# Home siding questions



## CDHknives (Mar 17, 2012)

Here's the setup: The cedar siding on my house is rotting under the trim...mostly because they didn't prime and paint it there originally I guess. anyway, rather than keep fixing 10-25% of it every few years (again) where it starts to rot rapidly, I am going to strip the whole house a section at a time and redo the siding.
Currently the walls are insulated (fiberglass) with a moisture barrier of tar paper and siding nailed directly to the studs...no sheathing at all otherwise. No caulking either. I want to improve on this situation.
The windows are early 1980's era aluminum single pane, and the coastal environment has them pretty well at end of life. I want to take this opportunity to replace them as well. I have 4 windows already delivered and ready to install.
I want to add a layer of plywood sheathing at minimum, then go over it all with Hardiplank type siding.
Questions:
1) IF I want to add a layer of Celotex type (hard foam board) insulation, how do I layer the wall with Tyvex type moisture barrier? My concern is trapping moisture between the foam board and tyvex.
2) Should I add a treated 2x4 along the bottom of the outside wall to cover the ends accounting for the added thickness? There is no lip on my foundation slab otherwise.
3) what else am I missing?


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## nate56 (Dec 11, 2010)

Foam board is only good for brick applications...if you put sheathing on your walls the next best thing to do if your looking for the best r value you can use tyvek's thermal wrap...its a 9 x 100 roll.. it has something close to a r value of 2...it costs 219.99 a roll and is the way to go for sheathing insulation..the foam board is great for dead space between brick and sheating creating a barrier from entering the house....siding on the other hand needs somewhat of breathable barrier...


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## Spectre5922 (Jun 22, 2010)

CDH,
If you want to sheath your house, use exterior grade OSB or CDX, then go over that with the Tyvek like Nate said. The advantage of ply over other sheathing is not only will it help soundproof your house, but it is structural if nailed properly. The Hardi is a good product, just make sure and follow the installation and painting instructions to the letter. Also, don't skimp on the quality of caulk that you use. The difference between cheap caulk and good caulk may be $100 for the whole house, but it is also the difference between caulk that lasts for years without redoing it and caulk that starts to shrink/crack within 6 months! 

Just my $.02 as a homebuilder.


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## Pier Pressure (Aug 30, 2009)

Spectre5922 said:


> CDH,
> If you want to sheath your house, use exterior grade OSB or CDX, then go over that with the Tyvek like Nate said. The advantage of ply over other sheathing is not only will it help soundproof your house, but it is structural if nailed properly. The Hardi is a good product, just make sure and follow the installation and painting instructions to the letter. Also, don't skimp on the quality of caulk that you use. The difference between cheap caulk and good caulk may be $100 for the whole house, but it is also the difference between caulk that lasts for years without redoing it and caulk that starts to shrink/crack within 6 months!
> 
> Just my $.02 as a homebuilder.


That in red is the truth. Do it once with good caulk. Even if its going to get painted use the good caulk.

Overkill maybe, but I primed the back of all of my hardi plank and the ends before I hung each piece. Also the first 2 feet off the ground I used pressure treated wood and primed as well. Also ran a bead of caulk between the footer board and the plywood. No bugs in them walls.


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## CDHknives (Mar 17, 2012)

I plan to buy the pre-primed siding...either genuine Hardi or the 'fiber cement' product from MG. IIRC I would then still prime the cuts to seal and paint the whole thing when I'm done.

Do y'all recommend caulking every seam between every row of siding or just around windows, doors, and such?


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## Pier Pressure (Aug 30, 2009)

CDHknives said:


> I plan to buy the pre-primed siding...either genuine Hardi or the 'fiber cement' product from MG. IIRC I would then still prime the cuts to seal and paint the whole thing when I'm done.
> 
> Do y'all recommend caulking every seam between every row of siding or just around windows, doors, and such?


I do, this is how I did it. No gaps for any moisture to get in. Then again after its all up. Like a fillet weld of caulk where the top planks overlap the lower plank

The hardi planks do come preprimed but its so thin, I just added another coat with rollers.


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## Pocketfisherman (May 30, 2005)

Spectre5922 said:


> CDH,
> If you want to sheath your house, use exterior grade OSB or CDX, then go over that with the Tyvek like Nate said. The advantage of ply over other sheathing is not only will it help soundproof your house, but it is structural if nailed properly. The Hardi is a good product, just make sure and follow the installation and painting instructions to the letter. Also, don't skimp on the quality of caulk that you use. The difference between cheap caulk and good caulk may be $100 for the whole house, but it is also the difference between caulk that lasts for years without redoing it and caulk that starts to shrink/crack within 6 months!
> 
> Just my $.02 as a homebuilder.


What is a good caulk brand or type you suggest that is high quality?


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## KIKO (Oct 24, 2006)

Cladding/siding will not stop water, it will only diverted, therefore you need to make sure you have a the proper house envelop. To do things right the first time use Tyvek along with a furring strip system to allow any water to drain, air to flow and dry the wall cavity and fiber cement siding fast.

Caulk will fail in about 6 months with normal expansion and contraction. James Hardy is no longer recommending caulk. Look at Tamlyn Xtreme Trim products www.xtrimtrim.com. They are recommended by James Hardie Siding Company. The products will cover seams and help divert water. There is no need to caulk when using them, therefore you will save money in the long run.


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## nate56 (Dec 11, 2010)

KIKO said:


> Cladding/siding will not stop water, it will only diverted, therefore you need to make sure you have a the proper house envelop. To do things right the first time use Tyvek along with a furring strip system to allow any water to drain, air to flow and dry the wall cavity and fiber cement siding fast.
> 
> Caulk will fail in about 6 months with normal expansion and contraction. James Hardy is no longer recommending caulk. Look at Tamlyn Xtreme Trim products www.xtrimtrim.com. They are recommended by James Hardie Siding Company. The products will cover seams and help divert water. There is no need to caulk when using them, therefore you will save money in the long run.


You must work for Tamlyn... Keep my orders coming.. hhaahaa


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## Spectre5922 (Jun 22, 2010)

If I'm not wrong, Hardi still recommends priming their product.


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## Pier Pressure (Aug 30, 2009)

KIKO said:


> Cladding/siding will not stop water, it will only diverted, therefore you need to make sure you have a the proper house envelop. To do things right the first time use Tyvek along with a furring strip system to allow any water to drain, air to flow and dry the wall cavity and fiber cement siding fast.
> 
> Caulk will fail in about 6 months with normal expansion and contraction. James Hardy is no longer recommending caulk. Look at Tamlyn Xtreme Trim products www.xtrimtrim.com. They are recommended by James Hardie Siding Company. The products will cover seams and help divert water. There is no need to caulk when using them, therefore you will save money in the long run.


Where did you get this information? I used caulk and uvcoarse its painted over. going good now 4 years no problems what so ever. 
Your links not working. I did use the plastic trim between hardie panels, but not the planks, if thats what the link is too.

I did find this. http://tamlyn.com/xtremetrim/About%20Xtreme%20Trim.html


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