# trolling question, downriggers vs outriggers



## Mikeyhunts (Jun 4, 2007)

Can someone elude to the different techiques.

I am curious which is better, 1) a standard set of electric Cannon Downriggers near the rear of the boat downrigger, or a mount to the t-top set up of out riggers.



Pros and Cons, as well as any descriptive detail of setup would be appreciated.

I have used Cannon electric downriggers for trolling for Stripers, but I am much more interested in the outriggers that attach to a T-top.
I just dont know how those work and if they are preferred for saltwater.

please advise.

Pictures of set ups would be even more appreciated.

Thanks in advance.


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## Toledo (Mar 6, 2006)

Outriggers are primarily for using surface lures like ilanders. They also allow you to cover a wider path with your spread. If you have done a lot of striper fishing you have probably seen foks using planer boards to get the baits further out to the sides of the boat. Outriggers are going to do a lot of the same thing but with less hassle.


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## Pocketfisherman (May 30, 2005)

It all depends on what you're targeting. They are two totally different methods and one is not necessarily better than the other. You pick the tool for the species environment you are fishing. Downriggers precisely control depth. Outriggers are for surface, or near surface running lures and emulate a school of bait like squid, flying fish, bonito, etc. Outriggers are used a lot more in the gulf because that is the tool to catch pelagic species like Mahi and Billfish. I think downriggers are really underutilized in the Gulf. They originated in the midwest and NW as a tool to catch schooling salmon and present a lure right in front of their noses without having to use wire/lead line or huge amounts of weight. I've caught some of my best snapper slow trolling ribbonfish with downriggers around gulf structure.


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## whistlingdixie (Jul 28, 2008)

downriggers are a pain in the butt


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## Toledo (Mar 6, 2006)

Pocketfisherman said:


> I think downriggers are really underutilized in the Gulf.


I gotta agree with that. Ive often wondered how deadly they would be on daytime tuna around the floaters when they are holding deep.


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## rambunctious (May 30, 2004)

*Which one*

I use both,but prefer the outriggers. Downriggers are a pain in the ARSE. I much perfer to watch the strike on top. Great sight and feeling. I do like downriggers for fresh water tho. Both hava advantages and disadvantages.
LOL,
Terry


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## HonkyFin (May 28, 2004)

I use both and yes Downriggers are a Pain ,But you do have the advantage of covering more water column with both.
I have had great success with Downriggers especially later in the season when the "Comfort zone" is further down than the Outriggers and flatlines can bring up.


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## Swells (Nov 27, 2007)

Some of my buddies swear that using a deep diving lure like a Mann Stretch 30 is the chit for wahoo, and sometimes they use a trolling weight or planer to get even deeper. This is usually run (for some reason) on the port corner or flat line, not on an outrigger. The reason is that the intense pull of the diver will unlatch the clip. Most of your larger wahoo will be on those divers about 30 foot deep - and some of these folks troll quite fast, nearly pulling line even on "strike" drag. Hint, hint.

We tend to use downriggers for specialty uses like kite fishing, or way-way deep fishing like +600'. Neither is a trolling function, but stationary or on a slow drift. I have heard of Kingfish pros who "bump troll" very slow with a downrigger at very slow speeds, never done that myself. Personally, I like the downrigger for sailfishing with kites and live bait, if your boat is set up for all that.

Otherwise, downriggers are considered an electrical pain-in-the-boat. My downrigger is a 25 year-old son named Eric!


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## Bill Fisher (Apr 12, 2006)

keep the optional downriggers but get the mandatory outriggers installed

Creating a productive trolling spread that covers a wide swath of ocean is an ongoing challenge among serious offshore anglers, which is why outriggers and center riggers are de rigueur equipment on almost every blue-water boat. In fact, these days it's common to see even 21-foot center consoles adorned with a full array of T-top-mounted 'riggers. Although these trolling tools fill a vital role in offshore fishing, there's a good deal of confusion over how to rig them. 
Poorly rigged outriggers can hinder the performance of baits and lures. In choppy seas, excessive slack in the outrigger halyards causes the baits or lures to surge erratically. This could also prevent the release clip from immediately opening after a strike. 
Adding a second release clip to the same halyard sometimes compounds the problem, even if the halyard is taut. That's because the heavier bait or lure, or the one creating the most drag, can take some of the tension off the other release clip. In choppy seas, the clip with the least amount of tension could flip or twist just enough to foul the line it's holding, or might not open promptly on a strike. Lastly, if the outrigger's shock cord fastens above or to the rim of the T-top, as is the case on many small and mid-sized boats, the release clips may be hard to reach and adjust, especially in heavy seas. Fortunately, there's a solution. 
*Hot System *

Thanks to an innovative and surprisingly simple way of rigging outriggers and center riggers, I can troll two baits off each outrigger, plus two more off the center rigger, on my 28-foot center console. Add in two flat lines, fished straight off the transom, and I can troll an eight-bait spread with plenty of separation to avoid tangles. That's double the number of baits trolled by many small and mid-sized boats. What's more, my halyards always remain taut, and I don't have to stretch or climb onto the gunwales to reach the release clips. 









The author increases his spread with two complete, separate halyards on each outrigger pole. He can make minute tension adjustsments on the halyard with a barrel swivel that grips the cord wherever he places it.

I learned about this system three years ago from a devoted big-game angler, and have been impressed with its performance ever since. I recently rigged the outriggers on my new boat the exact same way, with two release clips, each rigged on an independent halyard, per pole. Advantages of this system include the sliding halyard barrel swivel, which permits precise tension adjustments to keep the halyards taut in both the running and fishing positions. Once adjusted, the halyards rarely loosen up. In fact, on a recent trip to the Bahamas, not once did the sliding swivel slip during the crossings or while fishing. 
Then there's the benefit of stringing each outrigger clip on its own adjustable halyard, which maintains the independent action of each bait or lure while eliminating the risk of improper release-clip operation or line fouling. Another major plus is that each outrigger's pulley/shock-cord fastener can be secured to a convenient spot on the rim of the T-top, or on one of its stanchions. This enables the release clips to be retrieved right into the cockpit for easy loading. 
*Step one *

The best halyard material for this application is 3/16-inch braided nylon cord, as it provides the "grip" that enables the barrel swivel to hold its position. As for the amount of cord necessary to create each halyard, a good rule of thumb is to use twice the length of your pole. For example, with 15-foot outriggers, go with 30 feet of cord for each halyard. With your outriggers in either the running or fishing position, pass the cord through the lower outrigger guide first, then through the remaining eyes. 
*Step two *

Once the cord exits the top outrigger guide, pass it through a cork float or small lure head, then tie it to a snap swivel. Attach the snap swivel to a release clip (I use AFTCO Roller Trollers). The float or lure head will act as a stop, preventing the snap swivel and release clip from jamming in the top guide. Strip off enough line from the top to work with, bringing the release clip down near the base of the outrigger pole. Excess cord can be trimmed as you complete the rigging. 
*Step three *

At the base of the outrigger, pass the opposite end of the cord through the shock-cord pulley. Use a quality pulley, one that's large enough to easily accommodate the halyard cord. It pays to go with a large pulley, which will provide smooth and effortless release-clip retrieval. 
*Step four *

After exiting the pulley, pass the halyard cord through the eye of a barrel swivel. For the maximum holding power, it's essential to use the smallest swivel that will fit on the cord. Any larger and slippage could be a problem. 
*Step five *

After adding the barrel swivel, pass the line through the eye of a snap swivel, but do not tie it off. Next, clip the snap swivel to the release clip. Outside of adjusting the length of the outrigger line and tying it to the open eye of the barrel swivel, the rigging is basically complete. 
*Step six *

Here are some critical adjustments to keep in mind: Keep the barrel swivel fairly close to the pulley/shock cord and within two or three feet of the release clip. Take up any slack by pulling the halyard through the eye of the snap swivel fastened to the release clip. You will likely have to cut off a few feet of line to eliminate the excess slack. Once the line is fairly taught, tighten it a little more. Make sure the barrel swivel is about two to three feet from the release clip, since this is where the extra slack will come from when needed, then tie the halyard to its open eye. 
Providing the barrel swivel remains within a couple feet of the release clip during the adjustment process, the clip should come close enough to reach from the cockpit when retrieved. Also, the barrel swivel can pass through a large pulley should the clip need to be retrieved even closer. 
To increase halyard tension, simply slide the barrel swivel toward the cockpit. To loosen it, slide the barrel swivel up the halyard, away from the cockpit. This applies when retrieving or deploying the outriggers. *Note:* Follow this procedure when rigging each outrigger. When running two clips per outrigger, run the main halyard with the top release clip through all the outrigger guides. The halyard with the lower clip should exit through the second guide from the top. Each halyard should be rigged to an independent shock cord. Ditto with a center rigger. My lower outrigger clips, as well as both clips on my center rigger, are AFTCO Goldfinger release clips. 
*The Author's Eight-Bait Spread *

My 28-foot center console features an array of outriggers and a center rigger, which allows me to troll an eight-bait spread. To prevent tangles, I fish the long outrigger baits from rods in the port and starboard holders of my rocket launcher. The short outrigger baits are fished from gunwale-based rods. This way, when the long 'rigger baits get hit, the height and sharp angle of the lines keep them from fouling on the gunwale-based rods. The two flat-line baits are fished from rods in the aftermost gunwale holders, while the long and short center-rigger baits are fished from rods placed next to each other in the rocket launcher (between the two long outrigger rods). Of course, you may find a more effective rod arrangement for your boat and style of fishing, but this is a good starting point. - George Poveromo 








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## whistlingdixie (Jul 28, 2008)

I have always been an avid kingfisher in tourneys and we utilize the downrigger a lot. i try to pull artificials when trolling and if I am bump trolling i will use live bait but down rigger and live bait make it difficult. Downrigger is nice though when trying to get your bait in cooler water.


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## Pocketfisherman (May 30, 2005)

You are limited to about 4-5 mph when using downriggers though, which is too slow for a lot of Gulf species. Faster than that and you get too much blowback and strain on the rigger boom.

I don't think they're a pain at all. I think a lot of people with problems either don't have them rigged correctly, or don't have an appropriate setup for the desired depth and size of lure they are trolling. You do have to set the clip tension differently for various lures, so having extra clips already preset and paired with a lure helps when you change over. If there's any grass in the water though, I agree, big pain and I'd rather do without the downrigger. Another good use for them is anchored at the jetties when your after big redfish and the current is ripping. It's a lot more fun to fight a fish without 8 oz of weight too.


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## Jfreeman (Nov 3, 2004)

I've caught wahoo using downriggers when every other boat around me couldn't buy a bite on the surface.

Outriggers will be used more often but i would still keep atleast one electric downrigger on the boat.


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## Mikeyhunts (Jun 4, 2007)

great reading...............and very interesting.

I am just looking at some different fishing techinques other than bottom fishing on rigs.


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## Swells (Nov 27, 2007)

One thing to do is drift on top of some good numbers, like in Rik's snapper book. I like to drift fish, although many find that boring -- but the crew gets to hit some decent numbers on the bottom if you have a good drift pattern. Basically you put out two more more poles off the stern like flatlines and leave them out thar about 30 to 50 feet. If you're smart you'll chum with small chunks of dead bait, Chum-Churn, etc. There lots of kinds of drift fishing:


Dead bait on a metal leader with a 1/4 or 1/2 ounce sliding egg sinker
Balloon fishing where you can weight the bait down as desired
Buoy fishing, same idea with a line to the buoy and an Aftco clip
Live bait fishing, with balloon or not
Flying kites and aerial balloons (helium filled)
Doodle-socking, just hanging bait down next to solid seaweed patches
Swordfishing, deep stuff with glo-lights and big squid
On very hot days this can become intolerable after an hour, I know, but sometimes it is very productive. Plus, your crew it hitting on good snaps and A-J if your drift is good, keeps everyone happy. You never know, you might get a Mako on a drifted bonita or Jack Crevalle, a true offshore prize in anybody's book.


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## Mikeyhunts (Jun 4, 2007)

Swells,

Great reading and very interesting stuff.
We may have to to try some of those techniques on Saturday after we get our Snappa limit.

Thanks for the feedback.


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