# Bob's Low water Pick-up



## Rip-N-Lips (May 25, 2004)

Anybody have any experience w/ Bob's low water pick-up? I've got a 21' majek redfish w/ a 140 tohatsu that I'm considering getting one put on. Don't really want to drop the lower unit and ship it to Florida, but I think the boat would do much better w/ it. As it is now I can hardly jack the motor up or trim it out at about 3/4 throttle for any length of time with out the over heat alarm going off.


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## Dieselpowerman (Oct 29, 2004)

I have one on my 175 Johnson. It was on the motor when I bought it. I can run with the jackplate all the way up without overheating the motor. Also, my water pressure is 10 psi at idle and 27 psi when running. I am very pleased with the motor's performance.

Bob's cuts the front of the LU off with a plasma torch, then welds on the low water nosecone. They blend the 2 halves together with epoxy. This epoxy will crack and eventually start to flake off. It will also trap water behind it and cause some corrosion of the alumimum LU housing. I re-epoxied mine twice before I finally just gave up and lived with it. Other than this, the low water pickup is flawless.


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## Solid Action (May 21, 2004)

I had one put on my 175 Yamaha ProV last year. It kept overheating when I would run shallow for any length of time. I have been very happy with it. Can't compare water pressures b/c I added a water pressure guage after I put the low water pickup on. It runs around 20-22psi right now and my alarm hasn't gone off since I put it on. 

It can be a pain shipping it to FL, but I think it is well worth it. I think it cost me around $65-$70 just to ship it. 

Make sure everything is good on the powerhead before putting it on. I had a weak seal somewhere and the increase in water pressure somehow caused water to get in a cylinder and had a rod go. But after the powerhead rebuild everything is running great.


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## Rip-N-Lips (May 25, 2004)

Thanks guys. That's what I wanted to hear. I talked to the people at Bob's the other day and they said it would be $319 plus the shipping. I also talked to the people at Busha Boatworks in Bay City and they said they charge $299 + $80 shipping each way + tax. I guess I'm looking at around $500? I'm sure it will be well worth the $$$$.


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## Dieselpowerman (Oct 29, 2004)

If your company has an account with a motor freight company like SAIA or Central Freight you will save on shipping. I would get insurance on it too. Don't send it UPS unless you put it in a wooden crate, they tend to handle packages roughly.

I used to launch at C&W marina in CC, but the seagrass was too bad. The southeast wind pushes it into the cove and the low water pickup sucks it up. I had to stop and clean out my thermostats every time I launched there.

If I had a new motor, I would send the LU to Bob's for another low water pickup. I have been pleased with how the motor performs in shallow water.


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## shallowsporter (Jul 6, 2004)

*Bob's low water pick up*

On any tunnel boat that is truely used in shallow water a low water pick up should be a must not an option. I have a Bob's on my engine and love it. Never had a problem with it and my water pressure remains strong even when jacked all the way up and running in inches of water. It is money well spent - I am on my second one since I changed engines but the first engine also had one with zero problems. I also have a Bob's jackplate that has been very reliable and ultra fast as well - would gladly buy both of these in the future. For what it is worth by boat is a Shallowsport and I normally fish POC which has some fairly skinny areas.

PS - when you order your low water pick up make sure to get a couple of the bungi style cord that is used to mought the fresh water connector to the front cone. I have lost the cord two times already.


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## LA Cox (Oct 19, 2004)

Does the addition of a Bob's low water pick up effect the warranty?? My 2004 Yamaha 150 Vmax HPDI overheats when it's left idling for any period of time, but has gotten better after 60 hours. I haven't had any problems with it overheating when running shallow. I'm just curious about the warranty issue.

Late,
LA Cox


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## Team Ranger Bob (Jul 13, 2004)

*Sliced bread*

If Bob builds it, it is the greatest thing since sliced bread.

I run the low water pickup, the jack plate, the cavitation plate and also have a set of wedges bought from Bob.

He is easy to talk to and their customer service is second to none.

Bobs low water pick ups flow better than factory pickups.

Ranger Bob
Team Ranger Bob proudly supports these fine sponsors.


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## Dieselpowerman (Oct 29, 2004)

LA Cox,
I don't know about the warranty issue with the LU. There is a fix for TRP motors overheating that involves drilling out a bypass hole on the water pump housing to 3/16". Search around the internet for it and you will find some discussions. I don't know if it would work with your HDPI, but I'm sure that this problem has been tackled before. 

There is no reason for any outboard motor to overheat unless there is something blocking a water passage (grass, mud, dirt dobber nest, etc.). These motors are so expensive that they should perform flawlessly.

Rip-N-Lips, let us know if you get the low water pickup and how it performs. Trend your current temperature and water pressure so that you can have a baseline to compare to.

Another tip for those who run shallow is to have one temp gauge for each cylinder head (assuming you have a V6). If you suck up mud or grass or have a thermostat that sticks, you can isolate the problem quickly.


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## redman71 (Jan 11, 2005)

I had the same overheat problem that you have. I sent my lower unit off to Bob's and had the PU installed. I had a little bit of trouble getting water pressure when I put things back together on my 70hp Yamaha. Although I'm not sure I got the water pump back together right. I did not disassemble the water pump before I shipped it. I had asked them if they would take care of the water pump also. They said they would if they had the kit in stock. Well they didn't and I got my water pump back in pieces. I didn't see it come apart so I wasn't positive I had it back together correctly. Even with the schematic at hand.


They will add about 1 1/2" to the front of the lower unit. If you have a foil like the Nedski it may no longer fit. I was a little surprised when I got the LU back and I couldn't get the foil back on. I sold the boat before I was able to put the foil back on, but I was looking at another trip to Kehma to see Ned. Good Luck!


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## Rip-N-Lips (May 25, 2004)

Thanks for all the info guys. I'll be sending the LU off as soon as I get the money. Hope my Nedski fits back on there. If not I guess I'll just have to spend some more money. hahaha.


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## Sgrem (Oct 5, 2005)

Tohatsu is not like the others mentioned...they work on volume not pressure....if my gauge shows any pressure off of zero im good....usually run about 3 (three) psi with jack plate down and wide open. when jacked half way up and trimmed it will go to 1 psi and can run like that allllllll day. i have to ease up if i jack it higher and lesser RPM cruise thru really shallow areas. its a 2003 tohatsu 90 TLDI...
i was thinking of getting a LWP but havent yet....just to be able to run it a little higher/shallower.
i have heard both sides saying it cant hurt and tohatsu saying dont do it and even Bob's saying that on a tohatsu some have not liked it....sorry to muddy the waters but i went through this last summer.
Please let us know how it works out.


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## CaptDocHoliday (Feb 3, 2011)

This thread is 7 years old.......


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## Sgrem (Oct 5, 2005)

HA....i see that now....brain on automatic...


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## cottonpicker (Jan 25, 2010)

Agree with all said EXCEPT that they cut off the original lu with plasma cutter. This is false and would weaken the gear case and allow the lu lube to be more vulnerable to water intrusion. They simpley slip over the original lu. PS They work great!


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## Dieselpowerman (Oct 29, 2004)

I stand corrected about having to cut the gearcase. I redid the epoxy before I sold my old boat with the low water pickup. After I ground off the old chipped epoxy you could clearly see that the nose cone was just welded to the front of the gear case. I wish I would have taken pictures.

Has anyone ran a LWP for any length of time (years) and not had the epoxy chip off or crack? Maybe we can get 7 years low water pickup experience in this thread!


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## krusty0001 (Nov 3, 2006)

Dieselpowerman said:


> Has anyone ran a LWP for any length of time (years) and not had the epoxy chip off or crack? Maybe we can get 7 years low water pickup experience in this thread!


Diesel, My Bob's low water has been peeling steadily for 5 years. It started peeling ~3yrs after installation (8yrs total). It's been peeling slowly, so I can't say if its effected the boats performance dramatically...

Did you remove all the old epoxy? Currently, I've removed the loose stuff with a screw driver. I've started working the paint with sandpaper. There's still a lot of "Bobs" epoxy left, but it seems to be sticking fairly well. I'm thinking I'll need a dremel to get to the remaining, if required.


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## krusty0001 (Nov 3, 2006)

*Update- Bob's low water pickup refinish*

I've been making progress on the lower unit. It's not perfect. But for my first painting experience, it's not bad. The shiny white paint brought out every imperfection. Next time, I'll spend more time working/sanding the epoxy. From 10' away it looks pretty good. Also, next time, the final touch will be a "fairing" epoxy on top of the filler epoxy (fairing is thinner)

The first pic shows how the gap was filled using West Systems 610. The second pic shows the 3rd coat of epoxy after it has dried. The third pic is the zinc chromate primer (Moeller 025472). The last pic is the first coat of paint (Moeller 25461). One more light sand and paint coat and I should be done :cheers:


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## cottonpicker (Jan 25, 2010)

look's great--good job


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