# Replacing a one piece tub/shower is not all that difficult if....



## Super Dave (May 26, 2004)

The one piece tub/shower in the beach house developed some spider cracks in the bottom of the tub and I decided to replace before leakage became an issue. The original builder left a 2 ft by 5 ft access panel loose in an adjacent closet so I had eyes on all the piping, the drain etc. This was a factor that made the change out easy to plan. Original piping was all pvc except the riser for the shower which was copper pipe.

Planning is very important, especially when you are working at the beach with limited access to lumber and parts. I couldn't decide whether to use all sharkbite fittings or just redo with cpvc as the original piping. I decided to have both on hand since I could always return unused supplies. And, don't forget fresh cleaner and glue. For the shark bite fittings don't forget the tool to smooth the ends of the pipe and the tool to release the fittings when desired. They cost about a buck or so each.

Original tub size was 60x32in and 58in tall on the wall.Original was a one piece. Replacement is same size except the wall is a three piece caulkless kit. total cost of the new tub/wall was $488 and made by Sterling(Kohler).

Disconnecting the piping was a snap with the access panel removed. A sawzall is the tool to use for cutting up the original wall into handy pieces. A 5 1/2 in circular saw is the tool for adjusting the height of the receptacle for the wall. I had to remove about a 3 in sliver for the wall to fit nicely.

Tip: save all your old molding for reuse or tracing the angles on new molding.

A helper is needed for lifting the old tub out and resetting the new tub, otherwise the project is doable for one man. I need someone to talk to though and for picking up all the stuff I drop so the wifey came in real handy to have onsite.

Another tip: when you disconnect the tub piping, make a cut below the tub valve manifold and install cpvc valves on the two water inlets. This will allow you to have water to the rest of the house during the project.

It only took about 45 min to cut out the old tub/shower. A shop vac is a handly tool to have for cleaning up all the roach **** and saw dust etc for a clean receptacle for the replacement.

Tip: there are numerous videos on the net for installing the particular brand you will be using. Running thru the procedure was a very smart thing to do BEFORE starting the project.

Don't forget to research the installation of the overflow piping and drain for your brand. This is also the time to decide if you need to install any support handles on the wall if you are elderly etc. You will want to take numerous pictures for later use when you get the old tub/wall out for installing any handles on studs etc. Take pictures of each wall and the floor of the entire enpty alcove where the new tub/wall will be set. Mark stud locations on the sheetrock or whatever you have that will be above the new wall. Carefully mark both edges of the studs as well as the center. This may be needed later if handles are to be installed.

Instructions will emphasize that the tub needs to be level and secured before trying to set the wall kit. Mine was an inch off level. INstructions say to shim the tub if needed. Well, easier said than done(and videos show little strips of popsicle sticks used as shims) unless a friend comes by during the project and explains how to shim when you don't have access except for one side. It's called carefull measurements and cutting shims of different thicknesses from 2x4's that can be set to span the entire width of the tub. Worked like a charm. With the bottom of the tub anchored on the floor in the rear and set on two sets of tubwide shims about midway and at the front end, that tub was solid as a rock without even starting to secure it with the furnished clips for that purpose. It was perfectly level. This makes a huge difference when later setting the walls. They don't set very will if the tub is off level.

After installing the clips that secure the tub in place, the walls are easy to set and slip right in place.

Tip: pre set the walls before securing them in place to ensure all the pieces match with no gaps etc. This is also the time to set any backing boards on studs for later installation of handles. My walls came with a strip of foam glued to the rear of each wall. Purpose was to maintain rigidity of the wall and standoff from the studs(when no handles are being used). This is an extremely important feature of my wall kit so if anyone needs a more detailed explanation PM me and I will call you to discuss this feature.
My wall kit is the Sterling "Ensemble" kit in 60x32x74high dimensions. The ensemble design has a curved wall standoff(variable distance from the studs) that will be your worst nightmare for installing handles without proper backing boards unless you do what I did. Enough said on this.

When setting the walls, don't forget the 4" by 1" bead of silicone caulk on the outside corners of the bottom of the wall. This is the only sealant you will use during the project.

Since this new tub is about 6 inches higher than the old one, modifications to the height of the shower riser and additions to the water piping had to be made to hook up the tub. I used a new copper drain piping, didn't really have to but wanted to for the looks. That was a dumb idea that cost me an extra $100 but it "looks" good. Was able to use the existing valve manifold after shortening the length of the shower riser and used a sharkbite fitting for connecting it. Decided to just use cpvc on everything else like the original which lasted about 25 years and still effective until the tub bottom started cracking.

Finished out by shoring up the bottom of the new tub with foam using an extender and 5 cans of foam and spraying it between the shims and from the front thru the open panel in closet. Now letting everything set up before testing it out with a body.


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