# Question about finishing



## Viking48 (Jan 24, 2006)

I'd appreciate some advice from the group. When I made the Pens for Warriors the other afternoon they had a high shine but the next day the shine was greatly reduced - still had shine but nothing like the night before. These were Mesquite blanks - I sanded to 600 then hit them with EEE. I used 3 different finishes - mostly Behlens with some Mylands and some Shellawax. I applied two coats back to back then buffed with 3 wheels. My guess is that I probably didn't put enough coats on nor did I wait long enough between coats and the Mesquite absorbed the finish but that's only a guess. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated as I'd like to improve before the next batch. Look forward to hearing from you.


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## biggreen (Feb 23, 2005)

If it faded after you went through the wheels then I'd guess the original finish wasn't enough. I use a CA/BLO finish and I have to do 4 or 5 coats to make sure it stays shiny. When I used just two coats the finish wouldn't be very consistent and not as shiny. Make sure your putting a lot of wax on the last wheel. It doesn't last long. Red, white, then wax right? I haven't used the finishes your useing so maybe someone else can give some details on them? 

BTW, did you get that chuck cleaned up and working? 
later, biggreen

Oh, and what the heck are you doing up at midnight thinking about pens?


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## Bobby (May 21, 2004)

I also on wood use the CA BLO finish. I also use "Bobby's Supershine" on some. Look back through the threads and somewhere there is a formula for it. Its on my old harddrive in the old puter so I can't get to it right now.


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## EndTuition (May 24, 2004)

Mesquite is VERY thirsty wood. Also any friction polish has to be heated up a lot hotter than most folks beleive to really cure. It has to be "too hot to touch" to really harden. My opinion only, based on my experiances.


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## Tortuga (May 21, 2004)

On wood pens I pretty much use your routine, Tom.. Dry sand thru 600, then a good dose of EEE cream. Think my secret is REALLY dosing it good with the EEE.. Bear down on the paper towel and keep massaging it until the towel gets too hot to hold onto..and the last towel is clean looking.. That'll take it down to about 1200 grit and looks pretty smooth to me. . Then a couple of good doses of Behlens while whirling on the lathe.. I tried the Shellawax ,but it just felt sticky when I took it off the lathe...and I ain't got the patience to wait for it to dry. The Behlens will be completely dry when you take it off the lathe.. I've got some wood pens here from about a year ago and they still look pretty good to me..

"Different strokes for different strokes..etc." , but it's working for me..and the old...'if it ain't broke..don't fix it'..applies to me... Patience waiting for multi-coats and drying time is NOT my 'strong suit'..LOL.

Just keep experimenting and you'll come up with a routine you like.. I ask everybody at Rocklers how they finish their pens every time I go by , and I get a different answer from each guy each time...anything from sandpaper..wet or dry..to Brillo, to Brasso..etc....Gotta admit it IS a little confusing..LOL...

Just keep on 'strokin'.....


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## Tortuga (May 21, 2004)

http://2coolfishing.com/ttmbforum/showthread.php?t=158968&highlight=supershine

Oh...and here is Bobby's Supershine formula....


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## Viking48 (Jan 24, 2006)

biggreen said:


> If it faded after you went through the wheels then I'd guess the original finish wasn't enough. I use a CA/BLO finish and I have to do 4 or 5 coats to make sure it stays shiny. When I used just two coats the finish wouldn't be very consistent and not as shiny. Make sure your putting a lot of wax on the last wheel. It doesn't last long. Red, white, then wax right? I haven't used the finishes your useing so maybe someone else can give some details on them?
> 
> BTW, did you get that chuck cleaned up and working?
> later, biggreen
> ...


Yep - doing the red, white wax - I've been meaning to take a pic of the wheels. Went to Home Depot and bought 3/8" allthread and rigged up a setup like yours (for under 7 bucks). Works well - I appreciate the wheels. I got the chuck cleaned up almost as good as new. Haven't used it yet but it's ready. As far as being up - by the time I dropped the cartridges off to Flatfish and the pens to TexasT I got a haircut then came back across town and it was late. Took the wife to dinner then drove to Beaumont so I hooked up the laptop when I got in the room and piddled for a while.


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## Viking48 (Jan 24, 2006)

EndTuition said:


> Mesquite is VERY thirsty wood. Also any friction polish has to be heated up a lot hotter than most folks beleive to really cure. It has to be "too hot to touch" to really harden. My opinion only, based on my experiances.


I'm wondering if that's the problem - soaking in. I got the polish real hot and they really looked good when I finished. They still looked pretty good the next day but you could tell the difference in the shine. I'll try some more when I get home and see if more coats help.


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## Viking48 (Jan 24, 2006)

Tortuga said:


> On wood pens I pretty much use your routine, Tom.. Dry sand thru 600, then a good dose of EEE cream. Think my secret is REALLY dosing it good with the EEE.. Bear down on the paper towel and keep massaging it until the towel gets too hot to hold onto..and the last towel is clean looking.. That'll take it down to about 1200 grit and looks pretty smooth to me. . Then a couple of good doses of Behlens while whirling on the lathe.. I tried the Shellawax ,but it just felt sticky when I took it off the lathe...and I ain't got the patience to wait for it to dry. The Behlens will be completely dry when you take it off the lathe.. I've got some wood pens here from about a year ago and they still look pretty good to me..


When you say a couple of doses of Behlens do you allow any drying time between them? I put a good coat on them and held the rag to it until it burned my fingers then slapped another coat on and did the same thing. They were dry when I removed them and much shinier than the other finishes but I wonder if I should have let them dry a little between coats (or put more than two coats on). Trying to knock out the pens for the troops didn't allow a lot of time for drying.


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## Viking48 (Jan 24, 2006)

I appreciate the advice. Biggreen, I bought the stuff for the CA finish but hated to experiment on those pens. I'll try it soon - same with Bobby's (thanks for posting Jim). Sounds like I need to spend some time in the shop and try some different things (including wood - green Mesquite could be part of the problem). Time will tell.


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## ballard55 (Jul 14, 2008)

I can tell that most of you guys are way beyond my capabilities for wood turning. I tried it for a few years, but moved on to other hobbies. (like fishing).

Now I need some room in my garage and am selling out. If any of you know someone who would like to get into wood turning, I've just listed my entire outfit on the classifieds. I wasn't sure about the category, so I listed under "Household Items".

It's everything needed to get started and lots of good stuff too.

Thanks for your help.

Mike B.


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## Viking48 (Jan 24, 2006)

Uh Oh - Texas T better look out. The vortex is swirling.


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## Tortuga (May 21, 2004)

Viking48 said:


> When you say a couple of doses of Behlens do you allow any drying time between them?


I just put a squirt of Behlens on a paper towel and dab it on both halves while it's whirling..Repeat 3 or 4 times..Not really waiting for drying time. By the time I reach a get another towel for final rub, it's been whirling at 3000 rpm for prolly a minute so I think that air drys it.. I don't press too hard on the Behlens...the heat is important with the EEE cream but don't think it's necessary with the polish..Sure not positive on any of this..but it seems to work for me...


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## Flat Fish (Jun 18, 2005)

Here is a link to his ad.

http://2coolfishing.org/classifiedads/index.php?a=2&b=2957

Looks like a good deal to me.


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## ballard55 (Jul 14, 2008)

Thanks Flatfish for posting my link. I didn't think of that. 

Mike B.


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## Flat Fish (Jun 18, 2005)

No problem. Wish I had the jack for it. I'd love to setup a second lathe for buffing and who doesn't need more turning tools.


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## Viking48 (Jan 24, 2006)

I was thinking the same thing - wouldn't mind more tools and accessories but have no idea where I would put the lathe - thought I was doing good when I built a 40 X 40 shop but it has filled up fast.


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## Tortuga (May 21, 2004)

Man, Ballard...that setup is a STEAL !!!... What are the dimensions of that lathe table ?


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## Viking48 (Jan 24, 2006)

Tortuga said:


> I just put a squirt of Behlens on a paper towel and dab it on both halves while it's whirling..Repeat 3 or 4 times..Not really waiting for drying time. By the time I reach a get another towel for final rub, it's been whirling at 3000 rpm for prolly a minute so I think that air drys it.. I don't press too hard on the Behlens...the heat is important with the EEE cream but don't think it's necessary with the polish..Sure not positive on any of this..but it seems to work for me...


Thanks Jim - I only put two coats on those pens - I'll try more.


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## Bobby (May 21, 2004)

The only problem with your setup Ballard is the Craftsman lathe. I have had nothing but bad luck with craftsman lathes.


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## ballard55 (Jul 14, 2008)

Yes, I know the Craftsman isn't a great lathe, but the table, grinder and tools are easily worth more than I'm asking. Those casters on the table cost over $20 each. And free delivery too!

The table measures 24 x 58-inches.

I just need some space for the VW, Jeep, Kawasaki Mule, dirt bike and two boats.


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## Flat Fish (Jun 18, 2005)

That was why I suggested it as a great setup for buffing. But the tools and grinder plus table look like a great deal by themselves.

What kind of boat is that in your avatar?


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## Bobby (May 21, 2004)

Thats why I said the only problem was the lathe. Yes your right the table and rest of the stuff is great.


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## ballard55 (Jul 14, 2008)

It's a 1998 Hewes 19-foot Tunnel Drive with a 150hp Yamaha.

The Nova chuck set and Nova Cole jaws retail for about $200 at Woodcraft.


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## Viking48 (Jan 24, 2006)

May have figured out the finishing problem. Took a couple of Mesquite blanks that I had done with the others and put a couple more coats on them yesterday then buffed them. They still looked good this morning so I believe the problem was the Mesquite soaking the finish in. Guess I need to just add more finish to them in the future. I'm going to try some of the other finishes as well and see how they do. I appreciate all the advice.


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