# Building a new car.



## Gary (May 21, 2004)

I thought it would be fun to go through the steps of whats involved in building an RC car. You new guys will see something I like to do as much as I do racing them and learn something in the process. Some guys can "slap" a car together in 3-4 hours, but that aint my style. So dont sit there waiting for me to finish up tonight. Im very particular with my cars and I hope to show yall the little things that it takes to do the job right. At least I hope. LOL I have never even seen this car Im about to build, let alone know anything about it.

The car is an onroad car known as a Touring car. Its 4 wheel drive and is raced on smooth asphault. The car is an Associated TC4.

http://www.teamassociated.com/shusting/CatalogHub/kitspecs_tc4/kittc4.htm


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Opening the box is something I really enjoy! LOL Look at *all *these parts. 

Step 1 is read the book and get familiar with whats going on.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Im going in. TTYL


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Im allready having problems with the instructions. They are weak at best. No explanations whatsoever and it can be done better than the way they suggest.

These little foam donuts for the shocks are called bladders. The best built shocks NEVER have air in them. See how I put them in a small container with shock oil? And then a squish, and squish, and squish, getting every molecule of air out I can. And let them soak.


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## fishermanX (Jun 23, 2005)

*Hahahahahaha!*

Gary, you a friggin nut. I cracked up laughing when I opened this thread. Sweet car though. Are you gonna get the factory team **** for it, the grafite stuff looks pretty cool.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Andy, I might. Depends on how I like the car.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Im not going to try and cover building shocks. Each car is different and the procedures vary. The trck is to not have any air in them. You can tell if there is air in them becuase they make a squishy sound as you move the shaft in and out. You also dont want too much oil in them either. If the shaft wont bottom out, push the shaft as far in as possible and open the cap to let the excess oil out. When you push the shaft in, it should rebound slightly. When you pull it out, it should draw back in slightly. 

Sometimes it takes 3 hands to build shocks, so here is a trick I use to hold them up after I add the oil. 

Notice in the second pic? See the burrs left on those parts? On every piece that has those, you should trim those off with an X-Atco knife and I even go as far as using sandpaper to smooth the stuff out. This is especially important on things like the shock pistons and moving suspension parts. You dont want any kind of binds on anything that moves. The more time you spend now cleaning that stuff up, the smoother and better handling the car will be.

Thats the main reason I wont ever buy an RTR. Those Chinese might be good at math, but they cant build a car very well.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Once again, AE's instructions are weak at best. I built the shocks per their intructions and found that there was too much oil in them. It was hard to push the shaft in and when released, the shaft rebounded really fast. So I did them just like I do the offroad AE shocks. Push the shaft in, unscrew the top to allow the exsess oil out, and tighten the cap down. Perfect. No air and not too much oil.

This tube of green slime, is just that. Its called green slime. If you dont have any, get some. I used it liberally on the shock O Rings.

The second pic is important. You do NOT want to scratch the shaft while screwing on the ball cap thingy.

The third pic shows how to make sure all 4 shocks are the same length. Thats prolly a good idea.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

I got the shock length pretty close.

1: 2.396"
2: 2.397"
3: 2.394"
4: 2.397"

The first pic didnt turn out well, but maybe yall can see where the last spring coil ends. The end is usualy stuck on the coil from the paint. Break that loose with a flat blade screw driver. Excerise the springs 30-40 times before installation, and these are the shocks finished. The preload and ride height will be adjusted later when the car is built and loaded at race weight.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Something I forgot to warn yall about. Dont throw anything away, like these plastic "Trees". You could be throwing parts away. See that little circular thing to the right? I allmost missed it. Put everything in an old box or something just in case you have to look for something you might have overlooked.

The next steps are my least favorite. The differentials. (Diffs)


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Since every model of car and truck has different designs for their diffs, Im not going to get into a step by step thing. Insted Ill just touch on the tricks I have learned, and the most important things.

Heres what Im dealing with. Lots of little tiny ball bearing balls. I cant tell you how many hours I spent crawling around on the floor looking for that one lost ball.  DONT drop any. LOL Use a bowl or something so they dont roll off onto the floor. And most likely, the balls and the diff rings have had some sort rust prohibitive applied to them before packaging. That needs to be cleaned off. Use motor spray. (Trichcloroethylene).

*WARNING: *Motor spray will melt some plastics. Test first.

The plastic parts in the diff has a mold release compound on them and it also needs to be cleaned off. If your unsure about using motor spray on those parts, use dish soap amd an old tooth brush.

All diff parts MUST be clean and particulate free. Use a lint free towel like the blue ones.


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## cjtamu (Sep 22, 2004)

Biff, what's with the green Slime on the shock shaft threads, just a lube? I always use Chapstick. The way you described is the only way to build AE shocks. You should also be able to use Yok shock caps on the AE shocks, then you have a bleed screw.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

cjtamu said:


> Biff, what's with the green Slime on the shock shaft threads, just a lube? I always use Chapstick. The way you described is the only way to build AE shocks. You should also be able to use Yok shock caps on the AE shocks, then you have a bleed screw.


Yea Chris. I use the slime as a lube there and on the Tierod threads also. Chapstick is a good idea. Or parafin wax also.

I was thinking about the Yok caps while I was doing the shocks. But insted of buying them Ill make my own. I have the right size self tapping screw at work and I have done it before on my B3. (Stole the idea from Frosty ) Ill do that when I tear down the shocks next time. And Ill use the MIP blue seal O rings.


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## RH Customs (Aug 21, 2005)

I had no problems building my TC4 when I owned mine, then four months later the only on-road at the time in Houston closed. Yes Ill admit the instructions are bit vague as opposed to the ones for Team Losi stuff. As you had done I also used Green Slime on the shocks as well as any other threaded part. Now before you even hit the track or your street there is one upgrade I recommend as a must. That is AE's locking hex drives http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGCH4&P=Z I learned the hard way the plastic ones it comes with are a piece of you know what. First night I ran my car I wound up having to replace all the hub carriers because the wheels fit to tight and rubbed because the "fit" with the wheels was way to tight. Other than that I really liked the car. But know I own a XXX-T MF1 Stadium Truck.

RH


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## cjtamu (Sep 22, 2004)

Yeha Biff, I don't like the AE o-rings either, I use Acer Ultras. But the AE ones work great instead of foamies on the ball studs. BTW, PD they're to help keep the dirt out wich saves wear and tear on the ballcups.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

RH Customs said:


> I had no problems building my TC4 when I owned mine, then four months later the only on-road at the time in Houston closed. Yes Ill admit the instructions are bit vague as opposed to the ones for Team Losi stuff. As you had done I also used Green Slime on the shocks as well as any other threaded part. Now before you even hit the track or your street there is one upgrade I recommend as a must. That is AE's locking hex drives http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGCH4&P=Z I learned the hard way the plastic ones it comes with are a piece of you know what. First night I ran my car I wound up having to replace all the hub carriers because the wheels fit to tight and rubbed because the "fit" with the wheels was way to tight. Other than that I really liked the car. But know I own a XXX-T MF1 Stadium Truck.
> 
> RH


No kidding bro! A first timer would never be able to build this car. Right now Im on the diffs. The book calls for 2 composite diff bearings in the outdrives on each side of the diff gear. Composite means plastic bushings, well, there aint none. LOL They must of upgraded to ball bearings because thats all I can find. They should of added an addendum. Had a hard time getting them to fit too. I sure hope I dont get to bag "H" and they say to use the bearings from bag "B". LOL

Thanks for the heads up on the hub thingys. I better move some cash into my pay pal account.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

After much searching and worry. I got one of the diffs built. It turned out smooth like I hoped it would. LOL Hard to tell about the aproximate adjustment though. The book calls for tightening it all the down and then back it off a half turn. Allthough I excerised the diff thrust spring, it seems to be loosening up after sitting for awhile. If it wasnt for the plastic outdrives, I would crank down the adjustment and let it sit overnight, but Im afraid to cause a permanant deformation in the outdrives.

This is going to be one of those "Touchy Feely" things I guess.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Got the second diff built with no problems at all. Both diffs are very smooth. I dunno if yall do this, but I gradually work the diff tightening in small increments. For yall new guys, what this means is holding the diff gear and turning one of the outdrives back and forth. The oposing outdrive should turn in the oposite direction while being smooth.

This may not make much sence to you full size hot rod guys. If more explanation of how an RC ball diff works compared to a full size hot rod is interesting to you, I think we can explain it. Ill need help though. 

Welp, gonna get some lunch and then its into my favorite parts. Building the chassis and putting this all together.

BBL.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

The chassis!


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Here is another spot the instructions lack directions. This is pretty much rule of thumb in all RC applications. Its when a screw goes into something metal like the second pic. There are ball bearings where the screws go through and if I were to tighten the screw hard enough to never fall out, its possible to ruin the bearings and lock the steering bellcrank up. Thats where Loctite RULES! 

Use the blue kind. 242.


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## RH Customs (Aug 21, 2005)

Forgot to mention that, Loctice is a MUST, if not your steering magically goes bye bye and your car will want to make friends with the wall. If you have any questions on putting together the TC4 PM me. I bought mine in November and sold it in Feb not because the car was not good but because Mikes was still not open for another five months. Now If I were to do on-road again I would still buy the TC4 Team of FT edition. I thought the TC4 Team kit was the best kit I have owned.

I have had the following:

TC3 Racer
TC3 FT
Pro 3 Atushi Ahara Edition
and TC4 Team Kit.

And in my book the TC4 Team kit had to be the best one I have had and the parts are Very Durable.

RH


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Its going to get to a point where I have to start throwing down some coats of paint on the body. Where this differs from full size cars, on these we paint them from the *inside *of the clear lexan body. Im not very good at it but I dont like paying somone else to do it. Im not totally sure of the colors yet but I am sure flourence yellow and blue will be on the car. I have a few other colors I might toss in, not sure yet.

I found this sticker today, at all places, Walmart. It might end up on the hood.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

RH Customs said:


> And in my book the TC4 Team kit had to be the best one I have had and the parts are Very Durable.
> 
> RH


Thats good to know! 

I realize Im picking on the instructions book, but AE deserves the critisism. But so far, Im impressed with the quality of the parts. I had one glitch so far as fit and finish, but it was probably me getting in a hurry and not de-burring the part enough.

Also, being that when I normally buy a kit, I get the full blown race version with all the graphite stuff. I was worried about the standard chassis and if would be too "Flexy". So, of course I did the twist test. LOL Yall know what Im talking about. I was surprised at how stiff it is. Its a tad heavy, but that might be a good thing at Mikes track since its such a big track requiring alot of stability at high speeds.

So far Im suprisingly impressed with this kit. It cost me $204.99. I allmost spent $500 on a car and Im glad I didnt. Unless I find something majorly wrong later, I would highly recomend the Associated RC10TC4 Team for anyone. Especially for the cost conscience newbie.

You agree RH?


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

*Bag "D"*

Now, Im getting into the fun stuff. Lower "A"arm, upper camber link, 4 wheel drive fully independant suspension with every kind of imaginable adjustment including ackerman, caster, camber, anti squat, roll centers, bumpsteer, shock pack and rebound, YES!


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

This is really hard to explain using a keyboard. On every kit I have ever built, where the screws go into plastic or graphite, the recipient hole isnt tapped to accept the screw. The holes are cast into the molding. The problem with anything that is cast or molded is, the tolerances vary greatly. Thats why the most of the holes that a screw goes into is usualy undersized even for a self tapping scenario. This can get ugly and its a common occurance, especially when the screw is a 4/40 with a 1/16" allen head. You stand a 50/50 chance of either stripping the head out trying to get the screw in, or later trying to get it out.

I have a trick. Some of yall long time RCers might not know this. 

You can pre-tap the hole of course. But I wouldnt recomend this and Ill tell you why. When you run a tap, you *remove material* from the hole. Thats bad. In RC applications there alot of things going on like vibration, hitting things etc. Eventually, the hole will be oversized and the screw wont tighten anymore. If that happens to be a chassis, there goes 50 bucks.

Theres a process in machining called "Form Tapping". Its a way of tapping holes without removing material while making the threads stronger. What this does is to force, or squeeze the material in the hole, and surrounding the hole, and the threads itself more "Dense", therefore making it stronger than mearly tapping the hole and removing material from the hole.

Do I lose you?

Heres what I do. I slightly heat the screw and run it in partially. This not only sort of melts the plastic, when the screw is hot, its actually BIGGER. When it cools, its back to normal size, thus *forming *the threads *around *the screw. Making the hole, and the surounding area more *dense, and stronger.*

This isnt easy, it takes practice. You cant over heat the screw, nor can you run it too far all at once, and you have to learn just how long to leave the screw in the hole while it cools before backing it out.

This technique works, trust me. I never break.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

I spent more time today typing than actually working on my new car. 10 hours roughly. I might go and see what the ******** are doing. :slimer:


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## cjtamu (Sep 22, 2004)

It's a good trick Biff. And it also works if you've stripped out a hole in plastic.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

I got the front A arms mounted. It was kinda tough lining up all the parts, but this is probably the best designs I have ever seen as far as mounting the hinge pins and arms.


Its really important to have the A arms free moving and with no binds. Most guys want them to fall under their own weight. These dont but they dont bind either. I myself, prefer them that way. I cant STAND sloppy suspension parts.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

This kit comes with shims to put under the pivot blocks to change things like caster and anti squat. Im just going with the instruction books standard set up since I have no idea on what needs to be done. Thatll come later when the car is ran on the track and I get a feel for what it needs.



Got all 4 arms mounted and now its time to move on to the transmission.

So far, Im really happy with the kit. All the parts fit nicely and I havent had to break out the file or dremmel yet.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

This cant be right. The pin should engage into the recieving slot of the coupling. I hope you can verify this for me Ryan.

The first pic is the way I think it should go.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Im getting really frustrated with these instructions. There are more things that dont make sence. This is not a kit for beginners fer sure. On some kits, you can page forward in the book and fugure out whats going on, thats not the case here. I cant see any way around building the entire drive train and _test fitting _relative components.

I wonder if they have any addendums on their site? I better check huh? LOL


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

No luck there. RCtech forums has a topic for this car, but its 244 pages long. Looks like its old fashion mechanical ability time.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Looks like I guessed correctly on the rear end. The bevel gears have a slight amount of backlash, (A little wiggle between the gears), the right amount of axial play in both shafts, Im going to cover it up.


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## Hoover (May 27, 2004)

Your not done yet......hahah

Keep um' coming I'm enjoying it so far.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Im one of those perfectionists.


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## Cope (Oct 11, 2005)

Gary said:


> Im one of those perfectionists.


I may be a newbie, but you don't need that crescent wrench to build R/C cars!


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## dirtracer1 (Sep 17, 2005)

Cope said:


> I may be a newbie, but you don't need that crescent wrench to build R/C cars!


that was funny. 

hey gary.....i've got a shock building tip for you....or rather a tool you might want to look at getting. they're a set of shock shaft pliers from a company called rogue elements. there are the best shock building tool i've ever seen and they really do work. i've got a set......they are indispensible and they work on 10th and 8th scale shock shafts. they're worth every cent and they sure as heck beat that pair of needle nose pliers and a bit of cloth that yer using. check 'em out here.......

http://www.rogueelementcomponents.com/Tools.htm

btw.....great thread.


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## cjtamu (Sep 22, 2004)

Hey Biff, guess who just bought a TC4? Cristian.


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## Bigmax (Jul 21, 2004)

*Cope.*

I'm not an onroad racer myself but the crescent wrench had me going too! Waiting for a sledge to appear in place of a ballpeen now. LOL!

Biff you know I love you man!!!

Very GOOD Thread!


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## PD2 (Jul 1, 2005)

cjtamu said:


> Hey Biff, guess who just bought a TC4? Cristian.


Really?!?! Dude! That is sweet!

PD2


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Cope said:


> I may be a newbie, but you don't need that crescent wrench to build R/C cars!


Busted. 

Im a creature of habit. I have allways used that wrench on the shocks.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

dirtracer1 said:


> that was funny.
> 
> hey gary.....i've got a shock building tip for you....or rather a tool you might want to look at getting. they're a set of shock shaft pliers from a company called rogue elements. there are the best shock building tool i've ever seen and they really do work. i've got a set......they are indispensible and they work on 10th and 8th scale shock shafts. they're worth every cent and they sure as heck beat that pair of needle nose pliers and a bit of cloth that yer using. check 'em out here.......
> 
> ...


Yanno what bro? I got something like that I use for roll pins. It would would work for shock shafts too! I never thought about trying it.

Ahhh! The old RC10CE gold shocks.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

cjtamu said:


> Hey Biff, guess who just bought a TC4? Cristian.


Good.  That means I should have some very good help with set ups! :slimer:


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Bigmax said:


> I'm not an onroad racer myself but the crescent wrench had me going too! Waiting for a sledge to appear in place of a ballpeen now. LOL!
> 
> Biff you know I love you man!!!
> 
> Very GOOD Thread!


Dont forget the pipe wrench! :slimer:


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

The next step is to mount the shock towers and the shocks. Like all other moving parts, the shocks need to free from binds, but cant be too sloppy. The shock must fall under its own weight and be free through its entire arc. Thats adjusted by the nut squeezing a pivot ball on this, and most cars.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

See this slot on the plastic piece? I allways face it to the rear of the car. If you something just right, it could get dislodged and you no longer have any spring action.

Its happened to me before. LOL


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Now its starting to look like a car. The next step is to build the CVDs. (Constant velocity drives), or axles. LOL


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## yachtjim (Sep 6, 2005)

Great thread! Whenever I get a new car I always stay up all night until I finish it! Once I get started I can never pull myself away. There is always one more section in the instructions that looks quick. My favorite part is once the shocks are mounted then checking out the suspension action. Looks fun!


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

yachtjim said:


> Great thread! Whenever I get a new car I always stay up all night until I finish it! Once I get started I can never pull myself away. There is always one more section in the instructions that looks quick. My favorite part is once the shocks are mounted then checking out the suspension action. Looks fun!


The mark of a true RCer. Check the supspension, and the diff action.  Anybody thats been around for awhile, thats the first thing they do. Push the car up and down checking the suspension, and twisting the wheel feeling the diff. LOL Am I right? 

Most guys are like you. They go non stop building their cars. Ive seen guys buy a kit at the track, build it and race it that night. (Ronnie Norris ) I prefer to stretch out the building process. I really enjoy it and want to make it last.

LOL, theres a parallel to be drawn here, but I wont go there. :slimer:


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

CVDs are done. Not much to tell here. Follow the instructions and dont do like Andy Sady did, and confuse the lube and the loctite. :slimer:


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

This is a first for me. Im about to build the steering blocks and hub carriers. And there is no left or right side to these. Just like the A arms.

On other kits, pay attention.


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## Cope (Oct 11, 2005)

Gary said:


> Busted.
> 
> Im a creature of habit. I have allways used that wrench on the shocks.


GAry, that looked like a 6". I have several 4" and even a 3". That's more like what you need. Always an excuse to buy tools.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Cope said:


> GAry, that looked like a 6". I have several 4" and even a 3". That's more like what you need. Always an excuse to buy tools.


Nothing more a man hates to do, than to buy tools. :wink:


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

I got tired today. Ill continue building the car tomarrow. In the mean time, post up ideas and suggestions. For yall that are new, or want to get back into RC (Profish ), ask questions.


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## fishermanX (Jun 23, 2005)

Who is that andy sady dude, you not talkin about the 2wd stock champion of the 2nd biff racing charity challenge are you? Man, that dude was fast as heck. I think he beat everyone by a whole lap in the 3rd a main. Dude was smokin....


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## Ronnie Norris (Jul 14, 2005)

stock, what is that?.......stock is for wimps!!!!!!!!
lol


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## dirtracer1 (Sep 17, 2005)

Ronnie Norris said:


> stock, what is that?.......stock is for wimps!!!!!!!!
> lol


stock is for us old farts that arn't as fast as we used to be. the reflexes ain't what they used to be either.

but, the older i get, the better i was.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

fishermanX said:


> Who is that andy sady dude, you not talkin about the 2wd stock champion of the 2nd biff racing charity challenge are you? Man, that dude was fast as heck. I think he beat everyone by a whole lap in the 3rd a main. Dude was smokin....


I bet that stock motor was fast. I bet the tuner is about the best there is.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Being as Im about to build the hub carriers, which includes all those bearings, It made me think. Some guys belive in flushing them of the factory grease and running them dry. Some guys flush them and add one drop of oil. Some others run them as they come and consider flushing them later and adding a drop or two of oil like Marvells. I lean to the third train of thought. Id like to hear yalls thoughts.

I have my way of checking bearings for grittiness and all though I used a pen for demonstration purposes, I prefer a wood pencile. Its easy to get a feel for the action of the bearing.


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## Cope (Oct 11, 2005)

I tend to believe that the manufacturers usually know what they aredoing with bearings and such. I agree with the 3rd scenario, except I think I might use Tri-Flow(bike shop) or Rem Oil. Both have Teflon and do a good job on bearings.


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## dirtracer1 (Sep 17, 2005)

i wash the grease out.....less resistance ya know.....then oil with a bearing oil. i've never really had a problem with bearing failure either.


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## Tol Thomas (Feb 18, 2005)

I agree with the washing the grease out and replacing with oil, much freer and the bearing life doesn't seem to show any deteriation.


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## cjtamu (Sep 22, 2004)

Yep, I spray 'em and use Trinity Royal oil.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

I used too, then I started running them for the first time as is. After the first day of running the car, its coming back apart anyway to look for problems etc. Then Ill flush the factory lube out.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

This will be the first trimming I have had to do. Its the where the steering block goes into the carrier. Its too tight. Im sure the servo is strong enough to overcome the friction, but several things happen if I leave it alone. It puts undo stress on my new $75 9402. That aint gonna happen. 

It slows steering response and also uses up more battery power. When running a 4 wheel drive car using a 10x2 motor, its a good idea to save as much battery power as possible.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

A flat surface and some 220 grit is my weapon of choice. Just take a little off on *both sides* untill you like the fit.

On a side note, my flat surface of choice is a kitchen counter top. If your married, I wouldnt try this at home.

*WARNING: *Proffesional single guy on a closed course. Do *NOT *try this at home!


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Enter "Murphy's Law" here. The left side went just fine, the right side was another story. No matter what I did, when I tightened up the ball stud and the shoulder screw on the bottom, the steering block would tighten up too much. It didnt matter what I did. I tried shims, I tried everything I could think of. I choose to use loctite and back the ball stud and screw out slightly.

That, will bug me! LOL


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Welp, I got all 4 blocks and CVDs mounted. Friday Ill do the tierods. Tomarrow, Thursday, Ill be wrenching on the gas truck and getting it ready for Seaweed though. Not only has he made a generous donation to a needy family up on TTMB, he has offered a generous donation to the charity race.

I like this guy!


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## GoFaster (May 4, 2005)

still not finished with that car? hehehe


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## Hoover (May 27, 2004)

Gary I told you to finish your car and then mess with that. I'm not in a big hurry....ok so I'm lying lol....nah really finish your car first you originated the donations and I just did half of it...


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Seaweed said:


> Gary I told you to finish your car and then mess with that. I'm not in a big hurry....ok so I'm lying lol....nah really finish your car first you originated the donations and I just did half of it...


I want to get it done. Its bugging me. LOL Hopefully, since its a 3PS to a CS2P radio swap, it should be easy.


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## Hoover (May 27, 2004)

Yeha definanltly an easy swap...What ever the heck all those numbers and letters mean hahhah.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Throw in a Tekin receiver, and I really got lost. LOL

Ronnie can help us.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

I cant remember the last time I built a car with steel tierods and not titanium. I feel so, Andy Sadyish. :slimer:

The tierods have a left and right hand thread to them. Basically, they are turnbuckles and the lengths between the ball cups are adjustable. On most tierods, one end is marked with a notch indicating the left handed thread side. Its alot easier to make adjustments if you know which way to turn them to either shorten, or lengthen them. I allways put the notches on the left side of tha car so all the tierods are in the same direction.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

This drive train just doesnt feel right. Im gonna tear it back down.


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## cjtamu (Sep 22, 2004)

Biff, check your motor mount. On one of the Yoks I couldn't figure out why the drive train was dragging. I was using the Al mount and it turns out the belt was hitting it. I put my awesome Dremel skilz to work, problem solved.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

I havent installed it yet.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

This is where Im at so far. I found another issue I think and this is where keeping a keen eye is important. The instructions say to use the shorter tierods for the steering links insted of the camber rods. There is not enough adjustment in the camber rods to bring it up to negative camber, and the steering rods have very little thread engagement into the ball cups.

Swap em!


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## fishermanX (Jun 23, 2005)

Hey, steel tierods rule man.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Since Im allmost done, I need to start thinking about painting the body. I am NOT good at painting. LOL


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Yummi!


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Hey Andy! Look familar?????? :slimer:


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Well, thats as far as I can go untill I get my motor and batteries. The body is next, and dont expect some work of art here. Im not very artisic. LOL


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Most bodies on high end RC cars are made of lexan. Im not exactly sure how their made, but I think it starts as a flat sheet of lexan and formed around a mold using vacuum and heat. Which brings in mold release compound. They use this so the lexan doesnt stick to the mold. This compound needs to be washed off using something like dish soap. Otherwise, the paint wont stick.

And no, you cannot use Krylon paint.  They make a special paint just for RC bodies. It remains flexible. Ill be using Pactra. Ill also be going with flourescent colors. I bought some new yellow and green, and I still had some blue and red left over from another body. I wont be using any red since it doesnt really look good with a yellow/green sceme. I might use some blue, but Im not sure yet because I dont know what Im doing yet. 

With flourescent colors, you can actually see through the paint. It is very opaque. In order to bring out the brightness, you have to use a white "Backer". With candy colors, you have to use a silver or gold.

The bidy will be painted from the inside, not the outside. So everything you do, you have to think in reverse. Rule of thumb is, allways start out with dark colors first. They also make a product called liquid mask but I wont be using it. Since Im doing a simple design, Ill just be using blue masking tape.

I dont have a scheme in mind yet. Im just going to go for it and see what happens. Thats why I ususaly use alot of stickers. lol

Here is the body washed and the window masks installed.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Before painting, its a good idea to locate the body to the chassis. Center the body left and right, and forward and aft using the wheel markings on the body. Mark on the outside with a sharpie.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

I decided to use a little bit of blue, after much masking. LOL

Two coats and now I have to wait and let it dry being Ill be masking over it for the next color. So, I think Ill make some Tacos! :slimer:


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Taco, BiFf style!


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Insted of worrying about masking over the fresh blue paint, I went ahead and shot a coat of white overcoat so the next color wouldnt bleed through. That worked out well.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Even though I thought I had the parts of the body masked well, I still got overspray. Its a good thing I had some denatured alcohol laying around. 

The main part of the body is next.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

First coat of yellow.


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## dirtracer1 (Sep 17, 2005)

Gary said:


> Taco, BiFf style!


where's the beef biff? 

what is that nifty little piece of machine art that sorrounds the servo? that looks like a gotta have to me. i wanna. too kewl.

btw.....i'm on the edge of my seat....can't wait to see how the body is going to turn out.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

dirtracer1 said:


> where's the beef biff?
> 
> what is that nifty little piece of machine art that sorrounds the servo? that looks like a gotta have to me. i wanna. too kewl.
> 
> btw.....i'm on the edge of my seat....can't wait to see how the body is going to turn out.


That piece of metal art was something that fishermanx made. After he copied mine.  A local named Steven Fereday, (AE/Reedy) used to use an antenea tube in the same fashion. Think about it!  Thats where I got the idea and made the first alloy one. But when it comes to machining, Im a hack. Andy is an "Operator" LOL

The body is turning out better than I thought. The second coat of yellow is drying, and I think Ill let it dry overnight and do the backup tomarrow. The main part of the body has many "Crevises" and will hold , well, puddles of paint.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

I guess it turned out ok. I havent removed the outside film yet so it might seem a tad dull. Tomarrow Ill cut it out and start doing stickers. 


Im happy with it, and saved money!


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## Hoover (May 27, 2004)

Looking good Gary


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## fishermanX (Jun 23, 2005)

I got something you can "operate" biff...


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

I was sweating the body mounts and if they would line up. Pfewww! LOL


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## mongo88 (Aug 19, 2004)

Dang Gary. You are the _slowest_ car builder i have ever seen...lol

Get the electronics in that puppy and go break it.... in....lol


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

mongo88 said:


> Dang Gary. You are the _slowest_ car builder i have ever seen...lol
> 
> Get the electronics in that puppy and go break it.... in....lol


Break it, is right. LOL

It was alot of work doing this thread, and fun too. It seemed to help with the old thing of growing the hobby and helping the newbies like back in the day. Were getting some guys and were having fun doing so. Im digging it!


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Plus Drew, I got some flamers to deal with. LMAO!

Wish I was good at that.


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## mongo88 (Aug 19, 2004)

heh heh... Just be glad Im not flaming. That would be a full time job...


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

I know a place where the squirrel would be welcomed big time. Has nothing to do with RC though.


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## mongo88 (Aug 19, 2004)

heh heh.. A place where Rocky would fit in?? Do tell!


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Now that I got some time, Im back working on the car. I got the body cut out, which I hate doing. One of these days Ill invest in some curved lexan scissors.

Now comes adding stickers. Which, I like to do.  Rule of thumb is, simple paing job, lots of stickers. Trim them as close as possible.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

I broke some rules. Most guys go with very few stickers and most relate to RC. I choose the real race car look.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Mo!


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## celticpride311 (Jul 29, 2004)

WOW! Biff that makes me wanna get back into the hobby right there. It looks alot cooler now that its got some decals slapped on it. Nice work.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

celticpride311 said:


> WOW! Biff that makes me wanna get back into the hobby right there. It looks alot cooler now that its got some decals slapped on it. Nice work.


I still got some trimming to do, but Im happy with it. Thanks bro!


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

http://2coolfishing.com/ttmbforum/showthread.php?t=44723

Hint!


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## PD2 (Jul 1, 2005)

Um, where did you get the 2CRT stickers? We need more cut and ready for the charity race as well as the races. Let us know!

PD2


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## Bigmax (Jul 21, 2004)

*Dude!*

I Want Some Of Them Stickers Too!!!!!


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## dirtracer1 (Sep 17, 2005)

either those or some nifty BIFF stickers.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

I got plenty of those stickers.

I dont have any BRT stickers though.


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## Bigmax (Jul 21, 2004)

*Hook me up my Brotha!*

I have a couple of BIFF stickers I think? I was wondering if anyone knew how to duplicate some out of one?


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Bigmax said:


> I have a couple of BIFF stickers I think? I was wondering if anyone knew how to duplicate some out of one?


Which ones are they?


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Hey RH. Can you do stickers?


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## Bigmax (Jul 21, 2004)

*lemme see*

Round, Silver with black text. I ran out of the cool Silver/sparkly ones.


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## RH Customs (Aug 21, 2005)

I can make the images and stuff I just need to find a good vinyl printer/cutter or I can have them made at kinkos.

RH


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## Tol Thomas (Feb 18, 2005)

Gary, when are you going to break that toy out and get it to the track?


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Tol Thomas said:


> Gary, when are you going to break that toy out and get it to the track?


I spent my battery and motor money on Christmas for the kids. LOL. It also depends on how the overtime is when I get back to work.


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## Tol Thomas (Feb 18, 2005)

Sounds good, just let me know when and if I am not already at a race I will show up and have a good time with you guys.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Tol Thomas said:


> Sounds good, just let me know when and if I am not already at a race I will show up and have a good time with you guys.


Thanks Tol. My first day out I will need some help Im sure.


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## Tol Thomas (Feb 18, 2005)

Help? I was thinking of just lapping ya. hehe 

But of coarse I will give any assistance I can to help out a fellow racer, well almost any fellow racer.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

What? Are they giving away free laps to the offroaders? :slimer:


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## Tol Thomas (Feb 18, 2005)

If offroaders get free laps, then I should have a bunch since I am an offroad by heart.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

I need some practice before I start Smack Talking. LOL Im gonna run my MiniZ all day Friday. These little things are so quick, one lap with one, is like running 5 laps with a T/C.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

Rewired the speedo and installed a new power cap.


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## dirtracer1 (Sep 17, 2005)

hey gary.....sweet ride bro, but i got a question for ya. there are sooooo many choices out there in touring car, what sold ya on the tc4....as opposed to the losi or something else?


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

dirtracer1 said:


> hey gary.....sweet ride bro, but i got a question for ya. there are sooooo many choices out there in touring car, what sold ya on the tc4....as opposed to the losi or something else?


The truth is, it was the best car at the closest shop on that day I wanted a car. LMAO! Thats the truth bro! Im compulsive and wanted to build a car and it was the best there.

And plus, I might auction it off at the charity race, after I race it. Maybe!


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

dirtracer1 said:


> hey gary.....sweet ride bro, but i got a question for ya. there are sooooo many choices out there in touring car, what sold ya on the tc4....as opposed to the losi or something else?


OK, more truth, since your dragging it out of me. LOL I think I enjoy helping folks and growing the hobby more than I actually do racing. I mean, I love racing, but thats not the only reason I am into this hobby. Im an average, well, maybe slightly above average driver but I think what I do best is pumping the crowd up. I really enjoy that. Maybe its an ego thing, I dunno.


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## dirtracer1 (Sep 17, 2005)

Gary said:


> OK, more truth, since your dragging it out of me. LOL I think I enjoy helping folks and growing the hobby more than I actually do racing. I mean, I love racing, but thats not the only reason I am into this hobby. Im an average, well, maybe slightly above average driver but I think what I do best is pumping the crowd up. I really enjoy that. Maybe its an ego thing, I dunno.


dude....we need more gary's. you da man, bro.


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## Gary (May 21, 2004)

dirtracer1 said:


> dude....we need more gary's. you da man, bro.


Its a team effort bro! I hope everyone joins in.


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## RH Customs (Aug 21, 2005)

Gary, I will tell you know, ounce you hit the track with the TC4 you will love it. I wish I still had mine because that was the best car out of the 5 I had owned.


RH


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