# Curado 200E7 Clutch Bar/Guide Question



## Outearly (Nov 17, 2009)

I have a 200E7 that is owned by one of my youngsters, it has seen a bit of hard use.

The clutch bar is tough to push down, and just looking at it, it looks like the bar flexes enough to put a lot of friction on the clutch bar guide. I lubed it, doesn't seem to make any difference.

I took the reel apart, and there could be some similar flex and friction between the clutch plate and the reel body, but it doesn't seem as obvious as the clutch bar and guide. It seems to work the same whether or not the pinion gear is in or not, so I don't think that is the issue. 

Any ideas? Thanks.


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## bubbas kenner (Sep 4, 2010)

Did you clean the middle of the pinion gear external and apply grease to frame under clutch bar guide? Is the thumb bar free when taken apart.


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## Outearly (Nov 17, 2009)

I'll try the grease. Thumb bar (clutch bar) still binds when taken apart


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## Dipsay (Apr 28, 2006)

one of 3 possibilities as I see it.
the yoke is corroded not allowing pinion gear to float freely and bind. 

there is corrosion inside the pinion gear and on spool shaft not allowing pinion to pull free from spool shaft

there is rust on the ID of the pinion bearing and OD part of that pinion gear where it goes through not allowing pinion to pull free from bearing( most likely reason)

Hope this helps..Dip


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## Outearly (Nov 17, 2009)

Dipsay said:


> one of 3 possibilities as I see it.
> the yoke is corroded not allowing pinion gear to float freely and bind.
> 
> there is corrosion inside the pinion gear and on spool shaft not allowing pinion to pull free from spool shaft
> ...


Great, all logical. The pins on the yoke were rough (weird, junky material for a part that needs to be smooth, IMO). I smoothed those with a grinding wheel.

Also some of the crappus blackuss I found around the clutch plate felt like it had a lot sand/grit in it, bought a cheapo parts cleaner and have that cleaned out.

I'll test/check the rest. Many thanks. I know this is your business and I appreciate the help. I just like fooling around with it all.


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## Outearly (Nov 17, 2009)

Bubba and Dip, many thanks, it's working perfectly.

I bought one of those inexpensive Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaners, used Simple Green/water. Really useful little device.


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## bubbas kenner (Sep 4, 2010)

Outearly said:


> Bubba and Dip, many thanks, it's working perfectly.
> 
> I bought one of those inexpensive Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaners, used Simple Green/water. Really useful little device.


Your welcome buddy,I learned what I know right here like your doing,keep asking questions and keep doing them cleanings,I enjoy it.


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## bubbas kenner (Sep 4, 2010)

bubbas kenner said:


> Your welcome buddy,I learned what I know right here like your doing,keep asking questions and keep doing them cleanings,I enjoy it.


This should humble Dipsay,and Dan Thorton both of them have been here to answer all my questions for five years now.i never took a reel apart until I was on this site,heck I have bought a few just to have some to work on.


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## gman1772 (Jul 15, 2012)

Outearly said:


> I have a 200E7 that is owned by one of my youngsters, it has seen a bit of hard use.
> 
> The clutch bar is tough to push down, and just looking at it, it looks like the bar flexes enough to put a lot of friction on the clutch bar guide. I lubed it, doesn't seem to make any difference.
> 
> ...


Yep. Take it to Dipsay and let him fix it. Simple.


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## Dan Thorburn (Dec 18, 2013)

The material you are describing on the yoke pins is from corrosion. This part is chrome plated and will corrode if not taken care of. Normally they are smooth. It is a cheap part to replace if the damage is extensive.


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## Outearly (Nov 17, 2009)

Dan Thorburn said:


> The material you are describing on the yoke pins is from corrosion. This part is chrome plated and will corrode if not taken care of. Normally they are smooth. It is a cheap part to replace if the damage is extensive.


"Not taken care of" is the operative phrase. Definitely wasn't in this case.

By the way, Dan, your past posts and clear answers to questions have been great resources.


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## Dan Thorburn (Dec 18, 2013)

Thanks for the kind words. I've been doing this for a while now and have been with Shimano for over 12 years. I hope I am giving good info by now.


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## JimD (May 25, 2004)

You get good info here. My rule is if I can take it apart and keep it probably a little over lobed it is supper. 

If parts start going bad or too corroded the it is time to spend a few buck and get one of the Dipsay or someone to just fix it. It is a pain to get some of the parts in the right size. 

Dipsay helped me get the right bearings for my E7's and my old superfree and they are almost as good as my original super free but not quite. Cheap deal to replace the bearings in the reels and if not over oiled make it just like new. 

Little tricky with the old orig greenies with the third bearing on the spool but the newer 2 bearing set ups are quick and simple and for under 20 from BOCA a steal.


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