# Manfrotto or ??????



## dicklaxt (Jun 2, 2005)

I have a friend who has accepted the challenge of fabricating me a tripod head.I have heard a lot about "M" but is there a better one or one that is more user friendly?He needs a "go by" photo(says thats all he needs) so I need to find the best .I'll bet he can do it,,,,,,,,this guy never ceases to amaze me with his skills.I don't know why he isn't a millionaire,yes I do,he just doesn't want to be.I have never known a more knowledgeable person,, not even Einstein.He is an accomplished, "Mr Whatever", I could go on and on about this guys abilities and yes he has the necessary equipment to fabricate this in his own little workshop.What someone else would pay $10,$20 or $50 thousand for he will get for junk prices or free and have it working and refurbished to closer spec,s and tolerances than when it(whatever it may be) came from the factory.He has unlimited abilities.ie:If you lived on a mountain top anywhere in the world and wanted to build a solar collector to power,heat & serve your house and needed to know the horizontal and vertical position of this collector in relation to the sun,,,,,,,well no more details, that was one of his last projects and it included building the collector and all other components needed except some of the electronics........

dick


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## stargazer (May 24, 2004)

Dick, I am perfectly happy with my Manfrotto (see below), but then again I like my Tiltall also.

http://www.calumetphoto.com/1/1/13625-055xprob-protripod-black.html


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## Arlon (Feb 8, 2005)

I mainly use a monopod. When it comes to parks and such I just much prefer the mobility and ease of use from the monopod. Not too many monopod converts out there but those that try it seldom go back to lugging a tripod all over the country. 

I still use a tripod for moon shots but that's about the only time I use one anymore. I haven't left the house with a tripod in tow for several years now.


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## Pocketfisherman (May 30, 2005)

Even with the Monopod, I still use a grip style ballhead. Using it is very intuitive and fast and saves time over trying to fumble with the angle of the monopod, especially in crowds.

My favorites are Manfrotto and Brunton, and they are so similar I wonder if they're ultimately the same manufacturer. For the tripod, I like the side grip style ballhead, for the monopod the vertical grip style works better. Whatever you choose, make sure it is rated to take the weight of that big lens hanging off the front and still grip without slipping position.


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## Arlon (Feb 8, 2005)

I don't think there are any grip heads that will safely support the 500mm with a TC (about 10lbs). I've gotten pretty handy with mine, not much fumbling. Still like it way better than a tripod.


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## MT Stringer (May 21, 2004)

A tripod head. Is that what you are talking about? I have a Manfroto 486RC2 ball head on my tripod but it is too small to support the weight of my camera/lens combo. I neeed at least the 488 model.

The quick release is pretty nice. Makes assembly/disassembly of the equipment go smoother.

Hope this helps.
And he's going to build you one?
Mike


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## fishphoto (Mar 3, 2005)

Arlon said:


> I don't think there are any grip heads that will safely support the 500mm with a TC (about 10lbs). I've gotten pretty handy with mine, not much fumbling. Still like it way better than a tripod.


I'm using the RRS MH-01 High Capacity Monopod Head on a Gitzo monopod. This will hold both of my long lenses. I can also use it to attach a camera with a wide angle lens to my Wimberly head when I'm lugging the tripod around.

http://reallyrightstuff.com/tripods/04.html


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## sandybottom (Jun 1, 2005)

MT Stringer said:


> A tripod head. Is that what you are talking about? I have a Manfroto 486RC2 ball head on my tripod but it is too small to support the weight of my camera/lens combo. I neeed at least the 488 model.
> 
> The quick release is pretty nice. Makes assembly/disassembly of the equipment go smoother.
> 
> ...


That is what I use. I use a Mafroto tripod and Monopod also. 
But I find myself hand holding just about everything. I guess when I can afford a big lens I'll be using the tripod again. But that will be a long time.


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## Pocketfisherman (May 30, 2005)

Arlon said:


> I don't think there are any grip heads that will safely support the 500mm with a TC (about 10lbs). I've gotten pretty handy with mine, not much fumbling. Still like it way better than a tripod.


I've been real happy with this one rated for 5Kg

http://www.manfrotto.com/Jahia/site/manfrotto/pid/2319?livid=null&lsf=null&child=null

If the link does not work, it's a Manfrotto 322RC2 heavy duty grip ball head mount with quick release.


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## Arlon (Feb 8, 2005)

Brett, that looks like a good head but I was just talking about "grip" heads. The one just above is the heaviest duty I've seen for a grip head. I'll still stick with I've got though. I'm comfortable with it and just don't see any need to fix what's not broken yet.. The one you posted looks like a work of art. They sure make some nice stuff!

Only thing I did was replace the cheap chinese 1/4 20 screw with a grade 8 1/4 20 cap screw. I was afraid of the small cheap screw that was holding my lens and camera on the monopod.


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## dicklaxt (Jun 2, 2005)

This question sure evolved into a discussion didn't it?

I currently have this one

http://www.buy.com/prod/sunpak-757tm-tri-monopod-nic/q/loc/111/207681550.html

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,not knowing jack about tripods/monopods or quality,what more do I need and why is this not a respectable trimon setup.It seems adequate for a weekend duffer.

It just seems to have the wiggles like movement when trying to focus etc but wouldn't they all?,yes I have a remote release too and that helps with the wiggles,it seems to have adequate features,it has two levels.

dick


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## fishphoto (Mar 3, 2005)

I really like the RRS head, although I'm not a fan of the price. You can set the tension on it so that you can tilt the lens up or down and it will stay in place when you let go. It has been really great with the 200-400 so far. I haven't used it with the 600 yet.


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## MT Stringer (May 21, 2004)

I have a Slik Pro 500D. It is kinda heavy but works pretty well. I bought it from B&H, but it was the same price at Houston Camera Exchange. That's where I bought a second quick release plate at the same price as B&H.

I would like a lighter tripod but haven't been able to justify it.
Mike


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## fishphoto (Mar 3, 2005)

dicklaxt said:


> This question sure evolved into a discussion didn't it?
> 
> I currently have this one
> 
> ...


If you can still see some shake or vibration in the camera while on the tripod, you need something that's more sturdy. Most people (myself included) learn this lesson the hard way. Invest in a good tripod and it will last a very long time. I have a Giottos aluminum tripod for my small stuff and a heavy Gitzo for the long lenses.


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## sandybottom (Jun 1, 2005)

One thing that really helps with camera shake is a wireless remote or a cable release.
I think this is one of the most important tools IMO.
Use this with a heavy duty tripod and it will make a world of difference with the right exposure! I even use it when hand holding my shots and have noticed a difference.
http://www.amazon.com/Canon-RS-60T3-Camera-control/dp/B00009R6VX


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## Arlon (Feb 8, 2005)

If the remote isn't available using a 2sec self timer works pretty well too (static subjects). Not so got on flying birds though.. (-:}


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## sandybottom (Jun 1, 2005)

Arlon said:


> If the remote isn't available using a 2sec self timer works pretty well too (static subjects). Not so got on flying birds though.. (-:}


I keep forgetting about that self timer, roger on the birds though.


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## MT Stringer (May 21, 2004)

Here ya go, Dick. This would work great with your bird photography. Just set up the camera and back away (into the shade!!!).

http://cgi.ebay.com/Phottix-Wireless-Remote-Set-C8-for-Canon-30D-40D-50D-5D_W0QQitemZ170328684766QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCamera_Cables_Cords?hash=item27a86178de&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1234|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50

I have this model and it works just fine. 'Course I haven't had it outside, but it worked perfect for taking a self portrait.
That's also where I ordered mine - HK Supplies.

Good luck.
Mike


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## Arlon (Feb 8, 2005)

I have a wireless remote for the D200. Used it a few times and it's pretty handy when you need it.


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## Pocketfisherman (May 30, 2005)

And if you're using a long lens on the tripod, it also helps to enable mirror lockup too. On Canon's with the self time enabled, it will now take two presses of the shutter, or remote release. The first will raise the mirror, the second will start the timer and fire the shutter. Using mirror lockup lets the vibrations from the mirror kicking up damp out before the shutter fires. It would only be noticeable with really long focal lengths like 300mm plus.


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## dicklaxt (Jun 2, 2005)

If vibration from the shutter is a problem then more of the problem lies with the tripod than with the head IMO.

dick


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## Pocketfisherman (May 30, 2005)

dicklaxt said:


> If vibration from the shutter is a problem then more of the problem lies with the tripod than with the head IMO.
> 
> dick


Not Necessarily. It's more a function of focal length of the lens magnifying any vibration at all (Think big long lever moving tiny pixels). An extreme case is Astro Photography where the camera mounts right to the scope, which is usually on a massive weighted equatorial mount or sturdy tripod. This is from an astro photo FAQ:

*Cameras*

 _Astrophotography has special requirements for the type camera used. Most astrophotographers use 35mm camera bodies and a few use larger format types. Since this is a discussion of the basics and due to the fact that I know little of medium and large format cameras, we will stick with the 35mm variety._ _The first requirement of the camera is that it have the capability to hold open the shutter for extended periods of time. This necessitates that the shutter control be of the manual type rather than the electronic or fully automatic variety. Most modern 35mm cameras manufactured today have electronic shutter controls which makes them unsuitable for long exposure photography due to the fact that the shutter, while being held open, imparts a constant amperage drain on the camera's battery. The small batteries in these cameras cannot withstand very long periods of holding open the shutter and will quickly deplete their charge and go dead. In this case, the shutter will close since there is nothing to physically hold open the shutter. The best camera selection is one with a manual shutter control. With a remote shutter cable installed and the cameras shutter speed set to the "B" (or bulb) position, the shutter can be opened, and indefinately held open, by depressing the button on the cable and locking it down with the thumbscrew on the remote cable._
_A second important feature to look for in a camera is mirror lockup. When the shutter button on a camera is depressed, two things happen in rapid succession. First, the mirror flips upward to allow the light entering the lens to get to the film and second, the shutter then opens. The motion of the mirror while retracting out of the way and the rapid sudden stop when it does, sets up a vibration in the camera and scope assembly that often will blur or create double images on the photo. The most desireable astrophotography camera is one that has the capability to "lock up" the mirror before the shutter is opened. This allows the vibrations to settle out before the film is exposed to the light and thus eliminate the blurring that sometimes occurs with the mirror movement. Purchasing a new camera that has manual shutter capability and mirror lock up these days is next to impossible unless one is willing to spend big bucks on some of the very high end models that offer manual as well as automatic operation. A better choice is to shop the pawn shops or used camera dealers for one of the older models that were made when manual control was the norm. There are several that are useful and a couple that come to mind were the Cannon F-1 body that was manufactured in the early 1970s and the Olympus OM-1._


The Source is here:



_http://www.geocities.com/capecanaveral/lab/6529/primer.html
_


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