# Look what daddy just ordered!



## Courtney Vaughan (Apr 11, 2007)

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=49401

with a 4400 max amps lipo, a boatload of parts & tires, and a Novak GTB 5.5R w/sintered rotor!!!!

who wants some!?!?!?


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## cjtamu (Sep 22, 2004)

Looks good CV. But may I suggest this?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBSU8&P=7
And this?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJZ43&P=7
Be a whole lot easier to keep it on the track that way, LOL. Hoping to have the B44 ready to roll for HARC Round 1. Waiting for tires and wheels to get here.


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## Courtney Vaughan (Apr 11, 2007)

little too slow for my taste! Actually, I think I'm gonna put my 6.5 in it and sell the 5.5R and just turn it down on my radio......BTW, I just got the new DX3R radio too! My M11 is for sale with spektrum pro module and pro reciver if you know anyone that wants one.

are the associated wheels the roll pin type or are are they the Hex type? if they're the Hex, I've got plenty of wheels and tires I can let you use.


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## cjtamu (Sep 22, 2004)

Hex on front, uses the B4 wheels on the back. Rears aren't an issue, but the fronts were a PITA to find, found a pair on eBay along w/some front a-arms. They're changing the design on the front arms and the chassis plate, so nobody has those or shock towers. Got enough stuff to run, if I break something I don't have I'll just run the truck.


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## Courtney Vaughan (Apr 11, 2007)

like I said, I got plent of Hex wheels you can use if you need.


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## cjtamu (Sep 22, 2004)

Cool. Might bum a pair if the tires I ordered don't work/don't get here in time. Holeshots for Mike's are already mounted, just need Southside tires.


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## Earl_Sparky (Jan 12, 2008)

Chris.. I have you covered... I bought 5 sets of front arms. That and front shock shafts are really the only things that I have broke. O and a few tie rod ends.


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## cjtamu (Sep 22, 2004)

cool. Shock shafts are on the way. They're supposed to be taking a look at that too. Did you mod your hinge pins and install the set screw for the front arms? The new design is going to capture the hinge pin like the rears do.


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## Earl_Sparky (Jan 12, 2008)

No, I hadn't done that. Sounds like a good idea, I will try it. Those are the only two complaints I have about the B44. It's a great car. I look foward to racing you and running over the tamiyas on the track.


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## Courtney Vaughan (Apr 11, 2007)

Earl_Sparky said:


> I look foward to racing you and running over the tamiyas on the track.


somehow I think I'll probably be the only one on the track with a Tamiya......most people would laugh if you told them you were racing Tamiya offroad RC!


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## Earl_Sparky (Jan 12, 2008)

Actually, it looks like a very good car. I'm just a little intimidated with all the aluminum. You might be running over me.


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## cjtamu (Sep 22, 2004)

Courtney Vaughan said:


> somehow I think I'll probably be the only one on the track with a Tamiya......most people would laugh if you told them you were racing Tamiya offroad RC!


Yep, I hope it was a boatload of parts you ordered. Besides, if Earl and I hit you enough you'll have 2 Tamiyas! Oh wait, that was Jeff and his K car. I think he broke 3 chassis.

Earl, the hingepin mod is easy. As soon as I put the car together I didn't like that and I went looking for a fix. It's what the team drivers are doing. You need a couple of small 4-40 set screws (1/4" or so). Thread them into the back of the a-arm until they're flush, then reinsert the hingepin. Mark and cut hingepin off with a Dremel, put it back in. New arms should be out next month. I haven't had mine on the track yet so can't say about the ballcups, but I've heard of it. Did you cut yours? I took about 2mm off the ones for front and rear camber links and 3mm off the ones for the steering links before I built it b/c the turnbuckle was going to go in too far. If that doesn't work then I'll either run the B4 ones or the Losi grey.

Edit: Coach says the gen 2 rear upper top plate with revised mounting tab is shipping this week.

Sorry for the threadjack CV, LOL.


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## Earl_Sparky (Jan 12, 2008)

I went to the AE site and saw what you were talking about. I'm going to fix it. I have been ignoring the front hingepins. The ballcups are a little long, but I just screwed them in. You should also use internal shock limiters in the back shocks. If you don’t the back dog bone will slip out sometimes. Keeping the right rear end wheel camber is also critical in keeping the rear dog bones in. Thanks for the info Chris.


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## cjtamu (Sep 22, 2004)

Got my B44 tires, some of the rest of the stuff is at my office waiting for me to pick it up. Should have the other packages in the next day or two. New TZ is in my GT2 and ready to break in. Finally feeling a little better, see y'all next Sat.


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## Courtney Vaughan (Apr 11, 2007)

Got my Tamiya in and put my GTB/6.5R in it, rebuilt the rear diff, and I ran it around in my street and dang that thing is fast! The diff came loose, and I'm not that good with electric diffs......can anyone shed some light on how tight the rear diff should be? Should I use locktite?


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## cjtamu (Sep 22, 2004)

Shouldn't need Loctite. General rule for 4wd diffs is to put something (hex wrench, etc.) in the slots on the outdrives. Tighten the diff bolt a little then try to turn the diff gear while holding thte outdrives. Keep tightening until you can't turn the diff gear. No reason for it to work loose in a hurry unless the nut's stripped. If the car was used you might replace the nut. Also, be sure the diffs are installed in the right direction.

Glued B44 tires last night, it's ready to roll. The GT2 is less so. I bent something in the rear end I think when the throttle hung and I had that nice WOT tumble over the triple at Mike's. When you compress the rear end the shocks make a racket I've never heard before, LOL.


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## Courtney Vaughan (Apr 11, 2007)

I held both sides and tightened until it felt firm, but slipped.......so what you're saying is I should not be able to turn it by hand? Same for the front?

I've got an assortment of 1/10 shocks you can try if you need some.


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## Earl_Sparky (Jan 12, 2008)

I was out at southside last Sunday. Be prepared for some big jumps!


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## cjtamu (Sep 22, 2004)

Courtney Vaughan said:


> I held both sides and tightened until it felt firm, but slipped.......so what you're saying is I should not be able to turn it by hand? Same for the front?
> 
> I've got an assortment of 1/10 shocks you can try if you need some.


Correct. You might be able to turn it if you go all gorilla on it, but it should be at least VERY hard to turn the gear. Shocks on The Deuce are fine, I checked them when I rebuilt them. I've bent a hingepin or screw somewhere, it looks like it's cocking the shock slightly and making the spring slip slightly in the lower retainer. Then the spring rubs hard on the shock body and makes an awful racket. Try to figure it out tonight. Check your PM's. If that GTB is in good shape I'll probably take it off your hands.


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## cjtamu (Sep 22, 2004)

Interesting. The noise is actually coming from either the right rear hub or CVD. Take it apart tonight or tomorrow. It's not slowing that TZ down any that's for sure.


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