# Threading a regular barrel on Tikka



## TeamJefe

I recently ordered a 30 cal can and want a bolt action 308 to put it on. I was thinking about a Tikka T3 Lite but did not know if this barrel would accept threads or if I need a heavy contour barrel to be able to thread it. Can I put threads on a regular Lite barrel?


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## Bottomsup

What size threads are on the can?


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## Trouthunter

Almost any barrel can be threaded.

TH


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## horned frog

Most .30 cal suppressors seem to be threaded 5/8x24.

There may not be enough "shoulder" for the can to square up against if the diameter of the muzzle is pretty small prior to threading.


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## BradV

I am not sure how much meat there is to thread. The largest factory thread you can get on a T3 lite is 15x1mm. This equates to ~0.591" while 5/8 x 24" threads equate to 0.625". While these arent exactly what the thread major dimensions will be, you can see it is going to be close to .034" different.

The first step I would take would be to simply measure the OD of the T3 barrel with some calipers. If there is enough material then go for it! You should be able to find a T3 lite in your larger stores, or maybe someone here has one and would measure for you.


One thing to be aware of is that the threading job must be concentric to the bore axis, NOT the outside of the barrel. If it is done in another fashion it is not being done properly. 

A custom solution is also possibility if you can't go straight to 5/8 x 24".


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## Bird

Thread adapter from 1/2x 28 to 5/8x 24. I did this on a 7mm-08 to ease the recoil and noise for one of my boys. Understand that you have a light weight sporter barrel so you shouldn't be blazing rounds downrange or accuracy will suffer significantly. Also bear in mind that a can will add 8-9" of length to the barrel and very noticeable weight so consider that if you plan to carry the gun in the field. A 24" barrel with a 9" can isn't something you swing around casually in a blind either.

As an alternative, you may consider a Rem 700 SPS Tactical with threaded barrel or the Rem AAC tactical. Ruger and Savage both make rifles with factory threaded barrels as well.


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## BradV

Bird said:


> Thread adapter from 1/2x 28 to 5/8x 24. I did this on a 7mm-08 to ease the recoil and noise for one of my boys. Understand that you have a light weight sporter barrel so you shouldn't be blazing rounds downrange or accuracy will suffer significantly. Also bear in mind that a can will add 8-9" of length to the barrel and very noticeable weight so consider that if you plan to carry the gun in the field. A 24" barrel with a 9" can isn't something you swing around casually in a blind either.
> 
> As an alternative, you may consider a Rem 700 SPS Tactical with threaded barrel or the Rem AAC tactical. Ruger and Savage both make rifles with factory threaded barrels as well.


This is the easiest way if you can't make 5/8 x 24" on the Lite barrel. My concern though is how thin the barrel will become with a .308 bore. The 7mm-08 gives a bit more thickness in the barrel.

On another note, Have you given any thought to a .260 Remington? If for target only, I would rate it better than .308, especially for distance.


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## TeamJefe

The threads on the can are 1/2 by 28. I wanted a 308 because the availability of sub sonic 308 rounds.


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## BradV

You are good to go then  I would inquire with the gunsmith or possibly even email Tikka about making sure cutting it to 1/2 x 28" is strong enough for the .308 muzzle pressures.


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## Bird

TeamJefe said:


> The threads on the can are 1/2 by 28. I wanted a 308 because the *availability of sub sonic 308 rounds*.


:rotfl: Just kidding but I am chuckling a little to myself. If you have a reliable source at a decent cost for 308 sub loads, do share. I load my own 308 subs. It is a very easy cartridge to load subs with pretty good (for sub rounds) accuracy. If you don't reload, you should at least for your subs. You will get addicted to shooting with a can, very little noise, very little recoil. I grin like a little kid everytime I go to the range and shoot sub loads through my cans. You will too, everyone does.


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## 999

If you didn't already have the gun I would do a little research and see what the minimum barrel thickness your can manufacture recommends.

The shoulder of the threaded barrel is what centers the can not the threads. So threading a too thin barrel would give the risk of the can not aligning right and having a baffle strike. This may not be under warranty if you used a smaller diameter than recommended.

Most 308 cans are 5/8x24 and the 223 ones are 1/2x28 so I would double check that.

Savage sells a hog hunter that is factory threaded in 308 with an accu trigger for $400, with a crappy stock on it.


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## Bottomsup

The shoulder of the threaded barrel is what centers the can not the threads. So threading a too thin barrel would give the risk of the can not aligning right and having a baffle strike. 


Not if the barrel is threaded to fit the can.


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## Bass-Tracker

999 said:


> The shoulder of the threaded barrel is what centers the can not the threads. So threading a too thin barrel would give the risk of the can not aligning right and having a baffle strike.





Bottomsup said:


> Not if the barrel is threaded to fit the can.


Actually 999 is correct.
The threads on suppressors are class 2 fit, to allow for some degree of dirt or burned powder residue from shooting.
A shoulder behind the muzzle threads is a must have, to help seal the suppressor to barrel contact area. A shoulder also aligns the barrel to the suppressor.

The "only" other way to align the suppressor to the barrel is to seat the muzzle against the inside shoulder of the suppressor but, only if the suppressor has such a shoulder inside, which most don't.

As a side not, the M-14 type rifles have a .595x32 thread on the muzzle & works just fine on suppressors.
Threading 1/2x28 for a 308 will work but not the best choice. The 1/2x28 will also allow for use on smaller caliber rifles if you choose to make the 308 suppressor multi usable.

.


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## Bottomsup

Horse ****. I guess you have never run a lathe or fitted a barrel to an action have you?



Bass-Tracker said:


> Actually 999 is correct.
> The threads on suppressors are class 2 fit, to allow for some degree of dirt or burned powder residue from shooting.
> A shoulder behind the muzzle threads is a must have, to help seal the suppressor to barrel contact area. A shoulder also aligns the barrel to the suppressor.
> 
> The "only" other way to align the suppressor to the barrel is to seat the muzzle against the inside shoulder of the suppressor but, only if the suppressor has such a shoulder inside, which most don't.
> 
> As a side not, the M-14 type rifles have a .595x32 thread on the muzzle & works just fine on suppressors.
> Threading 1/2x28 for a 308 will work but not the best choice. The 1/2x28 will also allow for use on smaller caliber rifles if you choose to make the 308 suppressor multi usable.
> 
> .


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## 999

*TBAC*
"The shoulder is what the threads tighten against and it's what actually keeps the suppressor straight." - This is directly from Zak Smith owner of Thunderbeast specifically talking about a 30-P1.

He built my suppressor so I am going to take his word for it.

TBAC uses class 3 threads and the threads should be checked with a guage not the suppressor.

They don't recommend a 1/2" thread for .30 cal cans, but not saying it couldn't be done.

I have specifically spoken with him about threading my .243, and he made it very clear that the shoulder is what keeps the suppressor clear.

*Silerco/SWR -* These are dierctly from my user manuals
"For proper alignment, it is essential that the supressor thread against a 90 degree barrel shoulder."

"If the supressor becomes tight before seating against the shoulder or it still feels loose afterseating against the shoulder, STOP DO NOT USE the suppressor in this condition and contact Silerco/SWR.


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## Bottomsup

If the barrel is threaded to fit the can it doesnt matter what the thread class is on the can. There is no better way to align something such as this than to cut the threads to a perfect fit. Why do you think barrel are fitted to an action? Now if your going to thread the barrel without the can present then yes the threads will at best be a class two and will depend on a shoulder to center it. Amazing how many of you are a machinist now.


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## Bass-Tracker

Bottomsup said:


> Horse ****. I guess you have never run a lathe or fitted a barrel to an action have you?


The chamber end of the barrel shoulder also tightens against the front of the receiver & has a "crush" factor when torqued to the receiver.

Just so YOU know, I have my own machine shop.
I thread barrels all the time.
I cut class 3 threads on the barrel muzzle.
I'm also a 1rst class machinist & have 30+ years experience which, by the looks of YOUR post, trumps YOU.

I also make thread adapters for use on suppressors.
Every suppressor maker says that suppressors should be lined up by the barrel shoulder.
The threads are used as a way to attach them, but the threads (if cut concentric as they should be) also "help" to line it up.
The threads & shoulder should be cut on the same setup........if done correctly.
TBAC, Silencerco, AAC, etc. say the same thing as can be seen in the other post.



.


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## Bottomsup

Bass-Tracker said:


> The chamber end of the barrel shoulder also tightens against the front of the receiver & has a "crush" factor when torqued to the receiver.
> 
> Just so YOU know, I have my own machine shop.
> I thread barrels all the time.
> I cut class 3 threads on the barrel muzzle.
> I'm also a 1rst class machinist & have 30+ years experience which, by the looks of YOUR post, trumps YOU.
> 
> I also make thread adapters for use on suppressors.
> Every suppressor maker says that suppressors should be lined up by the barrel shoulder.
> The threads are used as a way to attach them, but the threads (if cut concentric as they should be) also "help" to line it up.
> The threads & shoulder should be cut on the same setup........if done correctly.
> TBAC, Silencerco, AAC, etc. say the same thing as can be seen in the other post.


So you think 30 years as a machinist trumps me? I am an engineer who has 28 years machining experience. I started, owned and operated an aircraft engine manufacturing business that also designed and built engine for Nasa, the US Navy and Top Fuel drag racing legend Eddie Hill. I have tested barrels for the famous barrel maker Ed Shilen. I own two patents for products I designed. Sure the manufactures want you to use a shoulder so they can cut class two threads and it lets them off the hook. I have a patent pending for a silencer that I have designed and you can bet your *** it has class three threads and must be custom fitted to the barrel. So if you want to go toe to toe bring it.


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## Bass-Tracker

Bottomsup said:


> So you think 30 years as a machinist trumps me? I am an engineer who has 28 years machining experience. I started, owned and operated an aircraft engine manufacturing business that also designed and built engine for Nasa, the US Navy and Top Fuel drag racing legend Eddie Hill. I have tested barrels for the famous barrel maker Ed Shilen. I own two patents for products I designed. Sure the manufactures want you to use a shoulder so they can cut class two threads and it lets them off the hook. I have a patent pending for a silencer that I have designed and you can bet your *** it has class three threads and must be custom fitted to the barrel. So if you want to go toe to toe bring it.


Now that's some funny entertainment right there.
I've known Ed Shilen & his family for almost 30 years.
I know for a fact that Ed had his own testing lab.
I have a friend who lives about 10 minutes from his business.
Ed has been out of it for about 15 years now & sold the biz years ago to a family friend.

Ed has 13 world records & was inducted to the bench rest hall of fame (along with Mike Walker from Remington).
He doesn't need someone else to tell him anything or do his work for him.

Patents don't mean squat.
My experiences are far to many to list here.
I'm in 3 books & have done more in the firearms business than most other single persons around.
 I have 14 designs that I came out with in the last 30+ years.

Enough about me but, you need to keep trying to improve while you're still young enough.
On 2nd thought, you won't have time with the way the world is going.
Good luck.

.


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## sixshootertexan

I been machining for 30+ years and I would not trust just the threads to line up a can.
A 1/2-28 class 3 can have as much as .006" slop.


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## Bottomsup

Well there is no educating the know it alls such as you. Now your a patent attorney who knows the law and what patents mean. LMAO You should educate the corporate world and let them know they are wasting money on patents. Ask Ed who tested his .17 barrels when he first came out with them? It was Mobe Renolds and me. Like I said if you want to go toe to toe bring it on. I agree with you on one thing and that is the world is going to ****.


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## Bottomsup

Sixshooter, I wouldnt just trust a certain class thread to fit either. I would completely trust a custom fitted thread with no play. If you read my original post I said if the barrel was threaded to fit the can. I would want a shoulder to jam up against also but I see no need for a boss or shoulder for the can to go over and center it. That is just a way for manufacturers to sell their products to anyone and make it fit. Why do accuracy smiths cut barrel threads to fit the action and true the threads in the action? Because the threads are what aligns the two. I was just trying to help a guy out.


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## spurgersalty

Strange, my smith trues the barrel to the receiver, not just the threads. If only the threads were "trued", the 2 faces could be out of square.


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## Bottomsup

Yes you true both. But what centers the barrel in the action? The threads.


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