# Box Blind Build



## misbhavn (Nov 19, 2010)

I'm in the process of building a box blind that will sit atop a 10' tower. I am building each side as a seperate section so that once complete, I can disassemble it and lift each section up on the tower idividually. I used 2x2's and 1/2" plywood instead of 2x4's in an effort to keep the weight down. All wood is pressure treated.

My windows will be 36" x 10". I set up my shooting rail at 38" and this will be the bottom of my window. My question, for those that have built thier own stands, is whether or not to include a 2x2 across the top of the window? Initially, my plan was to just cut the window out and use hinges screwed directly into the plywood. In the end, the extra support will only weigh a few pounds. Is there anr real advantage to having it? Pics below.


----------



## CHARLIE (Jun 2, 2004)

Kinda almost like I build mine except I use 3/8 plywood for the skin. Have several like that and you can get out for about $150 bucks and have a great blind. I just noticed it appears you didnt put any "slant" on the roof but I guess thats OK


----------



## Salty Dog (Jan 29, 2005)

I frame all the way around the windows with 2x2. Plywood will warp and bow and your windows won't stay as sealed. More bugs get in, more rot, windows bind or don't close easily, etc. Of course YMMV. I frame my window openings and use aluminum framed sliding glass windows. They are really nice and add to my enjoyment but they are alot of money.


----------



## CHARLIE (Jun 2, 2004)

As above by all means trim around windows and doors with 2X2's to keep warping at a minimum.. Also the door itself.


----------



## Law Dog (Jul 27, 2010)

I notice the same thing, no slant on the Roof.....


----------



## misbhavn (Nov 19, 2010)

The plywood warping was my biggest concern. I will go ahead and frame around the windows with the 2x2's. Its really not that much more.

Now I'm trying to decide if i just want to use the piece I cut out for the windows as the actual window or if I want to devise some sort of plexiglass window setup.


----------



## misbhavn (Nov 19, 2010)

Law Dog said:


> I notice the same thing, no slant on the Roof.....


I didn't put a slope on the roof. I will put a piece of plywood on the roof, then screw a tin roof to that with a little bit of overhang. I didn't think the slope on a roof that small would matter much. Perhaps I should have put a slight pitch on it.

This is my first attempt at building one. I imagine there will be a few things I will change when I build my next one.


----------



## CHARLIE (Jun 2, 2004)

Use the plywood you cut out for the window but also cut out in the middle of it and put you plexiglass over the smaller opening. Also trim the cutout with 2X2's too. Another suggestion when you trim around the windows let the 2X2's overhang the opening about 1/2 inch so the window will have something to close tight against.


----------



## Old Timer (Jan 10, 2009)

I trim windows with 1x2's and make the cut 7 x 18 and that gives some corner coverage that conceals you from animals being able to see you through the stand. A peek around the corner is easier than trying to stay still in the opening with animals looking


----------



## Bottomsup (Jul 12, 2006)

I made some window frames out of plastic lattice joiner from Lowes. Then used plexiglass as a sliding window. Maybe you can see from this pic.


----------



## coogerpop (Sep 3, 2009)

I may be in the minority but I DON'T LIKE PLEXIGLASS WINDOWS..... I tried them for a while but they yellow,warp.can't be cleaned well..//all kinds of problems...I put in removable sliding glass windows that I can take the glass panels out,clean and reinstall from the inside...Take them out when and if you have to move the blind and then reinstall...
Normally the blind will have a slight list to one side or the other making a tilted roof unnecessary...but if you use a corrugated material....I Like them slanted.


----------



## SSST (Jun 9, 2011)

As stated above, clear plexiglass will turn off color and become brittle over time. Use shaded Lexan for your windows and they'll last a long, long, time.


----------



## 10ERBETTER (Feb 24, 2008)

I like to have some kind of flashing above the windows to keep water from dripping onto my shooting rail when I'm hunting in the rain. And curtains.


----------



## B-Money (May 2, 2005)

*We can help decorate*

Once done with the build, call. We will take it from there....


----------



## BIG (Jun 24, 2011)

Salty Dog said:


> I frame all the way around the windows with 2x2. Plywood will warp and bow and your windows won't stay as sealed. More bugs get in, more rot, windows bind or don't close easily, etc. Of course YMMV. I frame my window openings and use aluminum framed sliding glass windows. They are really nice and add to my enjoyment but they are alot of money.


X2


----------



## Bottomsup (Jul 12, 2006)

Plexiglass does suck over time but most people wont pay for real glass. As for roofs there is no need to slant the roof on such a small size. Water will run off anyway. If some stands on the corrugated metal roof if wont hurt a thing and will evaporate.


----------



## Salty Dog (Jan 29, 2005)

I look at it as pay now or pay later. It is expensive to buy good glass windows but they last longer, don't yellow and seal tighter. You can sillicon the heck out of them when you put them in which keeps the plywood from rotting around the window cutouts. I also spend the money and time to sink all my screw heads and seal over those. I also caulk and seal all my seams. Then I buy real good primer and paint and I put several coats of primer and a couple coats of paint. Everything is done to stop rot. And that is on top of using all treated and exterior grade wood and coated screws. My roofs are all plywood that is sealed, primed, painted and then put tin over that. I went to great lengths to build blinds that will last a long time, be comfortable and trouble free. So far they are great. Very comfortable and they seal up tight. I have not had a wasp, mud dobber, spider or anything get in them. After a year of use they are still like brand new and I enjoy hunting from them a whole lot. With good chairs in them I can kick back and sit for hours and hours comfortably no matter the weather.

In the past I hunted on a lease where we had a whole lot of half a'd blinds. Yes they work but they don't hold up as near as well and they dang sure are not as comfortable. You can build 'em right the first time or you can rebuild and repair every year.


----------



## CHARLIE (Jun 2, 2004)

Re the plexiglass I certainly do not like the large sliding plexiglass windows anways binding and allow bugs in. But saying that when I build a window I use the plywood cutout with 2X2's on the window and also around the frame (blind). Then cut out maybe a 4X6 opening in the plywood and then apply plexiglass over that opening screwed and sealed. When the WX is bad it is big enough to see out. But as we all know usually the window is open. Had plexiglass used like that for years and never a hint of yellowing.. I am a little scared of real glass because of breakage but,, it's whatever makes you happy. Good huntin folks


----------



## misbhavn (Nov 19, 2010)

I was kind of leaning toward leaving the window cutout and hinging it so that it raises up, then devising some sort of sliding window also. I was thinking of using zbar as tracks and just have the window slide up out of the way.

I like charlie's idea, but a 4x6 window is way too small for me.


----------



## misbhavn (Nov 19, 2010)

I framed out the windows today. I was going to put the roof on but I ran out of deck screws...figures. I will probably put on the exterior walls and finish it out this weekend, except for paint. I will post pics of the progress and what I decide to do for windows.

Should I wait a season to paint? I have always heard not to paint pressure treated wood until it dries out, otherwise the paint doesn't adhere well. On the other hand, I really don't want to have to paint this thing in the field either.


----------



## CHARLIE (Jun 2, 2004)

Regarding the 4X6 plexiglass, thats just a starting point you can cutout as much of the plywood as you want and that depends on how big the original cutout is. Again be sure to frame in the window itself with 2X2's cuz it will warp if not and also it makes a much better seal


----------



## misbhavn (Nov 19, 2010)

Took some time this weekend to put up the walls. I got the windows and door up and started some painting in the hard to reach areas. I just need to paint the outside, get my plexiglass put in and metal on the roof and I'm done.


----------



## Law Dog (Jul 27, 2010)

It Looking Great, Congrats!


----------



## CHARLIE (Jun 2, 2004)

Wow looking very good. Looks just like mine. You can cut you an opening now in the plywood window as big as you want and then glue and screw plexiglass to them. Works good.Where your 2X2's cometogether on the lower side of the window I drill a hole just a tad bigger than 1/4 inch and then slide 1/4 inch bolt down through the 2X2's to lock them closed. Also use 200# dacron to pull the window open through a small hole drilled above the window in the wall of the blind.Put a loop in the line and put about 3 pins spaced apart so you can set the window to whatever opening you want full open, almost open, and then maybe half open if its raining.


----------



## bh96 (Jan 15, 2012)

Trust me put a shelf in it. In the smaller 4x4 blinds I like to put them in the front two cornern. This allows me to store all my kids **** that is a must to have if I plan on having a good hunt. You know like a psp ipod game boy and etc. And put one above the door about a foot below the ceiling that is where I keep my propane heaters and toilet paper. lol


----------



## Swampus (Sep 1, 2005)

I use 1/4" plexi cut to remove if needed and put on the floor--also a shelf is a must for binos cam etc.

I also put ties all around.

4 x 4 x 6' 4" (1/8" plexi here)
4 x 6 x 6' 4"---just re painted it this year and still strong.

swamp


----------



## CHARLIE (Jun 2, 2004)

Regarding shelves, just cut you a piece of leftover plywood at 45degrees and put in the corners in the front. Screw them to the 2X2's after you put it together.. I promise you that blind is exactly like mine. U sure you havent been peeking ? Make sure that door has plenty of 2X2's to keep it from warping.. they are bad about that.. Also, put you a little eyebrow 1X2 over each window to keep water from running in the window

Swampus 
sorry but the sliding plexiglass just doesent work for me.. Always stuck or allow bugs in. Jus sayin.. I like a good seal tight window.. 

another thing this blind can be taken apart and put back together up in the air. Its not a one piece deal. All can be laid flat when transporting.


----------



## misbhavn (Nov 19, 2010)

CHARLIE said:


> Regarding shelves, just cut you a piece of leftover plywood at 45degrees and put in the corners in the front. Screw them to the 2X2's after you put it together.. I promise you that blind is exactly like mine. U sure you havent been peeking ? Make sure that door has plenty of 2X2's to keep it from warping.. they are bad about that.. Also, put you a little eyebrow 1X2 over each window to keep water from running in the window
> 
> Swampus
> sorry but the sliding plexiglass just doesent work for me.. Always stuck or allow bugs in. Jus sayin.. I like a good seal tight window..
> ...


You and I must think a lot alike. I planned on doing exactly what you described for my shelves. I will have two corner shelves in the front and one along the back wall above the door. I will pre-fit them and then install once its erected. Once completed, this thing will come apart in six pieces (4 walls, floor and roof).

The outside windows will stay as is. Im gonna have some plexi windows that will slide up" and down behind the wood windows. For the flashing over the windows and doors, I was planning to use some roof flashing or drip edge.


----------



## Profish00 (May 21, 2004)

A funnel and waterhose out the bottom will save on trips to the woods.


----------



## CHARLIE (Jun 2, 2004)

Here's a small window like I do..


----------



## llred (Jun 30, 2008)

Profish00 said:


> A funnel and waterhose out the bottom will save on trips to the woods.


You mean you don't just hang it out the window and let it rip?


----------



## misbhavn (Nov 19, 2010)

Well, I got everything painted this evening. The plexi windows and metal roof are all that still need to be added.

I put a little homemade camo job on it. Probably not the ideal camo pattern for the hill country, but I think it looks decent for my first attempt at camo. If I had it to again, I would add in more black underneath.

Here it is in OD green.










Here we go with some black added and some brown branches.










and here is the finished product with some light green and khaki leaves.


----------



## CHARLIE (Jun 2, 2004)

Man you otta take up painting. Maybe like an artist or something. But if you painted it blaze orange the deer wouldnt care. Everything looks very good on your blind. I am curious on how you end up with the plexiglass. Be sure and show a picture.


----------



## Ninjazx9rrida (Jun 11, 2006)

The one that i built last yr was almost identicle to this. only difference is i used plywood pieces with the centers cut out and plexi screwed into them for windows. They were hinged on the inside and folded up. 3 on the front, 1 on each side. ( 5' x 7' blind ) . i opened the exterior plywood windows once i got in the blind, then only had to open a smaller plexi window to shoot.


----------



## ROCKSPRINGS HUNTER (Dec 14, 2008)

blind looks good. 
You should have made the door taller. U dont want your gun barrel or your face to hit that plywood at 5am and scare all the deer away with that loud BOOF!


----------



## misbhavn (Nov 19, 2010)

ROCKSPRINGS HUNTER said:


> blind looks good.
> You should have made the door taller. U dont want your gun barrel or your face to hit that plywood at 5am and scare all the deer away with that loud BOOF!


Trust me, I considered making the door taller. I have already konked my head a couple of times on it, but I'm going to be climbing in from a 10' tower, plus I wanted to have enough room to put a small shelf over the door. The door is currently 54 x 24. This should easily allow about 14" between the shelf and the roof.

I've climbed in doors much smaller than this one. I hate the trap doors with a passion.


----------



## ROCKSPRINGS HUNTER (Dec 14, 2008)

Yeah, I hate them doors underneath the blinds. 
I have a friend that went on a hunt and started climbling the stand and saw that the door was on the bottom. He said he climb right back down hunted a cedar bush 10 yards from the feeder. He said he woke up to corn slamming him in the face from the feeder going off.

He said..... He saw the biggest buck he ever seen but decieded to pass because he want to shoot a spike..


----------



## misbhavn (Nov 19, 2010)

CHARLIE said:


> I am curious on how you end up with the plexiglass. Be sure and show a picture.


Here is what I did with the plexiglass...

I mounted a 3/4 x 3/4 strip horizontally along the bottom as a stop for the plexi, then took some plastic lattice cap and mounted it vertically as a guide for the plexi. The plexi actually slide really well in the plastic channel. I could have used 1/4" plexi, but went cheap with the 1/8".

I put in a cheap wooden knob at the top to lift it and will make some sort of strap that will hang on the hook I will be using for the wooden outer window.

Now I can raise the outer window and still keep the plexi lowered as a wind block on those really cold, windy days.


----------



## CHARLIE (Jun 2, 2004)

Looks good to me. Plastic lattice cap, I am not sure where to find that or what it is but I like the idea. I still kinda lean towards my idea with the windows saves a little work. Can close the windows and still see out but thats why there are Fords and Chevys. Good job..


----------



## CHARLIE (Jun 2, 2004)

Another note be a good idea to tie a string on the 1/4 inch bolts that you are using to lock the windows. Those things have a habit of disappearing somehow.


----------



## jeff womack (May 26, 2004)

I had a friend tell me a few years ago he paints the ceiling "sky blue" and the wasps don't build nest up there. I tried it on a couple of mine and have not had any wasps for 2 years. Maybe a coincidence but I plan to do it in the next 2 I build this year. 
Stand looks good!!


----------



## Bukkskin (Oct 21, 2009)

Nice blind, Great job on the camo.


----------



## CHARLIE (Jun 2, 2004)

Dont forget the "eyebrow" over the windows


----------



## misbhavn (Nov 19, 2010)

CHARLIE said:


> Dont forget the "eyebrow" over the windows


I'm on it. I still have a few loose ends to tie up...literally. I still have to run my string to hold all of the windows up, need to put the tin on the roof, install some flashing over the windows and put a piece of carpet in it.

I went by a carpet place yesterday and got a small piece of used carpet out of the dumpster to throw in it.

Thanks for all of the input. I will be sure to get a pic of it once its erected.


----------



## CHARLIE (Jun 2, 2004)

Congratulations 

You will love it.


----------



## herefishy (Jul 9, 2004)

*Nice Blind*

Good job on the camo, any pointers on how you painted it? Like to do that to the one I'm building.


----------



## misbhavn (Nov 19, 2010)

herefishy said:


> Good job on the camo, any pointers on how you painted it? Like to do that to the one I'm building.


The camo was really not hard at all. I just started with my base color, which was an olive green. You could also start with a khaki base if you wanted. I started with the darkest color and moved through all the way to the lightest. I used black, brown, light green and khaki. The key is to be random about the patterns...just like in nature.

I just picked a few things out of my back yard and used them for templates and spray painted over them. The brown braches are from an ash tree. The light green leaves are from an oak tree and the khaki leaves are actually a small palm frond. I tried to only spray toward the top of the frond to give it more of a marshgrass look.

First, I started with black and basically just painted thick black stripes on it in random directions. The black is what will give you the shadowing. I wish I would have used a bit more black on mine.

Next, I took my branch and laid it against the wall and just sprayed over it. Do this randomly on all sides. Make sure you get a branch with a couple of forks in it. One of the pics above show it at this point with just the brown and black.

After that, I used the light green to spray over the oak leaves and finally the khaki over the palm fronds.

It took me a couple of hours to do it, but it wasn't hard to do. make sure you spray some patterns along the edges of the walls to break up the silhouette a little.

At the end of the day, as Charlie pointed out in an earlier post, it really doesn't matter what color it is as long as you get it in place and let the animals get used to it.


----------



## llred (Jun 30, 2008)

If you have wooden covers over the windows I like to paint them black. That way when they are open it isn't a big surprise to the animals. Yes they know something is up when they come out and that box now has a giant opening on 4 sides of it.


----------



## herefishy (Jul 9, 2004)

Thanks for the info. That is how i figured you did it. I tend to agree with Charlie's point. It is more for me than the deer....


----------



## CHARLIE (Jun 2, 2004)

jtupper

Dont get me wrong I love your stand. I was just bored and wanted to see if I could get a good conversation started. Good huntin.


----------



## Main Frame 8 (Mar 16, 2007)

If I may make one suggestion.............toss a couple extra bucks in and run some 2x2's vertically in those walls- 4 feet of plywood without any support is going to warp- I would have at least one, if not 2 per wall. I know u want to keep the weight down but I think you will be glad you did it.

Also, corrugated tin with a little overlap on all sides will save you some headaches as well. Nothing like a good nap when you have a little rain thumping on that tin.


----------



## CHARLIE (Jun 2, 2004)

Corrugated roof, man you talk aboiut a buzzin sound when the bee's find the openings especially after you spray them with wasp killer.. If you use corrugated tin please make sure the ends are plugged. Other than that its great..


----------



## Viking48 (Jan 24, 2006)

For what it's worth, here is how I did my windows. Used aluminum c channel from Home Depot on the sides (outside) then attached a strap from Academy to the inside of the blind. This way I can raise or lower the window with my hands below the window and no movement visible. Can leave them up if it's cold and windy or drop them when it's more pleasant. I also don't like trapdoors or climbing in from a ladder (missed my hand hold once from 10' up) so I built stairs and a porch. Makes it much easier and safer.


----------



## Main Frame 8 (Mar 16, 2007)

CHARLIE said:


> Corrugated roof, man you talk aboiut a buzzin sound when the bee's find the openings especially after you spray them with wasp killer.. If you use corrugated tin please make sure the ends are plugged. Other than that its great..


 Mine get a bead of great stuff foam inside and out for just this reason.


----------



## misbhavn (Nov 19, 2010)

Well, I finally got around to tying up all the loose ends. She's now complete. I put a piece of carpet on the floor, installed the metal on the roof and plugged the holes on the ends with great stuff. Here are a couple of pics of how I rigged up the windows.



















Here are a few pics of the finished product - minus the roof.




























Last, but not least, here is the completed product showing the tear down procedure. I took this apart in less than 10 minutes and it will easily lay down in the back of a pickup truck.


----------



## llred (Jun 30, 2008)

now you just need a window unit and some solar power


----------



## CHARLIE (Jun 2, 2004)

Very nice but I have a suggestion. Put more 2X2's across the door and the door window cuz I promise they are gonna warp. Eyebrow's may should have been lower to the window to keep the water from running in the top crack but I see you did it higher in order to get the window to open a little higher. My windows only open to about 90 degrees from the wall. Jus sayin Also mite say a very nice job. How many you gonna make? Just noticed another thing, all the 2X2's are not painted probably should do that..

Again a damm good job. I want one !!!


----------



## misbhavn (Nov 19, 2010)

I only plan to build this one for now. I have another blind that needs some work and I will pprobably have to replace that one in the next couople of years.

I painted all of the parts I thought might get wet. All of the 2x2's are pressure treated so I'm not really worried about painting them. If they were exposed, I would paint them.

I contemplated putting the drip edge closer to the windows. I still may end up doing that at some point.


----------



## misbhavn (Nov 19, 2010)

I finally got the blind up this weekend and I said I would post pics. Here is the finished product. It went together easily. It toook longer to set up all the guy wires than to put the blind together.


----------



## CHARLIE (Jun 2, 2004)

Dang it I wanted to see it all set up I know its gonna be great but all I can see are the lil r ed X's. I can never open them up


----------



## misbhavn (Nov 19, 2010)

It's on my end. I'm trying to upload from a cell phone and it ain't cooperating. I'm working on it.


----------



## misbhavn (Nov 19, 2010)

Let's try again.


----------



## Whitebassfisher (May 4, 2007)

Your stand is great!

I would paint the inside flat black though, makes it dark inside like you are looking out of a cave. You can see out, they can't see in.


----------



## CHARLIE (Jun 2, 2004)

Very good and very professional. Wish my carpentry work was that good. congratulations


----------

