# Associated RC18 chat



## Guffinator

I did it! That's right!


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## nik77356

aaggghhhh!!!! you beat me!!!


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## Guffinator

I'm currently scamming...errr...I mean dealing on an 18T. We'll see how it goes.


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## nik77356

sweet... lol. scamming?


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## Gary

Last episode we were talking about shocks and the difference between the FTs and 3 Racings aftermarket shocks. And on a side note, this is Guffs thread! Knowing him, its all about technical talk and not about Carp fish.

For the "Hinted Impaired", You just got told!


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## nik77356

ouch!!!


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## rex cars

*back to the topic at hand...*

I wanna 18th scale truck. 18T or Vendetta? Opinions?


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## Guffinator

Uh oh, it just got ugly!

Seriously Rex, both are great little cars. Do like me and get both! For offroad I like the 'detta, but for onroad stuff the Associated works very well.


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## Gary

rex cars said:


> I wanna 18th scale truck. 18T or Vendetta? Opinions?


Go with the Vendetta!

Edit: Guess I should of posted why!

Right out of the box the Duratrax Vendetta is the best deal for for someone new who doesnt care about bling and running a M11 with a Spectrum system. The AEs are for hardcore racers who are single and dont mind spending, or actually LIKE spending money on RC!

IMO, before its over with, the RC18s with the right set ups will be faster than the VDs. I think!


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## cjtamu

Guffinator said:


> Uh oh, it just got ugly!
> 
> Seriously Rex, both are great little cars. Do like me and get both! For offroad I like the 'detta, but for onroad stuff the Associated works very well.


Take it from someone with years of experience. Get both, 'cause that's what's gonna happen anyway. And go ahead and start clearing space for a monster truck, a gas truck, a dragster, couple of 1/10 electric cars, and maybe a 1/8 buggy too. These things are like crack for mechano geeks, LOL. Both of those cars are good. Come out and try one of each this weekend, a lot of it's just personal preference.


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## Big Phil

the vendetta seems beter out of the box?i think the 18t needs more hopups than the vendetta


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## Froggy69

i ordered the 3racing shocks.hopefully they get here before i get to race(slow boat from across the big pond).


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## nik77356

i want to get some too. no cash rite now tho  got to mow some yards!!! lol


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## gkcontra

You definitely have a dilemma...

If I didn't already have 3 18T's I would get a Vendetta St, but I don't wanna bother with spare parts for 2 different brands


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## Todd Claunch

your right chris old buddy it is like (crack) you know me i have a lot of nice toys 
but with my situation right i have not been able to come out and race. but some 
people (we wont say who thinks i shouldnt be posting) but your wrong i love this sport like everybody else.


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## Big Phil

are you stuck working on sat to?


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## cjtamu

Todd is working this Sat. But, his new truck should be here today and we're going to put that bad boy together so he can come race offroad Sat after he gets off. And yeah, out of the box the Detta is much better than the RTR RC18B/T. If you go with the Factory Team RC18's then they're comparable to the Dettas. But, by the time you buy the FT version, and add motor, speedo, and servo to it you're going to be in the $300 range. If you don't already have a radio then you have to buy that too. For $150 you can get a RTR Detta, radio and all. The only hopup I think the Detta needs are the steel drive axles, but you can do that when the plastic breaks. The Dettas are definitely the most bang for the buck.


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## Guffinator

I'm still running the plastic ones. They don't seem to be that big of an issue (knock on wood) and they are cheap as dirt.

Well my deal fell through on the 18T, so I am still T-less. Must....refrain....from...calling Tower with credit card.....


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## jerry23

Gary had to lock a thread and it wasnt even for me or phil LOL.


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## Big Phil

lol


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## cjtamu

Guffinator said:


> I'm still running the plastic ones. They don't seem to be that big of an issue (knock on wood) and they are cheap as dirt.
> 
> Well my deal fell through on the 18T, so I am still T-less. Must....refrain....from...calling Tower with credit card.....


I thought you broke one? I know Mark broke several. I have enough problems all on my own even when my car's not broken, LOL. I like to bullet proof things as much as I can. I can promise you, when we did the Shriners thing those kids beat the dog out of those cars. The only thing that broke on the Mini-T's were the cheesy turnbuckles (they bent), and on the Dettas the plastic axles. We were pretty impressed.


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## Big Phil

I agree with you on that nothing worse that to be doing good in a race and your car fail that sucks make them bullet proof!


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## Guffinator

I broke one after a few months of racing and some pretty serious crashes like flying off the top of the wall turn, so they don't seem to be that week. If I break another one I'll probably upgrade to the metal ones but hopefully that will be a few months down the road again.


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## jerry23

Big Phil said:


> I agree with you on that nothing worse that to be doing good in a race and your car fail that sucks make them bullet proof!


Phil would Know. Between is xxx-cr and his Slowvak he liked to never finish a race.


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## nik77356

what about my hyper 7?


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## jerry23

the one that eats throttle servos for lunch?


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## Donnie Hayden

Do we really need to discuss that nik?


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## Big Phil

jerry do i need to bring up last week did you finish a race?LOL


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## jerry23

Lol


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## nik77356

jerry23 said:


> the one that eats throttle servos for lunch?


breakfast, lunch, and dinner


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## jerry23

i was doing R&D on a new part that didnt work out.


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## nik77356

uh-huh, sure you were jerry, we believe you


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## Donnie Hayden

Dont sweat it Jerry. Atleast you wasnt stuck in a box all day WISHING you could race 




HaHa


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## Big Phil

OMFG yea right whatever helps you sleep!!!!


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## Big Phil

aint that the truth you got a point donnie


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## jerry23

Donnie Hayden said:


> Dont sweat it Jerry. Atleast you wasnt stuck in a box all day WISHING you could race
> 
> HaHa


at the rate that i wasnt racing i was wishing i was racing. from the same dang box too LOL


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## jerry23

Dad got 5th. thats gotta count for somthing. i did build that car as well.


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## Donnie Hayden

hahaha


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## Big Phil

i think we are in the wrong thread to be droping so much poop.we need a BS thread


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## jerry23

Um. i know all the ones ive been in are bs threads now. Sorry to the guys wo try to talk about cars or whatever it is we're here for.


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## SwayOveride

I have a question guys. What servo is everybody running in there 18's? I am confused on what servo to buy, I would like a metal gear servo but I don't want to modify the chassis to get it to fit and I would like a servo that will give me flawless service. I want to order all the stuff for my 18T at once so I don't have to pay shipping more than once.


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## cjtamu

Loyd, the only metal gear servo I know of that will fit in is the Hitec 65MG. If you got the FT version there's a kit in it for running the Hitec, otherwise you have to buy the mount kit. I liked the Hobby Electronics HDS-877 I had in it better. Quicker, smoother, digital, dropes right in, but not MG. Can't find it locally. It's in Alyssa's car now though. Danny says the Airtronics (can't remember the number) also drops right in, but I think it's analog.


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## SwayOveride

How do the plastic gears seem to be holding up in these cars while racing? I know in 1/10th offroad you are SOL with plastic gears? If the plastic gears are holding up really well I wouldn't mind buying a good servo with plastic gears. Also where did you buy the Hobby Electronics HDS-877?


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## nik77356

the 65mg is awesome!!! i havent had any problems with it yet and i dont even run a servo saver!!


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## cjtamu

Haven't had problems, but I've only raced it once. The servo saver on the 18's is pretty weak, I think you'd have to blast something pretty darn hard to break the gears. And even a MG servo usually has a sacrifice gear so you don't blow the motor. The MG isn't bad, but IMO it's slower than the HDS. Robert is running the Air and I think Danny is too, you might check with them on it. My Hobby Electronics was in the car when I bought it. Just run a search for HDS-877 and you'll find several places to order it.


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## SwayOveride

I was on the Hobby Electronics website and saw that the HDS-877 has 2 metal gears and 2 plastic gears. This seems like a good servo from the reading from the reading on the website and everywhere I look its under $25..


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## Gary

SwayOveride said:


> I was on the Hobby Electronics website and saw that the HDS-877 has 2 metal gears and 2 plastic gears. This seems like a good servo from the reading from the reading on the website.


See ya soon bro? lol


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## nik77356

i think the 877 is probly the most bang for the buck


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## SwayOveride

Hopefully

I start grad school the end of next month, but I applied with homeland security for a full time position back in Houston. If I get the job with homeland then I am moving back to Houston and I can race all I want. If I don't, then I will finish up grad school here in Nacogdoches. But I do plan on racing atleast once a month... Its just getting everything together, trying to get off work, packing everything up and making the 2.5 hr long trip to HIRCR which is hard.


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## Courtney Vaughan

Just FYI while we're on the steering servo subject: 

Danny suggested that I put a shock O-ring around the bushing & screw that hold the servo saver onto the servo before screwing it down, and it worked fantastic! Took out essentially all the wobbling from the bushing being to long to tighten down on the saver. Leaves just enough play to bend a little when the servo is in a bind. It takes a whopping $.10 worth of parts, and about 60 seconds......well worth it! 

Thanks Danny!


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## Big Phil

I just got a 18R Finely!


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## Donnie Hayden

Sweet!


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## Big Phil

ships 2 day tomorrow


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## nik77356

awesome!!


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## Donnie Hayden

I sure hope those 30''s I put on the R hook up at treys lol


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## nik77356

arent you worried about traction rolling?


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## Donnie Hayden

Not on that track. You really dont get enough speed built up.


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## Donnie Hayden

I will put the 10''s back on if I run into problems


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## nik77356

LOL. ok. i wonder how 18r tires will work on the 18T?


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## Donnie Hayden

I dunno. We can experiment saturday lol.


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## nik77356

ya we could. i already am. LOL

if you want one end or the other to roll more, do you lay down the shocks or stand them up?


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## Donnie Hayden

Speak english! LMAO

I honestly dont know. I'm just a driver.....


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## nik77356

same here!! LOL well....not a very good one

thats why i asked


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## Donnie Hayden

I think when you stand them up, You get more traction. Lay them down and it's looser.


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## Donnie Hayden

Mine are all the way down on the R.


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## nik77356

ok. ill have to stand my rear ones all the way up then. tryin to get it to drive like an 1/8 buggy


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## Donnie Hayden

I was thinking about adding some lead weight on the 18T just to see if it would help in that ripple section. Or, Running some vendetta wheels/tires.


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## nik77356

i just dont drive good on high traction. want it to drive more like im at mikes


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## Donnie Hayden

Please dont remind me of that day.........lol

That reminds me. I have to pull mine apart and shim the diffs soon as I get there. That popping noise is alot worse with the mamba in it.


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## nik77356

ya i had to do that today. probly gonna have to do it tomorrow too. LOL

well im goin to bed. Nite everybody!!


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## Donnie Hayden

Same here. See ya saturday.


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## cjtamu

nik77356 said:


> ya we could. i already am. LOL
> 
> if you want one end or the other to roll more, do you lay down the shocks or stand them up?


If you're talking about getting one end or the other to roll FASTER, you can do that with springs and shock oil. Softer springs and/or lighter oil will make that end of the car roll faster. It will also probably roll "more" into the same corner than with stiffer springs, since it will take less force to move that end of the car. Moving the shocks out will affect droop and downtravel on these cars and might affect the total roll a little if the outside shock hits its downtravel limit. Probably not though, b/c I doubt the outer shock is fully extended in our corners.


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## danthrc

Lay em down for less body roll, and on a high bite smooth surface. Trey's and M&M road coarse works best with them laid down. (not counting the whoop section)
Probably the best all around setup would be with the shocks in the center hole of the tower.

Here is a setup sheet from Tony Phalen. This is his indoor off road set up


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## Guffinator

Is your site back up Danny?


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## danthrc

Not yet. The guy that is hosting it is working on it.

On the post above, I could not include the setup sheet because its a .pdf I don't think this site supports that. I will make an image of it later and re post


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## ddcarter3

*18R Finely Edition*



Big Phil said:


> I just got a 18R Finely!


You mean the Finely Edition finally made to market!!! That's awesome! I thought Steve Finely only played baseball. I really didn't know he raced our little toy cars also! Again, that's awesome!
Just joking SS.:slimer:


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## Big Phil

ddcarter3 said:


> You mean the Finely Edition finally made to market!!! That's awesome! I thought Steve Finely only played baseball. I really didn't know he raced our little toy cars also! Again, that's awesome!
> Just joking SS.:slimer:


ha ha you think your so smart cuz you can spell words.LOL come on dave i hade just woke up lol


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## nik77356

cjtamu said:


> If you're talking about getting one end or the other to roll FASTER, you can do that with springs and shock oil. Softer springs and/or lighter oil will make that end of the car roll faster. It will also probably roll "more" into the same corner than with stiffer springs, since it will take less force to move that end of the car. Moving the shocks out will affect droop and downtravel on these cars and might affect the total roll a little if the outside shock hits its downtravel limit. Probably not though, b/c I doubt the outer shock is fully extended in our corners.


what my goal is, is to make the front end push more. how do i do that?


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## Donnie Hayden

Get in front of it and push....LOL


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## nik77356

anybody happen to have this part?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJHN9&P=Z

i just broke mine. lol


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## Gary

nik77356 said:


> anybody happen to have this part?
> 
> http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJHN9&P=Z
> 
> i just broke mine. lol


Yup!


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## nik77356

any chance i could buy it from you if randy's doesnt have it?


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## Gary

nik77356 said:


> any chance i could buy it from you if randy's doesnt have it?


No, but you can have it! Im not going to sell a used $3 part to 2Coolers. You also need a shock bladder right?


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## nik77356

well im stopping by randy's hobbies on the way there, but if they dont have it, then yes.
thanks a lot gary


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## danthrc

I have some of those parts to nick. Sounds like you will be covered.


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## cjtamu

Nik sorry, I was swamped at work and then had to deal with comcast, then finish Todd's truck so I didn't get back to this. What Danny said is right, moving the shocks out will make the car roll slightly less b/c there will be less down travel, IF you're cornering hard enough that the shock shaft is extending completely. When you corner left, the right shock shaft travels down, or extends. So, if you limit how far the shock can travel then the car rolls less. What I was getting at is that on Trey's offroad tracks, I don't think we're carrying enough speed into the corners that we're extending the shocks all the way. Laying the shocks down will still help b/c the springs in effect become more progressive (it takes more force to move them as they're compressed). So, with the same force applied, the car rolls less, even though you haven't done much to limit how far the body can roll in total. It comes down to when you want the car to roll and how much force you want to apply. Why do you want a car that pushes? I think most of us running the 18's offroad probably have the rear shocks outside on the arm, center on the tower and inside front arm and center tower. Moving them outside in the front will take away some turn in steering, but it also affects the amount of down travel, and probably doesn't give enough travel for the jumps. Try the mounting locations I gave you, then play around with springs and oil weights. If you just think the car is too twitchy in general, dial some steering out on your radio.


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## ddcarter3

Big Phil said:


> ha ha you think your so smart cuz you can spell words.LOL come on dave i hade just woke up lol


Sorry Phil, I couldn't pass it up. I had a 2 hour layover in Cincinnati that turned into a 5 hour layover. Thanks for the laugh, I needed it.:tongue:


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## Big Phil

thats cool it was funny sorry about your layover


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## nik77356

i think my car is too twitchy. i dont drive too good on high traction surfaces and i figure i can learn to drive the car better if i make it push, then gradually i can dial that out and then be a fairly good racer


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## Snowmonkey

make the front harder and the rear softer that will make it push.


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## nik77356

well it turns out i actually needed more steering!! lol. it wasnt as twitchy as i expected it to be


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## nik77356

anybody considered getting a one-way or spool for their rc18 for HIRCR???


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## Guffinator

Both are probably a bad idea


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## nik77356

why is that?


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## Gary

nik77356 said:


> anybody considered getting a one-way or spool for their rc18 for HIRCR???


Not a chance! A one-way is for wide open touring cars with no tight sections.


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## nik77356

really? see this is where im definitely a noob. can someone help explain to me the advantages of a spool or one-way please?


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## Donnie Hayden

Did yall notice how good I did with the 18R. It's just amazing how well that car performs in box stock form. I enjoyed the heck out of it.


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## Snowmonkey

You did great with the 18r . i on the other hand didnt like the handleing of the R and want to change the settings but there are no adjustments on that dam thing .


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## nik77356

im definitely gonna have to splurge and get one


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## Donnie Hayden

I ordered the adjustable turnbuckle kit for it earlier. That will give me some adjustment in those important areas.


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## nik77356

i need to get the adjustable turnbuckle kit for my 18t. i needed more camber but didnt have the adjustability. at least i dont have to deal with the old stock shocks!!


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## Donnie Hayden

yeah. Shocks will be next on my list eventually. However, The stock shocks seem to be doing good for now.


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## Snowmonkey

Danny want let us adjust the camber he want's it to stay stock all the way . He has a point but it drives me crazy


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## nik77356

donny, put shocks on the list rite after a new brushless system. thomas, danny wouldnt let you adjust camber???


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## Donnie Hayden

Well, I will have adjustbale ones on mine this week


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## nik77356

thats what you want!!!


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## Snowmonkey

nope he said no hopups maybe we could talk him into camber.that would help alot at Treys atleast .


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## nik77356

no hopups at M&M??? im confused. ?????


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## Snowmonkey

well i dont want to take them off for M&M and run them at Trey's that would suck


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## nik77356

oh... i didnt know he wouldnt allow hopups at M&M


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## Snowmonkey

Thats the problem but he wants people to go inside m&m and be able to buy a car and race it . It makes sence and ia good idea.


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## nik77356

well i understand that for the stock class, but for modified???


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## Snowmonkey

I dont think there is a modified class is there


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## nik77356

thats not what it says on teamhoustonrc.com


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## Donnie Hayden

I could see motors and such...But we are talking camber links. I think it's more of a selling point for the car. The new guys can see what will make their car handle better and go in the shop and buy it.


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## nik77356

i agree with donny. i mean a person can buy the car and race with it, but as they get better, they can get more hopups as they feel suit


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## Big Phil

Its cool money Dont win that way its a good class for newbees.and guys that like stock racing.


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## Big Phil

nik77356 said:


> i agree with donny. i mean a person can buy the car and race with it, but as they get better, they can get more hopups as they feel suit


yes then you move to mod class.


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## nik77356

rite.......


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## Guffinator

Just to clarify a bit.

Stock 18r is just that...box stock essentially.
Modified is open to anything. So far it's only Associated 18b's or t's in modified (since I've been racing there)


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## Snowmonkey

Thats what Danny told me Guff


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## Courtney Vaughan

so can I race my modified 18R in modified?


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## Guffinator

yes


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## Snowmonkey

I didn't realize there was a modified class how many people have modified 18r's


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## Guffinator

None that I know of other the Courtney. The B's and T's get around the track really well, I think it would take some work to get an R to handle well at those speeds.


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## Donnie Hayden

So does adding turnbuckles mean its modified lol


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## Guffinator

I'm not sure Donnie, Danny will have to chime in.


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## cjtamu

Donnie, look on the THRC site if it's back up. But what I recall is, you could change the radio and that was it. Seems to me running an 18R with an M11 instead of the stocker is more of an advantage than adustable turnbuckles, LOL.


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## Courtney Vaughan

Man, I really wanted to race the 18R and the 18T next weekend, but my 18R is modified (even though I'm always last place!). Are there classes for both?


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## Gary

Im getting confused with the Losi Street meats. Which rims will I need? Everywhere I look I see MiniT "FRONT" rims????

Cristian, I wish yall shipped USPS. The brown truck guy shows up before I get home.


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## cjtamu

Gary, you can get the tires by themselves and then buy the AE wheels, or you can by 2 sets of rears mounted on Losi wheels. Go to the Team Losi site and there's a complete parts list.


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## Gary

cjtamu said:


> Gary, you can get the tires by themselves and then buy the AE wheels, or you can by 2 sets of rears mounted on Losi wheels. Go to the Team Losi site and there's a complete parts list.


OK, I see! Just get a set of AE "rear" wheels?


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## Snowmonkey

The ones i purchased were unmounted and i bought a/e truck rims to mount them


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## Jeff Dean

**** Thomas,
You are going to push me into getting one of these things!!!


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## Gary

Thanks Thomas. This is what I like about minis. 2 sets of tires and wheels for $42 and they will last several months.


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## Courtney Vaughan

It really is fun Jeff, and if you're a good driver, you could go out and pick up an RTR RC18T or B for $150, play around with the shock oil, and easily run with anyone out there. If you don't feel like nitro'ing every weekend or every other weekend, it's a super cheap way to get your fix!


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## Courtney Vaughan

On second thought, it's not just getting a fix or filling in when you can't race nitro......it's equally as fun, and MORE fun in some ways.


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## Donnie Hayden

Indeed it is.


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## nik77356

i dont know guys, im shying away from nitro for now. not gonna quit on it yet, but honestly im having a lot more fun with this than i am nitro


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## Jeff Dean

a bad weekend with nitro will do that to you.


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## nik77356

try a few bad weekends


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## Courtney Vaughan

That's true Jeff! I'm a pretty even-tempered guy, so I'm not very irrational. But, a really bad weekend of nitro will make me want to come home and sell off everything!


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## Donnie Hayden

I'm almost to that point now CV. It's not so much the fact I am enjoying 18th scale so much, I'm just moreless burned out with everything nitro related.


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## nik77356

ya, i think i like the whole HIRCR/HARC schedule. race minis every 2 weeks, and nitro once a month


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## Gary

I tried nitro and I honestly didnt like it. These little cars have just about everything I like. Its in the air conditioning. Its clean and cheap. Its a whole lot of fun, the competetion is really good and its a challenge! Everybody is very friendly and are allways willing to help eachother out.

And when I mean the competetion is good and its a challenge, if you make the A Main, your really wheeling!


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## Jeff Dean

which batteries would be good to buy with a 18b/ BL set up?


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## nik77356

ya this mini racing is great!!! i was kinda skeptical about it at first, but i wish i could do this every week!!!


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## nik77356

IB1400's i think is what most of us use? or at least IB cells


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## Gary

Jeff Dean said:


> which batteries would be good to buy with a 18b/ BL set up?


IB1400s which I have plenty of. I put in a big order not too long ago just to help everyone out. $3 per cell and Ill eat the shipping cost.


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## Guffinator

I'm running both the IB1400's and Elite 1500's. Both work well..


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## Donnie Hayden

Yeah Jeff, 1400's are great. Lipos are good, But the power is way too much for racing I think.

Thanks to all of the guys that helped me out yesterday. I had my head buried so far in the 18T I dont remember if I thanked everyone.


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## nik77356

im gonna convert to lipo soon enough


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## cjtamu

Jeff, the NiMh batteries with BL are more than enough power. Get you one and come on out.


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## Gary

Your going to find different and sometimes biased oppinions on the difference between the Intellect and the Elite cells. Cheapbatterypacks.com push the Elite cells and show discharge graphs. They show the Elites better but I dont belive it. Maxamps.com where most of us buy our cells dont even sell Elites I belive. Elites are Chinese and IBs are Japanese.

I remember seeing some testing on one of the drag racing forums but Im not sure how that relates to us since they may draw up to 500 amps for 2 seconds. Just like anything else, its a personal thing. I'd rather have Japanese batteries over Chinese and we have very good luck with Maxamps.


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## Courtney Vaughan

Jeff, the 1400NIMH cells are more than adequate if you already have some or have a source to get them cheap. 

HOWEVER, if you have a charger that does lipo's, there's no reason not to go with them.....they're the same price as the NIMH now, have more capacity, there is NO cycling/maintenance necessary, they will peak every charge on the fast charge setting, and will give you FULL power all the way up until they cut off......rather than having to drive your car for the last few minutes of the race as the battery is dying and your car gets slower and slower and slower.

As Donnie said, the 3 cell lipos are WAAAYYY too much power, and are pretty much just for insane speed. But you can pick up the 2cell 2200MAH packs for under $30 shipped. The 2-cell is 7.4volts, and is pretty much the same amount of power as the 6 cell NIMH packs.

Just as brushless is the future for motors/esc's, lipo's are the future for batteries.

Don't be intimidated by them and the carp you read on the internet........I was at first, but they're sooooo much easier than NIMH.


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## nik77356

who discharges and cycles their mini batteries?


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## Courtney Vaughan

I just wanted to add that I got (3) 5 minute heats and probably 3 minutes of practice before EACH heat all on one charge! When charged it up before the mains, the charger said it had only added 1084MAH out of 2200MAH capacity. Point is, I got around 20 minutes of run time with my brushless set on 65-70% power, and the battery was only half dead!

Like I said, if you have the charger to support lipos, why would you want to do anything else?


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## Courtney Vaughan

Nik, that IB1400 pack I have has to be cycled before a race if you let it sit for more than a couple of weeks. It has a 1400MAH capacity, and if I don't cycle it after having let it sit for a couple of weeks, it will only charg up to about 1100MAH. When I cycle it, it will go up to like 1450 or so.


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## nik77356

im gonna get a charger that handles lipos real soon. my only setback is price. not only do i have to buy a charger, but i also have to get a power supply.


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## Donnie Hayden

If it aint broke dont fix it


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## nik77356

ya i need to get a better charger because i just have a peak charger. it doesnt tell me anything about my packs


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## Donnie Hayden

I have been using the pirana digital charger for about 3 years now and I have never had a issue. It's likea $45 charger.


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## Courtney Vaughan

*right*



Donnie Hayden said:


> If it aint broke dont fix it


donnie is right......the NIMH stuff is more than adequate, but if you're starting from scratch, I still say lipos

Ok, I'll shut up now.......I'm just so impressed with these lipos and I had to tell somebody!


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## nik77356

ya but does it charge lipos?


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## Donnie Hayden

No.


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## nik77356

thats what i want to get, is a charger that charges lipos. any suggestions courtney?


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## Guffinator

Gary said:


> Your going to find different and sometimes biased oppinions on the difference between the Intellect and the Elite cells. Cheapbatterypacks.com push the Elite cells and show discharge graphs. They show the Elites better but I dont belive it. Maxamps.com where most of us buy our cells dont even sell Elites I belive. Elites are Chinese and IBs are Japanese.
> 
> I remember seeing some testing on one of the drag racing forums but Im not sure how that relates to us since they may draw up to 500 amps for 2 seconds. Just like anything else, its a personal thing. I'd rather have Japanese batteries over Chinese and we have very good luck with Maxamps.


I bought my cells from Blind batts, they sell both the IB's and Elites, but they state that the Elites out perform the IB's in every way. I seem to hear that over and over so that's why I went with the Elites. However, if there is any difference in performance I can't tell it. Both cells seem to perform the same to me.


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## Courtney Vaughan

The only lipo one I've ever used is that ICE, and it's the best charger I've ever owned....hands down


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## nik77356

ok. i waas thinkin about the new super brain charger because you dont need a power supply for it


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## nik77356

this is most likely a stupid question, but here goes. when you buy aluminum steering knuckles from atomics mods for $8 are you getting 1 or 2 knuckles? same with all the other aluminum parts? http://www.atomicmods.com/Categories/Associated-RC-18/Susp-and-Chassis-Hop-Ups.aspx


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## Gary

nik77356 said:


> this is most likely a stupid question, but here goes. when you buy aluminum steering knuckles from atomics mods for $8 are you getting 1 or 2 knuckles? same with all the other aluminum parts? http://www.atomicmods.com/Categories/Associated-RC-18/Susp-and-Chassis-Hop-Ups.aspx


Block(S)


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## nik77356

ok, well i just wanted to make sure. they are so cheap it gets confusing!!


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## Donnie Hayden

Some of that stuff is sold as (1) Dont know why, But I have seen stuff listed that way.


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## Donnie Hayden

Like this:
http://www.atomicmods.com/Products/Atomic-RC18T-Aluminum-Front-Steering-Knuckle__13233.aspx


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## nik77356

ok so i would have to order 2 of those?


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## Donnie Hayden

Nik, Check your PM box.


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## nik77356

courtney, what lipo's do you use??


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## Courtney Vaughan

apogee 2cell 2200mah.....think it's called the "magnum" or something like that. They're $27.

I don't know if they're any better than any other lipo, but check out their warranty! This is copied and pasted directly from the apogee website:

Apogee Lifetime Replacement Policy 
Due to Apogees continued success and growth; we are now able to further support our customers.

We are now implementing a "no fault" replacement policy after the first 30 days of product ownership.

ANY pack can be returned for ANY reason to be replaced at 35% discount from our web site pricing plus shipping costs.

This means if you:


Over discharge
Over charge
Smash it
Cut it
Disassemble it
Short it
Crash it
It simply does not matter. Intentionally damaged by the end consumer or not, we're here to stand behind our products.

Packs may only be exchanged for similar capacity and cell count of the latest technology.


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## nik77356

wow!!! thats a great warranty!!


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## Guffinator

Ordering parts for my 18B. I know the Losi Mini T tires work well at HIRCR, but do they also work well at MnM? I know Danny runs the Road Rages at MnM, but I think Robert runs the Losi's. Any input?


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## nik77356

i think if danny runs the losi tires at HIRCR but the road rages at MnM i would get both. because the road rages arent worth a darn at HIRCR


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## Guffinator

I know the Rages don't work at Trey's...but I think the Losi's work at both.


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## Gary

Guffinator said:


> Ordering parts for my 18B. I know the Losi Mini T tires work well at HIRCR, but do they also work well at MnM? I know Danny runs the Road Rages at MnM, but I think Robert runs the Losi's. Any input?


Not the MiniTs. Get the Street Meats for HIRCR. Im running the kit tires which are ok, I thought... Danny and Snowmonkey are running the streetmeats and when we were close the difference was obvious between our cars due mostly to the tires. And the fact they can drive better than me. LOL

I have a set of road rages if you want em.


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## nik77356

i wonder how slicks will work at MnM???


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## Guffinator

Are you sure Gary? I thought I saw the Losi's on Danny's car.


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## Guffinator

nik77356 said:


> i wonder how slicks will work at MnM???


Probably ok. My homemade slicks on the 'detta worked pretty good. The treaded tires like the Losi's and the Rage's provide traction-rolling bite.


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## nik77356

danny was running the losi tires


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## nik77356

ya mine are homade slicks too. i dont know but im hoping to be able to find out this weekend


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## Snowmonkey

Danny and I were running Losi Street treads part #losb1170. Danny told me that proline Road Rage work at M&M . the Losi tire also works great there but will only last for one or maybe two weekends max .


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## nik77356

whats the difference between the meats and the treads?


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## Guffinator

I'm having a problem finding a place that carries both the Losi tires and Associated wheels.


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## nik77356

why not just buy losi rear wheels?


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## Gary

Guffinator said:


> I'm having a problem finding a place that carries both the Losi tires and Associated wheels.


I couldnt either. I got two sets coming though. I dont know if you like the spoked wheels but your welcome to have a set untill they come available again.


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## Courtney Vaughan

atomicmods has the mini-t proline wabash spoke wheels and the losi streat meat tread tires.


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## Snowmonkey

I am not sure there is a difference between the two tires from Losi. If I had to bet they are the same tire. I purchased a new set at riche's hobby shop today I know they have the associated rims and the Losi tires. Also Larry's has them in stock


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## Guffinator

Am I correct in thinking that the truck wheels (front and rear) are the same size, but the buggie fronts are narrower? So I would want to order truck wheels correct?


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## Snowmonkey

Yes i use the truck rims all the way around .


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## Guffinator

Any other items that are a must have for a Factory Team 18B while I'm ordering?


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## Gary

Guffinator said:


> Any other items that are a must have for a Factory Team 18B while I'm ordering?


Servo!


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## Guffinator

Thank you! I don't have an extra. What's a good one?


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## Snowmonkey

I really dont have a good answer for that i am using a Ace c1016 i havent had any trouble with it but i have only run the car at trey's this weekend . i have a Hitec HS-65MG in my box just incase i have a problem with the Ace . Danny is running a airtronics he purchased from Atomic .


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## Gary

I also run the Airtronics and have had no problems with it.


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## ddcarter3

Courtney Vaughan said:


> The only lipo one I've ever used is that ICE, and it's the best charger I've ever owned....hands down


I second that emotion!! 
I sold my Turbo 35 and bought the Ice.


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## gkcontra

Guffinator said:


> I'm having a problem finding a place that carries both the Losi tires and Associated wheels.


 I use this guy, $20 for 2 sets can't be beat.

http://cgi.ebay.com/RC18T-RC18R-RC1...hZ014QQcategoryZ44029QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem


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## Guffinator

I searched the forums and found a link to the Airtronics servo.


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## ddcarter3

gkcontra said:


> I use this guy, $20 for 2 sets can't be beat.
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/RC18T-RC18R-RC18B-Chrome-Tire-Set-of-4x-2packs-Losi_
> W0QQitemZ330150678864QQihZ014QQcategoryZ44029QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem


Just ordered mine!


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## Guffinator

That is a good deal. I'm not big on the chrome dishes but what the hey. I got some.


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## nik77356

i think i found a really good setup for onroad at MnM. im running silver VCS springs front and rear. im running the front shocks on the outside hole on the arm. and i need to get some 80, 90, and 100 weight oil because 60 is WAAAYYY too light


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## Donnie Hayden

Question for you guys running the 3racing shocks. Do the associated shock rebuild kits work for these? And are the 3racing shocks better than the FT shocks?


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## Donnie Hayden

Courtney, Do you still have that hs-81 servo? I forgot I yanked the one out of my sons truck.


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## Courtney Vaughan

Already up on ebay man! Sorry.

The 3 racing & FT shafts, ball cups, shock ends, bladders, o-rings, springs, and pistons are all interchangeable. Obviously the shock body, collar, and cap are different, and the seals are held in with a C-clip instead of a plastic cap like on the RTR & FT


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## Guffinator

The C-clip alone is a huge improvement. You definitley won't blow that out after landing from a jump!


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## ddcarter3

Donnie Hayden said:


> Courtney, Do you still have that hs-81 servo? I forgot I yanked the one out of my sons truck.


Donnie..I have one with the mounting ears clipped off. I will have it with me Saturday.LMK


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## Donnie Hayden

Thanks! See you saturday.


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## Big Phil

Hey donnie i got some 24"s to LOL


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## Donnie Hayden

hahaha


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## Guffinator

C'monnnnnn Brown!


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## Guffinator

Big Phil said:


> Hey donnie i got some 24"s to LOL


That's madd tizzite yo!


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## Big Phil

This one came with a fet on the motor man its fast for rtr stuff.


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## Guffinator

Dang. Tower screwed up and sent my package to my dad's house in Shepherd. ARgghhh. Guess I won't be racing it this weekend.


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## Big Phil

shepherd is not that far guff.I can be there in 10min. LOL


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## danthrc

Have your dad mail it and you should get it in one day.


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## nik77356

nik77356 said:


> anybody happen to have this part?
> 
> http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJHN9&P=Z
> 
> i just broke mine. lol


well guys,....i broke it again. it goes to show tha i do need to run a servo saver. not for my servo but for the rest of the parts. its what happens when you run MG servos


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## Big Phil

I think we all told you that.LOL


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## nik77356

yup you sure did. but im stubborn


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## cjtamu

nik77356 said:


> well guys,....i broke it again. it goes to show tha i do need to run a servo saver. not for my servo but for the rest of the parts. its what happens when you run MG servos


Boy, buy you books and buy you books and all you do is eat the covers off 'em.


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## nik77356

what can i say???


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## gkcontra

I'd say you need to get an old broomstick, put a nail in the end and start walking the streets collecting cans so you can recycle them to get your new parts...

j/k


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## Big Phil

Lol!!!!!!!!!!


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## Donnie Hayden

haha


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## Big Phil

You wont need many can's the part is only $3.00


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## nik77356

nah, cash isnt the problem, i just need to be able to get the part


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## gkcontra

I'd help ya but I am buying parts on an 'as needed' basis instead of the usual toolbox full of spares just in case. I just don't happen to have what ya need.


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## nik77356

i mostly am too, but since 1/18 is so cheap if i have the money and am already ordering parts i need i add a couple of spares in too


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## Froggy69

been there and done that on the stick and nail remark.lol!!!!


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## rex cars

gkcontra said:


> I'd say you need to get an old broomstick, put a nail in the end and start walking the streets collecting cans so you can recycle them to get your new parts...


hey Nik, now here's how you can get the $ for a 1:1 car that you'l be wanting soon. haha lu sun


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## Gary

What springs yall think I should run using 35 weight?


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## Courtney Vaughan

rex cars said:


> hey Nik, now here's how you can get the $ for a 1:1 car that you'l be wanting soon. haha lu sun


1:1 scale......that's pretty funny!


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## Courtney Vaughan

*springs*



Gary said:


> What springs yall think I should run using 35 weight?


I'm running stock blue springs w/35 wt on both the R and the T......seems to work very good for both. But then again, I don't win very much with this 1/18 stuff, so take my advise for what it's worth!

But seriously, Blue springs & 35WT seem to give a very consistent feel. I went up to 40WT and it was just slightly too stiff, and I tried the factory 30WT and it was too soft.


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## Gary

Courtney Vaughan said:


> I'm running stock blue springs w/35 wt on both the R and the T......seems to work very good for both. But then again, I don't win very much with this 1/18 stuff, so take my advise for what it's worth!
> 
> But seriously, Blue springs & 35WT seem to give a very consistent feel. I went up to 40WT and it was just slightly too stiff, and I tried the factory 30WT and it was too soft.


Yea, theres quit a bit of difference from 30 to 35 weight. 40 would be too much I agree. I tried blue front and rear on the bench and the rear end seems alot more spongy compared to the front end. Gold in the rear feels a little better on the bench. Think Ill start with that set up. Impossible to tell untill I through her down.


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## Courtney Vaughan

I noticed that too! The front end feels COMPLETELY different then the back end with the same springs/oil. I tried putting 50WT in the rear to even the feel out, and they STILL felt softer than the front! None-the-less, I have not tried gold in the rear.......but I like the rear a little saggy on all my offroaders.

If you try the gold and it feels too stiff on the track, don't hesitate to slap those blue on there even though the feel soft......I'm still working on my driving, but my truck is dialed with that setup!


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## Donnie Hayden

I run 50wt with blue springs front and rear on the R.


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## Big Phil

I have 50w in the front with gold springs.And 35w in the rear with silver springs.I found that setup somewhere it was for carpet should work for RCP or blacktop.


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## Courtney Vaughan

ordering your shirt today Phil.....don't think it'll be ready by Saturday or Sunday though


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## Big Phil

Cool i can wait thanks.


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## cjtamu

Courtney Vaughan said:


> I noticed that too! The front end feels COMPLETELY different then the back end with the same springs/oil. I tried putting 50WT in the rear to even the feel out, and they STILL felt softer than the front! None-the-less, I have not tried gold in the rear.......but I like the rear a little saggy on all my offroaders.


The spring rate for a front blue spring isn't the same as a rear blue spring for starters. Add to that the fact that the rear shocks are usually more laid down than the fronts, and the geometry, wheel wights, and balance are also different front to rear. So yeah, they feel different with the same color springs and same weight oil.


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## Courtney Vaughan

makes sense!


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## nik77356

ya with my car, i run 60wt front and rear and need to go up to 80wt in the front!!


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## Gary

nik77356 said:


> ya with my car, i run 60wt front and rear and need to go up to 80wt in the front!!


Get some hose clamps to hold those shock caps on! lol

No dude, way off!


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## nik77356

it really seems to work for me!!! but then again i havent tried that setup on the RCP only my little makeshift track at my house


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## danthrc

I know when I used to run offroad 1/8 we always set the car up soft in the back and firm in the front. That ratio is relative in general but also relative in the type of track your on. If your on a low impact track (small jumps etc.) then the same relative ratio of a thick oil in the front and a thin oil in the rear applies, but the weight of the oil can vary greatly and provide the same results.

In the 118 cars, we dont slam the shocks nearly like larger scales. The cars are too light and the shocks are actually to wimpy. But when you get into 80 wt. oils in the front (IMO) you are going a bit over board.

I bet if you try a setup like 35 front, and 25 rear, set your springs and angles right. The car will be awesome on the RCP track that we run.


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## cjtamu

Your oil wt. has to be in proportion to the spring rate on that end of the car. You don't want to run a light oil with a heavy spring or heavy oil with a light spring. In simplest langauage, the springs control the distance the car moves when a constant force is applied and the oil controls the speed at which that movement happens. I'm running gold springs with 70 wt oil in the front of my truck. The gold springs make the car roll a little later in the corner, so it doesn't have as much turn in but it turns better middle to exit. It also keeps teh front end from compressing so much on The Wall. The 70 wt works because the gold springs are a lot stiffer than the blues. When I tried the blues I ran 40 wt up front, but I thought the car rolled too fast. My lap times came way down and I was more consistent with the golds. When Jose and Guff were talking about how good my truck looked that was with the golds on front. Bottom line Nick, there's no "magic bullet" for setup. First, you have to learn what the changes you make to your car do to it. Then, you have to play around and find what works for you and the way you drive. And setup will change as the track changes because you'll need different things from the car.


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## Gary

Chris, I'm running 35 weight on both ends as well as blue springs. Shock mounts are as per manual. Ride height bones level and 1 1/2 degree camber. Losi Street meats. Anything heavier than 40 weight is way off IMO.


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## Guffinator

Gary's car was definitely dialed today. Of course it's all personal preference.


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## Gary

Guffinator said:


> Gary's car was definitely dialed today. Of course it's all personal preference.


Most definitly. Whats works for me might not work for other guys. If my car works, I like to tell what I did. And hope nobody listens. :spineyes:


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## nik77356

well with the pistons that came with my shocks 60 weight feels like 40 weight.

i ended up changing my whole setup today and they car ran great!!

silver springs and 60wt up front

gold springs and 50 wt in the back


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## nik77356

anybody know where i can get an apogee lipo and losi street treads at the same place?

tower carries apogee lipos but not the one i need


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