# Car audio guys or gals



## Dead Wait (Mar 8, 2005)

I've got some questions that i'd like to ask if there any guys or gals on here with some car audio experience. I'm not sure if i'm posting this in the right section but, it will be me doing the DIY. Thanks.


----------



## jared07 (Apr 3, 2011)

I've tinkered a little


----------



## JFolm (Apr 22, 2012)

I have as well. However, I'm not up to date on equipment or anything.


----------



## Dead Wait (Mar 8, 2005)

Well, we'll give it a shot then. First off, this is going in my 08 F250 crew cab. NO power back window. 

I'm wanting to remove the factory stereo, install an Alpine stereo that RCA jacks for the speaker connections. I also want to use the factory speakers in the truck but, I don't want to overpower them with the amp. 

The stereo also has an RCA jack for a Subwoofer. I am really only interested in installing just one Sub. I'm not interested in rattling the paint off my truck. This is just for my enjoyment inside the truck. This is NOT a competition setup.

With that said. Aftermarket stereo, factory speakers in the doors, amplifier, Precision Power PCX440 to be exsact, and one sub. I'm thing a 12". 

So, this is what I have to work with. Is this doable? Thanks.


----------



## Castaway2 (Aug 8, 2013)

make your sub a 10" they will provide a cleaner thump that is not over powering, as for your stock door speakers they should get wired in to the head unit not off the AMP, you should have no worries about blowing them out. have your amp set to low pass and connect to the 10 " sub this will allow only the BASS to go through the sub. 

qty2 10" subs would sound great in that truck, make sure they are at least 400 watts subs, a 400 watt amp will push these well enough for what i believe you are looking for. also bridge the amp to the subs this allows all the power to go to the sub and not split between the 2 or only half power going to one (if you go with only one) 

i installed a lot of systems back in my younger days (not that i am overly old 32) 
i currently have 2 8" Bazokka tubes in my single cab with a 400 watts AMP, makes willie nelson sound like your at his concert. i also changed out my rear and door speakers with 3 way speakers. 

if you cahnge out the factory door speakers make sure to get at least 3 way speakers, it wil provide a very crisp high. 

best of luck 

if your on the north side and need help installing let me know. Glad to help


----------



## jas027 (Feb 1, 2013)

Run the factory door speakers off the head unit. All it take is the proper wiring harness you can buy anyhwere. This makes it a plug an play install. 

For the sub. Since you have a 4 channel amp you might want to look into running two subs (you can bridge your 4 channel amp down to 2 channels). 

Judging by the specs on that amp it really is made to run mids, highs and not really subwoofers. I would probably sell that amp and get a 2 channel amp that you can bridge down to 1 channel.


----------



## Dead Wait (Mar 8, 2005)

So, if I understand you right. I can keep the amp and use it for the four factory speakers, bye another amp an 2 subs?


----------



## andre3k (Dec 3, 2012)

If you're changing all of that out you are limiting yourself by keeping the factory speakers. 

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk


----------



## Dead Wait (Mar 8, 2005)

Castaway2, I somehow overlooked your post. That all makes good since. Just exsactly what i'm looking for. The only reason I decided to pass on the door speakers was because I didn't want to got through the hassel of trying to remove the door panels.


----------



## KillaHookset (Jan 6, 2005)

Reading what you have, it sould like you do not have a powered head unit if it only has RCA out and no speaker wires out means no internal amp. You will have to connect it to an amp to get any sound out to your speakers.

Run 4 gauge power wire from battery with 50 amp fuse to the amp.

Your factory speakers are gonna be really cheap flimsy paper cone garbage you will be 500% better sounding that OE speakers even with a set of $59 coaxial or 3 way speakers for the doors. To find out what size fits get on Crutchfield.com and it will tell you what will work. If your in Houston for the best pricing go down off Harwin find a wholesaler and buy your speakers, wires, connectors and whatever else you need or Ebay even Amazon but not from your local stereo shop unless you like wasting $$$.

10" sub will give you the tight midbass bump like a kick drum. It will fill out the upper 2/3's of the audible sound spectrum but you will probably be better off running a single 12" in the proper sized box. I rand a similar setup in my last car and it sounded fantastic.

That amp is an old one, but should work fine, its a 40w x 4 @ 4 ohms it will work great for the 4 door speakers and the built in crossover will work. Even connected to the OE speakers it will sound much better just be careful with the gain and crossover you do not want to overdrive your factory speakers they will distort without even trying and you will smoke them very easily, they are probably driven 3w-5w max from the factory head unit.

For the sub you will probably need a second sub amp, unless this amp will support the rear channel to be bridged and if so check if it is stable at 2 ohms find out before you buy your sub. if its rear is 2 ohm stable bridge buy a 2 ohm sub. If not buy/find sub amp that is 2 or 1 ohm stable and buy sub to match either single dual voice coil wired correctly. 

Pick speakers and a sub with higher sensitivity ratings around 94+ since your limited on power with this amp and want to get the most bang for your buck pick higher rating so they will be louder with less power input.

Pay no mind to the power ratings on you speakers and amps, they are way overinflated anyways. Look at the RMS power of your amp and sensitivity of the speakers to make the most of it. For year ago in my competition truck I ran a 4x25w amp on my mids and highs


----------



## KillaHookset (Jan 6, 2005)

You should be able to find a halfway decent sub, box, and sub amp for $100 here is an example
http://houston.craigslist.org/ele/4180278865.html


----------



## Dead Wait (Mar 8, 2005)

Great advice KillaHookset. I guess the door speakers are a must. Why waste the time on going part way? So, the Kenwood KFC-c6894ps 6"x8"s look really good. They have some really good reviews. Amazon carries them in pairs for around $50. 

So, the amp I already have should cover the door speakers. I just need another for a good sub or two.


----------



## Castaway2 (Aug 8, 2013)

Dead wait,

dont let those panels stop you, they are generally held on the door by a couple of clips and 2-3 screws, it is easy and if you break a clip no worry they are pennies on the dollar at high low/autozone. To give you a price idea i just put 4 spekaers in my truck as i blew the others over the last 7years the two door speakers are 3-way kenwoods that ran about $80 and the rear 2 are 4x6 2-ways for $50. It is not completely necessary to replace them but the 3 way will make it crisp as it is seperating your highs (treble) from your lows (bass). 
Like i said earlier if you would like a hand let me know. A complete installation of amp subs and head unit should only take a couple of hours and a couple of beers to get installed. The speakers if you chose to replace are approximently a 30 minute job as well. 

Best of luck if you have questions let me know, i have done alot of installations


----------



## Castaway2 (Aug 8, 2013)

Dead wait,
also make sure you get the size speakers that go with the truck to prevent modifactions to the holes are ready in place (ie a 6x9 will not fit were they had a 4x6 etc)


----------



## Dead Wait (Mar 8, 2005)

PM'd you Castaway2.


----------

