip over on you was probably chine tripping. Some narrow boats with tunnels will do this.


Well, it wasn't a narrow boat, and installing a vent fixed the problem, so I don't think this was the case.

I would also argue that the most notable difference I've seen in venting the tunnel is what it will do while on plane, not jumping up. You don't experience near the sluggishness that other boats, including fiberglass tunnel hulls, face. But, that's just been my experience. Of course, you'll find a lot of makers recommending the vents, too.

Also, you can get external vents from some makers now. My boat has them.


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## bslittle79 (May 24, 2004)

*Vented tunnel*

I've had a vented tunnel on two boats I've owned. One on an aluminum boat(16' allweld with custom sponsons, and custom tunnel 25hp suzuki) and the other was on my 12' Fiberglass scooter I built. Both vents worked and the difference was once on plain. The scooter's vent was really too small, but I couldn't find a valve that was large enough. At least a valve like I was looking for. But you could still feel the air being sucked into the vent. Not quit as strong as a vacuum cleaner maybe half. So on the Scooter I just left it open and ran it. Ran a hose up to my console so I could feel the suction with my hand to see if it was working. The valve I picked out enabled me to turn the vent on and off from my console since the scooter was decked. It was a good idea but the valve was only 1/2". I couldn't find a 3/4"-1" that I could turn off from my console. And with the Scooter the tunnel was so long that in some conditions I could plain the boat out and get air to the tunnel. With an aluminum boat you won't be able to do that. But all that vented stuff depends on how the tunnel is designed and that's another theory all in itself. Everybody will have their own!

Anyway, good luck with your purchase. If I was you i'd call Jerry's Marine in Louisiana and as him some questions. Those guys have all the bugs worked out and if you are worried with your boat's Performance they'll get you hooked up with a good boat. If you just want a boat could careless about speed, draft, shallow running tunnel I'd just buy one you can afford and go fishing. Buy one with a newer motor and an older boat.


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## capn (Aug 11, 2005)

bslittle79 said:


> But all that vented stuff depends on how the tunnel is designed and that's another theory all in itself. Everybody will have their own!


I would agree with that. And like you, I notice the difference in mine while on plane.

The fun thing about boats, is that nobody really knows for sure.


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## bslittle79 (May 24, 2004)

capn said:


> I would agree with that. And like you, I notice the difference in mine while on plane.
> 
> The fun thing about boats, is that nobody really knows for sure.


Nobody knows, is the truth!

While in college and being a Lab rat I always wanted to build a machine that would be able to test a boat manufacture's tunnel design before putting thousands of dollars on the line.

Basically running a given flow of water over a surface with pumps(able to guage the velocities). Build several different tunnels out of a transparent material(so you could witness the bubbles or flow changes in the tunnel, etc), and also be able to guage the suction on each tunnel.

So there's my solution to all the tunnel design theories, and an idea that could make some Lab Rat famous/money. I'll go back to the real world now.


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## skinnyme (May 24, 2004)

I wouldn't consider boatrights too heavy to push. I used to have a 16' x 60" tx scooter with a 90 yammie and I stuck it almost dry twice. Both times we were able to push it a pretty good ways back to water with two guys without too much trouble. It made a great little duck boat.

BSlittle, love the avatar!!! Makes me antsy like a mo fo.


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## jjtroutkiller (Jan 28, 2005)

Caveman said:


> JJTroutkiller - What problems did you have with Sea Ark?


My buddy was running the Sea Ark and he had all the welds around the front deck break on him twice, they did supply another hull and the rig was sold. I would say their customer service was pretty good but the product lacked reliability.


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## jjtroutkiller (Jan 28, 2005)

TimOub007 said:


> Gator Trax recently started making one of their boats with a tunnel for outboard use. There isn't any mention on their site about running the mud motors with a tunnel.


The second hull I had them build was a HyperTunnel with MB's 31hp short-tail, that hull was built 3 seasons ago and they were making them for outboard use as well. The tunnel will slow the boat down and in soft bottoms with the mudmotor I don't think it is needed but over hard sand it did make a difference, was running the hull in Port A a couple of seasons ago and the hull was lying on bottom while on plane and was still getting along I beleive due to the grass covering the hard sand bottom and the tunnel.


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## reeltime3 (Oct 29, 2006)

You can do better than a Sea Ark.


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