# Help Me 2cool, 3.5L Ecoboost is Shot



## Fishin' Soldier (Dec 25, 2007)

2014 Ecoboost 3.5L V6 170k Miles. Dealer says I need a new engine. The VCT and cam phasers, rockers are probably worn and causing a terrible noise. They said 900$ to tear down to even diagnose the problem. Won't offer me a trade value as it sits because they have no idea what's wrong. 3 weeks out if I go the route of breaking it down to identify problem. Anyone have any leads on a good used motor? I can get a refab for about 5k it looks like. I owe around $12k still. With no engine problems, he says he could get me $15k for trade value. 

I'd hate to pay the 900 just to have them tell me I need a new motor. I also hate to swap motor if it can be fixed for less than $7k.

Anyone been in this predicament before?


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## Its Catchy (Apr 10, 2014)

I have a 2011 ecoboost with 162,000 miles. It was missing terribly, check engine light was coming on, I was going into failsafe mode and getting stuck on the side of the road until I restarted.

Changed the plugs and it runs like a champ. They are notorious for fouling out plugs and wires and making them run like hammered dog poop.

I am not saying that this is your problem. 170K is a lot of miles and you may be looking at a blown engine.

If you are asking for advice? If the engine is indeed shot I would not put 5,000 more dollars into it. Owing 17,000 dollars on a truck with a "refurbished" engine does not sound like a wise fiscal policy.

One mans opinion, but there comes a point where you are throwing good money after bad.

Maybe someone else can offer a contrasting point of view that makes sense?


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## HUSTLETOWN70 (Jun 17, 2016)

*motor*



Fishin' Soldier said:


> 2014 Ecoboost 3.5L V6 170k Miles. Dealer says I need a new engine. The VCT and cam phasers, rockers are probably worn and causing a terrible noise. They said 900$ to tear down to even diagnose the problem. Won't offer me a trade value as it sits because they have no idea what's wrong. 3 weeks out if I go the route of breaking it down to identify problem. Anyone have any leads on a good used motor? I can get a refab for about 5k it looks like. I owe around $12k still. With no engine problems, he says he could get me $15k for trade value.
> 
> I'd hate to pay the 900 just to have them tell me I need a new motor. I also hate to swap motor if it can be fixed for less than $7k.
> 
> Anyone been in this predicament before?


whats the make and model of your vehicle?


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## Fishin' Soldier (Dec 25, 2007)

Sorry. Ford f150. 

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## Fishin' Soldier (Dec 25, 2007)

Thanks Catchy. I agree that may not be the best route. That's why I am asking opinions. 


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## On The Hook (Feb 24, 2009)

www.carpart.com , find an engine you like and have it shipped in. They made a lot of those trucks, and many have been wrecked with a lot less miles on them than you have. You cannot go to a retail dealer and get reasonable prices on heavy engine work. They are parts changers, not true mechanics. You need a small independent shop that can swap out an engine for a reasonable price.

You have a lot of miles, on a late model vehicle, so you are not is good shape any way you look at it. Try doing some research on the ford truck forums. They will know the ins and outs and can likely help you save a bunch of money.


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## Reel Cajun (Aug 1, 2006)

*Engine*

Iâ€™d want a second opinion pronto. There are some unscrupulous people out there. Make sure they are honest.


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## Swampmamma (Feb 14, 2007)

Its Catchy said:


> I have a 2011 ecoboost with 162,000 miles. It was missing terribly, check engine light was coming on, I was going into failsafe mode and getting stuck on the side of the road until I restarted.
> 
> Changed the plugs and it runs like a champ. They are notorious for fouling out plugs and wires and making them run like hammered dog poop.
> 
> ...


My fiance's truck has been missing like that for months. He finally brought it in to have the plugs changed, got the truck out 2 days later it was running like ****, he brought it in they serviced transmission he went to pick it up and it wouldn't start. He had it fixed again this time coat him 3,000. Traded it in yesterday for a 2015 z71chevy with 7,000 miles.
I was worried to death he was going to give me the burden of this eco boost. I have an 04 Tahoe that I would rather drive. His truck was a 2014. 
My dad has had nothing but problems with his as well his is a 2013.
Good luck!


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## zack3476 (Jun 22, 2012)

To all those with the f150 eco boost misfire, I struggled with it from about 80k- 170k miles. First of all, ford dealerships should warranty their work for a year. If less than a year passes before you have to change plugs/coils, they should cover it minus the charge to put in on the diagnostic machine.

I read about a fix early on and then forgot about it. I finally did it at 170k and never had another issue. Just drill the hole!






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## dk2429 (Mar 27, 2015)

:smile:

Just stirring the pot.. That sucks to hear, I don't understand why they don't back their motors. Obviously you put a ton of miles on it in a pretty short time. They basically want you to pay them for their problems.


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## Hooked (Oct 15, 2004)

Heard this before. Find a reputable shop for a second opinion. Many shops don't do a good job of diagnostics and/or engine repairs.

One of my daughters had a similar diagnosis from a well known shop in College Station when her Expedition was running poorly. No compression, need a new engine. Drove it down to Skeeters in Cypress as we have a lot of faith in his shop. New plugs and a couple coil packs later it runs great again with 350,000 miles on it.


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## jetbuilt (May 4, 2010)

I'd strongly advise that you seek another opinion on the matter, asap. My dad's old single cab 2006 F150 was losing coolant and running rough so he took it to the Ford dealer in Conroe (sorry, I don't know which one but could find out of necessary) and they told him his block was cracked and he needed a new engine. Turns out, he needed only head gaskets...far cheaper repair than quoted by the stealership.


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## TexasWineGuy (Jun 19, 2017)

OP,


1) Do get another opinion.
2) If you need a new engine, by all means drop one in. $5000 is far less money than you buying a new truck. IMO far too many people seem ready to drop $25,000 on a "new" truck, but won't spend $5K for a new motor only.
3) Use Full Synthetic oil in that motor.




Good luck.


TWG


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## Fishin' Soldier (Dec 25, 2007)

TexasWineGuy said:


> OP,
> 
> 1) Do get another opinion.
> 2) If you need a new engine, by all means drop one in. $5000 is far less money than you buying a new truck. IMO far too many people seem ready to drop $25,000 on a "new" truck, but won't spend $5K for a new motor only.
> ...


Thanks. I am picking up the truck this week and bringing to a well known mechanic shop which happens to be my brothers FIL, so I will get a fair opinion from him.

In the mean time this is the sound it is making, only slightly worse. This is not my truck.


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## Fishin' Soldier (Dec 25, 2007)

dk2429 said:


> :smile:
> 
> Just stirring the pot.. That sucks to hear, I don't understand why they don't back their motors. Obviously you put a ton of miles on it in a pretty short time. They basically want you to pay them for their problems.


I drive 75 miles each way to office in morning. Add in lots of hunting and fishing weekend trips around Texas and here we are. Regular oil changes following the manufacturer recommendations, which I now know may not be best. Other than that I have had no issues out of it until recently. At the moment we don't know exactly what is wrong with it. I will have local mechanic tear it down.

This happened going over ship channel pulling boat, the truck down shifted to climb the bridge and check engine light came on and started making this noise.


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## gotmuddy (Dec 19, 2013)

coming from a auto warranty claims adjuster, first get a second opinion. those motors are pretty good, and without teardown no mechanic can tell you whats wrong. If your oil pressure is good then your likely looking at timing chains/phasers. BTW no chance your getting a motor from ford installed for 5k OTD


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## Fishin' Soldier (Dec 25, 2007)

gotmuddy said:


> coming from a auto warranty claims adjuster, first get a second opinion. those motors are pretty good, and without teardown no mechanic can tell you whats wrong. If your oil pressure is good then your likely looking at timing chains/phasers. BTW no chance your getting a motor from ford installed for 5k OTD


I know what Ford has already quoted me. The 5k is for Re-fabbed motor with 100k warranty, plus shipping. The labor will be additional, through local mechanic.


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## Gottagofishin (Dec 17, 2005)

Other than the noise, how is it running? Loss of power, vibrating, gas mileage, etc?


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## kevinmic (Jul 5, 2016)

dk2429 said:


> :smile:
> 
> Just stirring the pot.. That sucks to hear, I don't understand why they don't back their motors. Obviously you put a ton of miles on it in a pretty short time. They basically want you to pay them for their problems.


I have a nice Duramax for Sale down in the classifieds.:cheers:


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## Fishin' Soldier (Dec 25, 2007)

GWBGE said:


> Other than the noise, how is it running? Loss of power, vibrating, gas mileage, etc?


Yes there is a little loss of power at idle it shutters a bit and acts like it may die but doesn't. While actually driving at speed the noise reduces and almost goes away and is loudest at idle.


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## Fishin' Soldier (Dec 25, 2007)

Check engine says 2 Oxygen Sensors, Turbo Underboost, and Camshaft position timing over advanced.


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## barronj (Sep 30, 2013)

zack3476 said:


> I read about a fix early on and then forgot about it. I finally did it at 170k and never had another issue. Just drill the hole!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I drilled a hole in my Wagner aftermarket intercooler after dropping the intercooler to find most of the bottom full of water (it seemed like at least a half a gallon or more of water poured out as soon as I took the charge pipe coupling off), and oil, since my turbos use oil.

It was so common that I would shift to neutral at highway speeds, turn the truck off, start it back up and shift to drive and the limp mode would go away.

I felt a small drop in my performance at tip in, and maybe a small drop overall, but I run a tune so it's still WAY above stock levels.

I think the hole is maybe clogged up now, I can get it to go in to limp mode after rainy days or high humidity, but overall it's still very fun to drive.










2013 F150 EB, 155K miles

I would find a motor on car-part.com as another member suggested. I've bought things off that site, even a ZF 5 speed trans out of a 4x4 F250 for my bronco.


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## TheSamarai (Jan 20, 2005)

that truck has a 170 thousand miles. that's a lot of miles. I think its more than lived up to its expectations.


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## RevRat (Mar 20, 2017)

I have a 2013 [email protected] 109,XXX miles, and while there are a few folks out there that just have really bad luck, all in all I think it's a great motor.


In this situation, my guess is that the tensioner that keeps the slack out of the timing chain has worn out and the sound you are hearing is timing chain slap. It is likely that the cam phasers have gone bad as well. If these are the issue, and you are mechanically inclined (and not afraid to tear into stuff) this can be done in the garage or driveway over a weekend for about $1200 worth of parts. 



It's my understanding that the tensioner is filled with oil and that's how it holds tension on the chain. Motorcraft (and a couple of others, K&N and Mobil 1) filters have a backflow preventer valve that keeps the oil in the system from draining back through the filter, which keeps oil in the tensioner. Lots of people have used different aftermarket filters that do not prevent the draining and got the slapping sound from the tensioner not having oil in it. Most only hear it at start-up, until oil makes its way into the tensioner, but some just hear it forever. I wish I had some way for you to be able to tell if this was the issue, but hopefully this will give you something to look into that's not going to cost $10,000 to resolve.


Again, this is my guess and suspicion. If you already have information ruling this out please disregard my comments.


I hope you get this resolved without too much drama.


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## Bella Monster (Jul 29, 2008)

Fishin' Soldier said:


> Yes there is a little loss of power at idle it shutters a bit and acts like it may die but doesn't. While actually driving at speed the noise reduces and almost goes away and is loudest at idle.


I've dealt with a similar situation.

1. Drill the hole. Nothing bad will come of it do not worry.

2. at least one of your turbos is shot. In my case it was passenger side. I think they cost ~$1600. Tried to blame me for lack of oil level....FALSE. Lifetime warranty covered it. It will be a 6hr job at a dealership, mine turned into 22days but thats another story.

Same exact symptoms as you.

Hope this helps.


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## gotmuddy (Dec 19, 2013)

Fishin' Soldier said:


> Check engine says 2 Oxygen Sensors, Turbo Underboost, and *Camshaft position timing over advanced*.


that one will cause the other two. Before I started buying turbos I would get some better diag.


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## SSST (Jun 9, 2011)

TheSamarai said:


> that truck has a 170 thousand miles. that's a lot of miles. I think its more than lived up to its expectations.


Idk, the engines these days go 170k and alot more, just change the oil when needed. This is why people choose the 5.0, the Eco has tons of power, but longevity is not their strong suit.


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## WoundedMinnow (Oct 11, 2011)

TheSamarai said:


> that truck has a 170 thousand miles. that's a lot of miles. I think its more than lived up to its expectations.


I have a 96 gmc k1500 z71 288000 on the gauge and it still going strong. With today's lubricants and engineering these vehicles should go hundreds of thousands of miles.

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## TheSamarai (Jan 20, 2005)

but if u really stop and think about it 170,000 is a lot of miles. Things got to wear away at some point of time. That cant be the norm.


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## jetbuilt (May 4, 2010)

TheSamarai said:


> but if u really stop and think about it 170,000 is a lot of miles. Things got to wear away at some point of time. That cant be the norm.


170,000 miles really isn't that high for a modern normally aspirated engine in my humble opinion...but turbos certainly compound the equation as they're typically more maintenance intensive.


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## Fishin' Soldier (Dec 25, 2007)

Heading to local mechanic this morning. He is going to go through it.


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## Its Catchy (Apr 10, 2014)

Keep us posted. I have a hunch this may not be a blown engine.

Fingers crossed for you!


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## bwguardian (Aug 30, 2005)

That same power plant is put in the Ford Taurus and Edge...my daughters have one of each. They are good engines with plenty of power, even without the turbos. I agree with the statement above about oil filters not having the drain back preventer valves, which is why I only install the Motorcraft filters and stay away from the Fram units.

If proper maintenance is done, there is no reason these engines can't run 300,000 miles. I have seen it on a Ford Edge forum I am on. Guy has had them since they came out in 2007, and keeps 2 of them given he drives alot of miles with his job. He trades them in at about 250,000-300,000 miles still running good.

When you introduce a turbo or two to a gasoline engine, then there will be issues...which is where I think the op problems are. I would take it to someone that is in tune with that power plant for their opinion and go from there.


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## Its Catchy (Apr 10, 2014)

zack3476 said:


> To all those with the f150 eco boost misfire, I struggled with it from about 80k- 170k miles. First of all, ford dealerships should warranty their work for a year. If less than a year passes before you have to change plugs/coils, they should cover it minus the charge to put in on the diagnostic machine.
> 
> I read about a fix early on and then forgot about it. I finally did it at 170k and never had another issue. Just drill the hole!
> 
> ...


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## Boat 2 (Sep 22, 2016)

I bought a 2015 F 150 with the 6 cylinder 4WD. I hated that motor. Plenty of power to pull a 22â€™ classic Mako but going up some steep roads at our place in Junction the motor would bog down when you gave it gas . Some of these roads you didnâ€™t need your engine to wait and decide when it wanted to go. Sold it a year later .


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## Fishin' Soldier (Dec 25, 2007)

Found a used motor and my mechanic can swap for a total of about 5k. Thinking this is the way I am leaning. 6 month warranty on motor with 35k miles.


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## On The Hook (Feb 24, 2009)

Fishin' Soldier said:


> Found a used motor and my mechanic can swap for a total of about 5k. Thinking this is the way I am leaning. 6 month warranty on motor with 35k miles.


Try to negotiate a longer warranty, or a lower price on the engine itself.


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## gotmuddy (Dec 19, 2013)

Are you sure you need an engine? what did they find out when they took the valve cover off?


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## TexasWineGuy (Jun 19, 2017)

Boat 2 said:


> I bought a 2015 F 150 with the 6 cylinder 4WD. I hated that motor. Plenty of power to pull a 22â€™ classic Mako but going up some steep roads at our place in Junction the motor would bog down when you gave it gas . Some of these roads you didnâ€™t need your engine to wait and decide when it wanted to go. Sold it a year later .


You had the 3.5 EB Turbo? If so, the above does not compute.

The power curve that engine is fantastic.

TWG


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## smokinguntoo (Mar 28, 2012)

Motor health can be determined by a simple leak down test. If the leak down test comes out acceptable, you have other issues.

SG2


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## goodwood (Mar 30, 2009)

Like everyone says get a 2nd opinion. They like to eat timing chains and plugs. They will go 300k miles.


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## goodwood (Mar 30, 2009)

It seemed like you needed a timing chain and sparkplugs.


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## Fishin' Soldier (Dec 25, 2007)

He stated timing chain is fouled, cams and rollers are shot and some minor sludge buildup is causing the internal problems. I did lose oil pressure twice while driving it in this condition to the dealer. Said about 3k to fix, and hope for the best, or 5k for used motor that should last for another 100K+ miles. Motor is warrantied for 6 months and proof of mileage is accurate. I will request longer warranty. In six months I should have put about 20k miles on it and hopefully by then, worked out any kinks. Heading over to his shop this afternoon to discuss more.


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## goodwood (Mar 30, 2009)

Low oil pressure code not good. A replacement is prolly a better idea especially if it's sludged up. Good luck with your repair.


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## gotmuddy (Dec 19, 2013)

Since it has sludge I would go with a motor as well, and also change motor oil and intervals. What do you currently run?


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## Its Catchy (Apr 10, 2014)

Financial advice from a public internet fishing forum is worth what you pay for it. And every situation is different but if I were faced with this fiscal decision. I don't think I would go with a used motor.

You would essentially have 17,000.00 in a truck with a used motor and the rest of the drive train having 170,000 miles on it. Seems like a lot of money to owe on a vehicle with that many miles on it. There is a strong possibility you could have expensive transmission, air conditioning or other repair costs staring at you in the future and this could go from bad to worse.

I would probably look at ways to get out of that vehicle and into something newer. Something with less than 50,000 miles on it. Even with a blown engine a 2014 truck should be worth something? Even a few thousand dollars? 

Maybe instead of putting the 5K in a new engine you use it to pay off some of the old truck and start looking at selling it to cover some of the cost. Then buying a newer truck? Even if you had to roll over some of the negative equity from the old one into the new one.

I would look at it like this. I would much, much rather owe 28,000 dollars on a newer truck with 40,000 miles on it than I would owing 17,000 on a truck with a used engine and 170K miles on the rest of it.

So my advice would most likely be get out from under that truck and get into something newer with less miles on it. 

I hope this helps and whatever choice you make I hope it works out for you.


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## TexasWineGuy (Jun 19, 2017)

OP,


Whatever you do I strongly suggest you use only Full Synthetic oil with that engine, due to the high turbo temperatures.


The turbo manufacturer's themselves recommend it . . . .






TWG


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## thinshavings (May 11, 2010)

TexasWineGuy said:


> OP,
> 
> Whatever you do I strongly suggest you use only Full Synthetic oil with that engine, due to the high turbo temperatures.
> 
> ...


Doesn't Ford spec a syn. oil for these engines?


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## WoundedMinnow (Oct 11, 2011)

Its Catchy said:


> Financial advice from a public internet fishing forum is worth what you pay for it. And every situation is different but if I were faced with this fiscal decision. I don't think I would go with a used motor.
> 
> You would essentially have 17,000.00 in a truck with a used motor and the rest of the drive train having 170,000 miles on it. Seems like a lot of money to owe on a vehicle with that many miles on it. There is a strong possibility you could have expensive transmission, air conditioning or other repair costs staring at you in the future and this could go from bad to worse.
> 
> ...


He owes 12k. New to him motor is 5k. Trade in value ~15k. Put new motor in truck and trade it off on new one. He'll be 2k upside down. Better then trying to get rid of a truck that no one wants.

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## Its Catchy (Apr 10, 2014)

WoundedMinnow said:


> He owes 12k. New to him motor is 5k. Trade in value ~15k. Put new motor in truck and trade it off on new one. He'll be 2k upside down. Better then trying to get rid of a truck that no one wants.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk


If he owes 12K and he has to put in 5K for a new engine he has 17K into it.

I have my doubts about getting 15K trade in on a truck with 170K and a used engine. I am not in the used car sales business but know way in h. e. double ll hockey sticks I would I pay 15K for a truck with 170,000 miles on it. Then the dealer buying it has to mark it up to make a profit.

No way no how. Used engine or not.

The Transmission has 170K miles, rear end, A/C etc. You are just asking for never ending problems.

I would cut my losses. Use the 5K more wisely and end up with a much new model truck, with much less miles.

One mans opinion.


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## bcoastal (Aug 8, 2012)

That truck is only 4 years old. Ide post it for sale and see if you get any bites.


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## Sharpest (Mar 31, 2014)

Tell the bank to come get it as-is and walk away!

Glad I went with a 5.0L...


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## MarkU (Jun 3, 2013)

5K is a lot of strippers and blow.


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## ibtbone (Oct 7, 2013)

MarkU said:


> 5K is a lot of strippers and blow.


lol. Depends on quality and or zip code.

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## goodwood (Mar 30, 2009)

thinshavings said:


> Doesn't Ford spec a syn. oil for these engines?


No. They were speced at 5w20 and changed 5w30. Plenty of 200k mile plus engines on regular oil. Fords like their maintenance.


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## Boat 2 (Sep 22, 2016)

TexasWineGuy said:


> You had the 3.5 EB Turbo? If so, the above does not compute.
> 
> The power curve that engine is fantastic.
> 
> TWG


Wheather that computes or not that is exactly what it would do. Iâ€™m sorry yes it was a 3.5 EB Turbo. At the steepest part of the road when you gave it gas the motor would power down.


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## barronj (Sep 30, 2013)

Boat 2 said:


> I bought a 2015 F 150 with the 6 cylinder 4WD. I hated that motor. Plenty of power to pull a 22' classic Mako but going up some steep roads at our place in Junction the motor would bog down when you gave it gas . Some of these roads you didn't need your engine to wait and decide when it wanted to go. Sold it a year later .


I believe you started a thread on this, the problem was your traction control. You were spinning your tires in the dirt/mud/rocks and you didn't have traction control "off". Your truck doesn't know that you are on a surface other than pavement so it cuts power so you don't get yourself in trouble. Would do the same on wet pavement if your tires slipped under acceleration.

If it wasn't the traction control issue, then it was water in your intercooler and the steepest part of the road just made it that much easier to travel up your charge pipe and into your intake. Boost hurts you there as well, if your truck was suffering from condensation building up inside the CAC/intercooler.


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## TheGoose (Jan 22, 2006)

Fishin' Soldier said:


> He stated timing chain is fouled, cams and rollers are shot and some minor sludge buildup is causing the internal problems. I did lose oil pressure twice while driving it in this condition to the dealer. Said about 3k to fix, and hope for the best, or 5k for used motor that should last for another 100K+ miles. Motor is warrantied for 6 months and proof of mileage is accurate. I will request longer warranty. In six months I should have put about 20k miles on it and hopefully by then, worked out any kinks. Heading over to his shop this afternoon to discuss more.


Just curious how'd everything turn out? Hated to hear about such an expensive repair on a fairly new truck.


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## Mystic34 (Nov 24, 2008)

I'm now in same boat with a 2012 EcoBoost. No issues up until check engine light came on with a little sputter and lose of power. 2 weeks ago it went full shaking and ticking wouldn't get over 25mph. Took to shop they changed cam shaft position sensors and oil now it's worse. Looks like will need new motor. 


Is there no trade in value at all in this situation?


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## gotmuddy (Dec 19, 2013)

Mystic34 said:


> I'm now in same boat with a 2012 EcoBoost. No issues up until check engine light came on with a little sputter and lose of power. 2 weeks ago it went full shaking and ticking wouldn't get over 25mph. Took to shop they changed cam shaft position sensors and oil now it's worse. Looks like will need new motor.
> 
> Is there no trade in value at all in this situation?


its too late now, but had you checked the codes when the issue started you likely would have been fine with timing chains.

Trade in value will likely be terrible since it needs an engine


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## Mystic34 (Nov 24, 2008)

I checked the codes when light came on. Crankshaft position sensor. I had those changed. Then light came on again camshaft position sensor. Decided not to bad right now would change before vacation since I needed vehicle. It all went to **** day before vacation.


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## gotmuddy (Dec 19, 2013)

Mystic34 said:


> I checked the codes when light came on. Crankshaft position sensor. I had those changed. Then light came on again camshaft position sensor. Decided not to bad right now would change before vacation since I needed vehicle. *It all went to **** day before vacation.*


Sounds like you have the same luck I do.


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## MTSkibum (Mar 12, 2014)

I am shopping for a truck and trying to decide between the f150 3.5 ecoboost or the tundra 5.7 liter. 



I currently have an 11 year old vehicle, longevity matters. I also have a lead foot and acceleration matters. 



This thread has me worried about the ecoboost.


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## Fishin' Soldier (Dec 25, 2007)

TheGoose said:


> Just curious how'd everything turn out? Hated to hear about such an expensive repair on a fairly new truck.





Mystic34 said:


> I'm now in same boat with a 2012 EcoBoost. No issues up until check engine light came on with a little sputter and lose of power. 2 weeks ago it went full shaking and ticking wouldn't get over 25mph. Took to shop they changed cam shaft position sensors and oil now it's worse. Looks like will need new motor.
> 
> Is there no trade in value at all in this situation?


Ford says it costs ~12k to change the motor out. They took that off the ~15k they said he could get for trade with no motor problems. I had a local mechanic who happens to be my brothers FIL, to change it out. He found me a motor with about 30k on it and 6 month warranty. He had to argue for the turbos to come with it but got them at same price. Guy tried to not sell the turbos with motor. He did get behind a bit and took longer than he said but I'm picking up the truck today.


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## Mystic34 (Nov 24, 2008)

MTSkibum said:


> I am shopping for a truck and trying to decide between the f150 3.5 ecoboost or the tundra 5.7 liter.
> 
> I currently have an 11 year old vehicle, longevity matters. I also have a lead foot and acceleration matters.
> 
> This thread has me worried about the ecoboost.


I had really liked the EcoBoost, but after this I will not be buying another one.


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## barronj (Sep 30, 2013)

How many ecoboost trucks have been sold since 2011 when they came out with the motor?
Ford says 200,000 the first year, let's chop that # down and say that in the last 8 years, 1,000,000 F150's with ecoboost have been put on the road. How many are still on the road? Enough that they're still putting it in trucks, like the vaunted SVT Raptor.

They eat spark plugs, no doubt about it. I just changed mine. I thought I had water in the intercooler again (Wagner CAC, race upgrade) b/c of how it was driving on the highway for a New Year's trip. I dropped the intercooler and it was dry .I have the hole drilled but these were the same symptoms when it had water in it last time, before I drilled the hole.
I changed the plugs, and the gap in the old ones had grown to as much as .0043, they started out .0030. Boost was blowing out the spark b/c the gap was too great. You're supposed to change the plugs more frequently, I'd just lost sight of when I'd done it last.

When I replace my current truck (2013), which I *love*, it has 158K on it and I don't want to drive it off a mileage cliff, it will be with another F150 with the EB motor. I bought it with 44K on it, and outside of a few items that everyone has to replace (shifter, rear sliding window switch, battery), it's been a good truck.


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## gotmuddy (Dec 19, 2013)

Fishin' Soldier said:


> Ford says it costs ~12k to change the motor out. They took that off the ~15k they said he could get for trade with no motor problems. I had a local mechanic who happens to be my brothers FIL, to change it out. He found me a motor with about 30k on it and 6 month warranty. He had to argue for the turbos to come with it but got them at same price. Guy tried to not sell the turbos with motor. He did get behind a bit and took longer than he said but I'm picking up the truck today.


That ford dealer was just trying to rip you off(*gasp*). Even with turbos you should be well under that.


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## gotmuddy (Dec 19, 2013)

MTSkibum said:


> I am shopping for a truck and trying to decide between the f150 3.5 ecoboost or the tundra 5.7 liter.
> 
> I currently have an 11 year old vehicle, longevity matters. I also have a lead foot and acceleration matters.
> 
> This thread has me worried about the ecoboost.


I wouldnt be worried, but if I was buying a truck it would be a toyota.


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## Tail Chaser (May 24, 2004)

gotmuddy said:


> I wouldnt be worried, but if I was buying a truck it would be a toyota.


x2


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## C.Hern5972 (Jul 17, 2009)

MTSkibum said:


> I am shopping for a truck and trying to decide between the f150 3.5 ecoboost or the tundra 5.7 liter.
> 
> I currently have an 11 year old vehicle, longevity matters. I also have a lead foot and acceleration matters.
> 
> This thread has me worried about the ecoboost.


Tundra 5.7


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## gigem87 (May 19, 2006)

If your priorities have anything to do with reliability and longevity, there is only one answer....

Tundra


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## gotmuddy (Dec 19, 2013)

Toyota reliability has been on a downhill slide since they started building them in the US. that said they are still miles ahead of the US automakers.


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## SSST (Jun 9, 2011)

I almost drank the Tundra coolaid until I drove one, no thanks. I'm sure they are reliable, but so are all the V8's these days.


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## MarkU (Jun 3, 2013)

SSST said:


> I almost drank the Tundra coolaid until I drove one, no thanks. I'm sure they are reliable, but so are all the V8's these days.


I had a new Tundra (2016) for about 1 1/2 years. Truck ran great. But, it was the worst riding new truck, I've ever owned. It sucked on road trips. Beat me to death. No lift kit, no after market parts, just a rough riding truck.

My '18 F250 is so much smoother, and comfortable. It's like night and day.:cheers:


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## SSST (Jun 9, 2011)

MarkU said:


> I had a new Tundra (2016) for about 1 1/2 years. Truck ran great. But, it was the worst riding new truck, I've ever owned. It sucked on road trips. Beat me to death. No lift kit, no after market parts, just a rough riding truck.
> 
> My '18 F250 is so much smoother, and comfortable. It's like night and day.:cheers:


Exactly why I passed on one.


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