# Balsa USA 1/6th scale Sopwith Pup build.



## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Power will be provided by a Saito 56 and most likely I'll stick with the standard antique Solartex with the roundel design, but I am open for suggestions. I'm also thinking of NOT clear coating the covering and just let it get that vintage look.

The kit.

I had already started this build am just fast forwarding.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

What this plane looks like during flight.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Setting up the building board and the start. Cleaning up the ribs.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Now for some wing assembly.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

I'm using the usual CA's, but I am using as much Titebond II as I can.










Joining the upper right wing half with the center section.










Joining the upper left wing half.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

I pulled off this build in order to get back to another plane I have further along. Sig Four Star 60. More to follow.


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## A6TEXAN (Apr 2, 2010)

Ok cool gary, im anxiously watching build.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Thanks. I want to finish up my 4 Star 60 first though. Right now I'm trying to figure out how to run my throttle cable before sheeting the top deck.

Got the tank and extra large RX pack in. I went with a really big RX battery since the 4 Stars build tail heavy. I mean, why not add more battery capacity instead of just dead lead? h:

Power is a Magnum 91 four stroke.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Pics of the battery pack.

5000 mah.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Being that I'm building two planes at the same time, Ill be including my 4 Star 60 in this thread. I think I have the throttle cable routing figured out and that is always a challenge when using 4-strokes. And also while trying to keep access to the fuel tank for removal. Once I add the top sheeting, there is no more access to the tank except from the wing bay.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

I know the title mentions the Pup, but I don't feel the need to start another thread for my 4 Star 60 build. I got a little more done on it in the last couple of weeks. I got the top decking done, painted the cockpit area and began routing the control rods and am doing something I have never done before.

Being a fan of the Sullivan Gold-N-Rods, that's what I planned on using. Then I found out the laser cut holes through the formers are oversize for the Sullivan's. However, the outer housings from the Sullivan's fit perfectly through the I.D. of the kit's standard O.D. tubing. I think this will make for a much more robust design with less chance of pushrod flex in an overpowered possibly 9 pound plane.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

I am now moving back to the Sopwith Pup build. Getting the board set up for building the bottom wing and have a piece of advice for the newer builders and I can't believe I didn't do this. Once your settled in and identified all those W1 and so on ribs, mark them ALL! And don't wait several months, or in this case a year before moving on.

I could of saved an hour or two of build time doing not only that, but bundling and marking all the spars etc.

Another suggestion. When you buy wax paper, but it by the case! I'm stuck with plastic.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Not much to report today. Framing the lower left wing half.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Got a little more work done on the lower left wing half. I probably won't get much more work done today because of the game.

GO TEXANS!


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Hopefully I built this wing panel flat enough. :tongue:


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Still working the lower wing, I finished both wing panels, the center section and am now mating the three, or actually the right side and the center section since my table isn't long enough to properly measure the 1" dihedral on both sides at the same time.

I'm using Titebond II and after that dries Ill shift everything over to the right and glue up the left wing panel.

I haven't done much sanding, just a little _rough _shaping on the lower wing at this point. I'm going to wait on final shaping/sanding on the wing after I complete the wing panel so as to compare it to the top wing. I want to set them side by side and try and get the shapes as close as possible.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

I got a little bored and lost building the wings and decided to work on the horizontal stabilizer jumping ahead. This is NOT an easy build and sometimes I just need to walk away and come back another day.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

I'm running a little behind with work and all. I'll probably have to work some more OT this weekend, but I won't complain. I like the extra money!









Got a little more done on the "H" Stab today but will most likely spend tomorrow evening ordering what I need to finish up my toy Pup. I most likely won't get back on the Busa build until Sunday and since football season is over here, I should have the whole day for building. I like building.









http://2coolfishing.com/ttmbforum/showthread.php?t=460548


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Still working on the H stab, I am deviating from the instructions I think. On the fore section it calls for 1/16" sheeting and they don't show any ribs, so I made some from 1/8" scrap. It's probably not necessary, but it was bugging me and I gained maybe half a gram.


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## spencey820 (Oct 17, 2011)

that looks nice


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

spencey820 said:


> that looks nice


Thanks. This NOT an easy plane to build. It took me about 6 hours just to build what's in the next pic. And I'm not done yet. 

I finished framing up my H Stab and elevator and got the first pass on sanding done. I used a little filler to bring up the low spots as I would rather use filler than sand everything down and thin these surfaces down too much. I'm also using Patch-n-Paint which is white unlike Balsa Rite, but I don't mind. It might show through the Solartex, but that's ok with me. Since I won't be sealing the covering, the plane will take on a weathered look before long anyway. I'm about to hinge the elevator to the stab. I will be cutting the slots with a Dremmel cut off wheel and the hinges I'm using are Du-Bro with the little metal hinge and I know some might thing, whoa, that gap will be too wide!







The difference is actually .015" and by the time my unsteady hands get done, it might be .025". Just enough for 30 minute epoxy.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Dremel method and how the hinge looks.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Hinged, ready for for matching the two appendages, rounding of the corners, beveling the leading edge of the elevator and making all things so purdy. :cheers:

Perfect gap between the stab and elevator. Yes, I am good.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

For rounding the fore corners of the stab and attempt to make them equal, I made a gauge using a 2" spinner back plate. It's not perfect, but should be symmetrical. The pin holes will be filled later with filler.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Forget the gauge, just eyeball it.


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## Ronborsk (Jan 28, 2006)

How does that patch n paint sand? I always had problems with adhesion as well as being able to sand balsa right without sanding too much off. The stuff always seemed too soft.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Works great Ron. Its super light and sands well. I like to thin it a little with water because as if its sort of dry, it doesnt stick well.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Got my fin and rudder framed up and sitting aside waiting on glue to dry. And now, finally I get to the fuse.







Up to this point this has been a long build with no end in sight. I just feel so much better getting to the fuse because now I might start seeing the semblance of a plane.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Here is an example of how I use the filler sometimes. This is the top deck of my Four Star 60 and it's curved so a putty knife would be sort of, well, not curved. I used a whetted sponge, put some filler on it, tried to replicate the curvature and went to work. The added moisture allows the filler better adhesion soaking into the wood and the curve of the sponge saves not only wasted filler, but sanding time. And just for grins I went over it with a whetted paint brush.


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