# 8wt Questions - First Build



## outlook8 (Jun 7, 2007)

I received a 7/9wt fly reel for xmas this year, and after looking at all of the rods and the ridiculous prices I decided I would go ahead and try my hand at building one. I have some buddies who have built a few casting rods so they should be able to help me with the actual build, my questions are about the components. I will be using this setup for fishing the saltwater flats for reds and trout. I just picked up a 4-piece 9' 7/8wt rod, and now need to order the components. What would you recommend as far as guides and sizes? I will probably use (1) stripper guide, then snake guides for the rest, then the tip--I'm just unsure on what sizes I need to order. Also, do I need to wrap the area where the pieces fit together for extra strength (ferrule?)? What about a fighting butt--likes, dislikes? Thanks for any advice, looking forward to starting my first build even if I have gotten in a little over my head. Also, if there's anything I'm leaving out, feel free to let me know!

Chris


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## Raymond Adams (Apr 17, 2008)

Why snake guides? Tradition? Single foot wire or ceramics will use less wraps. Less wraps = less work & less epoxy weight.
Using snakes I would try a #12 & #8 double foot then 7 or 8 #3's out to the tip-top.
Using ceramics I would try #12, #8, then #6's out to the tip-top.
Most blank MFGr's say that the newer ferrules do not require reinforcing wraps but it's cheap insurance & looks good too.
Can't go wrong with a removable fighting butt than not have the option if you need it.

Check out my RodBuilder's Library website for a LOT of helpful info. like spacing & finishing tips.
www.rodbuildingtutorials.com


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## outlook8 (Jun 7, 2007)

Thanks for the response!

As far as the snake guides go, I have a 4/5wt fly rod that uses the snake guides and I have always liked the way they looked. Also, they seem tougher to me--I have a knack for bending the single footed eyes...

Can you get a removable cork fighting butt that just slips over the back end of the reel seat, or do I need to buy a specific one?

Again, thanks for the help. I will be scouring your website for any and all information!


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## Sidney (Oct 23, 2005)

REC components are great. Recoil guides as well a snake guides. Pricey, but won't corrode in the salt, ever!


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## outlook8 (Jun 7, 2007)

I've heard mixed opinions of the recoil guides. Do they work well on a fly rod? What are they made of? What material would you suggest for snakes? Thanks for the help!


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## Raymond Adams (Apr 17, 2008)

They work as well or better than other wire guides. They are lighter than others because they are a titanium alloy. They "sing" or make noise that some guys can't stand while others are not bothered by it.


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## outlook8 (Jun 7, 2007)

Yeah, that's what I have been reading. I think I'm just going to go with regular snakes since that is what I have stuck in my head. What's the best, lightest material for salt use? Also, is a full-wells grip the way to go for this size rod?


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## Raymond Adams (Apr 17, 2008)

REC makes snake guides in titanium also (i think). no corrosion probs with titanium.

The grip shape is what you like best. Size rod shouldn't change that to much at all but only you will know that.


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## Chunkn' Charlie (Dec 30, 2004)

http://www.rainshadowfishing.com/
Batson Enterprises has a recipe page for all different rods. That's where I got my recipe for the 7wts that I have been building.

If you have any questions, feel free to give me a call


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## Goags (May 28, 2004)

chunkn' charlie said:


> http://www.rainshadowfishing.com/
> Batson Enterprises has a recipe page for all different rods. That's where I got my recipe for the 7wts that I have been building.
> 
> If you have any questions, feel free to give me a call


Charlie, I didn't know Batson had that page! I've never done a fly, but if/when I do, that's gonna be handy. Thanks for the link.
Jerry


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## ellisredfish (Jul 5, 2005)

Here are a couple of pictures of my latest build. One thing that you do not mention is the type of reel seat that you are going to use. Some come with a recessed hood that will require a cork ring reamed out to fit over the end of the recessed hood. Some do not require that, they just butt up against the grip. I like a small butt (not removable) on my salt water rods. I prefer the single foot wire guides but I have all types on my collection of rods. I use a size 16 stripper but a high frame 12 will work just as well. Be sure that the running guides will be large enough to pass the knot on the end of your fly line. Go with the guides that you like, it is your rod. If you have any questions, PM me. I will be more than glad-if that is possible (lol)-to help you.


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## ellisredfish (Jul 5, 2005)

Here is the grip.


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## twitch-twitch-reel (May 21, 2006)

I have built a 9 wt fly. go cheep. save your money for what matters, Line. Guide are all about the same as far as performance goes. Unless you plan on throwing small flys, get a fast action rod and go heavy on your line. get a nice reel seat but, don't go all out on the cork. 

Make sure you spin and mark the pieces sepretly. but, expensive guides are over rated. spend it in the bland and in the line. that is the pulse of a fly rod. all the rest is chicken with the gravy. 

As for myself, I fish a CUI blank. It is as ruged as i am and as sexy as my wife. I have boated over 15 reds over 26" and 2 that were over 35". The only thing I would change is the wt# of the rod. I wish I had made it closer to an 11wt. so I could throw big flys.


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## outlook8 (Jun 7, 2007)

chunkn' charlie said:


> http://www.rainshadowfishing.com/
> Batson Enterprises has a recipe page for all different rods. That's where I got my recipe for the 7wts that I have been building.
> 
> If you have any questions, feel free to give me a call


Thanks for the link, lots of good info there.

How do you like the 7wt as opposed to an 8wt for throwing larger clousers?


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## outlook8 (Jun 7, 2007)

ellisredfish said:


> Here are a couple of pictures of my latest build. One thing that you do not mention is the type of reel seat that you are going to use. Some come with a recessed hood that will require a cork ring reamed out to fit over the end of the recessed hood. Some do not require that, they just butt up against the grip. I like a small butt (not removable) on my salt water rods. I prefer the single foot wire guides but I have all types on my collection of rods. I use a size 16 stripper but a high frame 12 will work just as well. Be sure that the running guides will be large enough to pass the knot on the end of your fly line. Go with the guides that you like, it is your rod. If you have any questions, PM me. I will be more than glad-if that is possible (lol)-to help you.


Great looking handle, did you make it yourself? Honestly, I hadn't even gotten to the reel seat yet, haha. I figure it will be a burlwood, but other than that I have no idea. I do really like the seat you have on the one pictured, so maybe I will go that route. Any pros or cons to either choice? Do you buy the fighting butt already attached to the reel seat? Do you just run a single stripper and then use the same size for all of the running guides? How many guides for a 9' rod? How much should guides cost, I've heard differing opinions?

Thanks for all the help!


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## outlook8 (Jun 7, 2007)

twitch-twitch-reel said:


> Make sure you spin and mark the pieces sepretly. but, expensive guides are over rated. spend it in the bland and in the line. that is the pulse of a fly rod. all the rest is chicken with the gravy.
> 
> I wish I had made it closer to an 11wt. so I could throw big flys.


So each section of the rod might have a slight curve that needs to be accounted for when positioning the guides?

11wt?! Seems kinda large, I thought those were for offshore and tarpon and stuff?


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## Sidney (Oct 23, 2005)

REC snake guides are like their spinning and casting guides, they are made of a nickel titanium alloy. They will not corrode in saltwater, which is why I prefer them to others. Yes, they look "old" but if you can get past that, then IMO they are they way to go. I have made more rods than I can count over the years, and have never had to replace a rusted- broken REC guide. I have a had a few that were needed to be replaced becaused they "broke", however the number is slight in comparion to standard style guides. I've repaired/replaced standard style guides that weren't solid Titaninum. The Ti coated ones wear and rust because they are steel under the coating. Again this is just an opinion on options.


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## outlook8 (Jun 7, 2007)

What do you mean by an 'old' look? They're just not shiney?


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## Sidney (Oct 23, 2005)

Wire style like rods of the old days, when they were all metal no inserts. Basically just a metal ring with metal guide feet. Perhaps I should of thought of my use of words better. I mean just not new looking. My apologies.


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## Sidney (Oct 23, 2005)

Sort of like these is what I mean by "old" looking


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## Sidney (Oct 23, 2005)

This looks "new"


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## Sidney (Oct 23, 2005)

This looks "old" but is infact brand new.


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## outlook8 (Jun 7, 2007)

Ok, I got you. Thanks for the clarification. I like that last 'double loop' wire guide you posted. I was thinking about using one of those for my stripper and then go to snakes for the runners...


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## Sidney (Oct 23, 2005)

Cool, that's what I have on my 7 & 8 wt. rods.


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## Chunkn' Charlie (Dec 30, 2004)

outlook8 said:


> Thanks for the link, lots of good info there.
> 
> How do you like the 7wt as opposed to an 8wt for throwing larger clousers?


Throw a 7w. w/ 8wt line. I fairly new to fly fishing. An experienced friend suggested this to me. It is easier for me to load and double haul the line because I can feel it and don't have to look over my shoulder to see if it is loaded up.

I throw big clousers (don't know exactly what size because they were given to me) but i figure if it is line line we are loading up and not the lure.


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## Sidney (Oct 23, 2005)

This is a book that for the price is a great guide. It has basic Fly Rod building technics and tips. It's a simple step by step of building. Has guide charts and clear instructions of what you need. It's somewhat dated, but is a good starting point. If you have friends that have built rods it may not be needed, but I used it to get started about 200 Fly Rod's ago. Just keep in mind, as with anything in the fishing related products(components) you get what you pay for. Goodluck with the build. If you don't mind me asking what blank are you using? Their website if they have one, might have the proper guide spacing charts online for their blank.

*Start to Finish Fly Rod Building*


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## twitch-twitch-reel (May 21, 2006)

outlook8 said:


> So each section of the rod might have a slight curve that needs to be accounted for when positioning the guides?
> 
> 11wt?! Seems kinda large, I thought those were for offshore and tarpon
> and stuff?


Yes, it is important that you line the spine up on each piece. If you don't, you will run into casting issues & twisting issues.


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## twitch-twitch-reel (May 21, 2006)

*here is a pic*

here is a shot of some red I caught with it.


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## outlook8 (Jun 7, 2007)

Nice looking reds, that middle one is a fatty!

What reel seat is that?

I have a cabelas gift card from xmas and noticed they sell rod building components. Anyone have any experience with them?


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