# Shimano Calais 200 DC?????



## Freshwaterman (May 21, 2004)

Greetings Everyone!!

This is my first post so please be kind if this has been asked before.

I'm in the market for my first baitcaster reel and I am having difficulty in deciding between all the brands, models, etc. (centrifical or magnetic or both or even the new digital).

Since I like to buy the best available, I would like to know if any of you have the Calais 200 DC model and do you like it? Is it really worth the $650.00 or would I be happy with the $100-$250 versions?

I've also been contemplating getting the Abu Garcia Revo STX since it seems to have a simple type of magnetic system. I really don't want to have to do much with adjustments on the centrifical-type.

BTW- I plan on using it off of a ocean pier for about six months and then only freshwater.

Also, could you please advise me on which type of rod is best suited for these baitcasters? (6'6" or 7') and which action (fast, medium, etc?) and why?? 
Your experienced comments will be greatly appreciated.

 
Thanks in advance!!

Great Forum!!!

Kevin!


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## calixtog (May 24, 2006)

Save your money and start off with a good, solid, moderately-priced reel. A Citica 200 ($119) should do quite nicely. Save the Calais for later down the line, when you've learned how to make a casting reel do everything you want it to.

Match it with a 7', 7'6 Clarus medium/fast action rod, and you're all set to go.

Good luck to ya!

Cg


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## Bantam1 (Jun 26, 2007)

I agree. Start with something you can learn with and that is durable. The Citica and Curado are great reels.


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## ATE_UP_FISHERMAN (Jun 25, 2004)

I'd say, get the Calais.. If you're gonna learn on one, it might as well be on a good one.
 I wouldn't suggest getting a magnetic reel unless you stay in fresh water. G Loomis GLX series rods are top of the line as far as rods go. Get you a 6'6" or a 6'8" 
http://products.gloomis.com/gl/products/group.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302032499&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=1408474395181201&bmUID=1183994329863


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## Freshwaterman (May 21, 2004)

Thanks for the replies!!

Why isn't it a good idea to use the magnetic-type on saltwater? Does the saltwater have a way of getting into the reel just from the line?

I maybe should have been a little more clear of my fishing background, but I didn't want my first post to be a lengthly one.

I use mainly fly-fishing/spinning reels. I have never used a baitcasting reel. Even so, I was able to learn the fly-casting very quickly. The only baits that I have used is flies and cut-bait (at the pier). I want to be more active in my pier fishing than just adding some cut bait and throwing out a line and waiting for a strike. It seem to me that a baitcasting reel would be more active, by casting and retrieving and such. I'm assuming that baitcasting reels cast further and are easier than the spinning reels for this.

I guess what I'm trying to learn is if spending the extra money on the DC version-type reel is really any better (as far as casting/use/dependability.goes, etc) than that of say the reels that are in the $100-$300 range? Or are they all about the same quality/durability? Mostly, I wouldn't want to purchase a $100 reel just to find out that the $300-$550 reel is what I should have purchased in the first place.

Which do most people prefer? Centrifical,magnetic? or combination of both (DC?)

I am just starting to learn about all the different types of lures that you baitcasters use (crankbaits, spinners, plastics, hard, etc) There seems to be so many to choose from. I really like to catch fish on artificials (flies, etc.), so this would be an exciting venture for me.

Maybe this is a better way to put my question.

Thanks again!

Kevin


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## ATE_UP_FISHERMAN (Jun 25, 2004)

The Magnets ride against a metal plate that is steel and will rust. Bantam1 who posted above, works for Shimano and can tell you anything you need to know about them. Each reel is suited for a specific consumer. The Calais reels in 30" per crank and is a smooth reel because it has ten bearings in it. That's why people buy them. The Calais DC has the computer cast controls on it to keep it from back lashing. That's why people buy them. The Chronarch MG has a magnesium frame and weighs 5.9oz and is very light. That's why people buy them. They all are different. I personally am partial to the Chronarch 50mg because it weighs almost nothing. Put it with a very light rod and you will have a combo that will let you stay out for the long haul.


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## trout250 (Aug 24, 2005)

my 2cents you will be better off buying one of the cheaper mdls,the tolerances on the calais are so close that if you get a grain of sand in the space between the spool an frame its gonna grind, also it voids all warranty on it if you bust it open an try to clean it yourself, i would go with the curado or citica and a 7 ft rod for fishing off the pier, maybe even a 7' 6" rod.
I wish you the best of luck in finding yourself a good rig, as with everthing else all of the newer reels require some mainteance to keep them working proficiently.


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## Bantam1 (Jun 26, 2007)

The DC reel is typically for the enthusiast that spends a lot of time on the water. The Calais reels in general require slightly more routine maintenance than the Citica will due to tight tollerances. 


The magnetic control is approved for salt water and is sealed with epoxy. The water will not harm this unit. We do not void your warranty if you open the reel to clean it yourself. We do recommend that you send the reel to us for service due to the complex design of the reel. It comes with a 2 year warranty and our Platinum service plan. This means we will have the reel no more than 48 hours before it is returned to you. 

If you have the money and you want the best then go with the Calais DC. If you are a beginner and do not like to service your equipment frequently then go with a Chronarch, Curado or Citica. Any reel used in salt water will require routine maintenace. The reels listed above will be much easier to disassemble yourself and maintain.


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## Freshwaterman (May 21, 2004)

Thanks everyone!!!--- You've answered all my questions. I see all of your points and will probably not go for the DC. Instead, I will take your advice and get a reel (Chronarch, Abu Garcia, etc) one that I can service easier for the salt environment for the next few months. After that it will only be used in freshwater. I will most likely go with one that has just the magnet style brakes, since I really don't want to open it up to adjust any centrifical pins and such.

Also, I just read that Shimano is coming out with a new line/products in a day or two. There might be something that might hit my fancy.


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## Freshwaterman (May 21, 2004)

Bantam 1:

If you would please help me with just a few more questions, and I will get out of your hair.

I have narrowed down my purchase to either the Citica, Chronarch, or Corado after reading that many people love these reels and highly recommend them. 

My questions are these: 

Since all of these reels have the ABS centrifical systems on them, could you please tell this future rookie baitcaster how and when these are adjusted after taking off the side plate?

Also, when are these adjustments necessary to make? Are they made for each type of lure (weight controlled?), or are they just set for each persons casting force?

I tried to google one of the Shimano manuals, but could not find one to see if it explained this. Remember, I have never used and have no knowledge of this type of reel---- yet!! 

One other question if I may. 

When I see the line rating on these reels (ex. 150/12 as on the Citica D200DSV model) does that mean mono line? And if so, does that mean that they will hold more line if I use braided line. (ie. power pro line rated at 15 lbs = the diameter of only 4 for mono)? I wouldn't want to throw off the balance of my new reel by putting 200 yards of braided line if thats' not how its done.

Thank you in advance for your patience and comments. I look forward to your response.

Kevin


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## ATE_UP_FISHERMAN (Jun 25, 2004)

Bantam1 said:


> The magnetic control is approved for salt water and is sealed with epoxy. The water will not harm this unit.


I should have known that Shimano fixed the problem... I had a scorpion 4X4 that had a rusty plate in it...



Kevinindel. When you buy a reel it will have a manual that will tell you all about the centrifugal weights and how to adjust them. 

The weights can be adjusted out away from the center of the spool to slow the spools rpms down. When you buy the reel it should come with four weights in and 2 out. I would start with only two weights in until you get the hang of it. When you adjust the weights out or in you will do it in twos. Do two across from each other so that you maintain an even spool balance.

Shimano rates their line capacity with the thickest monofilament line available. If you use Power P you will get more line on the spool. Hope this helps.


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## Mustake (Jun 4, 2007)

The wieghts need to be adjusted when the over run happens at the end of the cast. You adjust the tensioner on the right side if the over run happens at the beggining of the cast.

I rarley have to adjust the wieghts (I have 2 on) If the conditions change and I'm having to throw into a 15kt wind, then I turn on a third wieght. You also need more on if you're thowing a light lure. Just remember to pay attention to when the backlash is occurring. Once you get it dialed in you'll be very happy.


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## Bantam1 (Jun 26, 2007)

ATE_UP_FISHERMAN said:


> I should have known that Shimano fixed the problem... I had a scorpion 4X4 that had a rusty plate in it...
> 
> ...Shimano rates their line capacity with the thickest monofilament line available. If you use Power P you will get more line on the spool. Hope this helps.


The 4x4 system has not been changed. I was talking about the DC unit that has been sealed in epoxy. Since we do not use the 4x4 system here in the US I do not have any helpful info for you there. The Scorpion reels were designed for use in freshwater only.

We use a formula based on average mono diameters to provide line capacity. It will vary depending on the brand of line, line type etc;


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