# Curado 200E7



## Just One More (Jan 30, 2008)

When I opened it up found corrosion on the drive shaft and the roller clutch inner tube was stuck to it. I managed to get it free and replaced. I have a couple questions. I have parts not on the schematic. There was a washer between the drag spring washers and roller clutch inner tube. Also, had a silver washer between idle gear 2400 and drive shaft retainer. Curious? Also, does the coated surface on the star drag spacer face drag spring washer? or star drag nut? And do the drag spring washers face )( ?
Thank you in advance.


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## stdreb27 (Aug 15, 2011)

There are 2 versions of the schematic out there one with that washer and one without. I don't remember off the top of my head. Where it goes. I have one curado with each configuration. I opened em both up once got the parts mixed up thinking they were the same. Was not a fun evening. Lol.


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## Dipsay (Apr 28, 2006)

They made a running change on that reel when they switched from the aluminum key washers to the stainless. When they did that they added that spacer between the roller tube and the tension washers. If memory serves it had something to do with the thickness of the aluminum vs the stainless key washer. The spacer you are talking about between the idle gear and retainer, you are correct sir. It isnt on the schematic and last time I called they didnt even have a part number for it. They actually sent me 5 or so, but had to take reels apart to get it..At least thats what they told me..lol It basically is just a shim spacer that takes up that little bit of play in the shaft. Coated surface toward the nut bro..Dip


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## MattK (Feb 9, 2006)

The larger spacer goes on top of the clutch tube. It was added as a spacer when they did a running production change on the key washer. The upgraded stainless key washer was thinner than the anodized aluminum.

The other washer does indeed go on the idler gear collar and is sandwiched between the idle gear and the worm shield. It's to prevent wear between the two parts.

Technically I think the teflon side is supposed to face the brass square nut.

)( or () is acceptable as log as they are opposite but I always do mine () ... just seems smoother.

Also there is one other thin washer that sits on top of the pinion support bearing and in the clutch cam retainer (yoke posts). Just in case you didn't see it.


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## Just One More (Jan 30, 2008)

*Thanks*

Thank you all for the replies and answers. Matt/DIP/George...I really appreciate all of your post/help/advice (time you take) for us rookies.


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## george.maness86 (May 29, 2012)

Drag springs always go like this (). Other wise if they are like this )( you will only get the tension from the top one and maybe rub the roller clutch with the bottom one facing down. The part number for the spacer on the levelwind is BNT3918. I dont know what the part number is on the spacer between the drag springs and the roller clutch tube.


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## Dipsay (Apr 28, 2006)

george.maness86 said:


> Drag springs always go like this (). Other wise if they are like this )( you will only get the tension from the top one and maybe rub the roller clutch with the bottom one facing down. The part number for the spacer on the levelwind is BNT3918. I dont know what the part number is on the spacer between the drag springs and the roller clutch tube.


beg to differ, but it doesnt matter which way those go brotha..Even Bantam has said that.. But I do agree with Mat that () is smoother. However, I dont agree with the )( way rubbing against the roller bearing. As you apply drag it actually straightens out the tension washer eliminating that problem. If that is happening then your roller bearing is seated too far out in the first place. 
He's not talking about the spacer that goes on the levelwind idle gear. He's talking about a spacer (that is not on the schematics) that goes between the drive shaft idle gear and retainer for the drive shaft. You could use the BNT4295 which shows on the current G7 models but not for the E7 Curados.
As far as a part number for the roller tube spacer shim.. Its just that, they never have been able to tell me what that part number is because they made that running change. I usually just call them up and ask for the replacement key washers and spacers that go with..Dip


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## george.maness86 (May 29, 2012)

Dipsay said:


> beg to differ, but it doesnt matter which way those go brotha..Even Bantam has said that.. But I do agree with Mat that () is smoother. However, I dont agree with the )( way rubbing against the roller bearing. As you apply drag it actually straightens out the tension washer eliminating that problem. If that is happening then your roller bearing is seated too far out in the first place.
> He's not talking about the spacer that goes on the levelwind idle gear. He's talking about a spacer (that is not on the schematics) that goes between the drive shaft idle gear and retainer for the drive shaft. You could use the BNT4295 which shows on the current G7 models but not for the E7 Curados.
> As far as a part number for the roller tube spacer shim.. Its just that, they never have been able to tell me what that part number is because they made that running change. I usually just call them up and ask for the replacement key washers and spacers that go with..Dip


I understand what you are saying I just don't see how you can get any spring out of the bottom washer being like )(. There just isn't enough surface area to spring the bottom one like 1/16" on each side. () just makes more sense to me and is how I have always done it. Enlighten me if I am missing something please I just don't see )( working very well as far as the bottom washer being sprung to make a difference.


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## MattK (Feb 9, 2006)

Like I said I always do () but the spacing between the two setups is basically the same which equates to the same range of drag. Plus I don't think there is any chance of it rubbing the clutch bearing unless it was falling out of the side plate.

Oh and the part number for the additional spacer found on the drive shaft is a BNT2128... same one they used on the Ch100B's

Hope this helps


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## patwilson (Jan 13, 2006)

I couldn't agree more about the washer install () .


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## Bantam1 (Jun 26, 2007)

Either way will work and you will not feel a difference. I just install them like this () because most of the reels from the factory came this way. Either way you will still get drag pressure because the washers are beveled.


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## Just One More (Jan 30, 2008)

*wow*

I appreciate all the input, and learn something here everyday. I had a chance to do some more work on it last night. It had a lot of grease on it from the factory. I even took a part some things I shouldn't have (turn key dial) It was fun getting the ball bearing back in there, but managed. What do you guys do on the frame? I didn't put grease on everything when I put it back together. Is this a mistake? Or, as long as I keep up on the maintenance it is ok? I flushed that bearing with alcohol and put 1 drop of oil. Speaking of oil, I didn't want to wait for the royal purple, and I had read on here that reel butter was ok and bought some at FTU when picking up parts. Compared it against REM oil last night and it seemed thicker. She is going back together nicely, and I polished the break ring slightly with a qtip and polish. I will post my progress. Any advice is more than welcome.


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## MattK (Feb 9, 2006)

Looks pretty clean. I would have recommended putting some grease on the frame where the clutch cam and clutch plate rub. I also like to put a little grease on the clutch spring before putting it in the frame. One other place to add a dab of grease is on the drive shaft bearing before you seat it in the frame. It help protect the bearing from water intrusion. Besides that it looks like you did a good job


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## Just One More (Jan 30, 2008)

MattK said:


> Looks pretty clean. I would have recommended putting some grease on the frame where the clutch cam and clutch plate rub. I also like to put a little grease on the clutch spring before putting it in the frame. One other place to add a dab of grease is on the drive shaft bearing before you seat it in the frame. It help protect the bearing from water intrusion. Besides that it looks like you did a good job


Thanks Matt. I will go back and add recommendations. I did put a little on the outside of that bearing before seating it in the frame (not much). Do you use drag grease?


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## MattK (Feb 9, 2006)

Here at the shop were use a clear thinner grease for those applications but drag grease will work fine. If you want, because Shimano drag grease is so thick, you can cut it down with a little mineral oil.


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## Scumfrog (Dec 9, 2012)

I just bought a curado e7 from a mom and pop place and I opened up the sideplate and noticed grease in spots I can't remember seeing on my reels before.My question would be is this a place where it needs it?Here's a pic looks like green snot in three corners around the housing


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## Bantam1 (Jun 26, 2007)

There is grease on those spots for the side plate cam type lock. A little grease in these spots is a good thing.


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## Scumfrog (Dec 9, 2012)

Ok cool have to add that to the list thanks


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## Just One More (Jan 30, 2008)

*drive and pinion*

I worked on the drive gear last night. It was so bad I didn't have a lot of hope and picked up a new drive and pinion gear at FTU. Soaked it in CLR overnight and did a lot of sanding by hand because it had some pitting. It cleaned up pretty well, but you can see small pitting on the inside. Is it ok to use?


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## MattK (Feb 9, 2006)

Did you soak the new one or the old one?

I assume that is the old one in the pic?


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## Just One More (Jan 30, 2008)

MattK said:


> Did you soak the new one or the old one?
> 
> I assume that is the old one in the pic?


Yes, that is the old one in the pic.


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## Bantam1 (Jun 26, 2007)

It looks ok to me. Even with a little tarnish the gears will still work. It all depends on the gear feel. If the gears felt good before then they should be good to go.


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## MattK (Feb 9, 2006)

I see the discoloration where the drag washer sat... is that the pitting you are talking about?

If it is then it should be ok as long as it's smooth. I don't know why the dartanitum washers react like that to the gear. The bottom of the gear looks real nice and polished. Were you going to replace the drag washers with CarbonTex?


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## Just One More (Jan 30, 2008)

MattK said:


> I see the discoloration where the drag washer sat... is that the pitting you are talking about?
> 
> If it is then it should be ok as long as it's smooth. I don't know why the dartanitum washers react like that to the gear. The bottom of the gear looks real nice and polished. Were you going to replace the drag washers with CarbonTex?


Yes, that is the pitting I was referring to. Yes, I have some carbontex drag washers for replacement.


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## MattK (Feb 9, 2006)

Throw a little grease on the CarbonTex and toss them in there.


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## Just One More (Jan 30, 2008)

Ok, got the first one back together and she is very smooth, and 28 seconds on free spool. The second 200E7 I disassembled has the aluminum key washer with no spacer (like Dipsay siad). It is in good shape, should I order a stainless one?


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## MattK (Feb 9, 2006)

I would. We replace them as we see them regardless if they are corroded or not. Better to replace it now because once they start to go they go bad fast. Once it's corroded the torn up drag washer and corrosion from the aluminum gets in your gear set which can cause other issues. It's a free upgrade and Shimano is fast with their shipping.


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## Just One More (Jan 30, 2008)

*key washer replaced*

Shimano took care of me and sent me 2 key washers and 2 spacers. Thanks Bantam1 :cheers: Is this about the right amount of drag grease?


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## MattK (Feb 9, 2006)

Looks good! 

Now go wear out those new drag washers


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