# Inside the Curado 200G



## Bantam1

Since there has been some talk about the poor quality and use of low quality materials inside the reel, I decided to take some pictures and show once and for all that it is not true. I took these pictures with an IPhone. I apologize if the photo quality is lacking a little. Someone stole my good camera with a macro lens and I have not replaced it.










Here we can see the use of brass alloy gearing and a steel key washer. There is no plastic in the main or pinion gears. We are still using a plastic yoke like we have in the past.










With the gears removed you can see the same hard chromed clutch cam retainer that we have used for years. The ratchet is stamped steel and there is the Assist Stopper. The drag washer material has changed slightly fromt he previous models to improve durability.










Yes we are still using a hard plastic for the idle gears like we have for years.










The drive shaft is aluminum and uses the same coating that we use in the Core model reels. By using aluminum here it allows us to shave a lot of weight off the reel.










Here is the gearing and drag system laid out to show there is no trick photography or use of low quality materials.










Inside the graphite side plate like the A, B and E models used. A standard anti reverse bearing is installed like we have been using for years. A BNT0194 stainless bearing for the spool can be seen as well.


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## Bantam1

*Curado G cont'd*

Here is the aluminum worm shaft, line guide and plastic shield for the worm shaft.










The aluminum frame and pinion support bearing.










Here is something I wanted to point out. We are using a plastic bushing for the clutch spring. This helps prevent corrosion in this area from dissimilar metals, and it allows for a clutch that will operate smoothly by preventing any bind in this area.










Here is another feature we added to also help reduce corrosion. There are dissimilar metals between the pinion support bearing and the clutch cam retainer. By use of a plastic bushing we are able to prevent the two from touching and starting electrolysis on both parts. Those smart engineers.










I hope this sheds a little light on the new model for all those that questioned it.


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## Gilbert

great post's


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## mas360

Very informative presentation. I guess I can buy a G now with confidence.

Photo quality is nice. Must be a Curado Iphone you used for these pix....:fish:


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## Bantam1

I Phone 4 through Verizon if it makes any difference. It does have a fancy Magpul Field Case surrounding it :biggrin:


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## Lexy1

Nice post about a detailed Curado G series.
Personally, I still pick a curado E series over G series anyday even I'm a big Shimano fan/user/collector.


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## Dipsay

Thanks for posting B! I especially love the grommet for the clutch spring and the clutch cam retainer. I had no idea that they had added that. Great improvements! Just curious, what is that drag material made out of? Looks similar to the dartanium drag.


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## alldaylong

_*Great stuff!!! Appreciate it Bantam1:smile:*_


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## rjc1982

Dipsay said:


> Thanks for posting B! I especially love the grommet for the clutch spring and the clutch cam retainer. I had no idea that they had added that. Great improvements!


X2 on the grommet for the clutch retainer spring. BTW Dip, do you have any tips on installing that bugger. My old eyes, and fat fingers have a bear of a time installing that sucker.


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## Dipsay

rjc1982 said:


> X2 on the grommet for the clutch retainer spring. BTW Dip, do you have any tips on installing that bugger. My old eyes, and fat fingers have a bear of a time installing that sucker.


If you're talking about installing that spring, clutch and clutch cam.. First you put the spring in. Fit that clutch in the clutch cam and hold it it there till you get that spring through the hole in the clutch. set the clutch cam bar to the top position and hold pressure on the spring side of the clutch cam while twisting that cam around till it pops in. If there isnt any binding on the spring it should hold it in there till you get that retainer to seat on top.. Hope that made sense.. LMAO! ..Dip


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## Bantam1

Dip-

It is Dartanium but we changed the composition a little. It is supposed to last longer now. Time will tell. 

rjc-

For the clutch this is how I do it on low profile reels. 

Install the spring first. 

Fit the clutch pawl onto the spring

Install the clutch cam. 

By doing it this way the pawl has a little less tension and allows for more wiggle room. I like to rotate the cam into position after I have it all mostly lined up. However, everyone will have a slightly different way of doing things. Dipsays method will work, and so will mine.


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## slinginplastic

I know this is slightly off topic but on the 200e7, I read on here that Dipsay recommends soaking the main and pinion gears in acetone. How long do these need to soak. As much as I clean my reels, the main gear has become corroded (Spelling?). Also, I want to order new bearings to help make it a little smoother being that they are old and Im sure getting worn out. Which ones do yall suggest and can I order them off the Shimano Website? Thanks for the help in advance. Slingin


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## mas360

Bantam, 
Do you recommend taking the side plate off and drop the whole reel in an Ultrasonic cleaner to clean out corrosive salt before re-oiling? 

I am just thinking of a possible short cut.


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## Dipsay

slinginplastic said:


> I know this is slightly off topic but on the 200e7, I read on here that Dipsay recommends soaking the main and pinion gears in acetone. How long do these need to soak. As much as I clean my reels, the main gear has become corroded (Spelling?). Also, I want to order new bearings to help make it a little smoother being that they are old and Im sure getting worn out. Which ones do yall suggest and can I order them off the Shimano Website? Thanks for the help in advance. Slingin


 not acetone bro. I soak the gear set and other brass parts in a mixture of CLR and Simple green. Soak those bearings in acetone for a bit and blow them out. see if that helps..Dip


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## crabtrap

Is the main shaft riding in a bushing or bearing on the G? Bushings supporting the levelwind?


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## bragwell

Thanks for posting pics of the 50G! It looks quite good on the inside for sure.


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## Pro Reel

Hey Bantam, how about listing what the exact difference is between the E and the G curado as in materials of spool, bearings and placement etc.


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## Bantam1

The dirve shaft is supported by a bearing. The worm shaft is riding on bushings like the previous models. 

The bearings and materials are the same between the E and G models. The G lacks two bearings which are missing from the handle paddles. The E model has one bearing per paddle. The spools are almost identical in weight, the dimensions are just a little different. I think we use A 7075 for the spool. The gears are brass alloy. The worm shaft is the hard anodized aluminum similar to what we use in the Core. It helps reduce weight. The E used a chrome plated brass worm shaft. 

Mas- If the reel is going into a sonic cleaner then we will tear it down to a bare frame. This ensures a cleaner frame when it is done. 

Strikehook- This is a 200G. We do not offer a Curado 50G model at this time. Just want to clarify that.


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## crabtrap

Very informative post and we thank you!


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## slinginplastic

Thanks Dip, I was hoping you would chime in. Do you clean reels for people? I live in Lake Jackson, and if you do can I get your information and how much you charge? I clean mine regularly but am not a pro by any means.


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## Dipsay

PM sent brotha...Dip


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## raude762

Nice post Bantam.... I'm sure everyone reading this post greatly appreciates the info.


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## MattK

Bantam1 said:


> Here is another feature we added to also help reduce corrosion. There are dissimilar metals between the pinion support bearing and the clutch cam retainer. By use of a plastic bushing we are able to prevent the two from touching and starting electrolysis on both parts. Those smart engineers.


 I wish those smart engineers were thinking about electrolysis when they decided to use brass star drag nut on an anodized aluminum drive shaft. :\

That's my only complaint with the G series Curado but it's a pretty significant one. Luckily I can replace it with the drive shaft off the Citica which isn't aluminum or maybe use an aluminum star drag nut.

By no means did this customer do any maintenance on this reel but at the same time it was only 6-7 months old. Obviously if he had serviced it or done a little maintenance this might have been avoided. At the same time, this was never a problem with previous model Curados.


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## george.maness86

Good point but it looks to me like they did nothing to even try to keep the reel in working order. Looks like it could have been dunked and either didn't clean it out or hosed it down and put it up.


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## MattK

No doubt about it.


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## george.maness86

Job security though


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## Dipsay

Matt!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Brotha long time no see!!!!!!!!!!!!!! How ya been?


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## kenny

Thanks bantam,
Good info. That clutch spring area is where both my 50MG's finally failed (the second one just last month). The magnesium frame just crumbled.


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## Drundel

Wow, that's pretty bad. Wonder if some anti-seize would help prevent that.


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## MattK

Dipsay said:


> Matt!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Brotha long time no see!!!!!!!!!!!!!! How ya been?


Hey Dip good to see ya. Been great and busy as ever with some new stuff we're doing around the shop. Maybe I throw up a post to show you what we have going on over here.


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## Bantam1

Good to see you back on the boards Matt. I'll run this by our QC team and see what they say. To be honest this is the first complaint I have seen about this. I would think going to the aluminum square nut from the Curado E would be an easy fix.


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## MattK

The Curado E has a brass square nut but an aluminum handle nut. I was going to try the aluminum nut from the Core 100mg because I think it's a bit bulkier that one from the Ch50Mg. The stock one that comes on the Curado G has a channel/groove for the spring to seat in and I don't think any one the aluminum ones have that. I don't think the spring will wander too much or cause any problems. I've got some laying around so I'll see what works best and let ya know.


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## Bantam1

Keep me in the loop on this. I sent the email to our QC people. I am not sure what will happen, but they are informed so we can keep an eye on it. If the problem is large enough like the key washer issue on the E, we will make a running change. 

I thought the Curado E has a plated nut? I could be wrong. I don't work in repair any longer so I do not see the parts every day like I used to. I have a hard enough time keeping up with my regular work these days. The joys of taking on multiple brands under one roof.


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## MattK

Will do. We've only had a few dozen of the G's come through the shop and this was the only one that I've seen with that problem.


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## dbuswell

i just miss the paint from the curado E. i actually bought a caenan and it is a fun little reel to fish so i can imagine the curado G would be even nicer.


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## MattK

The paint?


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## jimbojr

This is an example of galvanic corrosion and not electrolysis. In this case
the needed electrolyte to produce the corrosion was either saltwater or
even freshwater polluted with enough acids.


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## MattK

Technically yes it is galvanic corrosion.


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## jimbojr

Maybe the engineers will design a reel composed entirely of noble metals.


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## Bantam1

I have been providing a lot of info behind the scenes for different materials. I am trying to get the product team to make an inshore specific reel that will not corrode easily, yet still offer the same performance. There are several materials out that we need to be looking at. Hopefully the info will be relayed to the engineers.


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## MattK

You should get the suits to hire Dipsay and I for input and product testing. We will require a petty cash fund for beer, bait, and BBQ.


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## Bantam1

Something tells me the funds for beer would exceed the BBQ and bait.


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## Dipsay

MattK said:


> You should get the suits to hire Dipsay and I for input and product testing. We will require a petty cash fund for beer, bait, and BBQ.


 LMMFGDAO!!!!!!!!!!! Beer? Crown baby! Dont forget.. Thats how I rate a reel. The average is 2 to 3 crowns to fix a reel..If it's a 5 Crown reel dats one jacked up reel...And you'll most likely be missing a clicker...Hahahha!


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## MattK

So I decided to take the rest of the cu200g apart and see what other damage there was. It seems that the brass drive gear also reacted with the aluminum drive shaft which wasn't a surprise. Another concern I have is with the aluminum worm gear. I suspect there will be issues with that just like there were on the Ch50mg's aluminum worm gear. The mix of metals, aluminum worm gear, copper washer, and stainless e-clip, corroded the end of the worm gear on the 50Mg's if they were not cared for properly. It's amazing what a little grease will do to prevent these problems from happening. Is there anyway y'all could bring back the Ch100sf?


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## george.maness86

Yeah that was DUNKED and not cared for at all. I understand mixing metals like that may not come out as well but if you take care of your equipment you wont have this issue.


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## Bantam1

I couldn't agree more. This is a total lack of maintenance buy the user.


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## Smackdaddy53

You mean reels arent self maintaining? You have to keep them clean for them to work?!? Lol

http://www.fishingscout.com/anglers/SmackDaddy


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## Dipsay

Seen a few of those before.. Throw some duct tape on them threads.. they still gotta little life left...:rotfl:


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## dbuswell

MattK said:


> The paint?


The paint job. The 200e had kind of a pearl green bronze-ish color in the sun.


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