# Mako Pro Skiff Mods



## bryster

I know there are a few of us out there - Since the boat is pretty basic off the showroom, it would be nice to show any mods, rigging, or tips for these boats.

One of my first projects was putting a cover on the center console opening - i really think it's tacky left open. 
I also saw a mod on carolinaskiffowners where someone used a 4" deck plate and some PVC to make waterproof storage for wallet, keys etc.

I'm thinking of either putting a shelf on the backside or using the space for a speaker for a stereo project. I'm kinda stumped on mounting a forward speaker though - other than hiding one next to the horn I don't really see a nice spot for a forward firing speaker

I found scrap plastic on ebay, use plasti-dip rubberized spray on the inside, PVC flang, pipe, and end cap, and a deck hatch


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## cnoise

Your Mako already looks more fancy than mine. I'm thinking trolling motor next. Then power pole. Then... who knows. Been having fun though.


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## reel legs

Hey guys, new to the forum glad to see some pro skiff owners! How skinny have y'all tried getting??


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## joebucko

Yo Bryster,
What holds the cover to the actual opening in the console?
Thanks


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## racingdc9

Taking delivery next Tuesday. I already ordered my stern saver for a future GPS/fishfinder and i've looked at the Minnkota riptide SM trolling motor. I looked into the power pole but going to hold off for now. I'm thinking about buying the 8' stakeout pole from stakeitanchorpins to hold us in place for now.


Any recommendations on a battery charger? Also, where should it be mounted?


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## bryster

Joe - I tried to use strips of velcro but the console has a bit of curve, so I use two screws on the top. They still come out when I need them to and it's held up fine. I wish Mako would make something like that an accessory - it cleans up that area and you can do a lot with it like storage.

racingdc9 congrats! - I just have leads mounted to the battery and use a battery tender when I get home. http://batterytender.com/motorcycle/battery-tender-junior-12v-at-0-75a.html

if you mean an on-board charger I'm not running one. I have a small battery for my MP3 player but haven't finalized location and charging system, and once I get a trolling motor I might get an onboard charger or figure somethign better out.

Mounting an ice chest up on the bow using a turnbuckle and threaded rod, will take pictures hopefully this weekend.

Bimini should arrive around the 14th and can't wait to get some shade


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## racingdc9

Bryster: I may get that tender for my AGM battery for my Torque(kayak). I bought an on board 2 bank charger today. I plan on installing a trolling motor. How much was the Bimini top that you ordered? Where did you order from? We were thinking of getting one too. Are you going to install it yourself?


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## joebucko

*My Mako Pro 17 Skiff*

Just got my boat and with two trips under my belt I really like it. I spent the first trip pretty much just running the new Mercury 60 through its first two hours of break in. Stopped to fish in the middle of the run and my very first fish was a 4+ pound bass. Proceeded to catch 7 more smaller bass in the next hour then got back to the task at hand. Did I mention that I REALLY like this boat.

The only things I have done to it so far are:
1. Install an onboard charger for the trolling motor battery.
2. Install my Humminbird 597 on the console.
3. Today I installed a Lowrance 5x-Pro on the bow.

I believe my first change to the boat will be to install a decent ladder on the transom. I am getting older and the thought of me trying to drag my old butt over the stern with the existing set up is a bit much. I would appreciate some recommendations on a decent ladder.

I will post some pictures when I figure out how.


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## joebucko

*My Mako Pro 17 Skiff*

Have attached some pictures.


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## sand storm

sweet little rig!:cop:


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## joebucko

*Boat cover for Mako Pro 17*

I did not buy the optional pro skiff cover with my boat just because of the price ($630+tax). I opted to work with a seller on Ebay to get something that would work. Well my cover came in yesterday and I couldn't be more pleased. Before ordering the seller and I exchanged about 10 emails concerning the dimensions of the boat and exactly what I wanted. He finally recommended an American Made cover by Carver in South Carolina.

If you need good American Made cover contact this Ebay seller: ARTICALS and tell him its for the Mako Pro 17. I got the 71018NP (18ft) because I will probably eventually replace my existing trolling motor with a MinnKota Terrova and these things are a bit larger than my existing MotorGuide and they also hang over the front of the boat quite a bit more. If you have a regular or NO trolling motor then you want the 71017NP.

They are available in a range of colors, neatly accomidate the center console, have a built in motor cover and come with a good tie down kit. Mine cost $255 with free shipping.


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## mudmauler

Sorry about the double post, found this mod thread after I made the other post. Have any of you pro skiff owners put a power pole on your rig? I ran into some trouble with the adapter bracket not fitting because of the transom tie down loop and don't know where to go from here. I want to install a sportsman II. Just want it to be sturdy and as easy to do as possible


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## racingdc9

mudmauler said:


> Sorry about the double post, found this mod thread after I made the other post. Have any of you pro skiff owners put a power pole on your rig? I ran into some trouble with the adapter bracket not fitting because of the transom tie down loop and don't know where to go from here. I want to install a sportsman II. Just want it to be sturdy and as easy to do as possible


I recently talked to Doug at the Katy BPS(he's one of the head boat guys there) and he said that you can't install a power pole on the transom because it will not support it. But, he did say one other way would be, you would have to install a jack plate, and then get the mounting bracket that will fit on the jack plate and mount it like that, but even then he said it's not the best way. I was kind of heartbroken when I heard that, hehe. I would go and talk to him and hear from him exactly why he said the power pole would not work. Right now, I use a 9 foot stake out stick with a bungy leash to anchor the boat down in shallow waters.


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## racingdc9

Excuse my ignorance when it comes to boating. Will a jack plate installed on this skiff help it run in skinnier waters, I know it has an 8" draft, but that's with the motor raised up right? So u would have to pole it around. Will the jack plate let the boat run in 8" of water?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mudmauler

racingdc9 said:


> I recently talked to Doug at the Katy BPS(he's one of the head boat guys there) and he said that you can't install a power pole on the transom because it will not support it. But, he did say one other way would be, you would have to install a jack plate, and then get the mounting bracket that will fit on the jack plate and mount it like that, but even then he said it's not the best way. I was kind of heartbroken when I heard that, hehe. I would go and talk to him and hear from him exactly why he said the power pole would not work. Right now, I use a 9 foot stake out stick with a bungy leash to anchor the boat down in shallow waters.


Thanks for the help. That's pretty much what I've been hearing. Oh well. I am going to go ahead and have a set up like the one you mentioned. Some sort of stiffy anchor rod. The dealer says it will be 300 installed with an aluminum bracket.


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## racingdc9

mudmauler said:


> Thanks for the help. That's pretty much what I've been hearing. Oh well. I am going to go ahead and have a set up like the one you mentioned. Some sort of stiffy anchor rod. The dealer says it will be 300 installed with an aluminum bracket.


http://www.stickitanchorpins.com/

Like the one from the above website? I just use a bungee leash that I used for my paddle on my kayak and looped one end around the cleat on the boat and the other end around the pole. Just gotta see which way the wind is blowing to decide which cleat on the boat to use.


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## mudmauler

Yeah, sort of like that but the bracket he showed me was aluminum.


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## Crow's Nest

http://skinnywaterproducts.com/product-category/anchor-brackets/

Check these guys out. I bought one for my Alumacraft and could not be happier.


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## joebucko

*Rod Holders*

I originally posted this on the general discussion site but thought I'd add it under the MODS Topic because that's what it is.

I got tired of my rods/reels flopping around in the short rod holders on the console so I made these inserts to tighten things up a bit. They have worked out great. 1 1/4" ID schedule 40 pvc knotched at the bottom to grab the bottom of the rod holder and sculpted top to fit both bait cast and spinning reels. Length is sized to fit my rod handles. A couple of wraps of duct tape and they are snug in the holes but can be pulled out easily if need be. The inside diameter of 1 1/4" was just right for my rods. If your handles are thicker I believe Lowes also had a pvc that had slightly thinner walls=wider inside diameter(probably drain pipe not schedule 40). 
The 2nd hole is pretty much useless for holding rods because of the stainless steel grab rail.


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## rgourley11

*Plastic*

Anyone looking for plastic sheet to do the console hatch mod like bryster did or something a little differnet found a place where you can get a 1/4" x 24" x 48" sheet of HDPE shipped to you for only $35.00. Go to www.zorotools.com item #3HMN7


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## texasislandboy

Thanks I needed a new top for my fish cleaning station on my dock. I ordered the .50 stuff for about half what I could get it here.


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## rgourley11

*Console mods*

Completed mods to console. Thanks for the Ideal Bryster. Decided on 2 for dry storage. Managed 11" storage slots. Also found some 10/24 plastic screws and wing nuts at Lowes, Drilled and tapped them in place to secure the panel on. Easy access if needed. Now onto installing 2 4" speakers and radio for some tune's while I am fishing.
Attached Images


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## rgourley11

*Couple more pic of installations*

Here is a couple more pic of a stern saver installed with a transducer on it.
A Lowerance installed on console. Did it this way so I can swing it all the way around when I am on front deck. Couple of 4" speakers installed.


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## rgourley11

*live well mods*

Mods to live well and Scotty rod holder installed.


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## mudslinger12

I havent been on here in a while.... I figured I would share my skiff mods here.
Along with the platform as shown, is a Humminbird 386cihd, the rod holder inserts, Atlas Microjacker jackplate, underwater LED livewell light, and Engel cooler mount on the bow.


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## mudslinger12

Another pic


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## joebucko

Nicely done Mudslinger12. Your boat looks terrific. How is the jack plate working out?


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## mudslinger12

Well I appreciate that Joe.... Its AWESOME! Im very happy w the boat as well. VERY dry, runs extremely shallow, takes on chop like a champ, and handles great.


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## Mini-x Fan

How shallow do these run? Y'all are doin a great job on them!


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## mudslinger12

Cant give exact measure, but I have ran in less than 9" on plane.


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## modestmike

mudslinger12 said:


> Another pic


Could you show a close up on the way the rear platform is mounted?


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## modestmike

Forgive my terminology if its wrong but, has anyone bothered to change the bow post on the trailer since the rollers are for a v hull? If so, what did you go with?


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## BaffinBayAg

*Let's take a pole.*



mudslinger12 said:


> I havent been on here in a while.... I figured I would share my skiff mods here.
> Along with the platform as shown, is a Humminbird 386cihd, the rod holder inserts, Atlas Microjacker jackplate, underwater LED livewell light, and Engel cooler mount on the bow.


How does this boat handle from the polling platform compared to a skiff such as a ranger ghost 17', or a ranger banshee 16', or other...


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## joebucko

I haven't changed out my bow roller either but have been thinking about it. I would be interested in what others have done. It seems to me that instead of a roller it needs to be some sort of flat padded surface. Any ideas out there?


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## highanddryinco

joebucko said:


> I haven't changed out my bow roller either but have been thinking about it. I would be interested in what others have done. It seems to me that instead of a roller it needs to be some sort of flat padded surface. Any ideas out there?


I too would be interested if anyone has come up with anything. A pivoting pad of some sort does sound about right. 
Not sure if it's related or not but does anyone else think their Pro-Skiff is kind of tough to get off the trailer? Mine sure doesn't seem to want to float and slide back until the trailer is quite deep. I'm usually in the truck and wife has the lines so I rarely watch it come off. Wondering if that bow roller isn't hanging up. There's another thread on this site about another boat model having those types of issues.


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## joebucko

My boat floats on and off the trailer with no problem but the ramps I am using are not very steep. Mine doesn't hang up on the roller I just don't thing the roller is a very good support for a flat front bow.


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## Eat Sleep Fish

Was supposed to post these pics a long time ago but totally forgot and got busy. Went down today and cleaned the boat real good and took some quick pictures of where I have my rod holders mounted. 2 up front and 2 in back.


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## modestmike

I didn't know they offered a front deck without the hatch. Im going to look into getting a removable front deck that I can use when I'm out fishing and then leave it at home when I take the wife and kids out. They love to sit on the bow "seats". 

Does anyone have any recommendations on how to go about doing this or possibly someone who does in the Port Isabel/SPI area?

I'm also thinking of adding trim tabs to keep the boat stable. My wife and kids seem to love sitting on one side and HATE when I tell them to move. I'm not sure it's even possible to install trim tabs on this boat.....but what do I know?


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## Eat Sleep Fish

We have the 16' so no front hatch. We added hydrofoil tabs to our motor and we really like them.


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## highanddryinco

joebucko said:


> My boat floats on and off the trailer with no problem but the ramps I am using are not very steep. Mine doesn't hang up on the roller I just don't thing the roller is a very good support for a flat front bow.












Hi Joebucko,
You got me thinking and I had to go back and grab a photo off one of your old posts on the other thread. Back then I thought maybe it was just camera angle but now it sure looks like your bunks stop well short of mine. Mine go up to within about 6" of the "o" in Mako on the trailer frame. Yours seems to stop a good 2-3' short of that. I wonder if that's what is making mine "sticky" when launching.


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## modestmike

highanddryinco said:


> Hi Joebucko,
> You got me thinking and I had to go back and grab a photo off one of your old posts on the other thread. Back then I thought maybe it was just camera angle but now it sure looks like your bunks stop well short of mine. Mine go up to within about 6" of the "o" in Mako on the trailer frame. Yours seems to stop a good 2-3' short of that. I wonder if that's what is making mine "sticky" when launching.


Good eye. Looks like his trailer is lacking a front crossmember. This is how mine is set up and I haven't had any hang ups.


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## joebucko

Good eye. My boat/trailer is an early model and it does not have the front cross member for the bunks to come up closer to the bow. My bunks are 9-10' long and seem to support the boat fine. Most of the weight is obviously in the rear of the boat but it is curious that they made this change.

Something that I am working on changing right now on the trailer is the bow eye roller and associated short safety strap that hooks to the base of the winch column. For the life of me I can't figure out what this short strap is designed to do. If the winch strap breaks it might hold the boat on the trailer assuming the strap breaks on the side closest to the vehicle but there is a 50/50 chance that the strap would break on the side closest to the boat leaving it completely unattached to the trailer. I am going to remove the short strap and add a turnbuckle/hook running from the base of the winch column to the bow eye. This should protect the boat in the event the strap breaks and will also eliminate any bounce of the bow during trailering.
I intend to replace the bow stop roller with a flat padded bow stop.


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## modestmike

My safety strap is independent of the main winch strap. The hook snap has the two straps mounted to it. I would assume that if the main strap fails, the safety should should hold.


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## joebucko

I must have been having another senior moment concerning the safety strap. For some unknown reason I thought it was configured differently. It is fine so I get to check another item off my todo list.


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## rgourley11

*bow stop*

May want to look at this bow stop. Looks like it would work.
http://www.easternmarine.com/3-x-3-jon-boat-bow-stop-black-rubber-jonblock


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## joebucko

*Mako Pro 17 console hatch cover*

Thanks rgourley11 I'll look at that bow stop.

Building on what Bryster and rgourley11 have done with the console hatch cover I added my own twist. I wanted more storage than the round hatches provided and a quicker way to access under the console so I came up with this arrangement.
1/2" Starboard, 12" X 9" Jim Black hatch cover, two stainless slide bolts.

When installed in the console opening the cover actually leans toward the stern of the boat so by tightly fitting the cover into the opening all I had to do to secure it was drill two small holes in the top corners of the console for the stainless steel bolts to slide into. The bottom can't slip out until the bolts are retracted and the top is pulled outward. The storage compartment is 11"W X 7"T X8"D.


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## cklimpt

Great work...I like it!


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## FlatsCatFL

JB, that is a fine storage application. Another future project for me to explore too.


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## FlatsCatFL

joebucko said:


> Thanks rgourley11 I'll look at that bow stop.
> 
> Building on what Bryster and rgourley11 have done with the console hatch cover I added my own twist. I wanted more storage than the round hatches provided and a quicker way to access under the console so I came up with this arrangement.
> 1/2" Starboard, 12" X 9" Jim Black hatch cover, two stainless slide bolts.
> 
> When installed in the console opening the cover actually leans toward the stern of the boat so by tightly fitting the cover into the opening all I had to do to secure it was drill two small holes in the top corners of the console for the stainless steel bolts to slide into. The bottom can't slip out until the bolts are retracted and the top is pulled outward. The storage compartment is 11"W X 7"T X8"D.


JB, is the box storage your design or pre-fab?


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## joebucko

The box is my design. 1/2" starboard just like the hatch cover. I found a cabinet maker on ebay who sells starboard cutoffs pretty cheap so I ordered two scrap pieces big enough to make the cover and box. Ebay vendor is SCRAPPLASTIC. Found the hatch at GREATLAKESSKIPPER.COM.
The console opening on my boat is only 17 5/8"w at the bottom and 17 1/2" tall. The box is sized to fit the Jim Black hatch I got from Greatlakesskipper. 
I cut the box to exactly match the Jim Black hatch so I could use the screw holes in the hatch to secure everything. Screws go through the predrilled holes in the hatch, through the starboard hatch cover and into the box on the back. Worked out pretty nice. 
Inside dims of the box are 10 3/8"W X 8"D X 7 3/8"T 

I looked at a lot of nice hatches from T-H and others but they were either too large (11"x15") or too small. The Jim Black from Greatlakesskipper seemed perfect at 12"x9".


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## FlatsCatFL

joebucko said:


> The box is my design. 1/2" starboard just like the hatch cover. I found a cabinet maker on ebay who sells starboard cutoffs pretty cheap so I ordered two scrap pieces big enough to make the cover and box. Ebay vendor is SCRAPPLASTIC. Found the hatch at GREATLAKESSKIPPER.COM.
> The console opening on my boat is only 17 5/8"w at the bottom and 17 1/2" tall. The box is sized to fit the Jim Black hatch I got from Greatlakesskipper.
> I cut the box to exactly match the Jim Black hatch so I could use the screw holes in the hatch to secure everything. Screws go through the predrilled holes in the hatch, through the starboard hatch cover and into the box on the back. Worked out pretty nice.
> Inside dims of the box are 10 3/8"W X 8"D X 7 3/8"T
> 
> I looked at a lot of nice hatches from T-H and others but they were either too large (11"x15") or too small. The Jim Black from Greatlakesskipper seemed perfect at 12"x9".


Thank you, sir. With the help from you and others my "mod" brain can stay on cruise control, lol! cheers!:cheers:


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## FlatsCatFL

*It's about time!*

Finally!!! Let the Mods begin!!! :fireworks :cheers:


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## modestmike

For those that are interested in changing out the roller bow stop, I've been looking around and it seems a winch/bow post for a pontoon boat would work. It would probably also require adding a new bunk across the width of the trailer up front to support the bow of the boat(for those with earlier models with shorter bunks). So far it's looking like it would work out well in my head....I'll probably do just that once I get my boat back from bass pro.


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## joebucko

modestmike
I saw the detailed pictures of the Bow Stop on the Shoalwater Cat. That would work. Another possible solution might be the 8" Carolina Bow Stop rollers that Stoltz makes. Let us know what you come up with.


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## Eat Sleep Fish

Okay, so I am thinking about getting my dad a radio for our Mako Skiff for fathers day. Does anyone have pictures, opinions, ideas or a write up of where you mounted yours and how. I have found one with a removable face plate and would like to possibly hide the actually radio itself under the console when we install it. We have the Pro Skiff 16 for reference. We have wanted a radio for awhile just not sure where to mount. 

Thanks.


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## MarkU

Good to see many other fellow Mako Pro Skiff owners out there! I was told I bought the first 17 pro skiff back in Nov 2011 from BPS in Pearland. I thoroughly enjoy this boat. It suits my needs perfectly. I fish West Bay, out of Sea Isle.

I do have the problem with the live well on occasions. Normally I just flip the switch from auto to manual to the off position a couple times. And it starts working again. 

The cooler seat is starting to warp on the ends of the lid. It is never stored outside. It is stored in my climate controlled fishing room. I've only use it for dry storage. Oh well, it's a fake Yeti, what do you expect?

I've added a trolling motor. Minkota remote controlled one. Pushes the boat just fine. 

I really would like to add a T Top. The only problem I see is the center console really doesn't seem strong enough for attaching cross bracing to. Anyone have any ideas or installed one?


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## Reloder28

How would you Mako Skiff owners assess the ride, the turning ability?


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## highanddryinco

Reloder28 said:


> How would you Mako Skiff owners assess the ride, the turning ability?


For a skiff, I'd say it rides darn well. I think it takes chop and waves nicely and I've been in quite a range from light chop all the way to a sudden near gale in Lake Michigan. That last one was bit hairy, :cloud: but wife, daughter and I got a couple miles into the next harbor safely with not much more than a real good soaking. Other that, it's a fairly dry ride. A crosswind will blow a little side spray at you.

As for turning...I think the reason for the 60hp max is that anything bigger would probably throw you out of the boat. :spineyes: It pretty much turns like it's on rails.

We've had a ball on this boat.


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## MarkU

I agree the ride is smooth. I normally only fish with the wife, or 1 other person. The boat turns smooth and stable. Probably 2-3 footers is the most I've been in. You may get a little spray in those conditions. I prefer to boat on calmer days. 

I love working the "flats" in West Bay. This boat gets into skinny water. That's the main reason I purchased mine.


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## Reloder28

Thanks for the reports, guys. I foresee one of these sitting in my driveway in the near future.


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## FlatsCatFL

*I love this thread*

Thanks many times, Bryster for starting this thread. I think single handedly you and other Pro Skiff owners-mainly in Texas land-have formed a Mako Pro Skiff Nation following. Tracker Marine should be sending you guys bonus referral checks, lol!!

I am extremely happy to finally own a skiff-even with name Mako on it- that has the ability to ALMOST pole the most shallow waters with the best dedicated MicroSkiffs AND be able to tackle the little snot outside for offshore quarry. All this with a consistently dry and comfortable ride. Let's not forget, even the most expensive shallow freeboard vessels out there will get you wet in a chop with a wind in your face.

Mako, to the chagrin of all of it's old school naysayers, has produced one of the most versatile, and affordable(!!!!) coastal vessel packages with the MPS17. The re-invention of the "Hickman Sled Hull" nee Advanced Inverted Hull, may very well, finally have it's hey-day in the form of the Mako Pro Skiff.

Tight lines all, Cheers!


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## FlatsCatFL

*Transducer Routing Question*

Anyone drill a hole at the top of the transom to route the wiring just under the rear deck for the FF/SONAR unit?


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## Lawson4x454

Is the back deck strong enough for a poling platform? That will be my deciding factor.


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## JSF

Would love to own one of these boats in the future

Sent sarcastically from my S3 via crapatalk


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## modestmike

Lawson4x454 said:


> Is the back deck strong enough for a poling platform? That will be my deciding factor.


Mudslinger12 has one mounted on his.


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## deano77511

Eat Sleep Fish said:


> We have the 16' so no front hatch. We added hydrofoil tabs to our motor and we really like them.


I have a 25 four stoke Yamaha , do you think it would be enough motor for a 16 ft hull like yours . 
Thinking of going with a j16 Carolina skiff , but I like the way these mako flats look !!!!!!


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## modestmike

deano5x said:


> I have a 25 four stoke Yamaha , do you think it would be enough motor for a 16 ft hull like yours .
> Thinking of going with a j16 Carolina skiff , but I like the way these mako flats look !!!!!!


I have a 17' with a mercury 25 4 stroke. It takes me where I need to go with great fuel consumption. I can push it close to 21 mph running solo and usually around 17-19 with my wife,kids and.....all the **** they "need".


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## joebucko

FlatsCatFl
I ran my transducer wiring through the existing deck hole with the other control wiring/fuel line then just screwed it to the deck and over the transom since it is out of the way behind all this other stuff.


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## deano77511

modestmike said:


> I have a 17' with a mercury 25 4 stroke. It takes me where I need to go with great fuel consumption. I can push it close to 21 mph running solo and usually around 17-19 with my wife,kids and.....all the **** they "need".


Sounds good , guess I need to find me a 16 ft mako flats hull


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## texasislandboy

modestmike said:


> I have a 17' with a mercury 25 4 stroke. It takes me where I need to go with great fuel consumption. I can push it close to 21 mph running solo and usually around 17-19 with my wife,kids and.....all the **** they "need".


Saw you over at quick stop the other day. Good looking little boat! I did see you have a factory prop. You should look at upgrading your prop I bet it would help your hole shot.


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## modestmike

texasislandboy said:


> Saw you over at quick stop the other day. Good looking little boat! I did see you have a factory prop. You should look at upgrading your prop I bet it would help your hole shot.


I'm looking into a mercury spitfire 4 blade prop. Next time you see my boat stop by.


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## joebucko

*Megaware keelGuards not for Mako ProSkiff*

I ordered two 5ft Keelguards for my *Mako* *Pro* *Skiff* only to find out after receiving them that Keelguards do not fit all boats including anything resembling a catamaran. This was not apparent from the marketing information I reviewed. Fortunately I had contacted Megaware before I started installation and they were very helpful in looking at pictures of my hull before telling me not to attempt an install.

I am getting a little wear on my keels at the very front where they flatten out. I use concrete ramps and when I launch by myself I float the boat off the trailer then pull the boat gently up on the ramp. In the future I will drive it off the trailer and use the dock.

Anybody else having a similar problem and what have you done about it?


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## yellowskeeter

joebucko said:


> I ordered two 5ft Keelguards for my *Mako* *Pro* *Skiff* only to find out after receiving them that Keelguards do not fit all boats including anything resembling a catamaran. This was not apparent from the marketing information I reviewed. Fortunately I had contacted Megaware before I started installation and they were very helpful in looking at pictures of my hull before telling me not to attempt an install.
> 
> I am getting a little wear on my keels at the very front where they flatten out. I use concrete ramps and when I launch by myself I float the boat off the trailer then pull the boat gently up on the ramp. In the future I will drive it off the trailer and use the dock.
> 
> Anybody else having a similar problem and what have you done about it?


as you stated, stop using concrete as a landing pad. The though makes me pucker up!


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## modestmike

So....I fished near the swing bridge in Port Isabel today, with great success, and had a run in with a nasty oil patch coming from the bridge. I was not happy when I trailered the boat and saw the "damage". I was worried that it would be really difficult to remove but, it was doable with a little bit of elbow grease. 

Should I call it in and report the oil in the water? Who do I call? GLO? TPWL? GW?

Edit: oooops. I meant to put this in the other mako skiff thread.


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## FlatsCatFL

joebucko said:


> FlatsCatFl
> I ran my transducer wiring through the existing deck hole with the other control wiring/fuel line then just screwed it to the deck and over the transom since it is out of the way behind all this other stuff.


Thanks joe bucko for the feedback. I'll probably end up doing the same thing. When I posted that question I was having an obsessive moment about keeping the rear deck as uncluttered as possible. A small wire and p-clips beats a hole in the transom every time. Cheers!


----------



## texasislandboy

modestmike said:


> So....I fished near the swing bridge in Port Isabel today, with great success, and had a run in with a nasty oil patch coming from the bridge. I was not happy when I trailered the boat and saw the "damage". I was worried that it would be really difficult to remove but, it was doable with a little bit of elbow grease.
> 
> Should I call it in and report the oil in the water? Who do I call? GLO? TPWL? GW?
> 
> Edit: oooops. I meant to put this in the other mako skiff thread.


How many skipjack did you hook up with? They are thick there


----------



## modestmike

texasislandboy said:


> How many skipjack did you hook up with? They are thick there


One or two at the swing bridge. 
Caught 15+ at the old bridge.


----------



## texasislandboy

modestmike said:


> One or two at the swing bridge.
> Caught 15+ at the old bridge.


haha ya They get stacked up in there sometimes. Those 3 footers are fun but bleed all over the boat..


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*A Mod Idea*

Has anyone else considered this mod for the 17 Pro Skiff: a) Moving the starting battery under the console, and b) replacing the 6 gal. fuel tank with a low profile 12 gal. centered under the rear casting deck?


----------



## OldManOwen

Hello guys,
I purchased a "Stern Saver" and i'm installing it today, that part is straight forward. My question for all of you is how did you run the transducer down to it? The only way I can see doing it without drilling a 1/2" hole in my transom is routing it out the "boot" where the cables for the engine and steering go through the aft deck. From that point do I just route it over the back of the boat? There is a "lip" there and I cant think of a good way to keep it from flapping around. Pics would be awesome if any of you have any, all the ones I have seen are just close ups of the Transducer mounted to the Stern Saver itself. Also how in the flip do I get that transducer cable pulled through the tube up to the CC opening? 

Thanks guys!

Nathan M Owen
SSGT USMC RETIRED

Katie Couric, while interviewing a Marine sniper, asked: 

"What do you feel when you shoot a terrorist?" 

The Marine shrugged and replied: "Recoil."


----------



## joebucko

OMO,
If you still need it I will try and take a picture of my transducer routing setup tomorrow but I did exactly what you suggested.

I ran my transducer connector(the part for power and connection to the control head) down through the rubber boot with the rest of the engine/steering cables then pulled it through the conduit under the floor and up into the console opening. I left the transducer dangling off the stern until it was pulled and connected. I then mounted the transducer on transom and secured the cable with a couple of plastic wire holders. I'll look tomorrow but I think I used one plastic wire holder on the rear deck as well. My transducer cable is secure but not real tight. I left enough slack at the actual transducer to allow it to kick up if I hit something.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*Transducer questions*

Hello OMO,
To pull your transducer wire through the rigging tube you'll need 15' of metal 'fish tape'. You won't find it that length retail so whatever you buy just pull off @ 15' and bend it back and forth until it breaks. Push the tape in from the console side, it really helps if you have a second person at the stern end to facilitate locating and helping the fish tape end through. Connect a secondary 'next time' pull string for future pulls with your main pull for future use.

As for fastening the transducer wiring to the transom I used black UV resistant adhesive squares and black nylon wire ties. On the rear platform I used black UV resistant P clips and SS screws.

I'll snap some follow up photos this weekend to post. Cheers!


----------



## OldManOwen

Hey guys thanks for the help!
I went and got a 25' "fish" at Ace Hardware for $19 and fed it through from CC to transom in about 2 minutes. What a nice tool that is! I did just like you said and ran it down through the rear deck with the outboard/steering controls and then up through the CC to where the Humminbird will be mounted. I have not mounted the transducer yet because I wanted to let the Stern Saver cure overnight. 
My only questions now are how do I account for the stern not being perpendicular to the side of the boat, I don't have a way to make the nice "wedge" the way that was shown earlier. Would a 1/4" thick plastic washer under the mount work OK? Still trying to figure that one out.
Also, will the 3M stick on cable "ties" work, was thinking of 1 or 2 on the transom and 1 on the rear deck and then just zip tying the remaining cable in a neat bundle underneath the rear deck to the larger cables running through that black boot.
Sorry if that was to descriptive, just want to get this right the first time, big step up for me from a 20 year old 12' aluminum V with a 7.5 HP Merc hehe.

Thanks guys!

Nathan M Owen
SSGT USMC RETIRED

Katie Couric, while interviewing a Marine sniper, asked: 

"What do you feel when you shoot a terrorist?" 

The Marine shrugged and replied: "Recoil."


----------



## joebucko

I would have preferred stick-ons but apparently couldn't get the right kind for exterior/marine use so I resorted to small stainless screws and plastic wire retainers. Screw holes sealed with 3m5200. 

Assuming your Humminbird bracket is the same as mine the starboard(outside edge) side of the transducer mounting bracket needs to be about 1/2" higher than the inside edge to position it properly. You might be able to shim it with washers OR I can cut one of the wedge shims for you and mail it to you. I'll send you one for $5 which includes postage and the padded envelope. 

1. Don't worry about shimming it initially. You need to be more concerned with setting the transducer bracket cogs/wheels based on the vertical angle of the transom following the directions in the installation instructions. 
2. Then you need to be concerned about getting the transducer positioned on the SternSaver low enough into the water to get a dependable reading on your Humminbird.
3. Once it is mounted properly you can worry about shimming since the shim will just slip behind the existing bracket and use the same screw holes as the bracket.

Let me know if you want one of the white starboard wedge shims.


----------



## OldManOwen

joebucko said:


> I would have preferred stick-ons but apparently couldn't get the right kind for exterior/marine use so I resorted to small stainless screws and plastic wire retainers. Screw holes sealed with 3m5200.
> 
> Assuming your Humminbird bracket is the same as mine the starboard(outside edge) side of the transducer mounting bracket needs to be about 1/2" higher than the inside edge to position it properly. You might be able to shim it with washers OR I can cut one of the wedge shims for you and mail it to you. I'll send you one for $5 which includes postage and the padded envelope.
> 
> 1. Don't worry about shimming it initially. You need to be more concerned with setting the transducer bracket cogs/wheels based on the vertical angle of the transom following the directions in the installation instructions.
> 2. Then you need to be concerned about getting the transducer positioned on the SternSaver low enough into the water to get a dependable reading on your Humminbird.
> 3. Once it is mounted properly you can worry about shimming since the shim will just slip behind the existing bracket and use the same screw holes as the bracket.
> 
> Let me know if you want one of the white starboard wedge shims.


joebucko,
That would be awesome! my Pay-Pal is [email protected] if you want to send me an invoice. If you don't have Pay-Pal and just want a check PM me please and i'll send one out today. I wish I wasn't all the way in TN, you guys rock!

Nathan M Owen
SSGT USMC RETIRED

Katie Couric, while interviewing a Marine sniper, asked:

"What do you feel when you shoot a terrorist?"

The Marine shrugged and replied: "Recoil."


----------



## redds

has anyone fished this in lake sabine - interested in getting one butthis looks like it could be a wet ride in chop -
had a carolina skiff and it was wet in chop so wondering about the mako


----------



## FlatsCatFL

redds said:


> has anyone fished this in lake sabine - interested in getting one butthis looks like it could be a wet ride in chop -
> had a carolina skiff and it was wet in chop so wondering about the mako


redds, look at the thread "Mako Pro Skiff day "0" to get a feel for how this craft handles from customer feedback.


----------



## OldManOwen

I would like to give a special thanks to joebucko! Joe I just got the shim in the mail and it looks great! I'm going to run down to Ace Hardware and pick up a longer screw for the right hand side and tighten it back down. Thank you again so much for helping out! 

Nathan M Owen
SSGT USMC RET

Katie Couric while interviewing a Marine Sniper, asked:
"What do you feel when you shoot a terrorist?"
The Marine shrugged and replied: "Recoil."


----------



## Eat Sleep Fish

Do you guys have some recommendations on trolling motors. Dad and I have a 16' Pro Skiff and want a saltwater edition trolling motor that's 12volt we can mount or clamp on the side or on the bow. Also any pics of you guys who have trolling motors on your skiffs would be appreciated.


----------



## DCAVA

*Trolling motor*

I am looking into a trolling motor for my 17' mako skiff. I'm thinking 75lbs of thrust; what do u guys think. There is always a current in the laguna madre and winds are usually strong. Haven't done any other mods on my rig, other that a 12gal. Reseve fuel tank. Running stock and running strong!! My job doesn't allow me time for much.
I read in the paper that sept. 1st a new law goes into effect in texas on tearing up native grasses in the bay, 1st class misdemeanor!! This is the reason i'm gonna rig up a trolling motor; the ones with high thrust are kinda high dollar, but i need it now w/ this new law .
need some feedback, cause i've never bought one of these. thanks


----------



## OldManOwen

Minn Kota 24v 80# with iPilot and it's amazing! If you have strong current and any kind of wind I can't imagine you would want to go less than the 24v and 80#. With iPilot you can set a bearing and the TM will hold it regardless of wind or current. The feature I use most is the "Anchor Lock" press it once and you will not move from that spot. The TM will use it's onboard GPS to hold you in the position, it's very nice. Mine is the freshwater version, the Terrova, I believe the one you want is called the Riptide. I hope that helps some.


Nathan M Owen
SSGT USMC RET

Katie Couric while interviewing a Marine Sniper, asked:
"What do you feel when you shoot a terrorist?"
The Marine shrugged and replied: "Recoil."


----------



## DCAVA

Thanks for the input, that's probly a $8-900 rig, correct? I've gotta get it nonetheless, class a misdemeanor, that's nuts!!


----------



## OldManOwen

DCAVA said:


> Thanks for the input, that's probly a $8-900 rig, correct? I've gotta get it nonetheless, class a misdemeanor, that's nuts!!


I'm not sure on the Saltwater versions (Riptide), they are not cheap though! Try and get a ride with someone who has the Riptide with iPilot, you will be impressed I promise. I used mine for 6 hours last weekend and the batteries were at 90% when I got home and plugged in. At the 10 setting my Mako Pro Skiff 17 will do 3 MPH on GPS. I would check BPS for prices, mine was about $1,500, expensive for sure but you get what you pay for. Never having to throw an anchor into the water is awesome.

Nathan M Owen
SSGT USMC RET

Katie Couric while interviewing a Marine Sniper, asked:
"What do you feel when you shoot a terrorist?"
The Marine shrugged and replied: "Recoil."


----------



## DCAVA

*Trolling Motor*

Dang, that's high dollar for a troller. But, like you said, I'll get what I pay for. Anyhow, thanks for the info. I'm gonna research more on these, I have read that Minn Kota is one of the best out there.


----------



## DCAVA

Did anyone fish port mansfield area yesterday afternoon? Terrible afternoon, tried 4 spots from green island to the saucer and nothing!! Weird north wind blowing blowing opposite of current, then the almost full moon was up by 6:30pm?? I think all these odd conditions, and the depression in the gulf screwed things up. All the boats we saw/talked to got skunked or 1 - 2 small reds & trout.


----------



## joebucko

I have the Minn Kota Terrova 55lb with iPilot and it is the best thing I on my boat. The SpotLock(anchor) is great but I use the Autopilot more than any other feature. It can record 6 tracks up to 2miles long each and if you want to fish one of the saved tracks just tell it which track and which end of the track you want to fish(you can go from the Start to the End or the End to the Start) and it effortlessly navigates you precisely along that course.

My 55# will drag my Pro17 at 2.5mph on the lake. If I was fishing your water I'd get the 80# with a 54" shaft. Mine is 45" and I believe it would do fine for you but in extreme chop I have to lower it all the way down to keep the prop from ventilating. Of course in that kind of chop you are going to need more than a trolling motor anyway.

I'd look at both 80# saltwater models that have iPilot. The Riptide version of the Terrova will be a little less expensive.


----------



## DCAVA

Thanks Joe, I want the troller primarilly to get to the skinny spots off the intracoastal; I can turn off the outboard and raise it so as not to tear up the natural grasses/vegetation once this new law takes effect; once in 2 feet of water or less there is virtually no chop, unless there is high winds out there. but, gotta fight currents getting in/out.


----------



## joebucko

I forgot to mention the convenience of the remote control that hangs around your neck. I wasn't sure I'd like the remote(old men get a bit set in their ways). The Terrova comes with both a foot pedal and a remote. After my first trip I disconnected the foot pedal and stowed it for emergency use. The remote is amazing. No more fumbling around trying to steer the motor with my foot or by hand. I engage the autopilot and set my speed then just fish. Occasional course or speed corrections are just a touch on the remote. 

When I have a fishing companion he usually takes the bow and I fish the stern but I still control the motor with the remote from the stern. Not a big deal for you flats boys in 2ft of water but for someone fishing deeper water from the stern casting platform I can clearly see my Sonar on the console. Since I am literally standing directly over the transducer if I spot a school of bait fish with something chasing them I can jig/drop shot straight down and can follow my lure.

I have had both foot controlled trolling motors and hand controlled motors and I can tell you that the iPilot+remote equals a whole lot more fishing time with a lot less work.


----------



## DCAVA

Sounds like a great setup, now i gotta sell some cars, make $, and then close my wife on the expense. If momma's happy, life is peaches!!


----------



## OldManOwen

I forgot to mention the remote, thank you for reminding me joebucko! In my mind the remote is priceless! I can wear it around my neck or use the clip to attach it to my shorts and I always know what the TM is doing. I don't have a seat up front and find it difficult to balance on one foot and use the foot pedal standing up so I use the remote exclusively. Also if you have a Humminbird you can link the TM to it and control it from there as well. It will fallow a depth contour on the map around an island or shelf when linked up like this. I don't think Minn Kota has a peer, it's in a league of its own. If I were you i'd get the 24v 80# because you NEVER have to worry about batteries, I could use mine over a 3 day weekend if I wanted and not have to charge up until I came home Sunday night. I also like the feeling of knowing that if something happens with the outboard while i'm out alone the TM will get me all the way back to the truck, even if it's only 3 MPH. If it were me I would save up and buy the one you really wanted the first time. Just my 2 cents. 


Nathan M Owen
SSGT USMC RET

Katie Couric while interviewing a Marine Sniper, asked:
"What do you feel when you shoot a terrorist?"
The Marine shrugged and replied: "Recoil."


----------



## DCAVA

How do these things operate, do I need to buy/mount a spare battery? I like the idea of the remote and the idea of cruising the skinny flats under a controlled drift, instead of a drift bag and wind direction dictating the boats drift pattern. Also, I tend to splurge on stuff on a whim, my wife gets after me sometimes, but, I'm the one who works! Hope she don't read this !! Lol


----------



## FlyItAll

*Agree on iPilot Motors*

I couldn't agree more with the positive comments about the Minn Kota iPilot motors. I finally got my Riptide SP installed and used it for the first time this weekend....it exceeds my expectations! I got the 55# version because it is the highest thrust you can get with 12v and I didn't want to carry 2 batteries. For my lake use, it is perfect. I ran it for about 3 hours with half of that time at full speed and my size 27 battery was down 40%. A foot control is an option on the SP and I was certain I would need it for the "pound the banks" type of bass fishing I like to do, but after using the track recording feature and then automatically following the track while I ignored the boat and just fished, I will never use a foot control! I mounted my motor with the quick release puck system which also works great. I used starboard to level things out and ended up mounting the puck on a continuous flat piece of 1" starboard. Very happy with my fishing boat! And my wife is very happy with our "runabout" when I pull off the trolling motor and just sightsee and swim.


----------



## joebucko

Nice installation Flyitall. 
I have a group27 battery as well and have never come close to running out of juice. In my opinion the remote makes a foot control obsolete. I carry an extra battery for the remote just in case but have been using my remote for almost a year now and am still on the original battery.


----------



## mudslinger12

my rig...


----------



## joebucko

Nice clean look Mudslinger12. How is the bow cooler attached?


----------



## daanglerguy

That rear platform, what are it's measurement? Would like to do that to mine one of these days.


----------



## fishingmagnet

*Hatch cover at center console question*

I have a question for joebucko and bryster who created the cover for their opening. how did you get the shape of the cover to fit nicely over the opening? did it involves trial and error to trim the cover edges to fit reasonably over the contour.

thanks,


----------



## joebucko

Fishingmagnet
I followed Bryster's lead when I made mine. The pattern for the opening is easy to make with just a piece of cardboard. 
Measure the width of the opening at the bottom and top, then measure the height at the center point of the opening. Cut your cardboard to that size, crawl into the boat with the cardboard and a pair of scissors and gently trim away the cardboard until you get the fit you want. Probably won't take you 5 minutes.


----------



## Nightrain

*platform*

Any way we can get pictures of your platform mounting? Had any issues with it? Deck flex?


----------



## flityr

Hello guys. I ordered my 2015 pro17 a few weeks ago then found this thread + the 190 pages upstairs and read it all. Great ideas! Love the cover and box built to fix up that gape in the console. 
Haven't taken delivery yet but planning ahead. (Get it in a couple weeks)

So I see that at least three of you have ipilot. 
I bought ipilot in power drive v2 US2 and here is my question;
Since the us2 works via its own transducer + communicates with the humminbird,
I need to run a wire from the bow mounted V2 to the humminbird which will be dash mounted. How do I do that?
It does not sound like there is anywhere to run the wire from bow to centre console. 
I'm putting 1 battery + charger up front already. 
Tks


----------



## joebucko

flityr said:


> Hello guys. I ordered my 2015 pro17 a few weeks ago then found this thread + the 190 pages upstairs and read it all. Great ideas! Love the cover and box built to fix up that gape in the console.
> Haven't taken delivery yet but planning ahead. (Get it in a couple weeks)
> 
> So I see that at least three of you have ipilot.
> I bought ipilot in power drive v2 US2 and here is my question;
> Since the us2 works via its own transducer + communicates with the humminbird,
> I need to run a wire from the bow mounted V2 to the humminbird which will be dash mounted. How do I do that?
> It does not sound like there is anywhere to run the wire from bow to centre console.
> I'm putting 1 battery + charger up front already.
> Tks


Congratulations on your soon to be New Boat. After reading the 190+ pages of are an honorary ProSkiff Expert. It will make it much easier to customize your boat when you get it. As for wiring from the console to the bow, I have not figured out how to accomplish that. I don't believe any other owner has either. I would like to connect my Terrova to my Humminbird 999 so if you figure it out please let us know.

I have two batteries on my boat. Front mounted Deepcycle and stern mounted starting battery. I installed a Guest 2 bank charger on the wall under the front deck and connected one set of leads to the deepcycle battery. I took a piece of extension cord and connected one end to the 2nd set of leads. I then got an inexpensive trolling motor plug and receptacle from Academy and connected the plug to the other end of the extension cord. The receptacle I attached to the stern starting battery so that it hangs out of the battery box. The extension cord is just long enough to reach from the front to the starting battery. I coil up the cord and stow it behind the deepcycle battery when not in use.
When I need to charge I uncoil the extension cord and plug it into the starter battery. Once connected I plug the charger in and both batteries get charged.


----------



## flityr

Thanks for your reply. 
I'm kinda thinking that it's not unimaginable that I end up marine-gooping/ a piece of plastic conduit(sliced in half) to the centreline in front of the live well /seat to run the wire in. We'll see when I get it but from all I've read here it looks like that may be the only option. At least if I don't like it it's not permanent. 

Being a fly guy I'm interested in whether anyone has replaced the bow cleats with recessing ones like the guy did on the tip of the bow? The cleats are on a depression on the forward gunwale. Can you get at the (bolts) whatever holds them in place. 
Also, having trouble finding rod holders for fly rods that won't require screwing something on the inside hull. Thoughts?

Oh, and here's something that might be news for some. So I called to change up the motor for a salt water version (though I live in inland Canada the boat will no doubt find its way to FL or LA at some point) so they called back and told me that all the new Mercury Motors now are salt/fresh. They are streamlining operations so that they don't have salt only/ fresh only engines. Was that common knowledge or is this news?


----------



## frankcr

I installed a bow light on the bow and ran the wire in plastic conduit from the bow to the stern. The conduit runs inside the rolled gunnels and is out of sight and protected from damage. Very easy to do.


----------



## joebucko

frankcr said:


> I installed a bow light on the bow and ran the wire in plastic conduit from the bow to the stern. The conduit runs inside the rolled gunnels and is out of sight and protected from damage. Very easy to do.


Could you post a few pictures of this for us Frank. I'd like to see how your wiring enters the bow and stern as well as how you have the conduit attached.
Thanks


----------



## FlyItAll

flityr said:


> Thanks for your reply.
> I'm kinda thinking that it's not unimaginable that I end up marine-gooping/ a piece of plastic conduit(sliced in half) to the centreline in front of the live well /seat to run the wire in. We'll see when I get it but from all I've read here it looks like that may be the only option. At least if I don't like it it's not permanent.
> 
> Being a fly guy I'm interested in whether anyone has replaced the bow cleats with recessing ones like the guy did on the tip of the bow? The cleats are on a depression on the forward gunwale. Can you get at the (bolts) whatever holds them in place.
> Also, having trouble finding rod holders for fly rods that won't require screwing something on the inside hull. Thoughts?
> 
> Oh, and here's something that might be news for some. So I called to change up the motor for a salt water version (though I live in inland Canada the boat will no doubt find its way to FL or LA at some point) so they called back and told me that all the new Mercury Motors now are salt/fresh. They are streamlining operations so that they don't have salt only/ fresh only engines. Was that common knowledge or is this news?


Welcome to the thread Flityr. I fly fish out of my 17 ft Pro Skiff and love it. You can easily make fly rod holders with 1 1/4" pvc that slip into the existing black rod holders on the boat and you can carry 4 fully rigged rods straight up. I cut a slot in the pvc about 5" long and 9/16" wide. This size fits my smaller rods snuggly which don't have fighting butts. For any rods with fighting butts, add a 1 1/4" x 1 1/2" fitting and cut your slot in the 1 1/2" pvc. When I trailer my boat or when I put up my bimini, I carry my rods horizontally on the inside using a suction cup mount called a SeaSucker. Works out well for me. Good luck!


----------



## flityr

I was looking at the sea suckers. They don't fall off?
Thanks for the ideas.


----------



## atexan

Rainy day mods
I had some small projects sitting around I managed to tackle today. My little bro works for a graphics shop so I had him cut me some custom letters in black vinyl. I also got around to mounting the stern saver.






















Next week I work on mounting the Lowrance unit.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

flityr said:


> I was looking at the sea suckers. They don't fall off?
> Thanks for the ideas.


Flityr, congrats on the new to be sled. I also have the SeaSucker horizontal rod holders. They do not fall off when properly applied. They are a little pricy, but def relieve the angst of having to drill mounting holes into your new baby. Cheers!


----------



## flityr

Well actually no congratulations are due yet. They told me the boat would be two weeks before I bought it and when I bought it they said it would be four weeks because there were no 2014s left. 
Now six weeks later I still don't have my boat. So I went into BPS and told them I have run out of season. I requested that they deliver the boat in April or May. 
That was on Monday the guy said he would call me to confirm and just like all the other times he told me he would call me to update me he has not.


----------



## Eat Sleep Fish

I'm sure it's been mentioned but I wanted to get some opinions and input from those experienced with what I am wondering.

I have the 16' pro skiff and I really want to install or have installed a bow mount trolling motor. Boat mainly sees salt but will see fresh at some point in its life. Not looking for a really strong thrust or high volt. Maybe 12-24 volt and a 55lb thrust? I primarily fish clear lake, nassau bay, clear creek and the bay a little. Just wondering if anyone has some good input on brands and models and possibly where to go to have installed or buy the trolling motor in the clear lake area, don't mind traveling a little and don't mind installing the motor myself either. 

Thanks 2Coolers!


----------



## Jack's Pocket

Eat Sleep Fish said:


> I'm sure it's been mentioned but I wanted to get some opinions and input from those experienced with what I am wondering.
> 
> I have the 16' pro skiff and I really want to install or have installed a bow mount trolling motor. Boat mainly sees salt but will see fresh at some point in its life. Not looking for a really strong thrust or high volt. Maybe 12-24 volt and a 55lb thrust? I primarily fish clear lake, nassau bay, clear creek and the bay a little. Just wondering if anyone has some good input on brands and models and possibly where to go to have installed or buy the trolling motor in the clear lake area, don't mind traveling a little and don't mind installing the motor myself either.
> 
> Thanks 2Coolers!


I run a 16 foot with a 55 pound Minn Kota moves the boat great


----------



## Eat Sleep Fish

Any tips on mounting and hardware? You run it to a separate battery or the same one that powers the boat?


----------



## atexan

I have 55lb / 12 volt riptide SE mounted independent of the other electrical. Runs all day and pushes my Pro 17' with acceptable speed. I'm not trying to win any races with it. I bought the quick release plate as piece of mind. My dad had a TM stolen from a boat when I was a kid and I still remember it.


----------



## Eat Sleep Fish

atexan said:


> I have 55lb / 12 volt riptide SE mounted independent of the other electrical. Runs all day and pushes my Pro 17' with acceptable speed. I'm not trying to win any races with it. I bought the quick release plate as piece of mind. My dad had a TM stolen from a boat when I was a kid and I still remember it.


Do you run a perko switch?


----------



## atexan

No switch. Just unplug the TM when not in use. I have a Battery Minder that's keeps the charge fresh.


----------



## joebucko

Eat Sleep Fish said:


> Do you run a perko switch?


I run a 55# thrust Terrova iPilot on a Gp27 Interstate DC battery and have never used more than 25% of the charge in a day of fishing. Like most my DC battery is located on the starboard side of the boat under the front deck. I installed a Guest 2 Bank charger on the wall under the front deck and direct connected the DC to the charger. Since there is no practical way to run concealed wires from the bow to the console or stern I made an extension cord for the starting battery and when I get home I just uncoil the cord, stretch it to the stern and connect it to the starter battery with a trolling motor plug I left hanging out of the starter battery box. Then just plug in the charger and leave it until my next trip. When using the boat I coil the extension cord and stow out of the way behind the DC battery under the bow.


----------



## Eat Sleep Fish

Okay great that looks like a pretty good setup. I am pretty new to trolling motors and the electrical part of it, I just want to make sure I know what to get and how to set it up correctly. I know I want to run the trolling motor on its own battery and I like the idea of the charger on board as well.


----------



## Eat Sleep Fish

What do you guys think about having a battery for the trolling motor but running a perko switch to eliminate the need for an on board charger?


----------



## Eat Sleep Fish

Eat Sleep Fish said:


> What do you guys think about having a battery for the trolling motor but running a perko switch to eliminate the need for an on board charger?


I ask because I store my boat in a slip and would like to not have to take the battery in and out to take home and charge.


----------



## Eat Sleep Fish

I'll be installing a transom mount minn kota trolling motor this weekend hopefully, going on with a transom mount bracket ordered online. Can't wait to get it installed and use it.


----------



## frankcr

We have a transom mount and it is a pain, so I would recommend you consider a bow mount.


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## Eat Sleep Fish

Bow mount was to expensive for my needs, I wanted to be able to bring my motor home easily as well so the transom mount was best bet to me. All I needed was very basic, something to move my boat a little without having to anchor and fish and I couldn't justify the costs for a bow mount when I only wanted a basic setup. Down the line I may go bow mount if needed.


----------



## Eat Sleep Fish

*Transom Mount Trolling Motor*

Here are some pictures of our trolling motor and mount setup. Its not finished yet but we are close, should have it finished up this week or next weekend. We will be placing the battery right under the front deck on the port side and as you can see and we are running the wires through the deck and out underneath. We will be putting a grommet in the deck for the wires to run through to give it a cleaner look and also putting some thicker washers on underneath the mount. So far seems like a good setup, I just wanted something simple and easy to start trolling around so I did not have to drift or anchor as often. Will have more updates and pictures once finished. Plan to do some videos as well. I know, boat needs a bath.

Thanks!


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## frankcr

So you are actually mounting the motor on the bow where it will pull the boat forward rather than pushing from the stern? There are many of those in use which have reversible control heads. My buddy has one on his Carolina Skiff which works very well.

Ours is mounted on the transom and is a pain to use.


----------



## Eat Sleep Fish

frankcr said:


> So you are actually mounting the motor on the bow where it will pull the boat forward rather than pushing from the stern? There are many of those in use which have reversible control heads. My buddy has one on his Carolina Skiff which works very well.
> 
> Ours is mounted on the transom and is a pain to use.


Yes sir you are correct, I probably did not clarify that when I originally posted sorry about that. We did reverse the head controls too, loosen one screw and nut then twist it around and re-tighten, super easy.The mount is fixed there and then I can just bring my motor and battery with me when I want to take it out. Heaviest thing is the battery which is not that big of a deal to me to load up and carry out. The trolling motor itself is pretty light weight too so that's a plus and I like the idea of being able to bring my motor home and keep it clean and out of the elements each time I run it. The trolling motor easily tilts up and slides back too when one wants to pick up and run to another spot. I considered mounting it close to either the port or starboard side but right in the center seemed to be a good bet and plenty of room to still stand and maneuver around to fish. As you can see we did use a a piece of 2x4 to raise the mount we bought because otherwise the trolling motor would hit the bow of the boat because the mount would sit to far back.


----------



## frankcr

You have a nice and useful installation.

Our Minn Koto is a bow mount with ipilot for which we made a mount on the transom, as my wife likes to throw a cast net and did not want it in the way. It is a pain to steer as wind and currents fight you constantly. I will need to fabricate a mount on the bow to get the best use of the motor. I considered the same motor you have due to simplicity, but we already have the ipilot.


----------



## Eat Sleep Fish

frankcr said:


> You have a nice and useful installation.
> 
> Our Minn Koto is a bow mount with ipilot for which we made a mount on the transom, as my wife likes to throw a cast net and did not want it in the way. It is a pain to steer as wind and currents fight you constantly. I will need to fabricate a mount on the bow to get the best use of the motor. I considered the same motor you have due to simplicity, but we already have the ipilot.


Down the line I may go bow mount but for now I am hoping/thinking this setup should work out pretty well. The mount is decent and will work but if I had the resources I would have built my own, it will get the job done and work fine but for those with a little craftsmen experience and some DIY skills they could probably fabricate something better. I bet you could come up with something for your motor to be used on the bow and transom so you could switch when you felt like it.


----------



## Part Timer

Anything yall mako owners would have added from the factory, or that you would have wish to have done yourself if you could do it all over again? Thinking about jumping onto the Skiff wagon with all of these awesome reviews. Debating on going bone stock and doing all the upgrades on the side. Trolling motor, GPS, etc. Yall make them look too easy!


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## MONSTER369

*New mako owner intro*

How are you guys doing i am new to this website and i you guys have convinced me to be a new owner of a 2014 mako skiff 17. I have been having trouble with the live well like most of you but i have found out how to fix it through you all help so il be going to BPS so they can fix it. Also i am going to be doing alot of night fishing and i was wondering how you guys set up the onboard charging modules and how to set up the gps/sonars? mostly intrested in how to hide the cables and so on? Also i am going to be installing a jack plate is it worth it or should i leave it as is ? And for the last question for the power pole how does that set up go do you need to also add a hydraulic pump or does everything come imcluded with the power pole? Thank you very much for your help i am sorry for the questions probably dumb but i am new to boating


----------



## joebucko

MONSTER369 said:


> How are you guys doing i am new to this website and i you guys have convinced me to be a new owner of a 2014 mako skiff 17. I have been having trouble with the live well like most of you but i have found out how to fix it through you all help so il be going to BPS so they can fix it. Also i am going to be doing alot of night fishing and i was wondering how you guys set up the onboard charging modules and how to set up the gps/sonars? mostly intrested in how to hide the cables and so on? Also i am going to be installing a jack plate is it worth it or should i leave it as is ? And for the last question for the power pole how does that set up go do you need to also add a hydraulic pump or does everything come imcluded with the power pole? Thank you very much for your help i am sorry for the questions probably dumb but i am new to boating


I'll try and address some of your questions.
First off there is no wiring tube between the bow and the center console so there is no way to run wiring from the bow to console without it being seen.

I have a trolling motor on the port side of the bow and my battery is mounted under the front deck on the starboard side. I mounted a two bank charger on the wall under the front deck and hooked my TM battery to that. I then made an extension cord to run from the bow charger to the starter battery in the stern. At home I just unroll the cord and plug the stern battery into the charger then the charger into a 120v power cord. This arrangement works well for me. When using the boat the cord is rolled up and stowed behind the bow mounted battery case.

If you want a fish finder on the bow the most practical solution is to run it from either your TM battery or a smaller 12v battery dedicated to the FF. I originally had a small unit on the bow but really did not use it because I added a Humminbird 999si to the console and use that exclusively. Wiring for the HB999 runs through the cable tube that goes from the console to the stern. It is a PITA to run wiring through this already tight tube but can be done with a little sweat. One hint is to leave a messenger/pulling cord in the tube when you are done for future pulls.

The jackplate is a personal preference. It won't get you much performance wise. I originally added a manual JP but just recently upgraded to an Atlas Micro Jacker hydraulic JP. The hydraulic JP allows me to lower the motor very deep in the water and get my bow pretty high when running through heavy chop. Under calmer conditions I can raise the engine higher and get several 100 more RPMs and a little more top end speed. It also allows the boat to run just a littler skinnier if that is something you need.
The biggest benefit of a JP for me was the ability to mount my large SideImaging transducer near the center line of my boat rather than the outside starboard corner of the transom. The 4" setback gave me just enough room to mount the SI-transd without interference from the engine.

I don't have any experience with the Power Pole. I have an 8' Stickit fiberglass anchor that serves me well.

Good luck with you boat.


----------



## MONSTER369

Thanks very much for taking your time for the reply I just made the switch to saltwater fishing from fresh water and still trying to learn the shallow spots and fishing spots padre island i have been wanting to go to south bay and there is alot of shallow spots so i think a jack plate is a must. I


----------



## atexan

MONSTER369 said:


> How are you guys doing i am new to this website and i you guys have convinced me to be a new owner of a 2014 mako skiff 17..................


I will 2x on Joe's summary. Trolling motor electrical is independent. I use a Battery miser with a quick connects to each battery and just swap the charger between the two batteries every time I think about it (or in the boat shed). I am passing on the jack plate and power pole for the time being. A good stick-it anchor will hold this boat. LED light bar and floor lights are my next project.


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## MONSTER369

do you do a lot of night fishing? Where would you put the light bad on the boat?


----------



## atexan

MONSTER369 said:


> do you do a lot of night fishing? Where would you put the light bad on the boat?


I tend to stay out a little longer in the evening than I should so I am looking for navigation and safety. I am looking for something simple to mount to the grab bar. Also thinking of mounting LED strips fore and aft to light up the deck. I haven't found what I am looking for at the right $$$ just yet.


----------



## Chris 72

Hi everyone, new here. I found this site searching for Mako Skiff mods. I bought mine memorial day weekend `14 just got it back from 1st service and had a trolling motor installed. Can't wait to try it out.


----------



## joebucko

Chris 72 said:


> Hi everyone, new here. I found this site searching for Mako Skiff mods. I bought mine memorial day weekend `14 just got it back from 1st service and had a trolling motor installed. Can't wait to try it out.


Welcome. If you haven't found it be sure to check out the original thread that started all this Mako pro skiff stuff. http://2coolfishing.com/ttmbforum/showthread.php?t=407563&page=205
Hundreds of pages of tips, mods and trouble shooting info from lots of users.


----------



## Chris 72

Thanks joebucko, any ideas or pictures of a different platform or ladder to make it easier to get back in the boat would be appreciated.


----------



## pmt1317

*trolling motor wiring*

hello all new to this forum i just bought my boat about two weeks ago and i have seen where there wasnt a way to get wire to the front of your boat for trolling motor or anything else you wanted to wire up there. Well i finally found a way to get the wire to the center console or to the rear of the boat if anyone would like some photos on how i did so comment back and i will try to help


----------



## joebucko

pmt1317 said:


> hello all new to this forum i just bought my boat about two weeks ago and i have seen where there wasnt a way to get wire to the front of your boat for trolling motor or anything else you wanted to wire up there. Well i finally found a way to get the wire to the center console or to the rear of the boat if anyone would like some photos on how i did so comment back and i will try to help


Congratulations on your new boat pmt1317.
Please post some pictures of how you managed to run wires from the bow to the center console and/or stern of the boat. This is a potential issue for every
Proskiff owner.


----------



## pmt1317

Not sure if pics worked or not


----------



## pmt1317

It won't let me pull up the images and put on forum


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## pmt1317

This is just in front of board going to the floor


----------



## pmt1317

It won't let me upload the picture in the helm I drilled a hole on the front side of the routing area where the cables and all run up through


----------



## FlyItAll

Hello pmt1317, welcome to the forum! I think you have got the attention of many of us with your apparent success of getting wires to the front of the boat. Glad you got one photo to post, but I am having trouble figuring just where you put your holes. Did you run a fish tape under the floor? What did you find under the floor, was it a conduit?? a void in the foam?? Did you push your fish tape thru some foam?? Any more info you can provide would be very much appreciated. If your method can be duplicated on all of the skiffs, I think most of us will be doing it!!


----------



## pmt1317

first off guys thanks for all the helpful hints i have read about the main reason i tried this is because i just bought fish finder and trolling motor that communicate with each other so i needed this to connect them together so first off i took the rubber boot up from under the console and drilled a small hole in the front of the cavity where the cables go in shined a light in hole and looked in the drain plug and could see the light so i knew it was open in there. Then just inside the front compartment i took a small drill bit and drilled a small hole at an angle not to go towards the bottom of the boat hull once it came into an opening i stopped and took my air hose closed up the plug on the back of the boat. Blew air through one hole and could feel air out the other one i knew i had it wooped then. took my step bit and opened up the hole under the console then opened the other one going slow and lookin in hull the see to make sure not hit anything important then took my dremel and opened the hole and clean up the sides of the hole had my wife push a piece of 1/8" cable down from the fromof the boat till i could see cable in the hole under console took a clothes hanger and fished the cable out hole the pulled my wires through no foam or anthing at all


----------



## joebucko

pmt1317 said:


> first off guys thanks for all the helpful hints i have read about the main reason i tried this is because i just bought fish finder and trolling motor that communicate with each other so i needed this to connect them together so first off i took the rubber boot up from under the console and drilled a small hole in the front of the cavity where the cables go in shined a light in hole and looked in the drain plug and could see the light so i knew it was open in there. Then just inside the front compartment i took a small drill bit and drilled a small hole at an angle not to go towards the bottom of the boat hull once it came into an opening i stopped and took my air hose closed up the plug on the back of the boat. Blew air through one hole and could feel air out the other one i knew i had it wooped then. took my step bit and opened up the hole under the console then opened the other one going slow and lookin in hull the see to make sure not hit anything important then took my dremel and opened the hole and clean up the sides of the hole had my wife push a piece of 1/8" cable down from the fromof the boat till i could see cable in the hole under console took a clothes hanger and fished the cable out hole the pulled my wires through no foam or anthing at all


Pictures are limited to 400K so if they are larger than that they won't post. From your description is sounds like you have a hollow cavity running from the bow to the console. Does it run down the center line of the boat?


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## pmt1317

Yes it does


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## MONSTER369

Any updates on the running of wires from the bow to the CC


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## pmt1317

What do you need to know on the wires what update


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## pmt1317

*dual transducer mounting*

has anyone installed a transducer and a down scan structure transducer on there skiff any pictures of installation


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## joebucko

pmt1317 said:


> has anyone installed a transducer and a down scan structure transducer on there skiff any pictures of installation


Here are two links showing two different installations. One for eyesneers Lowrance LSS and one for my Humminbird999.

http://2coolfishing.com/ttmbforum/showthread.php?p=7977825#post7977825

Since I have a Jackplate on my boat I was able to mount my HB SI transducer near the centerline of the boat because of the 4" setback. The small transducer you see mounted on my starboard corner is for the 2D sonar which also provides depth readings at speed. I could never get the large transducer to correctly read depth at speed so I added the seperate smaller transducer.
http://2coolfishing.com/ttmbforum/showthread.php?p=11045234&highlight=transducer#post11045234


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## MONSTER369

sorry I could not see all the messages on my phone just saw your explanation in my computer thanks just a quick question have you had any trouble with water getting in your hull?


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## pmt1317

Not sure if you asking about water through the holes that I drilled the one I drilled is in the dry compartment haven't had in the water since then but if I have a problem with water I will seal up the hole I pulled extra wires through floor for just in case I want to add accessories later for the hole under center console the hole come out under the boot that all the other cables and hoses come out the boot


----------



## topangler25

pmt1317 said:


> has anyone installed a transducer and a down scan structure transducer on there skiff any pictures of installation


 Here is my install of the lowrance side scan. make sure the side scan is just a tad bit lower than the standard transducer. also had to get the wedges just right otherwise the image was not clear.


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## MONSTER369

Guys quick question what do you all think about the micro anchor for this boat it's says it's rated up to 1600 lbs and our boats dry weight is 950 but all I see Is kayaks with this anchor do u all think this would be a good buy for this boat


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## joebucko

MONSTER369 said:


> Guys quick question what do you all think about the micro anchor for this boat it's says it's rated up to 1600 lbs and our boats dry weight is 950 but all I see Is kayaks with this anchor do u all think this would be a good buy for this boat


Check this out http://2coolfishing.com/ttmbforum/showthread.php?t=407563&page=211


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## MONSTER369

Thanks joe bucko for the help you have provided in this thread and to everyone that contributes


----------



## DigiCowboy

*Mr*



MONSTER369 said:


> Guys quick question what do you all think about the micro anchor for this boat it's says it's rated up to 1600 lbs and our boats dry weight is 950 but all I see Is kayaks with this anchor do u all think this would be a good buy for this boat


I have one my recently purchase skiff. I am in Florida and do a lot of skinny water fishing around the Ten Thousand Islands. Absolutely LOVE the micro! Have had no problems with it holding with water depths up to about 5'. Mine was dealer mounted, very similar to the pics in the link posted by joebucko.


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## Earl3

Hey joebucko.... can you provide the measurements of how you made the transducer mount, including length, height, thickness and the angle. Also what about the homemade "stern saver" behind it; same info please? Figured we might as well do the same as what's already been done and proven, to eliminate the trial and error. Any chance you made some extras for your good ol ProSkiff buds? I'd gladly pay you for both pieces, using Paypal or I could send a check or cash in the mail. Just let me know. Really appreciate it. Earl in Magnolia,TX


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## joebucko

Earl3 said:


> Hey joebucko.... can you provide the measurements of how you made the transducer mount, including length, height, thickness and the angle. Also what about the homemade "stern saver" behind it; same info please? Figured we might as well do the same as what's already been done and proven, to eliminate the trial and error. Any chance you made some extras for your good ol ProSkiff buds? I'd gladly pay you for both pieces, using Paypal or I could send a check or cash in the mail. Just let me know. Really appreciate it. Earl in Magnolia,TX


I sent you a Private Message.


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## TallySkiff

Been away from the forum for a while, but found my way back. Just want to give JoeBucko a shout out for the transducer shim. We finally got it set up where it works great...no more rooster tailing! We have a Motorguide xi-5 55lb thrust trolling motor installed by BPS on the bow and it works like a dream. 

I have a question on how everyone is storing everything on their boat. We went out with 3 adults recently and it seemed you had to be careful where to step or move things around all the time. Move someone's bag, move the 5 gallon bucket, etc. and don't step on the factory supplied slippery spot!

We have a 17ft. In the front hatch is the anchor and required throw cushion. The two TM batteries and onboard charger under the front deck. Pack of 4 life preservers, small lunch cooler in cooler seat. Battery, gas tank, bait bag and boat bag (with other required essentials) under the back deck. Also, lay a paddle along front left side of boat along inner wall and nothing under center console. So...as you can imagine, we don't have a cooler to keep cold drinks or fish. One idea is as Mudslinger did and attach cooler to the front, but we like that area open for 2 folks to fish up there. Any suggestions? Everyone's ideas are much appreciated!


----------



## joebucko

TallySkiff said:


> Been away from the forum for a while, but found my way back. Just want to give JoeBucko a shout out for the transducer shim. We finally got it set up where it works great...no more rooster tailing! We have a Motorguide xi-5 55lb thrust trolling motor installed by BPS on the bow and it works like a dream.
> 
> I have a question on how everyone is storing everything on their boat. We went out with 3 adults recently and it seemed you had to be careful where to step or move things around all the time. Move someone's bag, move the 5 gallon bucket, etc. and don't step on the factory supplied slippery spot!
> 
> We have a 17ft. In the front hatch is the anchor and required throw cushion. The two TM batteries and onboard charger under the front deck. Pack of 4 life preservers, small lunch cooler in cooler seat. Battery, gas tank, bait bag and boat bag (with other required essentials) under the back deck. Also, lay a paddle along front left side of boat along inner wall and nothing under center console. So...as you can imagine, we don't have a cooler to keep cold drinks or fish. One idea is as Mudslinger did and attach cooler to the front, but we like that area open for 2 folks to fish up there. Any suggestions? Everyone's ideas are much appreciated!


Glad to hear you got the transducer set up like you want it.

As for storage your set up sounds about right for the available storage. I have a few more things stowed in the front deck hatch(all infrequently used) with the throw cushion on top.

I have two storage containers under front deck on the port side that are handy and have mounted my fire extinguisher and battery charger against the front deck wall as well. Still have room for a couple of small bags under front deck. You mentioned having TWO TM batteries under the deck. With a 55# thrust tm why do you need 2?

I also store a small tool box and my spare prop inside the console and added a console opening cover w/storage compartment.

I do keep some things in the cooler seat but it is far from full. I added two easily removable rod holders to the starboard side of the cooler(allows a total of 6 usable rod holders on the boat). Still have space for some stuff under the rear deck since I only run with 1 6 gallon tank of gas.

With two people on board it is still easy to move around the boat freely. The times I have had 3 people along it is much tighter than I like.

I periodically review what I am carrying on the boat to see if it is necessary and am now comfortable that I have what I need and nothing extra.


----------



## TallySkiff

Thanks for your response Joe. I was wrong...it's the 80# TM, the smaller one is on my jon boat. Do you have a quick write up or post # that details your console cover? I really like that look and it would help with the wasp situation we seem to be having lately. We really just need to find a place for the life preservers, which we may be able to do my breaking up the stuff in the BPS boat bag in which that console hatch would do I think.


----------



## frankcr

The 17 ft skiff has more room than most fishing craft of its size, but three people fishing may limit how much gear you can have on board. This is one of the reasons we bought the tiller model without a center consol to get in the way which handles four people without crowding.

Our old 21 ft cuddy cabin got pretty well crowded with three anglers.

If you spend the time to properly utilize the under deck space, you should have no problems.


----------



## soupsMPS17

Any suggestions on a boat cover that isn't the $600 option from Mako? I've seen a few online but wasn't sure if anyone had one they liked/disliked.


----------



## njgradywhite

soupsMPS17 said:


> Any suggestions on a boat cover that isn't the $600 option from Mako? I've seen a few online but wasn't sure if anyone had one they liked/disliked.


I can suggest you not buy the $60 cheapo from Bass Pro which is more of a universal cover. Tried it and didn't fit right. Was too loose and with the cables and gas line going to the motor it didn't fit the stern properly.

I bought the console cover from Mako and it is outstanding. A full boat cover I will probably have made custom by a vinyl company that did out enclosure for the Grady White.

Custom might be the way to go. Once I get my quote I will share with the board


----------



## joebucko

soupsMPS17 said:


> Any suggestions on a boat cover that isn't the $600 option from Mako? I've seen a few online but wasn't sure if anyone had one they liked/disliked.


Here is a link to some information on semi-custom boat covers that work well on the Pro17. http://2coolfishing.com/ttmbforum/showthread.php?t=407563&page=226

there are a couple of recommendation on this page.


----------



## KeithD.

Joe,
What is the length of the screws you used to attach your rod holders to the side of the boat?


----------



## joebucko

KeithD. said:


> Joe,
> What is the length of the screws you used to attach your rod holders to the side of the boat?


If you are talking about the horizontal holders the screws are very short (probably 1" or less) and they came with the holders as I remember. The holders are attached to the thin inner lining of the boat only.

I have stopped using screws on my boat in almost all cases now. I am opting for adhesives to hold most of the stuff I attach to the boat. GOOP Marine adhesive is pretty awesome stuff...clear...sticks to most things and holds very very well.


----------



## DigiCowboy

*Quick Easy Storm Cover*















Just a simple idea to keep save us from the real Fl puddle pounders. We carry rain gear, but it is no fun getting hammered by the strong summer thunderstorms and almost impossible to drive getting whipped by the heavy rain. So I came up with a 2 min cover, to limp out of the storm. All it takes is a Home Depot (or similar) tarp with grommets and 4 bungie cords. It goes up in 2 minutes. Total cost - about $20. You could go with a bigger tarp, HD has several sizes. I have not gotten to try it under storm conditions yet to see how much problem heavy wind will be.


----------



## joebucko

DigiCowboy said:


> View attachment 2591529
> View attachment 2591545
> 
> 
> Just a simple idea to keep save us from the real Fl puddle pounders. We carry rain gear, but it is no fun getting hammered by the strong summer thunderstorms and almost impossible to drive getting whipped by the heavy rain. So I came up with a 2 min cover, to limp out of the storm. All it takes is a Home Depot (or similar) tarp with grommets and 4 bungie cords. It goes up in 2 minutes. Total cost - about $20. You could go with a bigger tarp, HD has several sizes. I have not gotten to try it under storm conditions yet to see how much problem heavy wind will be.


Nice job. Simple, effective, inexpensive and easy to put up and take down.


----------



## mudmauler

Pro skiff 17 owner here and damaged my prop at the start of duck season. Anybody happen to know of a good 3 blade aluminum prop that has good top end speed. Had been running a four blade but trying to see if maybe somebody has any good experience with a certain model. Just too many posts to weed through on the subject.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## joebucko

mudmauler said:


> Pro skiff 17 owner here and damaged my prop at the start of duck season. Anybody happen to know of a good 3 blade aluminum prop that has good top end speed. Had been running a four blade but trying to see if maybe somebody has any good experience with a certain model. Just too many posts to weed through on the subject.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The Solas Amita 4 blade in a 13P is an excellent and inexpensive aluminum. In my testing the Solas 4 blade out performed the Mercury blackmax 13 & 14P props in both hole shot and top end.

If you really want a 3 blade aluminum I'd suggest the Mercury Blackmax in a 13 or 14"pitch.


----------



## mudmauler

The Amita sounds like the bees knees. I wouldn't mind a 4 blade. If it's not too much trouble do you possibly have model number for the correct one. I'm not real sure what to look for when it comes to correct fitment on the 60hp. I'm sending a prop back because I thought it would work but turns out it's for smaller mercury outboards.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## joebucko

mudmauler said:


> The Amita sounds like the bees knees. I wouldn't mind a 4 blade. If it's not too much trouble do you possibly have model number for the correct one. I'm not real sure what to look for when it comes to correct fitment on the 60hp. I'm sending a prop back because I thought it would work but turns out it's for smaller mercury outboards.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Solas Amita 4 10.5" x 13P pt# 1313-105-13 
You can usually find them on Ebay, iBoats etc but I get most of my props from DansDiscountProps.com


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## mudmauler

Ordered! Really appreciate that. Your a scholar and a gentleman!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## 8814ca

*Pro skiff question*



pmt1317 said:


> first off guys thanks for all the helpful hints i have read about the main reason i tried this is because i just bought fish finder and trolling motor that communicate with each other so i needed this to connect them together so first off i took the rubber boot up from under the console and drilled a small hole in the front of the cavity where the cables go in shined a light in hole and looked in the drain plug and could see the light so i knew it was open in there. Then just inside the front compartment i took a small drill bit and drilled a small hole at an angle not to go towards the bottom of the boat hull once it came into an opening i stopped and took my air hose closed up the plug on the back of the boat. Blew air through one hole and could feel air out the other one i knew i had it wooped then. took my step bit and opened up the hole under the console then opened the other one going slow and lookin in hull the see to make sure not hit anything important then took my dremel and opened the hole and clean up the sides of the hole had my wife push a piece of 1/8" cable down from the fromof the boat till i could see cable in the hole under console took a clothes hanger and fished the cable out hole the pulled my wires through no foam or anthing at all


 I hope to buy a Pro Skiff within the next couple of months and trying to learn all I can before I buy. Has anyone else tried to run wires like this? Do you think I could expect to do this or was this just possible on pmt1317's boat? Thanks


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## joebucko

8814ca said:


> I hope to buy a Pro Skiff within the next couple of months and trying to learn all I can before I buy. Has anyone else tried to run wires like this? Do you think I could expect to do this or was this just possible on pmt1317's boat? Thanks


I'm guessing but I think it will work on all of the Pro17s because they all have the drop in liner forming the deck/interior. There has to be at least a small space between the liner and the hull. I haven't tried it on my 2012 boat but if I need to run wire to the bow I wouldn't hesitate to do it.


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## 8814ca

joebucko said:


> I'm guessing but I think it will work on all of the Pro17s because they all have the drop in liner forming the deck/interior. There has to be at least a small space between the liner and the hull. I haven't tried it on my 2012 boat but if I need to run wire to the bow I wouldn't hesitate to do it.


Thank you. I'm sure I'll have more questions later.


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## FlatsCatFL

8814ca said:


> I hope to buy a Pro Skiff within the next couple of months and trying to learn all I can before I buy. Has anyone else tried to run wires like this? Do you think I could expect to do this or was this just possible on pmt1317's boat? Thanks


I did this procedure just last weekend for my newly installed MK TM. A fish tape runs along the V-groove in the center of the hull. It will almost pop out of the hole made forward of the bulk head with just the right bend on it. I can try to post some pics of the install if you like.


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## 8814ca

FlatsCatFL said:


> I did this procedure just last weekend for my newly installed MK TM. A fish tape runs along the V-groove in the center of the hull. It will almost pop out of the hole made forward of the bulk head with just the right bend on it. I can try to post some pics of the install if you like.


 Please post pictures. Thanks


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## FlatsCatFL

*pics*



8814ca said:


> Please post pictures. Thanks


here you go, hope they help you. i also posted in the 'day 0' mako thread to joebucko's question on some procedure steps, page 259.


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## atexan

FlatsCatFL said:


> here you go, hope they help you. i also posted in the 'day 0' mako thread to joebucko's question on some procedure steps, page 259.


Excellent. :dance:


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## briankinley2004

Hello new member here and this is my first post. I found this forum looking for tips on converting my 2012 Mako 17 steering to hydraulic. Wish I had found this years ago as it would have saved me cussing my livewell, prop slip and some of the other issues I have found on this forum. I have tolerated them for since I bought the boat new and now have found fixes. Thanks! As for mods I have done the following:

1) My livewell drain tube was tilting because the drain elbow was sitting on the bottom of the boat and pressing up into the plastic tub. I installed 1/2" spaces under my console and raised it. This also allows for drainage. Now that I found the forum with the screened drain I am going that route but I will leave the spacers.

2) I installed an I pilot trolling motor with extra battery in the rear along with on board charger. Yes I pulled wires from the back all the way to the front. It can be done. When the I pilot self deployed and got ripped off the boat I went with the Motor guide pin point model. It works much better and does not roam near as much.

3) Because the boat is not self bailing and only has a manual bilge pump I installed a float switch wired directly to battery so the bilge turns on automatically if I leave boat in the water. Even with two batteries in the back water tends to flow forward. I plan to add another or a bigger gas tank to help. 

Overall I am pleased with the boat for what I paid for it. I also plan on enclosing the console and adding the vent tube to the aerator. I have been just pulling the head off to let air out when it air locks.


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## briankinley2004

this is motor and wiring. I need to put loom on wiring but its low on radar right now


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## atexan

Installed a couple of my Christmas presents today. An RTIC 20 for sitting and standing and a "stick it brake" for my shallow water anchor


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## FX4_Mako17

Alright guys im ready to buy a Trolling motor. I fish in the lower laguna madre, salt water, but man are these guys expensive! I was looking at the Bass Pro brand since I can get a discount with them. I really only want it to fish certain shallow areas of Arroyo to maneuver there and stiffy pole up. 

Or would I benefit more with the Atlas Micro jack and pole in/out of certain areas?


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## johnsons1480

I have the 19 ft with a motorguide xi5. I really, really wish I had gotten a power pole instead.


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## brianBFD

I've been looking at this site and other forums trying to see how others have added additional rod holders. I saw where someone here had used 1.25" PVC to stabilize their rods in the stock holders and it gave me an idea. I plan to give it a try this Friday.









Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


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## johnsons1480

Has anyone rigged up their console baitwell to work? I'm interested in doing this, but don't even know where to start


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## Tjsadler

johnsons1480 said:


> Has anyone rigged up their console baitwell to work? I'm interested in doing this, but don't even know where to start


If you mean that it won't prime then the solution is to add a vent to the hose. There's a solution with pictures in the Day 0 Review thread and I just added this easier method:
Hi guys. I recently bought a new Pro Skiff 16 and was having the normal problem with the livewell not priming. I read on the forum posts about the mod with the "T" installed in the line and the reducers and the clamps and the 1/4" line so I was all ready to do that when my laziness took over and I started looking for an easier way. I started thinking about how a sprinkler system gets put together without all the "T's" so I bought a packet of the 1/4" barbed connectors and some 1/4" line and silicone sealant. I first ran the 1/4" line to terminate near the motor over the back of the transom but where I could see it. Basically I have a second visual indicator of whether the pump is pumping water or not. I attached the 1/4" barbed fitting onto the other end of the line. I drilled a smaller hole in the top of the livewell line just outside the pump and stabbed the 1/4" fitting into it. I used a generous amount of silicone around the fitting to make sure it wouldn't leak. I had the boat in the water a few days later and it primed and ran 99% of the time. I even closed the livewell valve end almost completely to see if the pressure would make the barbed fitting leak and it didn't. This mod does the same thing as the "T" fittings and all their accompanying parts but with way less parts and way less work.


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## johnsons1480

Tjsadler said:


> If you mean that it won't prime then the solution is to add a vent to the hose. There's a solution with pictures in the Day 0 Review thread and I just added this easier method


Thanks man. I was talking about the baitwell that is part of the console on the 19'. The livewell in the back works fine. The baitwell, or tub with a drain, works fine as a tub. I've got three questions:
Would it be best to run regular air with a 12v hookup through the console?
Or, instead, would it be best to hook into the livewell system and be able to pump fresh water into the baitwell?
If that's the best method, how would I do that?

Thanks!


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## SeaDreamin

Hey guys! I just purchased a small Garmin Striker 4 for the boat. Just curious as to the best way to install. The only electronics I have is a small radio with two speakers that I have running to my power switch powered off my starting battery. I’m going to purchase a second battery for the finder along with lights that were purchased for me as a gift. Just curious if anyone else installed a fish finder on there’s and has some insight. Of course I’m scared to drill into the hull but it’s a necessary evil and just don’t want to screw it up. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!!


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## motoford

Good news for modders. I haven't seen this mentioned anywhere, and didn't know this until I picked up my 2019 17 a couple of days ago. 

Mako has added a channel down the centerline of the boat that runs front to back to make wiring easy. There are even access panels to this channel. I can take some pictures if anyone is interested.


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## johnsons1480

joebucko said:


> I originally posted this on the general discussion site but thought I'd add it under the MODS Topic because that's what it is.
> 
> I got tired of my rods/reels flopping around in the short rod holders on the console so I made these inserts to tighten things up a bit. They have worked out great. 1 1/4" ID schedule 40 pvc knotched at the bottom to grab the bottom of the rod holder and sculpted top to fit both bait cast and spinning reels. Length is sized to fit my rod handles. A couple of wraps of duct tape and they are snug in the holes but can be pulled out easily if need be. The inside diameter of 1 1/4" was just right for my rods. If your handles are thicker I believe Lowes also had a pvc that had slightly thinner walls=wider inside diameter(probably drain pipe not schedule 40).
> The 2nd hole is pretty much useless for holding rods because of the stainless steel grab rail.


Anyone come up with a good way to use the rod holder for fly rods? Thinking of trying to work with Joebucko's PVC design above but not sure the best way to secure them. 8 weight with a full wells and fighting butt if it matters.


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## motoford

Anyone have any advice on mounting a side-scan transducer on the 2019 model 17? The transom is very different than the prev years


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## sod88

Prop,,

I have the 2018 ,17' with a 60 

Two batteries up front for the trolling motor 

It feels like it is slipping on the holeshot
Thinking about putting a stainless prop on it was looking at the Mercury x7 4 blade in a 13 pitch 
You guys have any input on this


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## Kevin Nicholls

If your in Houston you can go to Bauman's Props and Louie can help you out with any prop questions. I'm running a stainless 3 blade.


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## Johnboy36

motoford said:


> Good news for modders. I haven't seen this mentioned anywhere, and didn't know this until I picked up my 2019 17 a couple of days ago.
> 
> Mako has added a channel down the centerline of the boat that runs front to back to make wiring easy. There are even access panels to this channel. I can take some pictures if anyone is interested.


Just bought a Skiff...would LOVE some pix of the wiring job!...thx!


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## ACORDERO

Johnboy36 said:


> Just bought a Skiff...would LOVE some pix of the wiring job!...thx!


I have a 2017 and I just ran the wires down the center of the boat and put a pvc wire protector to cover the wires, it also helped with covering the slippery spot right under the front deck that doesn't have nonskid on it. I attaches a few pictures of the wiring and a few other mods I have done like tackle storage behind seat cushion, self leveling trim tabs, water and fuel separator, bigger fuel tank and steering wheel.


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## pjscott550

I am new to this group. I have been reading and viewing the modifications on some of the threads. Really nice work! I am posting because my Mako ProSkiff 15 60HP engine just exploded on me while fishing last week, Only had 38 hours on the motor. 

I was wondering if anyone on the thread has had the same issue with their Mercury 4 Stroke that comes with the Mako? If so, did you stick with the Mercury or did you switch to another engine? 

Thanks in advance.


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## Kevin Nicholls

Is your outboard still under warranty ?


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## Cjlovi

motoford said:


> Good news for modders. I haven't seen this mentioned anywhere, and didn't know this until I picked up my 2019 17 a couple of days ago.
> 
> Mako has added a channel down the centerline of the boat that runs front to back to make wiring easy. There are even access panels to this channel. I can take some pictures if anyone is interested.


Pictures would be awesome. I'm picking up a 2023 tomorrow.


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