# window unit to cool a walkin cooler



## Reel Aggies (Nov 30, 2007)

has anyone done this? I just aquired a 6x8 walkin cooler without functioning compressor. I have heard of folks using 12,000 btu window units that are modified to cool them. I read about using a CoolBot to modify the ac, but have no first hand knowledge. We will really only use it during hunting season so i don't want to drop $2k or so. any firstahnd advice? want to keep temps between 35-40.


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## RedFly (Mar 22, 2010)

My father-in-law rigged up a cooler with a window unit, and I helped a little. The best we can get out of it is about 51 degrees... it knocks out the humidity and does good enough for about two days or so. The main problem we found is that the lowest setting on a window unit is usually 55 degrees. We tried modifying the thermomter by putting it in the outside air, but you can run the unit into the ground doing that. By mounting it up high in the warmest spot we could (about 6.5 feet off the floor) and on the lowest setting of 55 degrees, we got the best results. It's not a 35 degree cooler but it keeps the bugs out of the meat and the humidity real low so you can properly dry age it for at least two days. It keeps us from ruining a weekend when you get a shot at an Axis or tasty hog when it's warm out.


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## DUKFVR (Aug 19, 2004)

I don't know how to do it ,but there is a way to rewire something or change something out in an AC that will keep it cold in a WI cooler. Keeps the compressor from freezing up or something like that so you can run it cold all the time. They have one set up like that on our lease. Someone on here will probably know what to do to make it work.


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## Reel Aggies (Nov 30, 2007)

The coolbot is supposed to trick the ac into dropping low. I just wanted some firsthand info, as everyhing I read is "yeah so-and-sos brother in law has that setup and it works great". Just hoping for some first hand experiences.


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## Mont (Nov 17, 1998)

the coldest an a/c can cool is 18 degrees above freezing or 50 degrees. At temps lower than that, the coil will freeze. That's why coolers, refrigerators and freezers have a defrost element, defrost timer and terminator. They know they are going to freeze up at lower temps and make provisions to defrost it.


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## daddyeaux (Nov 18, 2007)

Correct to all the above. Any ac unit is only designed to produce 55 degree air, so if you get it to 55 or 50 you are lucky. I'm certified in residential ac, coolers and freezer units are a whole different monster.


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## Haute Pursuit (Jun 26, 2006)

Couldn't you use a couple of big chest freezer motors tied to a thermostat?


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## Reel Aggies (Nov 30, 2007)

What are you hvac guys thoughts on www.storeitcold.com?


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## Mont (Nov 17, 1998)

What they are doing is massively over sizing the unit as compared to the space and then running the compressor until just before it freezes up. It then turns the compressor off just enough to get the ice gone and starts over. Notice how they say you can't open the doors much. There's a good reason for that. Once you remove all the humidity from the closed space, it gets much harder for ice to form on the coils. Ice is just water vapor freezing up on the coils. Notice also you need 4 inches of styrofoam insulation, all around. Again, this is so you have a nearly completely sealed space and can get the water out of the air. It might work under the conditions they specify and especially well inland, say 200 miles from the coast. But open the door, or try and use it around the coast and it's going to fail. The other issue is the compressor is going to have a very short life. An a/c has a "high temperature" compressor, and all coolers use either low temp or medium temp. It all has to do with the motor size in the compressor vs. the size of the compressor pump itself. Sure, you can force it to work, but what you give up is a lot more power useage and a lot shorter compressor life. Again, if you notice, they specifically say don't expect good performance with hot product in there. That's why you use the proper compressor for coolers and a different one for a/c's.


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## blackhogdog (Jul 20, 2009)

Whats wrong with your walk in cooler unit, I bet you would never regret buying a good used unit or even a new drop on top unit and get it going again, they sell replacement units to rebuild old ones, is your walkin missing a lot of parts or torn up or what??? I would get it fixed up by doing it myself with help from 2 coolers.


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## Reel Aggies (Nov 30, 2007)

Do you know of any cheap cooler units or where to look? Most I had seen are $2000+ for used components. I have a 12000 btu free unit, the box is 6x8 standard 4+ inch insulation with heavy door. The lease is also in bandera. I may give it a try. I guess the worst I would be out is $300 and have to re install the section I cut out. I have the inside unit installed in cooler still, just don't know if it's viable and don have the outside portion to mate to it (and no hvac peeps close . I would like to rig it the correct way, but there is no way I can drop thousands on a cooler just used 3-4 months out of the year. If I do it I will report back.


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## Reel Aggies (Nov 30, 2007)

blackhogdog said:


> Whats wrong with your walk in cooler unit, I bet you would never regret buying a good used unit or even a new drop on top unit and get it going again, they sell replacement units to rebuild old ones, is your walkin missing a lot of parts or torn up or what??? I would get it fixed up by doing it myself with help from 2 coolers.


The inside part wih fan and coils is there, just rooftop part was removed. I justdont know if the inside part is still viable. It looks to be in good shape, no corrosion or anything, just wiring looks in rough shape.


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## Reel Aggies (Nov 30, 2007)

*cooler*

I am all for as much help as I can get, and would like to do it the right way. I just cannot pay someone $2000-$4000 to do it. This is what I am working with.....If I knew the inside unit was OK, and could find a reasonably priced roof unit, I would def go that way... What say you all.....


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## Blue.dog (May 8, 2005)

*Walk-in-Cooler*

I was interested in this several years ago and found the answer on TexasBowhunter.com
I looked for it just now and cannot find it.

So, here is what was written in the post. I saved it because hopefully, I will build one someday.

A BIG Disclaimer here: No guarantee to work, I am just repeating what was in the thread.

There were three responses: I scaned them and uploaded to this thread.

Hopefully, there will be some EE's or A/C folks on 2cool that can verify what this guy has said.

Here is the Thread info on texas bowhunter.com
http://discussions.texasbowhunter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48164

The Thread topic was: 
Walk-in-Cooler - Texas Bowhunter.com Community Discussion Forums

Good Luck,
B.D


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## Blue.dog (May 8, 2005)

*walk-in-cooler*

looks like i went to a lot of trouble for nothing.

I must have typed the link incorrectly when searching for it the first time.

Just click on the link in the previous post and it will take you to the complete Post on TexasBowhunter.com

B.D


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## Reel Aggies (Nov 30, 2007)

Blue.dog said:


> looks like i went to a lot of trouble for nothing.
> 
> I must have typed the link incorrectly when searching for it the first time.
> 
> ...


Thank you BD. That sounds like the basic design of the Cool Bot, just a whole lot cheaper.


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## Too Tall (May 21, 2004)

Go to Subway or somewhere close to you that has coolers and ask them who works on their coolers. Have those people look at the unit, see what it needs and how much it will cost. Replace it or go with the A/C after that.


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## monkeyman1 (Dec 30, 2007)

if all else fails, it'll make a great smokehouse.


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## Reel Aggies (Nov 30, 2007)

monkeyman1 said:


> if all else fails, it'll make a great smokehouse.


Funny you should say that, we were thinking about ways to make it pull double duty.


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## daddyeaux (Nov 18, 2007)

I don't agree with this at all. No a/c unit window or home is designed to take temperatures down to 32 degrees. Besides the unit would have to take the evaporator coil below 32 degrees to reach that goal. A/C units do not operate at the low pressures or use the type of freon to reach those temps. If you get a home or window a/c to 40 degrees the coils are going to freeze up......


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## 11andy11 (Aug 12, 2004)

sure would suck to have to cut a whole is that thing too.


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## FishinFoolFaron (Feb 11, 2009)

It appears that your evaporator coil is a 4700 btu low temp (freezer) with electric defrost. It can be used as a cooler evaporator coil by changing the thermostatic expansion valve. The electric defrost will not be needed.

I will do a little parts hunting and get a price for you. Going to need a 1/2 hp medium temp condensing unit.

What type of power do you have available?


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## Reel Aggies (Nov 30, 2007)

We will prob wire directly into the breaker box so I assume we have
220v? I am definitely no electrician, but we have one on the lease. Thank you FFF, I look forward to hearing back. I am on a limited budget but will do my best.


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## Profish00 (May 21, 2004)

Ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/Tecumseh-Compre...al_Refrigerators_Freezers&hash=item3a5ae28513


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## FishinFoolFaron (Feb 11, 2009)

Profish00, that unit is too big and wrong power (3 phase). Thank for looking, tho.
Reel Aggies will need a 1/2 ton (1/2 hp, 6000 btu) med temp.
If someone knows of a 2 or 3 door glass door cooler that has a good condensing unit, it will work.


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## Captn C (May 21, 2004)

Even though the top/outside section is pretty much trashed, you can still have it if you think it would help save you on your cost. It was sitting right there beside the cooler when you picked it up...I'll be sure it doesn't get taken to the scrap yard this weekend just incase you think you need it. If it will help I'll get a pic or two of it.


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