# Turning your own cork handle



## CaptDocHoliday (Feb 3, 2011)

Started building about 10 months ago. Finding that some of my first rods, where I used some inexpensive premade split grips I picked up at FTU, are having the bottom part of the upper grip (the one that your hand is on while you hold the rod) are starting to discentigrate. Not sure if it's a result of putting the rod in and out of the rod holder that is doing it, but the bottom part of the cork, just above the winding check, is losing material which is leaving me with a gap between the winding check and the rest of the grip. Planning on bringing the rod to the builders show to get input on what to do about it. Figure I'll have to put some sort of grip wrap over the cork. 

Now to my questions. Decided to invest in some high quality cork rings. Got a mix between regular cork, burnt cork, and the rubber cork mix rings. Put a bolt through them and glued them together with wood glue and tightened it up with a nut and washer on the bolt. After it dried I put the end of the bolt in my drill (I know, Ghetto), and spun it down with some unknown grit sandpaper to the shape and diameter I wanted and it looks good. My question now is is this a finished product? Do I need to apply some kind of cork sealer or something to it or just ream it and put it on the rod? Trying to mirror an awesome grip I got from a fellow builder (Closingtime), but his seems a little smoother than the one I made. Is there some sort of "polishing" step that I'm missing, and if so, what do I use to polish with? I put the Rubber/Cork mix ring on the bottom to hopefully prevent this same deal from happening again. It was a little tougher to sand down than the plain cork ring. 

Thanks fellas!

Me and the wife will be at the builders show next weekend.


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## closingtime (Aug 5, 2006)

You don't have to put anything on the cork, but some do. My method is shape the cork mainly using 220 grit sandpaper until I get it really smooth. I usually hit it with a 400 or 600 as well when I have the final shape, but I'm not sure that does too much since it is so fine. I usually spin it and take a paper towel with some alcohol on it to clean the grips after sanding. It seems the burl cork usually dirties up the regular and this cleans it up nicely. Then I take some minwax paste finishing wax and put a little on the cork while it turns then wipe it off with a paper towel. The wax seems to shine it up a little.

A lathe will help you out greatly in turning the cork. I used to use my drill with some mixed results. Found a used lathe on craigslist and love it for turning grips.

Hope that helps some.


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## CaptDocHoliday (Feb 3, 2011)

Awesome! Thanks Travis!

Figure I can get the Wax paste at the rod builders show or is something like this readily available at Lowes or something?

Will be looking at a lathe soon. Wanted to kinda guage how hard it was before investing a lot of $. I'll try to post up some pics when I can take some.


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## closingtime (Aug 5, 2006)

You can get it at Lowe's.


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## Pods (Jan 11, 2006)

Capt Doc,
Last year I retired my old lathe. It was a makeshift one that never really turned true. I was lucky and caught a sale at Woodcrafters and purchased the Rikon lathe for ~ 259.00, they paid the pstg and no slaes tax. Best investment I made for rodbuilding. Watch them from time to time and see if you can snag a sale. This lathe does a great job on making your own grips, smooth and quiet as well. Good Luck.

Pods


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## CaptDocHoliday (Feb 3, 2011)

When using a lathe, are you turning the cork on the blank or on some kind of dowel rod? (Sorry if this is a stupid question). My brother had a lathe back home (TN) that we used to tinker around on making duck call's but that's about the extent of my lathe experience.


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## Bubba_Bruiser (Jan 13, 2012)

Waffle gave me a good tip to just use an old candle and rub on the bolt or mandrel. My wife seldom notices when I have 5 fingered discounted one if I keep it in moderation. I just got a lathe from my uncle and have been enjoying it. I just ordered a mandrel from MH and use it. They are hollowed on the end to line up in the tail stock center. I think Lance @ Swampland offers them now too. I just use masking tape for a bushing, slide the grip on and turn and burn.


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## Swampland (Mar 25, 2008)

Bubba B gave you a great little tip about the candle. Just rub it on a steel mandrel then glue up your cork rings to it then turn away. After your done just give it a quick twist with your wrist and it'll pop loose then just slide it off the mandrel.

Some builders glue the rings to the rod and it's a good bit more troublesome to do it that way. The majority of builders that I know use the mandrels. I have them in stock in sizes 7'', 10'' and 14'' and 1/4'' up to 1/2''.

The 7 and 10 inch size is perfect for building split grip handles and the 14'' size is perfect for making longer one piece handles.

Give me a call and I can walk you through what you may need to start turning your own grips. I have all the different sizes in stock.


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## Wafflejaw (Jun 15, 2010)

Just to add on...A method Ive been playing with to clean up cork and ''inlaid'' eva grips after shaping is turning them on the lathe,and using a slightly damp magic eraser cleaning sponge...Then a machine cloth to dry....Works like a charm


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## Bullard International (Dec 9, 2011)

Wafflejaw said:


> Just to add on...A method Ive been playing with to clean up cork and ''inlaid'' eva grips after shaping is turning them on the lathe,and using a slightly damp magic eraser cleaning sponge...Then a machine cloth to dry....Works like a charm


Walker, you need to send that one in for the Journal on the Salty Dawgs, Gizmos and Gadgets page!


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## Pods (Jan 11, 2006)

Capt Doc,
I am sorry for not making myself clear. I turn them on a mandrel then pop them off the mandrel and ream to fit the blank. Hope this helps, if you need additional info let me know. If you need pics I can get them for you too. Good luck and happy turning.


Pods


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## DGAustin (Jun 5, 2005)

If you don't want to purchase a lathe, consider getting a couple of mandrels and build a device to hold your drill and the end of the mandrel. Built mine out of plywood, and used two skateboard wheels to support the end of the mandrel. I just purchased 5/16" & 3/8" mandrels and a small skateboard in making it.


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## Goags (May 28, 2004)

Here's an option somewhere between a reg. lathe and and a DIY. I still use mine, with mandrels. Works fine w/ cork or EVA.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Hobby-Lathe/H2669


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## ellisredfish (Jul 5, 2005)

I agree with Goags. I have had mine several years and turn all of my handles on it. It does not come with a drill and take special notice that the drill collar has to be 44mm or longer to go through the drill holder. I used to buy a cheap drill at Sears that would fit that drill holder but they have stopped that model. Maybe Goags will come back on and let us know which drill brand he is using now.


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## delrod (Sep 13, 2005)

before i upgraded to the harbor freight green dragon lathe, i used the flex coat drill lathe. i think is the same as the grizzly. i used a half inch ridgid from home depot. fits well. use a large hose clamp to go around the trigger and if you have a soft touch you can control the speed that way.


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## Goags (May 28, 2004)

Ellis, I'm on my second Grizzly 1/2" drill, got it as a backup when they were closing them out a couple of yrs ago. When it craps out, I'll be looking for something like the Ricon lathe that Pods mentioned.
Delrod, I thought the flexcoat drill lathe was for doing grips already on the blank, at least that's how I've seen Roger demo it. Do you have a link for the HF green dragon?


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## Skiff (Jun 5, 2004)

Goags said:


> Here's an option somewhere between a reg. lathe and and a DIY. I still use mine, with mandrels. Works fine w/ cork or EVA.
> 
> http://www.grizzly.com/products/Hobby-Lathe/H2669


Thanks for posting this one!


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## Pods (Jan 11, 2006)

Capt Doc,
Here are the pics of my lathe for turning cork and a pic of the mandrels. If you need additional info just let me know.

Pods


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## delrod (Sep 13, 2005)

i did the first few on the rod with the flex coat rig. then bought a mandrel and put it in the drill and the other end thru one of the roller stands. it was reasonable. the green dragon is my own name. it also goes by pos and many other names not allowed here. i think it is 150 new, but i got mine unused at a garage sale for 50 bucks. it works really good for all i need it for, but has some issues. the headstock is not hollow. and it requires a special adaptor that i got from penn industries to allow it to use a regular chuck. the adaptor was about 20 bucks, but now im rockin. these things seem to show up on craigslist all the time.http://www.harborfreight.com/14-inch-x-40-inch-lathe-with-7-inch-sander-67690.html


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## delrod (Sep 13, 2005)

here is pic, with iphone. maybe work, maybe not. green dragon lathe and last handle. well after seeing it, i need to get another camera. last one was accidentally donated to reef building project in cabo.


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