# Table Saw Infeed Table



## MT Stringer (May 21, 2004)

I hope to be able to use my Incra 1000 HD Miter Gauge to cut some pieces for an upcoming project that will require 20 inch cross cuts. Currently, the max I can cut safely crosscut is about 12 inches.

I browsed the internet for ideas, then commenced to draw my version of the extension.

The attached drawings show my saw table top (27 x 48), the 3 inch x 3 inch angle iron with the 3 inch x 1 3/4 inch steel tube attached. The fence slides on the steel tube.

The new extension table will be about 24 inches wide x 11 - 12 inches deep. I will attach it by using at least one Rockler Universal Fence Clamp (Item #31373), and maybe a second one. I will have to figure that out later.

I don't want to, but if I have to, I can position a roller stand to support the extension.

The main part of the table will be about 1 inch thick. That should be easy to make since I have some 1/2 inch Baltic birch. The two support pieces will be attached with screws. I have a piece of Formica that just might be wide enough to cover the top.

My main concern is to make the extension easy to attach and remove.

Your thoughts and ideas appreciated.
Thanks
Mike


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## padrefigure (Aug 22, 2006)

I would consider building a cut-off sled instead of extending your miter gauge slot. I takes the torking tendency out the cut-off process and is probably a safer cut. Your design looks fine, but be careful because you will be reaching a long way over the table when you are making the cut. FWIW, when a cross cut gets this long (wide?), I usually go to the portable circular saw and a clamping style fence. I scribe the line to prevent chipping. This reduces set-up time and with a new blade, I can get a very clean cut. Good luck either way.


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## Wado (May 15, 2011)

http://www.debate.org/reference/stanley-stanley-tools-saw-glide-layout-tool-46-068
I have one of these but to make a 20 inch cut it needs to be larger. You could easily make one out of plywood and use a circular saw. Just a thought.


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## MT Stringer (May 21, 2004)

padrefigure said:


> I would consider building a cut-off sled instead of extending your miter gauge slot. I takes the torking tendency out the cut-off process and is probably a safer cut. Your design looks fine, but be careful because you will be reaching a long way over the table when you are making the cut. FWIW, when a cross cut gets this long (wide?), I usually go to the portable circular saw and a clamping style fence. I scribe the line to prevent chipping. This reduces set-up time and with a new blade, I can get a very clean cut. Good luck either way.


Good ideas. Thanks.
I have a sled. This extension will make it more stable also.

Most likely, I will change the design a little as I get into building it.


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## Hooked (Oct 15, 2004)

To attach you might consider running a couple countersunk bolts from the top through the support piece and angle iron. 

I just wish I could learn Sketchup well enough to draw up plans for the computer charging station I'm gonna be building. lol


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## MT Stringer (May 21, 2004)

Hooked said:


> To attach you might consider running a couple countersunk bolts from the top through the support piece and angle iron.
> 
> I just wish I could learn Sketchup well enough to draw up plans for the computer charging station I'm gonna be building. lol


Thanks Bob. I think it will be clamped in place. I want to be able to remove it. That is unless I get used to it and find it isn't a bother for every day operations.

I might be able to help ya with that charging station.
Mike


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## Hooked (Oct 15, 2004)

Thanks for the offer Mike. I was just messin' with you. I drew up plans a while back. Now I just have to buy the wood and get moving on it. lol


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## Gottagofishin (Dec 17, 2005)

That looks like it will work. Another option is a cross cut sled. 

I built one that will handle 26". It works great and is extremely accurate. You also don't have to worry about binding like you do if you are sliding the piece across the table.


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## MT Stringer (May 21, 2004)

*Revision #1*

I made a few changes.









I realized that I didn't need the entire piece to be 11 1/2 inches deep. All I really need is for a place for the miter gauge to rest when I draw it back. So, I trimmed away some of the unused area.

I also created a way to add a second Rockler fence clamp by boring a hole in the support board just large enough for the 5/16 "L" shaped bolt to fit through. Then it clamps the rectangular steel guide tube to the rear wooden table support.

I also added a filler block that will be glued/screwed in between the two support boards. I may be able to add an additional clamp of some sort once I get it built. The problem is the ON/OFF switch for the saw is directly under it.









The table will be one inch thick and constructed from 2 pieces of 1/2 inch mdf, which I just so happen to have. I also have a piece of white Formica that will work for the table top.

I have attached some pics of the temporary layout I have come up with. According to the rulers, I can easily crosscut at least 19 inches and maybe 20. That remains to be seen. And, I can rip material as narrow as 10 inches without the fence hitting the table extension.

Removing part of the table extension also will make it easier to reach the ON/OFF switch.









As I have mentioned, I have a crosscut sled that I can use with the table extension. And if all else fails, I can resort to using the track saw which I have used in the past.

Here's some pics.
Mike


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## Gottagofishin (Dec 17, 2005)

Your sketch up skills are awesome. 

What's the advantage of your design over a cross cut sled. It seems like a hybrid between an Incra 5000 mitre sled and a cross cut sled. Not trying to pick a fight, but it seems your design would require calibration every time you set it up. 

I'm really interested in this. You may be on to something.


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## MT Stringer (May 21, 2004)

The way I see it, it is just a support so I can draw the gauge back a little farther. The miter bar will still be in the slot.


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## Gottagofishin (Dec 17, 2005)

That's makes sense. So the slot in the support has a little slop in it and you are relying on the slot in the table for square.


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## dicklaxt (Jun 2, 2005)

Mike buy a top of the line skill saw & blade/blades and take a look at this site.

http://www.todayshomeowner.com/video/how-to-make-perfect-crosscuts-and-rip-cuts-with-a-circular-saw/

dick


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## MT Stringer (May 21, 2004)

dicklaxt said:


> Mike buy a top of the line skill saw & blade/blades and take a look at this site.
> 
> http://www.todayshomeowner.com/video/how-to-make-perfect-crosscuts-and-rip-cuts-with-a-circular-saw/
> 
> dick


I have a track saw and it gets used a lot. I just want to eliminate the hassle of the Incra miter bar slipping off the rear of the table when I pull it back. This little table extension should work nicely. If not, I will throw it away! 

I have the two pieces of mdf glued together. Maybe in a few days I will get a chance to finish it. I have a lot of irons in he fire at the moment.


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## dicklaxt (Jun 2, 2005)

Nuff said,,,but one other avenue to travel.... David Mark's was a master at jig's,,,,,,,,,,Look him up I'll bet he had one.

dick


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