# reloading costs



## surfgrinder (May 18, 2008)

after getting over the initial investment - how much does it roughly cost to reload a box of 20 - 270win with a barnes triple shock bullet?


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## flymost (Nov 6, 2006)

*Costs*

Easy to figure out, just have to estimate how many shots you are going to get out of your brass. Forgive me for some quick math in public but here is a wag:

50 rds of brass at $25 used 5 times = $.10 per round
100 primers at $3 = $.03 per round
50 bullets for $25 = $.50

Looks like about .63 per round or $12.60 a box off the top of my head.


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## CoastalOutfitters (Aug 20, 2004)

powder


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## Screeminreel (Jun 2, 2004)

When you state initial investment, are you referring to the cost of equipment to load with? Do you already have the powder, and primers, you want to use chosen? I am taking it for granted you already have cases? Then you might try this and see, http://www.handloads.com/calc/loadingCosts.asp


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## surfgrinder (May 18, 2008)

i have everything except - primers, powder, brass, and bullets. I shoot a 270win and at times can get excellent accuracy with factory ammo. Shooting Hornady's i can get about 15 or so withing an inch but will have about 5 that go wild and are about 3" away by themselves. Problem is i am just not getting the groups that i think i can with hand loads. Any info is appreciated.


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## horned frog (Nov 9, 2008)

Powder costs about $30 for 1 pound = 7,000 grains.


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## horned frog (Nov 9, 2008)

Should be able to load around 125 rounds of .270 ammo with a pound of powder at a cost of 20-25 cents per round.


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## catchysumfishy (Jul 19, 2008)

If you don't have any fireformed casings for that particular rifle then you will have to figure double the cost on the first batch! That is Only if you plan to fireform!


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## THE JAMMER (Aug 1, 2005)

First of all you will NEVER get over the initial investment, because there will always be new hardware you will want to have: electronic scales and measuring devices; electric case trimmers, electric trimming stations, precision seating dies, etc.

As I have said before the actual cost per round will be cheaper as has been cited very accurately by some above. However to totally amortize the cost of all the STUFF, will take the majority of your lifetime.

However the pleasure and sense of satisfaction you feel after a great session at the range is priceless. Yesterday was one of those days for me. I'll post more details later, but I was working on 110 gr barnes TTSX's in 7mm-08 and 308, and got some smoking results. Usually if a range session yields ONE good load, it's a great day. Yesterday yielded a bunch.

Bottom line, go for it. Awesome hobby,

THE JAMMER



surfgrinder said:


> after getting over the initial investment - how much does it roughly cost to reload a box of 20 - 270win with a barnes triple shock bullet?


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## Screeminreel (Jun 2, 2004)

surfgrinder said:


> i have everything except - primers, powder, brass, and bullets. Problem is i am just not getting the groups that i think i can with hand loads. Any info is appreciated.


 In the years I have loaded for the .270 a couple of powders have really shined when it came to performance, while there are quite a few that will work and work good, overall either of the 4350's and H-4831 have outdone the rest. There is plenty of load data available for them and they are usually easy to find on the shelves. For cases, pick a flavor and go with it, for the most part your rifle will shoot the best with a particular powder weight no matter what the case brand is. The .270 hasn't shown me a bit of issues when it came to which brand cases. For the record I shoot Fed, Rem, Win, and Hornady, with a couple hundred Frontier thrown in for good measure. They all shoot the same load great from my rifle. Primers have been Winchester LR for 90% of my loads simply due to I have never had an issue with them and they were always available. I use them in everything. I have also used some CCI and a few Remington simply to try them out or for specific loads. I have never seen a need or used any magnum types for this round. Bullets have been spread across the board on brands and weights. I shot one for a while and changed just to have something different to try. Again, I have not found the .270 to be overly finicky with regards to brands or weights. I think that has been more of a personal issue than accuracy from any I have tried. When I rotate around to shooting mine, I usually shoot several hundred rounds easily through the year simply practicing and hunting hogs. I used to use the higher priced bullets but found a couple of deals on blems and Remington CL's. I have been shooting them for the past 5-6 years with now issues on game, simply put it on the shoulder, drop the hammer, and get to skinning. When your working up your loads keep the velocity at or below 3000fps and you will find it will do everything you ask for and usually with very good results. Good luck


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## prarie dog (Feb 28, 2011)

Surfgrinder, I look at the cost of handloading in terms of what not doing it can cost you. If you can afford it, do it. If you've hunted much with factory ammo and average rifles you have to have missed a good one and wonder why. Developing loads for your rifle will make it as good as it can be and if it's a good rifle and you miss you'll know who to blame. The 270 is very easy to load for. Screeminreel's recomendations are right on the nut with my own experience.


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## THE JAMMER (Aug 1, 2005)

Here are the numbers:

1. Rock chucker press $200
2. RCBS prep center $158
3. RCBS chargemaster $425
4. RCBS electrice case trimmer $360
5. Comparator kit $50
6. bullet puller $20
7. case vibrator/cleaner $105
8. hand primer $50
9. Precision mic $65 per calliber
10. Calipers $60
11. Dies $50 per caliber
12. funnels, ammo boxes, $100 
trays, and other access
13. Kencraft reloading bench $500

total $2143

If you save $10 per box by reloading: 2143 divided by 10 = 214 boxes x 20 rounds/box= 4280 rounds

You need to shoot 4280 rounds to amortize your equipment and break even.

That's shooting 50 rounds, once per month for over 7 years.

Better start shooting.

I know that a new reloader can get by with less than the above inventory of gear, and some of the prices are different (I just looked at my bench and estimated, and really didn't cover all the stuff I have there). I also know that as you get into it, you *WILL WANT* and will add some of those gadgets.

Bottom line, Better start SHOOTING.

Saving money is NOT the primary reason for reloading.

THE "STILL AMORTIZING MY EQUIPMENT" JAMMER


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## Ernest (May 21, 2004)

For low volume applications, an arbor press and wilson dies will produce excellent ammo. The dies are more costly, but you can set up an arbor press anywhere - including the range and thereby avoid some bench expense. Similarly, for low volume, a regular scale is not that big a hassle to use to weigh each load.

In the old days, we loaded blasting ammo in .357 using simply a dipper which threw the right charge of red dot. 

So, it can be as expensive or as cheap as you want to make it. 

But, you get to shoot so much more.


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## Screeminreel (Jun 2, 2004)

Jammer, 

that's a pretty well established set up for a beginner. Most would choose the package deal for around $350 or so if smart. Even adding a trimmer to that can be around a hundred depending on which one. 

For many years I loaded off a Well's press, used a set of Lee scoops, and an old Wells scale. None of it was top end my any stretch, but it loaded some darn good ammo. 

It also depends on what your loading as well. For a .270 Win, yep it's going to take a while depending on what your loading. However even loading Accubonds, you can still beat the $40/20 price tag, by a fair margin. Then if you load for something like a 41 Mag, or 454 Casull you can chunk away at the initial cost pretty quick loading 50 rounds for $25 verses 20 rounds for $40. 

You are however right, if you don't shoot enough per year to warrant it, your simply better off picking up 10 boxes of factory all the same lot and sighting in and being done with it.


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## THE JAMMER (Aug 1, 2005)

Screeminreel said:


> Jammer,
> 
> that's a pretty well established set up for a beginner. Most would choose the package deal for around $350 or so if smart. Even adding a trimmer to that can be around a hundred depending on which one.
> 
> ...


C'mon Screemin,

Where in that post did I say that was a beginner set up. I said it can be done for a bunch cheaper, but that most people, as they get into it, start to add some of the goodies. My list is my accumulation over about 30-40 years of doing it. Just trying to show what can eventually be invested in the hobby.

THE JAMMER


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## Screeminreel (Jun 2, 2004)

THE JAMMER said:


> C'mon Screemin,
> 
> Where in that post did I say that was a beginner set up. I said it can be done for a bunch cheaper, but that most people, as they get into it, start to add some of the goodies. My list is my accumulation over about 30-40 years of doing it. Just trying to show what can eventually be invested in the hobby.
> 
> THE JAMMER


Hey bud, I won't argue this point at all, just pointing out that a beginner need not spend a huge chunk of change to get started off. Some get into it, load a while and decide it really isn't worth it. Yea I know what 30 years will get ya in some cases, trust me I'm there and then some.

My point was, to simply load up some hunting rounds and keep enough on hand for practicing it don't need to break the bank, and it can be recouped fairly quick depending on how one goes about it.

Like Ernest said, it can be as cheap or expensive as you want it to be, or make it. You are also right, you need to shoot enough to appreciate what you have invested in.


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## Hbb6601 (Oct 12, 2010)

The big deal is getting to customize / tune a load for your rifle. The savings does really hit until the 2 time you reload the brass or if your lucky you saved old brass from shooting factory loads and you can use them.


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## B-Money (May 2, 2005)

Hbb6601 said:


> The big deal is getting to customize / tune a load for your rifle. The savings does really hit until the 2 time you reload the brass or if your lucky you saved old brass from shooting factory loads and you can use them.


I totally agree on the first part. The savings never hits me because I tinker with too many loads and I shoot too much.

If a person passed on RCBS and went with Lee equipement, he would only drop about $300 before he was able to chamber his first round.

** still think the LEE case trimmer and de-burr tool with a cheap drill is the easiest, cheapest, fastest bestest way to trim brass. To clean the primer pocket, I use the RCBS steel brush and the drill.


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