# Ruger M77 accuracy problem



## barbless

I have a Ruger M77 in 7MM mag I bought in 1975. This rifle has lots of sentimental value as it went on many Alaska hunts with me. It never has shot very well; I'm lucky to get a 2.5" group and I reload and have tried many a different bullet and powder combination. Over 30 years ago I glass bedded the recoil lug and the rear of the action and it helped but it has a long way to go. Do you think glass bedding the barrel all the way to the fore end would help? It does have a very thin barrel which I think is part of the problem. I had the head space checked. I do not want to spend $500 for a new barrel and I would like to keep this rifle original. thanks


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## Bill Fisher

look for my posts here...... http://www.2coolfishing.net/ttmbforum/showthread.php?t=306009&highlight=ruger&page=2

i don't believe blass bedding will do anything for you


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## Wolf6151

I wouldn't glass the barrel channel but I would make sure that the barrel is free floated. With a gun that old I'd also make sure to get a really good copper solvent and clean that barrel good. I'd also check the scope mounts and scope to make sure everything is tight as well as the stock mounting screws. After all that I'd just try some different loads, bullet weight and powder combinations. Also with a cartridge that size it's easy to develop a flinch when shooting.


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## coogerpop

Send it to Hill Country Rifles for their accuracy job,1 in groups when they finish!!!
$450.00 fot their service.google them and read about their service...,


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## texastkikker

i can vouch for hill country rifles. got my dads 7mm wby mag shootin straight


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## barbless

thanks for all the great responses. Bill Fisher, looks like I'm not alone. Thanks for sending me that thread, very helpful. I think I'm gonna try the business card in the fore end trick. If one business card thickness makes contact between barrel and stock how many additional layers do you recommend I should use? I wetted the bore with Hoppes and let it set a couple hours last night and then ran patches till they came out clean. thanks again. Is this forum great or what!


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## specktout

You may want to try my recommendation of using small strips of masking tape on the fore end of the stock that I detailed in the dated post mentioned above. You can make small adjustments that way. Those M77's are beautiful guns, but tough to get 1 moa out of them.


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## Wolf6151

JMO, but I'd clean that barrel out real good with something alot stronger than Hoppes. Hoppes won't get the copper fouling out and on a gun that old it's probably got alot of it.


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## Condition One

*Accuracy problems*

Barbless, all good recommendations, so far. As far as cleaning, though, you may consider a much more rigorous (and throrough) cleaning procedure. I do this everytime I buy a used rifle or work up handloads on friends' rifles, as I never truly know how many rounds have been through it.
1. go buy some JB polish, bore guide and Barnes CR-10 or sweets copper solvent (Carter's or Bass Pro has this stuff).
2. Make sure to have the proper rod/jag/patch combo for a tight fitting patch.
3. remove the barreled action, and carefully pour 1-2 gallons of boiling water down from the breech to the muzzle. Make sure to protect the crown from being dinged in the sink. You can wrap a towel tightly around the action to prevent getting burned. The water will evaporate shortly after you stop pouring, so no worries,
4. While still hot, run your tight patch all the way to the end of the barrel but don't push it out. Saturate the patch with the polish and pull back and forth 10 times. You may have to mark the rod with a shoarpie or tape to prevent pulling it out of either end. This just makes it messy and inefficient. Then push the patch out and repeat 5-10 times. 
5. run some dry patches to remove the polish, then an oil patch.
6. Clean all of the polish that you may have gotten elswhere on the gun, install the stock and go to the range. Always shoot a couple of foulers before accuracy evaluations...
7. use the solvent to do your normal cleaning thereafter

If that doesn't help, then your problems aren't from a dirty barrel. Also, check that the magazine box isn't touching the bottom of the action. This is an overlooked but easy fix for some major accuracy problems. Good luck.


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## Bill Fisher

also the diagonal bedding screw is notorious about getting loose on M77s.... especially the magnums

had a brand new 300 w mag crack the stock because i forgot to tighten it first and retighten after the fist coupla rounds

returned it, got another, did the above, never a problem since


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## Ernest

I struggle to get a tight patch with JB's paste to reverse in the bore. So, I take a nylon brush, wrap a patch around it so most of the brissles (spelling) poke thru the patch, and then coat with JB's paste. That I can work back and forth and still get good friction in the bore. Alternatively, drop down one size in a brass brush (or find a well used one of the right caliber), and do the same trick. But, gererally, I avoid brass brushes. 

Then again, I see the benchrest boys stroking those brass brushes, so its not like its fatal or something. 

Here is another de-copper trick. Wet with Sweets 7.62, then wet again, let dwell for 15 to 20 minutes, and then use a patch soaked in hydrogen peroxide. When the HP makes contact with the Sweets, its creates this thick foam (blue foam if its coppered up) that rolls out the end of the barrel. Obviously, like any home chemistry, evaluate for yourself and use at your own risk.


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## Pocketfisherman

Just don't use bronze brushes with any of the copper solvents or the blue residue will never disappear because your brush is now dissolving. Use a bore mop or nylon brush with the copper solvents followed by clean patches.


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## coogerpop

Wolf6151 said:


> JMO, but I'd clean that barrel out real good with something alot stronger than Hoppes. Hoppes won't get the copper fouling out and on a gun that old it's probably got alot of it.


 SWEETS 7.62....but be sure and don't open it near your nose...the amonia will kick your ...senses...


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## B-Money

I'd throw another scope on there before I did all of that work. Those mags will beat up one some optics.


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## Condition One

*Good call...*



Bobby Miller said:


> I'd throw another scope on there before I did all of that work. Those mags will beat up one some optics.


Good call on the scope recommendation. If you can, use a high-quality one that you know performs well. Even new scopes can behave eradically...that's whay they come with such good warranties!


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## ReelWork

coogerpop said:


> Send it to Hill Country Rifles for their accuracy job,1 in groups when they finish!!!
> $450.00 fot their service.google them and read about their service...,


I recently had my 7 Mag (M77, circa 1985) Accurized by Hill Country along with a new recoil pad added. The gun will now fit a 3 shot grouping INSIDE A DIME AT 100 YARDS! To be exact, .359 inch... Cost for everything was just under $600 ($425 for the accurizing and another $100 for the pad + tax).

The trigger is amazing now... 3 lb pull but the smoothness is the real indiciator. Gently squeeze and smooth as glass it just releases with no drag or hanging up - did I mention smooth?


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## Shaky

Your stock to receiver mounting screws need to be torqued properly as well. I learned this one after adjusting the trigger on a model 70, after reassembly and "*******" torquing, it wouldnt hold a 5" group. Found the specs online, loosened them up and used a proper torque setting and got it back down to 1 moa or thereabouts.


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## jan1

*Ruger 7MM*

An unresolved accuracy issue thread should have an internet rumor attached to it, at some point.
During various times in Model 77 production, Ruger supposedly sub contracted barrel prodution to third party vendors. Quality control was noted to be an issue with these barrels. Accurate Reloading and 24 Hour Campfire threads speak to these issues.
Hill Country Rifles will sort this out for you in short order. On the other hand, you can tinker using all of the excellent suggestions posted here or for the amount of money you are about to spend, you can almost buy a new Ruger.


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## Cool Hand

I agree Sweets 7.62 is the best for removing copper. :brew:


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## BajaRat

Don't mean to hi-jack a thread but I have the same problem ( still do ) mine is a .257 Roberts. When I pulled the barreled action out of the stock the angled bedding screw was bent. Replaced the screw and it hasn't shot worth a darn since. It is also and older model , the model with the thumb saftey.


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## ReelWork

jan1 said:


> or for the amount of money you are about to spend, you can almost buy a new Ruger.


True but... You have to consider a $450 Ruger with a $450 accurrizing job shoots as good or better than a $2k harvester or comparable rifle (scopes not included).

Just saying...

Sure the initial cost may seem a high but the improvements are impressive, just look at the alternative as mentioned about buying a new one - still no guarantee it will shoot better.

Strongly considering my next rifle being a cheaper/less expensive Rem 700, M77 or the like. Take it to HCR and have them work their magic and slap a super nice scope and base on it. Should be less than $1500 and guaranteed it will have groupings as good as any gun costing 2-3x as much.

Look out deer... :ac550:


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## Ernest

Why not just a custom action - $750 to $850, an after market trigger, and the rockin barrel? Add the stock of your choice, and unless its a high end stock, get the chamber you want, a much better barrel and an action that will hold its value come resale for basically the same money?


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## barbless

What a great thread with lots of good information shared. I'm going to try to build up the area between the barrel and fore end with business card and work up some reloads to give it another try; hopefully next week. I hear trout calling me from way down at Baffin I need to take care of this weekend. thanks


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