# Reloading work bench surface help



## callsignsleepy (Apr 3, 2007)

Ok, so I pretty much have my bench worked out with 4x4 on the corners, and 2x4s going all around, and a few going from left to right to support the middle of the working surface. But that is what I need help with. What are yall using for a surface? I thought about using 3/4 plywood with laminate top, or MDF with hardboard top. Also, how much over hang should I leave? 

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## dwilliams35 (Oct 8, 2006)

Oak 2x8's, planed down and polyurethaned..


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## callsignsleepy (Apr 3, 2007)

dwilliams35 said:


> Oak 2x8's, planed down and polyurethaned..


I like the sound of that.

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## jtburf (May 26, 2004)

Best bang for your buck..

From Sams


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## callsignsleepy (Apr 3, 2007)

How much is that

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## brotherDave (Dec 17, 2004)

http://www.samsclub.com/sams/ultra-heavy-duty-12-drawer-rolling-workbench/prod1480010.ip?navAction=


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## callsignsleepy (Apr 3, 2007)

Hmm, I like the idea of bldg my own and getting a tool chest I really like. 

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## mas360 (Nov 21, 2006)

I use 2x12 boards and biscuits to join them together for bench top. I then lay 1/4" hardboard, the same kind peg boards are made of but without the holes, on top. I use liquid nail to attach it to the 2x12. This is cheap and replaceable down the road. So far it has been 20 years and the original hardboard is still good. 

If you are going to mount O-frame press, you need the overhang. If you don't like overhang, you can build a separate mount for your press and bolt the mount to the bench top. If I am to build a new reloading bench I definitely will go with the separate mount option.

Using 2x8 oak as someone recommended above definitely is going to produce a gorgeous bench....but the price for oak boards is likely three times as much as plain jane 2x12.


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## callsignsleepy (Apr 3, 2007)

I ordered a strong Mount for the dillon 550b. So no over hang is needed, but wasn't sure if people liked having it to have it on the bench

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## dwilliams35 (Oct 8, 2006)

mas360 said:


> Using 2x8 oak as someone recommended above definitely is going to produce a gorgeous bench....but the price for oak boards is likely three times as much as plain jane 2x12.


 If you get finished oak boards, you're right.. I get rough oak, used in crating and such: there's a few places in town that carry it. It comes in a REAL 2" x (insert dimension here), not the reduced trade sizes, and I just run it through my planer: you end up with that gorgeous oak you mention, and it's not all that expensive. I've got two workbenches like that, one was free from some crating, and one I did buy the wood: I think it was maybe $70-80 for a 30" x 10' bench... There is some care you have to put into it, as it's not always kiln dried like standard lumber: you may have to check moisture, and there may be some dimensional shrinkage if it's too wet.. I just put it in my barn for a few months until it dried down before I used it. The crating on the other bench was dry to begin with, and I just planed it and slapped it on there.. A little extra work, but once you see and use the finished product, it's worth every second of it: hard as a rock, stable and great looking too..


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## jm423 (Sep 18, 2011)

For better or worse. I am about to build another bench-present one no longer suits me--too small, not right dimension for where I have it now. I am going to sandwich 3/4" particle board (or possibly CDX) between 2 layers of 3/4 plywood, pine unless I find a "dinged" sheet of some hardwood. Multip[le coats of floor grade Poly for a finish. Thought about formica or some other mat'l that type, concerned it might have static electricity tendencies. Cabinets with drawers as end supports, with the drawers on roller tracks. Appreciate any thoughts on this design (Would much prefer heavy lumber, but anything other than half-cured pine not available or cost prohiobitive my area.)


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## justindfish (Aug 12, 2005)

I definitely would leave a few inches overhang it can be handy on a work bench sometimes. When I built my rod building reel cleaning bench I used a sheet of AC grade plywood I left it bare and have been happy with that AC has a cabinet grade finish. 

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## fishnvet (Mar 6, 2005)

Make sure you're happy with the height of the press including the strong mount before you build a bench. I think Dillon recommends 41" bench with strong mount but that is for standing, I believe. I prefer to sit so I made some temporary bench heights til I got one that was a comfortable height that I could also get my knees under the bench with a rolling chair. Standing or sitting, you want to be happy with the height before you cut wood.


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## Bird (May 10, 2005)

I just got 2 of those Seville classic work benches from Sam's (not the one on casters) and they are great. The top is 1.75" of maple, laminated like a butcher block. The front overhangs about 4" so it will be perfect to mount the reloading press on one side and a vise on the other end. The work bench was $190, a lot of assembly required but only takes 20-30 min or so. The feet are threaded so you can level and adjust the height. Mine is set at 40".


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## callsignsleepy (Apr 3, 2007)

i'm probably going to go with sanded plywood with hardboard on top, and the bench height will be 40". I like that height because if i want to work and stand I still can, and if i want to sit on a taller stool I can. I'm only 5'6", but it works for me!


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## prarie dog (Feb 28, 2011)

I bought a scrap countertop that has a molded backsplash on it. It is about 10 feet long but had a chunk cut off of one end. Was in the cheap scrap bin at a Home depot, 2X6 frame and 4X4 legs, been working good for about 15 years now.


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## callsignsleepy (Apr 3, 2007)

I think that might be another great idea, thanks. 

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## SeaTex (Aug 27, 2009)

It's not pretty...but serves my purposes. These were taken two years ago when I strted setting everything up.

4x4 legs, 2x6 belted with 3/4" top.


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## THE JAMMER (Aug 1, 2005)

I know it's expensive, but I got the Kencraft bench made specifically for reloading, and have never looked back. Like so many things in reloading, they are expensive up front, but once you get them, you wonder how you ever did it without: rcbs case prep station, rcbs motorized case trimmer; powder box; rcbs chargemaster combo (scale/dispenser); funnel with caliber specific spouts; turret press; precision seating dies; etc.

Seatex- nice looking "home brew" there.


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## Trouthunter (Dec 18, 1998)

> Oak 2x8's, planed down and polyurethaned..


That's what mine is made of. Also don't forget a raised back...I used 4x4's front and back, 3 feet taller on the back and peg board is the backing.

TH


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## coogerpop (Sep 3, 2009)

I built mine with 4 x 4 legs,and used a double thickness of3/4 in exterior plywood for the top...fastened it together with liquid nails and then dry wall screws in a criss cross pattern...I fitted a 3/4 in plywood shelf about 1/3 of the way down to the floor...really a solid bench.All fasteners used were screws ,no nails....


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## Pocketfisherman (May 30, 2005)

Double layer of 3/4" plywood glued and screwed together. Top it with a piece of Masonite hardboard with the shiny side up. Consider the Masonite a disposable protecter and replace it every 5-10 years as needed, though mine is at 12 years and still looks good.


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## callsignsleepy (Apr 3, 2007)

Hmm, totally forgot to leave a lip on the top. Fail. Oh well. Still thinking about putting the hardboard on top with either glue or screws. And also adding pegboard on the back with a shelf on top. 





































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## mas360 (Nov 21, 2006)

Looking very nice.


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## callsignsleepy (Apr 3, 2007)

Thanks, hoping to have time to finish it up this weekend

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## mas360 (Nov 21, 2006)

Are you going to put drawers under the bench top?
Don't forget to put in electrical outlets.


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## callsignsleepy (Apr 3, 2007)

Yea, I wanna put a couple drawers for any special reloading tools. 

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## callsignsleepy (Apr 3, 2007)

I'm also going to tap into the existing power thats in the attic above and run a 3 foot industrial power strip along the left vertical post, and also a light that will hang from the shelf that i need to put in on top.


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## mas360 (Nov 21, 2006)

Awesome, now all you need is an a/c for summer reloading.....:doowapsta


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## callsignsleepy (Apr 3, 2007)

yea, i thought about insulating the garage door, and adding a couple AC vents to the garage, but not sure how it'll handle it. Or i can buy a standalone AC unit that you can put just about anywhere without needing a window. but it's like $400....


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## dwilliams35 (Oct 8, 2006)

adding AC vents is a bad idea: it really jacks with the balance on your AC unit, will end up causing real problems unless you really jump through hoops with insulation and the duct installation..


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## mas360 (Nov 21, 2006)

This is just a crazy idea in my mind I want to throw out and see what you guys think. 

Get a large tent, which you hang off the ceiling. When you use it, you drop the tent down over the reloading area. With a hole cut in the tent wall, you insert a small window a/c, which sells at Walmart/Home Depot for $100. Run that thing while you are reloading and put it away when you are done. 
The window unit is much more efficient than the standalone unit you are thinking about. Before I purchased a travel trailer, we used to camp in a tent. I did same thing with the tent (seven-man tent) and it was quite comfortable with a window unit. I did try with the standalone unit in the same tent and it was not enough cool air during the day even though the standalone unit had same BTU rating as the window unit. 

Insulating the garage door is not enough. If you want to convert the entire garage into air conditioned work space you'd have to put in an insulated wall behind the garage door. In this option you'd have to install a window unit as well. Ducting the current a/c system into the garage is going to upset the balance of the house a/c as I am sure your home builder installed the minimum system capacity barely enough to cool the house.


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