# Knife steel and blade shape question?



## TXDRAKE (Jun 24, 2004)

I have several hunting (cleaning/gutting/etc.) knives and a couple are my favorites and a couple others not so much and those are used as backups, but I am considering buying my brother a nice knife for hunting and wanting to get him a good all around knife for cleaning, gutting, boning, etc. So here's my questions:

I don't have a clue as to the types of steel that are best for a hunting knife as their are a ton of combinations out there and some that just say stainless, carbon, or Damascus but, most just have letter/number designations like some of the Knives of Alaska use a steel type called D2 Tool Steel and others are ATS-34 steel, 440A Stainless, T6Mov Stainless steel, 8Cr13MoV stainless steel, Sandvik Steel 12C27 and hardened to 57 -59 HRC, VG-1 Stainless Steel, Sandvik 13C26 Stainless-Steel, 420HC Stainless-Steel, AUS 8A stainless steel blade, AUS6 Stainless Steel, DIN 1.4116 ss, 1095 cro-van, Etc. 

There are also many shapes of blades (Drop-point, Upswept, Clip-point, Spear, Skinner, Trailing-point, Straight-point, spey, Etc.) and I know that some blade shapes are better for skinning and some better for gutting, etc. but I am wanting to get him a blade shape that is pretty much an all-around type (one that can handle most all the jobs of cleaning a deer) blade shape.

I basically am just wanting to pick your minds about what you think is the best of these combinations. Thanks, Jason


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## BIG PAPPA (Apr 1, 2008)

*well there's a couple*

















Here's the knife blade style i would get (but only because you added boning). if boning was not in your post, i would recommend a drop point blade style. and as long as it's 440c Cryogentically treated or better steel, his edge will last a long time.


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## BIG PAPPA (Apr 1, 2008)

*Here's my favorite blade style*









a slight drop point blade, which is by far, my personal Favorite style of
hunting blade. for boning, i would use a short fillet type knife with a stiffer blade than a regular fillet knife.
www.bulverdeknifeworks.com


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## davidb (May 10, 2006)

How much do you like your brother?

If he is the type that doesn't lose knives on a regular basis then I would get him something special.

I also like the drop point or semi skinner shape for field dressing.

Favorite steels are S30V, ATS34, 154cm and D2 but I haven't tried them all by any means.

If you look around you can get these at a reasonable price. Queen cutlery uses D2 and at a much more lower price than knives of Alaska but they don't have the newer designs. The Mora knives are inexpensive but with good Scandinavian steel. Victorinox also has good utility knives, I use their skinner and boning knife frequently.


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## boatlift (Jun 23, 2009)

I gave up all the standard knives after using the surgical scapel blade. I like them so much I started selling them. I can clean (2) deer & then have to change the blade out, you never have to sharpen a knife again, just change the blade. The only problem is that it's a scapel, one wrong move & you've got yourself a pretty good slice.

http://www.boatliftdistributors.com/Accessories-BLD-Knife/c37_94/index.html


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## coogerpop (Sep 3, 2009)

All of the steels mentioned are good....the heat treating is the key to how hard the steel is and how long the edge will last...If you go with a custom makerlike.Ruffin Johnson,Gordon Johnson,Bob Dozier.etc etc you will be getting many years of experience and high quality...they aren't cheap but they are a beautiful piece of workmanship/craftsmanship, that will be able to be handed down for years . There are many other custom maker,got to any of the local gunshows or look online.


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## deckh (Jul 23, 2010)

My two cents: Most of the knives I see for sale on several huntin' and fishin' forums are assembled from "store bought" blades. Knife supply houses sell hundreds of them. I grind and heat treat the knives I make. The old standby for stock removal(gringing) are 440c, ATS-34 and D2. These are high carbon stainless steels with the exception of D2. D2 has about 14% chromium content and to be considered stainless the steel should have about 17% chromium. Most store bought blades and knives are what I consider a lower grade of stainless such as 440A, 440B, AUS6 and AUS8. D2 is a tough and usable knife steel. Properly heat treated to RC 60 it is highly rust resistant. A blade of 3 1/2 to 4 inches is all one needs for deer size game. The dropped point blade made famous by Bob Loveless will do it all for deer size game.


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## Trouthunter (Dec 18, 1998)

I'm a knife junky and my favorite blade style for hunting purposes or just daily carry is the drop point and my favorite steel is Swedish tool steel; it just stays sharp.

Below are some examples...the first link is a knife that I had Travis make for me and I recommend him highly; he's an artist who makes his own blades and just keeps on getting better.

http://travisknives.com/?p=395

Here's an excellent example of a drop point hunter by Loveless...I had one and some bastage made me an offer for it that I couldn't refuse.

http://www.knifepurveyor.com/bob_loveless_lawndale_stag_drop_point_hunter_knife_1311.aspx

www.huntingblades.com gives a good definition of "drop point".

"The drop point hunting knife is an excellent design for the big game hunter. This design generally features a robust, curved blade of relatively thick steel. These features allow the user to cut the skin off the animal using the entire edge of the knife, rather than just the point. This allows for quick skinning and very little damage to the meat. The design of the drop point, also allows for other field cleaning tasks such as gutting and the splitting of the rib cage and pelvis, although a saw or hatchet is the preferred tool for the latter to tasks."

www.randallknives.com has the following to say about blade steel.

"_We feel that high carbon tool steel holds a better edge by about 10 percent and it's much easier to hone. Stainless, however, is more resistant to corrosion and staining, so it's generally the better choice for use in humid or saltwater conditions. Consider how frequently you'll use and hone your knife--and where you'll use it--then decide which material is best for you."_

I own six of Randall's knives and I can tell you that to me high carbon tool steel holds a better edge by about 20%.

So many makers so many knives and so little time.

TH


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## TXPalerider (May 21, 2004)

Drop point....hands down


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## brazman (Aug 22, 2006)

*Like this but cheaper...*



boatlift said:


> I gave up all the standard knives after using the surgical scapel blade. I like them so much I started selling them. I can clean (2) deer & then have to change the blade out, you never have to sharpen a knife again, just change the blade. The only problem is that it's a scapel, one wrong move & you've got yourself a pretty good slice.
> 
> http://www.boatliftdistributors.com/Accessories-BLD-Knife/c37_94/index.html


I too have made the switch to scalpel-type knives for cleaning large mammals. I got a Piranta after watching a couple a guys at Stoneledge Ranch cape out and quarter an axis and a blackbuck with, literally, surgical precision and expertise. The older of the two was guiding me when I shot my axis doe, and he told me that he'd cleaned 6 deer with the same blade before he did #7 the next day, all on the same blade! And when the blade dulls, pop it off and on with the next one. The replacement blades are really reasonable, especially considering you'll never have to sharpen one ever again. Check it out (I am in no way benefitting from endorsing these products, only a super satisfied customer.)
http://www.havalon.com/

And, oh my gosh, I just went to the site so I could cut and paste the link, and they've started selling fillet knifes in the same manner! I know what I'm getting for my birthday!:cheers:


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## boatlift (Jun 23, 2009)

brazman said:


> And, oh my gosh, I just went to the site so I could cut and paste the link, and they've started selling fillet knifes in the same manner! I know what I'm getting for my birthday!:cheers:


I just had to re-order from them yesterday & saw that. I ordered a dozen, my cost is $33.50 per filet knife..


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## Neck-deep (Jun 27, 2007)

Check out the Boker folders at the bottom of the pg here http://www.knifecenter.com/knifecenter/boker/indexfoldingknives.html. The boker hunter has 440-C steel in it and is my hunting knife of choice for now until I get another knife which will probably be the one below.

You can also look into Queen knives and you'll find some beautiful knives there as well with D2 tool steel which is very similar to s30v steel. I'd like to get this one soon http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/store_detail.html?s=QN44ACSB but I've already got like 15 different knives and just made a purchase yesterday on a Queen 3.5in Trapper.


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## TXDRAKE (Jun 24, 2004)

WOW!!! Thanks for all the suggestions, you guys rock!!! Yes, I do like my brother alot and since he just now really getting into hunting I figured I would get him something he could be proud of and something he could pass down!

P.S. Brad, don't freaking let the cat out of the proverbial bag, or I'm holding your favorite fake snake for hostage!!!


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## Woodrow (Jun 17, 2004)

How sturdy are those scalpel exchange-a-blades? I mean, can you cut through a rib cage with them safely?


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## TXPalerider (May 21, 2004)

TXDRAKE said:


> ........
> P.S. Brad, don't freaking let the cat out of the proverbial bag, or I'm holding your favorite fake snake for hostage!!!


I won't, I promise. Just don't hurt him. We've had a lot of fun together. 



Woodrow said:


> How sturdy are those scalpel exchange-a-blades? I mean, can you cut through a rib cage with them safely?


We'll soon find out. I ordered one from Havalon.

However, when I ordered it I didn't have any intention of using it to cut through a rib cage or break a pelvic bone. I just thought it might be great for skinning/caping. Besides, I never cut through the ribcage or pelvis unless I'm field dressing......which I seldom do.

I let you know my thoughts when it comes in.


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## brazman (Aug 22, 2006)

I've personally never tried to cut through a rib cage with this knife. Is there a reason you would try to do that? Seems if you need to harvest the ribs as part of the take from an animal, loppers or a bone saw would probably be the better way to go, unless you can maneuver the cartilage connecting the ribs along the breast bone and spine. This is not a hacking blade or a saw, but it is a meat/connective tissue LASER!

I guess you could cut the meat out between each rib.


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## TXDRAKE (Jun 24, 2004)

Hey Brazman,

I looked at the website and I'm thinking of ordering one as well and then I looked and saw several different type of blades and a couple of them seemed to me (IMO) to actually be a better blade type for skinning rather than the original blade that comes with the knife. Any insight into which or are the other blade types better or is the blade type that originally comes with the knife ok? Thanks, Jason


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## brazman (Aug 22, 2006)

Hey TXDrake,
Hmm, I really don't have much input to your question. I've only used and seen used the original blade that comes with the knife. What I can tell from the pics on the website is that the original blade that comes with it is probably the longest of the blade, at about 2 3/4" with the most cutting surface. The other blades are a bit shorter. I think it would boil down to whatever you're the most comfortable with and have the most confidence in. Maybe buy a small pack of several blades and try some of them out. All I can say with extreme confidence is that any blades you try will be like a lightsaber, and to be accordingly careful! 

Mmm, after looking again at the website, there might be some issues with which blades will fit which handles. Some of those smaller blades might only fit the TRACER model knife. Might ask a customer service rep or check the site again before you buy any.


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## TXDRAKE (Jun 24, 2004)

Thanks, Braz!


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## reelbusy (Feb 7, 2008)

My recommendation would be a Cutco hunting knife with serrated edge. Unbelievably, and dangerously sharp. They will cut through a deer brisket and pelvis if necessary. They will hold their edge for cleaning four or five deer. Send it back to Cutco with $6.00, and they will sharpen it like new. They also have a "forever guarantee"


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## wet dreams (May 21, 2004)

I've use a scapel for yrs, we had several different sizes and blade styles at the Taxidermy shop, I only use a big handled one (#8) with a autopsy blade (#60). The small handle with a #22-23 are the best for skining, the big handle might be a bit much for some but has a thicker blade. I first use a gut-hook then the scapell all the way....WW


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## 04TXAg (Jun 26, 2009)

I've used the Havalon for two years. Now the other three guys on our lease have it. Awesome knife! For ribs I use the Gerber Bypass pruner.


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## Chaz (Jan 23, 2005)

boatlift said:


> I gave up all the standard knives after using the surgical scapel blade. I like them so much I started selling them. I can clean (2) deer & then have to change the blade out, you never have to sharpen a knife again, just change the blade. The only problem is that it's a scapel, one wrong move & you've got yourself a pretty good slice.
> 
> http://www.boatliftdistributors.com/Accessories-BLD-Knife/c37_94/index.html


So how is it for cleaning fish? Can you do a redfish?


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## Katfisher (Dec 13, 2006)

All the stainless steels are about the same. The names differ because they are usually trade names of the mills that produce the steel. All are a martensitic structure which allows the steel to become hard through thermal heat treating. Two things to look for is a company that uses a thicker material and takes the extra step of cryogenically treating the steel. The best I found is Cutco. I have toured most of the big mfg. in this country and they have the best process IMO.


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## State_Vet (Oct 10, 2006)

I like D-2 for knife blades, although I will use O-1 tool steel sometimes as well.


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## Trouthunter (Dec 18, 1998)

> although I will use O-1 tool steel sometimes as well.


That's the good stuff. 

TH


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