# finish for wood pens



## bgtymrs (Nov 18, 2009)

I am new to pen turning somewhat i have turned about 10 pens but not liking the finish that is coming out. i am using ca glue thick and i seem to be having trouble with the finish to be honest i dont like the way it turns out, so my question is what ca glue should i be using and what is the best method to apply it with


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## PenMakerWillie (Nov 5, 2008)

Do a couple youtube searches and watch the videos on applying CA. It watched several videos on different things before I started them so I could get a visual idea. 

Everyone's going to have a different answer, you just have to find the one that works for you. When I finish a wood with CA I do the following:
1. Sand to 600
2. Two coats of thin
3. 3-? coats of medium CA (until the divets go away)
4. MM to 12K grit. 
5. Apply plastic polish to get a really good shine. 

Like I said, everyone's will be different, you just have to find the one that works for you. Hope that helps. Check your PM's too.


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## Fishin Tails (Mar 21, 2007)

Pretty good! I turned a Polaris this morning before work and used a Water Buffalo Horn as the Blank. For fear of future cracking and just wear I CA finished it. When I got through applying the finish I was up to 23 coats of CA. This was medium CA.

CA is the only finish I like to use. Keep up the good work.


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## Tortuga (May 21, 2004)

for wood pens I'm still using what I started with...dry sand to 600...good dose of EEE Cream...then Behlens Wood Finish.. On really loose grained woods like palm or something similar, I will give it about 4 coats of thick CA to tighten it up and fill in the gaps...also on heavily spalted wood...then smooth out the CA with wet sanding to 12,000...then polish...

Use the CA on ALL antler pens....


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## bill (May 21, 2004)

CA is a great finish but not the only one. I use thin then move to the medium (the number of coats will depend on how much you leave before covering the bushings and the pen not fitting correct...I like around 8 as a general rule). If you use thick, you might need to add the BLO. Most people use the CA finish because it's quick and very durable.

I have used tung oil, lacquer and Bobby's super shine. Most suppliers carry a crystal coating of some type, I have not used them.

No matter the type of finish you go with, getting them sealed first then buffed is important final step.

Once you get the CA finish, and it takes a while sometimes, then it will be your go to finish. Keep at it, and one time the Ah Ha moment will happen, then you will be set.


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## bgtymrs (Nov 18, 2009)

thanks for the info guys i appreciate it


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## 3192 (Dec 30, 2004)

*HUT* wax works well too. Fast, easy or leaves a good finish. 
http://www.hutproducts.com/products.asp?dept=54


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## Viking48 (Jan 24, 2006)

Sorry to hijack but how long do you let the CA dry between coats? Did a few today and some worked great but a couple seemed to gum up and not harden. I used accelerator and in both cases the other half worked just fine. Any thoughts on what I did wrong?


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## Slip (Jul 25, 2006)

I am no pen expert but made a bunch at one point a several years ago. I used thin CA to allow the glue to soak into the wood as a stabilized pen and built up with a few medium coats for the final finish. I applied while spinning as slow speed and let spin for several minutes and then lightly sprayed with accelerator to cure out. Slow with accelerator or finish will bubble and ruin pen.


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## bill (May 21, 2004)

slip knot said:


> I am no pen expert but made a bunch at one point a several years ago. I used thin CA to allow the glue to soak into the wood as a stabilized pen and built up with a few medium coats for the final finish. I applied while spinning as slow speed and let spin for several minutes and then lightly sprayed with accelerator to cure out. Slow with accelerator or finish will bubble and ruin pen.


That's it right there, also the cool temps effect the drying time. I had 2 this past week after finished and assembled go to a ghost effect. I used BLO on them and I'm positive I used just a little too much. I have moved away from the accelerator, I found it dries the top but not the middle as well as the mixing of BLO. This becomes a problem over many coats.


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## Tortuga (May 21, 2004)

Dunno if I am doing it COMPLETELY wrong...but I just been skipping the BLO altogether and just slow applying the CA...shot of ACC...and repeat 3 or 4 times..then go to the wet sanding and finish with One Step... works for me so far...

GB..I plumb forgot about the Hut Bars.. I started with them and they give a great final finish on wood pens.. Got 4 bars of it around here somewhere and think I will drag them out and give them another workout...


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## Viking48 (Jan 24, 2006)

Guess I was doing it backwards - applied the CA then hit it with the accelerator then let it spin for a few minutes. It was cool in the shop yesterday so that may have affected it. I did like the ones that turned out OK.


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## Slip (Jul 25, 2006)

Thats what I did Viking. I applied the CA while slowly spinning and after several minutes, I put a bit of accelerator lightly and left spinning till fully dry. Sanded a bit and built up until I thought I had enough (just a few coats of medium) but first the thin stuff to soak in the wood as deep as I could to make the wood stabilized.


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## Viking48 (Jan 24, 2006)

bill said:


> That's it right there, also the cool temps effect the drying time. I had 2 this past week after finished and assembled go to a ghost effect. I used BLO on them and I'm positive I used just a little too much. I have moved away from the accelerator, I found it dries the top but not the middle as well as the mixing of BLO. This becomes a problem over many coats.


Bill, If you don't use the accelerator how long do you let it dry? Any specific time or just until it feels dry? Thanks.

Another question - does anyone have a special way to store CA? When I sold Loctite we had to keep it in the refrigerator but don't know if that is still necessary or not.


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## bill (May 21, 2004)

Viking48 said:


> Bill, If you don't use the accelerator how long do you let it dry? Any specific time or just until it feels dry? Thanks.
> 
> Another question - does anyone have a special way to store CA? When I sold Loctite we had to keep it in the refrigerator but don't know if that is still necessary or not.


kinda depends, if I use the BLO, it's dry just as fast as using accelerator....it's what the blo does beyond bringing out the wood grain

I keep my bottles of CA (2oz) on my desk. No problems. If I had multi-bottles or big bulk, then keeping in the freezer is what I hear most do, then just transfer what they want to use into the other bottles.

I don't even put the cap on the CA bottle when I apply the layers. It has never stopped up or got a film. I used to rush to get the cap on. I don't worry about it now and focus on the application of the finish.

I use a old bottle of mustard to keep my BLO inside. Put just a small drop on a paper towel and put on the blank with the lathe running. Then on the same spot the BLO was on, I add a couple drops of CA and put that on the blank with the lathe running. The medium don't soak through the paper towel and I just keep moving across the blank to get a even layer. It gets warm but so far no burns LOL I also don't get that flash of smoke. Fold the towel over and keep going adding layers. The trick for me is to use very little BLO, as too much will give that ghost effect and that's not good. If I think the layers are getting thick, then I leave it on the lathe and take a break. Come back in 10 minutes and see if anything shows up. The CA should be set if there was any question.

Now I have been known to let a nice pen set over night before finishing. I do this as well on any epoxy. If I see a grain pattern, or colors or anything that makes the pen special, I shift into slow speed so I don't rush and screw it up LOL


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## Robert A. (Jan 8, 2009)

The problem I had was buying a big bottle of CA. Buy the time i used half of the bottle it began taking longer and longer to cure. I am now using 2 oz bottles of Jet CA, I got my last bottles at hobby lobby and it works better for me becuase i will use it and get a fresh batch before it goes bad. I just started using the Thin CA for sealing my calls and Pens then go to a medium for a thicker application.. 

I used to try the BLO / CA method but i think i was using to much BLO because my results were in consistent, i would have thin spots in my finish.. Just my experience but i am a newbie so guys if i am doing something wrong let me know too.. :work:


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## bill (May 21, 2004)

I buy my CA here http://woodenwonderstx.com/WWBlue/NewGlueWS.html

always fresh, great service and a pen turner so he knows the business

and best prices


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