# Teak Restoration Project



## snapman (Jun 22, 2004)

*Teak Restoration Project* 
I have begun refinishing the fighting chair. My first step was to use 80 Grit on it to remove the major chunks of old varnish and small scratches etc. Here is my question, after the 80, then a quick shot with the 120 grit it looks a lot better. It has changed from gray ash color to a rich brown again. On to the question, after these first two sandings I still have some vertical grain visible. What I mean by visible is that when I drag my fingernail across the grain I can feel the grain with my nail. Is this normal, or do I need to keep sanding with the 80 until it is completely smooth, then hit it with the 120, 220 etc to sand out the marks from the 80. The grain is very small and can only be felt slightly going perpendicular to it. My concern is that I do not want to take an 1/8th inch off both sides. Thanks for any help on this matter.


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## trodery (Sep 13, 2006)

My thoughts would be to keep sanding.


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## Hooked (Oct 15, 2004)

I would use 220 to get it smooth then possibly hit it lightly with 400 before beginning the 'varnish'.
What finish are you planning to use?


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## snapman (Jun 22, 2004)

I am open to suggestions. I was going to get it all sanded down and then use a gloss Varnish with UV protection in it. I am in Fort Worth so I do not have a lot of great marine stores to run to. I have a sanding block thats 400grt that I planned on using between coats. ANy suggestions on a readily available Varnish?


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## speckle-catcher (May 20, 2004)

I think if you do it just rigth - you should able to cut that chair into at least 100 pen blanks.


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## Bobby (May 21, 2004)

Try Spar varnish you can get it at almost any boat dealer.


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## Surf Hunter (Sep 28, 2006)

since you don't have a lot of marine stores, check out this company, I use them for epoxies and other stuff. Their pricing seems to be great and their service is fast. 
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/main.do;jsessionid=9D329DD6C58119BFA47161D425F99003


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## Slip (Jul 25, 2006)

Go to a marine store. They make a kit with a liquid that brings back the color and grain without a lot of sanding. In a kit, it also includes Teak Oil which is what is recommended to keep teak looking good and keeping color. The sun on another finish may make things look worse.


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## 3192 (Dec 30, 2004)

May be worth a look.

http://www.marinestore.com/teak.html?cart=3260036863174079


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## trout250 (Aug 24, 2005)

snapman remember that teak is a naturally oily wood, an not all varnishes will stick to it for any length of time, better to use teak oil on it,sand it in steps 80, 120, and maybe 220, then coat it in with oil-saturate it until it doesn't want to accept anymore, wipe off excess with an old tee shirt, then let it dry for at least 24hrs. Rub off with bronze wool , steel wool will work but if you leave a piece it will rust, then recoat it again - repeating the procedure 3-4 times or until you achieve the look that you want. Then you can take the bronze wool and a little finish and rub it down ever so often to keep it looking good.

southwestern paint an wallpaper on west gray at montrose carries teak oil.


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## snapman (Jun 22, 2004)

*Pictures*

I have done a quite a bit to the wood so far. I guess I will have to see how it holds up. I sanded it down with 80, then 120, then 220. I made sure the sanding marks were out. Then I hit it with the Spar Varnish. I have put 8 coats on it, sanding between with 320. I hope it holds up. You can see in the pictures how far its come.


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## snapman (Jun 22, 2004)

Here is a better picture.


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## Hooked (Oct 15, 2004)

Looking good snapman. After seeing your renewed wood, I need to get after the teak trim on our boat.


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