# Aluminum welding help



## captainharvey

Ok guys, I need some real folk advise. 
I want to learn to weld aluminum with a tig machine. 
I don't know anything about it. I can stick weld pretty good, but that doesn't work well for aluminum. I have a buddy that can mig aluminum, but nothing too thin.(.100 or less) And I'm tired of paying and waiting in the local shops. 
This will be for repairs to my current flounder rig and also for rigging out a new flounder boat. Plus it wouldn't be a bad addition to the shop 
I would like to purchase a good used unit but not sure what all I would need. 
Also dont need an industrial setup, just something to work on the boats and other small projects. In the short run I'm sure it's cheaper to have the work done by a shop, but I've been saying that for 10+ yrs. 
any advise is welcomed. 

Ps if anyone would like to give lessons, I would gladly pay and or trade some gigging. 
Thanks


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## BullyARed

Check your local community college or vocational school. They often offer welding class. Or, search youtube.


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## fowlwaters

To get a good tig set up you will pay afew thousand dollars for you may be better off just paying to have repairs done. I dont teach welding but I do tig and mig aluminum.


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## captainharvey

fowlwaters said:


> To get a good tig set up you will pay afew thousand dollars for you may be better off just paying to have repairs done. I dont teach welding but I do tig and mig aluminum.


Well I've spent $200-$500 here and there for years and my new design on my next setup is quoted at about 6k. That includes the material, but I won't be there while it is built. 
I think I'm going to get set up and just practice. With the help of google and some books I will learn eventually.


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## McDaniel8402

I've done quite a bit of tig on stainless, but only a little bit on aluminum. Aluminum requires a tig machine with a high frequency AC setting. The lower end tig welders will do DC only, and it won't work for aluminum. As stated, expect to spend a few grand on a machine that will weld aluminum. Keep an eye out on Craigslist and you'll probably be able to find a decent used one from someone downsizing a welding shop. Lincoln, Miller, Hobart, etc. Stay away from the cheesy "made in china" off brand welders that sell for cheap. Buy once, cry once. Also, if you didn't know it already, tig requires the use of an argon bottle. Argon is 'spensive.


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## captainharvey

From what I have read on the Internet, a miller syncrowave 250 seems to be a popular choice. Also some recommend a 50/50 mix of argon and helium. I'm not in a big hurry, so I will be watching for one to pop up.


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## CoastalOutfitters

captainharvey said:


> From what I have read on the Internet, a miller syncrowave 250 seems to be a popular choice. Also some recommend a 50/50 mix of argon and helium. I'm not in a big hurry, so I will be watching for one to pop up.


we have that one at work

take a class from someone, it's not really close to stick welding and can be really frustrating if your rig isn't set up right to start with.

way faster to learn w someone right there and can tell you how to dial in your exact machine for the thickness you are welding. been there.


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## troutsupport

You tube has some really good clips search for tig aluminum... it's all in the settings. 

Tig aluminum is alternating current, look at changing the electrode to the green tipped one, and learn how to set the negative phase time on the machine ...should be about 70% negative.... just watch the you tubes... adjust your amperage for how hot it is. Use a 1/8th rod... that's about all i can help with but it ought to get you going and not blowing out the edge... I know.. I learned the hard way. Miller has some good info too if you google miller and tig weld aluminum. I have some 1/8th and 1/16t filler rod you can have if you are anywhere near austin.


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## mule76

keep an eye out for a miller syncrowave 200 as well as the 250. I have a 200 and have yet to be limited by it's power. I mainly weld aluminum with it for dogboxes and boat parts. 
One thing to keep in mind is that a tig takes more power than a mig so be sure that you have a 50amp breaker for the welder(sync 200 at least, not sure on the sync250). I got mine for less than a grand with a bottle and a bunch of consumables. it is nothing like mig or stick welding either, especially aluminum. 
I wouldn't worry about the helium either. it just adds cost/complexity and unless you are trying to weld thicker aluminum consistently it will not help, especially with thinner stuff(.125 and less) Helium gives you better penetration with the same amount of heat, typically a bigger problem when learning, especially on thin AL, is blowing through the material.


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## fowlwaters

It is one thing to lay a bead down another thing to weld pipe. With aluminum you dont see a puddle as with steel. Tig welding you will have 3 things going at once torch filler rod and foot peddle I once showed a buddy how to tig he said if you can run around to block while writing your name you could tig weld. You will only 100% argon you cant compare tig to stick and the aluminum is a different animal also.


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## smooth move

i picked up a miller diversion for $1000. it's as small a machine as i've ever seen, with a short duty cycle, but for small stuff it's ok. you can't make it all the way around a 2" pipe with out kicking the breaker, it will reset itself in about 2-3 min. no problems with smaller pipe though. google aluminum TIG, there's a ton of video's that will show you how to do it. oh yeah, the diversion comes with a hand control, not a pedal control, takes a little practice using it. you can get a foot control for about $300. hope this helps.


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## McDaniel8402

fowlwaters said:


> It is one thing to lay a bead down another thing to weld pipe. With aluminum you dont see a puddle as with steel. Tig welding you will have 3 things going at once torch filler rod and foot peddle I once showed a buddy how to tig he said if you can run around to block while writing your name you could tig weld. You will only 100% argon you cant compare tig to stick and the aluminum is a different animal also.


to HE!! with a foot peddle!! Good grief. Thats stone age tig welding there. Thumb controls are soooooooooooooo much nicer. :biggrin:

To mule76, you made out BIG TIME getting that whole rig for less than a grand. I'd like to make that move, but need some regular shop space beyond my 2 car garage before i do it. The garage is already overly cluttered with tools, toys, kids stuff, etc.


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## paragod

captainharvey said:


> From what I have read on the Internet, a miller syncrowave 250 seems to be a popular choice. Also some recommend a 50/50 mix of argon and helium. I'm not in a big hurry, so I will be watching for one to pop up.


Thats what I have


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## fowlwaters

250 DX is what we have.


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## Sonnysmarine

I bought a new 200 syncowave but it was air cooled, and got a thumb switch, works good on all but the sch 80 pipe i use on the rear rack, It will kick the breaker, after full power for 8 min trying to weld it. I did buy a water cooler set up and Water cooled torch. Much better set up, that way, the 250 syncowave runner package is a Nice set up but $$$$ unless you can find a good used one. 100 % Argon is the way to go, I think, for the money if only going to do Alum.
THe local Alum shop tryed the mixed, said get to bottom on the bottle and was not mixed and had to dump the bottle at around 500 psi, and cost a lot more than just argon. 
Only way to learn is time under the hood. More time under the hood, and more time under the hood. I have watched lots of online, but most of the time still weld butt ugly welds,unless flat metal on the bench, strong, but not the perfect row of nickles. I fit and tack every thing up and pay them to weld it all out for pretty welds, . Welding pipe in fitted joints is a real fun, on a boat with a foot pedal would be a nightmare in the postions you have to get in. A pipe notcher is a must! to do the racks with good joints, you can find a hand notcher, that works on 3/4- 1 1/4 pipe, works like a breeze and quick 10 sec a joint and clean tight fitting joints, they are a couple hundred on ebay. 
But its hard to bet a man at his own game. A experenced Alum wleder is worth his Money he charges, he makes it look so easy, from time under the hood. 100 gauge is not that easy to start with IMOP> 1/4 is easier to practice. Find alum shop that will give you come off or offer to buy cheap thier cut offs and play with them first. 
Buy extra cups, tungestion, extra collets, you will need them starting off. It all adds up quick, I know, I did it because T-tops and more is So dang busy and the only ones in town, and I needed to get the Flounder rigs built now. Not that I want to start a welding for a living, I would starve and been playing with it for over 1 1/2 years. 
Come down to the shop on a sat morn and I will let you play with it and see, I have lots of Pipe cut off scraps, I have had rig welders in the shop and let them play with it and others that said I can weld alum, and let them try it while i work on thier boats, most end up with a big chuck of melted blob, or holes right through the pipe, burnt cups, messed up tungstun pieces. Yeah right,,, Good luck, not trying to discourge you at all, hope you have the touch, before you spend the money, and Old dirty alum that has been on a boat is a lot different than brand new clean alum! Like I said a good alum welder is worth what he charges!


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## fowlwaters

This was tacked with spoolgun then tig weld with a sync 250 DX with foot peddle and water cooled torch.


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## Bottomsup

The first thing you will have to get used to is to not to pull the torch away from the work to stop the weld and to not touch the weld with the tungsten. Also the aluminum must be cleaned right before welding it. Use a stainless steel brush to clean the weld area and keep your tungsten rod, stainless brush, and grinder or belt sander covered and only use it for aluminum welding prep. Contamination is your enemy.


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## COOLWADERS

I have a Miller Diversion 165 running 100% Argon and it is very easy to use. It was around 1K. Bought it to build my flounder rig. My first build is not that pretty, but as I progressed it looks better and better. It is nice to be able to do aluminum without taking it to a shop and waiting. But as Sonny said, practice, practice, practice.


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## Sr SQ

I agree with pretty much all thats been recommended, one other point I found in my quest to weld aluminium 
If you are going to get a transformer machine like the Miller Syncrowave ( Lincoln Squarewave 255 is the one I bought) make sure you have the service (power) for it, my 255 Lincoln requires 100 amps to run full boogie.
I prefer the foot pedal but when welding pipe on a top or similar multi angle jobs thumb control is a must.

Practice, Practice, Practice, Practice then when you have done that.................. practice some more.


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## Coastline Marine

captainharvey said:


> Ok guys, I need some real folk advise.
> I want to learn to weld aluminum with a tig machine.
> I don't know anything about it. I can stick weld pretty good, but that doesn't work well for aluminum. I have a buddy that can mig aluminum, but nothing too thin.(.100 or less) And I'm tired of paying and waiting in the local shops.
> This will be for repairs to my current flounder rig and also for rigging out a new flounder boat. Plus it wouldn't be a bad addition to the shop
> I would like to purchase a good used unit but not sure what all I would need.
> Also dont need an industrial setup, just something to work on the boats and other small projects. In the short run I'm sure it's cheaper to have the work done by a shop, but I've been saying that for 10+ yrs.
> any advise is welcomed.
> 
> Ps if anyone would like to give lessons, I would gladly pay and or trade some gigging.
> Thanks


If you find yourself around Seabrook for a couple weeks you can come up to our shop and learn from some very talented guys.

-Cole


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## cva34

*TIG*

Just wanted to say thanks Lotsa great info..cva34


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