# Calcutta 700 Reel Part



## Capt. Carman

Hi, 

I need a part for one of my Calcutta 700's please. It's the shaft that the handle goes on and the retaining nut screws on with the nut cover. 

Any help is greatly appreciated.

CC


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## MattK

First we need to figure out which model you have.

I have added some links to the schematics for the various models of the Calcutta 700 series. There are a few differences that can help you determine which model you have. The 700 and 700S have a push button to engage/disengage the spool. The CTE700 and the CT700B have a lever. Also, the 700 and 700s have a wooden handle knob; the CTE-700 and the CT700B have the rubber handle knobs.

CT700 (has levelwind)
http://fish.shimano.com/media/fishing/SAC/techdocs/en/Round_Baitcasting/96CT700_v1_m56577569830641852.pdf

CT700S (no levelwind)
http://fish.shimano.com/media/fishing/SAC/techdocs/en/Round_Baitcasting/96CT700S_v1_m56577569830641853.pdf

CTE700
http://fish.shimano.com/media/fishing/SAC/techdocs/en/Round_Baitcasting/01CTE700_v1_m56577569830570298.pdf

CT-700B
http://fish.shimano.com/media/fishing/SAC/techdocs/en/Round_Baitcasting/05CT700B_v1_m56577569830570315.pdf

Hope this helps


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## Capt. Carman

Matt, 

PM sent. 

Thanks !

CC


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## Bantam1

Thanks for the help while I was out Matt!


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## MattK

Bantam1 said:


> Thanks for the help while I was out Matt!


No prob.


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## MattK

So, while exchanging PMs with the Capt. the question came up of how hard is it to change out the drive shaft on the Calcutta 700? It just so happens that I had one here that I was about to work on so I offered to post up some "how to" pics to help him out. This is not a "how to" on cleaning the reel but it's always a good idea to clean the reel if you're going this far into it. Before someone asks, the reel had not been cleaned when the pics were taken.

Also, it's a good idea to print out a copy of the schematics to use as a reference while working on your reels.

Here we go! Drive shaft replacement of the CT700.









First thing to do is remove the Handle Nut Cap, Handle Nut (10mm), Handle, Friction Washer, Star Drag, Star Drag Washer, and Spring Washers. Lay them out in the order in which they were removed. Take note of the shape of the spring washers (4). There is a certain way they need to be re-installed and the schematics have done an excellent job of illustrating this detail.









Next remove the right side plate assembly by loosening the three thumb screws and gently wiggling it off the spool shaft and frame. Set the frame/spool aside and remove the side plate screws (BNT1738) from the right side assembly. Pull the side plate straight up and off the drive shaft. Take note while removing the Plastic Gear Plate (Gear Cover/Shield, BNT1751) so you know how it goes back together.
You're left with this:









Next, the first thing I remove is the yoke springs (BNT1754) to get them out of the way. Then remove the Roller Clutch Inner Tube, Drive Gear with Drag Washers, Anti-Reverse Ratchet, Pinion gear with Pinion yoke. When removing the gears I usually pull the Drive Gear up a little then take the Pinion Gear out so it doesn't get damaged. On this reel it's a bit easier because the Pinion Yoke Posts/Yoke Pins (BNT1759) can be removed by pulling them straight up. It also makes it easier to re-install the Pinion gear after the Drive Gear has been re-installed.

If you've been laying your parts out in the order in which they came off your work station should look something like this.









Now lets get that Drive Shaft out of there. On the under side of the set plate you will see the E Clip that secures the Drive Shaft in place.









To remove the E Clip gently pry it off with a small screw driver. I usually just put my thumb over the clip and screwdriver to prevent the clip from flying off when I pry it off but another suggestion, for the less experienced, is to use the bag method as mentioned in this post: http://2coolfishing.com/ttmbforum/showpost.php?p=1640332&postcount=3 .









Remove the E Clip and Washer then pull the Drive Shaft out. There is a brass washer (Retraction Cam Washer, BNT1748) that may or may not come out with the Drive Shaft; sometimes it sticks to the Retraction Cam. It's really just a spacer so keep an eye out for it because the reel won't work very well without it. Once the Shaft has been removed you can push the Drive Shaft Bushing out. Note that the Drive Shaft Bushing has a flat side which coincides with a flat side on the Set Plate. Pic time!









Now put it all back together. Put either a little grease or oil on the section of the Drive Shaft that goes through the bushing making sure the washer/spacer is in place. Secure with washer and E Clip. Give the drive shaft a twist and make sure it's not binding. There will be a little play in the shaft but it will straighten up when everything else goes back on.









When putting the Pinion Gear and Pinion Yoke back in place note that one side of the Yoke has "ramps" for smooth disengaging of the spool. The "ramps" face down.









It's always a good idea to re-grease the gears and Drag Washers while you're in there. Also, make sure the Roller Clutch Inner Tube is seated properly in the key washer before putting the Side Plate back on; and don't forget about the Plastic Gear Shield, it also needs to be in place before you put on the Side Plate.

One last thing, before re-installing the handle put a little grease on both sides of the handle shank where the drive shaft hole is. It doesn't take much, just a little to help prevent the corrosion between the brass Drive Shaft and the aluminum Handle body. Usually I'll use it sparingly on the star drag side of the handle and just slap it on on the Handle Nut side. Then I wipe away the excess after I've put the Handle Nut Cover back on. It seems to help prevent this from happening:









Hope this helps. If you have any questions feel free to give me a call.


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## Bantam1

You have too much time on your hands


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## MattK

Bantam1 said:


> You have too much time on your hands


Na, I just type fast and know my reels


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