# Battery/lights/stalling issue with Ranger



## texastkikker (Dec 24, 2008)

Gents,

Currently have a 2010 Polaris Ranger 500 EFI. Has about 80 hrs. on it. I bought it from a buddy 1.5 years ago when it had only 44 hrs.!!!!!!
Had all fluids changed at that time to make sureâ€¦â€¦.also put in an odyssey battery and all has been good.

I have 4 @ 2â€ sq. cube lights on the frontâ€¦..1 @ 1â€x6â€ light on the backâ€¦â€¦.1 @ small Red Dome light in the cab.
When I turn all lights as well as the factory headlights and the ranger is at idle it will die after about a minute.

I donâ€™t really drive it all that muchâ€¦..live on 5 acres and use it on the weekends here and there hauling logsâ€¦â€¦during yard workâ€¦â€¦..etcâ€¦.â€¦â€¦.longest it goes without being run is 2 weeks at a time.

Occasionally we will take it to the ranch but donâ€™t need to as we have rangers there alreadyâ€¦â€¦goes to the ranch once a year during thanksgiving when there are a lot of people there and the extra vehicle is nice to have.

Just added a wetsounds sound bar last night and I am now thinking that it will be best if I put in a second battery with an isolator. What say you 2cool?

What isolator is everybody running?


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## Spots and Dots (May 23, 2004)

so, here's what i've been told.....

The # of amps your equip draws versus what the battery and solenoid put out is what causes your "Lo Amp" to illuminate and make your buggy shut down.

Adding a second battery will not increase the # amps you have but will extend the run time before Lo Amps becomes a problem.


I have a 50" lightbar and have a similar issue if I run with my regular headlights on. I've been looking to add a battery but 3 guys have given me the same rationale. You could also consider an AGM battery but they are expensive (prob a lil more than the isolator and extra battery).


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## DIHLON (Nov 15, 2009)

I think you would be better off upgrading your stator to an alternator. They sell these as a kit. Then you won't need a second battery.


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## texastkikker (Dec 24, 2008)

Spots and Dots said:


> so, here's what i've been told.....
> 
> The # of amps your equip draws versus what the battery and solenoid put out is what causes your "Lo Amp" to illuminate and make your buggy shut down.
> 
> ...


rgr that.....already have a $200 battery.


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## easoutdoors (Jun 4, 2004)

*amp draw/voltage*

Check the battery first. Take it and get it tested.

Try connecting a digital volt meter on the battery.
Engine not running you should have 12 plus volts.
Start the engine and see that it is charging, 13 plus volts.
Start turning accessories on and check your meter between each.
If you keep turning things on and it drops below 12 volts you have added too many accessories for the alternator to keep up.
When the engine is at idle the alternator output is lower than at higher rpms. 
Adding a second battery would help at idle. But the alternator upgrade would be a better choice.
Also look to see where all the added accessories are getting power. There is a power distribution block under the hood on the drivers side. 
This would be a better option than splicing into the harness and causing a voltage drop on the ignition circuit instead of a fused lead from the battery.
I have a 20" light bar and 2-4" spots on mine with no problems.


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## texastkikker (Dec 24, 2008)

easoutdoors said:


> Check the battery first. Take it and get it tested.
> 
> Try connecting a digital volt meter on the battery.
> Engine not running you should have 12 plus volts.
> ...


i will check it out.....i do know that everything is wired into the bus bar so that they are only "hot" when the key is on......didn't want the kids jacking around with it when it is in the garage and leave things on.


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