# Backyard Bar!!



## Castaway2

well, i got tired of looking for a boat to rebuild so i decided to get started on another project, The Backyard Bar. had some birthday money sitting in my wallet, so i went to Lowes and got some lumber. Built the retangle frames thurs Night, and well the rest over the weekend. still have some work left but it is coming together nicely and fast i might add. I find the hardest part to be finding decent lumber! The wife wasnt sure at first but, by sunday evening she was asking me when i was going to get started on the cover. LOL. Well it's nothing over the top, hope yall enjoy or get ideas from it. the best thing is cost so far is under $160, and predicting the cover to run around $150. :brew2:


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## Castaway2

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## Castaway2

MORE>>>


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## chumy

Consider putting some metal under the legs so the 2x4's won't soak up water and rot. Looks good!


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## devil1824

That looks great!!


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## Castaway2

Thanks, guys! still in process, if any one has ideas on how to make a cover using the existing roof behind it. i am thinking of running rafters from the end of it out to a 2x6 which will be held up by one cornerpole and the existing corner. i am going to be using tin for the roof itself so it does not have to support to much weight. do you think i could use flashing tucked under the shigle to make sure water does not enter from the rear of the roof? and hit the bar tender on the back. and do youthink 2x4's would be good enough for the rafters (remember not trying to support alot of wieght just the tin going on top and maybe a declorative something or another hangin down from it ie surfboard)


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## Dead Wait

That looks pretty darn sweet.


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## Part Timer

As long as there is a little slope, the flashing will work fine. Thats how my brother did his and no leaks 3 years in. Looks Great though. Keep the pics coming.


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## finkikin

That is slick lookin! I'd drink at that watering hole anytime.


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## RB II

As far as the cover, you should be able to sneak it in under the existing fascia board and attach directly to the wall. I would suggest sliding it to the right, looking from the seating side, far enough to get beyond the valley/overhang from the existing porch on the left. You will probably run into clearance issues otherwise. 2x4 rafters on 4' centers with 2x4 lathe on 2' centers and some metal roofing should be good. Looks like stock 8' tin might work. The slope can be almost flat, but a 1to12 slope is fine (8" of slope in 8'). Put the rafters on 2' centers if you need a little extra strength. Use a 2x6 on the wall for your "nailer" on that end and metal joist hangers for the ends ofthe rafters. On the end over the bar, just extend the legs up through the bar top to the height that will work on that end. A 2x6 for a "top plate" on the downhill end, bolted to the vertical legs, should carry that little load easily. Let the rafters/metal overhang the bar top a foot or more to cover the chairs. The low end only needs to be 7' or so from the floor, no need for the full 8'. I would consider some angle brackets at the bottom, anchored into the concrete just so a good gust of wind doesn't tear it all up (or they make metal brackets for bottoms of posts. That will also keep those pink studs off of the wet concrete. Otherwise they will surely rot). That will give it that "bar" feel. Install some "palapa" grass around the edges and you are good.


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## Profish00

Why not treated wood?


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## Castaway2

Profish00 said:


> Why not treated wood?


my duaghter likes pink lumber...go figure girls, plus it is cheaper, the idea is to make the best thing within a reasonable budget, and in the end it all gets stained and sealed so i figured the treated wood would not stain as pretty. by using the pink studs for the main frame i saved around $10 which will be used somewhere else in the project (2x6x12 for the cover for example). the pink that is showing in the legs and on the sides will be cover by a stained and sealed 1x4 to match the rest.

so to quickly answere the ??? I bought the traeted part in a can (stain and sealer) to apply later for more beauty and saved money by doing so on the wood.


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## Castaway2

HydraSports said:


> As far as the cover, you should be able to sneak it in under the existing fascia board and attach directly to the wall. I would suggest sliding it to the right, looking from the seating side, far enough to get beyond the valley/overhang from the existing porch on the left. You will probably run into clearance issues otherwise. 2x4 rafters on 4' centers with 2x4 lathe on 2' centers and some metal roofing should be good. Looks like stock 8' tin might work. The slope can be almost flat, but a 1to12 slope is fine (8" of slope in 8'). Put the rafters on 2' centers if you need a little extra strength. Use a 2x6 on the wall for your "nailer" on that end and metal joist hangers for the ends ofthe rafters. On the end over the bar, just extend the legs up through the bar top to the height that will work on that end. A 2x6 for a "top plate" on the downhill end, bolted to the vertical legs, should carry that little load easily. Let the rafters/metal overhang the bar top a foot or more to cover the chairs. The low end only needs to be 7' or so from the floor, no need for the full 8'. I would consider some angle brackets at the bottom, anchored into the concrete just so a good gust of wind doesn't tear it all up (or they make metal brackets for bottoms of posts. That will also keep those pink studs off of the wet concrete. Otherwise they will surely rot). That will give it that "bar" feel. Install some "palapa" grass around the edges and you are good.


that was pretty much what i was thinking if i got all your technical wording correct, i do want to try and leave it butted up against the existing breezway and only use one upright on the open corner, thoughts on that ? . but i am not sure if the slope will allow it, as for the legs. they are going to end up capped off by 1x4 that is stained and sealed to get rid of the pink look and match the rest , if i stained and sealed the H*** out of the 4 pink 2x4's that are legs do you think the rot will still be an issue? 
i still have to cap off the ends of the bar going with tin to keep it uniform but saving that for last incase some items wont quite fit under neath i might need that access point to manuever.

as for the 8' tin your dead on i have tried to design everything to require the littlest effort of labor. (miscalculated the tin front by one inch in height but my tinsips didnt do to bad of a job.)

planning on installing micrwave, 2 burner gas grill already have the stove burner mounted not finalized yet though there will be acess to stereo and 2 12" floor speakers hidden inside as well.


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## Castaway2

Dead Wait said:


> That looks pretty darn sweet.


thanks dead wait, had to kill some time while i wait to install your system LOL 
please keep the coments coming i am in love with your avatar (hope its not your duaghter LOL)


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## Castaway2

Part Timer said:


> As long as there is a little slope, the flashing will work fine. Thats how my brother did his and no leaks 3 years in. Looks Great though. Keep the pics coming.


what i needed to hear probally the route i will end up going

and will do... trying hard to take as many as possible but you get to working and then oh **** i havent taken any pictures happens


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## RB II

Castaway2 said:


> that was pretty much what i was thinking if i got all your technical wording correct, i do want to try and leave it butted up against the existing breezway and only use one upright on the open corner, thoughts on that ? . but i am not sure if the slope will allow it, as for the legs. they are going to end up capped off by 1x4 that is stained and sealed to get rid of the pink look and match the rest , if i stained and sealed the H*** out of the 4 pink 2x4's that are legs do you think the rot will still be an issue?
> i still have to cap off the ends of the bar going with tin to keep it uniform but saving that for last incase some items wont quite fit under neath i might need that access point to manuever.
> 
> as for the 8' tin your dead on i have tried to design everything to require the littlest effort of labor. (miscalculated the tin front by one inch in height but my tinsips didnt do to bad of a job.)
> 
> planning on installing micrwave, 2 burner gas grill already have the stove burner mounted not finalized yet though there will be acess to stereo and 2 12" floor speakers hidden inside as well.


Man, I hate to tell you but as long as those pink studs touch the ground they will rot no matter how you try to seal or cover them. Spend the $10 that you saved on wood and buy some metal base plates that hold them off of the ground. Something like this:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-Z-Max-4-in-x-4-in-Uplift-Post-Base-ABU44Z/100375358

Or cut a piece of treated wood and nail to the bottom of the pink studs.


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## Castaway2

HydraSports said:


> Man, I hate to tell you but as long as those pink studs touch the ground they will rot no matter how you try to seal or cover them. Spend the $10 that you saved on wood and buy some metal base plates that hold them off of the ground. Something like this:
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-Z-Max-4-in-x-4-in-Uplift-Post-Base-ABU44Z/100375358
> 
> Or cut a piece of treated wood and nail to the bottom of the pink studs.


I'll check them out thanks!

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## RB II

There is another alternative on the roof. Extend the legs/supports straight up from the bar top and build a triangle support about on top of the supports. Make it 4' or 6' wide at the bottom of the triangle. Then cover that with palapa or tin. It will look similar to a long skinny rectangular umbrella (hard to describe here)over the top of the bar/seating area.


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## Castaway2

HydraSports said:


> There is another alternative on the roof. Extend the legs/supports straight up from the bar top and build a triangle support about on top of the supports. Make it 4' or 6' wide at the bottom of the triangle. Then cover that with palapa or tin. It will look similar to a long skinny rectangular umbrella (hard to describe here)over the top of the bar/seating area.


That crossed my mind but then if it rains your wet ( unusable) i diff mock up the first ideas i post in a few i think it will work out the best

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## Castaway2

the pink will be 2x8 2x4 rafters, just decided i better go 14 or even 16 foot span so everything stays dry as possible ( guest mostly if it rains) if 16 foot span might have to go to 2x10 fleet the face plate. 
Going to kill some varmints this weekend so pictures of progress to come soon

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## Castaway2

The slope i thinking about








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## RB II

Really no need to try and span that far. Just add a post in the middle of the bar. No one will ever notice. Make it a decoration/wrap it with rope, etc. it will result in more head space/smaller structural member across the top of the bar.

Note: Be sure to allow for the rise in the metal roofing as well as the lathe (boards between the rafters) when you lay out the top nailer on the wall. (make sure the nailer is low enough)


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## Castaway2

HydraSports said:


> Really no need to try and span that far. Just add a post in the middle of the bar. No one will ever notice. Make it a decoration/wrap it with rope, etc. it will result in more head space/smaller structural member across the top of the bar.
> 
> Note: Be sure to allow for the rise in the metal roofing as well as the lathe (boards between the rafters) when you lay out the top nailer on the wall. (make sure the nailer is low enough)


The rope rap was already in play ( great mind think alike) the span would be to cover the Legnth which is already 12' (bar lengthy) want to keep the ends dry for seating and i am afraid i would need a middle post, but think a cleaner look would be without it

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## Castaway2

*year later and time arose to finish up*

After almost a year, I finally got back at the Bar and have started on the cover, all due to a parenting Fail ( kiddo was out of school Monday and no one took off work so I quickly volunteered myself to the wife). Wanted to KISS (keep it simple stupid) so I went with a 16' span from one side to the other and a total of 8' out from the wall. I used 2x4 for both spanning members but am going to change out one in front for a 2x6 as the 2x4 is not quite as stout as I thought it would be. Hardest part so far was drilling the anchor hole in the concrete (I do not have a power drill as mine wore out during this, 1968 drill) here are the pics. The complete roof ran around $165. So for under $400 we have a backyard bar with cover. I still have a few minor details to complete on the cover, but for the most part she is done!! The unfortunate thing is I originally wanted to be able to cook under it too, but do not like the way the smoker and pit look there now, and the wind seems to never be in my favor. Oh well more reason to make an outdoor kitchen next.


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## sotexhookset

Good job.


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## monkeyman1

Look great. I like budget-minded builds that serve the purpose. But...I think you need at least 2 more 4x4's (I'd do 3) to support the roof overhang - one on each end and one in the middle. I would also add a brace from the top of the bar up to the roof joist. This will probably sag over time.


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## Castaway2

monkeyman1 said:


> Look great. I like budget-minded builds that serve the purpose. But...I think you need at least 2 more 4x4's (I'd do 3) to support the roof overhang - one on each end and one in the middle. I would also add a brace from the top of the bar up to the roof joist. This will probably sag over time.


thanks for the comments Guys!

yup... the sag is why I am changing out the 2x4 to a 2x6 trying to avoid having braces in the middle of the Bar or another support and for the overhang I expect it to sag a little over time but I donâ€™t think it would be significant maybe 2" sag will just help the water drain off. if not when it starts to sag to drastically I will just remove the 1x3's and replace with 2x4's. the 1x3's were cheap at a $1 a piece so i can afford that sacrifice. 
the true test will come in a couple hours when the wind picks up to the predicted 30mph, hoping it doesnt catch to much wind and rip off. that could be bad, but I belive I have enough screws in it to hold it down.:clover:


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## saltwatersensations

I would run those 1x3's the opposite direction and extend the roof frame closer to the end of your tin roof.


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## Law Dog

I would add a brace from the ground or the top of the bar up to the roof joist. Looks like it's starting sag a little and will sag more over time.


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## Jamie_Lee

Cant forget to add this above the bar!!


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## Castaway2

Jamie_Lee said:


> Cant forget to add this above the bar!!


Awesome. .the wife well love that! .green to you when i get back to a computer have no clue how to do it on the phone(although i am sure you have plenty. .seen your thread s blow up.. lol) seriously thanks for the idea! !!


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## Jamie_Lee

I don't know if you or your wife have a pinterest account or not, but if you don't, GET ONE! But beware, you will start wanting to make all kinds of stuff! Just go to pinterest and type in "backyard bar" and you will get soooo many ideas!


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## Castaway2

Jamie_Lee said:


> I don't know if you or your wife have a pinterest account or not, but if you don't, GET ONE! But beware, you will start wanting to make all kinds of stuff! Just go to pinterest and type in "backyard bar" and you will get soooo many ideas!


I dont but,.... who knows about the wife she has FB, INSTA something etc etc etc. but i will now add that to my lurking list. thanks a bunch!! i deceided to tweak the idea above you gave... hint i am going the same route but using a old ship wheel (once i find one LOL) :bounce:


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