# about to buy some broadheads



## Dark_ale (Oct 10, 2007)

Anyone use the muzzy mx-3. Heard allot of good things about it, read allot of good things about it, Shooting pigs and Deer.


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## bountyhunter (Jul 6, 2005)

They are fixed blade which I perfer but I'm a Magnus Snuffer guy (real fixed blades) because they don't fail.


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## 11andy11 (Aug 12, 2004)

I switched to muzzys this year and shot a deer quartering away from me and the arrow passed through the deer diagonally lengthwise. Went through the front shoulder and came out in front of the rear quarter. I was pleased. And they are priced right.


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## gulfcoast200 (Jun 26, 2004)

I shoot the standard 3 blade and the Muzzy MX4 4 blade, I like the MX4 better the cutting diamater is might be 1/16" less than than the MX3 but you have more surface cutting area than the MX3. Either way you go you can't wrong with a Muzzy.


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## HillCountryBasser (Aug 26, 2008)

I hear good things about muzzy's...about to buy my first broadheads myself. I noticed that the ones I've seen are in pieces that have to be put together...are they all like this? Is it difficult to put them together?


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## golfer47 (May 13, 2006)

I like NAP Razorcaps they seem to fly without fishtailing.


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## huntr4life (Apr 30, 2007)

HillCountryBasser said:


> I hear good things about muzzy's...about to buy my first broadheads myself. I noticed that the ones I've seen are in pieces that have to be put together...are they all like this? Is it difficult to put them together?


Very easy to assemble and come with a practice blade. I use the Muzzy's and was pleased with it. No problems here. Good Luck!


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## Chunky (Oct 15, 2006)

I don't use Muzzys but they are a name brand that has been around for along time. They have a good rep.


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## flymost (Nov 6, 2006)

I like the regular Muzzy 3 blade, If you have the time (and money) you can try multiple heads to see which you can get to fly the best. But whatever you decide upon, make sure that it is a good tough head. I had a bad shot this year where my broadhead struck the opposite hind quarter. The deer went 80 yards and when I butchered it it looked like I shot it with a .300 and I could have easily used the broadhead without resharpening (which I wouldn't do though). Go to Archerytalk and there are a million threads about this subject with the slick trick being the one they usually like the best.


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## nhampton (Aug 8, 2007)

The three things a broadhead must be are to be extremely sharp, hold together, and be accurate. Most will do well in the first two catagories but the faster the bow the harder it is to get them to group well and in the same place as your field points. I tried muzzy nap and several others and had a few issues with each as to accuracy. As an experiment i tried the nap spitfire mechanical. There was no difference in poi with them and they grouped as well as the field pts. so I tried them in shooting does. Haven't failed to have a pass through yet with fully opem cutting pattern in and out. I now shot the spitfire pro extra cutter in center and my only objection is price about $13 each.


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## bountyhunter (Jul 6, 2005)

golfer47 said:


> I like NAP Razorcaps they seem to fly without fishtailing.


Good looking broadhead, looks a lot like the Snuffers.



flymost said:


> I like the regular Muzzy 3 blade, If you have the time (and money) you can try multiple heads to see which you can get to fly the best. But whatever you decide upon, make sure that it is a good tough head. I had a bad shot this year where my broadhead struck the opposite hind quarter. The deer went 80 yards and when I butchered it it looked like I shot it with a .300 and I could have easily used the broadhead without resharpening (which I wouldn't do though). Go to Archerytalk and there are a million threads about this subject with the slick trick being the one they usually like the best.


The faster the bow the more important the tuning of both the bow and the arrows are to making broadheads fly right. Sometimes it takes a lot time to get them all to work together. I've even seen where one broad in a pack would fly right no matter what arrow it was on, while the rest fly perfect. That is why you should practice with all your broadheads and this is especially true if you are shooting fixed blades.



nhampton said:


> The three things a broadhead must be are to be extremely sharp, hold together, and be accurate. Most will do well in the first two catagories but the faster the bow the harder it is to get them to group well and in the same place as your field points. I tried muzzy nap and several others and had a few issues with each as to accuracy. As an experiment i tried the nap spitfire mechanical. There was no difference in poi with them and they grouped as well as the field pts. so I tried them in shooting does. Haven't failed to have a pass through yet with fully opem cutting pattern in and out. I now shot the spitfire pro extra cutter in center and my only objection is price about $13 each.


Glad the Spitfires have worked for you, but I've seen personally where they have failed to open on impact twice. Both times made for a long day of tracking and one deer lost.


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## SchickeP (Dec 17, 2007)

Get you some SLICK TRICKS.Best broadhead i have ever shot.Razor sharp out of the package and fly just like field tips.And tough.Try em,you will like them.


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## Dwagg (May 23, 2007)

I have used the Muzzy 4 blade for the past few years and they leave a heck of a hole. I have been very pleased with them. I bought some Muzzy Phantoms to try out this year just because they look Bad A**.


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## TXPalerider (May 21, 2004)

SchickeP said:


> Get you some SLICK TRICKS.Best broadhead i have ever shot.Razor sharp out of the package and fly just like field tips.And tough.Try em,you will like them.


I prefer the Slick Tricks myself.

Although, if I were going to shoot any other broadhead it would probably be the Shuttle T-lock or Muzzy Mx3 or Mx4. Next in line would probably be G5 Strikers.

Good luck!!


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## TX CHICKEN (Jun 4, 2004)

I use Muzzy MX3 for piggies but also have had good luck with Slick Trick-The Slick Tricks are not as readily available but some bow shops have them and of course online.


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## BigPig069 (May 20, 2006)

I have shot Muzzy 3 Blade 100 grain regular Broadheads for about 20 years + or - a couple, I have gone to the wayside and tried other broadheads that have came out and were suppossed to be the Next Greatest Thing, but always went back to the one that took me to the dance, You can't beat Muzzy in my opinion. That is Why (They Are Bad to The Bone)


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## Coach_Stew (Dec 29, 2004)

slick trick or rage


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## Spec-Rig.006 (Nov 2, 2007)

Slick Trick if you're looking at a conventional three (or 4) blade broad head ... Magnus Stingers or Zwickiy points if you want a fixed blade ... HANDS DOWN ... and all priced very, very reasonably, resharpenable, they pass straight through, and are reusable ... No contest.

Useability and function is more important that looks and brand name.

You will _never_ be disapointed.


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## TXPalerider (May 21, 2004)

Just so there isn't any confusion. All Slick Tricks are fixed 4 blade.


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## apainter (Jul 1, 2008)

i am looking into buying my first broadheads at the moment and most of my friends as well as the guy at the bow shop reccomend the rage mechanical. I'm not to sure though after looking at the price. Very expensive! They seem to be top of the line, but i am definitely a believer that you don't have to spend a ton on whats supposed to be the best to have success on anything i do. You may look into them though if you don't mind the price, and if anyone has any feedback about these please share. I would love to know.


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## THE JAMMER (Aug 1, 2005)

The Muzzy is a chisel point, and not a cutting point. For Texas whitetail, and at the speeds that most compounds shoot today, it's really a moot point. "How far on the other side of the animal do you want your arrow to go?" Almost any broadhead will get a complete pass through.

A cutting style head, like the fixed blade Magnus or zwickey, will penetrate further than a chisel point. There was a very famous test done many years ago, where they took an elk hide and stretched it tight. They then took arrows with various broadheads on them and pushed them down at 90 degrees on the elk hide to see how many pounds of pressure were needed to actually penetrate the hide. The number of pounds for a muzzy type broadhead vs. a cutting type head was a huge difference- I can't remember exactly, but I think it was like almost 3 times as much to get through. In other words a lot of energy is used up in just getting through the hide with a chisel type point.

I once saw a video of an elephant which was shot with a 2 bladed Zwickey, and it died in 30 seconds.

Nuff for me.

THE JAMMER


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## TXPalerider (May 21, 2004)

apainter said:


> i am looking into buying my first broadheads at the moment and most of my friends as well as the guy at the bow shop reccomend the rage mechanical. I'm not to sure though after looking at the price. Very expensive! They seem to be top of the line, but i am definitely a believer that you don't have to spend a ton on whats supposed to be the best to have success on anything i do. You may look into them though if you don't mind the price, and if anyone has any feedback about these please share. I would love to know.


First of all, I would not make your broadhead decision based on price. It's not like you are going to loose a whole lot of them. And you should be able to kill several animals with the same head.

As far as the Rage, I have heard good things about them. They are probably the most popular mechanical out there. But, I have also heard about failures. When I was growing up, my Dad always said, *"If it's mechanical, it can and will fail eventually."* The question then is, when will it fail? On a pig? On a doe? Maybe on a 160" buck of a lifetime!!

Personally, I only use fixed blade broadheads (Slick Tricks, Razor Tricks). They don't fail. And on Texas whitetails, penetration is not an issue.

Having said that, there is a place for mechanicals. If your bow, in it's hunting set up, is truly shooting over 275 fps I might consider a mechanical. Once hunting speeds exceed 275 fps (which is a very small % of bows), fixed heads can have planing issues. But, under 275, you should have no problem getting today's fixed blades to fly like a field point from a tuned bow. Also, if you are hunting somewhere where long range shots in windy conditions are expected, you might want to use one. Or lastly, if you are too lazy to tune your bow. It's better to be accurate and risk a broadhead failure than to not know where your arrow will hit because your broadhead flies wildly.

Other than the reasons I listed above, I see absolutely no need to shoot a mechanical. But, if I was, it would probably be the Rage 2.

Go to archerytalk.com or texasbowhunter.com and search broadheads. You will see every broadhead known to man listed as a favorite. However, you will also see a very high percentage of recurring brands. The pattern won't be hard to notice. Bowhunters may initially buy a product based on hype, but when it all boils down, they use what works.:work:

Good Luck! That's my 2 cents.


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## OL' LUNGBUSTER (Mar 3, 2008)

Yeah..i've had the Rage fail on me. I personally am fond of the magnus line of broadheads.(stingers,buzzcuts) But have shot NAP thunderheads, Crimson Talons, and now this year, Grim Reaper broadheads. Don't choose on price, choose on reliabilty and durability. Get one that will fly well with your setup and have fun.


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## Chunky (Oct 15, 2006)

Okay, I am stuck on the midnight shift and bored...so I am pulling up my soap box here. Chunky on broadheads.

I don't like mechanicals. I know that some guys love them and have had great success with them....but, I have seen toooo many fail. Just this year at our deer lease (so don't give me that line about they are much improved from when they first came out) a kid shot a doe with this type of head. I don't remember the brand, but the blades did not open. When we recovered the deer (lucky), the little rubber O ring was still in place and the head still closed. It was like shooting the deer with a field point. If a guy tells me that mechanicals the only kind of head he can get to fly correctly, that tells me he either doesn't have the skill or the desire to tune his bow correctly.

No matter what type of broadhead you shoot you should spin each arrow to make sure the head is stright on the shaft. This is not as big a problem as it was 20 years ago, but you will still get the occasional one that wobbles, and you will have bad flight. There are ways to fix this, but that is another thread...the point is don't shoot any arrow that is not true.

Next fact, you must always shoot RAZOR sharp heads. Dull heads will not cut veins and tissue but rather push through. If you have ever seen the rubber band demonstration you know what I am talking about.

You should always practice with the hunting arrows you are going to use. You can not assume that your practice arrows and broadheads will fly and strike the same, even if they are the same grains. You should be sighted in for broadheads before you go hunting. If your practice and hunting arrows hit the exact same...good for you, you are lucky.

I like to shoot fixed blade, resharpenable heads...in two blade Magnus and Zwicky style, and in three blade Snuffer or Woodsmans. I like to shoot the exact head and arrow that I am going to hunt with, and then take a file and put an edge back on it. Reuseable heads are much cheaper.

If you go with a replaceable blade type head, like thunderhead, muzzy, etc. You need to replace the blades after practicing with them. They get dull after just a few shots. The same goes after shooting an animal. Maybe you can get away with using them twice, but I won't do that. We get so few shots at animals, I don't want to take any chances that my head might not be sharp enough. The animals deserve the sharpest head and the quickest death we can give them.

Two blade heads will penetrate better, three or more will do more damage. This is of course a trade off. I shoot traditional, so penetration is always a concern. When hunting big things like elk, moose, kudu, I will always use a two blade head. When hunting whitetails, antelope, turkey, I will often use a three blade.

Every bowhunter should read the Ashby reports on heads. I don't agree with all of it, but it is very educational.

All of the name brands heads are going to do a good job as long as you put them in the right place. If you put them in the wrong place is when the type of head makes a difference.

Good luck, I hope all your blood trails are short and easy to follow.


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## bountyhunter (Jul 6, 2005)

Chunky great post! We see eye to eye on every point you made. We also see eye to eye on our choice of broadheads, I shoot Snuffers with my compound and Woodsman with my longbow.

Like I said in a previous post I've also personally seen mechanicals fail. Spitefires twice and 3 other's that I don't remember the brand. 3 of those I've seen have been kids shooting slower, less poundage bows. Not sure if that has anything to do with it, but it might. I personally won't use them and anyone that hunt's on my place can't use them either. 

It took me a long time to learn how to tune my arrows to shoot right with my broadheads. I've found over the years that it is easier to get my arrows to fly right if I build them myself. Because I prefer the 3 blade style, I always make sure that my blades and my fletching line up. To do this I mate a broadhead to an arrow at time of building. That broadhead and arrow stay together their whole life. On carbon arrows (what most folks are using today) I cut my arrow to size, then I put a broadhead on an insert and without glue put it in the arrow and spin test it. If there is no wobble, I mark the arrow and insert to show alignment. If there is some wobble, then I twist the insert in the arrow some and spin test again. I repeat this until there is no wobble then make my alignment marks. Some times you have to remove the insert and use a little sandpaper on the end of the shaft to get it not to wobble. 

Once the arrow and broadhead combo pass the spin test and are marked, I pull the insert, add glue and put it back in the arrow so my marks line up. I also do one more spin test before the glue dries. When I move to fletching, I make sure to start so my nock feather/vane is aligned with one of my blades. With three blade heads, after the first one is aligned the others will be as well. After they are built, then test shooting is in order. From time to time I'll find one that doesn't fly just right, and if I don't like how an arrow flies, it is marked and demoted into my practice only arrows. Now this might not all be totally necessary, but it is what works for me so I'm not changing a thing, us old men get set in our ways and can be hardhead like that sometimes&#8230;.


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## dirzo (May 13, 2005)

i agree with the others with the slick tricks i love em.i have tried a lot of dif broadheads and will prob never try another since i started shootin them


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