# Tile in bathtub area



## FOUL HOOKED (Jan 3, 2006)

I have standard cream plastic up on the walss surrounding my tub and want to rip it out and replace it with the same tile that I layed on the floor. I'm assuming there's sheet rock behind it so if I apply mortar to the walls will the tile stick to it ok. I know it does to wood (I layed tile to the up risers of my stairs).


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## Team S.A. Blue (Sep 8, 2004)

it will stick. you might tear up the sheetrock behind the plastic that you have now. If you do replace with green sheetrock and install the tile as you described.


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## redman35 (Jul 1, 2008)

i would take off the sheet rock around the tub and put up durarock board and than i would use a mastic to adhere the tiles and than you would use a unsanded grout on the walls.


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## jaycf7 (May 30, 2009)

Did the same thing a few years back......DEFINATLY use some sort of Backerboard.


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## FOUL HOOKED (Jan 3, 2006)

Team S.A. Blue said:


> it will stick. you might tear up the sheetrock behind the plastic that you have now. If you do replace with green sheetrock and install the tile as you described.


There's green sheetrock up now, I remember from when I tore the wall paper off and painted. I hope this will work, I have some extra tile and dont wanna completely rework my bathroom. But dont want a shoty job either!



redman35 said:


> i would take off the sheet rock around the tub and put up durarock board and than i would use a mastic to adhere the tiles and than you would use a unsanded grout on the walls.


I'm familiar with durarock board but will the green rock work too? And unsanded grout for what between the tiles? Sorry this will be my second tile job even though the first time turned out quite well!


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## RB II (Feb 26, 2009)

The green rock will work, just not the newest and bestest backer board. They make hardi-backer which is very similar to dura rock in 1/4". You might want to use the 1/4" hardi for the backer over the green rock but IMO not required. It would certainly work as an over-layment if the green rock was damaged during the tile removal.


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## redman35 (Jul 1, 2008)

The sheetrock if you get a leak will mold and start to decay, where the backerboard is made out of concrete.


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## qapd (Nov 10, 2004)

Foul Hooked,

Don't waste your time and money putting tile over sheetrock. Do it right one time. Remove any sheetrock you are proposing to put tile over. Put up some type of cement backer board. Seal joints of backer board with mesh tape and cover with thin set. If you really want a 1st class job look into covering the cement backer board with a product call Schluter Kerdi (order it at Home Depot) this product is a rubber membrane that completly water proofs the tub surround. Then tile as you normally would.

Don't ask how I know. This is easy to do, just takes time. I am in the process of redoing a bathroom at our lake house and these are the products I am using. I can send you pictures of the before and where I am at if you are interested. Just shoot me a PM with your email address.


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## ProjectDrift (Nov 9, 2010)

I agree with the backer board and rubber membrane, this is the way we are building new homes today. Any other way "can", not saying it will, allow mold to grow behind the tile. If the reveal of the tub/shower has enough room, you can get away with placing the backer board over the green rock, if not, your stuck removing it which is always fun!


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## orthofisher (Jul 5, 2006)

qapd,

What cementing agent would you recommend afixing the tiles to the Schluter Kerdi membrane? Mortar, mastic, construction adhesive or something else. Does this membrane weaken the bond at all? This stuff sounds real good, as you have mentioned, to prevent mold. Thanks for the posts.


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## qapd (Nov 10, 2004)

Kerdi (Schulter Systems) recommends you use thin set. I use the same thin set I use to set tile.

"An unmodified thinset mortar is recommended. When installing KERDI with unmodified thin-set mortar over particularly dry and porous substrates, it is recommended to wet the substrate first, in order to help prevent premature drying or skinning of the thin-set mortar. Unmodified thin-set mortar must be used to construct all KERDI seams to ensure watertight performance of the system".

I copied that description from the installation file. http://www.schluter.com/6846.aspx


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## easoutdoors (Jun 4, 2004)

*Tile surround*

Remove old tile and sheetrock.
Replace with hardi back in same thickness as sheetrock.
Install hardi with screws not nails. (nails loosen over time)
Seal all corners annd screw holes with epoxy. ( water proof seal)
Green or pink epoxy from master tile.
Normal thin set for putting tiles on.
Use an epoxy groute (latacrete) is best, also at master tile. 
( unsanded or sanded groute will crack and seperate over time, loosing the water proof seal, and looks bad)
Hope this helps!


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