# The official AERC8BE thread.



## Gary

Since I'm a noob to 1/8th scalers and ask a zillion different questions on a billion different threads, I was hoping to get everything I need to know here in one spot. And thanks for the offer's, but everything will be new.

So far I ordered the

Team Associated RC8Be Factory Team 4WD 1/8 Buggy Kit (ASC80904) = $409.99
1 x Tekin RX8/Redline T8 1/8th Scale Buggy Brushless ESC/Motor Combo (1900kV) (TEKTT2312) = $329.99

As far as batteries, 4 cell with at least 20c+. Not knowing what cells will fit it the RC8BE, can anyone give me a link of what to get?

Servo. Right now I have a Savox in my 10th scale and that servo blows my mind. If they make one for 1/8 scale, I would get one.

Other tangibles like what extra parts should I get? Any upgrade parts? Do I need to buy and cooling fans? What tires should I get for Katy RC? Any extra shock oil, diff oil? And anything else I might be missing?

My goal is have to have the car ready for next weekend and doing all this research on my own would take me weeks! :headknock

Thanks guys. Even if I dont get the car ready by next week, I still have the mod truck to run and who knows, maybe two classes.


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## killerkustoms

RC8 is a good car, welcome to 1/8 scale, you will love it.

this is the battery most guys are using and its in the US:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=15007

these are cheaper but on backorder:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=18631

As for servos just make sure you get one with over 245 oz/in torque if you like the Savox get the 1256TG, I run them and they are pretty cheap
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product...ndard-Digital-High-Torque-Titanium-Gear-Servo

I used to have an RC8 nitro when they first came out but I believe now the the newer kits come with all the updated parts and stuff..


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## Gary

Thanks, I like the Savox.

http://www.youtube.com/user/biffg#p/a/u/1/2e4wAOFSl0c


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## Courtney Vaughan

Gary, do you have a transponder? If not get one ordered.

As for batteries, don't believe the hype of the marketing people for $200+ batteries.....their jig is up! Go for a couple of these if you need something ASAP, and if not you can wait 3-4 weeks, go for those $22 ones above.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=14983
Buy some adhesive foam so you can fit the battery in the tray once you get it in the tray.

Find out what pinion the car comes with stock, and buy one above and one below that.

As for spares, my suggestion is to find a used rolling chassis so that you have one of every part you could possibly need at the track and you'll never be without the parts to finish a race. When you get home replace it with a new part. If you want to only buy individual spares, I'm hoping Nick Maslowski who is our resident AE guy will pop in here and make a few suggestions.

As for tires, people are all over the map. But I don't think anyone will argue that any of the following premounted tires are good all-around treads:
Proline Caliber in M2 or M3 compound
Proline Bowties in M2 or M3 compound
AKA I-Beam in medium or soft compound
AKA City Block in medium or soft compound

There are hundreds of other tires and I'm sure you'll get tons of suggestions here and at the track. My personal suggestion is the AKA I-Beam premounted medium compound for the summer, and soft for the winter.....that combo will work great at any of our local tracks.

What other questions do you have??


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## Courtney Vaughan

Oh, and to answer your questions, no extra fans are necessary, and starting with the kit oils is always your best place to start. If you have to have a selection of oils, Losi sells a variety pack of shock oils. Diff oils in 1k increments from 2k through 7k, and 10k is just about all you'll need.


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## Gary

I have a transponder. As far as batteries, I cant get your link to work but know the stores well since I fly electric planes....

AS far as tires go,you cant have too many. AS far as anyother questions go, I think I have the basics down for now. Thank you guys very much and once I get to the track I can pick up on the other details.



Courtney Vaughan said:


> Gary, do you have a transponder? If not get one ordered.
> 
> As for batteries, don't believe the hype of the marketing people for $200+ batteries.....their jig is up! Go for a couple of these if you need something ASAP, and if not you can wait 3-4 weeks, go for those $22 ones above.
> http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=14983
> Buy some adhesive foam so you can fit the battery in the tray once you get it in the tray.
> 
> Find out what pinion the car comes with stock, and buy one above and one below that.
> 
> As for spares, my suggestion is to find a used rolling chassis so that you have one of every part you could possibly need at the track and you'll never be without the parts to finish a race. When you get home replace it with a new part. If you want to only buy individual spares, I'm hoping Nick Maslowski who is our resident AE guy will pop in here and make a few suggestions.
> 
> As for tires, people are all over the map. But I don't think anyone will argue that any of the following premounted tires are good all-around treads:
> Proline Caliber in M2 or M3 compound
> Proline Bowties in M2 or M3 compound
> AKA I-Beam in medium or soft compound
> AKA City Block in medium or soft compound
> 
> There are hundreds of other tires and I'm sure you'll get tons of suggestions here and at the track. My personal suggestion is the AKA I-Beam premounted medium compound for the summer, and soft for the winter.....that combo will work great at any of our local tracks.
> 
> What other questions do you have??


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## Gary

So far I have the car ordered, the servo, 3 battery packs, motor and ESC, allready have a radio and RX-2.4 gig, chargers, power suplies and a still need tires.

Thanks guys.


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## Gary

Everything is ordered and Ill be needing food stamps. O


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## jasonwipf

With the tekin 1900 you shouldn't need any fans what so ever, even on the ESC.


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## Merdith

*Coooool*

Go Gary.....

My favorite tires of late have been the premounted AKA Enduros, they bridge the gap between the I beams for wet n loamy days and smaller pin tires for really hardpacked conditions, and for that the Impacts are great...and I only buy soft....

So between those three sets you got it covered. But Courtney is right, all kinds of opinions, but the Calibers in M3 you never know when you need em....If it's slightly loamy and not dry they work awesome....

Oh yeah pick up some Avid bearings too. 1/8th scale has larger bearings, but I've decided that If I'm spending hours rebuilding my ride just put new bearings in it......they take a beating....All rubber sealed.....1 dolla make u holla.....


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## Gary

Question about tires and rim sizes. I notice several different diameter sizes raging from 75mm to 83mm I think. Does this matter? Thanks.


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## Gary

These are the tires I ordered.

PROC0931 Pro-Line Caliber M2 Off-Road Front/Rear (2)2*34.36 *PROC2502 Pro-Line 1/8 Bow-Tie M3 Off-Road Buggy Front/Rear (2)1*18.99 *PROC2502 Pro-Line 1/8 Bow-Tie M3 Off-Road Buggy Front/Rear (2)2*36.28 *


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## Courtney Vaughan

I recommend Pro-Line rims with Pro-Line tires..........

If you want a solid dish wheel, look, at the Pro-Line Velocity V2 1/8 Buggy rims in white or yellow.

If you want a spoked rim, look up the Pro-Line Split Six 1/8 Buggy rims in white or yellow.


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## B4Maz

Good job Gary. Youre joining the winners club with the RC8B! Now you need to order all the new Worlds parts!


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## B4Maz

Gary, all of the suggestions here are good ones. As for gearing, start with 19/46. Also get 18t and 20t pinions. Heres a pic of my RC8:


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## Gary

B4Maz said:


> Gary, all of the suggestions here are good ones. As for gearing, start with 19/46. Also get 18t and 20t pinions. Heres a pic of my RC8:


Im all ears Nick.


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## Gary

B4Maz said:


> Good job Gary. Youre joining the winners club with the RC8B! Now you need to order all the new Worlds parts!


Are these better than the factory team parts?


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## B4Maz

Gary said:


> Are these better than the factory team parts?


Theyre not really "better" in terms of material or quality, but it changes the geometry of the suspension a lot. It makes the car easier to drive and more forgiving. Basically: longer chassis, more upright shocks and more droop.


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## Gary

Ouch on the price Nick. I better get some time in before I go that far. I havent raced in 4 years and probabaly at least 6 years since in dirt and I never dove an 18th scaler before. I better get my basics down first.


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## Gary

I decided to make another change and hand off my heavy arsed M11 to Andy and picked this up.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product...Radio-System-w-KR409S-Receiver-Setting-Module

Andy, youll owe me a few bucks for it since I have 3 RX's for it.


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## Snowmonkey

The car will handle great with the parts it comes with you can wait to get those parts .
Just start running laps that's the best thing you can do .


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## mmorrow

nice radio gary.
you are going to be amazed by the power and durability of 1/8 scale racing.
Looking forward to laping you. lol


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## Courtney Vaughan

EXCELLENT choice Gary.....best radio I have ever owned!

I highly recommend the multi-angle attachment for the steering wheel......


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## Gary

mmorrow said:


> nice radio gary.
> you are going to be amazed by the power and durability of 1/8 scale racing.
> Looking forward to laping you. lol


Lapping me?

Well, you might since I'm 53 years old and havent raced since Dr. Pepper was in med school and never ran a 8th scale before. But on the flip side, if you don't lap me, you would look rather silly bro! :dance:

And I will only get faster coming off the couch. :bounce:

I'm sure not the fastest racer around but I'm clean and if you bobble, I'm there! Gimme 3 months.. I might not be able to run with Jason Branham, or Frosty or Joor, but I'm never intimidated on the stand.


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## Gary

Courtney Vaughan said:


> EXCELLENT choice Gary.....best radio I have ever owned!
> 
> I highly recommend the multi-angle attachment for the steering wheel......


Yea I wanna lower it. I HATED the M11 at HIRCR. It hurt my right wrist.


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## B4Maz

Gary said:


> Ouch on the price Nick. I better get some time in before I go that far. I havent raced in 4 years and probabaly at least 6 years since in dirt and I never dove an 18th scaler before. I better get my basics down first.


Yea, dont worry about the new parts yet. Just get the RC8 together and drive it.


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## Gary

Thomas and Nick, thats my plan. Get used to the buggy and upgrade when I can. I spent A LOT of money lately. lol


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## Guffinator

Gary said:


> Thomas and Nick, thats my plan. Get used to the buggy and upgrade when I can. I spent A LOT of money lately. lol


I'm running mine without the updated part and it handles great.


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## Gary

The build starts tomorrow.


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## B4Maz

http://www.youtube.com/user/JRiemerRC#p/u/4/ZlcO-jPKfUA


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## Gary

Well, it's a start!


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## Gary

B4Maz said:


> http://www.youtube.com/user/JRiemerRC#p/u/4/ZlcO-jPKfUA


Thats great info Nick! Thanks! :texasflag

I have a little trick I'd like to share with yall. Sometimes when running screws into plastic or Graphite they can seem too tight and sometimes strip the allen head part of the screw. Now, some folks just tap the hole and thats a bad idea because eventually the hole wallows out. What I do is put the screw on the allen wrench and heat it up slightly with a lighter and run it in a few threads, back it out and re-heat the screw and drive it in a little deeper until eventulay the screw goes in smoothly.

Machinists may call this "Form Tapping". What this does it makes the threads and the hole denser making for a much stronger holding.


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## Gary

Dang this car is big.


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## fishermanX

Guess I'm gonna have to buy an 1/8th scale electric.


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## Gary

fishermanX said:


> Guess I'm gonna have to buy an 1/8th scale electric.


AE?

BTW, my new radio is coming in today. So the M11 is available.


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## fishermanX

How many people run electric vs nitro these days?


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## darrenwilliams

Electric is slowly overtaking nitro. I believe there are now more electric truggies than buggies. Buggies are probably about 50/50 electric nitro


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## Gary

Question for those who built the RC8. There is a LOT on slop on the steering posts. That don't seem right. Am I supposed to add shims or something?

Thanks.


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## Guffinator

Gary said:


> Question for those who built the RC8. There is a LOT on slop on the steering posts. That don't seem right. Am I supposed to add shims or something?
> 
> Thanks.


I didn't shim mine, but I don't remember there being excessive slop.


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## mmorrow

That is what you get with AE. Slop


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## Gary

Guffinator said:


> I didn't shim mine, but I don't remember there being excessive slop.


Mine has a lot of slop. Think ill keep grounding down the screws


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## mmorrow

sorry, you set that one on the tee for me.


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## Gary

mmorrow said:


> That is what you get with AE. Slop


Thats true, I used a lot of shims on AE's over the years.


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## Gary

mmorrow said:


> sorry, you set that one on the tee for me.


We will see bro. I ran Losi also. :cheers:

And a few other cars.


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## Courtney Vaughan

I always recall the steering linkage on my RC8 being sloppy.....but you have to remember that these things have a lot more play in them than 1/10 stuff Gary. They need some room for movement because they take quite a beating. Don't expect some silky smooth, super tight linkages and suspension on any 1/8 buggy.....there will be play in even the most expensive buggies becuase it's designed to be there.


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## fishermanX

Listen to the youngsters Gary, They know more than you!


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## Gary

This can't be right.


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## Courtney Vaughan

That has to be too long of a screw in there Gary...


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## Gary

It's the one they called for and I even ground an 1/8" off of them.


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## Courtney Vaughan

Sometimes the books are off slightly. If the screw is threaded in as far as it will go and you have that gap, then instructions or not, it's too long.


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## B4Maz

Thats too much play. The scews should be a little shorter. Worst case scenario is that even if you ground it down more and still have play, the top plate and front brace will make the steering post pretty solid.


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## Courtney Vaughan

The steering posts should actually have zero play.....they should be fixed down to the chassis and not move at all. The play we've been referring to is all in the linkage. 

Use a shorter screw and plenty of loc-tite.


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## B4Maz

Gary, the screws on mine are about 3/8" long. How long are yours?


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## Guffinator

The holes in the post probably weren't drilled and tapped the full length.


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## Gary

Guffinator said:


> The holes in the post probably weren't drilled and tapped the full length.


Thats what I'm thinking. Now if I can find a 4mm tap. lol


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## Gary

B4Maz said:


> Gary, the screws on mine are about 3/8" long. How long are yours?


4x12mm. Yowza!


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## Gary

3 different things were wrong. First the screws were suspect, think they are Chino. The steering posts tapping was pretty bad, my guess a worn tap and then, the counter sunk part in the chassis was either too deep or the angle of the screw was wrong. One one side I had to countersink the steering post because the threads ended too soon. In other words the threads ended above the chassis surface.


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## Guffinator

Your kit must have been made on a Friday






Or in China...


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## Gary

Guffinator said:


> Your kit must have been made on a Friday
> 
> Or in China...


I'm pulling Kurt Wengers BRT number. :brew:


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## Gary

Hey do yall run sway bars on these things? Or better worded, anti-sway bars? :work:


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## B4Maz

Gary said:


> Hey do yall run sway bars on these things? Or better worded, anti-sway bars? :work:


Yes


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## Guffinator

Gary said:


> Hey do yall run sway bars on these things? Or better worded, anti-sway bars? :work:


Yes


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## Gary

I take it yall run anti sway bars. :spineyes:

I needed one the last time I left that club on Richmond. :brew2:


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## Z-Man.

Are there any pics of the car? 
i wanna see it.:doowapsta


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## Gary

Z-Man. said:


> Are there any pics of the car?
> i wanna see it.:doowapsta


A little too early yet bro. :cheers: I'm a slow builder but usually my cars turn out pretty good. I'm one of those guys who file down high spots and shim where needed all though my pit is always a mess. 

By tomorrow I should have some better build pics.


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## Z-Man.

SHEEEEEEEEETTT!!!!! 
i like it!


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## Gary

I ordered some wheels. Hope it's a good start.


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## Gary

Yall aint BSing me on sway bars would ya? On the bench I don't like them. I was also told no way! Leave them off.


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## Courtney Vaughan

Yes......sway bars aren't like they are on 1/10 scales......you really need them on 1/8 buggies. You will be really loose without them.


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## Gary

I can add them later if need be. I know how they help with TC and extremely smooth high bite tracks with a lot of chassis roll, but...


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## Gary

Front end near done.


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## ProBroAndy

git-er-dun biff! 

is it done yet??!?!??


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## Gary

ProBroAndy said:


> git-er-dun biff!
> 
> is it done yet??!?!??


Not untill I can clear that double bro! :help:


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## Gary

Ok I put the sway bar back on. Something just wasn't right and my A arms was pointing upwards and I thought it was because of the sway bar. Stoopid droop screws. lol


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## Gary

Getting closer. Man this car has a lot of parts. :cheers:


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## B4Maz

Looks good


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## ProBroAndy

Lookin great Biff! i built my B4.1 yesterday in one sitting LOL! boy do my fingers hurt though


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## JANKEII

Gary,
I see you are using allen wrenches? It would make your life alot easier to get an electric screwdriver with allen tips.


Gary said:


> Front end near done.


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## Courtney Vaughan

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product...d-Factory-Team-1-4-Drive-Power-Tool-Tip-Set-5

http://www.lowes.com/pd_122297-70-LI3100++A_0__?productId=3265369&Ntt=cordless+screwdriver&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dcordless%2Bscrewdriver&facetInfo=

He's right Gary..........BEST tool investment I ever made! They're not powerful enought to really rip out screws if you're careful. Makes threading in those long diff case screws and such SUPER easy and saves your hands BIG TIME.


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## Gary

I'm no hurry. I'm really enjoying this build since this is my first 1/8th scaler. Probably the main reason I'm moving ahead so slowly is because of all those trips to the fridge. :brew:

I just realized, I have never driven an 1/8th scale before. 

BTW, if any of yall AE guys don't mind sharing a set up, Ill give ya some rep! :bounce:

I have a little punch as you can see! :slimer:


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## Guffinator

The default setup that comes in the manual works very well. From what I gather that's the general setup that the team guys use.


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## Gary

I wunder if I could shoe horn this .56 in? :doowapsta


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## Gary

Guffinator said:


> The default setup that comes in the manual works very well. From what I gather that's the general setup that the team guys use.


I owe ya one Guff. System say's I have to spread something.


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## Guffinator

One thing that I did realize, is that the ride height guages are pretty handy. I eyeballed mine (arms level, dogbones level blah blah) but Nick loaned me his height guage. Once I got it set according to the setup it made a HUGE difference.


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## Courtney Vaughan

It's hard to eyeball 3-4mm worth of height difference when looking at the front or rear end.........but like you say, it makes a huge difference in handling! The same goes for camber as well.......a $10 camber gauge helps tremendously, as opposed to just measuring the gaps between rod ends to what they say in the manual.


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## Gary

I owe CV also. Apparently Ive been shooting a lot of greenies lately. :cheers:

About the camber gauge bro. I'm on my 3rd. I have worn them out before. lol. Besides an x-acto knife, that's one of the most important tools I own.


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## Gary

Guffinator said:


> One thing that I did realize, is that the ride height guages are pretty handy. I eyeballed mine (arms level, dogbones level blah blah) but Nick loaned me his height guage. Once I got it set according to the setup it made a HUGE difference.


Yea when we were running 12th scale at PR the ride height has to be exact or you were a backmarker. I suppose Droop is important also.


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## Gary

Just ordered me a 10th buggy so I can run 2 classes when I go to Mikes.

Besides, I hear Smiley needs some competetion.


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## Guffinator

B4.1?


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## Gary

Guffinator said:


> B4.1?


Yup! FT!:work:


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## ProBroAndy

Gary said:


> Yup! FT!:work:


sweet!!! all i need is my motor to show up and i'm ready to run with ya


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## Guffinator

ProBroAndy said:


> sweet!!! all i need is my motor to show up and i'm ready to run with ya


It doesn't look like you're "ready"


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## Gary

Ill pull the Tekin 8.5 outa my truck and use it in the buggy. It's gonna be STOOPID FAST! :mpd:


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## ProBroAndy

Guffinator said:


> It doesn't look like you're "ready"


oh, it's built now . all i got left to do is paint the body and get the motor in the mailbox.


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## B4Maz

RC8.2 FT

http://www.teamassociated.com/cars_and_trucks/RC8.2/Factory_Team


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## Gary

B4Maz said:


> RC8.2 FT
> 
> http://www.teamassociated.com/cars_and_trucks/RC8.2/Factory_Team


One of these days the factory's and orgs will realize than many guys hate two strokes and wouldn't mind running 4 strokes.


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## Gary

Got the shocks done.


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## Gary

Question on the Tekin RX8. Is the fan supposed to run all the time or only when it reaches a certain temp?

Thanks.


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## Guffinator

I don't know the answer to that Biff, I THINK it runs all the time. 

TIP: Buy some more of those little fans, they are dirt cheap. Keep 2 of them in your box. The blades break off easily.


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## Z-Man.

Gary said:


> One of these days the factory's and orgs will realize than many guys hate two strokes and wouldn't mind running 4 strokes.


What engine is in that?


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## Gary

Guffinator said:


> I don't know the answer to that Biff, I THINK it runs all the time.
> 
> TIP: Buy some more of those little fans, they are dirt cheap. Keep 2 of them in your box. The blades break off easily.


Guess Ill ask on the Tekin forum and thats a good suggestion especially in this heat. When I mounting the fan it seemed like it could easily be stressed and bound up but it free-wheels ok.


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## Gary

Z-Man. said:


> What engine is in that?


It's an O.S. FS26S-C V2 which they dont make anymore and I think it might be a little underpowered. I have an OS FS 30 in one of my planes I'd like to try and fit in a 10th scale truck.


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## Z-Man.

Thats an AIRPLANE engine........ I like your style!


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## Gary

And then I have a NIB Saito 56 I'd like to try in an 1/8th scale. This isn't done very often and figgering out the clutch and all that will be a pain in the arse. I'd like to try it though.


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## ProBroAndy

saito did make a small run of car-version .30's a few years back.


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## Gary

ProBroAndy said:


> saito did make a small run of car-version .30's a few years back.


For Touring Car I think.


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## Gary

I finally got a run in today and the first thing that happened was I popped the front dogbone. I havent finished the body and yet to have hook up the Hotwire and set up the speedo. Actually, my toe, camber and ride height haven't been accurately been done yet. I just wanted to get a feel for the car and I hope I can a little more punch out of it. I video loading, but heres a pic.


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## Guffinator

Popped a dogbone??? How?


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## fishermanX

Guffinator said:


> Popped a dogbone??? How?


He Biff'd it!


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## Gary

Guffinator said:


> Popped a dogbone??? How?


I don't think I had the set screw tight enough up against the front diff. The bearing fell out and the bone was 
laying in the chassis.


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## Guffinator

Gary said:


> I don't think I had the set screw tight enough up against the front diff. The bearing fell out and the bone was
> laying in the chassis.


 I was thinking 'operator error' lol


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## Gary

The vid. I have no idea how to rate the car since I have never ran an 1/8th scaler and aint set up properly yet, but if feels pretty good so far. I think I need to gear up from the 15t to maybe a 17t and set up the ESC.


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## darrenwilliams

Looks good Gary. Bring it to Ultimate Saturday.


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## Gary

darrenwilliams said:


> Looks good Gary. Bring it to Ultimate Saturday.


Im thinking of meeting up with with old bud Guff on Saturday.


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## Gary

Sorta plain, but I have another body to start work on.


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## nik77356

Both of ya'll come out to Ultimate on Saturday then!


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## B4Maz

Gary said:


> The vid. I have no idea how to rate the car since I have never ran an 1/8th scaler and aint set up properly yet, but if feels pretty good so far. I think I need to gear up from the 15t to maybe a 17t and set up the ESC.


 Is it the 1900 Tekin motor? You can go up to a 19/46 on a big track like ultimate.


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## Gary

B4Maz said:


> Is it the 1900 Tekin motor? You can go up to a 19/46 on a big track like ultimate.


Yea I saw your other post about gearing with the 1900 when I realized all I had was a 14 and 15T. Tomorrow ill be running at M&M which is a much smaller track and I'm gonna try it with the 15T first. I just did the Hotwire thing to the RX8 and have no idea how it'll work. I figured I had plenty of top speed for M&M and punch didn't seek to be a problem since the car does wheelies.

This is a whole new ball game for me. Ill be counting on my buds for help.


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## Gary

I need a little more steering but I really like the car providing I can keep the front end together. :spineyes:


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## Gary

Question on my set up from you guys. Saturday I had plenty of on-power and mid turn steering as long as I was on the throttle, but when it came to off-power hairpin turns, I was pushing. I was running the kit set up, 25 weight, bronze springs and all the usual shock locations. Ride height was a guess and I was running 1* camber.

What I'm thinking is to move the lower shock mounts to the inside, go up to 30 weight, go to the lighter silver springs, increase the camber to 2* on the front.

In the rear I plan to stay with the standard set up, but add more camber. I'm at about 1/2*

Thanks.


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## Guffinator

If you are planning on racing this Friday at Mike's I'd leave it alone until you get there for some practice laps.


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## Gary

Guffinator said:


> If you are planning on racing this Friday at Mike's I'd leave it alone until you get there for some practice laps.


Not sure I'm gonna make it to Mikes Friday and if I did, I'm not changing set ups like shock oil at the track. I absolutely _HATE_ making changes at the track especially when it's so hot.

Prolly, most of my racing will be at KRC and the traction and surface is fairly similar to M&M.


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## Gulf Coast RaceWay

Just to let you AE guys now we have 2 of the rc8.2 on the first order their is no ship date yet but this is going to be a hot item at first.

Tires are the biggest setup change at our track. Impacts, holeshots,double dees, gridirons, revolver 2.0, our just about any square tread will be the best at our track.


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