# Barn/workshop/garage ideas/photos



## grayson (Oct 21, 2011)

I am planning to have a workshop/barn/garage type building built at my house. High ceilings - probably concrete floors, workbench area, be able to drive my RTV inside, store my hunting gear etc. I am not sure if metal or wood but want it insulated. I am open to ideas, pictures, etc. so anyone who has done these any help is appreciated. Thinking 20x40 but not sure if that is enough room


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## 4 Ever-Fish N (Jun 10, 2006)

Make it a single garage door, no post in the middle. Might consider a tall roof so you can have storage in the attic and be able to walk around. Go to the Garage Journal forum for tons of ideas. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## cubera (Mar 9, 2005)

Mine is 25' x 36'.
The reason I like mine is because it's divided into three sections already. Left bay is a dog kennel. Middle is for working on equipment. Right is my shop. With the uprights it was also easy to semi enclose my welding booth by just screwing some plywood to it.
With the uprights already in place it was easy to divide the bays and weld brackets on to them for shelving. Right and left bays have doors to the rear, right bay has entry door on the side.
Installed 3 years ago next month, right at $10k from TNT. Smooth concrete slab was extra.
I can post better pics tomorrow.


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## 4 Ever-Fish N (Jun 10, 2006)

This is the website I mentioned, http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/

If you have any doubt about 20x40 not being big enough, it probably isn't. I think mine is 24' x 30' and it's not big enough. 24' is the width but I wish I would have gone with 28' to allow for more storage, etc.

Also, make sure the slab is done properly with moisture barrier and is designed to help prevent foundation problems.


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## 98aggie77566 (Jul 7, 2009)

Just a few thoughts

1) build it as big as you can afford....you will find stuff to fill the space...and adding on later is a pita
2) overhead storage.....I have a single shelf around the top/sidewalls of my barn...about 9' up.....runs continuously almost the entire perimeter of the barn. It's amazing how much stuff you have that you seldom use, and it gets this stuff off the floor and out of the way.
3) airflow...make sure you have the doors positioned in a manner where you can take advantage of the prevailing wind in the summer to me....huge difference for creature comfort when you are working. Without airflow..mine would be an oven!


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## RLwhaler (Sep 10, 2005)

cubera said:


> Mine is 25' x 36'.
> The reason I like mine is because it's divided into three sections already. Left bay is a dog kennel. Middle is for working on equipment. Right is my shop. With the uprights it was also easy to semi enclose my welding booth by just screwing some plywood to it.
> With the uprights already in place it was easy to divide the bays and weld brackets on to them for shelving. Right and left bays have doors to the rear, right bay has entry door on the side.
> Installed 3 years ago next month, right at $10k from TNT. Smooth concrete slab was extra.
> I can post better pics tomorrow.


Nice! Would love to see how you set up your dog kennels.


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## grayson (Oct 21, 2011)

cubera said:


> Mine is 25' x 36'.
> The reason I like mine is because it's divided into three sections already. Left bay is a dog kennel. Middle is for working on equipment. Right is my shop. With the uprights it was also easy to semi enclose my welding booth by just screwing some plywood to it.
> With the uprights already in place it was easy to divide the bays and weld brackets on to them for shelving. Right and left bays have doors to the rear, right bay has entry door on the side.
> Installed 3 years ago next month, right at $10k from TNT. Smooth concrete slab was extra.
> I can post better pics tomorrow.


some pics of the inside would be awesome if you have any - very nice


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## grayson (Oct 21, 2011)

98aggie77566 said:


> Just a few thoughts
> 
> 1) build it as big as you can afford....you will find stuff to fill the space...and adding on later is a pita
> 2) overhead storage.....I have a single shelf around the top/sidewalls of my barn...about 9' up.....runs continuously almost the entire perimeter of the barn. It's amazing how much stuff you have that you seldom use, and it gets this stuff off the floor and out of the way.
> 3) airflow...make sure you have the doors positioned in a manner where you can take advantage of the prevailing wind in the summer to me....huge difference for creature comfort when you are working. Without airflow..mine would be an oven!


the airflow is great a idea I would not have thought of. The overhead storage is something I had planned on - thanks much


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## BretE (Jan 24, 2008)

Spears outta Oklahoma is building mine. 30X40 with a 10' overhang off the back. I'll post a pic of a friends that's the same. I've had two buddies use Spears and were pleased.....










Just like this but with two front garage doors...


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## grayson (Oct 21, 2011)

BretE said:


> Spears outta Oklahoma is building mine. 30X40 with a 10' overhang off the back. I'll post a pic of a friends that's the same. I've had two buddies use Spears and were pleased.....
> 
> 
> 
> ...


that looks great - so overhand is for parking boat etc ?


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## BretE (Jan 24, 2008)

grayson said:


> that looks great - so overhand is for parking boat etc ?


Plan on putting my boat, lowboy, Mule and small tractor in it. That's why I'm doing two doors on the front. Also doing a big door on the back and a regular door on the side.....10' overhang on back will be right on the lake.....


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## Sgrem (Oct 5, 2005)

I do shop lighting, giant fans, and vent turbines for those interested I hook up the 2cool family. Would be glad to analyze your project just to meet new people!


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## Wizness (Jun 15, 2011)

I have a detached garage 2 story 20x40 built on 10 ft studs. I can get my boat and some of the cars in there but its tight. Always go bigger than you think. I wanted two garages but the lot wouldn't fit it. Here's a pic. Also definitely get. Rear garage door. I love mine.



When it was getting built


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## muney pit (Mar 24, 2014)

Anyone ever use 5 star buildings?


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## grayson (Oct 21, 2011)

Wizness said:


> I have a detached garage 2 story 20x40 built on 10 ft studs. I can get my boat and some of the cars in there but its tight. Always go bigger than you think. I wanted two garages but the lot wouldn't fit it. Here's a pic. Also definitely get. Rear garage door. I love mine.
> 
> 
> 
> When it was getting built


I thought about having the backside garage door so you can just drive all the way through - makes sense if you have enough lot room


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## gregtx (Apr 5, 2010)

I did a 30x40 with a 12' lean along one side wall. I put in roll ups on both end walls and roll ups along the covered side wall. 
After much research, I found Five Star builders out of Conroe to be the best choice for my project. Their crews did a great job! Turn-key for everything (slab, materials, labor) was $23k.


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## captnickm (Feb 16, 2011)

gregtx said:


> I did a 30x40 with a 12' lean along one side wall. I put in roll ups on both end walls and roll ups along the covered side wall.
> After much research, I found Five Star builders out of Conroe to be the best choice for my project. Their crews did a great job! Turn-key for everything (slab, materials, labor) was $23k.


This is what I want someday. I like being about to open all the doors and get some air flow or close them all and puut in heaters.


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## 98aggie77566 (Jul 7, 2009)

captnickm said:


> This is what I want someday. I like being about to open all the doors and get some air flow or close them all and puut in heaters.


My barn does well with the cooling....opening up doors on either end and the airflow makes it comfortable even on a hot summer day.

Heating on the other hand is an issue:
- I have open ridge vents....not the ones that you can manually close
- with 14' sidewalls and no insulation...heating is tough

If you intend to heat....make sure you get ridge vents that you can close, and consider insulation.

I ran two heaters during a poker tournament last winter....burned through 2 bottles of propane in 3 hours......and it never brought the temp in the barn up by more than a few degrees. All the heat goes straight up and out.

Luckily heating is rarely a requirement on the coast.


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## cubera (Mar 9, 2005)

Kennel with run outside.

Middle bay, golf cart parking, equipment repair.

Shop side.

And as they say, never big enough. I had to have a carport put up to house the rest.


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## Rubberback (Sep 9, 2008)

Brete, you have a human door? I would get an auto door . I know because I lives in a barn.


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## ReelAttitude (Nov 10, 2010)

*My Boat Barn*

My husband built this "Boat Barn" for me to house my boat and tackle in. We opted to go with pea gravel and paver stones where the boat sits so we can flush the motor inside if need be. I installed rope lighting around the wood platform so when hit the remote door opener and I start backing in the light will come on, it helps to back in at night. I also installed a retractable light switch above the boat so I do not have extension cords laying all around the boat when I am charging the batteries.


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## OnedayScratch (May 23, 2012)

ReelAttitude said:


> My husband built this "Boat Barn" for me to house my boat and tackle in. We opted to go with pea gravel and paver stones where the boat sits so we can flush the motor inside if need be. I installed rope lighting around the wood platform so when hit the remote door opener and I start backing in the light will come on, it helps to back in at night. I also installed a retractable light switch above the boat so I do not have extension cords laying all around the boat when I am charging the batteries.


Now that's Snazzy right there. Thanks for sharing.


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## ReelAttitude (Nov 10, 2010)

*My Boat Barn*

Forgot to add, this is my favorite thing in there. He build a shelf with a door made of pegboard so I could hang all of my plastics/lures on the outside and have storage for everything else on the inside. I can also put the peg brackets on the inside of the door to help store even more of my stuff. There is a roller on the bottom of the door to help it swing out.


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## GulfCoast1102 (Dec 30, 2013)

ReelAttitude said:


> My husband built this "Boat Barn" for me to house my boat and tackle in. We opted to go with pea gravel and paver stones where the boat sits so we can flush the motor inside if need be. I installed rope lighting around the wood platform so when hit the remote door opener and I start backing in the light will come on, it helps to back in at night. I also installed a retractable light switch above the boat so I do not have extension cords laying all around the boat when I am charging the batteries.


Hands down, that is the slickest little boat barn i've seen! That is really nice!


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## poppadawg (Aug 10, 2007)

that's sweet


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## Mont (Nov 17, 1998)

The minimum dimension needs to be 30' and put big doors on 3 sides. 

Spray foaming it is a must do, and it's expensive. 

Don't put any roof vents in. The mud dawbers love those things. 

Use good doors. Again, expensive, but worth it. 

Mine has a packaged heating and cooling unit outside and a minimal amount of ductwork inside. You need to be able to clean shop HVAC equipment (like with a hose) and having it outside makes that a breeze. 

My doors are 10 by 10 which has been plenty and keeps the top of the roof at 13' or so. Much more than that, and you can't get to it inside very easily. 

I sloped the slab 3" or so, which has it's good side and bad side. Good side is you can hose it down. Bad side is things with wheels like level ground. That bump everyone puts inside their doors on the concrete (it's got a fancy name) is a PITA. I left mine off and love being able to roll dollies and everything else through my doors without hitting it. 

Most of all, be patient. It takes a while to get all the trades in and out. Tomorrow means next week and next week means next month. Next month is more like 60 days or 90 days with rain.


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## Rubberback (Sep 9, 2008)

I agree with Mont on the spray foam it will drop the heat about 10 to 15 degrees in the summer & help keep it warm in the winter. Dobbers are a problem. I've been working on my barndo for 10 years & still have more to do.


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## grayson (Oct 21, 2011)

Mont said:


> The minimum dimension needs to be 30' and put big doors on 3 sides.
> 
> Spray foaming it is a must do, and it's expensive.
> 
> ...


great info - thanks - if you foam will a window AC/heater unit do the job?


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## BretE (Jan 24, 2008)

Mont, I'm having big doors on the front and back. Why a big door on the side. I still have time to change mine....


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## Mont (Nov 17, 1998)

BretE said:


> Mont, I'm having big doors on the front and back. Why a big door on the side. I still have time to change mine....


To catch the wind when it blows the wrong way. Mine are north and south facing. I would love to have one facing east. It's a pain getting things in and out (and around the stuff inside) with only two doors. Three would make things much easier. I run engines inside a lot inside.

On the a/c question, there's no reason a window unit wouldn't work just fine. I put a 2.5 ton heat pump package unit on a 20 by 30 by 12ish. That's 30,000 BTU's. It would do a lot more with the foam. Be sure to watch the seal above the doors. I didn't catch that until after the door guys left and my seals still need to be installed. I have to get a lift to do it and want to do a couple of things to my RV cover while I have it. It's on my list still. I also had a ramp poured to the access (3 foot wide) door. Again, it makes rolling things like tool boxes in and out real easy. I roll mine out to the front from time to time, just depending on what I am working on. Welders, stuff on the dolly, and all that are things that go up and down it pretty regular.


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## Hotrod (Oct 11, 2006)

gregtx said:


> I did a 30x40 with a 12' lean along one side wall. I put in roll ups on both end walls and roll ups along the covered side wall.
> After much research, I found Five Star builders out of Conroe to be the best choice for my project. Their crews did a great job! Turn-key for everything (slab, materials, labor) was $23k.


This is pretty much exactly what Im gonna do. I want 14 ft main door in front, and the lean too on the side. Gonna make it a party/bar area, with french doors coming from the shop to that area. Im gonna do a 30x40 shop. Just waiting on my buddy that does concrete to finish up a few jobs. Im hoping to be done by Spring

.


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## grayson (Oct 21, 2011)

Mont said:


> To catch the wind when it blows the wrong way. Mine are north and south facing. I would love to have one facing east. It's a pain getting things in and out (and around the stuff inside) with only two doors. Three would make things much easier. I run engines inside a lot inside.
> 
> On the a/c question, there's no reason a window unit wouldn't work just fine. I put a 2.5 ton heat pump package unit on a 20 by 30 by 12ish. That's 30,000 BTU's. It would do a lot more with the foam. Be sure to watch the seal above the doors. I didn't catch that until after the door guys left and my seals still need to be installed. I have to get a lift to do it and want to do a couple of things to my RV cover while I have it. It's on my list still. I also had a ramp poured to the access (3 foot wide) door. Again, it makes rolling things like tool boxes in and out real easy. I roll mine out to the front from time to time, just depending on what I am working on. Welders, stuff on the dolly, and all that are things that go up and down it pretty regular.


if you have any pics that would be great


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## Rubberback (Sep 9, 2008)

I heat my shack with this!


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## 4 Ever-Fish N (Jun 10, 2006)

gregtx, really like the idea and looks of your lean-to. I will have to see if I have room between garage and house to do something like that.


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## 4 Ever-Fish N (Jun 10, 2006)

Rubberback, what are the things hanging on the wall of your garage that appear to have handles? What brand of wood stove do you have. We need a new one for the cabin.


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## Rubberback (Sep 9, 2008)

4 Ever-Fish N said:


> Rubberback, what are the things hanging on the wall of your garage that appear to have handles? What brand of wood stove do you have. We need a new one for the cabin.


Branding irons. I have a lennoxs stove. Its a grandview.


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## BretE (Jan 24, 2008)

Rubberback said:


> Brete, you have a human door? I would get an auto door . I know because I lives in a barn.


Yep, I'm putting a regular door on the north side with a concrete walkway to the back porch. Definitely having at least one of the big doors with an auto opener.....


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## BretE (Jan 24, 2008)

4 Ever-Fish N said:


> Make it a single garage door, no post in the middle. Might consider a tall roof so you can have storage in the attic and be able to walk around. Go to the Garage Journal forum for tons of ideas.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Why a single garage door? I have a boat and a lowboy I'll need to back in. Seems much easier with 2 doors......


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## Rubberback (Sep 9, 2008)

BretE said:


> Yep, I'm putting a regular door on the north side with a concrete walkway to the back porch. Definitely having at least one of the big doors with an auto opener.....


Yup! I didn't have a human door or auto best thing I ever did besides plenty of insulation but I live in my shack. Good move Brete. I have a back door with no auto but I hardly ever use that door. I'm starting to like the barndo life. It just takes time & money. I'm getting close to the finished product. 10 years later. Putting in the main ingredient as we speak " The Bar"


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## dwilliams35 (Oct 8, 2006)

I did a 30x40, rollup doors on N&S: if there's any wind at all, no matter what direction, I get some significant air movement through it. I guess it just doesn't blow due east or due west much here..

One other thing I'm glad I did is offset the doors: they're lined up with each other, but on one half of that 30' dimension. That way I get what is essentially a 15' wide drive-through on one half of the building and a 15 x 40 work area on the other, instead of just taking that drive-through out of the middle and having two much less "usable" spaces on either side. I added a wood-framed office/gun room/fortress of solitude in that open space without even thinking about intruding on that driveway: that'd be tough with only 10' on either side "clear" (assuming 10' wide doors) .. Plenty of room on either side of "drive-through" to open doors, run creepers around vehicles, etc, too.

Only problem with it is that after it being here 13 years, it just seems to get smaller every year. I'm adding on a 20 x 40 awning on one side now.


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## Johnny9 (Sep 7, 2005)

Built a 40L by 48W with 36 feet enclosed and a 12 foot porch on east side. North, south and 2 east garage doors in 2007. Should have made it even larger as Im running out of space


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## 4 Ever-Fish N (Jun 10, 2006)

BretE said:


> Why a single garage door? I have a boat and a lowboy I'll need to back in. Seems much easier with 2 doors......


I guess it depends on how wide each door is. If you have two 8' doors in the front with post between them, it doesn't leave room for error. I think it would be better to have a single 16' wide door, with no post. If your two doors are each 10' wide, that should be ok. Just my opinion.


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## Rubberback (Sep 9, 2008)

Two doors easy in & easy out no backing required.


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## 4 Ever-Fish N (Jun 10, 2006)

Rubberback said:


> Two doors easy in & easy out no backing required.


I must not be using the right words. When I'm talking about 1 door vs 2 doors, I'm referring to just the front end of the garage. Putting another door on the back end of the garage is a great idea. Like the pic below, 1 large door in the front. Put another in the rear if you plan on driving through.


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## BretE (Jan 24, 2008)

4 Ever-Fish N said:


> I guess it depends on how wide each door is. If you have two 8' doors in the front with post between them, it doesn't leave room for error. I think it would be better to have a single 16' wide door, with no post. If your two doors are each 10' wide, that should be ok. Just my opinion.


Definitely going with 10' doors. Should be much easier backing trailers in.....


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## BretE (Jan 24, 2008)

Mont, one more question. The lip at the entrance of the barn. Talked to my builder as I thought your idea of getting rid of it was logical. He said it was there to keep rain out. Any problems in your barn with moisture getting inside?


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## Rubberback (Sep 9, 2008)

Don't mean to cut in front of Mont's response but I had moisture in my barn until I insulated it. Now, no moisture at all & warmer in the winter & cooler in the summer.


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## Rubberback (Sep 9, 2008)

Here's a view of my barn. It shows the carport I added, plus the human door I added & the eve over the human door. It also shows the roll up door. Directly behind the roll up door on the back of the barn is another roll up door just like the one in the front. 
The roll up door in the back has a dock so I can load & unload equipment onto a trailer.


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## Mont (Nov 17, 1998)

BretE said:


> Mont, one more question. The lip at the entrance of the barn. Talked to my builder as I thought your idea of getting rid of it was logical. He said it was there to keep rain out. Any problems in your barn with moisture getting inside?


Sorry for the delay. It's been busy getting caught back up from being off for the holidays. I have two sets of doors. The old barn (sliding) doors and the new roll up hurricane proof ones. At the bottom of the roll up doors, there's a rubber seal that works great. The pic was during the pour. My shop started out as a barn, and it's held down by 6 giant round footings (like 2 feet wide by 6 feet deep). We poured the floor in during the conversion. Mine's nothing fancy and not nearly as nice as some of the other ones, but it works good for me. I like having my shop apart from the house. I can saw, cut, grind, crank up engines and anything else I want to do out there without disturbing anyone in the house.


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## BretE (Jan 24, 2008)

I'm doing insulation, just not the blown in stuff yet...


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## Mont (Nov 17, 1998)

BretE said:


> I'm doing insulation, just not the blown in stuff yet...


I have been working on mine a year and just did things one step at a time, cash. I just finished wiring the a/c controls. Just a heads up on spray foam. That stuff sticks to anything, even air. Masking tape and plastic are your best friends. I would have never believed the difference it makes if I hadn't experienced it. It kills sound, keeps out bugs and makes the whole structure more rigid.


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## BretE (Jan 24, 2008)

Thx Mont...I like the clean look with no lip and no bumps backing stuff in....


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## BretE (Jan 24, 2008)

Mont said:


> I have been working on mine a year and just did things one step at a time, cash. I just finished wiring the a/c controls. Just a heads up on spray foam. That stuff sticks to anything, even air. Masking tape and plastic are your best friends. I would have never believed the difference it makes if I hadn't experienced it. It kills sound, keeps out bugs and makes the whole structure more rigid.


I may add it later but I have a house going up next to it and a budget....


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## topgun72 (Apr 30, 2013)




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## sea hunt 202 (Nov 24, 2011)

I would do a roll up door with a jack shaft opener, have an over head I beam with a chain hoist to change out out heavy stuff-like a boat motor or a motor in your rat rod. Ample elect outlets, water, a small full bath, heat and ac, and possibly a futon in case you get in trouble with your spouse. Congratulations on a cool build


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## Gottagofishin (Dec 17, 2005)

We bought and old house and restored it. The original carriage house had been converted to a small two car garage that you couldn't get a truck in. It would hold the Porsche and Mrs GGFs car. My poor truck had to live under pecan trees for a year. 

When we did the restoration we built a separate 3 car garage that will hold three Superduty cc long beds if you want, and converted the carriage house to my workshop. I like having them in separate buildings. That way workshop dust doesn't trash the cars.


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## grayson (Oct 21, 2011)

a lot of great ideas Thanks


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## BretE (Jan 24, 2008)

sea hunt 202 said:


> I would do a roll up door with a jack shaft opener, have an over head I beam with a chain hoist to change out out heavy stuff-like a boat motor or a motor in your rat rod. Ample elect outlets, water, a small full bath, heat and ac, and possibly a futon in case you get in trouble with your spouse. Congratulations on a cool build


I won't be doing any heavy lifting, just storing toys but I am having it plumbed for water and sewer. I like the idea of having somewhere to go without tracking up the house.....


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## Rubberback (Sep 9, 2008)

Rubberback said:


> Here's a view of my barn. It shows the carport I added, plus the human door I added & the eve over the human door. It also shows the roll up door. Directly behind the roll up door on the back of the barn is another roll up door just like the one in the front.
> The roll up door in the back has a dock so I can load & unload equipment onto a trailer.


If you look to the left of the garage door there is a big hoist. I can lift up equipment with this. The hoist is bolted down to 5 foot deep cement slab. The hoist will swing either direction. I use it mainly to work on my tractor. Sharping blades etc. This hoist is heavy duty steel & has a track similar to a railroad track. I can lift things no problem.


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## grayson (Oct 21, 2011)

Buddy does the spray foam insulation for a living and said it makes any structure multiple times stronger than without. Said the building will be last one standing after a storm due to the additional strength it adds - pulls all walls and ceiling together. Did it in my new home and love it


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## 98aggie77566 (Jul 7, 2009)

BretE said:


> Definitely going with 10' doors. Should be much easier backing trailers in.....


If you have room...go with 12x12 doors.

Even a 10' door doesn't leave much room on either side...and obviously the taller the better.

I originally had my barn drawn up with 10' doors....two on a 40' wide barn. Definately glad I went with 12'.


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## Rubberback (Sep 9, 2008)

I guess your asking me? I had the roof of my barndo done with sprayed on roofing. It will definately tighten up your building & never leak. Google it. Its very costly. There's two kinds of foam single cell & just regular foam I think its called double cell.
The single cell does not suck up water the double will. I did the bottom of my barn on the inside with single cell. This will make the barn stronger & it won't leak. Its just exspensive.
I have about 10 grand invested on the insulation of my barn. Reason I did it because I live in my barn. If I had it to do over I would do it again. My barn is tight, holds heat, stays cooler, won't leak & saves on the electric bill. I highly recommend spray foam on the roof. Like I said google it. Google will explain the process better than I can. The roof of the superdome is spray foamed. Good luck.


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## mas360 (Nov 21, 2006)

Did you do that spray foam yourself? 
I looked at this one and it shows only 1-inch thick foam with R-7 value costing $400 for 200 square feet.

http://www.sprayfoamkit.com/home-owners/residential-applications


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## Rubberback (Sep 9, 2008)

mas360 said:


> Did you do that spray foam yourself?
> I looked at this one and it shows only 1-inch thick foam with R-7 value costing $400 for 200 square feet.
> 
> http://www.sprayfoamkit.com/home-owners/residential-applications


No! Its quite a process. The roof is done with single foam & then a sealer caps it off. The sealer turns into a product that is just like the top of an igloo they also add an ingrediant in that reflects the suns rays. Its about 5 bucks a sq ft. As mentioned its costly but strengthens the building & will not leak. Google spray foam on the superdomes roof. I cant explain it correctly. Its a polyurathane product.
I totally recommend this on roofs of metal building. I had mine done about 4 years ago. They warranty it for 20 years. So, I'm good.


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## grayson (Oct 21, 2011)

Rubberback said:


> No! Its quite a process. The roof is done with single foam & then a sealer caps it off. The sealer turns into a product that is just like the top of an igloo they also add an ingrediant in that reflects the suns rays. Its about 5 bucks a sq ft. As mentioned its costly but strengthens the building & will not leak. Google spray foam on the superdomes roof. I cant explain it correctly. Its a polyurathane product.
> I totally recommend this on roofs of metal building. I had mine done about 4 years ago. They warranty it for 20 years. So, I'm good.


I actually used it on my office flat roof on the outside - has a 20 year warranty - it use to leak all the time and has been great since being installed 5-6 years ago


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## Wado (May 15, 2011)

This is a 30 x 30 with a 30 x 20 lean to. The front extension is 30 x 20. Fourteen foot sides and twelve foot nine inches at the lowest part of the lean to. I parked a thirty two foot trailer under the lean to but I sold it and that space is being made into a kitchen/bunk room at our ranch. I wish I had made it fifty by thirty inside, it's too small.


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## buckweet (Aug 8, 2011)

Holds all toys and good man cave.........
Have drawings if interested


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## grayson (Oct 21, 2011)

buckweet said:


> Holds all toys and good man cave.........
> Have drawings if interested


nice - any interior pics?


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## Buckerup (Feb 19, 2009)

Have you made a decision yet?


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## Buckerup (Feb 19, 2009)

An updates?


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## Buckerup (Feb 19, 2009)

Any updates?


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## Jeff SATX (Jan 18, 2011)

Wind for sure... Here I would have a southern facing door and northern door to let that breeze do its thing. Even at our shop at work, the main ware house has a East door and no outlet, it's 100 degrees, the main Bay has East and West doors, makes a huge difference even though it's not windward facing.


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## El Cazador (Mar 4, 2005)

This is our barndo at our ranch in Jim Hogg county and we've been working on it for 3 years. Our septic is in, our wiring is almost done and then we will be working on the plumbing and insulation this year. 
It is on a 40'x40' slab with a 40'x10' covered porch. It will have 4 10'x12' bedrooms, a small bathroom, kitchen and living area. Aside from the shell, we've done all of the work ourselves. The downspouts are lower than shown


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## Whiz (May 19, 2008)

Is this an open span, I-beam built building? Did you do the slab or was it included in the package? What was the total cost to do something like this?


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## Whiz (May 19, 2008)

Opps, got the picture of the inside after I sent the question, very nice. In all, what was the total cost for a building this size, looking to put one up in Manvel Tx.


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## Whiz (May 19, 2008)

Is this an open span, I-beam built building? Did you do the slab or was it included in the package? What was the total cost to do something like this? I am looking at building one in Manvel Tx. Just trying to get an Idea of the cost.


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## El Cazador (Mar 4, 2005)

The building was purchased from Accessible Buildings in Houston. It is 30'x40' enclosed, with a 10'x40' self supported porch cover; the cedar posts are not load bearing. 
There are no center columns, it has I-beams and purlins, and wind columns at each end.

The building was +/- $10000.00
45 yards of concrete was $4000.00
Labor for concrete and steel erection was $3700.00


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