# Glossary of Photography Terms



## Saltwater Servitude (Mar 18, 2006)

Since I was bored for a few minutes today, I thought I'd put together a glossary of basic, intermediate, and some advanced photography terminology.

All of these are my definitions or interpretations of definitions from wikipedia and a few other sites. 

If there are any terms you'd like to see added to this feel free to add 'em in. I included everything I could think of that someone new to photography might not know.


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## Saltwater Servitude (Mar 18, 2006)

*The actual glossary, 10 pages, 11 font size.*

*Ambient Light: *Natural light/any light source that isn't flashgun related.

*Ansel Adams:* A pretty well known feller who took pictures. For landscape photographers there are two time periods Before Adams, and After Adams. You may now release the hounds on me.

Take this for what its worth&#8230; In the period before Ansel, landscape photographers often manipulated their images to look like stylized paintings of their subject. Ansel was the most prominent person who produced images that were what we would see standing there in front of the landscape as well. Adams is often brought up in heated discussions about manipulation of images in the modern context as he too manipulated his images to get the final result he wanted. Adams was very concerned with losing his eyesight and gave his eye doctor hundreds of finalized photographs which were exhibited at the McNay Gallery in San Antonio back in 1991 or 1992. I will say that some of his best work I had not seen until that exhibition. 

This is the only historic figure I'm putting in this list. Go Google to find more.

*Aperture : *This is the opening in a lens that determines how much light will hit the film or sensor in a digital camera. This is shown by a number preceded by "f" and is referred to as the "f stop". 

Smaller f numbers allow MORE light to hit the sensor. An f stop of 22 will allow far less light to hit the sensor than an f4 setting. An aperture of 4 is considered "faster" than an aperture of 6.3. Aperture will affect what Exposure you will need to achieve an acceptable image. Try not to get hung up on the number of the f stop as being a larger number. It's a dividing factor, not an increasing integer.

 Aperture also dictates Depth of Field (DOF). 

F stops are specific numbers which correspond to a decrease of 50% of the light of the previous setting. Each of these setting is considered one "stop". They are: 1, 1.4, 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22, 32, 45, 64, etc. Each of these f stops have ½ of the light of the previous setting. As a result many cameras have one third stops (1/3 EV) and/or one half stops (1/2 EV). 

*Autofocus (AF): *The camera focuses for you. The photographer must take care that the AF is indeed focusing on the right object they want to photograph.

*Banding: *See posterization.

*Barrel Distortion*: An unfortunate problem in some zoom lenses that causes the image to look like it is bulging at the sides of the image while the center is correctly proportioned. Take shot of a picture frame and then try to draw a straight line down each side in a photo editing software. If the frame is bulging beyond the line, you've got barrel distortion. Fisheye lenses are designed to do this on purpose.

The opposite of barrel distortion is pincushioning.

*Bigma: *The Sigma 50-500mm telephoto zoom lens. It is that popular that it gets a readily recognizable nickname. What makes this lens unique is that it is a 10x zoom that has the ability to create great sharp images throughout its focal range. That is truly something in and of itself.

*Birds in Flight (BIF): *I wouldn't put this on here if it didn't take me a minute to figure out the abbreviation while reading another forum. 

*Blown out highlights:* When the highlights of an image have lost all detail and gone to pure white because of over exposure. Think of a wedding dress in bright noon sunlight shot with a flash. 

*Bokeh:* A term that has no meaning. Really, it doesn't translate from Japanese. What it refers to is conditions of out of focus elements with respect to DOF. You have to see it to understand it.

*Bridge Camera:* A type of point and shoot camera with many DSLR-like options such as ISO sensitivity control, face recognition, large focal ranges, and zoom options. Bridge cameras cannot change lenses as DSLR's although the performance of good bridges are very close, if not better, than some DSLR's.

*Charged-Coupled Device (CCD): *A type of camera sensor. More expensive to build than a CMOS, but have less noise issues stemming from how the sensor reads photosites as a group. Fujifilm builds a weird version of a CCD that uses hexagonal photosites with two differing types of sites to increase its dynamic range and improve its color. It makes for a slow camera, but dang I wish Canon or Nikon would adopt the CCD format for a high end model.

*Chiaroscuro: *An Italian term meaning the interplay of light and shadow. 

*Chromatic Aberation (CA): *Chromatic aberration happens to just about every lens if you push it far enough. CA is the weird color "fringes" you will see in some images where there are great amounts of contrast or in wide angle shots. CA is caused by the different wavelengths of light not hitting the same focal plane on the film or sensor. You'll often see green/yellow (canon primes) and purple/red (nikkor primes) CA, but just about every combination of colors is evident depending on the focal length and manufacturer.

 If you have a silhouetted object in front of a white background you may be able to see CA. Some lenses and P&S are notorious for it while others not so much. CA can be compensated for, to a degree, by desaturating in photo editing software.

*Canon AE-1:* I'm putting this on here for historic reasons only. This is the SLR film camera that really put Canon in a position to be where it is today. 

*Complimentary Metal-Oxide Semiconductor (CMOS): * A type of digital camera sensor. While cheaper to produce, they are more susceptible to noise issues than CCD sensors in theory. Someone tell me if the CMOS Canon 5D has noise issues, because it's one of the best out there at low light performance. Basic difference is that a CMOS reads the photosites and amps the signals individually instead of how the CCD does it.

*Cool/Cold Image:* This has nothing to do with how acceptable an image might be to a person, but to the color tones within the image. Cooler images have more blue, purple, or green hues than a warm image.

*Depth of Field (DOF): *DOF is a measure of how much of an image is in focus behind and in front of the main focus point. A larger aperture of say f2 has a small depth of field because the back and foreground will be out of focus with respect to the main focal point. You can adjust your depth of field by changing your aperture, exposure, and if necessary ISO.

Lens focal length does play into depth of field also. A 50mm lens at f6.3 has a greater depth of field (more stuff in focus) than an 85mm at the same f stop.

*Digital Zoom:* A function found in P&S cameras that is the same thing as zooming in via Photoshop after the photo is taken. When buying, look only at the Optical Zoom ability of the camera, not the digital zoom. 

*Dragging the Shutter: *Dragging the shutter is a technique that means you use a slower exposure to increase the amount of ambient light you allow to reach the sensor. It is used in low light situations to utilize ambient light rather than compensate with a flash. Dragging the shutter can give you a "warmer" image than using a bare flash will.

*Dynamic Range (DR): *There are real nice scientific definitions of dynamic range in terms of physics on a bunch of websites. For all intents and purposes, dynamic range is the ability of a camera to capture X number of stops of light and shadow while preserving detail within each. The most notable wide DR cameras are the 1Ds Mark II by Canon and the S3 and S5 from Fujifilm. Achieving greater DR is done via the HDR (high dynamic range) technique.

An example of an exceptionally challenging DR photograph would be a very dark skinned bride in a white wedding dress in full noon day sun. Do you expose for the skin and blow out the dress or expose for the dress and lose the details in her face? 

*Elements: *The individual shaped pieces of glass within a lens assembly. Elements are arranged in groups within a lens assembly. The front piece of glass is called the front element while the piece closest to the camera is the rear element. These are the most often damaged elements. Photographers will use screw on filters to protect the front element from dust, scratches, impacts, airborne pollutants (wind blown salt or sand) and clumsiness.

*Exposure: * This is not what harlot Paris Hilton gets in the tabloids when she does something stupid every other week. Exposure refers to how much light hits the sensor based on aperture (f stop again) and shutter speed. Under exposing gives you a dark image while over exposing gives you blown highlights.

Exposure is also affected the sensitivity of the film or sensor (ISO).

*F-mount:* The Nikon based lens mounting system for DSLR's.

*Film:* It still has its place in the world today. 

*Filters:* Filters are either snap or screw on additions to your lens that perform a variety of tasks. The lens's front element width will dictate what size (in mm) of filters you will need for your particular lens. Lens manufacturers like to irritate consumers by producing lenses that require oddball sized filters that cost more than we'd pay for a used car.

Some lenses also have drop in filters that fit behind the rear element such as the Sigma 8mm fisheye.

Filters are also used on flashes as well. The most popular gel filter for portrait and glamour photography is the Roscolux #2 also known as the ***tard amber. No kidding, that's what it is called, mostly because it wears out so quickly but it does an incredibly job of warming light.

*Fixed Focal Length:* A lens with a non-variable focal length. Example, Canon 400mm f4. Fixed focal length lenses are often referred to as "primes" and exist in every lens type from super wide angle to ultra telephoto. In most instances prime lenses tend to be a little sharper than zoom lenses, but it ain't always the case.

*Flaring: *Also referred to as lens flaring. Flaring occurs when light that isn't part of the image hits the lens and produces flares of light in the image. This can occur in sunlight or inside as well. Using a lens hood helps in most situations where you might have a direct light source entering the lens.

*Focal Length: *The distance in millimeters from the optical center of a lens to the sensor when the subject is in focus. Most focal lengths are given in relation to 35mm format since this is so popular. Most DSLR's have a crop factor that changes the effective focal length of a lens thereby "stretching" the lens. 

A larger focal length (500mm) has a narrower field of view, but brings in distant objects closer. Shorter focal lengths have wider fields of view. 

In a 35mm format a 50mm lens is considered the human eye equivalent since that lens "sees" as we do, or at least like we do with our glasses and contacts in. 

Now if you have a DSLR with a crop factor of 1.5x (very common), the human eye equivalent would be a lens with the focal length of 35mm since 35 multiplied by the crop factor equals about 50mm. 

*Four-thirds Mount:* The mounting system of lenses for Olympus DSLR's.

*Ghosting:* A condition in which part of the image will reflect itself within the elements to produce a secondary "ghostlike" image on top of the original image. The ghost is often a mirror image of a part of the image. A lens hood can help to an extent. Some poor quality telephotos will produce ghosts no matter what you do.

*Glass: *When photographers speak of glass, they are speaking of the entire lens assembly, not of the individual lenses within the assembly. The individual pieces of glass within a lens are referred to as elements. 

*Golden Hour: *This hour before sunset and the hour after sunrise that American photographers find the most pleasing due to its soft, warm light. Great for shooting models and landscapes alike.

*High Dynamic Range (HDR) Photography: * A technique used to create images in areas of very high contrast where a single image exposed for the shadows or highlights will not capture the full light range of the subject. 

*Image Stabilization, Vibration Reduction, Optical Stabilization:* All three of these terms refer to the mechanical and electronic stabilizers built into some types of lenses. While Nikon first developed vibration reduction, Canon was the first to incorporate it into their lens lineup. Some VR and IS lenses detect only horizontal movements while other newer generation lenses detect movement in all X, Y and Z axis. 

Using one of these lenses usually means you can handhold a lens at a longer shutter speed without the need for a monopod or tripod. What is interesting, most Nikon shooters turn off the VR function of their lenses when shooting on a tripod or monopod to preserve the IQ.

*Image Quality (IQ): * This is a subjective and objective (a photo magazine editor has developed objective criteria) measure of how good an image" looks" to the individual viewing the image. This usually takes into account color saturation or balance, sharpness, DR, moiré, light balance, and a few dozen other psychological expectations of the viewer.

One person's great IQ is another person's example of bad photography. Interestingly, a portrait in some parts of Asia would look like great IQ to the Asian photographer, but blown out by American standards.

*ISO: *International Organization of Standardization's criteria of digital sensor sensitivity to light. ISO replaces the ASA film speed. Higher ISO's give you the ability to shoot in lower light conditions, but at the cost of increasing your signal to noise ratio. Noise is the equivalent of grain in high ASA film sensitivities. Noise bad, clean signal good so say Conan the Photographer, cousin of the Barbarian.

*Jaggies: * I love this word. Jaggies are when a naturally straight line appears to "stair step" rather than progress as a straight line. Lower megapixel counts, bad glass, certain camera bodies, and high percentage crops produce jaggies. Jaggies are overcome to a point by anti-aliasing which uses color information from both sides of the line to soften the image and reduce the apparent nature of the jaggies.

*Kit Lens:* A lens sold together with a DSLR packaged as a unit by the manufacturer. Retail outlets often create a "kit" so to speak of a lens coupled with a body but these are not kit lenses by definition.

*Lens Speed: * Lens speed refers back to aperture. It is a measure of the light gathering ability of the lens to the final aperture the lens can effectively deliver. You will often see reviews referring to fast glass and slow glass. A lens with a maximum aperture (remember maximum is a smaller number) of say f8 is pretty "slow" because you have to use much longer shutter speeds to gather enough light for a photograph. When looking at two lenses side by side, lens #1 with an f stop of 3.5 is faster than a lens of f6 for the same focal length. Smaller fstops= faster shutter speeds=faster glass.

For many zoom lenses you will have a range of f stops, but not for all zooms. The Sigma 50-500 telephoto has an f range of f4-f6.3 while the Nikkor 70-200 is f 2.8 throughout its focal range. Both are great lenses. The f4 in the case of the Sigma refers to the 50mm end of its focal range while at 500mm you'll be shooting at f6.3. The speed of a lens is something you want to consider for the type of shooting you will be doing. If you're shooting birds in flight (BIF, no seriously, it gets abbreviated all the time) you'll need faster shutter speeds so you'll need faster glass. If you're shooting sloths or teenagers asked to mow the grass you can get by with slower glass because neither move very fast so you can use shutter speeds measured with a sundial.

*Long Glass: *Telephoto lenses.

*Macro: *A term that deals with close-up photography with a magnification ratio of 1:1 to 50:1. Macro photography deals with very shallow DOF and high magnification to achieve fascinating images of objects we pass by everyday.

*Megapixel:* A bunch of pixels. Seriously folks, a megapixel is a measure of pixel density within a given sensor size. A megapixel is not the same in a point and shoot is not the same as a megapixel in a DSLR, technically speaking. Pixels in P&S cameras are smaller than pixels in DSLR's, after conversion from their photosite analogs.

Generally megapixels are measures of the image size. A megapixel is 1 million pixels. Greater megapixels DO NOT MEAN BETTER IMAGES, no matter what camera marketing departments want you to believe. For most applications 5-6 megapixels is more than enough. 

Megapixels tend to be the easiest measuring device camera marketing departments can throw at you.

In the near future, the highest end DSLR's will feature sensor resolution so great that most third-party glass that is not top-end will not be usable as the sensor will out-resolve the ability of the lens.

*Mirror Lock-Up (MLU): *An ability of most DSLR's to lock up their mirrors for either sensor cleaning or for super telephoto shooting. The problem with this is that the mirror reflects the image in the lens to the viewfinder and focusing plane on SLR's so you become effectively blind to the final image in MLU shooting. Usually you've got the image finalized and composed before you use MLU so there isn't much left to chance. 

Supposedly most MLU functions come with a hypersonic sound that lets wildlife to move either a few feet closer or further from the sound so as to produce a slightly out of focus image. 

*Mirror Slap:* The effect of when you actuate the lens and the mirror "slaps" against the camera housing to expose the lens or sensor to the image. Mirror slap really only aggravates telephoto enthusiasts as it creates vibrations that create a slightly "soft" or out of focus image in worst case scenarios. It can be overcome with meticulous technique or with mirror lock up.

*Moire: *An undesirable pattern in an image. Think of when you look through a window screen and see that odd pattern? That's moiré.

*Niche Camera: * A term that describes a few cameras out there that are designed for a limited suite of applications. The Fujifilm S3 UV/IR is a niche camera as it is designed (filtered really) to shoot in the Ultraviolet and Infrared frequencies of light. Used by forensics teams I suppose. It can also be used as a derogatory term when discussing the function suite of a particular camera.

*Nifty 50: *The 50mm f1.4 or f1.8. A very versatile lens that is low cost and usually pretty darn sharp.

*Noise: *Music the teenager next door loves to listen to at midnight. Apparently volume decreases the ability of a person to discern noise from music. 

For a better definition of noise in photography look here: http://www.dpreview.com/learn/?/key=noise

*Normal Lens: *A lens in the 35mm format that is of 50mm focal length. Use your crop factor to figure out the digital world equivalent. This is the human eye equivalent.

*Optical Zoom:* The function in P&S's that allows the camera to effectively change its focal length by a multiplication factor. A 10x optical zoom is NOT the same as digital zoom. Digital zoom is basically in camera post processing. When you go to buy a new P&S, don't listen to the salesperson, you want optical zoom, not digital.

*Photoshopping (PS-ing): *Refers to any changes done to an image regardless if it was done with Adobe Photoshop or any other photo editing software.

*Photosites: *Photosites are the physical spots on a sensor that collect image information. A photosite collects photons of light which are then translated into pixels at megapixel density. Each photosite on a sensor collects one color of light only. All of the photosites are then interpolated into a digital image. Therefore, all Bayer type sensors are interpolated images which is a pet peeve of mine. 

*Pincushion Distortion:* An artifact of the lens seen on the image. If the image looks like it is "caving in" on the edges while the center of the image is correctly proportioned, you've got pincushion distortion. The easiest way to view pincushion distortion is to photograph a picture frame and then draw a line down the edge. If the frame dips inside of the line, then you have pincushion distortion.

*Pixel: * A pixel is the conversion of the analog photosite photon capture to digital format.

*Point and Shoot (P&S): *A very popular consumer type of digital camera. Known for their small size, affordability, versatility with options, convenient Automatic functions, and colorful exteriors P&S cameras are the Polaroid's of today's world. Given the name because you "Point and Shoot" via the live preview provided by the LCD screen on the back of the camera. While some trumpet up to 12mp resolution, the smaller size of the P&S sensor can result in noisier images. P&S models with great zoom features, large focal range, and many DSLR-like options are referred to as "bridge cameras" as they bridge the gap between P&S's and DSLR's.

*Posterization:* Posterization occurs when there isn't enough color data to produce a smooth grade of color in an image. You used to see this all the time in shots with sky back in the early days of digitals. It looks like two completely different colors next to each other separated by a jagged line. You can still achieve it if you turn down the resolution of your camera to 1 or 2 megapixels. Photoshop offers this as a filter effect also I think.

*Post Processing: *Any manipulations done to an image after the camera has recorded the image. 

*Prosumer Camera:* A prosumer camera is an arbitrary label given to DSLR's that appeal to both serious amateur and hobbyist photographers as well as the photographer who makes their living in the photography business. Cost is usually a function of the difference between "true" professional cameras and prosumers.

*Rangefinder:* A type of camera that uses no mirror so that you are looking straight through the lens at the subject at all times. Rangefinders are slimmer since the lens can be built into the body of the camera and are very quiet. Rangefinders have their limitations, especially in close-up photography. Leica introduced the M8 digital rangefinder in 2006 and the users are in love with its versatility and purple colored shadows. 

*Resellerratings.com*: The first place you visit when you find an internet deal that is too good to be true on any camera or lens. There is a scam set-up out of New York that preys on unsuspecting camera purchasers that has many different names and faces. You've been warned.

*Rule of Thirds: *Divide your viewfinder or LCD screen into a 9 part pattern, or a Tic-Tac-Toe grid. This has then divided your window of composition into a 3x3 pattern. To use this pattern to your advantage look here: http://photoinf.com/Golden_Mean/Michael_Fodor/Photo_School_-_Rule_of_Thirds.htm

*Rumors: *What keep me up until 5 am waiting to see the next new camera that I can't afford regardless of how little I know about the current camera I own. For every 500 rumored new cameras, one actually is true and of every ten that are true, one is actually something ground breaking and worth staying up until 5 am for.

*Sharp: *An image with crisp lines and outlines. In portraiture, you should be able to see individual eye lashes to get the premier sharp image. It can be a subjective term also. 

*Shutter Speed: * Shutter speed is how long you allow your sensor to be exposed to light. This is determined by a mechanical shutter or curtain staying open for a specified amount of time. A shutter speed of 1/80 means that the sensor is exposed to light for 1/80th of a second. Similarly, a shutter speed of 5 means that the shutter will remain open for 5 seconds. Shutter speeds usually range from 1/10000 of a second to 30 seconds. Adding an off camera flash affects your shutter speed with its sync speed.

Certain mechanical and electronic devices can be attached to DSLR's to achieve very long shutter speeds for long exposures.

Having longer shutter speeds usually necessitates the need for tripod or monopod mounting to compensate for the photographer's natural shaking.

*Single-Lens Reflex (SLR):* A camera type that uses a mirror to project the image on a focusing screen and to the eyepiece. As the shutter is actuated, the mirror moves up allowing the light to hit the sensor or film. This is when the dreaded Mirror Slap occurs for long glass shooters.

*Stopping Down: *This is when you change your f stop (aperture) to a higher number which means you are allowing less light to hit the sensor, but are increasing your depth of field. Changing your aperture from f 2 to f 8 is stopping down 4 stops. It is very easy to get confused with how many true stops you are stopping down due to most cameras and lenses have 1/3 EV and ½ E/V settings. 

*Straight Out Of Camera (SOOC or OOC)*: A photograph printed or displayed straight out of the camera with no post processing.

*Subject Distance: * The actual distance between your camera and of the object you are photographing. 

*Super Telephoto Lens: *A lens in the 35mm format from roughly 300mm focal length to 600mm. Use your crop factor to figure out the digital equivalent. With the use of TC's you can convert a Super Telephoto to an Ultra Telephoto, but with some IQ and Autofocus speed loss.

*Super Wide Angle Lens: * A lens in the 35mm "format" that has a focal length of less than 20mm. In the digital world, that's a 35mm focal length lens. Easy to get confused.

*Teleconverters (TC): *Teleconverters are attachments to your lens that extend the reach of your lens by a multiplication factor. TC's are not able to be used on every lens or lens type. The three most common TC's are 1.4, 1.7, and 2.0 multipliers. Using a TC on a Super Telephoto can create an ultra telephoto lens on the cheap, but you get what you pay for in some cases. TC's also slow the speed of your lens. A 1.4x drops you one full stop, a 1.7x loses one and half stops, and a 2.0x drops you a full two f stops. TC's also slow or completely disable your autofocus ability. You can add TC's on top of each other (called stacking) to further increase the focal length of your lens. 

For a crazy look at the use of TC's take a look here at a Sigmonster pushed to 12,800mm. http://www.pbase.com/liquidstone/image/59586426

*Telephoto Lens: * A lens in the 35mm format that is of focal lengths from 80mm to roughly 300mm. Use your crop factor to figure out the digital equivalent.

*Third-Party Glass:* A term used to describe lenses not made by the manufacturer of your camera body, i.e. using a Sigma lens on your Minolta body. Tokina, Tamron, and Sigma are three big manufacturers of third-party glass. There is absolutely nothing wrong with third party glass and some is better than the namesake lenses. 

*Tripod:* A three legged stabilization device to mount your camera or lighting to so that you may later trip over it and break your brand new equipment. Tripods are manufactured by a consortium of wannabe ballerinas who hate photographers to make the rest of us feel clumsy by comparison. Ballerinas are evil like that.

Tripods come in three main types: 1. Too big and heavy to move, 2. Perfect for everything but too expensive for anything, and 3. Affordable but break like glass.

*Ultra Telephoto Lens:* A lens in the 35mm format that is longer than 600mm in focal length. Use your crop factor to figure out the digital equivalent. An example would be Sigma's 300-800mm f5.6 also known as the "Sigmonster" for its tremendous size. Ultra telephotos are generally incredibly expensive and rare with the sigmonster being the exception to the rule. 

*Vignetting: * This occurs in some lower end telephoto and fisheye lenses. The lens itself becomes visible as darkened areas in the corners of the final image.

*Walk-Around Lens: *A lens that is versatile with its focal range to allow for a variety of shooting situations to be addressed.

*Warm Image: *This has nothing to do with a photograph taken with an allegedly stolen camera or lens. Warm images have more orange, red, or yellow hues to them than a normal exposure. Interestingly, a lot of images from photographers in Scandinavia are normal to them, but look warm yellow to Americans. Similarly, American images look overly orange to many Asian photographers. The use of an 18% grey card fixes that easily enough.

*White Balance:* A human eye takes light entering it and adjusts it to as near as white as possible. A camera tries to do the same, but needs a little help sometimes. White balance allows the photographer to adjust the color or temperature in Kelvins that the camera records as white light. If you've ever seen two different fluorescent bulbs in the same fixture and one looked pink or green, then you've encountered differing white balance that your mind couldn't adjust to both. 

If you go an pick up a series of different blue paint cards from Lowe's or Home Depot and then shoot your custom white balance off of these cards, the camera will then add the opposite (orange) to the images taken and give you a warming filter on the cheap. Works like a charm.

*Wide Angle Lens: * In the 35mm format, that is a lens from 20mm to about 45mm. Use your crop factor to figure out the digital equivalent.

*Zoom Lens: * A lens with a variable focal length. Example, Nikkor 70-200 is zoom lens while a Canon 400mm is a fixed focal length. Zoom lenses exist in every type of lens from super wide angle (Sigma 10-20mm) to ultra telephoto (sigma 300-800mm).


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## Gator_Nutz (Sep 27, 2006)

Bored for a few minutes??? WOW. You really are a hard worker. Thanks for putting that together though. It was very helpful in teaching me a number of things I have been hearing about but didn't really know what it was.


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## richg99 (Aug 21, 2004)

Looks good. Thanks for all of the work that you did to put it together. It should be added as a "sticky" I think.

I am copying it for my personal folder. 

You might want to add an explanation of "Crop Factor" since it is referenced in a couple of listings. Rich


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## fishphoto (Mar 3, 2005)

*One more definition*

Photography: synonym for rapid depletion of savings or checking account ;-)


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## MT Stringer (May 21, 2004)

> Photography: synonym for rapid depletion of savings or checking account


Yep. Worked for me!


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## Dorado-Mahi (May 23, 2004)

Excellent work SS. Particularly enjoyed reading the Ansel Adams narrative. I wonder when someone will step up and become the next Ansel Adams of the digital era?


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## Koru (Sep 25, 2006)

Greenie coming your way for taking the time to do this for us SS. Thank you so much!

rosesm

Maybe Rusty could sticky it as it is so full of helpful information. 


DSLR?


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## richg99 (Aug 21, 2004)

Yep greenie to you for all the work... from me. Rich 

Thanks for the reminder, Karen. RG


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## Saltwater Servitude (Mar 18, 2006)

Appreciate the comments folks. Let's not sticky it quite yet, I've got a few dozen more terms I thought of last night that need to be in there. 

Crop factor definately as well as medium, large format, view camera, watt seconds, strobe, effective watt seconds, UPS, Hair light, MUA, Soft box, umbrella, reflector, beauty dish, light stand, real tripod definition, monopod, ball head, panorama, etc, etc, etc...


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## RustyBrown (May 29, 2004)

*Thanks SS*

I put you on the index this morning.


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## chicapesca (Jun 7, 2004)

Wow SS, nice job. Thank you!


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## Dances With Fish (Jul 24, 2006)

Very well composed SS....I see the terms all the time scattered around its good to have em all bundled up.......Very helpful


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## my3peas (Jan 9, 2007)

Fantastic! Several of those I had to dig through books for when I started out


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