# Ultimate Bunk Boards?



## Gr8_Outdoorsman (Jun 2, 2007)

I thought that it would be a good time to replace the bunks on my trailer and was looking at my options. The boat is a Tracker PT175 on a galvenized trailer. Initially I was going to go the untreated wood route with carpet, but I found these *Ultimate* *Bunk* Boards by browsing online.

http://www.ultimatebunkboards.com/index.html

They are a little pricey (It will cost $132 to replace my boards), but the company warrants them for the life that you own the trailer which sounds appealing. Additionally, I would never have to jack with carpet, rotting wood and staples again. Any how, I was curious if any of you have experience with them.

Also, my bunks are currently screwed in with large lag screws. Would it be a better install to go back with counter sunk carriage bolts?

Thanks!


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## paragod (Aug 25, 2006)

Its like composite deck boards I used it once on a pontoon trailer I built and yes thru bolt it with CB the lags will waller out.


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## jackieblue (Jun 13, 2006)

I put *Ultimate* *Bunk* Boards on my trailer about three years ago, best move I ever made. The boat loads and unloads so much easier.
Drill holes and countersink the heads, use stainless bolts, washers, and nuts. Do not unhook the bow until you are in the water, the boat will slide very easy. If you can get the runners in the water a little you can load the boat. The boards will not harm the bottom or sides of the boat.


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## Gr8_Outdoorsman (Jun 2, 2007)

Thank you Jackieblue. That was exactly what I was looking for.

I sent some questions to the company last night and got a quick response. Here is what they stated:
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Thank you for your interest in our product.
Our boards are made from 100% polyethylene plastic, not the polypropylene composites you find elswhere.
This makes our boards much stronger.
I have these boards on my riveted boat and have had zero problems with the rivets.
Yes, our product can be easily fabricated for counter-sink holes.

I hope this helps and am sure you will be more than satisfied.

Thanks,

Joe Bova
UBB
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It sounds like they are made from different materials than the composites that are found at the big box stores. I think I am going to give them a try and will post up my thoughts on them. Thank you all for the feedback.


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## Viking48 (Jan 24, 2006)

Before you order give your local plastics distributor (Regal etc) a call and check the price on black repro UHMW in whatever dimensions you need. You might also see about buying a block and cutting it yourself to save the cutting charge ( you can cut it on a table saw or with a circular saw). Don't know how the prices compare since I've been out of it for awhile but that is what they are using. Might be cheaper to pick it up locally. As to the product, you will love it but like the other poster said, don't unhook too early. We put some on a levee in LA so folks could drag their boats from one pond to another and the first couple had to chase their boats when they crested the top.


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## Gr8_Outdoorsman (Jun 2, 2007)

Unfortunately I have already ordered them. It came to $132 w/ shipping.

If someone else goes the plastic route that you mention, it would be interesting to hear how well it works. One difference would be that the UBB claim to have a textured side to give them a little more grip.

Regarding the levee ramps in La, we would jump right through them with the 18ft tunnel hulls. The first time my guide buddy brought me across one, he liked to have scared the mess out of me. I just knew he was gonna stop so we could pull the boat over, but no he throttled up. He kept right on going and pushed the motor out so we could slide across. I had forgotten about those until you mentioned it.


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## Viking48 (Jan 24, 2006)

The park guys got a real kick out of them when they first put them in. Watched one after another grab hold of the boat, give a mighty heave and watch their boat sail across to the other side. Lots of folks use it for bunks (which is why several companies sell products like you bought) and they work great. UHMW has great properties - slick, wear resistant etc. We made sprockets that would outlast steel. Fun product to sell - hated to get out of the field.


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## Gr8_Outdoorsman (Jun 2, 2007)

A couple of updates on the Ultimate Bunk Boards so far....

They arrived in well-boxed DHL packages. They seem like they will fit the bill nicely and didn't appear to be overly flexible like I had feared. The textured side should be a decent feature over standard composite boards as it looks like it will give them more grip than the smooth side.

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I had a few minutes so I decided to install the side guide boards. Installation was quick and easy. I also decided to upgrade to galvanized carriage bolts instead of the lag screws that were originally used. No problems drilling and counter sinking the bolts.

While I had the saw out, I went ahead and cut the main runners to size. Also, I took a sander and rounded off the edges to help minimize the chance of hanging a rivet. The boards shaped easily, just like wood.

I like the looks of them so far, but am looking forward to the functionality when I get the main boards bolted on. The thought of a lifetime warranty and no more carpet are certainly pluses.

It may be this weekend before I can complete the install. I will try to post some pics when complete.


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## TheGoose (Jan 22, 2006)

I know this is an old thread but does anyone have any recent experience with these?


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## Sgrem (Oct 5, 2005)

I like em on my last two trailers.


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## paragod (Aug 25, 2006)

This is what happen to a fellow 2 cooler on his Frontier. Couldn't see it till the boat was lifted off the trailer. Had some black plastic lumber don't remember the name but I'm sure he dose.


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## TheGoose (Jan 22, 2006)

My boat is aluminum. I'm getting rid of the carpet.


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## ATX 4x4 (Jun 25, 2011)

That was my boat above. The UBB scarred my boat up after less than 5 launches.

I'd put them under an aluminum boat in a heartbeat but not glass.


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## cva34 (Dec 22, 2008)

jackieblue said:


> I put *Ultimate* *Bunk* Boards on my trailer about three years ago, best move I ever made. The boat loads and unloads so much easier.
> Drill holes and countersink the heads, use stainless bolts, washers, and nuts. Do not unhook the bow until you are in the water, the boat will slide very easy. If you can get the runners in the water a little you can load the boat. The boards will not harm the bottom or sides of the boat.


I Had same experience..


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## paragod (Aug 25, 2006)

Awesome for aluminum they worked great on the pontoon boat.


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## GulfCoast1102 (Dec 30, 2013)

Gr8_Outdoorsman said:


> Unfortunately I have already ordered them. It came to $132 w/ shipping.
> 
> If someone else goes the plastic route that you mention, it would be interesting to hear how well it works. One difference would be that the UBB claim to have a textured side to give them a little more grip.
> 
> Regarding the levee ramps in La, we would jump right through them with the 18ft tunnel hulls. The first time my guide buddy brought me across one, he liked to have scared the mess out of me. I just knew he was gonna stop so we could pull the boat over, but no he throttled up. He kept right on going and pushed the motor out so we could slide across. I had forgotten about those until you mentioned it.


I bought HDPE plastic cutting board material (from a place that sells custom cutting boards), cut to the dimensions of my choice, and fastened it to 2x6 bunks on my trailer. Works perfectly. The plastic was about $130 shipped to my door. I really like it.


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