# Fuji sk2 with eva split grip!



## okmajek (May 29, 2012)

I am building a rod for a friend , it's a 6'2" st Croix with a SK2 seat and EVA split grips .. Well For me , Difficulty level between this and a cork and regular seat build are night and day ! Getting everything where it goes with a pile of epoxy setting up will kinda test your patience... It looks right to me , but I am going to check it at lunch and see how it dried?
The winding checks kept wanting to push away from the foam when I put it together with epoxy. I really made sure they were fitting good before hand . Is this something that happens with all hard winding checks?
The rubber ones really stay in place nicely.. I used Fuji hard plastic for this , but I was wanting to use some Aluminum in the future ...


----------



## katjim00 (Jan 8, 2009)

My first guess would be too much adhesive causing it to push away or slide a direction other than center. Just a guess on my part, I am sure others here probably know for sure though.


----------



## okmajek (May 29, 2012)

I just checked it,, yes I agree to much epoxy.. Is there anything that will remove a small amount from the foam ?


----------



## TXFishSlayer (Apr 28, 2014)

What I normally do is add a wrap of blue painting tape to the outside of the winding check to make sure it stays flush against the cork/eva/reel seat while the epoxy starts setting up. After the epoxy gets a chance to firm up, normally an hour or two, I pull the tape off and the winding check stays put. Cheap easy trick that's worked for me. Hope this helps.


----------



## okmajek (May 29, 2012)

It set in a good position.but my tape wrap on the tapered end of rear grip let a little bit get on the grip right on top! hopefully I can clean it up some more this evening..
Thanks for the advice... time to start wrapping!


----------



## katjim00 (Jan 8, 2009)

If I got it on the foam I would turn it on my machine and with a fine grit paper just clean it up a little. I would wait till I am totally done with the rod so I don't get any foam dust on the rest of the rod before I finish work. This is what I would do.


----------



## okmajek (May 29, 2012)

I wish I owned a power wrapper ... i will try sanding at the end of the build..Thanks for the suggestions .


----------



## katjim00 (Jan 8, 2009)

Well I am not terribly far from you. If you want to get together when everything else is done you can throw it on there and sand it. Just let me know if that is something you would like to do.


----------



## okmajek (May 29, 2012)

katjim00 said:


> Well I am not terribly far from you. If you want to get together when everything else is done you can throw it on there and sand it. Just let me know if that is something you would like to do.


Thanks Jim I really appreciate it, I will give you an update....


----------



## cfulbright (Jun 24, 2009)

Im with you Okmajek the sk2's are difficult to put on, iv done a bunch now, but this last build I used the Fuji winding check for the first time and they pushed out on me, and trying to get the "Fuji" letters on the checks to line up on top of keeping everything strait was a pain. I ended up doing one half at a time. 

I have some rod builders paste, im going to try that next time. Should keep it from pushing out as bad and running everywhere.


----------



## Swampland (Mar 25, 2008)

A little dab of gel super glue holds the check in place before you put your epoxy on. It doesn't pop off.


----------



## colbyntx (Jul 18, 2013)

I haven't built nearly as many rods as most of these folks but have used the SK2 on most. I have never had this issue so far. I do use the paste epoxy for seat and grips though and scrape off the excess glob after sliding on the grip leaving just enough to set the check.


----------



## okmajek (May 29, 2012)

I think the paste would be the difference, I'm going to try it on my next
one. And not using as much.. the gel super glue sounds effective too..
what brand of paste do yall like ? Pro bond seems to be thick and stay in place 
from what I've read?


----------



## colbyntx (Jul 18, 2013)

okmajek said:


> I think the paste would be the difference, I'm going to try it on my next
> one. And not using as much.. the gel super glue sounds effective too..
> what brand of paste do yall like ? Pro bond seems to be thick and stay in place
> from what I've read?


I have been using the Roddancer Ultimate Epoxy Gel-15min. It has worked well so far. Haven't tried any of the others so I can't say if it's better than xyz?


----------



## okmajek (May 29, 2012)

I thought gel and paste were different ? Some research just showed I should do more research....lol yep Colby that's what im using " Roddancer Gel 15"..I might switch to a longer curing version until I get much better and cleaner... an old timer told me his favorite is U-40 Rod Bond . 2 hour cure ( slow cure ) I may try that..? Iwas also told that Mineral spirits is better for clean up and easier on blank finishes...
I'm using de-natured alcohol now..


----------



## colbyntx (Jul 18, 2013)

okmajek said:


> I thought gel and paste were different ? Some research just showed I should do more research....lol yep Colby that's what im using " Roddancer Gel 15"..I might switch to a longer curing version until I get much better and cleaner... an old timer told me his favorite is U-40 Rod Bond . 2 hour cure ( slow cure ) I may try that..? Iwas also told that Mineral spirits is better for clean up and easier on blank finishes...
> I'm using de-natured alcohol now..


ProPaste has a 45-min epoxy but I have never used it? It is about the same thickness of the roddancer gel but has about a 45-min work time. Sets up full in about 24 hours. I can't wait that long I usually just mix up small batches. If it starts to dry before I am done with everything, I just toss it and mix up a little more. Don't let your epoxy rush you. Take your time on each section. If you move to the next part and its starting to cure, toss it and mix some fresh.


----------



## CroakerJO (Mar 16, 2011)

This is NOT an adhesive problem, it is an arbor problem. 
Problem: the foam arbor (part #NSA) is a smidgen too long for the length of the SK2. If you do not sand some length off the arbor before installing, the shoulder of the winding check will butt against the arbor and it will not seat correctly.

Solution: Sand about 1/8 inch off the length of the arbor. If you don't use the Fuji arbor make sure you do this with any arbor if using an SK2. Dry fit BOTH winding checks at the same time to make sure you have removed enough of the arbor. Glue the arbor into the SK2 making sure it is centered and the winding checks seat fully in the part. Let the epoxy set up (arbor only, no winding checks) and then ream the arbor to snugly fit the final resting place on the blank. A sloppy fit will make pieces want to move after positioning. Ream a little at a time to achieve a snug fit. Glue the part on the blank and while the epoxy is still wet, glue in the winding checks from both ends. If you let the epoxy set up and then try to fit the checks, it will require a perfectly centered ream job. If the arbor sets up less than perfect, you can't get the shoulders of the winding check to seat into the SK2 part. 

I have made this mistake more than once before I adjusted my work flow to account for the length of the arbors and the need to allow a little flexibility in the final seating of the checks. The good news is, when properly seated, the SK2 winding checks look very good.


----------

