# Such a thing as a bad broadhead?



## brazman (Aug 22, 2006)

Newb question here, so go easy on me. I'm looking for broadheads for my first bowhunting season, and like any other hobby, there's lots to choose from. And, like any other hobby, everyone has their opinion about what's best and what's ****. I can tell the difference between the cut on contact's and the chisel tips and the mechanicals vs fixed, etc. but is there really that big of a difference? I mean, if it flies straight, what's the difference between three razo blades going through a deer vs four, or whether these cost $10 or those cost $40 on up?

Enlighten me :spineyes:


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## Bearkat2004 (Jan 31, 2011)

people will argue with this, but it's 90% personal preference, and 10% everything else, the only true thing is to look for a broad head that has good blades, ones that are thick enough to cut through bone/flesh without damaging it, and ones that are sharp.

right now I hunt with 4 different broad heads, 3blade, 4 blade, mechanical 2 blade, and a cut on contact 4 blade.


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## Tombstone (May 19, 2009)

Bearkat2004 said:


> people will argue with this, but it's 90% personal preference, and 10% everything else, the only true thing is to look for a broad head that has good blades, ones that are thick enough to cut through bone/flesh without damaging it, and ones that are sharp.
> 
> right now I hunt with 4 different broad heads, 3blade, 4 blade, mechanical 2 blade, and a cut on contact 4 blade.


I agree with Bearkat in that it is mostly personal preference as far as whether you want to shoot 2,3,or 4 blade heads. Where the real decision comes in is do you want to shoot mechanical vs. fixed blade. Just like with hooks and fishing line, there are **** broadheads. Do a search through some of these threads and you will see what alot of ppl are using. Don't skimp with your broadheads, its the most important aspect of bowhunting next to shot placement. I made that mistake when I started, and it is not fun to lose your first deer.


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## THE JAMMER (Aug 1, 2005)

I think broadheads is a very interesting subject, and agree with those before that it is a lot of personal preference, which is heavily influenced unfortunately by advertising. You hear a guy say, "Man that xyz broadhead is the best. It works every time. I'[ll never use anything else." The only way to determine which broadhead does a better job than another one is to shoot the same broadhead, on the same arrow, out of the same bow, at the same distance, at the same deer, and hit it in the same place--IMPOSSIBLE. So every "assessment of a broadhead's performance will be, by definition, a subjective opinion, unless empirical testing is done.

I once went to an archery conclave when I lived in Albuquerque (OTC elk licenses the day before the season- those were the days) in which one of the featured speakers was Judd Cooney- some of you old guys might remember him from 20-30 years ago. Back then you could not pick an outdoor magazine that did not have an article or pictures from Judd. This point in time was when all the new fangled, multi blade, chisel point, new age broadheads were coming out, and the new hot b'head of the month was the Razorbak (5 or 7 blades I think). The main question back then was should we accept the lesser penetration of a multi blade broadhead (this was before arrows were going warp 9).The question from the audience was, "Judd would you rather have a 4 blade hole in one lung, or a 2 blade hole in both lungs?" His answer was, "I would rather have a pencil hole through both lungs than a 10 blade hole through one lung." Pretty telling.

So for me it's a question of penetration ability of a broadhead. Today, when most of us are shooting250-350 fps, it's almost a moot point on deer type animals. So as long as your broadhead stays together upon penetration, does it really matter how far on the other side of the animal your arrow ends up, as long as you get total penetration. An interesting aside, many have said that rather than a complete pass through, you might be better off having the arrow hanging out both sides of the animal. Every time that arrow hits a bush, it will aggravate the wound, etc. I think there's a lot of truth to that.

Now on heavier skinned animals, elk,etc. some types of points start to degrade in their ability to penetrate. I have read extensively on this subject, and one of the gurus is Ed Ashby (http://tradgang.com/ashby/Broadhead%20Performance.htm) This is long, but worth reading.

Another test I saw was taking a stretched elk hide, and then taking various types of heads and pushing them downward into the hide and measuring how many pounds of force it took to penetrate the hide. The chisel type "non-coc" heads took an amazing amount of force compared to the coc b heads. In other words a lot of that energy is eaten up just getting past the hide.

So bottom line, as I've said before, if a broadhead has ANY history of failure, it ain't gonna be on my arrows. I want the one that works EVERY time- not the one that has the most advertising hype. Remember all of those TV people have a vested interest in recommending a certain product- money in their pocket. Do you think that if Lee and Tiffany (complete fox but a complete airhead also) lost Hoyt as their sponsor, but then picked up PSE, that all of a sudden PSE would be the greatest bow since...... ????

Just one of the many observations I've made after 55 years of shooting bows. First deer 1963, 17 yrs old, 48# red wing hunter recurve, 40 yards out of a treestand, homemade wooden arrow, Bear Razor head, Baxter Pass Colorado.


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## PENSTX (Jul 18, 2011)

There are lots of good broadheads but over the years i have went with MAGNUS STINGER BUZZ CUTS, or STEELFORCE both the same style broad head. For about a year i shot CRIMSON TALON and they are by far the most deadly broadhead made in my mind but they dont fly worth a ****. All in all i would just sugest anything that IS NOT a mechanical!


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## brazman (Aug 22, 2006)

Thanks to all for your input. I guess I might just try several and see how they fly. I'm looking at some Crimson Crocs (look very similar to Buzzcuts, serrated blades) for $10 for three. Any thoughts? http://cgi.ebay.com/Crimson-Croc-Broadheads-/260820925513?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cba237c49

BTW I'll only be taking a 20-25 yd shot with them.


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## THE JAMMER (Aug 1, 2005)

The problem with the buzz cuts/serrated is that you can't resharpen them. One shot into the dirt, they are done.


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## Tombstone (May 19, 2009)

I wouldn't suggest the crimson crocs. I have heard they do damage, but the curved blades will break and dont fly as well like baffinPen said. Once you shoot them they are done. IMO I would go with Slick Trick magnums or some muzzy mx-3. Both are proven heads, are reasonably priced, and you can get replacement blades for them.


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## NitroNX898 (Apr 7, 2009)

I have to agree with everything that is said, but I will add this to what Jammer brought up about Judd and penetration. I shoot alot of traditional archery and I have shot compounds for over 30 years and what I want from my bh are totally differant. On my compound a want a total pass through with a bh that will give me a wide cut and will stay intact the whole way through and still be sharp. As for my longbows I want a heavy stay sharp cut on contact blade ( I know that I won't get a pass through and don't depend on it so) I want a sharp bh that will pass through both lung and that will hang inside the animal and cut things up on the inside as the animal runs through the woods bouncing the arrow off of things. The same theroy goes for when my boys started hunting with a 40# compound bow. But what ever you use make sure you buy extra and shoot them before you go hunting to make sure they will fly right.


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## THE JAMMER (Aug 1, 2005)

NitroNX898 said:


> I have to agree with everything that is said, but I will add this to what Jammer brought up about Judd and penetration. I shoot alot of traditional archery and I have shot compounds for over 30 years and what I want from my bh are totally differant. On my compound a want a total pass through with a bh that will give me a wide cut and will stay intact the whole way through and still be sharp. As for my longbows I want a heavy stay sharp cut on contact blade ( I know that I won't get a pass through and don't depend on it so) I want a sharp bh that will pass through both lung and that will hang inside the animal and cut things up on the inside as the animal runs through the woods bouncing the arrow off of things. The same theroy goes for when my boys started hunting with a 40# compound bow. But what ever you use make sure you buy extra and shoot them before you go hunting to make sure they will fly right.


X 10 on that. I've only started shooting compounds the last 3 months. All of my other experience is with recurves and longbows, and I totally agree with that coc for them. I have too many of them. 65# Dan Quillian Patriot recurve for sale, and a 64# Dick Robertson longbow for sale. Just learned this week that in addition to my right shoulder rotator cuff surgery I had 14 months ago, I am no going to have to have it on the left shoulder. **** I'm getting whittled down here. I'm doing the same thing with my son, who started on compounds 4 months ago. Even though he's shooting 50# now, we are still using 100 gr fixed blade Magnus.


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## NitroNX898 (Apr 7, 2009)

Jammer, I'm am now going through the same shoulder problems as you did. I just have too much stuff going on that I hate to go to a doctor knowing what he will tell me. Magnus is a great bh. My Bob Sarrels longbows like the Simmons Tree sharks. I shoot a 68# superstition longbow and a 64# wildcat recurve and as you know that really feels good.


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## brazman (Aug 22, 2006)

Looking into some Magnus bh'es. Thanks for the tips, guys, as always!


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## NitroNX898 (Apr 7, 2009)

Another thing I like about the Magnus bh, you can sharpen them razor sharp, shoot them into a target, and sharpen them again and again. They are one of the easiest bh to sharpen.


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## NitroNX898 (Apr 7, 2009)

Look into the Muzzy phantoms. The fly great and can be sharpened very easy too


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## THE JAMMER (Aug 1, 2005)

Fred Eighler swears by Phantoms. Of course his wife owns the company, I think. But they are a great broadhead- just twice as expensive as Magnus.

One observation:

Phantoms: 1 1/8" diameter, blade thickness .036"

Magnus: 1 1/4" diametr, blade thickness .055"


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## brazman (Aug 22, 2006)

Picked up a 6-pack of Muzzy 3 blades. Even figured out how to put em together! Might still pick up another kind/brand to have something to compare to, but who knows. Seems kinda like putters in golf...this putter will SAVE your game, and next year, it's THIS putter...etc etc ad nauseum ;-) Thanks for the input though, guys.


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## THE JAMMER (Aug 1, 2005)

brazman said:


> Picked up a 6-pack of Muzzy 3 blades. Even figured out how to put em together! Might still pick up another kind/brand to have something to compare to, but who knows. Seems kinda like putters in golf...this putter will SAVE your game, and next year, it's THIS putter...etc etc ad nauseum ;-) Thanks for the input though, guys.


Roger that!! It seems it's tied to which company currently has the largest advertising budget.


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