# Christmas came early this year!!!!!!!



## SwayOveride (Aug 12, 2004)

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s276/swaydillusion/rc18T.jpg

Im just waiting on the servo and Tekin Mini Rage....


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## Guffinator (Aug 27, 2005)

Woohooo!


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

SwayOveride said:


> http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s276/swaydillusion/rc18T.jpg
> 
> Im just waiting on the servo and Tekin Mini Rage....


About time bro!


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## nik77356 (Jun 8, 2007)

mine is almost all FT. just need turnbuckles and a few other things and im all set!!

building it is half the fun!!


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## gkcontra (Feb 25, 2007)

nice


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## cjtamu (Sep 22, 2004)

There ya go. Glad to see you getting back into it.


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## SwayOveride (Aug 12, 2004)

Gota a question for everybody...

When building the diff are there any secrets to building it? I have read that some people are glueing the diff rings to the outdrives because the diff rings are breaking the outdrives.


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## Snowmonkey (Sep 12, 2004)

Good question i would like to know the answer to that also


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## Donnie Hayden (Mar 7, 2005)

Sweet. The 1/18 class is taking off!


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## Big Phil (Apr 27, 2007)

Use the mip diffs and you dont have to worry about it.I have broke the stock ones.


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## KevinLRC (Jul 30, 2004)

Just glue the whole diff together and go drag racing.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

I wouldnt glue the diff rings.


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## danthrc (Jun 19, 2007)

I havent glued mine and they are working fine, both with stock dog bones, and now with CVD's. I also run brushless with all the extra speed and torque. I would reccommend CVD's when you get a chance. There are some very affordable ones out there that are of good quality.

The only main thing you have to be careful with is that you dont over tighten them and strip out the plastic threads that hold the diff together. Also, after the first run, they almost always loosen up. But when you re tighten them, they stay put.

On a side note. GPM makes this diff (below) and it is a drop in. I hear they work great but you can never find them in stock. At the toyz.com they are less than $20. I would like to find some and try them out.


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## cjtamu (Sep 22, 2004)

Be sure to compress the diff spring a few times before you build the diff, just work it in a pair of pliers. Then do it like a 1/10 4wd diff, tighten it until you can't spin the diff gear when the outdrives are held. To keep from stripping plastic I had to tighten until it stopped, back off and tighten a little more, keep doing it until the gear is tight. Bit of a PITA but it works. Like Danny said, after a couple runs I checked mine and ended up tightening about another 1/8 turn and they've held since then. And I didn't glue the diff rings, if it's tight enough you shouldn't need to (Phil, ha ha). You can run teh diff pretty tight with BL power.


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## SwayOveride (Aug 12, 2004)

I test fitted the diff rings to the diff and mine fit prett tight, unlike what some poeple have experienced with the diff rings not fitting. Mine fit tight...


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## ddcarter3 (Jan 1, 2005)

I already have the Ti outdrives. Can you buy the delrin diff gears? Where?


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## SwayOveride (Aug 12, 2004)

Things I have learned through building this RC18T FT kit.

1. ROLL PINS would be nice for the stub axle to be held with. The solid pins (atleast in my kit) slide right out!!! CVD's will be ordered next week.
2. These little ball cups suck. If I can turn the camber link with my fingers who knows how its going to fair at the end of a race.
3. Dont have a servo so I havent put together the steering yet..
4. The kit went together well, but I believe I will order a stainless screw kit for it. 
5. It seems the ball studs are barely 1/16''. I have 3, 1/16'' wrenches and only one fits it. 

I'll stop the ranting and get to building the shocks.... Im having fun, thats all tha counts..


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

SwayOveride said:


> Things I have learned through building this RC18T FT kit.
> 
> 1. ROLL PINS would be nice for the stub axle to be held with. The solid pins (atleast in my kit) slide right out!!! CVD's will be ordered next week.
> 2. These little ball cups suck. If I can turn the camber link with my fingers who knows how its going to fair at the end of a race.
> ...


MIP super diffs on the card.

MIP CVDs on the card.

Lundsford Ti kit on the card.

Slapping Kurt Wenger, priceless!  j/k


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## SwayOveride (Aug 12, 2004)

Gary said:


> MIP super diffs on the card.
> 
> MIP CVDs on the card.
> 
> ...


Im not knocking the kit. I know I am going to have a blast with it as soon as I get it up and running, but there are a couple little things that AE could have improved upon and it probably wouldnt have cost anything in the long run.

Didn't Kurt graduate from A&M?


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

SwayOveride said:


> Im not knocking the kit. I know I am going to have a blast with it as soon as I get it up and running, but there are a couple little things that AE could have improved upon and it probably wouldnt have cost anything in the long run.
> 
> Didn't Kurt graduate from A&M?


LMAO!


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## SwayOveride (Aug 12, 2004)

Mail lady dropped these couple items off today...


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## nik77356 (Jun 8, 2007)

sweet!!! now you can come race this weekend!!


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

http://www.hircr.com/new_page_2.htm


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## Donnie Hayden (Mar 7, 2005)

Cant wait untill the mail man or woman visits me this week


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## SwayOveride (Aug 12, 2004)

Hey guys are there any alternatives to the crappy servo saver? I am tempted to CA the peaces together....


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## Donnie Hayden (Mar 7, 2005)

I ordered 2 of the GPM setups.

http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_details.lasso?id=6486&cat_name=RC18T


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## SwayOveride (Aug 12, 2004)

Do you still use the plastic C for the flex of the saver?

The C portion is what I am looking to get rid of...


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## Donnie Hayden (Mar 7, 2005)

You can take a 18T shock spring and cut a couple coils off or you can get one of these.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=270096527670&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=017


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## Donnie Hayden (Mar 7, 2005)

Read the stuff on here sway. It tells you alot of mods and such you can do on the 18T. The shock spring mod is listed on there as well under the tips section.

http://www.competitionx.com/Support/Sup1.html


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## cjtamu (Sep 22, 2004)

SwayOveride said:


> Things I have learned through building this RC18T FT kit.
> 
> 1. ROLL PINS would be nice for the stub axle to be held with. The solid pins (atleast in my kit) slide right out!!! CVD's will be ordered next week.
> 2. These little ball cups suck. If I can turn the camber link with my fingers who knows how its going to fair at the end of a race.
> ...


AE was sold to Thunder Chicken remember? Think metric. You need a 1.5 and a 2 mm wrench for the RC18's. As far as the servo saver, cut a groove in the plastic C and then cut a rubber band from fuel tubing. Slip it into the groove on the C, works great. Be sure you cut the groove deep enough that the tubing doesn't hit the chassis. Cheap flexible tubing works best.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

What made you decide to go with Tekin Lloyd?


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## SwayOveride (Aug 12, 2004)

Gary said:


> What made you decide to go with Tekin Lloyd?


I can change the wires whenever I want to... Both the Tekin and Quark are top of the line. It was the whole thing if I cut a wire short I can change it out quick, while on the quark you have to unsolder the wires from the main board..


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## SwayOveride (Aug 12, 2004)

The car is mostly finished!! Just some little nic nac items left to go. I just ordered my batteries (IB 1400) from ProMatch. Hope to be up and running soon. Also I am going to order new parts for the stearing as the stock plastic is not that sturdy and they need to be upgraded to metal ones...


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## nik77356 (Jun 8, 2007)

nice!! how are you securing the switch to the battery brace???


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## SwayOveride (Aug 12, 2004)

Double sided tape. I also used 12 ga. wire along with Trinity R Minus connectors for the battery to the speedo.


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## Donnie Hayden (Mar 7, 2005)

Here is one of several packages I have coming. Should solve alot of the steering slop.


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## SwayOveride (Aug 12, 2004)

Donnie where did you order the ball cups from? I will be adding better ones to the car because I can turn the tie rod with my fingers. If I can do this lord only knows what my camber and toe will look like after a race. HAHA


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## Donnie Hayden (Mar 7, 2005)

I ordered all of that from the toyz.


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## Donnie Hayden (Mar 7, 2005)

I have a couple airtronics servos coming in and some stuff from A mainhobbies also.


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## Courtney Vaughan (Apr 11, 2007)

sway, if batteries are all you need to come and race, I have a couple of good 1100 packs you can use


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## Big Phil (Apr 27, 2007)

I have some to


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## Courtney Vaughan (Apr 11, 2007)

ok, so are you comin or not Phil?


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## Big Phil (Apr 27, 2007)

still don't know.


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## SwayOveride (Aug 12, 2004)

Thanks for the offer Courtney but I won't be able to race this weekend. I have to many things to get finished for graduate school. I am planning on coming down the next race though. I just put in an order to The Toyz for a metal servo saver ring, 3 pc aluminum steering assembly and some new ballcups. Hopefully this will fix my steering problems... My goal is when I come to race all the kinks are worked out of the truck and its ready to throw down on the track. As soon as I get my batteries I am going to setup the ESC and work thos problems out if they occur.


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## nik77356 (Jun 8, 2007)

o well that sux!! hope to see you next time!!!

so phil!! are you coming or not???


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## Courtney Vaughan (Apr 11, 2007)

hey Sway, I have every steering and suspension mod you can get on both my 18R and 18T, and there is NO fixing the slop if that's what you're talking about. The metal servo saver will tighten it up, and the metal linkage is MUCH more sturdy, but beyond that nothing really helps that much. I've got all the aluminum knuckles & hubs, better screws & hingepins, bearings, etc.......you will always have play in the steering.


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## nik77356 (Jun 8, 2007)

the only solution i know of is to get the 81mg servo and just not use a servo saver with all of the aluminum mods. wayne and dean at randy's have both done it with no problems whatsoever. i am using a 65mg and i am snapping the plastic components, although i think when i upgrade to metal i dont think i will have any problems but am going to start using a servo saver just in case


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## Courtney Vaughan (Apr 11, 2007)

to me, it appears that once you fix the items directly attached to the servo, the slop starts with the ball cups, and then gets really bad at the outer hingepins, and I've also noticed that the upper and lower screws that hold the steering knuckles into the hubs wobble a lot as well.

I pretty much just gave up trying to solve that dilemma.


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## SwayOveride (Aug 12, 2004)

I mainly want to tighten up the servo saver area and the linkages. I know I wont be able to get all the slop out.


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## Courtney Vaughan (Apr 11, 2007)

with what you've bought, you'll accomplish that goal.


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## nik77356 (Jun 8, 2007)

i bought $100 worth of stuff today, and the worst part is, i forgot stuff!!


does anybody have the part of the servo saver that goes over the stock servo shaft??


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## Courtney Vaughan (Apr 11, 2007)

gotcha covered


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## nik77356 (Jun 8, 2007)

sweet. thanks


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## SwayOveride (Aug 12, 2004)

This is for anybody who knows.

Will the Losi Mini T rear wheels directly fit on the RC18T? I want to buy a set of Losi Streat Meats and if the Mini T rear wheels fit the RC18T I would rather pick up a set that is already mounted on yellow wheels...


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

SwayOveride said:


> This is for anybody who knows.
> 
> Will the Losi Mini T rear wheels directly fit on the RC18T? I want to buy a set of Losi Streat Meats and if the Mini T rear wheels fit the RC18T I would rather pick up a set that is already mounted on yellow wheels...


Yes. I just got done ordering a set.


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## SwayOveride (Aug 12, 2004)

Nice I just ordered a couple sets. I really hate glueing up tires...


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

SwayOveride said:


> Nice I just ordered a couple sets. I really hate glueing up tires...


 I do too. The ones I just built are so out of balance, I blew out a bearing. lol


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## SwayOveride (Aug 12, 2004)

LOL. I figured I would leave it up to the Pros to glue tires, its better for them to glue there fingers together and not me. I am trying to get stuff together because when I come to the next race I want to be prepared, right tires and the truck in racing condition. I havent been able to turn on the ESC but I will be doing that next week when my batteries come in. When the batteries do come in I am going to setup the esc and run the batteries a good 3-5 times before the next race. 

The next race at HIRCR is on the 25th right?


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## Courtney Vaughan (Apr 11, 2007)

Just FYI, atomicmods has the proline wabash spoke mini-T rear/RC18 wheels in white and yellow, and the street meats (same as street treads, but unmounted) in stock. It's about $30 for a set and they arrive the next day......was very satisfied with my order, wasn't but a couple more dollars than ebay, and it arrived ALOT sooner.

I'm really happy with that tire/wheel combo......extreme traction and looks awesome.....so much traction, my tires squealed all day yesterday going around the track!


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Definitly cycle the batts a few times. I charge at 3 amps and discharge at 12 amps. Let em cool in between, you know the drill. I'm building up 4 packs right now for the M18 so Ill have plenty of time to cycle them.

Yup, next race is the 25th.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Courtney Vaughan said:


> Just FYI, atomicmods has the proline wabash spoke mini-T rear/RC18 wheels in white and yellow, and the street meats (same as street treads, but unmounted) in stock. It's about $30 for a set and they arrive the next day......was very satisfied with my order, wasn't but a couple more dollars than ebay, and it arrived ALOT sooner.
> 
> I'm really happy with that tire/wheel combo......extreme traction and looks awesome.....so much traction, my tires squealed all day yesterday going around the track!


LOL! They sure did!


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## Courtney Vaughan (Apr 11, 2007)

and FYI, with proline thin glue, the tires fit right up, glue easily, and are well balanced......if you want them more balanced, you'll have to take them and have them done professionally


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Courtney Vaughan said:


> and FYI, with proline thin glue, the tires fit right up, glue easily, and are well balanced......if you want them more balanced, you'll have to take them and have them done professionally


Some guys use a airplane prop balancer and add gold club weights. Thats overkill for us I think. And who wants to add rotating mass? I dont know if this would work, but I was thinking of clamping a couple of knifes with the edges facing up on a level surface. Stick some sort sort of smooth shaft through the wheel and put that on the knife edges. Look for the heavy side of the wheels and grind off some material on the inside of the rim.

Think that would work? Or at least get close enough for us?


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## nik77356 (Jun 8, 2007)

i dont think that thats easily feasible. i think were better off using a wheel balancer and then shaving off material


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## Donnie Hayden (Mar 7, 2005)

How does proline glue balance your tires, Or any glue for that matter?


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## rex cars (Jul 8, 2007)

*Lo-Buk balancer*

Gary, ive seen mat knife or razor blades used for this type of static balancer.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

rex cars said:


> Gary, ive seen mat knife or razor blades used for this type of static balancer.


Static should be fine. I dont ever see where we'll need dynamic balancing. Heck, I dont balance wheels now! lol

Great meeting you yesterday. You think youll be back?


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## Guffinator (Aug 27, 2005)

There's NO WAY I'm putting forth THAT much effort. Walking to the back and blowing the dust off is about as far as I'm going


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## rex cars (Jul 8, 2007)

Gary said:


> Static should be fine. I dont ever see where we'll need dynamic balancing. Heck, I dont balance wheels now! lol
> 
> Great meeting you yesterday. You think youll be back?


i do plan on coming back again, there's just the great complication of time and dollars. Nice to meet you, and everyone else yesterday.


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## SwayOveride (Aug 12, 2004)

So I received my batteries today and setup the esc. This thing is a little ROCKET. After a few adjustments on the ESC and the radio I calmed this beast down a little. This little car is a blast, I can't wait to get out and race with everybody. When I first started the car and got the ESC setup I realized my diff's were loose and the stearing SUCKED. Now I am just waiting for my new METAL stearing components and some new wheels and tires.


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## Courtney Vaughan (Apr 11, 2007)

you're almost there dude!


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## Big Phil (Apr 27, 2007)

Cool! hey sway what tires you get


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## Donnie Hayden (Mar 7, 2005)

I got both of my airtronics servos in yesterday. After the move I will get everything installed.


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## SwayOveride (Aug 12, 2004)

Big Phil said:


> Cool! hey sway what tires you get


I got the pre mounted Losi Street Meats... Im running the Airtronics 94091 servo with the stock servo saver and mess which will be changed out later on this week to all metal parts to eliminate the slop in the plastic parts. I am really dissapointed in the servo saver design....


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## Donnie Hayden (Mar 7, 2005)

I put the GPM aluminum steering setup in one of my 18T's and there is still play in the steering assembly. There is no way to eliminate all of the slop. It's just one of those things we have to deal with.


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## Big Phil (Apr 27, 2007)

There is a way its called Exotek Tek-18!Iwill get one just for the new steering assembly.slop sucz


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## SwayOveride (Aug 12, 2004)

Just got the parts installed on the car for the stearing and it feels 100% better over stock... Charging batteries now so I can play around outside on the concrete....


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Pics!


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## nik77356 (Jun 8, 2007)

yes, pics!!!


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## SwayOveride (Aug 12, 2004)

This thing is a little rocket. From about 3/4 to full throttle its ballistic. This thing is tons of fun. I have some better balcups to put on it also...


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Wiring looks sweet!


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## nik77356 (Jun 8, 2007)

Gary said:


> Wiring looks sweet!


LOL!!!


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## SwayOveride (Aug 12, 2004)

I still have a little work to do on the stearing. I need to put some new ballcups on the stearing tirods and align the toe to 0 degrees. I also have a centering issue and it is where the metal servo saver meets the metal servo horn. I will be fixing that tomorrow. Just some little things here and there and the truck will be ready to race... Now that the trucks together I can work out all the bugs before I come to race. Thats the last thing I want is to get out at the race and have problems.


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## Donnie Hayden (Mar 7, 2005)

I installed the GPM steering linkages and the airtronics servos in my 18T and 18R today. Everything seems alot better here also. Hopefully I will get my ESC back from Tekin this week.


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## SwayOveride (Aug 12, 2004)

I put the GPM steering linkages and the RoadTech metal servo spring on today also and it seemed alot better but the GPM servo horns notch is smaller than the RoadTech servo spring opening and its creating a problem when the servo comes back to center. So I am going to put the plastic servo horn with the metal servo spring on tomorrow and that should solve my problem, but I am still going to keep the rest of the GPM steering linkage setup. While I have the car tore down I am going to replace the ballcups with the 3 racing ones, reoil the shocks with 30 and 40 wt, and check diffs to make sure they are nice and smooth with the right tightness. Just an overall check after I bashed it in my apartment parking lot.. Once I get the car back together I am going to go play with it on some astro turf to cycle the batteries a couple of times.


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## Donnie Hayden (Mar 7, 2005)

Thats what I use is the 3 racing ballcups. I bought some hot racing ballcups and they flat out suck. They are way too small to fit on the ballstuds. On shock oil, I am running 50wt up front and 40wt out back. I tried 40wt up front and 35 out back and the suspension was just way too mushy for me. I had alot of rolling issues going into the corners. The oils I am running now seem to keep the car planted alot better on the track. This is with blue springs front and rear. I am going to run gold springs up front at the next race and see how that works.


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