# Bandsaw Fence



## trodery (Sep 13, 2006)

Do any of you folks have a fence on your bandsaws?

If not, how the heck do you get them to cut straight?

If you do have one, how do you like it?


Thanks,
Terry


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## Surf Hunter (Sep 28, 2006)

What kind of band saw? Shannon and I have a Delta Shopmaster and that thing was a bear to get adjusted right. It would always cut to the left until we took off the blade and reset everything (blade tightness, upper/lower guides, back bearing, etc.), now it works like a champ.


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## trodery (Sep 13, 2006)

I have a Jet 14"

It's possible that I don't have it set up right. Surf Hunter...you want to come set it up for me


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## Slip (Jul 25, 2006)

I have a Jet 18" and fence works great. No problems.


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## dicklaxt (Jun 2, 2005)

Definitely needs a tune up/setup

Try this

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=Tuning+your+bandsaw


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## BritishSlave (Aug 17, 2004)

Build you a sliding table that runs in the miter slot.


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## VJER (May 21, 2004)

*BritishSlave...*

Check out this site...it might help... http://www.rd.com/americanwoodworker/articles/200008/main/page4.html
It might be nothing more than adjusting the upper wheel at the bearing. I bought a used Craftsman 12" and I had some major drift issues. I adjusted the top wheel and cured my problem. I do alot of resawing, so the drift plays a major roll as to the accuracy of the cut. I hope this helps you out some...Vic


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## Surf Hunter (Sep 28, 2006)

trodery said:


> I have a Jet 14"
> 
> It's possible that I don't have it set up right. Surf Hunter...you want to come set it up for me


Sure, I'll be there around July 1st when I come out to visit my folks and tie the knot:redface: 
One thing I noticed was the tension knob on ours was factory set WAY to tight. We basically removed the blade and then did a full set up.


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## trodery (Sep 13, 2006)

Surf Hunter said:


> Sure, I'll be there around July 1st when I come out to visit my folks and tie the knot:redface:
> One thing I noticed was the tension knob on ours was factory set WAY to tight. We basically removed the blade and then did a full set up.


I just put a riser block on the saw the other day, the kit came with a new, longer blade so I had to go through all the set up steps again. I'm thinking that a different, more aggressive blad would help.


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## Slip (Jul 25, 2006)

I use a Wood Slicer blade and works great for resawing. Only comes in 1/2" blade, but does as well as any other 1" blade I have used in past. Very happy with mine. Go to link and read about it. http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=295 I don't do a lot of resawing, but when I did, this blade performed as weel as any other I have used.


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## Brew (May 21, 2004)

Bandsaw tune-up article.
http://www.owwm.com/files/PDF/FAQ/110124076.pdf

Are you having problems with resawing or just general cutting? Did you have problems prior to installing the lift block? Are you using a good quality blade?

If the problem is with resawing try a larger blade, 3/4 or 1". I haven't tried the blades SK mentioned but will be looking into them.

Also try a single point of contact resawing fence that allows you to pivot the work piece to follow a straight line.

A Zero-clearance throat plate will also help. They sell them for the Jet saw made out of UHMW plastic or you can make your own out of plywood.

Jeff


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## trodery (Sep 13, 2006)

Brew said:


> Bandsaw tune-up article.
> http://www.owwm.com/files/PDF/FAQ/110124076.pdf
> 
> Are you having problems with resawing or just general cutting? Did you have problems prior to installing the lift block? Are you using a good quality blade?
> ...


LOL...Heck no Brew, I'm not trying to do anything as complicated as resawing....I'm just trying to cut a log semi straight so that I can put it on a face plate.

Actually prior to putting the riser block on the saw I had not used it yet.


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## Slip (Jul 25, 2006)

Brew said:


> If the problem is with resawing try a larger blade, 3/4 or 1". I haven't tried the blades SK mentioned but will be looking into them.
> 
> Jeff


Click on the link I gave earlier and pick a blade and when your blade comes up, read the info given. This blade is a performer and like I said, works at least as good as my 1" (Timberwolf) blade and much easier to change blades. Don't have to change blades as often with a 1/2" blade as larger as can do more with it. Highland is only place I found that has them. I found it from another woodworking forum a few years back and everyone else swore by them. I cannot complain at all about how it works. I use the resaw guide that was provided with my Jet 18" and works well also. I don't use the fence other than the resaw guide attaches to fence. I also have roller guides on my saw and must be adjusted correct or blade can wander. Here is another link on resawing, http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=Custom&ID=19 I have used Timberwolf blades as well, and work good, but this one performs better at 1/2" blade vs much larger. IMO.


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## 3192 (Dec 30, 2004)

I bought these for my Delta years ago and have been very happy with them. The Timberwolf blade is another quality blade that should be considered. Trodery....I think the blades that come with the machine are just a budget, basic blade. You will be amazed at the difference with a quality blade on a correctly set up machine. Keep us posted. Jim
http://www.carterproducts.com/product_list.asp?cat_id=72
http://www.woodcraft.com/articles.aspx?articleid=391


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## dicklaxt (Jun 2, 2005)

Timberwolfe is the best on the market IMO,thats all I use for and get premium cuts

dick


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## Brew (May 21, 2004)

trodery said:


> LOL...Heck no Brew, I'm not trying to do anything as complicated as resawing....*I'm just trying to cut a log semi straight so that I can put it on a face plate.*
> 
> Actually prior to putting the riser block on the saw I had not used it yet.


Cutting logs lengthwise on a bandsaw is always a little tricky because the blade wants to follow the grain.

The blanks I've been getting from my Dad & from my firewood guy have all been halved with a chainsaw.

I use the Timberwolf blades that DL mentioned and also Olsens. Like Jim mentioned, the blade provided by the saw manufacturers, Vermont American and the store brands (craftsman, ridgid) are poor quality. Whatever blades you buy, it is a good idea to use a whetstone to dress the sides & trailing edge of the blade to deburr and round over the sharp back edges. Keep the stone back away from the teeth.

Jeff


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## BritishSlave (Aug 17, 2004)

trodery said:


> LOL...Heck no Brew, I'm not trying to do anything as complicated as resawing....I'm just trying to cut a log semi straight so that I can put it on a face plate.
> 
> Actually prior to putting the riser block on the saw I had not used it yet.


This is where the sliding table shines. It is designed for cutting logs, boards, whatever that do not have a square side. I use mine for cutting bowl blanks from mesquite logs up to 12" in diameter. I use a Shopsmith cross cutting table on my Jet 14" bandsaw with the 6" riser. The miter bar from the Shopsmith 500 is the same width as the slot in the Jet table.
I first cut the log to a length equal to the diameter, then split the log on the bandsaw using the sliding table. Then cut the bowl blank semi-round using a circle jig I built just for cutting the mesquite. Then dip the end grain in melted parafin to seal for drying.

BTW, to mount on a face plate you probably need to hand plane the mounting surface.


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## Sportyguy66 (May 31, 2006)

Heck I just use a piece of wood and two clamps


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## Bobby (May 21, 2004)

You mean bandsaws are supposed to cut straight lines?????:smile: 
Mine never has cut straight.


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