# leader question



## Mont

Heavy mono or stainless steel? Or both in a spread? Which one works best?


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## skidmark

Mont said:


> Heavy mono or stainless steel? Or both in a spread? Which one works best?


 stainless steel will ruin the action of your fly.


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## gater

*Leaders*



Mont said:


> Heavy mono or stainless steel? Or both in a spread? Which one works best?


Mont, NO steel....we typically use 80-125# mono (some prefer flourocarbon) and if you are not using a double line and wind on they should be about 6ft long tied to a good ball bearing swivel. Don't skimp on the swivel, most use Sampo's which are pricey but we have had good luck with the Spro's which are a little cheaper. Gater


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## Mizpah

Mont- Both will work. I tend to prefer mono, typically 130 lb., for a combination of trolling, drifting and casting. Lighter line, say 80 lb. or fluorocarbon may get you a few more strikes if the water is unusually clear but we tend to get away with the heavier mono given the typical water clarity on teh mid and upper coast. Over the years I've fished 50-200 lb mono and fluoro and have settled on 130 lb Suffix for the most part.

Some folks prefer wire mostly for trolling as the thinner diameter tends to cut through the water better, especially for the heavier, deeper baits. Definitely harder on the hands when leadering fish but not bad if you keep the leader fairly short. Also harder to release those pesky sharks. If you want to try wire, the coffee colored Malin coils in 140-180+ lb or so will do the job.

Happy hunting...


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## Bill C

I spent a month or so crewing for a guide in the keys one year and he never used more than 100# mono and caught plenty of big tarpon.

I generally use either 50 or 80# fluorocarbon. I don't know how important it is to use the fluorocarbon but I figure it can't hurt-except in the wallet.


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## southtexasreds

I've always been told to use mono or flouro, 50-80#. 

I caught one a few weeks ago on a heavy cable leader and dead (still frozen) finger mullet. Go figure. (was onthe rocks and thought I'd be covered up in kings/spanny, and was just being lazy)


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## cpthook

I use 30 lb big game on my reels and double the last 10 feet with a spider knot to make 5 feet of double 30. I then use back to back uni knots with 100# mono to the double line 30. This has worked well for me but I am self taught and have not fished with any experts. 95% of the time I use home-made ****-pops drifted, trolled and for casting as well. I use a uni know for my terminal tackle as well.


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## TrueblueTexican

*It just depends*

If you are chunking or live lining and want to stop bite-off from shark , I go up to 6' of 150# mono or 90# Surflon Micro supreme tyable wire -- hard wire will break on violent head shakes - we mostly throw **** pops or fish live menhaden under balloons or big mullet on bottom, and at anchor in chum lines - we don't chase em - got it figured now that they come to us late in the day --


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## marc

*leaders...*

I agree with cpthook... No swivel, but you will have to get the loops out of your line on the way back to port by running them out the back. Start with 50 pound mono then go with a uni knot to the 80 pound leader. Then, I do a little something different to connect the 80 to the 130 pound bite leader. I kinda rig it like a fly fishing setup with loop knots. This allows us to change hooks and jigs without having to take the time to rig on the boat.

I recomend that you use nothing under 50 pounds for your main line. The average fight time for fish over 130 pounds on our boat is less than 8 min. We swabbed a couple 150's in under 5 min earlier this year. Set the drag tight and pour the coals to'em. They give up easy when they feel the pressure.


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## haparks

u guys r fueling my dreams i love it i want one so bad i can taste it


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## Dawg

The guide I used in the Keys used 80lb mono about 6 ft long without any issues. I even brought in a few sharks without breaking off,was my lucky day.


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