# Lime & Pewter wading rod



## CoastalBent (Aug 3, 2006)

This is the second of the two rods I've been working on for Hueyfisher. It's a 6'10" Rainshadow RX8 XSB822.5 with a minima seat and spiraled 3.5 Fuji Titanium Micros. The colors on the tiger are metallic lime green and pewter on bottom, with nylon charcoal on top with no cp. The guides are wrapped in the metallic lime with pewter trim. I'm expecting some big fish pics with these rods soon!!!


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## conk (Mar 25, 2007)

That is really sharp. I especially like the cork work.


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## Freshy (Dec 2, 2009)

I love it! Bet it's ultra light.


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## YAKNTX (Jun 6, 2010)

Great looking rod,The detail is sharp and crisp. Your customer will really like it.


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## Wafflejaw (Jun 15, 2010)

Looks super clean Kyle!...The handle looks great!,nice work.


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## Raymond Adams (Apr 17, 2008)

Very clean work as usual Kyle!

You have a unique style too.


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## xxxxxQTRODS (Nov 17, 2009)

*bennie*

nice!!!!


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## Jrob78 (Jun 13, 2010)

Very nice work! The grips look fantastic!


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## Terrynj (Jun 27, 2006)

Beautiful rod Kyle! Love your treatment on the grips and threadwork! Very clean!


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## Savage Rods (Apr 27, 2005)

Kyle, that is real nice. Beautiful work


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## d4rdbuilder (Jan 19, 2007)

Nice... Very well done Kyle!


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## Goags (May 28, 2004)

Well, you can only make him the right equipment...the pressure is on Huey now! Beautiful fit and finish. I bet that jewel is LIGHT- did ya weigh it?


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## CoastalBent (Aug 3, 2006)

I didn't weigh it. I'd say it's probably in the neighborhood of a little over 3oz. The burl cork is a little heavier than natural cork, but the top end on this rod is super light with the micros. Thanks guys!!!!:cheers:


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## johnmyjohn (Aug 6, 2006)

Like the others said, I believe shades of green is one of my favorite color mix.


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## toneyc (Sep 19, 2007)

CoastalBent said:


> This is the second of the two rods I've been working on for Hueyfisher. It's a 6'10" Rainshadow RX8 XSB822.5 with a minima seat and spiraled 3.5 Fuji Titanium Micros. The colors on the tiger are metallic lime green and pewter on bottom, with nylon charcoal on top with no cp. The guides are wrapped in the metallic lime with pewter trim. I'm expecting some big fish pics with these rods soon!!!


That is a clean rod,

I'm new to rod building and I was wondering if you could enlighten me on something hwell:. My question is about the front half of the reel seat (the piece that screws onto the reel foot). What are you using on each side of it to fill in the gaps? -- winding checks or an epoxy ramp?


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## johnmyjohn (Aug 6, 2006)

toneyc said:


> That is a clean rod,
> 
> I'm new to rod building and I was wondering if you could enlighten me on something hwell:. My question is about the front half of the reel seat (the piece that screws onto the reel foot). What are you using on each side of it to fill in the gaps? -- winding checks or an epoxy ramp?


 It seems there's different people and different ways. I've found just holding it on end and finish filling with 5 min. epoxy will do it, it takes up real quick. Another method I've used on bigger reel seats is go to the auto parts place and ask to see there ''o'' ring gasket supply and pick what looks close to filling the gap and roll it on. Flex coat will do the rest. You can also use a little putty to stop the epoxy from running in till it hardens if the gap is bigger. Keep in mind those cut offs need all the glue surface they can get. I'm sure these guys that do it all the time will have better suggestions.


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## CoastalBent (Aug 3, 2006)

toneyc said:


> What are you using on each side of it to fill in the gaps? -- winding checks or an epoxy ramp?


On this one, I used both. The threaded barrel has a graphite arbor running the full length and sanded smooth at each end to make it square. There is a black rubber winding check with a thin trim band of green thread at the ends. I covered both the thread and the entire winding check with Threadmaster lite, then a thick coat of TM original to make a little ramp. For me, this setup is a good combination of strength, weight, and comfort....


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## toneyc (Sep 19, 2007)

Thank you for that explanation, that was very helpful. I asked because I wanted to build my first rod using the Pac Bay Minina's and I wanted to achieve a very clean look. 

Your rods look great.

Thanks again


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## toneyc (Sep 19, 2007)

CoastalBent said:


> The threaded barrel has a graphite arbor running the full length and sanded smooth at each end to make it square.


 Doesn't the graphite arbor take up most of the empty space that would normally be occupied by rod bond epoxy? I guess I'm having a hard time understanding how you get enough epoxy into such a tiny space if there is an arbor running the full length of the barrel. --- ??


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## toneyc (Sep 19, 2007)

johnmyjohn said:


> It seems there's different people and different ways. I've found just holding it on end and finish filling with 5 min. epoxy will do it, it takes up real quick. Another method I've used on bigger reel seats is go to the auto parts place and ask to see there ''o'' ring gasket supply and pick what looks close to filling the gap and roll it on. Flex coat will do the rest. You can also use a little putty to stop the epoxy from running in till it hardens if the gap is bigger. Keep in mind those cut offs need all the glue surface they can get. I'm sure these guys that do it all the time will have better suggestions.


Great ideas, thanks!


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## CoastalBent (Aug 3, 2006)

toneyc said:


> Doesn't the graphite arbor take up most of the empty space that would normally be occupied by rod bond epoxy? I guess I'm having a hard time understanding how you get enough epoxy into such a tiny space if there is an arbor running the full length of the barrel. --- ??


I glue the arbor in first with Rod Bond. The whole exterior of the arbor is covered, so there's a really strong bond to the seat. From there, I drill it out with a Flex Coat pilot bit and then ream it to fit just like a grip. There's a thin coat of rod bond against the blank, and since it's covering everything, it's plenty strong to hold it in place. I think that method gives you the lightest setup. In the past, I have done a masking tape arbor and left a section out in the middle of the tape to fill with rod bond. I've also tried a tape arbor in the middle and pouring epoxy in from the top... The arbor method is the least messy and is lighter than filling the barrel with a bunch of epoxy.


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## toneyc (Sep 19, 2007)

Gotcha! 

Thank you! :cheers:


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