# Alumacraft, Seaark or Alweld?



## RC04 (Mar 26, 2016)

Prospective first-time boat owner. I'm finally giving in to spending the money to get a boat to fish some flats around Galveston/Freeport area. I don't have or want to be in debt 30 - 35k. Trying to stay under 20k, so looking at 16' - 18', either flat bottom or mod V Seaark, Alumacraft or Alweld with a tunnel hull and sponsons for running shallow. I've fished for 50 years in this area, but never owned a boat. Looking for experienced boat owner's suggestions and opinions. Please help with some does and don't, pros and cons. Thanks


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## wiznut (Jun 10, 2013)

The best thing you can do as a first time boat owner is buy a cheap used boat along the lines of what you are looking at. Everybody has their own taste to what boat will work best for their fishing style. The only way to learn your taste is to buy one, fish it, and decide what things you would like to change about it. 

As far as aluminum boats go, I recommend not buying anything thinner than a 0.10" hull. If you want a boat that will last you a long time, go .125". 

Flat bottom will get you shallower, but is a wet and rough ride in heavy chop. This comes down to your personal fishing style. A tunnel and sponsons are definitely great things to have on either design for running much of the Texas coast. 

Another thing to think about is boat width. Going to the next wider hull will make a much greater difference in stability and comfort versus an extra foot in length. A 52" bottom is about the minimum that I would recommend.


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## Capt500 (Sep 9, 2013)

^^^ This is excellent advice. I just bought a 2014 lightly used 2072 SeaArk, and am overall impressed with it's build quality. There are a few spots where the wiring could have better chafe protection, but overall I'm happy. I can't comment from experience on the other brands you've listed, but I hear good things about them. I agree with the 0.125 thickness- it is quite strong and will hold up better to the abuse that will inevitably happen running around on the bay. 

Without knowing your specific fishing style, I'd recommend not going smaller than 18'. As said above, get as much beam as you can. 16' isn't much boat if you have to cross the open parts of the bay very often.

Aluminum flat bottom or mod-v hulls will beat you to death in choppy conditions. I guess that's the trade off for their ease of maintenance compared to fiberglass. I think you are on the right path toward a good first boat with regards to cost, etc. Have an open mind to making modifications that fit your needs. Good luck!


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## Capt500 (Sep 9, 2013)

http://2coolfishing.com/ttmbforum/showthread.php?t=1875146

Just saw this posted in the Classified. No affiliation....not sure of its length, but appears to be 16-18'


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## Elturbobug (Sep 9, 2012)

I don't own any of the brands you asked about, but I do own a 17 ft AL boat w/54" beam. No tunnel or sponsons.
My suggestions after owning this boat for 3yrs.
Go longer than you think you need. You won't regret it.

Go wider than you think you need. You won't regret it. ( I would start looking at boats with at least 72" beam, minimum)

Go with the max rated hp for the hull. You won't regret it. (Commercial hulls have no max hp rating. Which is good in my eyes)

Go with more "dry" storage than you think you need. You won't regret it. Make salesman prove it is truly dry. Effective seals on top are required.

Look for a boat with a tall tunnel and raised transom. This will allow you to raise the engine higher for shallower water.

Get it with a jack plate or have enough budget to add it yourself.

Don't believe anything a salesman says about how shallow their hull will run. Have them prove it with the size engine you are going to buy.

Buying a used boat is a great idea. Go into it knowing that you might have to repower it. Build that into the budget if the motor is more than 4-5 yrs old. Nothing stinks like a dead motor 10 miles from the dock.

Rob.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk


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## waterspout (May 21, 2004)

fresh alum good,,,, salt no dice..... that is all! just a fy from my expreinece..... also make sure its thick as stated and well insulted etc. or you will listen to it all day long! :brew2: those cajuns make some killer alumi boats to fit your need. and thick...... shop around.


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## Shin-Diggin (Jun 17, 2005)

I had a weld craft and really enjoyed that rig. Wish I still had it.


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## Totally Tuna (Apr 13, 2006)

My recommendation would be to find a 18-19' Kenner. There are plenty of them out there, some with tunnels and some without. It will be smoother riding and will fish just about anywhere you would take the above mentioned boats. You should be able to find one in decent condition for $8-10K. They are great boats, easy to clean, easy to refurb, customize, or whatever you want to do. Be sure to get the v-bottom hulls and not the style similar to the old Redfins. Not sure what year they started making that V-hull design, but they are excellent boats.


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## Ducker Rich (Apr 19, 2010)

I had a 16' semi-v that we ran all the back bays. It was great for a first boat. The best aluminum for fishing around those areas, IMO is an 18-20' semi-v with sponsons and tunnel, as wide as you can get. The other post are correct, get as thick as you can. Also put as much power as you can afford. Just because you have it doesn't mean you have to use it, but when you need it, you will be happy you have it. With that size boat you can fish 3 guys pretty easily and carry a decent load of gear. Being a new boat owner, with aluminum you don't have to worry about the sand bars and reefs as much as a fiberglass boat. You will find them one way or another!
DR


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## gotmuddy (Dec 19, 2013)

my boat has a 5 degree vee, and I would highly suggest any alum boat to have it.


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## Texan J.C. (Aug 12, 2015)

*Differences...*

My very first boat was a 17' Alumacraft mod-V like a lot of the guys are talking about. It was a great first boat, but after about 10 years of USE, it was in serious need of a good aluminum welder....I know, this is where everyone is going to get me but....I had a 1544 Alweld, I just let go of not to long ago, and that thing was twice the boat the Alumacraft was. In MY experience, I would stay away from the Alumacraft. Sea Arks are TANKS, but they are a little more pricey. Have to make a pro/con list and lay it out. Hope this helps.


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## tommy261 (May 3, 2006)

*alumacraft*

I have had an 1860 alumacraft going on 11 yrs now.....love this boat . Had no hull problems. It will run very shallow. I run a 90hp yamaha with cupped 4 blade prop.(36mph is plenty fast). You cant go wrong with this boat...i also had a seaark which a buddy runs now....both great boats but alumacraft would be my choice.


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## BFI (Jan 11, 2006)

I fish the same waters and have had several aluminum boats over the years. My favorite was a 16 ft modified v with a 60 hp engine. It would run shallow enough...not super skinny but ok. The modified v will help a little with the chop and won't slide as much in turns. When you look for a hull, do your homework on the deadrise of the hull, whether it be the tradiional flatbottom or the mod v type that is what will affect the ride more than anything. A boat without the proper deadrise is gonna knock your teeth out. There's been some great advice given so far. I think the best thing I can tell you is this; you've gone all these years boatless. Take your time and don't just settle. Figure out what you can't live without and your budget. There are good deals to be had you've just got to be pacient, have your eyes peeled and put the word out. If your buying used take a compression gauge and a few hand tools with you and ask to check the powerhead for compression and crack open the drain plug on the lower unit to check for water intrusion. Take it to the water for a wet test. Checking it on a flusher hose doesn't show the true performance. Check the hull for electrolisis/corrosion. Take a buddy along. A second set of eyes will notice those little things that you might miss.


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## troutmauler (Dec 7, 2006)

I have an 1860 alumacraft tunnel with a 90hp Johnson, 3 blade cupped prop. I get about 36mph. I also have a 1648 sea ark with a 40hp jet drive mod vee. The Alumacraft does what I want it to. It's a rougher ride than a fiberglass boat and hotter too. I'm not worried about docking or running up on a bank to park. Easy to unload by yourself. The sea ark is a bare bones boat I use for duck hunting. Definitely not as stable, and a lot rougher ride. The Alumacraft was factory built wider around the center console than the other boats built around 2003, which gives you a little extra walking room on the sides. The one thing I really miss is the storage space. There is not very much. I have had to repair some welds on both boats. I run in saltwater. If I were you, I would get a Minimum of 18' of boat, and as big a motor allowed. Overall, I love my Alumacraft, it's a great river and marsh boat. Does ok in the open bay. What I would look for in buying another (center console of course):
1. Hull thickness
2. length and width
3. size motor
4. Tunnel or No Tunnel (your choice about 6" diff in draft)
5. Storage
Hope this helps, and ask as many questions as you want.


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## Txredfish (Oct 27, 2010)

I own a 18' Alumacraft with a 70 HP Yamaha. I have owned it for 9 years. I fish a lot around the Rockport area. It has sponsons and tunnel hull. Like others have said, it does ride rough in choppy waters (2 ft). Gets up on plane in shallow water very quick. When stuck on a shallow reef, very easy to push off.
The only drawback is you have to watch your days and not be out in high winds in Aransas Bay. Also, depth finders do not work very good because of the turbulance caused by the sponsons and tunnel hull. Otherwise, I really like my boat.


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## RC04 (Mar 26, 2016)

Wow, thanks for all of the responses. Some very good info! Unless I find something used in great shape, I'll be going with a new boat. I fish with a buddy of mine in his Alumacraft 2072 Bay Boat. Really nice boat, but about 10k more than what I'm budgeting for my buy. Going with an Alumacraft, even in 1860 will be pushing 25k. Ouch! So far I have two boats in mind. 

1) 17' x 56" Alweld Marsh flat bottom jon w/tunnel and sponsons, center console w/live well, larger top lid locking storage adding more bow fishing deck, and 50 hp Tohatsu 4 stroke, $18k drive out. 

2) 17' x 60" Seaark mod v jon w/tunnel and sponsons, center console w/live well, large top lid storage adding to the rear seat w/seat cushion to sit while driving, 50 hp Yamaha 4 stroke, $19k drive out. 

What to get??? So many options, which all cost $$$! Can add extras later once I get over the sticker shock...


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## GuyFromHuntsville (Aug 4, 2011)

wiznut said:


> *The best thing you can do as a first time boat owner is buy a cheap used boat along the lines of what you are looking at. Everybody has their own taste to what boat will work best for their fishing style. The only way to learn your taste is to buy one, fish it, and decide what things you would like to change about it.*
> 
> As far as aluminum boats go, I recommend not buying anything thinner than a 0.10" hull. If you want a boat that will last you a long time, go .125".
> 
> ...


This is the best advice. Your first boat will never be your last.


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## caddis (Jan 22, 2012)

You can get a pretty nice used boat for $18-20k, with warranty left on the engine! Check here, Craig'slist and boattrader. Do the advanced search on boattrader. I've seen 18' 2-3 year old aluminum with under 30 hours for about $10k.


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## RC04 (Mar 26, 2016)

Thanks to everyone. Bunch of good advice. I'll look around and try finding something used while I still be making up my mind what I really want. Hope to see y'all soon on the water.


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## troutmauler (Dec 7, 2006)

Another thing I might add, is the seating. My boat has the swingback cooler seat, and I hate it. It is comfortable to sit, but I would much rather have the cooler flip flop style or a leaning post with a way to store a cooler underneath. That way you can remove, wash, access the cooler better. Here is the type I have.


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## RC04 (Mar 26, 2016)

Thanks. I will look into that type of seat/cooler setup.


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## cfulbright (Jun 24, 2009)

The best riding small alum boat has to be the alweld by far, next on my list would be the seaark but it has some features I dont care for.


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## RC04 (Mar 26, 2016)

cfulbright said:


> The best riding small alum boat has to be the alweld by far, next on my list would be the seaark but it has some features I dont care for.


When you say Alweld, are you talking about the mod v? I've been considering getting the Alweld Marsh flat bottom 17' x 56" with tunnel hull and sponsons for better hole shot and stability while fishing. Besides flat bottom is a little cheaper and more fishing room. I guess it's a sacrifice of one thing to gain another....


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## terryguidry (Jun 6, 2011)

*war eagle*

War eagle boats 17' on up have 12 degree v's


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## RC04 (Mar 26, 2016)

Any thoughts or suggestions on this set up? I'm waiting to get specs and price back on a Seaark 17' or 18', both 60" wide, also. 

ALWELD 17' X 56" FLAT MARSH SERIES CENTER CONSOLE
PERFORMANCE TUNNEL & PONTOONS NON-SKID INTERIOR UPGRADE
TWO-TONE PAINT BLUE OUTSIDE, FLAT GRAY INSIDE
NAVIGATION LIGHTS AND TROLLING MOTOR PACKAGE
AERATED LIVE WELL
SEAT PAD ON LIVE WELL
TWO GRAY/CHARCOAL FOLDING CUSHION SEATS
AUTO BILGE PUMP
LOCKING FRONT DECK STORAGE
4 CLEATS WELDED ON
TOHATSU 50 HP 4-STROKE OUTBOARD 20" SHAFT
TRAILER, MAGIC TILT GALVANIZED TRAILER 1500# CAPACITY
WHEEL B78X13C SPOKE GALV


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## wiznut (Jun 10, 2013)

RC04 said:


> Any thoughts or suggestions on this set up? I'm waiting to get specs and price back on a Seaark 17' or 18', both 60" wide, also.
> 
> ALWELD 17' X 56" FLAT MARSH SERIES CENTER CONSOLE
> PERFORMANCE TUNNEL & PONTOONS NON-SKID INTERIOR UPGRADE
> ...


That hull is rated for 70hp. As others have mentioned, ALWAYS put the max rated outboard on a hull. You will greatly diminish resale value and desirability by under powering a hull. Nobody wants an under powered boat. Skip some of those extras if you have to in order to spring for the bigger motor.

I also don't see a jack plate on that list. 100% needs one to get the most out of having a tunnel.


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## Beakbuster (Apr 28, 2015)

That 50 is going to be a disappointment.

Go with the 70 or a 90 of available...


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## BigBay420 (Jun 20, 2005)

*Alumacraft 1860*

I bought this boat brand new from the boat show in 04. The boat they had on the floor had a 70hp yamaha but I ordered the same boat with a 90hp yamaha. It came with the flip flop cooler in the middle and the best thing I ever did is junk it and moved the weight to the rear. The boat rides 100% better now. You can actually see the front getting beat up and I can sit and drive with no problem. I haven't had ANY problems at all with it.


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## BigBay420 (Jun 20, 2005)

*Boat*

Sorry can't fix the pic.


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## Kyle Billings (May 1, 2011)

Lots of good honest advise here, I have owned my alumacraft for 3 years and its been a great boat, I have been all over from port a to the landcut and it will go where most boats cant go. Yes, the ride is rough in lots of chop and wind, but its a sacrifice I'm willing to make for the ease of maintenance and durability. I use my boat for duck hunting, lots of bay fishing, and even light offshore. I have been on some of the smaller options talked about and I personally wouldn't go with one less than 18', when you need the extra length and motor you will be happy to have it. Otherwise anything to get you out there and enjoy the outdoors is what its all about.


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## RC04 (Mar 26, 2016)

Ok, I got alot of good advice and tips from this post, and for that I thank you all. Well I did it, found the boat I believe is going to work for me. Will be picking up my new boat next Wednesday. I got a great deal on a new RXT 180 Seaark (18' x 60") with a 90 hp Evinrude, tunnel hull with sponsons. It has a lot of extras, aluminum center console w/live well that has a seat cushion, 18 gallon bow fuel tank, rear bench storage w/folding back seat cushion, stainless steel package (steering wheel, grab rail, cleats, sponson ladder, prop, all stainless). All for under 20k.

Not getting a jack plate or trolling motor YET, have too many other little things to buy to get water/fishing ready. 

Man, I'm exhausted doing all of this shopping and decision making on what to buy. Need some relaxing time on the water!!! Hopefully I'll see y'all on the water soon.


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## BigBay420 (Jun 20, 2005)

Nice! Basically the same setup I have.


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## cfulbright (Jun 24, 2009)

RC04 said:


> When you say Alweld, are you talking about the mod v? I've been considering getting the Alweld Marsh flat bottom 17' x 56" with tunnel hull and sponsons for better hole shot and stability while fishing. Besides flat bottom is a little cheaper and more fishing room. I guess it's a sacrifice of one thing to gain another....


Sorry im late getting back, yes Mod-v... I see you already made a good choice looks like they fixed the front deck(used to have a 3" step right in the middle), seaark is a great riding boat, my buddies rode like a deep V.


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## Txredfish (Oct 27, 2010)

Looks like a good choice. I have heard a lot of good things about Sea Ark. On my Alumacraft, I have a manual jack plate set up height for prop right in line with tunnel hull. It works very good.


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## Fishdaze (Nov 16, 2004)

Congrats RC! Looks nice.


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## Elturbobug (Sep 9, 2012)

RC04 - - congrats on your new boat. Your choice of solid components and options will pay dividends down the road.

Invest in PFD's first thing.

Part of the fun of owning these boats is rigging them out as time goes by. Be warned...buying things for a boat is addictive.

Rob


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## RC04 (Mar 26, 2016)

Yep, I know about this addiction thing already. I have about $3k more added up to a wish list. Some are immediate buys necessary to get water/fishing ready. Big ticket items like a trolling motor, depth/fish finder, jack plate, etc. will have to wait for Christmas and birthdays. 

Man, this wait is just wrong, having a new boat ready to be picked up. But due to my work schedule, gotta wait until Wednesday when I'm off for 2 days. Should be ready for the water Thursday providing the weather is good. Ready to break that boat in and put some fish on the deck!


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## CoastalOutfitters (Aug 20, 2004)

you can tweak the motor height above the line of the transom to the cav. plate , if it is not already there and run pretty skinny w/o a jack plate. you won't have much reverse control if you get too high, so be careful esp. around ramps full of boats in the wind.

other than the obvious safety required equip and solid anchor/line , get a solid bay or scooter cupped prop from Bauman's or similar.

next a gps and vhf would be high on the list.


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## TheGoose (Jan 22, 2006)

Congrats on the new boat!! Which dealer are you using? Post up some more pics, i would like to see how the SeaArk's are laid out. I saw some at a local dealer but I wasn't sure about some of the features (few places where rivets were used outside the boat). I did like the fact that a lot of their models have an anchor locker, one feature I sorely miss on an al. boat.



RC04 said:


> Yep, I know about this addiction thing already. I have about $3k more added up to a wish list. Some are immediate buys necessary to get water/fishing ready. Big ticket items like a trolling motor, depth/fish finder, jack plate, etc. will have to wait for Christmas and birthdays.
> 
> Man, this wait is just wrong, having a new boat ready to be picked up. But due to my work schedule, gotta wait until Wednesday when I'm off for 2 days. Should be ready for the water Thursday providing the weather is good. Ready to break that boat in and put some fish on the deck!


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## RC04 (Mar 26, 2016)

Thanks. I'm getting it from Northshore Marine Supply in Houston. It's new 2014 RXT 180 Seaark w/2016 90 hp Evinrude. It was one left from the boat show inventory is why I'm getting such a great deal on it. Just when I was about to settle for a 16' x 56 " Alweld Marsh flat bottom w/50 hp Tohatsu tiller steer for just a little less with much less options on it. Then I found a Seaark 16' x 60" Vee Jon with floor, center console, one storage box w/seat behind the console w 50 hp Yamaha, again for just a little less than the one I'm now getting. Glad I held off and did a little more shopping around. Right place, right time I guess.

It's only letting me attach one pic at a time. Going to try and post more. I'll post more when I get it in the water, too. None too soon!!! Lol


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## RC04 (Mar 26, 2016)

CoastalOutfitters said:


> you can tweak the motor height above the line of the transom to the cav. plate , if it is not already there and run pretty skinny w/o a jack plate. you won't have much reverse control if you get too high, so be careful esp. around ramps full of boats in the wind.
> 
> other than the obvious safety required equip and solid anchor/line , get a solid bay or scooter cupped prop from Bauman's or similar.
> 
> next a gps and vhf would be high on the list.


I hope that the prop is set at the optimal position until I can afford to get a jack plate to run shallower waters. Do you have any suggestions on brand and size to go with? I've read so much about the different thicknesses, anywhere from 2" to 5 1/2" that a jack plate will move the motor back. Is keeping the motor closer to the transom or moving back further a better thing?


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## RC04 (Mar 26, 2016)

This site doesn't want to let me load pics very easy!!!


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## jorgepease (Apr 14, 2011)

RC04 said:


> I've read so much about the different thicknesses, anywhere from 2" to 5 1/2" that a jack plate will move the motor back. Is keeping the motor closer to the transom or moving back further a better thing?


If you have a tunnel keep the motor close to the transom, if you don't, then the further back - the higher you can go. You may have to offset the weight of putting it back though.


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## RC04 (Mar 26, 2016)

Yeah, this is the RXT 180, has a tunnel hull with sponsons


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## RC04 (Mar 26, 2016)

Finally got the pics to upload. I'll get better pictures when I pick it up Wednesday


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## wiznut (Jun 10, 2013)

One thing to keep in mind... the correct prop with no jack plate, is the wrong prop with one. Don't spend a lot of time and money propping the boat until you have the big changes like jack plate added.


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## RC04 (Mar 26, 2016)

Ok, thanks. They're outfitting it with a SS prop, not sure of what pitch. I'll stick with it until I change what I have. Probably go to Bauman's when I'm ready to install the jack plate.


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## 8weight (Mar 24, 2016)

That's an awesome boat. I'll be looking at something similar when I'm ready to start my search.

Congrats RC04! Keep the pics coming and especially after you get it on the water and slime it up!


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## RC04 (Mar 26, 2016)

8weight said:


> That's an awesome boat. I'll be looking at something similar when I'm ready to start my search.
> 
> Congrats RC04! Keep the pics coming and especially after you get it on the water and slime it up!


Thank you. I've never been on a Seaark before, but from everything I've heard, they're a great boat. I'll be picking it up on Wednesday and hopefully, weather permitting, I'll have it on the water Thursday. This is my first boat that I'll actually own, patiently waiting! About like a kid waiting for Christmas to come, lol


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## BayouBonsaiMan (Apr 14, 2009)

RC04 said:


> Thank you. I've never been on a Seaark before, but from everything I've heard, they're a great boat. I'll be picking it up on Wednesday and hopefully, weather permitting, I'll have it on the water Thursday. This is my first boat that I'll actually own, patiently waiting! About like a kid waiting for Christmas to come, lol


Congrates to you and family. Careful, boating is addicting!


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## RC04 (Mar 26, 2016)

Yelp, finally got it. Was able to get on the water for a little run and catch fish before the storm front hits. Runs and rides nice, very happy with it.


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## 8weight (Mar 24, 2016)

Sweet! Properly slimed up I see!


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