# Using 10 inch mitre saw to cut metal?



## GMTK (Sep 8, 2008)

I have a 10 inch blade craftsman mitre saw and was wondering, if I switch out the blade, if it can be used to cut metal. I need to cut 90 metal stair balusters that are about 1/4 inch square and hollow. Read some posts online saying cutting metal would burn up the bearings in the saw, but those articles dealt with cutting rebar. 

Will it hurt the saw and what type blade should I use I it won't hurt the saw?


----------



## Blk Jck 224 (Oct 16, 2009)

I'd do it. Get a quality metal blade & go slow as not to put too much pressure on it. I use my bolt cutters to cut rebar.


----------



## TXTWOGUNS (May 5, 2006)

It won't hurt the saw!
Make sure that you protect your eyes!!!!!!!!! and use a metal high speed cut-off disc.


----------



## chumy (Jul 13, 2012)

You can cut thin metal by putting a standard wood blade on backwards.
Wear yoursafety glasses!!


----------



## Jeff SATX (Jan 18, 2011)

TXTWOGUNS said:


> It won't hurt the saw!
> Make sure that you protect your eyes!!!!!!!!! and use a metal high speed cut-off disc.


:cheers:


----------



## GMTK (Sep 8, 2008)

chumy said:


> You can cut thin metal by putting a standard wood blade on backwards.
> Wear yoursafety glasses!!


Now that's funny.


----------



## CoastalOutfitters (Aug 20, 2004)

do not use a carbide blade backwards, they can and willl sling the carbide teeth

you want either the abrasive cutoff blade made for steel

or a 0 degree kerf blade made for alum , they are at least 100 tooth blades and oil w wd-40

take a piece of t-shirt and wrap over the motor vents so it can breath and put a big rubber band over it

when all done blow saw out well w an air nozzle


----------



## Mont (Nov 17, 1998)

I have done it, but managed to melt the plastic blade guard doing so. That didn't really affect anything, unless you are OSHA. It's messy, so take that into consideration where you set up.


----------



## chumy (Jul 13, 2012)

GMTK said:


> Now that's funny.


I wasn't joking.


----------



## Pocketfisherman (May 30, 2005)

chumy said:


> You can cut thin metal by putting a standard wood blade on backwards.
> Wear yoursafety glasses!!


For aluminum, yes that is true. For steel you will burn the blade tips in short order ruining the blade, even on thin metal.


----------



## Smackdaddy53 (Nov 4, 2011)

I would not cut them on a standard chop saw period. Do it right and use a grinder with a cutoff wheel, a real metal chop saw with an abrasive blade, a portable band saw, or hack saw if you are feeling frisky.
To add to other posts, the only time you turn a wood blade around is in a circular saw when you are cutting thin sheet metal like galvalum for sheds. When cutting aluminum with a regular chop saw you use a regular finishing blade and never turn it around backwards. Aluminum cuts like butter, especially if you use cutting compound to keep the teeth clean.

http://www.fishingscout.com/scouts/SmackDaddy


----------



## GMTK (Sep 8, 2008)

Looking at the cost of a good blade ($130-$180), I think I may just drive 30 minutes to my uncles and he has a shop full of everything needed for metal work. I can make minor corrections with a hacksaw.


----------



## GMTK (Sep 8, 2008)

chumy said:


> I wasn't joking.


Wow, had no idea.

I also have a 4 1/2 inch angle grinder. Can I swap a blade on that and use it to cut?

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-4-1-...1x000001&kpid=00924542000&kispla=00924542000P


----------



## chumy (Jul 13, 2012)

Pocketfisherman said:


> For aluminum, yes that is true. For steel you will burn the blade tips in short order ruining the blade, even on thin metal.


I've cut 100's of tin sheets using a worn out carbide tip wood blade put on backwards. I'm not saying it's the safest or best way. It's just the way we used to do it.
have a good day!


----------



## TXXpress (May 23, 2004)

GMTK said:


> Looking at the cost of a good blade ($130-$180), I think I may just drive 30 minutes to my uncles and he has a shop full of everything needed for metal work. I can make minor corrections with a hacksaw.


The hour round-trip transit is well worth the effort. The Emergency Room wait time will be 6 times that one hour transit. :help: (Experience talking here...) Do it right and be safe!


----------



## JFolm (Apr 22, 2012)

Yes you can use a 4.5" grinder. You need a 1/16" thick metal cutting blade and the two nuts. We call them metabo nuts. 


Please be careful and wear safety glasses at a minimum. Cut straight and let the weight of the tool cut through the metal don't force weight on it. If it gets in a bind and damages the blade swap it out for a new one. They are dangerous.

Only use a 1/8" thick blades or more to grind.


----------



## BlueSea (Aug 7, 2013)

I cut aluminum door frames all the time with an 80 count carbide blade in my mitre saw,
But I would recommend a 12" abrasive blade cut off saw for 1/4" thick square tubing.
Nice square cuts too. we use them for metal studs all the time up to 14 gauge thickness, and it will cut up to 3/8" material no problem


----------



## Blk Jck 224 (Oct 16, 2009)

chumy said:


> I've cut 100's of tin sheets using a worn out carbide tip wood blade put on backwards. I'm not saying it's the safest or best way. It's just the way we used to do it.
> have a good day!


I'm sure you have done many things bass ackwards...Jus Sayin.


----------



## chumy (Jul 13, 2012)

GMTK said:


> Wow, had no idea.
> 
> I also have a 4 1/2 inch angle grinder. Can I swap a blade on that and use it to cut?
> 
> http://www.sears.com/craftsman-4-1-...1x000001&kpid=00924542000&kispla=00924542000P


With all due respect, you are confused, unless somebody makes a wood blade for your 4-1/2" grinder.

You better just use the correct tool for the job.


----------



## BigTim (Dec 3, 2006)

*Blades*

Get a Diablo-Demon ferrous metal cutting blade at Northern Tool. They run about $60.00


----------



## Ducksmasher (Jul 21, 2005)

duh, plasma cutter


----------



## chumy (Jul 13, 2012)

Blk Jck 224 said:


> I'm sure you have done many things bass ackwards...Jus Sayin.


Yes i have, it's quite common for ingenious people.


----------



## Blk Jck 224 (Oct 16, 2009)

chumy said:


> Yes i have, it's quite common for ingenious people.


Most of us simply refer to y'all as special. :spineyes:


----------



## acoastalbender (Jul 16, 2011)

chumy said:


> You can cut thin metal by putting a standard wood blade on backwards.
> Wear yoursafety glasses!!


and make sure your health insurance is up to date...



chumy said:


> I wasn't joking.


now *that's *funny...

.


----------



## dwilliams35 (Oct 8, 2006)

chumy said:


> With all due respect, you are confused, unless somebody makes a wood blade for your 4-1/2" grinder.
> 
> You better just use the correct tool for the job.


 Why would he need a wood blade to cut metal? Given that he's already got it, that's probably the best thing to use: just get a cutoff blade as has been mentioned and get to it.


----------



## Slip (Jul 25, 2006)

I do it often using a cheap carbide tip blade and not backwards, but have used it backwards in past also. Be sure to use safety glasses no matter how you do it. Not regular glasses, but safety glasses only!


----------



## acoastalbender (Jul 16, 2011)

GMTK said:


> I have a 10 inch blade craftsman mitre saw and was wondering, if I switch out the blade, if it can be used to cut metal. I need to cut 90 metal stair balusters that are about 1/4 inch square and hollow. Read some posts online saying cutting metal would burn up the bearings in the saw, but those articles dealt with cutting rebar.
> 
> Will it hurt the saw and what type blade should I use I it won't hurt the saw?


I'm a little confused...1/4in square and hollow tube...if the wall was just 1/16 in. thick the hollow would only be 1/8in...that's nothing. Those dimensions seem a little light for stair balusters...is the hollow part inside maybe 1/4in? Well, the important thing is you did right and came on a fishing site to get the help you need...

Seriously, the most important piece of info has been left out here, that being what type metal are the balusters made of? If aluminum you probably will be ok. If you could mix a little water soluble oil (5%) with water in a spray bottle that would help. Get a solid grip on the handle and pull down *slow and steady.* If it's some kind of steel the surface speed of the 10in blade is way too fast...(the circumference of the blade where the teeth are...at 4000rpm's would be somewhere north of 10000fps...that's 2 miles of blade every minute.) If you can find a really small blade to put on that miter saw it would help a great deal. Have you ever seen a vertical or horizontal saw cut steel? The blade is moving on average about 200fps for a reason...friction/heat. You can rub two sticks together and get a fire lit. Imagine the heat output of two metals rubbing together? (mat'l/blade) That 10in blade would be running 50X faster than what anyone who knows better would run it and it will be no time at all before that blade will lose it's temper and or heat treat and be ruined. Be careful what ever you do...

.


----------



## dwilliams35 (Oct 8, 2006)

acoastalbender said:


> I'm a little confused...1/4in square and hollow tube...if the wall was just 1/16 in. thick the hollow would only be 1/8in...that's nothing. Those dimensions seem a little light for stair balusters...is the hollow part inside maybe 1/4in? Well, the important thing is you did right and came on a fishing site to get the help you need...
> 
> Seriously, the most important piece of info has been left out here, that being what type metal are the balusters made of? If aluminum you probably will be ok. If you could mix a little water soluble oil (5%) with water in a spray bottle that would help. Get a solid grip on the handle and pull down *slow and steady.* If it's some kind of steel the surface speed of the 10in blade is way too fast...(the circumference of the blade where the teeth are...at 4000rpm's would be somewhere north of 10000fps...that's 2 miles of blade every minute.) If you can find a really small blade to put on that miter saw it would help a great deal. Have you ever seen a vertical or horizontal saw cut steel? The blade is moving on average about 200fps for a reason...friction/heat. You can rub two sticks together and get a fire lit. Imagine the heat output of two metals rubbing together? (mat'l/blade) That 10in blade would be running 50X faster than what anyone who knows better would run it and it will be no time at all before that blade will lose it's temper and or heat treat and be ruined. Be careful what ever you do...
> 
> .


 On the other hand, you've got the metal cutting circular saws: the whole principle there is that it leaves most of the heat in the chips: they come out scorchin', but the base metal around the kerf is relatively cool. One way or another, heat's definitely the controlling factor. That's one of the problems with using standard carbide wood blades: if you don't stop to let it cool down, you can get it hot enough to melt the solder/brazing that holds in the carbide inserts: you DON'T wanna get hit with those when they come off the saw..


----------



## kneekap (Nov 13, 2012)

I would get a metal cutting chop saw at HF.


----------



## wacky-worm (Mar 10, 2008)

I bought a cheap chop saw at a little tool show a few years ago. Cost about $30. I bought a couple of metal cutting blades and have cut all the way up to 3" pipe making deer stands. I just cut slow. The saw came with an extra set of brushes. It's a cheap saw but has worked out great for what little I do. I wish I would have bought 2.


----------



## KJON (May 1, 2006)

portaband, done


----------



## MRussell (Mar 19, 2010)

I cut them all the time with a 357! Then file the rough edges down.


----------



## GMTK (Sep 8, 2008)

To clarify. The balusters are hollow, here is the description on them:

44-in Classic Tubular Powder-Coated Wrought Iron Single Basket Baluster

Square smooth 1/2" bar stock (hollow)
44" hollow bar (tubular series)
Single basket with double twist
Satin black finish
Balusters can be cut to length by trimming bottom of the baluster with metal cutting tool
Hollow iron balusters are easier to cut and install and as strong as solid (tubular family)
Was looking at something like this from HF to cut them:

http://www.harborfreight.com/120-Volt-3-High-Speed-Cut-Off-Tool-68523.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiNzQxNDE2ODAiLCJza3UiOiI2ODUyMyIsImlzIjoiMTkuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk%0D%0AIjoiODQwNiJ9%0D%0A&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=4013a&utm_source=1010

3 inch high speed cut off tool.

Would the above took work?


----------



## CoastalOutfitters (Aug 20, 2004)

ok , so these are deff. metal

3" cutoff will work , but you are go thru a bunch of blades

dunno if this a one time job for you or not, but steel supply here locally sells them precut, might research that options

you need to set up a jig to make the repetitive cuts equal,

if you want to do it right over the long haul buy a band saw or makita metal chop saw 

you can cut several at one time if you brace them well, and be done with it


----------



## GMTK (Sep 8, 2008)

This is a one time job, at my own house. The ballusters will vary in length, due to the how the stairs are arranged. I'm still probably going to end up driving to my uncles, just looking for alternatives...


----------



## Smackdaddy53 (Nov 4, 2011)

A grinder and a met cutoff wheel will cut those easily

http://www.fishingscout.com/scouts/SmackDaddy


----------



## KIKO (Oct 24, 2006)

With a segmented universal diamond blade would get the job done, but go slow.


----------



## Wado (May 15, 2011)

You would have to use an extremely fine tooth blade if I am reading this right. Quarter inch tubing, square? The hooks on a sixty tooth would likely grab it and throw it out of the saw. Yes to the band saw, no to the miter saw.


----------



## acoastalbender (Jul 16, 2011)

GMTK said:


> To clarify. The balusters are hollow, here is the description on them:
> 
> 44-in Classic Tubular Powder-Coated Wrought Iron Single Basket Baluster
> 
> ...


That Harbor Freight tool for 25 bucks looks like the tool you need...no teeth to get hung up on thin walled tubing. Do you have a bench vise? You can mark your balusters and put them in a vise between a couple of pieces of 1X with your mark close to the wood. That composite wheel on the HF tool looks like it could even last through the whole job.......do wear safety glasses...

.


----------



## GMTK (Sep 8, 2008)

So I started the project and decided to cut them all by hand with a hack saw. Not every balluster was going to be the exact same length, so a mass cutting wouldn't work. Started cutting with my dad's old hack saw and it took forever. Averaged about 3 minutes to cut one balluster. Did the first 32 (of 90) and took a break and went to Lowes. Bought some new blades and holy cr4p, what a difference. Can now cut one in about 20 seconds. Mad at myself for not getting a new blade to start with. 3 blades for $4. Best $4 I ever spent.


----------



## acoastalbender (Jul 16, 2011)

GMTK said:


> So I started the project and decided to cut them all by hand with a hack saw. Not every balluster was going to be the exact same length, so a mass cutting wouldn't work. Started cutting with my dad's old hack saw and it took forever. Averaged about 3 minutes to cut one balluster. Did the first 32 (of 90) and took a break and went to Lowes. Bought some new blades and holy cr4p, what a difference. Can now cut one in about 20 seconds. Mad at myself for not getting a new blade to start with. 3 blades for $4. Best $4 I ever spent.


Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it....work smarter, not harder...

.


----------

