# Fuji KR concept system size suggestions



## cfulbright (Jun 24, 2009)

I have never set up a Fuji KR concept system and need a little help.

This is going on a mhx high mod 822 6'9" with a 2500 series Shimano Stradic CI4.

My runners are going to be micro 5.5s I think. I see they have high, med, and low frames, I believe my striper and next choke guide is going to be a high frame(right?) not sure on what ring sizes, and not sure what frame heights are next.

Thanks for the help :cheers:


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## CaptDocHoliday (Feb 3, 2011)

KR-H 20
KR-H 12
KR-H 5.5
Micro 5.5's the rest of the way. I build only spinning rods and like this setup the best.

For a spinning rod I'd suggest going to 7'6"


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## Goags (May 28, 2004)

I played around w/ a few different sizes when they first came out and ended up liking the KL-H 16, KL-H 5.5, w/ KT 4 runners for a 2500 reel. What CDH said above, will work as well. If I was gonna use 5.5 runners, I'd tape up a KL-H 16 and maybe a KL-H 8 and see how it casts.


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## Swampland (Mar 25, 2008)

I also use a 16H then 5.5H then 4.5 runners. I cast as far as I need to with that set up with no problems at all.


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## cfulbright (Jun 24, 2009)

CaptDocHoliday said:


> KR-H 20
> KR-H 12
> KR-H 5.5
> Micro 5.5's the rest of the way. I build only spinning rods and like this setup the best.
> ...


What size reels are you using?


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## CroakerJO (Mar 16, 2011)

16H, 8H, 5.5M will bullseye perfectly for braid to 20# mono to 6lb and maybe 8lb
20H, 10H, 5.5M will bullseye perfectly for 20-30# braid and mono to 10lb
Follow with 1 or 2 KB "belly guides" and then same size KT runners. 
Running guides are not offered in medium or high frames...always use the regular KT.

Assuming use of a 2500-3000 series reel.

Lance and Goags have removed the 8H...not a bad idea for weight savings if everything still works right.


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## cfulbright (Jun 24, 2009)

Ok I ordered a 16h, 8h, 5.5h and M, and 3x 4.5kb & 3x kt's(to experiment with) Im lost on the proper place to put them. Im using a Shimano 2500 stradic Ci4, I tried the GPS Fuji software but it seems to be all messed up when choosing that reel, I am going to get numbers to do the x27 method tonight. 
With the x27 you measure the spool LIP diameter right? and the spool axle to blank.

Anyhelp would be great.
Numbers would be great with an explanation of how you got them. 
If there is a better way im all ears.


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## CaptDocHoliday (Feb 3, 2011)

cfulbright said:


> What size reels are you using?


Stradic CI4's on Phenix K2's.

I like the 20 as the stripper because it helps keep the line from slapping the blank between the reel and the stripper. This was happening to me when I would throw a top water and would have a little slack as I was walking the dog & reeling. The solution was to use the 20 and move it a touch closer to the reel seat. I'd say my stripper is somewhere in the 18"-19" range from the reel seat. I usually mount the reel first, take the spool off, tie a long piece of thread to the spindle, line it up parallel to the spindle and where the line intersects the rod is my starting point. From here I move it down (closer to the reel) a touch until I'm comfortable with the build.


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## cfulbright (Jun 24, 2009)

Thanks doc. I will tape it all up and test and order a 20 if need be for my set up.

I found this and it helped me understand it better. http://ohiorodbuilders.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/guidetrainlayout.pdf


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## CroakerJO (Mar 16, 2011)

Sorry for the delayed response and I'm sure you have the rod set up by now. But for the record, with a 2500 or 3000 Series reel (a CI4), in the vast majority of cases, the 16 stripper will fall around 19-inches. The choke point will usually work best around 20-inches beyond the stripper. Bullseye the other two reduction guides between the stripper and choke point and position accordingly. Very easy, excellent layout.


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## cfulbright (Jun 24, 2009)

Still not set up, I am working slow on this one. 

Tried the x27 method. But the stripper fell at about 22.5" and it seems to far to me, also the choke fell at 48.5". I think this method would work great with a 20mm stripper, and that may be what I do. Any thoughts here guys? I did tape it up and cast it... it was just ok, I was hoping for better.

CroakerJO 
How did you get those numbers? Is there something I can go by when doing other rods? When you say bulleyes you mean run line from the axle though the stripper, and choke and center the line in the reduction guides right?(the x27 has you put the line on the bottom of the outside of the ring, that's why im clarifying)


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## VooDoo (Jan 30, 2013)

23.5" is not that crazy. Most of the 7' rods I make have a 20H that fall between 21-22". On a 6'9" with a 16H I would guess 20" or 21" with a 2500 reel should be about right. (I would still go 20/12/5.5) A tip for "bullseyeing" on a KR setup - get your 16,10,5.5H and your 5.5Belly on with tie wraps. You can eyeball down the blank so each guide behind the larger is center of the larger. You then should be able to line up a 1/8" wooden dowel center from the 16H to the 5.5belly. Set your runners after that then test cast. Adjust as needed - should be able to dial it in pretty good then.


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## ncmullet (Sep 1, 2010)

CroakerJo why the 1 or 2 kb and then the kt? can't you use just the the kt or the kb


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## cfulbright (Jun 24, 2009)

The Kb is a belly guide that helps support the belly of the blank. The small feet on the KT were a problem for some blanks from my understanding. I really like using the belly guides there so much easier to put tread on, but are to heavy for the tip area.


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## ncmullet (Sep 1, 2010)

Ok thanks I have not had a problem with the KT guides have used the KB too but not on the same blank will try it on the next rod thanks


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## CroakerJO (Mar 16, 2011)

Fuji has revised KR set up for faster easier selection and position.
1) For braid to 15lb and mono to 8lb use a 16H, 8H, 5.5M group. (for other groups based on line size and reel size, see page 46 & 47 of the latest catalog which can be downloaded)
2) Position the stripper as you always have using the New Guide Concept. (Table edge or GPS will help with this)
3) Measure the distance between the stripper and the rod tip and multiply by .45. Place the choke guide that distance beyond the stripper.
4) Place the 8H and the 5.5M to "bullseye" between the 16H and the choke guide (a KB Belly guide)
5) Static load KT runners to the tip.

DONE.


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## cfulbright (Jun 24, 2009)

Thank you Croaker! That did it. lol It all makes since now, I see the light. I also found a blog on your website that helped. http://anglersresource.net/Blog/tabid/627/entryid/9/BUILDING-THE-KR-CONCEPT-SPINNING-ROD.aspx


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