# Ford 6.7L Owners



## cohibatex (Jun 11, 2015)

do yall run the synthetic oil or regular when you change your oil? the place I go to charge $160 for the synthetic and $80 for regular and they say the synthetic is specifically designed for this engine but I don't know if its really necessary.


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## Drewtk (Aug 22, 2011)

I have a 6.7L F250 and run synthetic but I also change the oil myself. It's pretty easy because you don't even have to jack up the truck. I put a Fumoto valve in place of the drain plug, so you just turn a valve and the oil comes out, rather than having to deal with a messy drain plug.


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## cohibatex (Jun 11, 2015)

Is synthetic highly recommended for these engines?


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## yakPIRATE (Jun 23, 2012)

I'm running t5. With motorcraft filter.


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## GOTTAILCORNBREAD (Jul 10, 2006)

I have 68,000 on mine and I only run Full Synthetic. Not Blends


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## redexpress (Apr 5, 2010)

It depends on what you're doing with the truck. According to the manual for my 2013 F350 diesel, if you tow or use the truck in heavy duty conditions, you should use 5w-40. If you're not towing or using the truck in heavy duty conditions, use Motorcraft 10w-30, or get a damned Subaru.
The only 5w-40 I have found is synthetic. Don't believe the half the **** you hear, find out for yourself. You going to trust your $60,000 truck to a DA? 
Shell Synthetic Rotella 5w-40.
You're 18 years old with a 6.7 diesel? Holy Jesus.


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## JamesAggie (Jun 28, 2012)

Only Amsoil synthetic. Do it myself so I know it's done right.


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## Beaux (Oct 11, 2012)

I worked for a major ford dealer for several years. We run 15W40 Motorcraft syn blend in all the diesels. They all leave the factory with Syn blend. On the 6.7l you can run different oil weights depending on how you drive. Take a look at you owners manual in the diesel supplement.


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## RB II (Feb 26, 2009)

According to my mechanic, it doesn't really matter which you run, but the important thing is to change them regularly, even the synthetic ones. He recommends the regular Motorcraft oil, not synthetic and to change it every 5000 miles. He previously was a Ford Service Manager, so I tend to take his advise. Plus he is an eat up motor head and loves to work on diesels.


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## Worm Drowner (Sep 9, 2010)

Right now, my engine is still under warranty, so I use what the dealer puts in. Once I am out of warranty, I will switch to Rotella T6 full synthetic. I have been running it for years in my other truck (7.3 L) and it's worked well for me.

Quite honestly, I do disagree with the 5k OCI. Synthetic last much longer. Use a oil analysis service such as Blackstone or even your local CAT dealer. I run the 7.3 over 20K miles between oil changes and the lab reports always cone back fine. I simply change the oil once a year because I figure I'd get some of the soot out, not because the oil was worn out or contaminated.


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## redexpress (Apr 5, 2010)

Cut and pasted from the 2013 Ford diesel supplement...

* Engine lubrication for severe service operation​* The following conditions define severe operation for which engine​ operation with SAE 5W-40 API CJ-4 is recommended. Oil and oil filter​ change intervals will be determined by the Intelligent Oil Life Monitorâ„¢​ as noted previously.​ â€¢​ frequent or extended idling (over 10 minutes per hour of normal driving)​
 â€¢​ low-speed operation/stationary use​
 â€¢​ if vehicle is operated in sustained ambient temperatures below -10Â°F​
(-23Â°C) or above 100Â°F (38Â°C)
 â€¢​ frequent low-speed operation, consistent heavy traffic less than​
25 mph (40 km/h)​ â€¢​ operating in severe dust conditions​
 â€¢​ operating the vehicle off road​
 â€¢​ towing a trailer over 1,000 miles (1,600 km)​
 â€¢​ sustained, high-speed driving at Gross Vehicle Weight Rating​
(maximum loaded weight for vehicle operation)​ â€¢​ use of fuels with sulfur content other than ultra-low sulfur diesel (ULSD)​
â€¢ use of high-sulfur diesel fuel

Y'all do what you want. Mine is still under warranty, so I'll follow the manual. If my motor grenades and Ford does an oil analysis, they will find Shell Synthetic Rotella 5w-40.
Don't trust the stupid dealer. They will put whatever oil they have in it. My dealer didn't have any 5w-40. They wanted to put 10w-30 Motorcraft dinosaur oil in it. You dumbasses what do you think that 5th wheel hitch in the bed does. Why would you even buy a F350 if you weren't going to tow with it??


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## tailinaround90 (Mar 9, 2014)

I have the 2015 and i run the 15w-40 Rotella only because im running 38" tires, Walmart has it by the gallon for $13.90.
Buddy has the 2011 and 120k miles and all he has ever ran is 15w-40 Rotella. i dont see the need in synthetic


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## DSL_PWR (Jul 22, 2009)

I run what Ford sells and only change it when the indicator says so. Usually about every 10k-12k miles.


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## redexpress (Apr 5, 2010)

tailinaround90 said:


> I have the 2015 and i run the 15w-40 Rotella only because im running 38" tires, Walmart has it by the gallon for $13.90.
> Buddy has the 2011 and 120k miles and all he has ever ran is 15w-40 Rotella. i dont see the need in synthetic


I don't see what your tire size has to do with what oil you use, but you and your buddy go for it.


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## cohibatex (Jun 11, 2015)

ok you run the 5w-40 but how often do you change it?


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## redexpress (Apr 5, 2010)

cohibatex said:


> ok you run the 5w-40 but how often do you change it?


I change it when the oil life computer says change. I was in North Carolina the last oil change....towing our 12,500 pound 5th wheel travel trailer after the Bristol NASCAR race. Found a WalMart with Rotella and took it to a Ford dealer. I use their Motorcraft filters. All documented in the Ford system. CYA.
Some Ford dealers have what they call "Fast Lane" service. No appointment needed and they do it pretty fast. Labor for an oil change is only $11. 
I would use the Motorcraft synthetic 5w-40 but it is very expensive and hard to find. Besides, I retired from Shell. Machinery Specialist.
If you are running 38" off road looking tires, and under warranty, you may have a challenge from Ford regarding an engine warranty claim running 15w-40; not 5w-40 CJ4 as they recommend.


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## redexpress (Apr 5, 2010)

Dive off into this. Read all chapters. Test next week.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/


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## scwine (Sep 7, 2006)

redexpress said:


> Dive off into this. Read all chapters. Test next week.
> http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/


Can you give a Cliff Notes version of that article?


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## redexpress (Apr 5, 2010)

If you are doing anything other than a commute with no low speed traffic, use 5w-40 cj4. 
That begs the question: why did you buy a diesel if not to tow?


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## StinkBait (May 31, 2004)

redexpress said:


> If you are doing anything other than a commute with no low speed traffic, use 5w-40 cj4.
> That begs the question: why did you buy a diesel if not to tow?


Why do so many people worry about what others drive? I guess I don't get it. If you are going to give people carp for not towing then we also need to go after sports car owners. If they don't race then they have no business buying a car with that much power.


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## larryamyers (Dec 20, 2009)

I wonder how many people know what synthetic oil really is. We used synthetic grease in all or our roller bearings for rail cars which can run to 1,000,000 miles on the same grease. Grease is "soap" which holds the oil and release's it. If you think of regular oil, imagine it's molecules are made up of golf balls, tennis balls and baseballs. When you specify synthetic oil, they refine it until all that's left are golf balls, the other larger molecules are refined out in the cracking tower. All the same smaller molecules can take higher heat, higher pressure and last longer without breaking down. Isn't that a easy way to understand why synthetic is the best choice? No question it is the best in everything, transmission, rear end, etc. Step up and spend the money, you'll get better mileage and your engine will run cooler too. I will bet the message center will tell you to change it less often. Just my thoughts on oil.


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## redexpress (Apr 5, 2010)

A true synthetic isn't oil or distilled. Royal Purple and Amsoil used to be a PAO, I think. Not sure if they still are, or have a esther blend. 
There has been great debate and lawsuits about major brands (Mobil1) saying they were synthetic, and by the truest definition aren't. If I remember correctly they were allowed to use a very high grade oil (Group IV?) and call it synthetic. I don't know how to define the Pennzoil, and I guess Rotella, synthetics that are made from natural gas from the Shell Pearl GTL (gas to liquids) plant in Qatar.
edit: here's what Wikipedia says:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil


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## redexpress (Apr 5, 2010)

I found a site that has a good explanation of synthetic oil:
http://www.synthetic-oil-technology.info/


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