# Cover Crops in summer



## Meadowlark (Jul 19, 2008)

Probably most gardeners think of cover crops as a winter time tool for soil protection and rebuilding....but in our climate arguably the most critical time for a cover crop is summer, after most of the spring crops are harvested and the garden is basically empty. 

This is the time when the temps soar and many gardeners just write it off until fall. However, this is also the time when weed seeds are most prevalent and also when soil is vulnerable to the conditions....bare soil isn't conducive to promoting healthy soil. 

Over the years, I've developed an approach to making those dog days of summer a time to re-vitalize and build healthy soils for the garden. It really isn't much work, surprisingly... just let the plants do the work. Rather than spend big bucks on bringing in organic matter, just let Nature provide it for you in the form of weed protection, nitrogen fixation, and soil building. 

The step by step approach is:

1) in late spring plant a few rows of cow peas (black eyes, purple hull, etc.). (see first attached picture)

2) harvest what you want from the crop to eat fresh, but leave many peas on the vine to mature.

3) till in the matured peas and allow them to germinate again and provide a second generation cover crop (see second attached picture with second generation cover crop now getting established)

4) again, harvest what you want and 

5) once again till it all back into the soil


Once you till the second generation crop back into your soil, its probably fall gardening time and you have added literally tons of tremendous organic matter to your soil along with nitrogen fixation and weed suppression. You are ready for fall garden..or alternatively for a cool season cover crop.

Nature abhors a vacuum and will fill it. The summer cover crop fills that void while building your soil. Works for me.


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## kyle2601 (Oct 23, 2008)

That's a good approach but right now is OKRA time!!! You can't jack with okra production ever in Texas. That is like a cardinal sin around my casa. I will plant a garden full of okra before and plant anything else and I also plant my other crops around my okra schedule. I am going to plant a fall pea patch and see how it does.


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## Meadowlark (Jul 19, 2008)

LOL...if you look carefully at picture #2, you will see a 1/2 row of okra in the background....more than enough to feed my family and all the neighbors for the entire summer. One full row of okra produces enough to feed my entire community....so, no thanks, we just don't need that much okra. 

I do need something, however, which builds the soil and keeps the weeds down during the summer without a lot of work....and that's the approach I developed and shared.


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## SwampRat (Jul 30, 2004)

When do you till in to produce the second crop?

Changing the subject, how do you keep the bugs off of lettuce?


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## Meadowlark (Jul 19, 2008)

SwampRat said:


> When do you till in to produce the second crop?
> 
> Changing the subject, how do you keep the bugs off of lettuce?


I shredded/tilled in the first crop about two weeks ago and all those seedlings shown in the second picture are the result of that. In another two weeks or so, the entire area will be green with peas.

Bugs on lettuce? Well mostly I will just water spray them off. When that doesn't work, I'll make a spray out of the crushed bugs, peppers, and some soap.....when that doesn't work, I go to HEB for lettuce.


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## Meadowlark (Jul 19, 2008)

*Update*

Here's that same plot now...covered with Nitrogen fixing, soil improving, weed inhibiting cover.

Haven't done a thing to it since planting, nothing. This will be where next season's potatoes, onions, and later corn and beans will grow.


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## Buckerup (Feb 19, 2009)

Meadowlark, that's awesome! Thanks for sharing.


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## Law Dog (Jul 27, 2010)

Nice, thanks for sharing!


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## Meadowlark (Jul 19, 2008)

*The spring cycle*

Now is the time to till in those winter cover crops in preparation for spring planting. In spite of a harsh winter with temps down to 20 deg. the clover made it fine.

Now it will enrich the soil and promote and insect and weed free spring garden.


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## monkeyman1 (Dec 30, 2007)

Tilled mine up last Saturday...right before an afternoon monsoon!


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## shoalnuff (Dec 18, 2013)

Meadowlark said:


> Now is the time to till in those winter cover crops in preparation for spring planting. In spite of a harsh winter with temps down to 20 deg. the clover made it fine.
> 
> Now it will enrich the soil and promote and insect and weed free spring garden.


How many times do you till before you plant, and do you ad anything to the soil just before planting or tilling? I had a garden spot here that I haven't used in years due to travel for work. I just tiled it Friday just before the big flood! it was full of grass. I ran over it twice and will let it stand and till it again before I plant "trying to let the grass die off". I was just wondering if I should add anything before I till it the last time? Thanks.:help:


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## Meadowlark (Jul 19, 2008)

If you are going in where grass was previously, I would recommend you till it several times over a period of a few days. Hit it good with the tiller for a pass or two, wait a day or so for the exposed grass roots to dry, then hit it again for more passes....and repeat as many times as necessary to kill out all the old grass roots. I'm sorry, I know this is more work now but it will pay off for you later. One Bermuda grass root left alive will slowly try to take back over its ground and you will be fighting it all season. 

As far as additives, you can't go wrong with compost. I also like cow and/or sheep manure tilled in before planting but you can get too much of a good thing so go lightly at first. 

A soil test is needed to say specifically what other adjustments might be needed, if any, such as ph adjustments....but if you are in East Texas, which is just about anywhere east of Houston, the soils tend to be acidic and benefit from the addition of agricultural lime. 

As far as fertilizers, I would wait until your plants are in and growing before adding any...and then only in small amounts spread out over time. 

Good gardening to you...and let us know how it goes (if you survive the tilling LOL).


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## shoalnuff (Dec 18, 2013)

Meadowlark said:


> If you are going in where grass was previously, I would recommend you till it several times over a period of a few days. Hit it good with the tiller for a pass or two, wait a day or so for the exposed grass roots to dry, then hit it again for more passes....and repeat as many times as necessary to kill out all the old grass roots. I'm sorry, I know this is more work now but it will pay off for you later. One Bermuda grass root left alive will slowly try to take back over its ground and you will be fighting it all season.
> 
> As far as additives, you can't go wrong with compost. I also like cow and/or sheep manure tilled in before planting but you can get too much of a good thing so go lightly at first.
> 
> ...


I here ya on the tilling but I just bought me a new Cub Cadet rear tine dual rotation ......... haha anyway, it's nice and it's like getting a new toy so right now I don't mind it to much. I have tilled it twice so far and plan to till several more times until around Easter is my plan. I just hate to wait that long to put something in the ground:-/ I know it won't be that bad next year but I'm getting anxious to watch something grow! Thanks for the help, oh, and nice job on the chicken pen!


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## chuck leaman (Jul 15, 2004)

My chickens would go nuts in that cover crop of clover. I used purple hull peas last Summer as a cover crop. My Fall garden was awesome so it works.


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## B-1 83 (Sep 22, 2009)

Cover crops are a great idea to provide organic matter, natural N, soil protection, and biological activity. USE A VARIETY of species. I agree with what's been said ..... except for the tillage part. When plant matter is tilled in, it creates an environment for the soil bacteria to explode. When this happens, much of the desired carbon is given off as CO2 and is not stored. On top of that, tillage *encourages* weed growth/germination. The ideal situation is to leave it it all on top and let nature recycle it. Your tillage destroys the natural fungi which are one of the keys to good soil structure. Spray it with Roundup and let it sit. If you want an organic method, use vinegar and orange oil or mow close. There is very little reason to ever till a garden beyond what it takes to transplant a seedling or to cut a slot for seed.


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## Rubberback (Sep 9, 2008)

Don't till the garden & put RU on it. I'll pass. What is it with RU? Does every body use this? I've never used it. I just do it the old fashioned way & pull stuff out of my gardens with my hands. Then add & till. Am I doing something wrong? 
This year I'm using black plastic on a lot of my rows depending on what I'm planting.


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## chumy (Jul 13, 2012)

B-1 83 said:


> Cover crops are a great idea to provide organic matter, natural N, soil protection, and biological activity. USE A VARIETY of species. I agree with what's been said ..... except for the tillage part. When plant matter is tilled in, it creates an environment for the soil bacteria to explode. When this happens, much of the desired carbon is given off as CO2 and is not stored. On top of that, tillage *encourages* weed growth/germination. The ideal situation is to leave it it all on top and let nature recycle it. Your tillage destroys the natural fungi which are one of the keys to good soil structure. Spray it with Roundup and let it sit. If you want an organic method, use vinegar and orange oil or mow close. There is very little reason to ever till a garden beyond what it takes to transplant a seedling or to cut a slot for seed.


If i never had walk on my garden, i probably would never till. Compacted soil is not benefical for root growth.


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## B-1 83 (Sep 22, 2009)

chumy said:


> If i never had walk on my garden, i probably would never till. Compacted soil is not benefical for root growth.


It compacts worse when you till. Your best defense is the leftover roots, earthworm channels, and mulch on the surface. Why do you think they plow the heck out new roadbeds early in construction? They are destroying all the natural structure, enabling to be compacted.


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## chumy (Jul 13, 2012)

B-1 83 said:


> It compacts worse when you till. Your best defense is the leftover roots, earthworm channels, and mulch on the surface. Why do you think they plow the heck out new roadbeds early in construction? They are destroying all the natural structure, enabling to be compacted.


yes, They plow roadbeds to mix in lime to stablize the soil.

I don't have 18 wheelers rolling over my garden.

I can't walk on my garden after i till, i'll sink in about 6". It's a dirt fluffer, not a compactor.


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## B-1 83 (Sep 22, 2009)

Initially, it fluffs, then it allows things to compact. I'm not going to get into a ******* contest on a message board, you just have to trust my 35 years of consulting, agronomy degree (soil science minor), and millions of acres of no-till farming in the U.S., to the degree that I know what I'm talking about.

Do what you know to work, just understand there is a better way. I've been doing it for years in my own garden.


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## B-1 83 (Sep 22, 2009)

I'll just leave this here....

http://eartheasy.com/blog/2009/01/no-till-gardening/


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## chumy (Jul 13, 2012)

B-1 83 said:


> Initially, it fluffs, then it allows things to compact. I'm not going to get into a ******* contest on a message board, you just have to trust my 35 years of consulting, agronomy degree (soil science minor), and millions of acres of no-till farming in the U.S., to the degree that I know what I'm talking about.
> 
> Do what you know to work, just understand there is a better way. I've been doing it for years in my own garden.


Are these no-till farmers just growing wheat or all spectrums of produce?

I'll trust your expertice, but i'll have to continue to till. Maybe my soil structure needs to be looked at.


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## Meadowlark (Jul 19, 2008)

B-1 83 said:


> ...Do what you know to work, just understand there is a better way. I've been doing it for years in my own garden.


 No, not for me.

I would put my garden soil up against any in the Country. If it produced any better, I'd be throwing stuff away LOL.

I enjoy tilling the soils. I enjoy working in the garden almost as much as eating the produce.

I'll do what works for me.


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## Meadowlark (Jul 19, 2008)

B-1 83 said:


> I'll just leave this here....
> 
> ...


I noted with some interest that the first step in the no-till approach you referenced is that "The soil should be â€˜double-dugâ€™ at least the depth of two shovel blades"

That sounds a lot like tilling. LOL

Further the reference stated regarding cover crops " Crops such as crimson clover, oats, rye and hairy vetch are referred to as â€˜green manuresâ€™ because of the fertility they add to the soil." 

Its a little difficult to add "green manures" when one follows your other recommendation on cover crops: 




B-1 83 said:


> .... Spray it with Roundup and let it sit. ...



No, you lost me on that one. I had an 18 inch to 24 inch stand of crimson clover, white clover, and winter rape...and you recommend spray it with Round-up and let it sit. LOL

Nope, I agree with the green manure recommendation in the article and also agree with "two shovel blades" e.g. disking in the cover. I'll just leave it at that.


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## B-1 83 (Sep 22, 2009)

Meadowlark said:


> I noted with some interest that the first step in the no-till approach you referenced is that "The soil should be â€˜double-dugâ€™ at least the depth of two shovel blades"
> 
> That sounds a lot like tilling. LOL
> 
> ...


The term "green manure" is about as outdated as "Edsel". Much of the organic matter you are hoping to create gets turned to CO2 with tillage and the resulting heavy bacterial action. A good earthworm population will turn the upper 8 inches of your soil over every 4 years and leave the channels for water penetration. In a healthy soil your earthworms and microbes do your tilling for you. Clover, other legumes, and rape are excellent examples of plants with good C:N ratios that will dicompose very quickly when terminated. If not, we'd be over our heads in dead plant material. If the standing aspect is a problem, just mow 'em down or take the weed eater to them. Their root channels and dead root system when left in tact will create better water penetration than any tillage could hope for. Why fight a system that has been in place for thousands of years?


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## Meadowlark (Jul 19, 2008)

B-1 83 said:


> The term "green manure" is about as outdated as "Edsel". ...


 The term appears in your referenced article, your recommendation...as was the tilling recommendation. Both are far more viable than using Roundup.

You recommend killing a 2 ft high rich cover with Roundup and no tilling....LOL. I like the referenced article much better...till it in as green manure.


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## Rubberback (Sep 9, 2008)

I too till my garden. I add poop then till it in. I'm learning howto use my little mantis to build rows. Like I said this year I'm gonna use a lot of black plastic.


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## B-1 83 (Sep 22, 2009)

If you read the article he said he only tilled it the first year, and he did not till in the green manure crop. He talked about solarizing it and leaving it, or hand pulling it and leaving it on top. You sound like many of my clients before they saw the light - excuses as to why it won't work, rather than looking at it from an agronomic perspective. Enough of the ******* contest.hwell:


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## chumy (Jul 13, 2012)

This thread got me thinking of establishing fire ants in my garden. Those guys are great earth movers, and pretty fast at it. They can suck the nectar out of my okra blooms all they want to survive, as long as they don't bother anything else. 

Tiller for sale, cheap


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