# Bright yellow tomato leaves



## Fishwish (Aug 3, 2004)

I've grown my share of tomatoes and I have never seen this before. These are Better Boys that I planted 3 weeks ago and the leaves are turning a very bright yellow. I have grown BBs in this soil the past 6 years with good results and didn't really do anything different this year. Has anyone experienced this before or have knowledge of the possible cause? Thanks!


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## Rubberback (Sep 9, 2008)

Looks like a bug is laying eggs on the leaves.


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## trout250 (Aug 24, 2005)

i have one plant out of 25 that has same dis colorization on a few of the leaves have not found any bugs on it.


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## MichaelW (Jun 16, 2010)

I have seen tomato leaves turn yellow from lack of nitrogen but your leaves look a 
bit different than what I have seen before.


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## CopanoCruisin (May 28, 2006)

http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/vegetable/problem-solvers/tomato-problem-solver/

Check out this A&M site. Best of luck...............cC


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## ATracker (Aug 30, 2010)

I always rotate my plantings every year or every other year if I amend the soil with new compost. Your plants reflect a mineral shortage to me especially since you are growing in the same area for the past six years. 

I would start with a foliar spray of Epson salt (1 tablespoon to a gallon of water), next amend the soil by digging a trench six inches out around the plants and four inches deep add about 2 tablespoons of Epson salts and pulverized egg shell and mix in. Finally I would add a couple of inches of organic compost to the bed and water.

Hopefully this will get things turned around and if not research iron deficiency.


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## Dick Hanks (Aug 16, 2007)

I've never seen tomato leaves like that before. The rest of the leaves have a nice deep green color so nitrogen isn't the problem. Too much moisture will yellow leaves, but that is more consistent over all of the leaves. 

I haven't seen a bacteria or virus start yellowing at the base of the leaf and move to the tip like that with no blotching. It's the pattern of starting at the base of the leaf and moving out evenly with the bright yellow that is so unusual.

As ATracker mentioned, Epsom has magnesium and sulfur, and the egg shell has calcium. Don't over do the Epsom. More is NOT better. Did you get any blossom end rot on tomatoes last year? If so, calcium may be your problem. Any calcium correction will be slow acting.

Most soils have enough iron, but it can be "tied up" if the soil gets too alkaline. Do you know what the Ph of your soil is?

I wish that WR Ranch was still contributing here. He is a Master Gardener now.


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## Rubberback (Sep 9, 2008)

Dick Hanks said:


> I've never seen tomato leaves like that before. The rest of the leaves have a nice deep green color so nitrogen isn't the problem. Too much moisture will yellow leaves, but that is more consistent over all of the leaves.
> 
> I haven't seen a bacteria or virus start yellowing at the base of the leaf and move to the tip like that with no blotching. It's the pattern of starting at the base of the leaf and moving out evenly with the bright yellow that is so unusual.
> 
> ...


X2. Lots of knowledge & experience.


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## jm423 (Sep 18, 2011)

Just my $0.02, but I think it's some kind of nutritional thing, either a deficiency or some "unfriendly" substance has gotten into the soil. Probably nutrient deficiency IMO considering the pattern of more yellowing in leaves nearing the stem. But that is a guess. You say you have grown tomatoes in that spot for several years--maybe past time to rotate?


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## Rubberback (Sep 9, 2008)

jm423 said:


> Just my $0.02, but I think it's some kind of nutritional thing, either a deficiency or some "unfriendly" substance has gotten into the soil. Probably nutrient deficiency IMO considering the pattern of more yellowing in leaves nearing the stem. But that is a guess. You say you have grown tomatoes in that spot for several years--maybe past time to rotate?


Could be! I rotate all my crops. But cucs but I redo the dirt every year. Little of this lot of this then till & row up.


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## ATracker (Aug 30, 2010)

I did a little research and this website has a photo of iron deficiency that looks like your plants. I suggested soil amending and Dick Hanks also agrees that you may have walked your soil into the alkaline side blocking iron intake. 

http://www.haifa-group.com/knowledge_center/crop_guides/tomato/plant_nutrition/nutrient_deficiency_symptoms/

Also if you are using commercial fertilizers they will increase salts to your soil that can cause the same symptoms. Always rotate crops and amend soil with new organic compost and fertilizer. I use aged chicken poop (like Rubberback) and composted vegetable scraps as a fertilizer amendment or as a tea.

Let us know how this pans out!


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## tec (Jul 20, 2007)

It is Glyphosate damage caused by a herbicide like Round-up. 20-20-20 fertilize may help it but replacing the plant may be better this early in the season.


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## Rubberback (Sep 9, 2008)

tec said:


> It is Glyphosate damage caused by a herbicide like Round-up. 20-20-20 fertilize may help it but replacing the plant may be better this early in the season.


I'd say this is good advice.


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## Meadowlark (Jul 19, 2008)

My thought was pretty much along the lines as tec posted. Never seen a mineral deficiency in maters manifest itself like that. Looks like some chemical...maybe by drift..got on certain areas of the plant. 

I would replace it with a healthy one and see what happens.


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## jm423 (Sep 18, 2011)

If it were me, I would pull a couple branches, head for TAMU Extension office. Could probably get answer by sending pic to College Station gurus, or possibly send in for analysis. I would want to know the "howcome" whether I replanted in this or another location, or waited to see development. Pls keep us informed.


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## Ready.Fire.Aim (Sep 22, 2009)

tec said:


> It is Glyphosate damage caused by a herbicide like Round-up. ............replacing the plant may be better this early in the season.


You are correct. Get rid of the plants and replant.

Glyphosate (AI in Roundup Herbicide) reduces chlorophyll & is a photosynthesis inhibitor. That is why the leaves change color, eventually turning white. 
It stops growth immediately, days before turning yellow.

Glyphosate damage photos from Internet for comparison:





Good luck

RFA


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## trout250 (Aug 24, 2005)

as an earlier post said i had 1 out of 25 with similar dis colorization, have been applying medina has to grow to plant via a pump up sprayer and most of it has cleared up. 1/4 cup to 2 gals water mix


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