# Need thoughts on a bow



## fishenhard (Sep 13, 2006)

I would like to get in to bow hunting. Looks like a lot of fun and skill. I have a lot of frinds and family that bow hunt. I was looking at used bows the other day. I found a reflex bighorn. I did a little research found out it is made by Hoyt. I wont to know do any of yall own one or have owned one and if it is a good starter bow. The price is $150 all the bells and whistles. It has a case and sevral arrows also. Thanks in advance for your help.


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## TXPalerider (May 21, 2004)

The price sounds fine. But, can you post a link to some info about it. Really, if it is not parallel limb technology (which I'm sure it's not) I would pass.

Just my opinion.


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## fishenhard (Sep 13, 2006)

I found it at a pawn shop. From looking online it looks like a 2000 maybe 2001. I going to the pawn shop today and get the info. I will post up sometime today


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## devil1824 (Sep 4, 2010)

I know that doesn't sound that old but archery technology has changed a LOT since then. I would pass and try to find something maybe 2 years old. Martin has a new bow at Academy for around $350. Its a good starter bow. Check out Mission Archery also.


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## raiderfish (May 26, 2005)

I recently bought a bow from West Houston Archery and now I'm glad I spent the extra money to get a new bow. Yeah its a bit more, but to have a bow tuned/sized exactly for you will make the experience much better (DRAW LENGTH being the biggest thing followed by poundage) . Buying this used bow that probably doesnt fit you will frustrate & discourage you.

Oh yeah, dont fall into the trap that you need to pull 70# to be macho. The guy at the bow shop told me that a 50-60# bow is powerful enough for any hunting in N.America.


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## rjackh (Mar 16, 2011)

check out texasbowhunter.com. i got a hoyt turbohawk last year as my first bow and love it. be careful, bow hunting is addicting.


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## Clint Leopold (Mar 7, 2006)

raiderfish said:


> I recently bought a bow from West Houston Archery and now I'm glad I spent the extra money to get a new bow. Yeah its a bit more, but to have a bow tuned/sized exactly for you will make the experience much better (DRAW LENGTH being the biggest thing followed by poundage) . Buying this used bow that probably doesnt fit you will frustrate & discourage you.
> 
> Oh yeah, dont fall into the trap that you need to pull 70# to be macho. The guy at the bow shop told me that a 50-60# bow is powerful enough for any hunting in N.America.


Very true! If that's all you got then go for it. But, if you can gather a few more dollars get something that fits you and not just your wallet. Starting off bowhunting with a bow thats not comfortable and the right specs for you will be a real turnoff, and you may loose interest. There are several new bows on the market now that are in the $300 range and are good starter bows. And like said before, there is tons of new technology out now and people like keeping up with the times so there shouldn't be a shortage of good used bows out there that would be great for you. Do a little research on what works best for you and go in that direction. Even if it means going to several archery shops and trying the new ones out. That should give you an idea of what you need and what fits you best. If you get the opportunity I would hit up some mom and pop shops instead of the big chain stores. Just starting out I think they would be alot more helpful in getting you set up. Good luck!!!


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## fishenhard (Sep 13, 2006)

Thanks for the info. i will try to hit up academey. maybe look at a marten pse or bear seem like my price rang


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## TXPalerider (May 21, 2004)

Look at some of the package bows at Gander and Bass Pro. Personally, I'd stay as far away from Academy as possible when buying a bow. Odds are you will end up with a piece of junk that won't fit you.

If you would like me to help you out in more detail, shoot me a PM.


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## calphil (Jan 17, 2011)

there is nothing wrong with academy bows. yes the bows they carry are nothing fancy and if you are just now getting into bow hunting personally i think its a good start for a decent price, i worked at academy for the past 3yrs and have bow hunted ever since i started hunting 20+ yrs ago with my dad. some of the workers that work academy actually know what they are talking about and the prices are way cheaper than BassPro/Gander/Cabelas


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## TXPalerider (May 21, 2004)

calphil said:


> there is nothing wrong with academy bows. yes the bows they carry are nothing fancy and if you are just now getting into bow hunting personally i think its a good start for a decent price, i worked at academy for the past 3yrs and have bow hunted ever since i started hunting 20+ yrs ago with my dad. some of the workers that work academy actually know what they are talking about and the prices are way cheaper than BassPro/Gander/Cabelas


I realize everything Academy sells is not junk, the problem is, their best bows are pretty low on the quality/technology spectrum. Chances are, a newbie is not going to end up buying their top of the line though. So, it's fairly likely he will end up with junk.

And, there may be a few workers at Academy that know what they are talking about, but the overwhelming majority (99%) don't have a clue. I have overheard MANY conversations across their sales counters that included advice that could have resulted in a severe injury to the customer.

If a person knows what they are looking for and Academy sells it, by all means buy it there. But, if you are new to archery and are looking for archery advice, Academy is not the place to start. Not to mention, Academys do not have ranges. And i would NEVER suggest a person buy a bow without having the opportunity to shoot it first.

I'm not going to debate the issue any further. The original poster asked for opinions/advice....that's mine, He can take it or leave it.

I'm out.


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## capt4fish (Dec 4, 2004)

Go to Bass Pro on 288 s. Shoot a bunch of different bows there. Decide what you like/want/can afford, then look for the best deal on that bow.

I shoot a Bow Tech Diamond, small, quiet, smooth, not to bad on money. I love it.


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## Texast224 (May 8, 2011)

Go to Archerytalk.com and get a used Hoyt Vulcan. You will spend about 300 Yo 350 on the bow but it is worth every penny versus anything you will find at bass proshop. Sometimes you can find one with all the accessories on it for around 450. That is the way to go IMO. And yes, it does become addicting.


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## callsignsleepy (Apr 3, 2007)

Santa Fe archery is a very good place to go, they'll size you up and let you shoot a bunch of bows. They are a very helpful bunch of people.


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## Shaky (May 21, 2004)

Another note, there seems to be an awful lot of hype about all the newest fastest bows out there, seems like everybody I bowhunt/shoot with just about buy the latest and greatest every time Matthews comes out with the latest model. Dont start out thinking you need to drop a $1000 bucks on your first bow, you dont.

Any full time exclusive archery shop is going to have some used bows for decent prices, go there explain your new to the sport and I guarantee you will walk out with a bow that fits you and your budget.
The deer and hogs Ive shot with my 6 year old Bowtech arent disappointed that they didnt get stuck with a new Matthews Z7. Dead is dead and the few fps that my buddies have over me, doesnt really matter all that much in most hunting type situations.
Ive been bowhunting/shooting since I was 10 and including my starter recurve set Ive had exactly 5 bows in my life, my current bow is a Bowtech and I bought it used. Take care of them, get proficient, know your limitations and its a helluva addicting sport that will definately get your blood pumping.

But, I do agree that unless you know what your looking at, and what you need as far as draw length, weight etc....pawn shops are awful places for a novice to get started out in.


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## CamoWhaler (Jul 13, 2006)

I have got a bowtech in the classifieds for sale that come with all the extra stuff that you could possibly need, even throwing in a hog and deer target, check it out.


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## TXPalerider (May 21, 2004)

Shaky said:


> Another note, there seems to be an awful lot of hype about all the newest fastest bows out there, seems like everybody I bowhunt/shoot with just about buy the latest and greatest every time Matthews comes out with the latest model. Dont start out thinking you need to drop a $1000 bucks on your first bow, you dont.
> 
> ...............


I agree. But, I can't tell you how many people I have seen try to get in as cheap as possible and buy a below average quality bow, only to be looking to upgrade in a year. Don't worry about speed, all the new bows are fast enough. Just make sure you are getting solid current technology. Otherwise, you'll likely be doing it all over again in a year or two.


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## THE JAMMER (Aug 1, 2005)

As has been said, the technology in the past several years has been geometric, and if you can afford it now, you will be way ahead of the game.

If I were you, I would try to come up with $399, and buy a Mission (made by Matthews) Craze. My kid and my full grown friend just bought one. You can adjust the draw length from 19"-30" and the draw weight from 15#- 70#. It is a very smooth forgiving bow that also has great speed- max 308 fps.

The beauty of this is: often times when someone starts out, the draw length they start with, is not the draw length they end up with. Anchor points will change as skill develops. So being able to change your draw length by unscrewing 2 allen screws, rotating the cam, and re-installing the screws in about a minute is huge. Then adjustable draw weight range not only gives you flexibility, but when it comes time to sell it, you can sell it to* ANYBODY*. There is no one, except for some 31-32" draw guy, that this bow will not fit. It is 28" axle to axle, just like the almost $1000 matthews z7, with a nice 7" brace height, and very smooth drawing. My friend also got one for his wife, and she is very slight, and is shooting 25# at a 25" draw. That same bow, which is in pink camo, could be shot at 30# draw and 70#. Total flexibility.

And the kicker, the bow alone is $299, but for $399 you get the bow, a rest, sight, sling, and bow quiver. You are ready to go, except for arrows. My kid's, set at 45#, is shooting 220 fps. Ted Nugent, love him or hate him he does put down some animals, shoots a 48# compound.

You might watch ebay for these, but it's been my experience that the service you get from a full service archery shop, in setting up and tuning your bow, is more than worth the little you might save by "looking for a deal."
IMHO


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## devil1824 (Sep 4, 2010)

I bought a mission craze for my son in November. Absolutely awesome bow! A coworker bought 1 for himself and he loves it. Can't go wrong with it.


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## TXPalerider (May 21, 2004)

I'm not knocking the Craze because I am not familiar with it at all. It appears to be a great bow for the money. The only suggestion I would make (my opinion) is buy a parallel limb bow. 

Also, it is not realistic to compare the Craze to a Z7. Certainly, they will both get the job done, but, those two bows are nowhere near the same caliber a bow. The differences are great.

For the record, I do not own a Z7 and am not suggesting someone start with that bow. In fact, I'm not even a Mathews fan. But, that comparison just isn't fair.

Just my opinion.


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## Delta Elite (May 28, 2011)

I have hunted exclusively with Mathews products over the last 10+ years after starting with Hoyt bows.

I own a Mathews Z7 Extreme in 70/30. I love the extreme for what it does, but would not recommend a beginner spend money on upper echelon archery equipment simply because they want to have "the best."

I wouldn't even be concerned with name brands at the beginner stage unless we are concerned with warranty and quality.

A beginner in archery needs to focus on the fundamentals of the sport, proper technique and repetition, repetition, repetition. And not simply practice. Practice does not make perfect....perfect practice makes perfect. Get an archery coach if you can (or at least some sound guidance) because if you practice bad technique over and over again, you will only be really good at doing it the wrong way. Remember, it is a lot easier to develop good habits than it is to break bad habits.

When I first delved into this support in the late 90's, I practiced for a solid year before I took my bow in the field for a hunt. You owe it to the game you are attempting to harvest to become proficient with your weapon of choice and with archery, there is so little room for error. A slight miscalculation in yardage, trajectory or moving your anchor point a fraction of an inch can spell the difference between a humane kill and tracking an animal for 500 yards.

In any event, a novice archer should select a bow not by who has the prettiest advertisment in TTH, but by what it offers the shooter as an individual. Look at brace height, "tuneability", ATA, type of cam, etc. And yes, speed is important (not the most important factor, though)..not necessarily because of the KE that is generated..my "outdated" Mathews Q2 doesn't generate nearly the speeds (and subsequently the KE) as a PSE Omen, but it will still effect full penetration through a boar's shield at 30 yds. The main reason speed is an important factor is because it flattens trajectory. But, like I said, it is not the most important. For a new archer, the bow's forgiveness should be one of the most important factors. You don't want a bow with a short brace height and short ATA that will flat out scream in terms of velocity only to find you just can't shoot it. It will ruin a beginner's confidence.

I would recommend a 7" (roughly) brace height with at least a 32-34" ATA generating around 300 to 315 fps IBO with appropriate draw length and draw weight for the shooter. Might even want to start out with a solo cam--or a slaved cam system because cams getting out of time with string creep will be one less thing to worry about.

My outdated Q2 fits this description and is probably the best bow I have ever owned.....yes, better than the Extreme.


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## THE JAMMER (Aug 1, 2005)

TXPalerider said:


> I'm not knocking the Craze because I am not familiar with it at all. It appears to be a great bow for the money. The only suggestion I would make (my opinion) is buy a parallel limb bow.
> 
> Also, it is not realistic to compare the Craze to a Z7. Certainly, they will both get the job done, but, those two bows are nowhere near the same caliber a bow. The differences are great.
> 
> ...


Hey TX,

I re- read the whole thread twice and can't find anywhere where someone was comparing a Craze to a Z7. As you said that would be ridiculous.

My statement about the Z7 was saying that the axle to axle was the same as the Craze. And because of the fact that the accuracy of the Z7 has dispelled the myth that short axle to axle boths are not accurate, I was simply applying that quality to the Craze.


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## Delta Elite (May 28, 2011)

THE JAMMER said:


> Hey TX,
> 
> I re- read the whole thread twice and can't find anywhere where someone was comparing a Craze to a Z7. As you said that would be ridiculous.
> 
> My statement about the Z7 was saying that the axle to axle was the same as the Craze. And because of the fact that the accuracy of the Z7 has dispelled the myth that short axle to axle boths are not accurate, I was simply applying that quality to the Craze.


With all do respect, while I would not consider the Z7 to be an inaccurate bow, longer ATA bow with otherwise the same characteristics of a Z7 would be inherently more accurate than the shorter ATA bow.

That acute string angle of a Z7 is heck on accuracy, all other things being equal. There is a reason we rarely see short ATA bows in serious competition.


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## devil1824 (Sep 4, 2010)

Try taking a competition bow stalking through the brush. LOL! It's a give and take. If you want to hunt from a tree and do some stalking you better not get a out dated 32" or longer bow. That's why I love my DXT. I don't use any silencers or stabilizers. There's no string loop or anything else on the string. I want to keep it light and don't need any extra **** to catch on trees.


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## THE JAMMER (Aug 1, 2005)

Delta Elite said:


> With all do respect, while I would not consider the Z7 to be an inaccurate bow, longer ATA bow with otherwise the same characteristics of a Z7 would be inherently more accurate than the shorter ATA bow.
> 
> That acute string angle of a Z7 is heck on accuracy, all other things being equal. There is a reason we rarely see short ATA bows in serious competition.


There's also a reason we rarely see long ATA bows in serious hunting. So get the longest most accurate bow you can for competition, and the shortest most accurate bow you can for hunting. Most of us aren't that rich, so we compromise with a lean to that which we do most- in my case, hunting. I would rather lose an inch or two of accuracy in my 3d shoots, than fight a 38" target bow in a tree stand or ground blind.


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## Delta Elite (May 28, 2011)

devil1824 said:


> Try taking a competition bow stalking through the brush. LOL! It's a give and take. If you want to hunt from a tree and do some stalking you better not get a out dated 32" or longer bow. That's why I love my DXT. I don't use any silencers or stabilizers. There's no string loop or anything else on the string. I want to keep it light and don't need any extra **** to catch on trees.


Not to turn this into one of those huge debates, but bow hunters have stalked using 48" recurves for centuries. It's a luxury but definitely not a requirement (short bow).

You are 100 percent on the mark about give and take in archery equipment. There are trade-offs for everything. To gain speed, you typically have to increase the power draw curve. Since you can't increase your draw length, you must shorten your brace height. Or get a ridiculously aggressive cam like the Omen. Very sharp valley, no room for relaxation or it will pull your arm through the riser.

In any event, I was not taking a position on whether or not a longer bow would be more suitable for hunting; rather, I was simply pointing out the fact that long bows are inherently more accurate than short ATA's.

I love my Extreme but the q2 was so far ahead of its time. I would still put that thing head to head against any bow on the market today.

That DXT is no slouch either.


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## marshhunter (Mar 20, 2008)

TXPalerider said:


> I agree. But, I can't tell you how many people I have seen try to get in as cheap as possible and buy a below average quality bow, only to be looking to upgrade in a year. Don't worry about speed, all the new bows are fast enough. Just make sure you are getting solid current technology. Otherwise, you'll likely be doing it all over again in a year or two.


I am the perfect example of this I got a pse stinger for christmas about two years ago and I will have new bow by thurs.... I would definitely recomend not skimping out on buying a more expensive bow..not saying you need the fastest bow available...but dont buy a **** bow just because its cheap....it'll come back to bite you in tha arse...trust me ive been there and got the tshirt


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## devil1824 (Sep 4, 2010)

I also have a 52" Martin mamba recurve and a 66" long bow I attemp to hunt with. I love the weight of my recurve but I've missed many a critter.:redface:
It's all good. I think fishinhard has plenty of info now.:biggrin:


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## berto (Oct 14, 2004)

best advice I can give you is go to a local archery shop and let them take care of you. Will cost you a little more but IMO the service is worth it. You get a bow set up for YOU, not the guy you bought it from. The Shop I got mine from took the time to teach me how to shoot. I made the mistake and also bought a used bow first. Draw was a 30 and it beat the hell out of me, I couldnt hit the target. Pretty much didnt know what the heck I was doing. One trip and 3 hrs later I had a new bow with the correct draw 28" and actually knew how to shoot it. 

Support your mom and pop archery places. If they dont get business then we will be forced to deal with big box stores....... And we know what kind of info we get there


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## THE JAMMER (Aug 1, 2005)

berto said:


> best advice I can give you is go to a local archery shop and let them take care of you. Will cost you a little more but IMO the service is worth it. You get a bow set up for YOU, not the guy you bought it from. The Shop I got mine from took the time to teach me how to shoot. I made the mistake and also bought a used bow first. Draw was a 30 and it beat the hell out of me, I couldnt hit the target. Pretty much didnt know what the heck I was doing. One trip and 3 hrs later I had a new bow with the correct draw 28" and actually knew how to shoot it.
> 
> Support your mom and pop archery places. If they dont get business then we will be forced to deal with big box stores....... And we know what kind of info we get there


ROGER THAT X 10 !!!!


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