# Mako Pro 17 Skiff review Day '0'



## bryster

No in-water use yet, so I can only report on what I have so far.
I'll post up another after I break it in.

This is rather long, if it does not interest you then you probably want to click away.


So this is my first new boat, so I’ll give you some background…My past experience has been a 14 foot runabout (with 25hp motor) when I was in my early 20’s and 2 months of ownership of an 18 foot Bayliner pleasure boat.

I’ve been in a boat on Copano bay and in party boats but other than that I’ve been landlocked regarding salt water.

Early this year the wife felt like if we had a boat we’d be on the fish more often. When the wife thinks buying a boat is a good idea, jump on it! So we began looking at what we could afford and began looking at some used boats

We wanted:
Bay and lake usage
Possibly pull a tube with one of the kids
Handle my wife, two kids, and I within the posted weight limit
Good gas mileage, and preferably easy to tow
Fit in the garage
Reliable and safe
Within our meager budget

Initially we looked used but the budget for used was around 6k, and I just didn’t see much where I really wanted to buy. I didn’t want to have to put a lot of work into a boat, or have something I didn’t fully trust.

I then saw the low payments on a new boat…holy **** they finance these things forever. I have good credit, no truck payments, and got a decent raise last year. I could afford a small number of new boats at a higher price than used. While I could easily get credit double of what I eventually settled on, I wanted a ‘starter boat’ with good gas mileage and something that would fit in the garage.

We then looked at some aluminum bass boats. The Crestliner was interesting, and the Bass Tracker had a ‘coastal’ edition that included vinyl flooring. The trailer had a swing hitch which fit in the garage nicely, and the boat had a lot of nice features like dual livewells. However the trailer was “galvashield” and not a pure galvanized trailer and the vinyl covering that replaced the carpet still had a lot of small areas where dirt could accumulate; it was merely a carpet replacement and didn’t look like it would hold up well over time. A bass boat just didn’t seem like a good bay boat, but the deal killer was the posted maximum weight was 575 pounds. The wife is light and the boys are about 300 pounds together. With my 210 pound self it was just not going to work. We fully understand that 4 people on a small boat will be VERY tight. I think the majority of the time we fish it will be 2-3 of us anyway. 

So we glanced over at the Pro Skiff 17. This boat looked like something we were looking for. I prefer the v front rather than skiff or flat bottom, but the boat fit the bill. With the wide beam it also gave much more room in the front casting deck. The 850 pound capacity cleared the 4 of us and gear easily, 60hp motor is workable and fuel efficient. I know speed-wise this thing isn’t going to blast us around, but posted top speeds are around 34mph (not fully loaded of course). The video on the Mako site was interesting, and the external videos we found, plus one on the sales ladies phone when she rode one looked very nice.

I looked the boat up and down, and checked the threads here… I saw the snarky comments, the legitimate ones, and inspected the boat to see indeed where corners were cut. I’ve posted some pics below on those areas that highlight the types of things one might see on these. I was aware of that when buying the boat, but the price and utility of the boat looked to fit my need.

Two large casting decks, walk around room, yeti-clone, basic center console (made of the same plastic as the cooler it seems), a single small sealed storage area, all aluminum trailer, and not much else. Included is a single 6 gallon fuel tank, a single battery, the basic navigation lights, and something that I liked a lot: 100% composite construction.

The boat was $16,020 with the 60HP. It included free 5 year warranty on the Mercury engine and two years of “VIP” card at Bass Pro Shops. They had a deal that also included $500 gift card if purchased before April 16, basically dropping it to $15,520. I plan on using the gift card for a Lowrance HDS5 unit. 
I watched the inventory drop as I procrastinated, and by the time I was ready to pull the trigger the only one they had left included trailer guides ($125) and spare wheel/tire ($175). I figured I was going to buy both so it really wasn’t too much more than originally intended.

The sales process was great; no pressure and no hassle. They answered my questions best they could, but they are obviously not as skilled or knowledgeable as a ‘real’ boat store. I think indeed they might offer a particular boat style or size to someone where it doesn’t best fit them. This is where I would recommend that true newbies or those who don’t want to do research should work with a ‘real’ boat store. 

I submitted paperwork for the loan and got a great deal on financing. I went ahead and added the extended warranty, which I rarely do, that covers boat, motor, and trailer for 7 years. As long as I perform the proper maintenance, I shouldn’t have to do major repair work for awhile.

I had measured the boat more than once and knew that a 17’4” boat length does not include trailer tongue or engine. The total length was 22’4”. The downside is my garage is 20’ from wall to door. Even adding a swing hitch I was about 6” too short at best. Our youngest son had moved bedrooms and the bedroom directly on the other side of the garage was being used for bicycle storage. The wife was completely agreeable to cutting the wall with a notch for the engine if needed. I had never done destructive modifications to the house, but had a new sawzall in the box waiting for just such a need.

So on the big day I hit McClain trailers to pick up the Fulton Swing hitch, and then out to pick up the boat. We did the walk through with the prep person, fired up the engine and hooked it up to the truck. I pulled away and had a hard time believing that I actually have a boat behind the truck again.

I pulled into the garage and backed it all the way up. It barely but perfectly cleared the garage door opening. No T Top for me unless it folds down. You have to understand that I have motorcycles and bicycles in the garage so I had already moved around as much as I could. I couldn’t angle the boat in the garage. I knew the swing hitch alone wouldn’t allow the boat to fit so I pulled it forward, flipped the breakers, grabbed the sawzall, and began cutting. I carved out a nice notch just wide and tall enough for the motor and backed it up. I had a decision to make now. I could enlarge the hole which would take up much more of the room than already defined (currently I think I can go about 18” and have plenty of room with the swing hitch) or I could cut the trailer and install the swing hitch.

There is a very bad feeling when cutting up your brand new trailer. I moved the wires out of the way, scribed the line, and cut away. After slowly drilling all 16 holes, installing, and properly tightening the bolts the trailer was essentially one piece again. With the swing hitch, and the notched garage, I now have the boat fitting into the garage as intended. 

A late night with the hitch but I would be ready for the motor break in on Lake Conroe, I had thought. 

A strong wind blew on Saturday and Sunday so I sat in the garage and made motor noises.

I plan on heading out next weekend for a couple of break in runs, I’ll post back my thoughts then.

Pictures to follow, I tried to focus on areas of the boat you don't see on the Mako site, and the 'bad' things that I could find. The Mako site has plenty of beauty shots.

The battery and fuel tank are held in with Stainless screws but the cooler and rod holders are not - I'll replace the cooler tie down screws with stainless.

Any other advice for prep or things I am missing to install/update would be very welcome.

I plan on adding a VHF radio, the Lowrance HDS5, a small battery for the electronics and possible amplifier and Mp3 player, spare tank (3 or 6 gallon?), mount some rod holders to the back of the cooler (using 5200?), and a second, smaller, cooler mounted to the bow casting deck for fish.


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## yaker

I was thinking about buying the same boat. I think almost everthing you said in your post applied to me too. The only things I wanted to add to the boat is a bimini top (have wife and kids, won't be out very long if their burning up), bow mount trolling motor, fish finder/gps, the fulton device you bought, radio, a cooler for casting deck and change anything that looked like it would not tolerate the coast, non stainless screws, hardware ect. I had my eye on using that $500 gift card on the same thing, and that vip / %20 off card for other stuff. Yeah financially, family wise, storage issues everything sounded just like me. My wife was kind of pushing it too, except I did buy a used boat and it is going to be a lot of work. Hopefully it's worth the savings and I won't be changing my mind and buying one of those Mako skiffs. But if I do, it is a safe bet I will be getting the same boat as you. Good luck with your boat and great purchase.


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## fattyflattie

Very much enjoyed the write up. It looks and sounds like you know what to look for, change out, and have identified where some corners were cut, most of which you can probably easily fix.

I would think about adding a Ritchie compass as well, cant ever fully rely on the electronics.

Good luck and please update.


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## beenfishingyet

Congrats, enjoy the ride.


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## 27contender

Well written! If the whole Capitan thing does not work out for ya you can still do write ups. I like that boat as well. I have always fancied the 24' Carolina skiff and when I saw this Mako it intrigued me. What exactly does the bow look like underneath? Is it set up like a Cat hull?

R


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## cnoise

Thanks for the write-up. My wife and I (at her suggestion) just bought this bought. We'll be taking it out this Sunday for the first time. It was just a great time to by this boat at Bass Pro. Unfortunately we have had commitments since we bought it. Now, it's on. We're both new to boat ownership, but excited that we pulled the trigger. Thanks again.


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## bryster

Congrats! We broke in the motor last weekend.
I mounted some rod holders on the ice chest, and GPS/fish finder plus VHF radio on the center console. Gonna take it out tomorrow.

I'm interested in how you and others are setting them pup.

Ill take pictures and post more this weekend


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## vanjr

Looking forward to following this thread.


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## cnoise

Finally got the boat in the water. Felt great to be out there.


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## ShawnQ

Good looking boat! I liked those when I first saw them, hard to beat for the money.
Now if they would only make one just a little bit bigger, 18, 19, or 20...

How did it ride?


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## vanjr

Ditto-more details!


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## cnoise

Since this is my first boat, I don't really have much to compare it to. The boat seemed to get up to speed fairly quick. It wasn't windy when we first went out, but on the way back it picked up quite a bit. Water started getting choppy. Boat did fine. On some of the bigger waves it didn't seem to rough. Fishing from the boat was great. Very well balanced. My wife could be walking around and I didn't even know it. We'll get it back out the weekend after next. Wife wants to go to Galveston, so we'll see where we end up.


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## cnoise

Bystar, here are some pics(not great) of the transducer mount.


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## yellowskeeter

Sweet ride!


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## ReelWork

GREAT WRITE-UP, Congratulations and for what it's worth, I'm proud of ya... You laid out your priorities beautifully and then while looking, you allowed the boats to tell you which one was the right one for you. 

I've seen the Mako and for what it's worth, I was pretty impressed for the bang for the buck and overall package quality. Also like that this is a very good alternative to the Carolina Skiff and probably better riding with the larger sponsons. 

Congrats again. Wish you many many years of enjoyment, happy memories and safe boating.


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## joebucko

*Nice job on the write up*

Thanks for the nice write up and pictures. I have been looking at the Pro 17 Skiff but have not been impressed with the knowledge of the sales people at BassPro. I believe the boat is capable of doing exactly what I want to do but I desperately need feedback from actual owners like you. I'm sure I am not alone saying we would really appreciate occasional updates on your experiences with this boat. Here are some of the questions I asked the sales people at BassPro but they were unable to answer.
How does it handle in heavy chop and how dry is the ride?
Exactly where is the optional bow seat pedestal mounted?
Where is the transducer located? I have had a hard time adjusting the transducer on my existing boat so instead of continuing to reposition it (more holes) I installed a transducer plate then built a sliding mechanism attached to the plate that allows me to move the transducer up or down while on the go to determine the optimal position.

Thanks again for the info and pics and good luck.


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## bryster

Thanks cnoise, that helps!

Yes, the salespeople really didn't seem to be experts at much. Mine did point out that I could get the swing away hitch part at McClains, and she had some video of her on the boat.
They mount the bow seatbase immediately in front of the front storage - they said there is an aluminum support underneath there but I didn't get up in there yet. I plan on mounting a 54quart igloo cooler for storage and fishing seat.

The short version of my update is "it rides rougher than a V hull, but is dry". I havn't been on any skiff before so I can't compare it to a similar boat, and haven't been on the bay yet but first day was choppy Lake Conroe and the second day was really windy on Lake Somerville.

So again, it's kind of long you can skip to the pictures.

When I last reported, I was sitting in the garage making motor noises and wishing I could go take the boat out.

On Sunday April 22 it looked like the wind would be down enough to dunk it in the water.

There was no rush since we wouldn't be fishing, and the engine break-in process was less than exciting so we got up at a reasonable hour and headed out around 11am by the time I the trailer hooked up and triple checked. I noticed the lights weren't working but a few minutes of troubleshooting highlighted a loose ground wire on the truck. That was easily fixed.

By the way, I don’t have a receiver hitch. I just bolted the ball onto my bumper. That's what the bumper is for, right? With a light enough rig I figured it wasn't a problem anyway. I towed my other boat (18 foot Bayliner that I had for about 3 months) with it, too. Since then, I did realize one small advantage to a receiver hitch; when I turn tightly, the beam of the trailer can actually pinch against the bumper the way I have it now - with a receiver hitch I might get a little better angle so I will probably wind up throwing some money at a bolt on one.

We arrived at Lake Conroe to notice the launch fee had doubled from $5 to $10 since I last came up there. Really? That's a lot of money to pay considering I may also buy gas during the day. Personally, because the price was high when we did refuel I went to the next available location, which was a Valero on the water.

I didn’t have the GPS/Fish Finder or the VHF radio yet. We were at the absolute basic requirements; life jackets, throw able life preserver, horn, fire extinguisher, and some rope for dock lines. I brought a 10lb weight from a fitness machine and some rope for an emergency anchor - I wasn't expecting to need to set down but just in case something catastrophic happened I would have at least something.

I was a little nervous so I double checked everything before dunking the trailer. The boat came off easy. I pulled it up to the dock, had the wife and kid hold it (I had tied it up), and ran to the truck to park. I just wasn't ready for my wife to pull the truck up the ramp; there were too many things on my mind.

We took off at just above idle. Finally past the no wake buoys I throttle up a bit. I had to keep it to half throttle for an hour, and then 3/4 throttle for another hour - with varying speeds in between. To me, this area of Lake Conroe by the dam is very rough, with lots of boats and jet skis seemingly just doing circles. We found the little Mako to be pretty rough, but completely dry. The winds were down but the waves were up. My original boat I had in my early 20's was a 14 foot runabout that didn't take chop at all, but I mostly used it on Lake Austin so it was never too much of an issue. The Mako took the waves fairly hard, especially since my maximum was half throttle. We shut it down a few times and moved around the boat, standing on the casting decks and shifting weight. I was pretty impressed. With only the three of us and no fishing equipment the boat seemed very well laid out and plenty spacious.

After awhile of goofing off we figured to head back and refill the tank. Mako cites it as 6.6 gallons I think and we had no spare so we didn't want to run dry! When we idled back near the launch site we saw the Game Warden was busy inspecting boats, but although he use binoculars on us, he didn't seem to be too interested in us this time. At the pumps we had used a whopping 1.5 gallons - that felt good!

We headed back out for another hour or so and then motored back to load up. When I was getting the truck in line there was an absolutely huge boat on a triple axle trailer with a semi truck pulling it. He was sort-of lined up to be angled in but I never saw them pay the launch fee. Another truck and trailer slotted onto the ramp, which fit 3 normal sized boats so there was a single opening and I took advantage. The boat in the middle hit the gas hard to get up on the trailer, the backwash pushed me off course, and got a little crooked so I backed up and started again. With a new trailer you're not always 100% sure how it's going to load, or at least that is true for me so I was being pretty cautious. Second time I was right on, hit the gas, and squirted up onto the trailer straight and true. 

The guys lined up in the middle of the ramp pulled forward but with their motor still tilted down. They drug the skeg and actually chipped the propeller pretty bad. It made me double check and tilt up the motor on my boat!

I winched up the boat and got out of the way of that huge boat. I can't even really describe it; it wasn't fishing or a yacht per say, and not even really a cigarette boat; it was just some big substitute for manhood.
On the way home I noticed the boat bouncing just a tad more than it should and pulled over. It seemed I didn't wench it 100% up, it was just shy of pressing against the forward wench roller. I really don't like how they set up the trailer anyway, the roller is for a V type hull but the very front of the boat is flat. I will change this somehow with the very least being a skid pad or mini keel guard to press against the roller. I couldn't wench it any more while on the road and it wasn't like the stern was hanging off the trailer so we drove it home.

Starbrite Deck wash is the bomb. Spraying water didn't help the deck, but a little Starbrite and a floor broom and then a rinse of water made it look new in a jiffy. Backing the trailer up the incline and lining it up with the very narrow slot of the garage was interesting, but I got it done without breaking anything.

Over the next week I drilled my first holes. I really didn't want to hit the hull yet so my first ones were in the yeti-clone. I attached a 4 rod holder. I bought some plastic stand-offs and ground one side to an angle, then used some Goop Marine on them plus the screws to seal it up. I still had to take a deep break before pulling the trigger on the drill!

I also set the Lowrance Elite 5 and Cobra VHF on the dash, but they couldn't quite co-exist with the large single cup holder Mako felt inclined to install. I re-arranged and shuffled but I never was happy with the layout. I also looked at the rigging tube and it sure looked like I would have a hard time pulling the cables through - Lowrance has a fairly large connector that is not removable, and the cable is a solid run back to the transducer so you need some room. I sat on it for a few days. 

Finally I had the gumption and ran my fish tape through the rigging tube from the center console to the back. I taped up the Lowrance cable and pulled it through without much drama. Now I was on my way.

I figured the only real option was a RAM mount. This would allow me to position the Lowrance head unit out of the way of the Cobra VHF, and also provide some vibration resistance - which according to some of the earlier users of the new series I might want to have. This would entail a trip to the boat store...so here is my quandary: Bass Pro Shops gives me 20% off any of their house brand, and 10% off any other non electronic purchase. This is their 'VIP' program which you get when you buy a boat from them. However, it is a little over an hour drive to the nearest store. 

Other than Academy, the next closest store to me is Gander Mountain which I wasn't sure would have the RAM mount I needed.

I compiled a small list of goodies based on input from the 2 coolers; Danforth style anchor, chain, rope, the RAM mount, and I saw a transducer mounting plate there. At $18 you still had to screw it into the stern, but from then on you could screw into the mounting plate without drilling into the stern itself. I really, really didn't want to drill into my new boat hull, but I also was hesitant to pay the $60 for the Stern Saver so I made the trip with my list in hand.

I was able to find everything but the transducer mount - one fellow thought I was crazy and said they didn't carry it. I explained that I was there just a few days before and saw it. He had the audacity to ask me if I had shopped at other stores that day. I was like "dude, I saw it. I went online and it is stocked online, too. I wish your website let me check store stock but it doesn't so here I am." I continued to walk up and down the aisles and dude #1 eventually brings over dude #2, he actually knows what I am talking about but he can't find it either. We go look online, and I point him right to it...he checks stock and...no go. argh. So I head to the check out, nearly $100 lighter.

I had also looked at coolers again. I want to save the Yeti clone for human food and drink, and use a cheaper cooler for the fish that one day I expect to catch. Mako put a storage area up on the front casting deck for the 17 footer, and it gets pretty much right in the way of where I would mount a cooler. I found an Igloo 54 quart that I think will work well but haven't pulled the trigger yet. For tie down I want something flush to the deck. There are some interesting ones from Kennedy but I think I could just drill a hole and mount something underneath. Then I would just run a threaded rod and a hook to hold the cooler. When not mounted there would only be a small hole. Anyway, that is on my short to midterm list and not part of my plans for today.

Back in the boat I laid the GPS and VHF up, marked the holes, and squeezed the trigger of the drill - no turning back now! One nice thing about the plastic center console, the drill cuts like a knife through butter. I cut a hole for the Lowrance cable, and for the VHF antenna cable. I also cut a hole in the side of the console to pass the antenna cable through. I felt bad about cutting through, but it was necessary.

I checked under the dash a few times and identified hot and ground, but couldn't find a 'switched' one; it would always be on. For now, I figured this would work considering that I could easily disconnect the cable from the head unit if needed. The Lowrance manual specifies a 3 amp inline fuse, but even though they price the product at $550 they didn't feel the need to include a $2 inline fuse. A trip to the store secured what I needed.

I got everything wired and powered. The transducer would have to wait; I wasn't 100% comfortable about a mounting location with the 'trapped air channels' or whatever they are called in the hull, and figured the GPS and VHF would be enough to play with for now. I did mount the transducer to a 1/2" PVC pipe so we could stick it in the water when not running, just to see.

We were still missing something very important - freshwater endorsements on our license. Since we were planning to also get our lines wet this time we needed them. The first attempt was at Academy, and the lady wanted to charge us for a full license - i questioned here a second time and she said we would need to pay. I sure didn't think so, so we headed home to consult with the internet. Sure enough, you can purchase just the needed stamp if you already have a license so this time we headed to Walmart. The first lady had no idea and had to call someone over but he knew right away what to do. Finally, we had the license!

We also picked up some bait. I’m not much of a freshwater guy and actual fishing wasn’t the main priority this time so I grabbed some night crawlers and some Gulp corn just to try.

We headed out toward Lake Somerville and arrived without much drama. Paying the $3 boat launch fee we drove up to the launch site and as we prepped the boat for launching I scanned for the dock. There wasn’t one. So this would be a new twist as well. I would have to launch the boat, drive it over and throw anchor in shallow water, then climb out, jump in the truck and park it. Then the family would have to get wet and climb in the boat, too. My older son reminded me he could not get wet as he had a growth removed and it still wasn’t fully healed. The younger one I figured might as well stay dry too. I instructed the wife to pull the truck up once we got launched, but I was going to have to push the boat off the trailer with two people already on it. I probably could have backed a tad further in, but after some heaving and grunting I got the boat pushed off and climbed in.

The wife didn’t reverse my truck into the lake, which was a good thing. I blame the forums for posting those pictures where it happens and burning that image into my mind every time! Since I was still unsure about how shallow I could run my boat I anchored a deeper than I needed to, but the wife swam over and we got her up and on board.

The wind was really moving so I tried to find some protected spots. Unlike my first ride, we were getting a little spray into the boat when we had a cross wind. The ride was rough and I could tell we had 4 people in it. I think we’ll try to keep it to 2-3 more often than running with all 4. We chugged along and stopped in a few spots but didn’t get a bite. I dropped the anchor and it held nice and firm on all but one attempt, and more important it was also easy to pull back up with no snags. I had never used a Danforth style before, but with a little chain and enough rope it works surprisingly well. Early on the kids had lost interest, and were more interested in playing with the fish finder (I had the sonar mounted on the temporary pole) so we headed back towards the dock after a couple of hours.

With the wind, which would be a cross wind at the ramp, I carefully lined up and squirted onto the trailer the first time. Having the guide poles on the side is a huge help; I didn’t know what I was missing on my other boats. So no fish slime but also no salt water yet. The ride home was uneventful and I carefully backed up the trailer into its new home after an easy cleanup.

I had planned to take it out on the may 5th but wasn’t able to. On May 6th I framed and sheet-rocked the garage nook I made for the engine. I had just put some tarps over the hole between the garage and spare bedroom and needed to finish the work (BTW – I love my wife!) First time on the bay is planned for Mother’s day weekend.


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## Jerry-rigged

Thanks for all the info! That Mako Skiff looks neat. I am finally glad to see some "real world" reports for this hull.


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## joebucko

*Thanks for the update*

I am glad to finally see owner reports on this boat. I really like the package but want to hear more about the actual performance from actual owners. Please keep reporting.


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## ReelWork

Excellent write up, once again!


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## KEMPOC

Congrats! Your excitement is pretty cool. Have fun!


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## Longbeard

How is the Fulton hitch holding up? It says to only use them on steel trailers, I notice this one is aluminum. Didn't know if the aluminum would be too soft to take the flex and vibration.


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## 24Buds

great report. I am torn between your boat and a Carolina skiff....I thank you for the reports.


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## tboltmike

24Buds said:


> great report. I am torn between your boat and a Carolina skiff....I thank you for the reports.


The Mako site has a video comparing the two. Not sure if Carolina has a rebutal.

I saw this Mako at BPS several months ago and was impressed with its cleanness, utility, simplicity, features and cost. The ads claim 35 mph with the 60 horse. As mentioned, fuel economy in a fairly speedy boat with the primary features needed, CC, rod holders, live well, ice chest and nooks for gear.


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## Mini-x Fan

Did I see one of y'all skiff owners out today in West Bay?

Tight Lines and those look great


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## bryster

They've been selling a ton of em - I was watching the stock online when I was looking to buy and they don't stay for long at all.

I haven't been on west bay yet. I was out on east bay saturday out of Stingaree - didn't know there was a tournament going on. 9 boats at Pepper Grove reef at one point in the morning, including an oyster boat working.

As far as the swing hitch, I'm keeping a close eye on it. There are 16 bolts (1/2" I think) that mount the swing adapter onto the frame. There are only two bolts that connect the adapter to itself by design, i'd be more worried about those two bolts than the other 16.

If you look at the pictures on the Mako site, the trailer they have pictured looks like it has a swing hitch. It's not bolted on though. Not sure if there was a reason why that didn't make it into production, but even with the swing hitch its too long to fit into a 20' garage.
http://www.mako-boats.com/boat/gallery.cfm?boat=3483

I've been in the salt water twice now and will do a little more write up. I've been learning a lot, but still have lots to go.

What I can say in short, it's been a very dry, but very rough ride. Crossing the bay against the wind was interesting. I've never ridden in a non V boat before and it's definately different. Love the fuel mileage and hit up to 31 mph with 3 folks and gear in the chop without full throttle (~12 mph winds Saturday, and 15mph easily the previous Sunday. I can't wait for a nice day).

Still playing with how shallow I can run it while being VERY conservative.


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## Longbeard

Thanks Bryster. I bought the same boat you and have it basically setting crooked in the garage until I figure something out on the hitch. A trailer upgrade (brakes and swing away hitch) was available when purchasing, but I decided against it b/c it was almost another $1000. I called the trailer manf. to inquire about the swing away part to see if they would sell it to me. They told me that the trailer upgrade has a steel tongue allowing them to put it on. He recommended not using it, but I would think it would hold up okay. Keep an eye on it for sag and post back. I guess the other option is to make it removable and line the interior or exterior with more aluminum to provide stability if the swing away begins to stretch the aluminum.

As far as the boat goes, been pretty happy with it. Seems to run well, wouldn't go any less than the max 60hp though. Fishing 2 people is pretty comfortable, 4 is do-able but would get tight. I find the boat is very stable, a bit rough when riding but better than a flat boat. The fuel tank is small, but hasn't really effected me yet. Seems to really sip the fuel.

A few critisims - difficult to clean the floor where the molded pattern is. Basically have to scrub areas where some baits hit the boat with a hand brush and still not everything comes off. Also appears that it may stain with blood to a certain extent. I found a crack in the floor, it's not major, it's in the thin layer of whatever is molded and then applied to the floor. Dealer said it was an air pocket that wasn't removed when they applied the molded flooring. Supposed to be reparing in a few weeks. Aside from the floor issue, i've been pretty happy with the purchase.


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## cnoise

Thought I was going to take it out today, but looks like Sunday is the day. Can't wait to get it on saltwater. Bryster, did you buy a kit to flush after running on salt?


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## bryster

yep, I use the Quicksilver brand round ones with the wire that goes through the pickups. That is the one the mechanic who showed me the boat used, and the existing ones I had from a past boat didnt fit.

I ran it for 10-12 minutes each time. Cleanup was great using the Deck Brite. I finally got my TX numbers in this week so going to pick up the numbers from Academy and slap em on.

I also picked up a piece of white plastic off of ebay. I'm going to trim it to fit in the front of the center console and close it up. I've also got a deck access hatch to mount in there and going to make it a stash box for wallet and keys. I'll take pictures and show how it goes.

Do you only have the single gas tank? I've brought a 1 gallon emergency can with me but haven't needed it. I am considering a 3 gallon tank mounted in the back as a spare but just haven't made up my mind.

Don't forget to open the vent on the tank when you run. I forgot last time and turned around after a little bit and the tank was starting to collapse!


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## cnoise

Thanks for the info. I ended up buying a spare 6 gallon. Since I'm so new to this, I didn't want to be without. Went to Galveston today to find boat ramps. Think I will go out of the one on 61st. Had trouble finding others. Would like fish near Dana Cove (Galveston Island State Park). Any other suggestions for ramps?


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## jjtroutkiller

Pirates beach on the south shore of west bay.


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## Stern Saver

joebucko said:


> Where is the transducer located? I have had a hard time adjusting the transducer on my existing boat so instead of continuing to reposition it (more holes) I installed a transducer plate then built a sliding mechanism attached to the plate that allows me to move the transducer up or down while on the go to determine the optimal position.
> 
> Thanks again for the info and pics and good luck.


The beautiful thing about the Stern Saver transducer mounting system is that you can reposition your transducer on it as many times as you need to find the "sweet spot" without ever putting a single hole in your transom. The Stern Saver can be drilled and re-drilled multiple times. The cost of the Stern Saver is far less than patching holes or dealing with water infiltration damage in the transom down the road, and helps your boat retain its value.

Here is a video of how easy it is to install:


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## TXPIRATE

The easiest way to clean the decks is to get a spray bottle and mix it 50/50 with bleach when you get in. once you get to the car wash everything comes right off. It was what I did with my pathfinder. The deck on that boat was a nightmare!


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## txslamonice

I looked at the boat at bp yesterday, talked to a salesmen and hopefully can sign the final paperwork next week! It's a nice boat and suites my needs. It had the 60 mercury option..

sent while "working"


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## cnoise

Congrats on the new boat. I'm loving mine.


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## bryster

Stern Saver dude - that's what I used on mine. Easy to install and I dreaded drilling holes below the water line on my new boat!

For me, I had to bend the transducer mount a bit - the transom isn't 90 degrees to the sides of the boat, it is angled slightly. Don't know how to explain it but depth finder works at speed without problem.


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## redfish555

*nice boat*

nice boat my freind has one and i was impressed by how it took the chop but i find them wimpy because my friends 13 whaler holds up to a 1000 lbs that mako is very nice but the 1 ft difference in that model is weird because they cant hold the same weight or engine hp but really nice boats:walkingsm


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## Stern Saver

bryster-that's lookin' good! I get what you are saying about bending the bracket. Another way to compensate for the angle would be to stack washers under one side of the bracket. Anyways, I am glad it worked out for you and you are happy with the Stern Saver.


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## oarfish

Would be good to see reports on the Mako Pro Skiff 17 *tiller*.
So far I could not find any info and the closest dealer having it in stock is over 400 miles away. I was wondering the rough water ride in the tiller with one person versus the center console model. Generally I would think that the tiller will handle the chop better since the bow is up higher underway. But it is only a wild guess. Sitting in the stern has it inherent benefit of less bouncing.
Any opinions? Does anyone know about the tiller model?


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## racingdc9

Taking delivery of mine this coming Monday. Can't wait.


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## chesterspot

Howdy, I'm new to the forum but have been a lurker for a while. Lots of great info here.

@bryster - Have you used it to tube with the kids yet? This boat caught my eye as it has a lot of space and the inverted-v, and it's cheap. You say its rough in a chop, how rough is rough? I saw some video from onboard a CS 218 DLV and it looked bad. Mako has marketed this boat as not so skiff like in chop. I don't have plans for taking it out in weather but sometimes the fish bite better in the rain!


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## patwilson

Welcome to 2cool....



chesterspot said:


> Howdy, I'm new to the forum but have been a lurker for a while. Lots of great info here.
> 
> @bryster - Have you used it to tube with the kids yet? This boat caught my eye as it has a lot of space and the inverted-v, and it's cheap. You say its rough in a chop, how rough is rough? I saw some video from onboard a CS 218 DLV and it looked bad. Mako has marketed this boat as not so skiff like in chop. I don't have plans for taking it out in weather but sometimes the fish bite better in the rain!


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## joebucko

I put my Pro17 in the water for the 3rd time today. This time with three fishermen and it did GREAT. This is the easiest boat I have ever seen to get on plane. Its almost like it never comes off plane just sits flat to the water. Still breaking in the 60hp but our top speed with three men was 33mph. My prop is a 10 3/8" x 14" pitch aluminum which I am going to change to a 10 3/8" x 13" aluminum because my fastest WOT RPM is only 5400 and needs to be a little higher. This should give me a little more speed but more important it will allow the engine to run in the correct RPM range. I will keep the 14" as my spare. 
I am still surprised at the overall stability of the boat. Even with 3 guys actively casting the boat just sits there. Shallow water draft is probably 8"-9" with engine and trolling motor up.

I have not run it in serious chop yet but feel like it is going to be fine. Last week the wind was probably 15knots and it took it well while staying completely dry.


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## racingdc9

Joe: what speed are you getting at around 4500rpm? I get about 25-27mph depending on chop and two people in the boat.


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## joebucko

*Pro 17 Speed*

I believe I am getting about the same speed as you at 4500rpm, 25-28mph. I'll check it more closely next week. As I stated I am more concerned about the engine operating in the right RPM range so in order to bring the RPM up into the 5600-6000 range with Wide Open Throttle (WOT) I will change the prop and lower the pitch by 1" going to a 10 3/8" X 13" prop. After a discussion with the dealer I will be sticking with an aluminum prop for three reasons:
1. lower cost
2. Stainless is much less forgiving and it is possible to more easily damage the drive shaft/gearing instead of sacrificing an aluminum prop.
3. In engines this small there does not appear to be any significant performance improvement with stainless versus aluminum.

Finally, my gas mileage is pretty god. Again, still breaking the engine in so I am varying the throttle quite a bit but am still getting about 9 mpg.


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## mudmauler

Great thread! I am a pro skiff 17 owner and have installed a Sony Marine radio and I am now looking into putting on a power pole sportsman II. Does anybody have any or advice on making the right decision as far as how to mount it to the boat? I have spoken with my dealer and they tried to talk me into a stiffy type push/anchor pole. I have looked at the adapter brackets and they almost certainly will hit the transom tie down loop, so this method is out unless I can relocate the loop elsewhere. I am not sure if this will compromise the integrity of the transom. Dealer says they had too much trouble with another fellas boat to try and mount it on the transom directly. I would like to hear from somebody that has already mounted a power pole to their pro skiff. Thanks for any help.


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## Specsniper

mudmauler said:


> Great thread! I am a pro skiff 17 owner and have installed a Sony Marine radio and I am now looking into putting on a power pole sportsman II. Does anybody have any or advice on making the right decision as far as how to mount it to the boat? I have spoken with my dealer and they tried to talk me into a stiffy type push/anchor pole. I have looked at the adapter brackets and they almost certainly will hit the transom tie down loop, so this method is out unless I can relocate the loop elsewhere. I am not sure if this will compromise the integrity of the transom. Dealer says they had too much trouble with another fellas boat to try and mount it on the transom directly. I would like to hear from somebody that has already mounted a power pole to their pro skiff. Thanks for any help.


If you have a jack plate I'm fairly certain there is a power pole bracket that attaches to the jack plate. Might look into that option.


----------



## reel legs

I was looking to attach the transom brackets for the stiffy anchors on my mako 17 so I called the techs at bass pro that installed my jack plate and they recommended I get the brackets that attach to the jack plate. Haven't found any yet, though.


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## racingdc9

Reel legs, post some pics of that jack plate.


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## FlatsCatFL

hello all. first time poster to your texas site. 

i too am interested in the mako 17 pro skiff. when i googled the MP17S, this thread appeared and caught my attention. 

first of all i love the layout. the stability, draft and load capacity this platform offers is very appealing. dry storage seems to be on the skimpy side though and anchor storage problematic as well. admittedly, a 'wang anchor' or similar would probably be sufficient. the front deck lid does not seem to have a gasket, so i'm wondering how dry the front deck storage might really be. 

as for dry storage under the rear deck, are any of you using large tupperware containers or similar there?

this is a great thread on a worthy entry level shallow water craft. i hope it stays alive with continued updates from all owners. tight lines.

darrell in lake worth, fl


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## joebucko

*Mako Pro Skiff Storage*

Welcome to the forum FlatsCatFl. 
I have had my Pro17 for 6 weeks and have taken it out at least twice a week in all sorts of conditions. The engine is now fully broken in and I have made the changes I wanted to accomidate my fishing style. It is the most stable skiff type boat I have ever been in, it handles chop very well and is a VERY DRY ride. I bass fish which means pretty much constant casting and have fished three out of it very comfortably. The versatility is amazing, 2 casters on the bow with 1 on the stern or 1 on bow, 1 in middle and 1 on stern it doesn't seem to make much difference as the boat just sits there flat on the water.

Dry storage: The only real dry storage on the boat is the big cooler. the front hatch will hold a lot of stuff but it is not dry. I use the cooler and that holds anything and everything I want to be totally dry. I found these neat 1/2 size milk crates at Walmart that work great under the bow or stern for my fishing stuff(see pics). They measure 14" long X 10"wide X 10"high. I have two under the bow and one under the stern.

Horizontal Rod storage: I added a Boat Buckle foam rod carrier on the port side to hold my rods and Stickit Pin anchor while trailering. Under way the rods are in the console rod holders. I installed a piece of 3/4" pvc to hold the Stickit vertical on the console so I did not have to give up one of the console rod holders


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## racingdc9

Joe, which trolling motor do u have?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## FlatsCatFL

joebucko said:


> Welcome to the forum FlatsCatFl.
> I have had my Pro17 for 6 weeks and have taken it out at least twice a week in all sorts of conditions. The engine is now fully broken in and I have made the changes I wanted to accomidate my fishing style. It is the most stable skiff type boat I have ever been in, it handles chop very well and is a VERY DRY ride. I bass fish which means pretty much constant casting and have fished three out of it very comfortably. The versatility is amazing, 2 casters on the bow with 1 on the stern or 1 on bow, 1 in middle and 1 on stern it doesn't seem to make much difference as the boat just sits there flat on the water.
> 
> Dry storage: The only real dry storage on the boat is the big cooler. the front hatch will hold a lot of stuff but it is not dry. I use the cooler and that holds anything and everything I want to be totally dry. I found these neat 1/2 size milk crates at Walmart that work great under the bow or stern for my fishing stuff(see pics). They measure 14" long X 10"wide X 10"high. I have two under the bow and one under the stern.
> 
> Horizontal Rod storage: I added a Boat Buckle foam rod carrier on the port side to hold my rods and Stickit Pin anchor while trailering. Under way the rods are in the console rod holders. I installed a piece of 3/4" pvc to hold the Stickit vertical on the console so I did not have to give up one of the console rod holders


thanks JOEBUCKO for the welcome and informative reply. positive real world comments such as yours are priceless when someone is trying to make a buying decision.

if you use your cooler for dry storage, what are you using for cold drinks etc.? i like the horizontal gunnel racks and stickit pin storage improv too.


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## joebucko

*Mako Pro Skiff Trolling Motor*

I have a Motor Guide 55# thrust hand controlled varimax with 45" shaft. It does a very nice job on a boat this size. The 45" shaft is long enough for even the heaviest chop. When/if this motor dies I will probably replace it with a Minn Kota Terrova iPilot.

The cooler is very large and I never need that much cold storage. Most of the time I don't even carry cold drinks but when I do I have a small cooler I place on the floor aft of the cooler. It does not get in the way as I always fish from the rear platform. Even if three were fishing it would still be out of the way.

Two additional changes I made were:
Add a folding stainless steel cleat in the center of the bow on the front. When I anchor I like to be able to tie off so that the boat is centered and I could not do that with the side mounted cleats.

I replaced the stern handle/step with a small telescoping boarding ladder. At my advanced age the thought of hauling my butt over the stern in an emergency just did not appeal to me.

Now a question for existing Pro Skiff owners: Has anyone figured out how to fish/run a wire from the console to the bow? I am currently powering my front fishfinder with a small 12v/8ahr battery but would like to run it off the existing circuit where I have my console GPS/FF.


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## Trout123

*Mako Boat*

I am seriously considering this boat for me and my family. I am a little concerned about the size of the boat. My kids are small (4 & 6) so I think it will be fine. Most of my fishing will be bay fishing. One of the main reasons for considering this boat is that it will fit in my garage with the swing away tongue and of course the price is a plus also. Any input is greatly appreciated...


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## joebucko

*Mako Boat*

This is a very nice fishing boat for lakes, bays or flats and I know that some of the guys also pull tubes etc. I don't have small children but there are a couple of things that would concern me.

1. The seating is very limited. Fine for as many as 3 adults (two behind the console and one on the live well) but small children might have a problem.
2. Along with limited seating there are limited handholds. The skipper has the wheel, live well seating has secure handholds and a person seated on the cooler can use the console bar but somebody seated on the stern or bow platform doesn't have much to hold on to and sitting on the floor would be out of the question.
3. The sides are pretty low and there are no railings. Again for adult fisherpersons that is an advantage but small children might run into trouble.

My recommendation would be to try and get a test ride with a local owner so you can judge the roominess and exactly where your children would be located in the boat when the inevitable happens and you have to plow through some serious chop. Under rough conditions you are going to have your hands full of wheel and throttle so you won't be able to assist them very much.


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## FlatsCatFL

joebucko said:


> I have a Motor Guide 55# thrust hand controlled varimax with 45" shaft. It does a very nice job on a boat this size. The 45" shaft is long enough for even the heaviest chop. When/if this motor dies I will probably replace it with a Minn Kota Terrova iPilot.
> 
> The cooler is very large and I never need that much cold storage. Most of the time I don't even carry cold drinks but when I do I have a small cooler I place on the floor aft of the cooler. It does not get in the way as I always fish from the rear platform. Even if three were fishing it would still be out of the way.
> 
> Two additional changes I made were:
> Add a folding stainless steel cleat in the center of the bow on the front. When I anchor I like to be able to tie off so that the boat is centered and I could not do that with the side mounted cleats.
> 
> I replaced the stern handle/step with a small telescoping boarding ladder. At my advanced age the thought of hauling my butt over the stern in an emergency just did not appeal to me.
> 
> Now a question for existing Pro Skiff owners: Has anyone figured out how to fish/run a wire from the console to the bow? I am currently powering my front fishfinder with a small 12v/8ahr battery but would like to run it off the existing circuit where I have my console GPS/FF.


JOEBUCKO - i love the bow lay down cleat, great addition. where did you pick it up?

as far as the wiring for the bow trolling motor, i would check with the BP shop. when you 'build your own' there's a radio button to add a trolling motor, so i'm guessing BP knows how to get wiring up there.


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## FlatsCatFL

i'm also interested in adding a cmc jp when the time comes. REEL LEGS what's the latest on your jp install. did you have to go to hydraulic steering?


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## yellowskeeter

These skiffs are really cool! Glad to see this post.


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## joebucko

I got the bow cleat on Ebay. Description is Marine Folding Cleat with Studs (6 1/2") and the vendor is: baronusallcbarongroup. It is a very nicely made stainless steel cleat.

Tracker installed my existing Trolling Motor. They mounted the battery under the front deck on the starboard side then ran the wiring neatly through the front wall, across the bow and terminated in a good plug on the deck next to the TM. I asked my local BassPro about running a 16ga wire from the bow to the console but they did not actually have a Pro17 in stock and it was obvious they had never done it. The term 'fish it' was used but I had already tried to 'fish it' several times with no success. 
I think there should be some sort of opening in the bottom of the boat to allow water to drain from the front of the boat to the bilge but I have not been able to find it.


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## Eat Sleep Fish

My Dad and I bought a Mako Pro Skiff 16' this summer and its been great. I absolutely love the boat and its a fishing machine I cant wait to get a trolling motor on it, its very easy to maneuver and handle. Rides great and handles chop nice. Ours has a 40hp on it and its perfect. For 2 people the boat is great even 3 is pretty easy to manage but space can be an issue if your wanting to take a group out and if people are wanting to move around a lot. For what my Dad and I wanted to use it for its perfect, I wanted to fish and take my buddies and girlfriend out fishing or cruising and he wanted to hit the lake and bay early to enjoy the weather and being on the water as did I so I have no complaints really, sometimes I wish had more room to take more people but it was in our budget and its perfect for what we needed right now. Its a great little boat and I have enjoyed it a lot and continue to. We were considering a bigger Mako around 21' or the Boston Whaler Montauk but the prices were just getting to far out there so Paul at the dealer said let me show you this boat in the back I think you'll like it and sure enough it was the Mako and at first I wasn't buying into the boat or really impressed till I looked it over and got on it and pictured myself fishing and cruising then I was sold haha, I thought about what it would be used for and showed it to my Dad as well and sure enough it ended up being the perfect little boat for us to start in. Slowly but surely we are going to add accessories and what not. As for now its got 4 flush mount rod holders 2 on front and 2 on back. If your skeptical or curious about the boat I would contact your local boat dealer and see if you can take a test ride, we purchased ours from Marine Max of NASA 1 and the guys were great, Dads a long time friend of one of the brokers and they were very helpful and friendly throughout, they even took our bass boat in on a trade towards our new boat.

Here she is


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## racingdc9

Eat sleep fish, can u post some pictures of your flush mount rod holders?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## FlatsCatFL

joebucko said:


> I got the bow cleat on Ebay. Description is Marine Folding Cleat with Studs (6 1/2") and the vendor is: baronusallcbarongroup. It is a very nicely made stainless steel cleat.
> 
> Tracker installed my existing Trolling Motor. They mounted the battery under the front deck on the starboard side then ran the wiring neatly through the front wall, across the bow and terminated in a good plug on the deck next to the TM. I asked my local BassPro about running a 16ga wire from the bow to the console but they did not actually have a Pro17 in stock and it was obvious they had never done it. The term 'fish it' was used but I had already tried to 'fish it' several times with no success.
> I think there should be some sort of opening in the bottom of the boat to allow water to drain from the front of the boat to the bilge but I have not been able to find it.


joebucko- maybe a call to mako technical support, engineering etc. might shed some light on the TM wiring to bow. this is an issue every pro 17 skiff owner would like to know, even me and I'm a wanna be owner. lol.

thanks for the bow cleat tip, def on my list when the time comes.


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## darrenlake

*Mako 17 CC cracks in deck and gunwale*

I'm glad to have found this forum with some other Mako CC Skiff owners.
I purchased the 17 CC Skiff last spring and used it through the summer. As others have stated, I love the boat. For a certain type of fisherman, this boat is really nice and I agree with most of the feedback I read here.

Unfortunately, I'm having an issue with some cracks and a little warping on the outside hull - just one side. The cracks are mostly on the deck (not the platforms, but the main deck at console level), but also one on the gunwale. I purchased the boat at Bass Pro and took it back there a few weeks ago and the boat was taken to a fiberglass shop to repair the cracks - they are covering the problem, so I have no complaint with BPS response to the issue.

I've posted pics and some more details on another forum in an attempt to get some feedback from other boat owners and those with more knowledge of fiberglass boats
http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating...berglass-issues-cracks-warps.html#post5007843

I read one post on this forum about someone who had cracks at purchase time. Has anyone else had any issues like this? I trying to find out if this is an isolated issue or if there is a more general problem with this boat.

I'm torn because I love the boat but fear ongoing issues with cracking.


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## joebucko

*Mako 17 cc cracks in the deck*

Welcome Darrenlake.

I have a few surface/gelcoat cracks on the bow but nothing structural so I haven't done anything about them.

From your picture it looks like you have a Minn Kota Terrova or Powerdrive trolling motor on the bow. Which one and how do you like it? I have a Motorguide varimax that came on my boat and it has worked out nicely but I really want a Terrova iPilot when this one dies.


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## darrenlake

joebucko said:


> Welcome Darrenlake.
> 
> I have a few surface/gelcoat cracks on the bow but nothing structural so I haven't done anything about them.
> 
> From your picture it looks like you have a Minn Kota Terrova or Powerdrive trolling motor on the bow. Which one and how do you like it? I have a Motorguide varimax that came on my boat and it has worked out nicely but I really want a Terrova iPilot when this one dies.


I'm in western NY, so all fresh water.
I have a MotorGuide wireless trolling motor, 12V, 48" shaft, 55lb thrust. 
http://www.basspro.com/MotorGuide-Wireless-Series-Trolling-Motors/product/74646/
I also purchased the wireless key fob that I can clip on which is nice when you want to jump off the deck briefly. I've been very happy with the wireless trolling motor. I went back and forth between various motors based on wireless or not, hand or foot control. In the end I like what I got. It comes with a wireless foot pedal that I can move around the deck platform very easily. It takes a little getting used to the foot pedal controls but once I got comfortable with it I was fishing and controlling the boat without much thought.

BTW: where did you get the ladder that you added to the back? Did you get to use the existing holes for the handle? It looks like you did. If so, then I assume that the only new holes were at the bottom of the ladder. This existing transom step was my one complaint - it is pretty much useless. You can step on the motor though and hoist yourself up.


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## joebucko

*Mako Pro skiff ladder*

I got the ladder and a great folding cleat for the bow from a vendor on ebay. baronusallcbarongroup . I wanted a centered bow cleat for anchoring and this worked out great. 
I looked a long time for a suitable ladder and finally decided on this telescoping unit. It is actually made to mount flush to the transom with bolts going through the transom. After I got it I discovered that the transom coupled with the inside liner is almost 8" thick so mounting the top bolts was going to be a problem. I finally figured out that I could make L shaped brackets from some 3/16" aluminum flatstock I had and mount the ladder to those then bolt those through the deck rail. The deck holes are 5" on center. My boat did not have the handle so I don't know what that spacing is but I would think that at least one of the holes from the existing handle should line up. The bottom of the ladder is secured with two #12 or #14 stainless steel screws into the transom sealed with a little 3M 5200.


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## darrenlake

joebucko said:


> I got the ladder and a great folding cleat for the bow from a vendor on ebay. baronusallcbarongroup . I wanted a centered bow cleat for anchoring and this worked out great.
> I looked a long time for a suitable ladder and finally decided on this telescoping unit. It is actually made to mount flush to the transom with bolts going through the transom. After I got it I discovered that the transom coupled with the inside liner is almost 8" thick so mounting the top bolts was going to be a problem. I finally figured out that I could make L shaped brackets from some 3/16" aluminum flatstock I had and mount the ladder to those then bolt those through the deck rail. The deck holes are 5" on center. My boat did not have the handle so I don't know what that spacing is but I would think that at least one of the holes from the existing handle should line up. The bottom of the ladder is secured with two #12 or #14 stainless steel screws into the transom sealed with a little 3M 5200.


Nice job. That gives me something to work with. 
I looked at a bunch of portable gunwale ladders but the problem with most of them is the supports that go against the hull. Many of the supports are lower than the bottom of the boat - the hull in this skiff is rather shallow compared to v-hull boats. Those with supports that worked were not long enough to hit the hull and keep the ladder vertical since the top of the gunwale sticks out quite a distance from the side of the hull. Also, I would need to carry the gunwale ladder inside the boat when not in use and space is at a premium. 
Your ladder looks like a great solution, so I'll pursue something along this line. 
Thanks for the pictures.


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## joebucko

When you are going slow the bottom of this ladder does sit below the waterline but at any speed at all it is completely out of the water. You can see the complete dimensions at the ebay sellers listing.


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## Eat Sleep Fish

racingdc9 said:


> Eat sleep fish, can u post some pictures of your flush mount rod holders?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm gonna try and get some pictures this weekend.


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## Jeffjeeptj

I'm glad to see all the photos and discussion about the modifications. I have a Pro 17 Tiller with the 30HP. Wife and I wanted a very simple boat, and that is what we got. 1 moving part, the motor. No wires except for the 12V from the motor to the battery. No front platform, no factory cooler, no live well, no nav lights.
Still deciding on what to do for add-ons. I'll post a picture later; I needed navigation lights, as the boat came with none. I bought an Attwood LED bow and LED stern light. I mounted the bow to a piece of 2X8 that I tape to the bow when I need it. I run a piece of extension cord along the starboard side, across the stern floor to the battery. I put two bolts thru the battery case with a fuse so I could hook up a bilge pump and the lights. I use alligator clips for the bow and stern light to wing nuts on the batt case. The stern light is plugged into an Attwood bracket/connector that I bolted inside a 5 gallon bucket. This bucket has my flare kit, registration, piece of tie up line, fire extiinguisher, and two fenders in it. It has plenty of weight to keep the light upright. The stern light also connects via the alligator clips. Mounted in the bucket, it meets the required height about the bow light. When I know I am only going out in daylight hours, the lights stay home, not exposed to the elements. The bucket is quick in and out when trailering. Everything in one place.
I do like the cleat and ladder that joe did.


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## Jeffjeeptj

Photos for above post. Simple, but it works.
Sorry for sideways photos. iphone is smarter than me, can't seem to find a way to rotate.


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## FlatsCatFL

jeffjeeptj,

sometimes simpler is just better. whatever floats your boat.....lol.

glad you posted, i am strongly considering the 17 pro cc w/ the 60. for the last couple of years i have been staring at micro skiffs, but have gradually realized i would like a vessel with more utility and load capacity.

i wish the thread starter(s) and others would continue updating their experiences. if this mako model holds up from serious use and the pricing stays the same, i think it will gradually become the basic go to skiff for a lot of entry level boaters.


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## texasislandboy

One thing is that you dont see many of these up for sale used.... I would like to take one for a spin with a jack plate on it to see what it can do


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## joebucko

I bought my Pro17 cc a few months ago and have given it a pretty good work out. It has probably been on the water 15-20 times with 1, 2 and 3 fishermen. The guys I fish with all have boats and to a man they have been impressed with the boat's stability, roominess and general utility. So far it has done everything I need and then some. Shallow water fishing no problem(it really will float in 8" of water), handling heavy chop no problem, extremely dry ride, almost instant on plane. It is just very different from all the other boats I am used to. 
It is very plain and simple. Heck the only gauge on the boat is an RPM gauge add the 4 switches and that is as complicated as it gets. It is no speed demon as the top speed you are going to get is about 35mph WOT with a 60hp. But it sips gas, looks good and is a real pleasure to fish from. I would not be surprised to see the other major skiff makers clone this hull pretty soon because the hull is the key to the stability and gentle dry ride.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

joebucko,

that's what i'm talking about! Real world feedback. thanks for that post. you mentioned an 8" draft, is that loaded with your fishing buddies?

Regarding a jack plate: my local BPS rep said a hydraulic exchange would most likely be needed as the mechanical would not have enough free play. So figure @ $600.00 for a 'baystar' hydraulic + labor and cost of a jack plate of choice.

Keep the posts coming>>>>>>>


----------



## racingdc9

Flatscat: the 8" draft will have to be with motor trimmed up and poling and maybe trolling motor(maybe joebuck can chime in). The gas tank is 6.6 gallons. I recommend getting the extra tank as an option. We made it from Louie's bait camp at Bayou vista to seawolf park and to Selma and back to launch area on one tank of gas going 25-28mph (4500-5000rpm)with 2 people in boat(including me) and the water was moderately choppy. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## joebucko

I have the 60hp Mercury 4stroke and a trolling motor. The 8" float is as racingdc9 suggests with the motor trimmed, trolling motor out of the water and polling. I have my boat loaded down with about as much extra stuff as you can carry on the boat:
Trolling motor + battery
on-board charger
anchor+rope
fishing equipment
extra propeller
small tool box
extra fuel tank
starting battery
totaled I estimate this stuff adds about 250 lbs to the boat.
Add two fishermen and you get an additional 400 lbs (650 in total).

With this load I can do 34mph at WOT=6000rpm. I cruise at 25-28mph @ 4500 rpm. I am running a 10.375"diameter X 13"pitch aluminum Mercury prop. The prop that came on my boat was a Mercury aluminum 10.375 X 14" pitch and pushed me along at about the same speeds but the RPM was a bit low (WOT = 5500prm).
I carry two 6.6gal fuel tanks but my typical run is only about 20 miles where I will burn about 2.5 gallons of gas. 

When I have 3 adult fishermen my top speed is probably 32mph but everything else is about the same (stabillity, ride, fuel economy).

I don't anticipate doing a jack plate but am very curious to hear how they really work and how they affect overall performance.


----------



## Jeffjeeptj

My tiller 30HP tops out at about 24 MPH, wide open and about 700 pounds in the boat. The 24 is based on the SeaTow GPS on the iphone. I have found I get a porpoise if I am alone, sitting in the rear seat unless I really trim the motor down. Then I get a large spray at the transom, but it misses the motor and does not splash back into the boat. Overall the boat is amazingly dry, ad rough water friendly. Not as fast as my Whaler 15 w/70, but much smoother. I can travel at a faster speed in the Mako with less pounding.

WTB - a factory grab handle like the one on the rear of the boat. I assume someone has removed theirs. I will mount it on the starboard side, so I can strap the motor into a central position when trailering. Right now the pilot steering tab does not tighten up enough. I really do not want to put that load on the transom anyway.

joebucko- please post a picture or two of your trailer guides. Are they factory or other? I will be putting some on. I talked with Rolco, they cannot sell direct. I have not seen a set of factory guides in person. Reportedly they are made out of aluminum.

Thanks to all.


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## joebucko

My trailer guides came with my boat so I don't know if they were put on at the factory or dealer. They don't look any different than the ones I see on my friends boats. Some sort of square galvanized tube bent at almost a 90deg angle and bolted to the frame of the trailer with brackets/U bolts. 

The one thing that is a little different than my friends is there are no rollers or pads on the guides. They just use schedule 40 or 80 white pvc (probably 2") with end caps and just slide them over the square galvanized tube. The pvc pipes roll around the upright square tube when I launch or load. If they ever get damaged I can just buy another 10ft piece of pvc and replace them.


----------



## joebucko

After a closer look at my trailer guides they do appear to be from the factory. It is an all aluminum trailer and these guides are made from 1.5" square aluminum tube mounted to the trailer with special brackets. The PVC is 2.5" inside diameter.


----------



## bryster

Joe those look like the same ones I got, it was a factory option. I've hit em pretty hard on windy days and haven't done any damage 

I've had mine in the water 13 times now, 7 fishing in Galveston with 6 east bay and one west bay near san Luis pass. 6 times I've had it in fresh water cruising, pulling tubes and once with skis. 

The most gas I've burned in one trip is a little less than 4 gallons. It's no 70mph beast but runs fine and as others mentioned its a dry ride.

I've yet to get a trolling motor but I think it's my next purchase. Without troller, push pole, or jack plate the skinniest I've gotten is 1.2 feet with the motor trimmed and running. Putting around the sand bars the first time near San Luis got me a little anxious but we got outta there without having to jump out and push, haha.

My favorite thing about the boat is how stable it is and how you have so much room on the front deck. At the County Park boat ramp area we threw the cast net off the front and it was as stable as can be. 

I also like how easy it is to load and unload. I find it kind of odd the front roller on the trailer is more for a V hull than a flat front and have thought about changing it out somehow, or at least putting some grippy tape like keel guard where it touches the hull.

I'm waiting on those pictures for the flush mount rod holders - I've got a pair but haven't decided where to put them.


----------



## Bily Lovec

Great thread guys !

Ive been kicking around this rig, Im going shopping soon for one.

now the age old questions...

when is my best deal, now... during the boat show.... or after the boat show...

where would be the best place to buy in Houston area ?

if we're only talking a few hundred bucks, its not worth waiting to me...


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## joebucko

I bought my boat from an independent Tracker dealer in Missouri. I tried working with my local BassPro dealer here (DFW) but they were unable to vary from the set price. Apparently they have no ability to negotiate at all. I'd suggest you try an independent Tracker dealer but realize that Mako is selling all of the Pro17s they can make. 
Good luck


----------



## racingdc9

Bryster, where do u launch in eastbay? We were on a guided fishing trip yesterday in eastbay and guide told me we can launch at rollover pass. Rather then launch at TCD like we did yesterday. Our next purchase is going to be trolling motor too(can cover more ground).

I bought mine at Marine max in seabrook. They were the only ones that got the 17' in stock before BPS did. Yep, no discount. This time if yr bps will have their boat clearance. Like the 16' had like $500-$1000 off but that's on 2012 models. Giving how they sell the 17's a lot more. It's going to be hard to get any discount on it. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## coolskunk

Thought I would share I too am an owner of the pro skiff 17 running out of southwest florida. Had it since spring with 60 merc, and love it. The reports here are right on, dry for its size, stable as a rock, great in the shallows and handles chop surprisingly well. Have an iPro mounted bow motor and I think the fit and finish is quite good for the price. After a ride in one, the decision for it over the carolina skiff for me was a no brainer. She sips fuel too. Did get caught out in some big wind and chop in Charlotte Harbor and while she pounded me pretty good, was still able to get back through it all no problem just a little effort. I will say that in that kind of chop you have to have some speed otherwise the bow acts like a spoon and carries water over the top, but this was in more extreme conditions then I would normally go out in. Anyway, been using it and catching fish and having a blast.....would love to have a self bailing hull when stuck in those conditions....


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## TXPIRATE

I was looking at them the other day, and it looks like you could attach one of those check drains with the ping pong ball in them to the transom. Then it would be self bailing. I would have to see one sitting in the water though.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

coolskunk, thanks for the feedback. my favorite fishing area is around the chokoloskee area. do you think the 'pro 17' is 'skinny' enough to skip the shallows there?


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## coolskunk

flatscatFL don't know, haven't fished that area. This is my second year here full time. Been running out of burnt store marina where I live. Run some skinny stuff up there. Seems like I an navigate less than 8 inches standing on the bow with the trolling motor. Just really like the flexibility of the pro skiff 17. Had bigger 19 mako, 20 sport craft, chris craft cabin cruiser and a slew of kayaks...but right now this is one is the most fun. Stores in the garage with a folding trailer hitch, easy to trailer, launch and load one person. I even like that the console of molded and not fiberglass just a lot of maintanece free stuff. I use a stick pole instead of investing in a $1500 anchor pole and it works simply and holds awesome. Haven't seen and fiberglass cracks anywhere and I have had her out is some snot too.

Question....is anyone running a jack plate and what is the advantage on this boat. I seem to trim her out and skip over the skinny stuff pretty good. Just wondering....


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## FlatsCatFL

coolskunk, thanks for the info on the skinny. 

i too am interested about jack plate applications. no one as yet has chimed in to much on the subject. the BP rep. i spoke with about it said the mechanical steering was the biggest drawback - not enough 'play' in that setup for the vertical movement a JP has - that a hydraulic unit would be needed.


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## Jeffjeeptj

I used to own a 15 Whaler. Whaler did, and still do, publish a drawing showing where all the backing pieces in the hull are located. The idea is so accessories/stuff can be attached to something other than gelcoat.
I called Mako/Tracker and tried to get one of these. I even got past the CS lady and talked to a guy involved with production. I was basically told that there were no backing pieces unless the factory already has something screwed there.
I was asking about attaching a bimini, a second gas tank under my forward seat, and even an additional handle on the transom so I could strap my tiller motor in two directions to keep it from flopping from side to side when trailering.

Joe, thanks for the pictures of the guides.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*Trolling motor question update*



joebucko said:


> I have a Motor Guide 55# thrust hand controlled varimax with 45" shaft. It does a very nice job on a boat this size. The 45" shaft is long enough for even the heaviest chop. When/if this motor dies I will probably replace it with a Minn Kota Terrova iPilot.
> 
> The cooler is very large and I never need that much cold storage. Most of the time I don't even carry cold drinks but when I do I have a small cooler I place on the floor aft of the cooler. It does not get in the way as I always fish from the rear platform. Even if three were fishing it would still be out of the way.
> 
> Two additional changes I made were:
> Add a folding stainless steel cleat in the center of the bow on the front. When I anchor I like to be able to tie off so that the boat is centered and I could not do that with the side mounted cleats.
> 
> I replaced the stern handle/step with a small telescoping boarding ladder. At my advanced age the thought of hauling my butt over the stern in an emergency just did not appeal to me.
> 
> Now a question for existing Pro Skiff owners: Has anyone figured out how to fish/run a wire from the console to the bow? I am currently powering my front fishfinder with a small 12v/8ahr battery but would like to run it off the existing circuit where I have my console GPS/FF.


Hey Joebucko, I was in BPS yesterday chatting up a Tracker sales rep. @ getting trolling motor wiring thru hull to front of boat. He said there was a tube to the front, that's how the tracker service guys get it done. Did you ever find one? I know you said you tried to 'fish' wire to the front with mo success a while back.


----------



## joebucko

I have not been able to find any tube running from the console to the bow. If you find out how/where to access this tube I'd appreciate knowing that information.


----------



## joebucko

*Wiring to bow of Mako Pro17 cc*

I couldn't find a way to fish a wire from the console to the bow so I contacted Mako and here is their reply:

Unfortunately, there is no dedicated rigging chase from the console forward. Although the center of the boat, beneath the deck and forward of the console, would permit running wiring, the tolerances up front by the "eyebrow" probably wouldn't allow the wiring to get to the forward casting deck. The fish finder could be powered by the trolling motor battery provided it's a 12V system. Not an ideal set-up, but one that would address the wiring issue. Another alternative might be to run wiring beneath the rub rail insert from the stern to the bow. Other manufacturer's have been known to run navigation light wiring in this manner due to accessibility issues.

I still believe there must be a way to get a wire under the floor to the bow so I will continue to pursue it. I don't want to run a wire under my rub rail.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

well joebucko, that is sad news. that info means the BPS sales rep was BS'n me unless their rigging guys know the secret route. if Mako offers a trolling motor option during 'build this boat' on their website, there must be a way to hide the wiring through the hull cavity.


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## joebucko

*Trolling Motor Install on Mako Pro Skiff CC*

The standard trolling motor install is done entirely on and under the front deck. In my case they installed the motor on the port side with the deep cycle battery under the deck on the starboard side. The wiring is run through the wall under the front deck then across the nose of the bow terminating in a TM plug on the deck next to the motor.

This works out well because it balances the weight nicely and everything is tucked away. I did install a Guest Dual Battery charger on the wall of the front deck to recharge the TM battery but in order to connect it to my starting battery in the stern I had to make up an extension cord that runs along the floor from the charger to the rear battery. When I am not charging I simply coil up the cord and stow it behind the TM battery case under the front deck.


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## FlatsCatFL

Got it now, thanks for the TM install clarification.


----------



## bryster

Thanks for the pictures, that helps me too!
I like the stake out stick mounting also . I made my own out of PVC reinforced with smaller PVC and am trying to find a good place to mount it. 

Does anyone have pics of rod holders mounted up front? I have flush mounted holders but not sure exactly where I want to drill the holes, or whether I just go with bow mounted holders


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## joebucko

When I am going to use my Stickit I keep it mounted in the vertical position you see at my console. The location I picked is pretty much dead space where I drilled a hole in the tool tray and mounted a short piece of PVC. When I am not using the Stickit I keep it mounted in my horizontal Boat Buckle rod holder. I am also interested in some flush mounted rod holders but haven't seen anyone who has actually drilled holes in their deck for them yet.


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## FlatsCatFL

reel legs said:


> I was looking to attach the transom brackets for the stiffy anchors on my mako 17 so I called the techs at bass pro that installed my jack plate and they recommended I get the brackets that attach to the jack plate. Haven't found any yet, though.


yo, reel legs.

you have a jack plate right? what's the latest on the performance of having said jack plate. inquiring minds want to know...........


----------



## FlatsCatFL

joebucko said:


> When I am going to use my Stickit I keep it mounted in the vertical position you see at my console. The location I picked is pretty much dead space where I drilled a hole in the tool tray and mounted a short piece of PVC. When I am not using the Stickit I keep it mounted in my horizontal Boat Buckle rod holder. I am also interested in some flush mounted rod holders but haven't seen anyone who has actually drilled holes in their deck for them yet.


joebucko, do you attach the boat buckle rod holders somewhere on the inside?


----------



## joebucko

The Boat Buckle rod holders are just screwed to the side of the boat. I like the Boat Buckle design because they are soft and very low profile. I usually have three bait casters, 1 spinning rod and the Stickit anchor pin stowed there while trailering(5 items). The holder at the rear of the boat is mounted just in front of the stern deck and the ends of the rods and Stickit actually stick back under the stern deck.


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## FlatsCatFL

joebucko said:


> The Boat Buckle rod holders are just screwed to the side of the boat. I like the Boat Buckle design because they are soft and very low profile. I usually have three bait casters, 1 spinning rod and the Stickit anchor pin stowed there while trailering(5 items). The holder at the rear of the boat is mounted just in front of the stern deck and the ends of the rods and Stickit actually stick back under the stern deck.


Thanks again for the info. Really enjoying this thread.


----------



## cedar trout

Inside info from Tracker Marine says they might manufacture a 20ft


----------



## Whoopin It Up!

*Mako 21 lts*



cedar trout said:


> Inside info from Tracker Marine says they might manufacture a 20ft


Just received in my mail, the Bass Pro Shops, Premium Fishing Tackle Master Catalog 2013. Hot off the press. In it, on page 29 "Coming Soon ... MAKO 21 LTS"

This looks interesting. The MAKO 18 LTS has been out a few years...this is most likely the same, just on a bigger platform.

I like the MAKO (I own a Tran Sport Baby Cat). The Mako 21 LTS will be a hit (my predict) because the pricing will be affordable.


----------



## darrenlake

darrenlake said:


> I'm glad to have found this forum with some other Mako CC Skiff owners.
> I purchased the 17 CC Skiff last spring and used it through the summer. As others have stated, I love the boat. For a certain type of fisherman, this boat is really nice and I agree with most of the feedback I read here.
> 
> Unfortunately, I'm having an issue with some cracks and a little warping on the outside hull - just one side. The cracks are mostly on the deck (not the platforms, but the main deck at console level), but also one on the gunwale. I purchased the boat at Bass Pro and took it back there a few weeks ago and the boat was taken to a fiberglass shop to repair the cracks - they are covering the problem, so I have no complaint with BPS response to the issue.
> 
> I've posted pics and some more details on another forum in an attempt to get some feedback from other boat owners and those with more knowledge of fiberglass boats
> http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating...berglass-issues-cracks-warps.html#post5007843
> 
> I read one post on this forum about someone who had cracks at purchase time. Has anyone else had any issues like this? I trying to find out if this is an isolated issue or if there is a more general problem with this boat.
> 
> I'm torn because I love the boat but fear ongoing issues with cracking.


As an update to this post, Make\o is giving me a new hull. Good to see them stand behind the product.


----------



## bryster

darrenlake - Thats great to know they stand behind it! I know a lot of people knock the newer Makos, but it was pretty much the exact boat I was looking for.

Has anyone done the 30hr or 100hr service yet? Curious what the total cost was - it's pretty close to time for me.


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## racingdc9

I recently got mine back from BPS from a crack repair on the gunwale. It was covered under warranty.


----------



## darrenlake

racingdc9 said:


> I recently got mine back from BPS from a crack repair on the gunwale. It was covered under warranty.


Starting to wonder about the cracks. Some people say it is normal, but I don't think it is normal on boats < 1 year old. I was hoping that mine would be an isolated event but it appears that some other people have both floor and gunwale cracks.


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## joebucko

*Minn Kota Terrova iPilot installed*

My wife bought me a Minn Kota Terrova iPilot for my birthday and I finally got it installed. Have had it out twice learning to use it. Its a sad day when your trolling motor is smarter than you are but that is the age we live in. Really awesome product and does everything they advertise. The install is a bit tricky because it sits so far forward on the deck. I could not use the newer style quick release bracket with the 'puck' so I went with the older style aluminum sliding plate. Its a very solid mount but I added an additional 1/4" aluminum plate so I could get more bolts through deck spread over a larger area. Can't wait for the Spring warm up to really use this beast.


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## FlatsCatFL

very nice, JB


----------



## texasislandboy

a guy down my channel has a nice pro skiff with a jackplate and trolling motor. I would like to see how it runs sometime. I need to talk to him next time I see him.


----------



## reel legs

Gentleman, sorry I have not kept up with this forum but I have been too busy fishing/preparing my house for our new baby girl/transitioning into a new job/ no internet access. Alright, down to business. 
**WARNING THIS MAY BE LONG!** 

I have a hydraulic atlas micro jack installed on my pro skiff (60 hp outboard). I installed it because the lower laguna madre bays can get pretty low, and without a tunnel hull..I wanted to give myself the biggest chance at fishing shallow over sands and soft mud. Before installing the jack, my skiff would suffer to plane in 1 1/2' - 2' areas. It wasn't the depth that was the problem, it was the SEA GRASS that would continuously stall the prop and just cause headaches. After seeking advice from experienced boaters, the consensus was to trade in my skiff for a tunnel hull and stop wasting my time. However, I have a great attachment to my first boat and decided to (respectfully) say 'screw them I'm gonna try it anyway'. I purchased this boat to LEARN, not to bust my wallet. That's what college was for. But I digress... Bass Pro installed my atlas jack in 2 days time and I also attached a hydrofoil (figured it wouldn't hurt). Well, I'm pleased to say that I have been able to get in and out of water from arroyo colorado and south padre island (including south bay). Now, even though I have gone into South Bay I've never polled or drifted into less than half a foot. I do not know what performance I have gained or lost with the addition of the foil since I installed it the same time as the jack but I must say the resistance in steering has gone up a bit after speeds of 20+ mph. (I'm guessing it's the drag being picked up from the foil so I always raise the outboard so the foil is skimming the surface. I have heard horror stories with cavitation plates sitting below the surface and causing damage to transoms). Skiff does not skid in turns with the plate and stability/gas remains unchanged. RPM's increase a bit more to reach the same speeds...after installing and cruising with the jack I'm hitting 4 rpm to reach 28 -30mph. All in all, I love my first boat, glad I installed the jack. I'm not scarring up the bays from mowing grass and have not run aground once. A bit of advice though, our skiffs are NOT tunnel hulls nor do they expensive IBIS boats. Don't think that installing a jack will get you planing in 2 inches of water. Common sense goes a long way. Hope this helps a bit and sorry for ranting so much, it's just been a while. Good luck!


----------



## Jonc

*Mako pro skiff guys...*

Hey guys...

new member, new boat. Just wanted to thank all of you guys for the comments, posts, insights, etc. regarding the mako pro skiff. Actually just bought one yesterday and if not for this site I could have possibly missed out on a what seems to be a perfect boat for my fishing needs.

Being from northern Indiana there are virtually no center consoles up here as they are typically warm weather boats. I've owned several boats over the years and spend the bulk of my fishing time with a fly rod and when I saw the mako it just screamed fly fishing due to the clean casting decks and stability.

When reading the professional test results everything seemed positive however the other sites were full of negatives primarily from guys who never owned or even caught a ride in a pro skiff for all that matters. Have gleaned several good tips for setting up my boat from this forum so again, thanks for the input!

Jonc


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## Law Dog

Good looking rig, congrats!


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## joebucko

Welcome Jonc. I bought my boat because of the positive comments from owners on this site. It has done everything I hoped it would do. I only fish freshwater for bass here in Central Texas (DFW) and this boat is ideal for how I fish. I don't understand why more bass fisherman don't use center consoles.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

reel legs said:


> Gentleman, sorry I have not kept up with this forum but I have been too busy fishing/preparing my house for our new baby girl/transitioning into a new job/ no internet access. Alright, down to business.
> **WARNING THIS MAY BE LONG!**
> 
> I have a hydraulic atlas micro jack installed on my pro skiff (60 hp outboard). I installed it because the lower laguna madre bays can get pretty low, and without a tunnel hull..I wanted to give myself the biggest chance at fishing shallow over sands and soft mud. Before installing the jack, my skiff would suffer to plane in 1 1/2' - 2' areas. It wasn't the depth that was the problem, it was the SEA GRASS that would continuously stall the prop and just cause headaches. After seeking advice from experienced boaters, the consensus was to trade in my skiff for a tunnel hull and stop wasting my time. However, I have a great attachment to my first boat and decided to (respectfully) say 'screw them I'm gonna try it anyway'. I purchased this boat to LEARN, not to bust my wallet. That's what college was for. But I digress... Bass Pro installed my atlas jack in 2 days time and I also attached a hydrofoil (figured it wouldn't hurt). Well, I'm pleased to say that I have been able to get in and out of water from arroyo colorado and south padre island (including south bay). Now, even though I have gone into South Bay I've never polled or drifted into less than half a foot. I do not know what performance I have gained or lost with the addition of the foil since I installed it the same time as the jack but I must say the resistance in steering has gone up a bit after speeds of 20+ mph. (I'm guessing it's the drag being picked up from the foil so I always raise the outboard so the foil is skimming the surface. I have heard horror stories with cavitation plates sitting below the surface and causing damage to transoms). Skiff does not skid in turns with the plate and stability/gas remains unchanged. RPM's increase a bit more to reach the same speeds...after installing and cruising with the jack I'm hitting 4 rpm to reach 28 -30mph. All in all, I love my first boat, glad I installed the jack. I'm not scarring up the bays from mowing grass and have not run aground once. A bit of advice though, our skiffs are NOT tunnel hulls nor do they expensive IBIS boats. Don't think that installing a jack will get you planing in 2 inches of water. Common sense goes a long way. Hope this helps a bit and sorry for ranting so much, it's just been a while. Good luck!


reel legs, did you keep the mechanical steering or replace it with a hydraulic unit.


----------



## Jonc

Thanks JoeB.. You have your boat rigged up perfect from my prospective. It's gonna be a while before I actually pick mine up as we're still buried in ice and snow up here and will be for another few months. I bought mine up in Michigan and they agreed to keep it stored until the big thaw sometime in early April. I did order a stick it yesterday and plan on using your console mount idea to stow it away. 

Not yet decided on the trolling motor but I got this crazy idea to mount a bow mount to the port aft casting deck. I typically fish with another buddy and it seems to make sense from a wiring prospective. What say you? Am I nuts?


----------



## joebucko

There is probably room on the aft deck to mount one. My concern would be the total added weight in the stern when you add the deep cycle battery+motor. The motor would probably need to be either a hand controlled motor or an electric steer with remote since you are pretty limited on deck space. I don't know how you could effectively utilize a foot pedal back there especially when you are casting off the starboard side. 

The way mine is currently layed out with the trolling motor and battery in the bow the boat is very balanced fore to aft. I can fish one or two people and the boat just sits flat in the water and it is almost instantly on plane when I hit the throttle.


----------



## reel legs

@flatscat ..i have mechanical steering. Didn't know hydraulic was an option?


----------



## Jonc

*Pro skiff lift setup*

Thanks again JoeB... I think I'll run it this season without a bow mount and see how I like it before installing one. With fly line I just hate to have anything on that bow if there's a way around it. Quick question to all... Do any of you by chance keep your Pro Skiff on a lift?

I'm on a lake all summer and have an extra 22' aluminum shore station lift and trying to figure out what type of bunk setup I'd need for the mako hull design.

Jonc


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## joebucko

*Minn Kota Terrova iPilot installed*

I have now had the iPilot out three times. The only word to describe it is AWESOME. The water here in the Dallas area is 49deqs so the fish are very sluggish. I have recorded several TRACKS with the iPilot and when you go back to one of these and tell it to follow the track it is amazing. All you do is fish no matter how tricky the course or the wind. 
Yesterday I had the privelege of catching the largest bass of my life.
7.31 pounds holding off a point in the wind with my SpotLock set. I only had to worry about landing the beast not about boat control and staying off the rocks while fighting the fish.


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## FlatsCatFL

nice catch, JB. also great real world perspective on the MK iPilot TM.


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## FlatsCatFL

reel legs, thanks for the response on the jack plate question. 

the reason i asked is that a BPS rep. said he thought the mechanical steering would bind due to not enough free play when the JP was elevated.


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## Jonc

*Pro skiff dock lift*

Wondering if any of you guys out there keep your pro skiff on a boat lift by any chance? Joebucko has given me plenty of great ideas for setting the boat up but wondering about bunk setup on my shore station lift with the inverted v hull design.


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## leadhead10

Jonc 
You should be able to design the boat lift bunks to be identical to your trailer bunks and have no problems. I am no expert at this but that is just my $.02. There is a guy on here that sells Boat Lifts that has been very helpful point me in the right direction for my boat lift. Contact him and he should be able to answer your question. His 2cool name is BOATLIFT.


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## FlatsCatFL

*live well seating/gasket question*

hey all you mako pro skiff owners. i'd like to know how your live well seat seams and gaskets are holding up?

the one's on display i see at my local BPS don't seem to be holding up very well. the sliding forward/backward to allow access to the bait well seems to be taking a toll on the vinyl seating and the rubber gasket it slides/seals against.

i'm inching closer to pulling the trigger on the 17 footer now that Mako has addressed the live well sucking air when running issue. but now i see another design flaw with the aformentioned seating issue.

cheers.


----------



## Jonc

Thanks leadhead10 I'll contact him today. Won't be picking up my boat for a few more months and trying to plan ahead for when the the ice melts up here. I can't locate any empty trailer pictures on the net anywhere to determine the bunk set up. Thnx again..


----------



## motfua

Wife and I have been looking , watching, and reading all reviews we can find on this boat.
The only thing holding us upnow is the income tax return,,,lol.
Congrats on your boat,enjoy, and play safe.
tom and amy


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## Jonc

*Sea sucker rod mounts*

Hey guys.. A few years ago a buddy explained to me the definition of fishing was simply " spending money I don't have on **** I don't need" With that said I came across a horizontal rod mount made be sea sucker that would work perfect on our Mako Skiffs.

When I realized how much these things cost, ($130) for a rod holder I almost laughed out loud. Any rate, I evidently forgot my buddies advice and bought a set anyway. Not only are these things extremely well engineered but are very heavy duty vacuum holders.

If you look in the picture the pump valve is orange on one end which will show you at a glance if it needs a quick pump or two to keep it attached. I thought even for the money it was far better than drilling a bunch of holes in a brand new boat plus you can move it around or remove it completely.

They also have bait cutting boards, cup holders, etc. and I think I'm also gonna buy the rocket launcher set to stick on the back of the cooler. Obviously haven't tested it out on the boat yet but the thing did stick to my desk for a week without loosing any grip. Too cool not to share.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

JonC, 

Sea Sucker products are awesome, and will probably last a lifetime if cared for properly.

I flinch at their $ too, but justify the purchase for the same reasons you do.......versatility, portability and NO HOLES IN THE BOAT! They are def on my list when a Pro Skiff should arrive.


----------



## Jonc

When is delivery day on your boat flats cat?


----------



## FlatsCatFL

Jonc, hopefully sometime after this year's taxes are due. I've got my fingers crossed.


----------



## Jonc

I get it flats cat... Taxes and dying and personally I'm not crazy about either. Looks like you've certainly done your research so the time will come.
Jonc


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## highanddryinco

I'm a new member as of today but have been watching along for some time now. Great discussion going on here. I must have bought one of the early Mako 17 skiffs (February 2012) as there was almost nothing out there for feedback and heaven forbid a person should ask about Mako on some of the other sites because it was slam city against them. Granted it's not the fit and finish king but I can certainly find no reason to bash it. It fits a niche and mine was to buy my first new boat at a reasonable price and covered by a warranty, upfit it the way I wanted and not break the bank doing it, have something that I could use here in Colorado and drag to Florida, Wisconsin, and wherever I choose without a lot of towing hassle. The Mako fit the bill and so far has treated me very well. 

I've got a few comments, questions, photos, and one unfortunate accessory issue that I haven't heard anyone mention yet that I'll be posting soon but for now...

@ Joebucko > I really like the center bow cleat you put on and was considering it myself. When anchored from there if there's chop, do you get a lot of hull slap from the waves? I notice when trolling straight on into waves, that little spray down-deflector on the front really seems to "clap" the water against the hull and wondered if anchoring there was similar.

@Coolskunk > Amen to the bow spoon thing. It caught me by surprise one time when it wasn't even that rough. I was in the process of slowing down from cruise speed while crossing the small remnant of another boat's wake...holy [email protected]@p did my eyes pop when I saw that smooth blanket of water pour over the deck. 

@Everyone > Yeah, why not a wiring chase to the front? The skiff just screams to have a trolling motor up front and for whatever reason, Mako didn't make it a user friendly install. And to those of you still checking, it does not exist. I asked Mako about possibly adding my own access cover both front and rear on the liner wall up high near the gunnel and fishing a wire forward. I was advised that the foam in the hull does in fact fill all the way to the gunnel underside and that fishing a wire would not be possible. They also advised that for weight distribution...batteries forward was the way to go. So off I went reinventing the wheel. I'll post my battery install soon on a separate post. 

I look forward to following this thread and hearing more user feedback.


----------



## joebucko

Welcome Highanddryinco. 
I have not noticed any hull slap when anchored but with enough chop I am sure there will be. I fish mostly for bass so that much chop is going to create waves slapping against the shore so for me it won't matter much.

The lack of a wiring chase up front is an inconvenience for me but certainly not a show stopper. I would like to run a small circuit up there for a fish finder so without it I am forced to use a small auxillary battery(12v 8ahr from Cabelas). I would really like to see how you managed to get wiring up there.

I personally like my trolling motor battery up front for balance. In the stern I have two 6.5gal gas tanks and my starter battery so I have a lot of weight back there already. The battery in front really balances out my boat and allows it to go on plane very fast with little bow rise. My regular fishing partners are pretty much in awe of the boats stability and the way it effortlessly planes out. Their boats suffer noticeable bow rise.


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## Jonc

Welcome aboard highanddryinco..

This is a great forum and you'll find that all of the guys are more than willing to help in any way. You're right in that some of the other sites are just brutal towards the pro skiff but that's typical. Joe bucko is the pro skiff wizard of oz!

Jonc


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## highanddryinco

Thanks for the welcome. I'll post a photo or two tonight but now I've got to go shovel snow and get to work. sad_smiles Just a few inches, not as bad as predicted. Much needed though as we are truly "high and dry" this year.


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## highanddryinco

ARRRGH! :headknock I just spent an hour + putting a detailed post together with my battery set-up and photos and when I went to preview post it said I wasn't logged in. But I was, I was, I swear I was! Otherwise I wouldn't have been able to start the post.

I'm not an expert here but can a guy do this stuff in MS Word and just paste it in this box? Maybe I could at least do the text and upload the photos after. That's what I'll do...Later.


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## motfua

well I appreciate your efforts High,,, I'm very interested in what you have set up. thanks for the efforts
tom
magnolia tx


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## joebucko

Yes Highanddryinco you can compose in Word or any text editor then paste the text into the box. I had the same problem. On your photos remember that there is a size limit also. I know on JPGs it is 400k per picture. there is a table defining the sizes when you open the Manage Attachments link. Looking forward to seeing your setup.
Thanks


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## highanddryinco

OK, after yesterday's debacle, here's the bullet point Reader's Digest version before I head off to work:
· Made out of one piece 1/8" aluminum sheet, cut and bent. Wider in the front, narrower in the rear, following the angle of that "transmission hump" molded into the deck.
· Approx 4" high, leaving approx 9 3/4" between top of rack and bottom of casting deck. That leaves room for the two Group 27 blue top Optima batteries. Batteries are securely mounted in one of those battery trays specifically designed to carry the Optima.
· The side supports were scribed and contoured to match the non-flat deck surface. Then I TIG welded on those 2 ¼" wide flat feet.
· Test fit and pre-drilled everything, then sent it off to the powder coat guy.
· Bedded it down to the deck with some 4200 and "short" screws. 
· After watching for month to make sure everything was riding nice and not getting beat up, I welded up some ¼" Star Board into the cover that you see in the photo. Easily removes with two screws.
WIRING:
· I left a short four wire pigtail with a Weather-Pak connector under the battery box. When not charging, it's easy to disconnect and I have a Velcro patch under the battery stand that holds it hidden in place.
· I put the three bank charger under the console so one bank is permanently tied into the starting battery and the wires for the trolling motor banks are coiled up with the same Weather-pak connector, ready to be deployed when I get home from a day on the water.
· Trolling motor wiring was pretty straight forward with the wires leaving the right side of my battery box, and snaked up under the front deck where I brought them through and wired to a quick disconnect.
All in all, I'm very happy with the set-up and it allows me to have open storage both sides of the battery box. You'll see I use a cheap 12 gallon tote (anchor, dock lines, etc.) on the left with a stop block to keep it in the front of the boat and I throw a large watertight duffle on the right.




























I hope this can help someone if they're in a pickle about what to do. Maybe somebody can run with it and make it even nicer. Obviously it wasn't a weekend project and i did a lot of mock-up test fitting with hardboard and a glue gun until I had a rough prototype.

I've gotta run.


----------



## joebucko

Thanks Highanddryinco. I like the way your were able to utilize the space above the floor hump and then neatly tuck away all the wiring. My set up is a little different. 

1. I only run 1 deepcycle battery which is housed in a standard battery box secured under the front starboard deck.
2. My charger is mounted to the firewall under the front deck.
3. I use the same sort of 'extension cord' to connect to the starter battery in the stern when charging then roll it up and tuck it away behind the trolling motor battery when not in use.


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## highanddryinco

*Rod Holders*

Here's a couple of photos of the rod holders I put in. I used four Scotty flush mounts on the rear deck and two Scotty all purpose mounts just forward of the livewell seat tucked inside the gunnel. They work nice for trolling with dipsy divers or planer boards or just for a place to set the rod when the kiddos get tired of holding a rod while drowning a worm.


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## highanddryinco

I'm not sure if all the Pro-Skiffs are this way but on mine the live well drain tube that screws in, is really close to the side of the live well. So much so that last year in Florida, the majority of our bait pinfish were dying because they tend to swim in a circle and they'd get their noses wedged into that little gap between the tube and the side of the well. Not being the smartest creatures in the world, they'd stay there and drown. So just the other day I added a drain outlet at the proper level and tee'd it into the lower drain line under the console. So now if I want to use the live well, I just pop a 1" rubber snap plug into the original bottom drain hole. No on water experience with this setup yet but functions fine with a garden hose in the garage. Heading to Florida next month so I'll give it a whirl there.


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## motfua

perfect ,,,,,, thanks
tom


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## FlatsCatFL

I love this forum. More good stuff from the creative minds of Pro Skiff owners! 

I'm in the process of buying a vehicle that can tow a Pro Skiff.....so phase one of eventually owning a Pro Skiff of my own is almost complete.


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## motfua

ok guys,,, i need ideas on how to modify a couple rod holders to hold flyrods...
also has anyone tried installing a small poling platform on the rear deck? if so give me some details, and how well does it pole?
thanks


----------



## mudmauler

Does anybody have piuctures of how bass pro solved the no recirculating livewell under power problem. I read where they added a piece of pvc to somebodies skiff and was just looking for more info. I am looking to make a 1 hr run next weekend and would like to still have my bait alive when i get there. I purchased my pro skiff from a dealer in Corpus Christi and dont think i would get it back in time if i let them figure it out. Thanks for any help.


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## highanddryinco

Mudmauler, I can't speak to the under power part of it because I'm not sure but I know that mine would not even pick up water at a dead stop right from day 1. Even tried to run in reverse and force some water into it...no luck.
My BPS guy looked at it and immediately said that he doesn't know why they (factory) use the pump with the inline inlet up against transom and then don't even put the outlet to the live well at the highest point. (i.e. the pump is laying horizontal) Makes sense that it could trap an air bubble inside and not be able to create a suction draw. He grabbed one off of the shelf that was set up vertically, threw it on, and a half hour later we were down the road headed for the lake. It worked the first time and continues to work. That said, I haven't made any one hour runs to verify it will work while on plane. I would think that that might be a stretch to hope for with that inlet located where it is. Here's a photo of the vertical one he put in. I'll pay closer attention to it next time I'm out. Right now we're having a blizzard so it may not be 'till we head south next month. :cloud:sad_smiles
If you do get any more info the "approved" fix, please let us know.


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## highanddryinco

While I'm here, do any of you Mako 17 Pro Skiff owners have an off the shelf semi custom cover that they are actually using and would recommend for long distance trailering? I've got over 5,000 trailering miles on my unit and so far I've just used the center console cover that came with it. No real issues so far but I'm entertaining trying a cover for next month's trip to Florida. 
Carver has a good selection and I'm leaning toward the 71017P.


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## joebucko

*Boat cover*

I got the 71018NP (18ft) because I was going to eventually replace my existing trolling motor with a MinnKota Terrova and these things are a bit larger than my existing MotorGuide and they also hang over the front of the boat quite a bit more. 
If you have a regular trolling motor, no trolling motor or can remove the trolling motor then you want the 71017NP. Not sure what the difference is between the P and NP. Nice quality cover @ about $250. This is an American made Carver boat cover. I got mine from an ebay seller: ARTICALS and tell him its for the *Mako* *Pro* 17.


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## highanddryinco

Thanks joebucko. Much appreciated. I'll get one coming. The "N" is their narrow series. Its recommended for a 77" beam with a 50" max console. I'm not sure how they measure the console, but I would assume they mean "above the gunnel." Ours is only about about 35" above the gunnel so I could see where there would be enough extra to pull over our 80" beam. I think I like that because their regular size is for a 90" beam with up to a 55" console. Probably too much hanging over the rub rail for that nice extra wind flapping while flying down the road. I think I'll stick with 17 as I did use the quick release on the I-pilot and will have it removed for long travels. 

Again, thanks for the help! Real life feedback is much better than guessing from a size chart. :cheers:


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## FlatsCatFL

mudmauler said:


> Does anybody have piuctures of how bass pro solved the no recirculating livewell under power problem. I read where they added a piece of pvc to somebodies skiff and was just looking for more info. I am looking to make a 1 hr run next weekend and would like to still have my bait alive when i get there. I purchased my pro skiff from a dealer in Corpus Christi and dont think i would get it back in time if i let them figure it out. Thanks for any help.


Mudmauler, next time i'm in the BPS here in Ft. Laud./Dania, FL i'll take some pics of the most recent 2013's with the new configuration for the live well pickup. Cheers!


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## joebucko

highanddryinco. 
When I need to replace my cover I will order the 17' narrow instead of the 18N I currently have. I have my iPilot on a quick release bracket as well so I won't need the extra length. There is plenty of overhang on the rails and what seem like an ample number of tie downs to anchor it for travel. The built in motor cover fits the Mercury 60 like a glove.
Have a safe trip South.


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## mudmauler

FlatsCatFL said:


> Mudmauler, next time i'm in the BPS here in Ft. Laud./Dania, FL i'll take some pics of the most recent 2013's with the new configuration for the live well pickup. Cheers!


Thank you! Ill be looking out for them!


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## FlatsCatFL

*2013 Mako Pro 17 Pics*

Hello all.

Here are some pics I took of a 2013 pro 17 on the floor of my local BPS here in Ft. Lauderdale/Dania Beach.

These pics show some running changes:

-The live well water pickup is now on the right side with a better design and location.

-The cooler/seat has bigger non-stainless tie downs.

-The live well is also sporting some sort of orifice covered with a black strainer cap.

Also took a pic of the live well top/seat cushion construction. This design/construction is also less than ideal. It creates, i think, to much friction against the rubber seal/gasket causing premature failure to both components.

This is also my first attempt to attach pics to a post.

Cheers!


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## highanddryinco

Thanks for that FlatsCatFL. Looks like I may be adding an EZ Pump pick-up cover and a plastic screen over my livewell overflow drain. Two very inexpensive items.


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## TXPIRATE

does anyone have issues with water coming out of the livewell while running. What I mean is have you had anyone get wet sitting on the front seat. Does anyone have a video of one running while it is choppy to get an idea of the ride?


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## mudmauler

You are awesome! That's exactly what I needed to see! Thanks!


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## highanddryinco

OK Pro Skiff 2-Coolers, I hate to be the bearer of bad news but I have to share an issue that I hope you don't have, but there's a good chance that you may. Last year about this time in March, I barely squeezed in about three short test drives here in Denver and then it was off to Florida with my brand new skiff. How exciting! What a great trip, loved the boat, loved the extra 5+ mph it did down at sea level, pretty much loved the whole experience. If I had one complaint it would be that even in the milder March temperatures, I seemed to be going through more ice than I thought I should. No big deal, keep enjoying the trip and come home. When I got home, I diligently washed and scrubbed the boat, trailer, and all the accessories as I'm mainly a freshwater user. When I laid the cooler on its side to finish draining, the setting sun behind it revealed why the ice wasn't lasting. See photo below. Too make a long story short, I think I'm now on cooler number seven or eight and finally gave up and am living with only about a four inch diameter insulation void in the thin side under one of the handles. I'll probably drill a hole and fill with spray foam or something along those lines. So grab a bright light and go in a dim room. If you've got a void, it's very easy to spot. Write back and let me know what you find.


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## Jonc

Wow... Thanks for the tip.. Did you by chance forward that pic and your experience directly to Mako ? It would be very interesting to here their response. As a manufacturer I would go ballistic with that type of horrible breakdown in quality control. Your light needs to be incorporated into their QC line.

Jonc


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## FlatsCatFL

Yeah, same here. Thanks for the tip. One more punch list item to add when I finally pull the trigger on this boat.


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## highanddryinco

I did not contact Mako directly but rather worked through the BPS Tracker department at my local store where I bought the boat. They really have been good to work with, no complaints there. They did send in my photos after corporate didn't seem to get a clue and kept sending coolers obviously without checking them out first. Some worse than others but still have never received one done 100% correctly yet. My BPS was getting frustrated with Mako as well because of the shipping cost to keep sending these things back. 

I hope they have someone else foaming the hulls...?


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## Jonc

I've been waiting to pick my boat up until the roads are clear as the closest dealer is 2 hours north of me in michigan. I'll check mine out when I'm there and before i hook it up to my jeep. will get back to you with results. I did buy a holdover 2012 so won't know if they addressed the problem for the 2013 models.

I'm sure you'll have all of the owners on this blog checking there coolers out highanddryinco. Thnx again.

Jonc


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## rgourley11

*Great forum on Mako Skiff*

I to have decided to get the Mako pro 17 CC with the 60Hp option. Finally upgrading from my J14 Carolina Skiff I have been fishing out of the last 6 years. The forum was very helpful in my final decision. Couple of things I found from this forum that I found on the new 2013 model. The cooler had a spot around 10" round on the side with no foam filled in it as said to look for in a post. The pump for the aerator is mounted horizontal not vertical which will most likely cause the same problem with the pump having a bubble trapped and not working right that someone talked about. The live well has changed where the drain plug is from the 2012 model but the new hinges leave a 1/8" to 3/16" gap between the seat and the gasket. I assume with the live well filled, the water would pour out when traveling and get anyone setting on the seat good and wet. Talked with BPS sales and service about correcting all the things I found and they said they would be able to fix most with no problem except the live well problem they have to get with Mako to see what can be done to correct this bad design.
Looked a a 2013 with the 60 upgrade, the upgrade trailer that makes the boat fit back in my garage, front seat added and a Lowrance HD7 installed with the $500.00 gift card.
Thanks to all the great feedback and post I have seen.
Should get it by 3/9/13


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## highanddryinco

Congrats rgourley11! Can't wait to hear how the first test run goes. Who knows, with the flip-flop that they did with the live well pick-up and drain ports and the addition of the pick up cover, you may be OK. That hole on the starboard side is probably three or more inches lower than the one on port that used to be the pick up on last year's models. 

Fellow 2012 Pro-skiff owners...Just to confirm...Mako did plumb yours with the live well pick up in the higher port hole and the drain in the lower starboard hole, didn't they?


----------



## rgourley11

*Live Well*

No the fill and drain are on the stern of the boat. The pick up has a screen over it and is about a 1" or 2" above the pick up hole from the pic I happen to take of the boat when I looked at it. The bilge pump dumps out the port side only. The live well change I could see from 2012 is the overfill is on the opposite side with a protected screen cover on it now. Do not know if the 2012 had the same seat deign with the gaps and hinges. Will post some pics Friday night. BPS called and set up to pick boat up Friday now.


----------



## joebucko

*Rod Holders*

I got tired of my rods/reels flopping around in the short rod holders on the console so I made these inserts to tighten things up a bit. They have worked out great. 1 1/4" ID schedule 40 pvc knotched at the bottom to grab the bottom of the rod holder and sculpted top to fit both bait cast and spinning reels. Length is sized to fit my rod handles. A couple of wraps of duct tape and they are snug in the holes but can be pulled out easily if need be. The inside diameter of 1 1/4" was just right for my rods. If your handles are thicker I believe Lowes also had a pvc that had slightly thinner walls=wider inside diameter(probably drain pipe not schedule 40). 
The 2nd hole is pretty much useless for holding rods because of the stainless steel grab rail.


----------



## rgourley11

Thanks for the ideal, I will most likely need to do that also. Hey can anyone give me the measurement from the front of the cooler to the console. Seemed like the one I got in at BPS was to close to be comfortable standing between it and console steering.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

rgourley11 said:


> I to have decided to get the Mako pro 17 CC with the 60Hp option. Finally upgrading from my J14 Carolina Skiff I have been fishing out of the last 6 years. The forum was very helpful in my final decision. Couple of things I found from this forum that I found on the new 2013 model. The cooler had a spot around 10" round on the side with no foam filled in it as said to look for in a post. The pump for the aerator is mounted horizontal not vertical which will most likely cause the same problem with the pump having a bubble trapped and not working right that someone talked about. The live well has changed where the drain plug is from the 2012 model but the new hinges leave a 1/8" to 3/16" gap between the seat and the gasket. I assume with the live well filled, the water would pour out when traveling and get anyone setting on the seat good and wet. Talked with BPS sales and service about correcting all the things I found and they said they would be able to fix most with no problem except the live well problem they have to get with Mako to see what can be done to correct this bad design.
> Looked a a 2013 with the 60 upgrade, the upgrade trailer that makes the boat fit back in my garage, front seat added and a Lowrance HD7 installed with the $500.00 gift card.
> Thanks to all the great feedback and post I have seen.
> Should get it by 3/9/13


Congrats Rgourley11 on your new skiff. Looking forward to your continued input and feedback. Cheers.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

joebucko said:


> I got tired of my rods/reels flopping around in the short rod holders on the console so I made these inserts to tighten things up a bit. They have worked out great. 1 1/4" ID schedule 40 pvc knotched at the bottom to grab the bottom of the rod holder and sculpted top to fit both bait cast and spinning reels. Length is sized to fit my rod handles. A couple of wraps of duct tape and they are snug in the holes but can be pulled out easily if need be. The inside diameter of 1 1/4" was just right for my rods. If your handles are thicker I believe Lowes also had a pvc that had slightly thinner walls=wider inside diameter(probably drain pipe not schedule 40).
> The 2nd hole is pretty much useless for holding rods because of the stainless steel grab rail.


More good stuff Joebucko, I like the way you think! Cheers!


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## highanddryinco

*Livewell Pick up and Drain Location*

Thanks rgourley11. Sorry, I should have been more more precise in my port/starboard description...as in left or right of center line. My bad.
The photo below is how my 2012 came from Mako. Several posts back, FlatsCat had posted some photos of how a 2013 was set up at his local BPS. From what you're saying, it sounds like your 2013 is set up just like my 2012. I'm wondering if Mako actually addressed the issue or if the BPS by FlatsCat just did this modification in house.


----------



## Jonc

Thanks for another great idea joe bucko.. I bought the sea sucker horizontal rod mounts as for the life of me I couldn't figure out what to do with those verticle rod holders outside of Cuban cigar storage since I'm mostly a fly fisherman. I think I'll try cutting the slot in the PVC about 3-4 inches long and just wide enough for my reel to slide thru and still hold my fly rods in place.

I know I'm the oddball in this forum as I bought a 16' pro skiff but any pro skiff fly fisherman out there with more rod stowage tips?

Jonc


----------



## FlatsCatFL

highanddryinco said:


> Thanks rgourley11. Sorry, I should have been more more precise in my port/starboard description...as in left or right of center line. My bad.
> The photo below is how my 2012 came from Mako. Several posts back, FlatsCat had posted some photos of how a 2013 was set up at his local BPS. From what you're saying, it sounds like your 2013 is set up just like my 2012. I'm wondering if Mako actually addressed the issue or if the BPS by FlatsCat just did this modification in house.


Good point about my local BPS possibly doing an in house modification on the live well pickup. I will ask around the next time I'm there.


----------



## joebucko

thanks for the stern picture Highanddryinco. I have one of the early Mako Pro17s and my set up is a little different. I only have three holes in the stern.
1. Screened livewell pickup 
1. Metal drain plug 
1. White plastic livewell drain 
All three are positioned like yours.

I don't have the metal hole directly above the drain plug. What is the purpose of this hole?
Thanks


----------



## highanddryinco

Morning Joebucko,
That's another drain plug. Rubber stopper type. It goes through above deck, right at the bottom of the bilge area. That seems very interesting that they didn't put one on yours. So I'm guessing there's no other way to drain the water, say if you're on the driveway washing out the boat? You'd have to use the bilge pump?
I would think it wouldn't be too hard to add one.
I've got to head off to work now but PM me if you want and we can exchange hull numbers. I would have thought mine was one of the very early ones as well. I'll do the same this evening.


----------



## joebucko

Highanddryinco,
My boat is probably earlier than yours even though I bought mine after you did. My single metal drain is located where yours is but it drains both the hull and the bilge. I know that because when I bring my boat home and hose it down in the driveway all I have to do is crank up the trailer jack and all water simply drains out through the single hole. Mako may have made a change to the stern floor/bilge recess on later boats that closed off access to the lower drain. Odd that they would do that but I can't think of any other reason for the second drain hole.


----------



## rgourley11

*New Mako Skiff home*

:texasflag Picked up the new boat today here is some pictures for some of you that had question on any changes on the 2013 hull model last couple ser# 22G 213. Not to sure what was on the 2012 model set up. Only thing I may need to have changed on this one is the seat, just seem to close to me (maybe not). I will find out tomorrow when I take her out to start break in.


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## highanddryinco

Very nice rgourley11, thanks for the pics too. Even nicer that you're somewhere that you can jump on the water tomorrow. I'm just a bit jealous because we're supposed to have a blizzard.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*Went by local BPS today*

Hello all. Dropped by my local BPS today. I asked a sales rep. about the EZ Pickup for the live well. He said the shop did not do the work. So, if that's true it would indicate a running change in the '13 model. I know for sure there were advertised 2013 floor units during the Christmas holidays.

That being said, it's possible that Rgourley11 was sold an early '13 model that was in his local BPS inventory. Maybe RG11 will shed some light on it.

Whenever anyone's in their local BPS they should put some eyeballs on the inventory so as to get some consistency with this issue.

Cheers!


----------



## TXPIRATE

I would really like to know how the boat handles compare to other skiffs. How is it in rough water? Does it have a solid "feel" to it.


----------



## rgourley11

TXPIRATE said:


> I would really like to know how the boat handles compare to other skiffs. How is it in rough water? Does it have a solid "feel" to it.


I will let you know, Going to take it out on Lake Conroe tomorrow and the winds is going to be around 16 to 20 mph and on that Lake on the south end its like being the the Bay. We will see how it handle's it.


----------



## rgourley11

FlatsCatFL said:


> Hello all. Dropped by my local BPS today. I asked a sales rep. about the EZ Pickup for the live well. He said the shop did not do the work. So, if that's true it would indicate a running change in the '13 model. I know for sure there were advertised 2013 floor units during the Christmas holidays.
> 
> That being said, it's possible that Rgourley11 was sold an early '13 model that was in his local BPS inventory. Maybe RG11 will shed some light on it.
> 
> Whenever anyone's in their local BPS they should put some eyeballs on the inventory so as to get some consistency with this issue.
> 
> Cheers!


Hey FlatsCatFl forgot to post there was another 2013 there when I picked mine up still covered in the plastic wrap they ship on them and it had the same set up on the stern as mine. Did not see a ez pick up on it. So not for sure what going on. Anyone able to answer me on the cooler set up behind the console. How far it off it. Thanks


----------



## highanddryinco

rgourley11 said:


> Hey FlatsCatFl forgot to post there was another 2013 there when I picked mine up still covered in the plastic wrap they ship on them and it had the same set up on the stern as mine. Did not see a ez pick up on it. So not for sure what going on. Anyone able to answer me on the cooler set up behind the console. How far it off it. Thanks


Mine is about 21" give or take an inch from the base of the console to the base of the cooler measured at the center line.


----------



## Jonc

*Pick up*









Here's my 2012still at the dealer and it also has the starboard cover over the pick up


----------



## rgourley11

Must be some kind of option you can get I assume.


----------



## Swfl mako

Just bought one on Tuesday, had stereo, Bimini, installed, havin it delivered to snook bight marina today, keep it in dry rack, gonna do break in tomorrow, 
Will post high definition video soon...........for anyone still on the fence


----------



## rgourley11

*Break in*

Well took it out for the first 2 hour break in and all I can say is WOW. 16 mph wind on Lake Conroe and if anyone knows the south end, it can get good and choppy. Boat handles the chop great. I should know sense i have been in a Carolina Skiff J14 the last 6 years in the bays and lakes. I didn't know how dry I was suppose to be. Would not of even tried taking the j14 out in this today. Fished out of a whaler in Galveston with a friends boat and I have to say this Mako has to be one of the best skiffs on the market. Also did not have any problems with the pick up for the live well ran good. But the seat is a problem water splashes out when live well running full. They have to fix that. Gas mileage is great also.


----------



## TXPIRATE

Glad it did well. I was worried about the livewell splashing. I am not sure how you could fix it. Maybe just insulate it and use it as a drink box and use a portable livewell when you need one. I would love to see the video also.


----------



## traxxxas01

*EZ Pump*

Hey everyone, 
This EZ Pump is something new for all the 2013 Skiff's moving forward. I personally was involved in fixing this issue around the end of the year in 2012. There may still be some 2013's that were early released in 2012 that may or may not have this but as of now all the 2013's will have this new design. If anyone wants to add it, you can drop by your local tracker dealer and order the part. It's fairly cheap, $28.04 plus your local tax. Here is the tracker part number: 129006.

If anyone has any other questions or what not feel free to PM me or what have you, I'm a sales consultant for TMBC and have worked with them for the past 7 years while I got my engineering degree. Hope this can answer some questions.


----------



## rgourley11

traxxxas01 said:


> Hey everyone,
> This EZ Pump is something new for all the 2013 Skiff's moving forward. I personally was involved in fixing this issue around the end of the year in 2012. There may still be some 2013's that were early released in 2012 that may or may not have this but as of now all the 2013's will have this new design. If anyone wants to add it, you can drop by your local tracker dealer and order the part. It's fairly cheap, $28.04 plus your local tax. Here is the tracker part number: 129006.
> 
> If anyone has any other questions or what not feel free to PM me or what have you, I'm a sales consultant for TMBC and have worked with them for the past 7 years while I got my engineering degree. Hope this can answer some questions.


Good news thanks. Now I will see if BPS will change mine over to the new set up. Got a 2013 model but must of been sent out before changes made. You heard anything about the seat issue covering the live well with the water coming out. Looks like the hinges should of been recessed into the console to make the seal to the gasket.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*really glad you're on the board*



traxxxas01 said:


> Hey everyone,
> This EZ Pump is something new for all the 2013 Skiff's moving forward. I personally was involved in fixing this issue around the end of the year in 2012. There may still be some 2013's that were early released in 2012 that may or may not have this but as of now all the 2013's will have this new design. If anyone wants to add it, you can drop by your local tracker dealer and order the part. It's fairly cheap, $28.04 plus your local tax. Here is the tracker part number: 129006.
> 
> If anyone has any other questions or what not feel free to PM me or what have you, I'm a sales consultant for TMBC and have worked with them for the past 7 years while I got my engineering degree. Hope this can answer some questions.


hey traxxxas01, really glad you're providing some solid info on the pro 17. i look forward to you clarifying questions we all have about the pro 17. cheers!


----------



## traxxxas01

rgourley11 said:


> Good news thanks. Now I will see if BPS will change mine over to the new set up. Got a 2013 model but must of been sent out before changes made. You heard anything about the seat issue covering the live well with the water coming out. Looks like the hinges should of been recessed into the console to make the seal to the gasket.


Odd you bring this up, I'm in the process of working with them on a fix for that as we speak. I'm assuming your having water coming out from the front of the live well around the hinge? Does your seal even touch the lid/bottom of the seat? I have some calls to make this week, I'll keep everyone posed on what we come up with!


----------



## rgourley11

*Live well*



traxxxas01 said:


> Odd you bring this up, I'm in the process of working with them on a fix for that as we speak. I'm assuming your having water coming out from the front of the live well around the hinge? Does your seal even touch the lid/bottom of the seat? I have some calls to make this week, I'll keep everyone posed on what we come up with!


No it does not touch it. It has about a 1/8 to a1/4 gap between the seat and the gasket. When I talked with BPS service manager he said they have been moving the seat back rest up on the console about a inch. He stated this helped stop the seat from getting ripped on the seam from trying to get it set back in under the back rest but that have not come up with a fix for the live well seal.


----------



## mudmauler

What prop are you guys running? RPM's at WOT? Top Speed?

I am currently running a SS Trophy Sport 10 5/8 with 12 pitch but my RPM's are at 6200 and my max speed is around 32-33 mph. 

I was at 6000 RPM and max was 38 mph with the aluminum 3 blade the boat came with. Had to get another prop and I decided SS would last longer. Just want to know which SS prop would give me same performance as the original aluminum did.


----------



## joebucko

I am running a standard Mercury 3blade aluminum 10 3/8" X 13" pitch. 34mph at 6000 rpm. There was a 3 blade 14" pitch on it from the dealer but it would only run up to 5600-5800 rpm. I carry a spare prop so I made the 14" the spare and run the 13pitch.


----------



## rgourley11

*Mods to Console*

Completed mods to console. Thanks for the Ideal Bryster. Decided on 2 for dry storage. Managed 11" storage slots. Also found some 10/24 plastic screws and wing nuts at Lowes, Drilled and tapped them in place to secure the panel on. Easy access if needed. Now onto installing 2 4" speakers and radio for some tune's while I am fishing.


----------



## AHL_1901

Great thread! Just read it from start to finish. I am thinking of downsizing to the pro skiff just for ease of storage and trailering. But I do like to take 2-3 buddies out to the jetties a few times a year. I know its possible as I have seen john boats out there....but any first hand experience? Hope I'm not due railing this thread it just seemed like an open pro skiff forum at this point. Thank you

Sent from my Nexus 10


----------



## bryster

rgourley, yeah I think they should make the cover thingy an accessory, it cleans up the boat and provides nice watertight storage for wallet and documents. 

I finally order4ed some starboard to mount the bow trolling motor I got from joebucko and can't wait to get it mounted up.

Still trying to find where I want to drill into the decks for rod holders, but just can't pull the trigger yet. 

As for Jetties - I'd love to head out there but am still a baby. On a calm day I think it'd be ok, but just don't have enough experience yet to bust out of the bay.

I really want a small cooler rack to lift the cooler up a few inches - it would also make cleaning a lot easier as I don't like to pull the cooler all the way out of the boat.

The plastic/nylon/starboard cooler tie downs look a lot better than the little stainless cleats the 2012's came with. Maybe I will install a couple of narrow starboard runners with a tie down cutout to lift the cooler up off the deck.

keep coming with your boat rigging and mods - great to see what others are doing!


----------



## AHL_1901

How much freeboard do you have when drifting? If two adults stand in the rear are you taking water through the skuppers? Does it have a self draining deck? Thanks in advance this thread is so useful.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## eyesneers

*Thanks for all the great info*

I just paid the deposit on a 2012 model(they are throwing in a Minn Kota riptide trolling motor and putting a swing away tongue on so I won't get it for another week). I have been debating on what boat to get for a year and reading this thread really helped me make up my mind. Thanks for all the great info! After reading the threads I still am not sure if I am going to have to do something to my livewell? Is the pumping water on the run problem universal to all 2012 models or do I just wait and see if it bothers mine? Thanks for any help


----------



## joebucko

AHL 1901
The Pro Skiff does not have scuppers therefore is not self bailing. It relies on a bilge pump to remove any accumulated water. I have never turned my bilge pump on and have had my boat in some pretty rough chop. This is about the dryest boat I have ever owned. Two people can stand on the rear deck without taking on water.


----------



## rgourley11

*Installation of some things*

Here is a couple more pic of a stern saver installed with a transducer on it.
A Lowerance installed on console. Did it this way so I can swing it all the way around when I am on front deck. Couple of 4" speakers installed.


----------



## joebucko

rgourley11
Let us know how the Ram Mount for your Lowrance works out. I had my Humminbird ram mounted on top of the console but I got so much vibration in rough water that I had to take it off the Ram Mount and attach it directly to the console top. I like the idea of rotating it to the front for viewing.


----------



## AHL_1901

Thank you joebucko. 

Good looking speaker mount! clean


----------



## Jonc

*Anchor Storage*

Hey guys... Still rigging up the new boat and wondering what you were all doing about anchor storage? Purchased an 18 lb. PVC coated river anchor and also wondering if you guys think that will be enough to hold the pro skiff 16 I purchased.

Sea trials and break in hopefully next weekend if the weather cooperates. Water temp up here is still barely 40 degrees and winter just doesn't seem to want to leave us for a while.

Thnx.

Jonc


----------



## rgourley11

Jonc the 18lb should be ok. Got a 20lb and toke my boat out to Galveston Tx boat cut area on jetties this weekend and the wave and wind picked up pretty good by the time we left. Anchor held us in position no problem. Have to say the ride back into to Texas City Dike boat dock, the bay was really choppy. The boat handed the 3 to 4 footer great. Only little spray we got was when I turned and wind caught the water. Love the ride of the boat.


----------



## joebucko

rgourley11
How did your Lowrance do on the Ram Mount in the chop?


----------



## rgourley11

*Mount*



joebucko said:


> rgourley11
> How did your Lowrance do on the Ram Mount in the chop?


Not to bad some vibration. Could still read it no problem put the chop was very heavy. Hell the motor came out of the water on a couple of waves. I have a short Ram mount part #RAM-101-LO11 and mounted with bolts with lock nuts and flat washer on the inside of the console which keeps it tight to the console.


----------



## AHL_1901

rgourley11 said:


> Jonc the 18lb should be ok. Got a 20lb and toke my boat out to Galveston Tx boat cut area on jetties this weekend and the wave and wind picked up pretty good by the time we left. Anchor held us in position no problem. Have to say the ride back into to Texas City Dike boat dock, the bay was really choppy. The boat handed the 3 to 4 footer great. Only little spray we got was when I turned and wind caught the water. Love the ride of the boat.


Awesome report. Just you on board?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2


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## rgourley11

AHL_1901 said:


> Awesome report. Just you on board?
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2


No me and my brother.


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## AHL_1901

couple more. I was just looking at them again at bass pro today. The "sales guy" said the 40 and 60 HP mercs are made in the USA. That goes against everything iv read? Also, are these boats able to float when swamped? I know they are foam filled but with out a self bailing deck I'm slightly worried about getting the green water out if a big boat wake catches me. Anyone put a t top one one? 

Thanks again, really valuable thread.


----------



## joebucko

I don't know for sure but I assumed that my the boat would float when swamped due to the way it is designed. As for the Mercury motor the 40-50-60 are the exact same 4 cylinder motor when you review the specs. I don't know what they change/adjust to change the horsepower but there is a definate difference between the 3 when powering the boat. I have a 2013 60hp Mercury and it was made in China.


----------



## highanddryinco

Hi all,
Just got back from the Destin, Florida trip. All in all I'm still pretty happy with things. Last year at this time the boat was still brand new and I was still in shake down mode. This year the wind howled for a good part of the trip which kept us in the harbor more than we would have liked. Had a house rented with a dock so the boat was always ready to go...that was really nice! Snuck out in the Gulf a few times to some near shore reefs. Furthest out was only two miles from shore. Other was only a mile out but five down from the pass. I got some funny looks out there...totally justifiable I guess. But to any of you still planning your new boat upfitting, if you can swing the few extra bucks for the I-pilot...do it. You'll be happy you did. We didn't even pull the anchor out of the box once for the whole week. Out in the Gulf over the wrecks, the big guys were regularly pulling/dropping anchor moving 50 feet from one spot to another. I may have had the funny looking little boat but if I saw a school l on the screen, I hit the anchor lock and there we stayed. If I wanted to move, a few button pushes and we're over the next spot. Even in the pass under the Destin Bridge with an out going tide, it would hold us in place while we let pinfish drift back under the bridge. "If" I would have hooked into one of those bull reds, I could have started the motor and went after him without worrying about dropping anchor and retrieving later. My big gripe...The darn livewell was up to it's old tricks again. No rhyme or reason to when it would work and when it wouldn't. Sometimes it would fill when sitting still. Other times I would have to goose it in reverse for 20 yards to make it take a prime. Other times it would hold prime between auto cycles while moving forward. Frustrating. Time for some modifications.
The only other issue is one I've been watching since late last season. I've had an intermittent miss or slip while taking off from a dead stop. I've been trying to identify if it was the prop blowing out or if I had a cylinder cutting in and out. Once up on plane it clears up. Weird and hard to put a finger on it. Since it didn't do it from new, I'm leaning toward the cylinder. The Merc guy at Bass Pro said that there was a batch of that series of engine that had some coil problems and that's pretty much what it acts like. I'll get it over to him and post what comes of it. Other than that, two trips to Florida and back and one to Lake Michigan and back, and nothing is the worse for wear. I did have my spare fuel tank just sitting on the deck for the trip home with about three gallons left in it...it wore four little spots on the deck to the point were the non-slip nubs are gone. I had it tied in but not tied down, my bad. Inner treads on the tires are worn, outers look new. Now if it will just warm up here.


----------



## AHL_1901

Awesome. Your going to need to post more pictures...

Sent from my Nexus 10


----------



## Reloder28

reel legs said:


> I purchased this boat to LEARN, not to bust my wallet. That's what college was for.
> 
> Common sense goes a long way.


College educations don't include common sense.


----------



## rgourley11

*Trolling motor*

Hey highanddryinco.
Looking at getting the riptide 55lb with 48" with i-pilot, but not sure if it will hold the boat in postion. What trust and length do you have. Thanks


----------



## highanddryinco

I'm using the 80#, 54", w/two group 27 Optima Blue tops. Quick release mount as well.


----------



## highanddryinco

Oh and Joebucko, I did get the Carver 71017NP cover you mentioned. Thanks for the recommendation. Plenty of width, maybe even more than I needed. I ended up traveling without it and just using the console cover. Even as good as it fit, I couldn't get the flapping balloon syndrome out of it enough for my satisfaction. I was afraid it would beat itself to death after 50 hours on the road.
For anyone interested...$173 at BoatersOutlet.com out of Utah. Included shipping, tie down kit and a storage bag. Heck of a price!


----------



## rgourley11

highanddryinco said:


> I'm using the 80#, 54", w/two group 27 Optima Blue tops. Quick release mount as well.


The plate in the second pic come with the trolling motor or you purchased it from somewhere, if so where. Thanks


----------



## highanddryinco

Not with it unfortunately. On the photo, the two lower plates are Starboard scrap I used to get the flush height and the angle I wanted. The little square "puck" on top of that is part of the Minn Kota RTA 17 quick release mount. The other unseen part bolts to the bottom of the trolling motor, gets set on top of the puck, and gets secured together by a U shaped steel locking pin via the two horizontal holes. Bought mine on Amazon.com. Check around...prices vary quite a bit. Should find it around $70.


----------



## rgourley11

*Bimini Top*

Anyone looked at putting a Bimini top on there boat.
Looking at putting one on mine for when the wife goes she cant handle the sun.
From inside gunnel to gunnel measure 72 1/2". looking at a 6ft long by 46" to 54" height.


----------



## rgourley11

*Live well fix*

Well got the boat back from BPS today with the fixed live well i hope. They installed a upright high capacity pump and a EZ-pick up. Will give it a try this weekend to see. Also added the Scotty flush mount rod holders to the front and rear.


----------



## highanddryinco

Looks nice rgourley11. By all means lets us know how the pick up works. Did you ever actually have any problems with the original setup? Your first test report said it worked.
I ask because I see all they did was add the EZ Pump over the existing pick up. In one the earlier posts by FlatsCat it looked like they swapped the inlet and outlet and added the EZ Pump. Then traxxxas01 mentioned that there was an engineering change. My boat is going in to the dealer on the 18th to address the engine miss under warranty
as well as hopefully the livewell pick-up problem.

*traxxxas01*, just wondering is there a service bulletin or something that my local dealer can actually look up to update it to the new engineering standard while I have it in the shop. I'll drop you a PM as well.


----------



## rgourley11

highanddryinco said:


> Looks nice rgourley11. By all means lets us know how the pick up works. Did you ever actually have any problems with the original setup? Your first test report said it worked.
> I ask because I see all they did was add the EZ Pump over the existing pick up. In one the earlier posts by FlatsCat it looked like they swapped the inlet and outlet and added the EZ Pump. Then traxxxas01 mentioned that there was an engineering change. My boat is going in to the dealer on the 18th to address the engine miss under warranty
> as well as hopefully the livewell pick-up problem.
> 
> *traxxxas01*, just wondering is there a service bulletin or something that my local dealer can actually look up to update it to the new engineering standard while I have it in the shop. I'll drop you a PM as well.


The last time I took the boat to the boat cut in Galveston Bay I ended up having to go in reverse to get the pump to start sucking water. This happen twice. First 3 trips out in boat no problems. Only thing it would not fill on the go. Called the Service guy and they have been installing a little big GPM pump and one that is upright that feeds from the side of the pump. He said this has fixed it on all that they have done with no more problems. I had to buy the EZ-pick up and they installed it when they installed new pump. Only had it in for 2 hours and done. Taking boat out this Saturday so give a report on it.


----------



## Jonc

*Dumb Mistake*

To any of you who have wondered just how thick your hull is below the waterline I can by my own misfortune tell you exactly..... Just finished rigging up my new boat this past week including the new sonar, Minn Kota v2 power drive which all of you have had to put on your engineer hat to accomplish, scotty rod holders and the rest of the gizmos.

The last item to install was the 24 volt on board battery charger which I mounted to the side wall of the aft hull under the casting deck. Now keeping in mind I had my shop manager helping me who is incredibly talented and daily directs the fabrication of numerous outstanding store fixture products for my business. Not a dummy or an apprentice by any stretch.

I would guess the side gunwales on our crafts are approximately 3" thick until the hull breaks inward below the waterline. He drilled the two top holes with no issue then promptly drilled completely thru the hull below the break in the hull which is about 1.5" thick or about half the thickness of just a few inches above.

He never realized that he just needed to break thru the gel coat so there you have it. Not easy to admit but maybe this helps future pro skiff owners on this forum from repeating our mistake.

Fortunately the holes were very small and the 3m 5200 marine grade sealant virtually made them almost disappear for now until fall when I'll have it repaired for good. Other than that mishap all went well and will be in the water soon.


----------



## rgourley11

*Live well report*

Took the boat out this weekend after live well had the new pump installed at BPS and the EZ pickup. Ran it for 2 days with not one problem. Pump ran normal cycles even when I was on full plane. Pumped ever stopped, about time no more pump running with no water coming out. Now to super glue a 1/2" "o" ring on top of the live well gasket to see if that will fix the water coming out of the gap.
*PIC of Bimini top I installed before we went out this weekend*
Great shaded area on boat, wife happy and nice to get out of sun a little.


----------



## eyesneers

I just took my 2012 pro skiff out for the 1st time this last week. After four days on the water- I love the boat! Unfortunately, I also have problems with the baitwell not pumping water. This happens when just sitting there or when on plane. If you get down there and blow air back thru the line from the livewell side it starts working again, until you drive the boat or everyone moves to the front cast deck. Is this the same problem others are having? Do I need to have the EZpump installed or also have a vertical pump put on? Is this covered under the boats warranty or do I expect to pay out of pocket? Thanks for any info


----------



## rgourley11

eyesneers said:


> I just took my 2012 pro skiff out for the 1st time this last week. After four days on the water- I love the boat! Unfortunately, I also have problems with the baitwell not pumping water. This happens when just sitting there or when on plane. If you get down there and blow air back thru the line from the livewell side it starts working again, until you drive the boat or everyone moves to the front cast deck. Is this the same problem others are having? Do I need to have the EZpump installed or also have a vertical pump put on? Is this covered under the boats warranty or do I expect to pay out of pocket? Thanks for any info


BPS install new pump no cost to me. They know there is an on going problem. I would assume there should be some kind of service bulletin by now. The service manager at BPS said they have had to do it to the ones they have sold. the E-Z pick up I had to order online and they installed it no cost when they did the pump.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*really like the bimini top*

rgourley11, love the BT. i'm on the same page as you with the shade for the spouse, nice color too. what brand did you get and what dimensions did you finally settle on?

i'm interested in seeing your livewell gasket idea come to life. post more pics when you getter done!


----------



## rgourley11

This is what I got from Amazon 6' Ft 600 Hd 3 Bow Grey Bimini Boat Top Cover Includes All Hardware. It will fit the boats top gunnel no problem,but if you want it to fit the inside gunnel like I did remark holes on all 3 of the poles, drill out then cut off 1" from ea. Do both sides this way. Its only 46" tall so if your tall you will have to duck down a little when walking under it. From the floor of boat to the canopy is 65". You can set and drive with it up if needed. Only $115.00 shipped. Great material on canvas and poles are 7/8" and thick walled. looked at some in the local boat store for twice to three times as much and canvas was not as thick and as good looking as this one.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

thanks for the pics and product info on the BT. looked on amazon, saw and read other reviewers comments, overall all buyers were happy with the BT as well. another product on my growing bucket list.


----------



## rgourley11

*Livewell gasket*

Here is the pics of a gasket I super glued to the top of the other gasket already installed. I also glued the lip on the boat gasket down where the seat slides back. Moved the back rest up 1 1/2" to have clearance. The extra gasket was 1/2" thick. Ran the boat all weekend with this set up and anyone setting on the front seat did not get wet like before. Gasket held up with no problems. Will keep updating on it to see how it holds up. Got the screen back from BPS they removed when they installed EZ-pickup and instaledl it in the livewell for a better fill drain off. Also added a pic of the new livewell pump set up, BPS installed that I forgot to add last time.


----------



## highanddryinco

Well done. Mine is at the dealer having the Merc miss issue checked out. They're also going to install the EZ-Pump base/cover while it's there. It's been snowing here on and off since we came back from FL with temps finally hitting the 70's this weekend so maybe I'll get to go play on the water a bit.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

rgourley11 said:


> Here is the pics of a gasket I super glued to the top of the other gasket already installed. I also glued the lip on the boat gasket down where the seat slides back. Moved the back rest up 1 1/2" to have clearance. The extra gasket was 1/2" thick. Ran the boat all weekend with this set up and anyone setting on the front seat did not get wet like before. Gasket held up with no problems. Will keep updating on it to see how it holds up. Got the screen back from BPS they removed when they installed EZ-pickup and instaledl it in the livewell for a better fill drain off. Also added a pic of the new livewell pump set up, BPS installed that I forgot to add last time.


Great job and pics. Where did you source your gasket material?


----------



## rgourley11

Got the gasket at Lowes. Here is pic of Led light installed for at night when I am fishing.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

More good stuff there, RG.


----------



## Eat Sleep Fish

Going to try an remember to snap some pics tomorrow of my rod holder setups and a before and after cleanup of the boat it's dirty!


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*The Procrastination Is Over*

The Moon, Stars, Sun, Tide etc. ......and 2.99% financing (yeah baby!!) have aligned themselves to FINALLY get me to make a buying decision on a 2013 Pro Skiff. The fix is in, the factory ordered skiff (17' 60HP w/ upgrade trailer) should be here in south FL, hopefully within the week.

I would like to thank EVERYONE who has contributed to this thread from it's inception. Without this thread, I would still be treading water on how to make a shallow water craft become a reality for me. A special thanks to the following for which I have already in my possession: a front bow cleat (joebucko), Lowrance electronics, stern saver (bryster), bimini top, sea sucker rod holders (rg11), TH Marine CMC PL-65 manual jack plate (reel legs). Soon to be: Scotty rod holders, a watchful eye on the included Mako roto cooler (H&DnCO), mods for stock rod holders and StickIt anchor (joebucko).

That's all for now, pics to follow when the skiff arrives.

Tight lines, cheers!:cheers:


----------



## modestmike

Awesome and congratulations. I hope you enjoy it! I love my tiller version. I went to a local welding shop today and had a grab bar/mini console box/cooler rack put on order. Should be done Monday or Tuesday. From there I'll be adding a tilt/trim switch and tachometer to the mini console box. This boat does everything I need it to and could not be happier.


----------



## highanddryinco

Yup...congrats! Enjoy!


----------



## joebucko

Congratulations FlatscatFl.
I know you are going to enjoy it. Check out the Mako Pro Skiff Mods thread that Bryster started. I just added my twist on the Console Hatch cover.


----------



## Jonc

Atta boy Flatscat!! Congrats on the new boat and will loook forward to your pix. Pat yourself on the back also as your due dilligence and input has also been invaluable in this thread...

Finally tossed my new boat in the drink yesterday for the first time since The march purchase for breaking in. Hard to give much of a review keeping it under 3k RPM but did have problems with the live well as it only worked sporadically. Don't know if it was an air lock or whatever but will need to address that.

The minn Kota round pin plug for the trolling motor is absolutely a piece of junk and won't hold the wires in at all. The first one stripped out and the second one doesn't hold at all.

The good news is the shore station lift setup worked great after I figured all of the dimensions and angles. If anyone needs them, just let me know.

Jonc


----------



## FlatsCatFL

rgourley11 said:


> This is what I got from Amazon 6' Ft 600 Hd 3 Bow Grey Bimini Boat Top Cover Includes All Hardware. It will fit the boats top gunnel no problem,but if you want it to fit the inside gunnel like I did remark holes on all 3 of the poles, drill out then cut off 1" from ea. Do both sides this way. Its only 46" tall so if your tall you will have to duck down a little when walking under it. From the floor of boat to the canopy is 65". You can set and drive with it up if needed. Only $115.00 shipped. Great material on canvas and poles are 7/8" and thick walled. looked at some in the local boat store for twice to three times as much and canvas was not as thick and as good looking as this one.


RG11, i bought the same top that you have. but now I'm second guessing my decision, i'm @ 5'10'' tall. i'm thinking i might need a 54" tall BT for head comfort.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

modestmike said:


> Awesome and congratulations. I hope you enjoy it! I love my tiller version. I went to a local welding shop today and had a grab bar/mini console box/cooler rack put on order. Should be done Monday or Tuesday. From there I'll be adding a tilt/trim switch and tachometer to the mini console box. This boat does everything I need it to and could not be happier.


hey modest mike, let's see some pics of your tricked out tiller when you can.


----------



## modestmike

I will post some pics tomorrow. I got a call from the fab shop today asking to bring my boat in tomorrow so they can install the grab bar. I'm also waiting on my tiller extension handle from strongarm. He's waiting on a shipment of tube that will fit my tiller handle. He said he should receive it tomorrow and will get it made this weekend.


----------



## modestmike

FlatscatFL: here is a mock setup.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

Looking good, MM. A serious flats stalking fishing machine soon.


----------



## rgourley11

FlatsCatFL said:


> RG11, i bought the same top that you have. but now I'm second guessing my decision, i'm @ 5'10'' tall. i'm thinking i might need a 54" tall BT for head comfort.


This one worked for me. But if your a tall guy you will need the 54". They sale a 54"


----------



## cgerace19

Guys, how light is this boat, motor, trailer package? I am thinking about getting the 16' skiff. I have a 25HP already. Can an average size person wheel this boat around?

I like its compact size but unfortunately cannot store it in my garage. Behind the garage is where it must go. And I must put it there by hand. If it is too heavy to move back there, then off to storage and I might as well look for something a tad bigger. 

Thanks and great reviews!

Someone should send this link to Mako.


----------



## joebucko

cgerace19, are you looking at the Tiller model of the CenterConsole? 
The CC is going to be heavier. I have the Pro 17 CC with a 60hpmerc and have to store it beside my garage. I have to move it manually into final position and get it out to hook to my vehicle. This is on level concrete and I don't normally move it more than 10-15'. I imagine the Pro 16 tiller would be much lighter and easier to move.
good luck


----------



## cgerace19

I am looking at the tiller model. I just cannot see info on Mako's site.

I have to move it thru grass in my backyard so this will be tough. I wonder if those trailer dollies make moving a trailer easy.


----------



## modestmike

I move my 17' tiller in my backyard alone without a dolly. I don't exactly have thick grass though. 

I would imagine having the dolly would make it much easier.


----------



## cgerace19

Great to know modestmike. I think I might swing by a bass pro and talk to a salesman.


----------



## Profish00

Get Polaris 4wheeler model trailer dolly


----------



## modestmike

I got mine much cheaper than the one I saw on the "showroom" floor just a week after purchase. I also didn't pay for freight/dealer prep. There's plenty of room to negotiate with them. Out the door price was well below the shown price of the same model before freight/dealer prep and taxes/fees

On top of all that....I was given a $500 gift card plus another $250 or so on the rewards points. .


----------



## Jonc

I have a 16' cc with the 40 hp and I can easily push it around on my concrete shop floor by myself. Actually last weekend myself and my two sons moved it around on a gravel parking lot with no problems at all. Simply put, it moves around with surprising ease.

Jonc


----------



## cgerace19

Thanks Jonc. That is good to know. The grass is the tough part but if it can be moved, then I may be looking into this one to replace my jon boat.


----------



## modestmike

I didn't want to start a new thread so I'll just ask it here. 

Have any of you pro skiff owners considered painting the deck any other color than blinding white? What would be the best route to take? If I were to take it to someone to prep/paint the deck, what should I expect to pay?


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*It's about time!*

Finally!!! Let the Mods begin!!! :fireworks :cheers:


----------



## Brian10

I know it's an inshore boat, but if the conditions were 1-2' waves and 5-10 knot winds, would you feel safe about taking it 10-15 miles offshore? This is a general question for anyone that owns the Pro Skiff.


----------



## texasislandboy

Brian10 said:


> I know it's an inshore boat, but if the conditions were 1-2' waves and 5-10 knot winds, would you feel safe about taking it 10-15 miles offshore? This is a general question for anyone that owns the Pro Skiff.


I dont own one but think of the guys that run a jetski off shore.. you have a hell of a more room for safety gear on the boat.


----------



## modestmike

FlatsCatFL said:


> Finally!!! Let the Mods begin!!! :fireworks :cheers:


Awesome


----------



## Bass pro

Hi,

To anyone with the 17' Mako Skiff... Could you please measure the length of the boat with the breakaway trailer tongue? I have a 20' garage and I am worried that the overall length will still be too long to fit.

Thanks in advance for the help!


----------



## modestmike

The boat is something like 17'6"? + motor + length of tongue. I don't think it will fit....but I've been wrong before.


----------



## SurfFishLife

texasislandboy said:


> I dont own one but think of the guys that run a jetski off shore.. you have a hell of a more room for safety gear on the boat.


True, but a jetski won't fill up with water if it takes a big wave over the bow or stern.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

Bass pro said:


> Hi,
> 
> To anyone with the 17' Mako Skiff... Could you please measure the length of the boat with the breakaway trailer tongue? I have a 20' garage and I am worried that the overall length will still be too long to fit.
> 
> Thanks in advance for the help!


BassPro, FYI, the skiff specs out at 17'-4" on paper. Just took a rough measurement.....from the transom to the engine prop is about 2', with the trailer tongue folded there's still about 1' overage at the front. So, you're looking right at 20' +/- an inch or two. If you turn the engine to right or left lock and angle your theoretical skiff you may possibly clear. Hope this helps.


----------



## Techguy802

New to the site. Nice thread everyone!!! Thinking about buying one myself now! Great source for information here!


----------



## FlatsCatFL

Techguy802 said:


> New to the site. Nice thread everyone!!! Thinking about buying one myself now! Great source for information here!


i completely agree, if i had not found this website and thread i would not be a pro skiff owner today.


----------



## Jonc

Hey guys...

Need some feedback regarding transducer mounting... New boat is finally thru break in and actually had fish in it this past weekend. So far very happy with the boat but surmising from feedback on this thread that the 16' perhaps is not as smooth riding as the 17's all of you guys own. It is amazingly dry but does have the tendency to hull slap a bit in even small wakes. Just my opinion for those of you new guys still shopping for boats.

Any rate, also have a humminbird 597 ci hd di and having trouble getting it dialed in as the depth bounces all over the place. Mounted mine by the strake as did rougerly 11 but wondering if I'm getting too much interference from the bad diverted water? 

Any of you have any mounting place suggestions? As always thanks to all.

Jonc


----------



## modestmike

Very curious as well. I have a stern saver sitting on a shelf in my garage....just waiting to get my boat back from bass pro so I can install it. Keep us informed if you get it figured out. I had sent a pm to the OP asking about his transducer placement and how it's working out but, have not got a response yet.


----------



## Techguy802

I think I am going this week to sign the papers for my new Pro 17! 

I am pretty handy but have had issues with transducers in the past. Should I have the dealer install it? Anyone have experience with dealer installations? Will I still have to "dial" it in myself? 

Thanks in advance for any and all replies!!!


----------



## modestmike

I've never had one before so I have no real world experience with one but from what I've read I doubt it's ever perfect the first time. I would expect the need to make adjustments.


----------



## Jonc

I have mine also mounted on a stern saver modest mike and its the only way to go as adjustment in normal and saves the holes in the boat. I've had numerous boats and have always dialed in my transducer in the past but this one has me stumped. I'm thinking it may be either too close to the aerated water or just a bad unit.


----------



## joebucko

Here's a picture of where I have my 597ci HD DI transducer mounted. In relatively calm water I hold the bottom depth reading pretty much constantly. In moderate to heavy chop I'd say I have the depth reading 95% of the time with only momentarily loss. The sonar signal is a different matter. The standard sonar is too cluttered to use above 8mph but the DI signal seems to be clearly visible at any speed. Because of the angle of the hull the transducer body is positioned pretty deep into the water to ensure everything is below the hull line. This causes a small rooster tail at full speed. I had to play with the depth a bit to get it tuned in. 

One other thing that might make a difference is that I planed(used a small woodworking hand plane) a small angle on the bottom edge of the mounting plate where it lines up with the bottom of the hull to give the water a smoother transition to the transducer. Our transom's are sloped a bit so when the bottom edge of the mounting plate is mounted flush to the bottom of the hull there is a sharp angle the moving water has to pass before encountering the transducer. I eliminated that angle by planing that edge so the water flows smoothly past the transducer. 

As for hull slap I haven't noticed any. That may be a difference between your 16 vs my 17.


----------



## modestmike

Joebucko....is your transducer pointing bow to stern in a straight line? I can't tell from the picture. If not, would that have an effect on the reading?


----------



## Techguy802

Thanks for all of the input! Stern Savor it is along with a self install. I ordered the boat today and hope to take delivery by the weekend! 

This thread was very instrumental in my decision on this boat! Super group of people here sharing a wealth of information! I only hope I can contribute in the future!


----------



## Jonc

Thanks joe bucko... You're the King Kong on this thread. Congrats on the new ride tech guy!


----------



## joebucko

Modestmike,
I am not quite sure what you are asking. The transducer for the Humminbird 597 DI is a bit odd shaped but can only be installed in one direction. It points directly to the rear behind the boat. One of the steps during installation is to determine the angle of the transom then you set the little toothed wheels on the transducer to match that angle. I puzzled over that for quite a while because I could no see any difference in the various settings. Rather than argue I just followed the instructions and it seems to work fine. It seemed to me that the big issue was trying to get the transducer located into the smoothest steadiest stream of water passing under the hull which is why I chose the spot I did. I was frankly a little surprised to see how little water our boats draft at full speed. It makes keeping any transducer submerged a challenge and is the primary source of the 'live well' pickup problem. I can take an overhead shot of the transducer if that would help?


----------



## eyesneers

Bass pro said:


> Hi,
> 
> To anyone with the 17' Mako Skiff... Could you please measure the length of the boat with the breakaway trailer tongue? I have a 20' garage and I am worried that the overall length will still be too long to fit.
> 
> Thanks in advance for the help!


I have a 21 foot garage and had a dealer installed breakaway tongue. With the motor down and tongue folded back there is about 3-5 inches clearance at the garage door(the boat is straight in- not at an angle)


----------



## modestmike

Joebucko. What I was trying to get across was that the transom and sides of the boat are not 90deg to each other. So if you flush mounted the transducer to the stern, it will not be pointing in a straight line front front to rear.


----------



## Techguy802

Anybody tried a T-Top yet? Bass Pro has a lower priced "universal" T-Top that I was considering. This is a down the road mod but still curious.

http://www.basspro.com/TACO-Neptune-TeleShade-Aluminum-TTop/product/10230057/


----------



## joebucko

ModestMike you are correct. There is a slight angle on the transom. I made sure that the transducer was mounted parallel to the water so it would shoot straight down but did not try and adjust for the slight angle on the transom. It turns out that this slight angle does little to affect the actual reading of the sonar much. I know that because in 30ft of water I can stand on the stern and jig directly behind the boat and can see my jig clearly on the sonar screen.


----------



## modestmike

I get what you're saying, Joebucko. Do you think the position of the transducer may cause more unneeded turbulence in the water by catching the side of it instead of head on? It would seem to me that the transducer would be pushing/dragging in the water mounted like that instead of skimming through it. 

I am in no way qualified to give any advice on the matter so take it for what it's worth. I'm looking for real world feedback before I mount mine.


----------



## joebucko

modestmike
The transducer does sit at a slight angle to the passing water. I never thought about it but it is certainly possible that this position creates some additional turbulence. It won't take much to shim it to the point that it is straight. I will be taking my boat out on Thursday so I'll take a little time tomorrow and shim the transducer and see if it makes a difference. I'll let you know what I find out. As I stated earlier my setup works pretty well as it is configured but if I can improve the performance with this kind of tweaking that would be great. Thanks for the suggestion.


----------



## Jonc

I think you guys are on to something JoeB and Modest Mike". It just dawned on me that last weekend I had someone else drive my boat as I watched the rooster tale/wake on the back of the boat. I get kind of a weird outward side spray which I assumed was from the strakes on both side of the stern diverting the aerated water away from the prop. 

With this said, my trandsducucer is right in the line of fire which may explain the reason why my depth is bouncing around everywhere. I have about a foot less beam than you guys have which may be exacerbating the problem.

Jonc


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*I love this thread*

Thanks many times, Bryster for starting this thread. I think single handedly you and other Pro Skiff owners-mainly in Texas land-have formed a Mako Pro Skiff Nation following. Tracker Marine should be sending you guys bonus referral checks, lol!!

I am extremely happy to finally own a skiff-even with name Mako on it- that has the ability to ALMOST pole the most shallow waters with the best dedicated MicroSkiffs AND be able to tackle the little snot outside for offshore quarry. All this with a consistently dry and comfortable ride. Let's not forget, even the most expensive shallow freeboard vessels out there will get you wet in a chop with a wind in your face.

Mako, to the chagrin of all of it's old school naysayers, has produced one of the most versatile, and affordable(!!!!) coastal vessel packages with the MPS17. The re-invention of the "Hickman Sled Hull" nee Advanced Inverted Hull, may very well, finally have it's hey-day in the form of the Mako Pro Skiff.

Tight lines all, Cheers!


----------



## joebucko

Shimming the transducer really helped. The slope of the hull is a lot greater than I thought. Prior to shimming my regular sonar cut out above 8mph although the depth sounder and DI worked fine. Shimmed the regular sonar now works clearly up to 20 mph. No change in the DI or depth sounding. My rooster tail is also pretty much gone.


----------



## modestmike

joebucko said:


> Shimming the transducer really helped. The slope of the hull is a lot greater than I thought. Prior to shimming my regular sonar cut out above 8mph although the depth sounder and DI worked fine. Shimmed the regular sonar now works clearly up to 20 mph. No change in the DI or depth sounding. My rooster tail is also pretty much gone.


Good to know! Post up a pic of how it's shimmed if you don't mind.


----------



## joebucko

The angle on the transom is more severe than I originally thought. The shim I made for the transducer corrects that problem entirely. This idea should work for any brand transducer because the angle on the transom is going to be the same for these boats.

The shim needs to be at least 2.5" X 2.5" to sit behind the Humminbird 597 DI transducer. I cut a scrap piece of 1/2" thick Starboard into a 2.5" wide strip. Made a simple jig for my bandsaw and sliced through the starboard at an angle. This resulted in a shim 2.5" X 2.5" square. The outside edge (thickest edge) is 1/2" tapering to 0" on the inside. 

I put a long straightedge across the flat part of the transom below the motor and used a square to check the resulting angle of the transducer. The centerline of the transducer is now exactly parallel to the long axis of the boat. As I said in my previous post I ran the boat this morning and saw dramatic improvement in the sonar.


----------



## modestmike

That looks really good JoeB.


----------



## modestmike

I got my boat back today and planned on installing my stern saver tonight but, it looks like its going to rain soon so I'll wait until another day. 

JoeBucko....You should make some spares and sell them! I know I'd buy one from you.


----------



## texasislandboy

modestmike said:


> I got my boat back today and planned on installing my stern saver tonight but, it looks like its going to rain soon so I'll wait until another day.
> 
> JoeBucko....You should make some spares and sell them! I know I'd buy one from you.


was yours the one at basspro with all the saltlife stickers on it?


----------



## modestmike

texasislandboy said:


> was yours the one at basspro with all the saltlife stickers on it?


It is not. Mine is the tiller with a grab bar.


----------



## texasislandboy

modestmike said:


> It is not. Mine is the tiller with a grab bar.


ahh cool!


----------



## modestmike

I was able to try out my new strongarm tiller extension handle today and I couldn't be any happier. The guys at bass pro did a great job wiring up a trim switch and tach on my grab bar but, I think the tach is not reading correctly. 

Should a mercury 25hp 4 stroke idle at 1k? It certainly doesn't feel like 1k.


----------



## texasislandboy

modestmike said:


> I was able to try out my new strongarm tiller extension handle today and I couldn't be any happier. The guys at bass pro did a great job wiring up a trim switch on my grab bar but, I think the tach is not reading correctly.
> 
> Should a mercury 25hp 4 stroke idle at 1k? It certainly doesn't feel like 1k.


whats your WOT rpm? I would guess it should be around 750-850


----------



## modestmike

6100....but it sure doesn't feel or sound like it.


----------



## Techguy802

I am loving reading this stuff! I love the shim you made Joebucko and the details you provided! I really can't wait to pick my ride up! 

Again, thanks for all of the input!


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*Mods and Maiden Voyage*

Another great mod JB. I put my Stern Saver on a couple of days ago. I don't have a band saw so I'll have to be creative to get that slope.

I took the Pro Skiff out today for her maiden voyage. We had a really big down pour just before the launch so I took out the drain plug. You guessed it, I forgot to put it back in which made for a little more drama than I needed for my first launch, lol. My trailer also has the bunks most of the way up to the front of the trailer. The back wheels of my Escape were in the water before I could push her off to float. If that becomes the norm, I may need to add some slippery PVC inserts on those bunks!

She ran sewing machine smooth in some fresh water canals near the house. We crossed other boats wakes @ 3500 rpm and she felt very solid on the bounce. I didn't wet test the Skiff before trailering home so I had no predilection of it's performance other than everyone's write ups here.

The mechanical steering was much more stiff than I thought it would be and the throttle and shift lever mechanism were quite stiff also. I'm hoping these two items will loosen up a bit as the hours build up some.

Add ons so far are the front bow cleat, the Stern Saver, a 54"x 8' 4 bow Bimini top and some LugBudz for the trailer wheels.

Cheers!


----------



## modestmike

Sounds like a fun day, Flatscat. 

When did you install the stern saver? I put mine on this morning and was wondering if it would be okay to put the boat in the water tomorrow.


----------



## KeithD.

*Couple of questions*

modestmike,
I was wondering if you could tell how you were able to get your boat at a cheaper price. I am thinking hard about getting one of these skiffs. I see alot of people are running 12volt trolling motors and not 24volt. What are the reasons for this. Is it weight or something else. My other mako was setup for 24 volts and I was wondering if it was really necessary on this one.

Thanks everyone for this thread I have been reading it for the past couple of days and it has really helped in making a decision to purchase one.

Does anyone know how long the special financing is going to be available?


----------



## MarkU

KeithD. I have the 12 volt 55# riptide on mine. It moves the boat fine. I don't see a problem running a 24 volt motor. IMO, you'll just be spending extra $$$, and adding weight.


----------



## joebucko

I second Mark's comments about the trolling motor. I run a 55# Terrova iPilot and it moves the boat very well. the step up to the 24v will certainly give you more power at the expense of additional weight and cost. Space is at a premium on the boat so another battery uses up some of the under deck space.


----------



## KeithD.

*Pro Skiff*

Thats what I was thinking as well. Are you getting good run time on the trolling motors? What battery are you guys running. I was wondering if someone could give me the widest diminsion of the boat and trailer? I need to make sure when I back it up along side the house that I can get it through my gates which are 10 feet wide. Thanks


----------



## MarkU

Keith, I know the width of the entire rig is under 8'. As far as the battery life goes. I may run my trolling motor for 2 hours tops. Never had a problem. I have the Academy special deep cycle. I can use it all weekend without recharging.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

modestmike said:


> Sounds like a fun day, Flatscat.
> 
> When did you install the stern saver? I put mine on this morning and was wondering if it would be okay to put the boat in the water tomorrow.


MM, the paperwork says allow 24 hrs. cure time on the adhesive before attaching anything to it.


----------



## joebucko

Keith D.
I had to widen my gates when I got the boat. My gate opening is now 96" and I can back my trailer carefully through it. My trailer also has the upright guide bars which probably makes it a little wider than one without.

My 55# Terrova is digital and I use a Gp27 Deep cycle battery with it. I normally run it 3-4 hours and my onboard charger will bring it back to full in about 1/2 hour when I get home. I suspect I could probably run the motor for 3-4 normal trips before charging but I read that prompt charging is the key to longer life of the batteries so I just top it off when I get home.


----------



## Ox Eye

I am going into the sixth summer with a 16' cc Key Largo bay boat with a 50 hp Yamaha 2 stroke. This boat's been in the shop with engine problems almost as much as it's been on the water. I have been seriously casting looks at the Mako 17 ' w/60hp Mercury. From what I've read in this thread, I likely wouldnt be making a mistake.

I have been impressed with with all the do-it-yourself modifications and add-ons you guys have done. But, I have seen very little mention of any issues with the Mercury engine. Can I assume it's because there haven't been any? I ask this because the boat I have is already set up the way I like it ... and I'm thinking maybe what I really need is a Mercury.

Think I'm on to something???


----------



## modestmike

FlatsCatFL said:


> MM, the paperwork says allow 24 hrs. cure time on the adhesive before attaching anything to it.


I must've read the paper 10x and all it said was to wait 4-6 hours to attach things to it with no mention of how long to keep it out of water.


----------



## Jonc

Hey Keith D. 

I'm running a twenty four volt system on my trolling motore which is a fifty five pound minn Kota unit. Ran it pretty good for a few days and barely used any battery according to the volt meter on the unit. The extra weight doesn't seem to affect the boats performance at all.

Jonc


----------



## Jonc

*Pro Skiff 16 Review*

Since it appears I'm the only one on this thread with a Pro Skiff 16 I thought I'd offer my read on this craft for future readers considering purchasing one. I've had the opportunity to get her broke in and fished hard over the past several weeks and overall, it's a sweet little fishing machine with a few exceptions.

I liken my due dilligence to FlatsCats efforts as I spent quite a bit of time during the winter months up here reading everything I could on the Mako skiff and was really at odds as to which model would best suit my fishing needs. 95% of my fishing is on small Indiana fresh water lakes so the need for speed, inclimate weather, ruff surf, etc. we're all non issues with me. Being a fly fisherman most of my fishing is solo or with one other buddy so space was also not a big issue.
The final point was overall weight as I figured the lighter craft would be easier to tow on the occasional trip to Florida fishing the flats.

With 2 fisherman on board the boat rides smooth and dry and gets up to plane effortlessly with the 40 hp Mercury. At 6k rpm the the best speed hit 28 mph providing my gps was acurate which is plenty fast on small lakes. Standing each on the bow and stern decks the boat tips a bit port and starboard due to the smaller beam width but nothing that makes you feel uncomfortable. I've not had 3 fisherman on board but I imagine it would be a bit cramped doing so due to the only faults I have found so far with this boat.

The helm and cooler seat are the same size as the 17 and you wouldn't think the 10" reduction in beam width from the 17 would make a difference but it does.
Stepping off the stern deck with a pole in one hand and a fish in the other is a real balancing act and almost dangerous since there's almost no room to place your foot except next to the gunwales. I actually found myself stepping from the deck to the cooler seat and then grabbing the hand rail for balance just to get to the aerated tank.

Walking around the helm particularly with rods in the holders is a sideways tip toe also holding on to the grab rail. Unlike you big fish guys down in Texas there's plenty of room in the live well for the keeper fish we hunt up north such as blue gill, crappie, perch and walleye. With this said I simply removed the cooler seat as I only used it for dry storage which really opened the stern of the boat for safe and comfortable fishing and at least to me the boat is much easier to drive standing up than sitting down.

At the end of the day, I love the boat as its a great little fishing machine for my needs just wish they would have reconfigured the cooler seat and perhaps the helm for the smaller beam width.


----------



## joebucko

Good write up JONC. For a simple basic boat the Mako Pro 16 & 17 are about as good as they come.


----------



## joebucko

*Megaware keelGuards not recommended for ProSkiff*

I ordered two 5ft Keelguards for my Mako Pro Skiff only to find out after receiving them that Keelguards do not fit all boats including anything resembling a catamaran. This was not apparent from the marketing information I reviewed. Fortunately I had contacted Megaware before I started installation and they were very helpful in looking at pictures of my hull before telling me not to attempt an install.

I am getting a little wear on my keels at the very front where they flatten out. I use concrete ramps and when I launch by myself I float the boat off the trailer then pull the boat gently up on the ramp. In the future I will drive it off the trailer and use the dock.

Anybody else having a similar problem and what have you done about it?


----------



## KeithD.

*Wait Time On Ordering*

What have you guys been experiencing with the wait time as far as when you order to when you are receiving the boat. Thanks


----------



## modestmike

In the other mako thread I posted about running through some oil that really made my boat dirty. I'm guessing that's a good thing because today I noticed three large holes in the hull of the boat from the mounting screws in the grab bar. The shop who made and installed the grab bar is getting it fixed. I'm not saying who did it even though I should because he was great to work with and I couldn't be happier with with grab bar(except for the holes in the hull)...but it's getting fixed. **** happens and I'm okay with that. I would still recommend their shop to get work done as they are very professional and stand by their work.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

rgourley11 said:


> This is what I got from Amazon 6' Ft 600 Hd 3 Bow Grey Bimini Boat Top Cover Includes All Hardware. It will fit the boats top gunnel no problem,but if you want it to fit the inside gunnel like I did remark holes on all 3 of the poles, drill out then cut off 1" from ea. Do both sides this way. Its only 46" tall so if your tall you will have to duck down a little when walking under it. From the floor of boat to the canopy is 65". You can set and drive with it up if needed. Only $115.00 shipped. Great material on canvas and poles are 7/8" and thick walled. looked at some in the local boat store for twice to three times as much and canvas was not as thick and as good looking as this one.


Hey there rgourly11, my Bimini top is up and running. I ended up getting the 54" 4-bow top in grey. I used your idea cutting and reducing the framework @ 1" at connection points. The inside install looks clean and will also allow me options for future gunnel applications such as a push pole holder etc.
cheers!


----------



## rgourley11

FlatsCatFL said:


> Hey there rgourly11, my Bimini top is up and running. I ended up getting the 54" 4-bow top in grey. I used your idea cutting and reducing the framework @ 1" at connection points. The inside install looks clean and will also allow me options for future gunnel applications such as a push pole holder etc.
> cheers!


looks good. You will like it. Had to use mine last week temps running 96 and with the sun beaming down on me it felt like 110. Got under it and with the wind it was a lot better.


----------



## Techguy802

FlatsCatFL said:


> Hey there rgourly11, my Bimini top is up and running. I ended up getting the 54" 4-bow top in grey. I used your idea cutting and reducing the framework @ 1" at connection points. The inside install looks clean and will also allow me options for future gunnel applications such as a push pole holder etc.
> cheers!


Hey FlatsCatFL! Looks great! Would you mind taking a couple of closer picks pointing out what you cut shorter? I think I am going to add a Bimini to mine. I am pretty sure I saw an earlier post with a link to where you ordered it from.

So far I have had mine for a week. I ran it almost all last weekend. I am very impressed with the way it handles wake and rougher water!

The only Mod I have made is adding the trailer guides, which I found out when loading that the 40" poles are too short for the steep ramp I am using. I am going to increase the size to either 48" or even larger.

Also, I have already had a cooler rubber latch break when my wife tried latching it. Trust me when I say that I am sure that she didn't overpower it.

I hope in the next week or two to get some video of the boat running in large boat wake or rougher water, not that I want the rough water. I know several have asked and I wanted to see some before I ordered mine.

Also someone asked about delivery time after ordering. My Bass Pro Store was less than cooperative on this. I understood if they were busy and if they would have simply contacted me and said it would be a couple of weeks I would have understood, but even after asking several times and making two trips to Bass Pro after signing an agreement there, it took getting the Customer Service Folks who called me for a review of my experience and the local store manager to get involved before I was given a tentative time frame. This came 4 1/2 days after signing. I took delivery one week after that, or about 1 1/2 weeks from signing a sales agreement. Also, they had the boats in stock when I signed and the sales 
man said it should only be a couple of days.

All in all I love the boat so far though!


----------



## FlatsCatFL

hey, techguy802. i'll snap a few pics this weekend for you. 

the basic concept is to shorten the female ends of the frame at the top connecting points by about one inch. if you have a 3 bow bimini, that would be six cuts. after you make the cuts you will still need to re-drill the holes for the spring loaded locking button. a vise, hacksaw, emery cloth, tape measure and hand drill with correct bit size is about all you need.

cheers!


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*Standing Water in Rigging Tube*

Anyone experiencing standing water in the rigging tube exit at the rear of the boat? I was fishing a pull string the other night for my FF/SONAR unit and noticed this standing water. I was thinking that this indentation would drain into the lower boat hull drain but it does not. In fact there is NO drain relief at all!! Any feedback would be appreciated. Cheers!


----------



## highanddryinco

FlatsCatFL said:


> Anyone experiencing standing water in the rigging tube exit at the rear of the boat? I was fishing a pull string the other night for my FF/SONAR unit and noticed this standing water. I was thinking that this indentation would drain into the lower boat hull drain but it does not. In fact there is NO drain relief at all!! Any feedback would be appreciated. Cheers!


Yep, that's one of the "what were they thinking" questions I've had for a long time. Simple answer is, "they weren't." 
Here in CO, they're really big on Division of Wildlife pre-launch inspections for fear of more zebra mussels coming in to our lakes. Your boat must be bone dry before they'll let you launch. Every time I get home, I take a length of 1/4" tubing, stick it in the bottom of that well, and start a siphon. Then I wipe it out with a sponge. A little bit of a pain but not too bad.


----------



## Jonc

Wasn't that a fun experience fishing that string thru flatscat with all of the gracious space they allowed to do so? They obviously insert all of their cables before the liner is inserted but installing a small tube for sonar or accesories to me seems like an obvious engineering must.

I left my pull string in the tube just in case I had to fish something else at a later date not to mention that I depleted by profanity vocabulary doing so the first time. Home you're enjoying the new ride!

Jonc


----------



## FlatsCatFL

highanddryinco said:


> Yep, that's one of the "what were they thinking" questions I've had for a long time. Simple answer is, "they weren't."
> Here in CO, they're really big on Division of Wildlife pre-launch inspections for fear of more zebra mussels coming in to our lakes. Your boat must be bone dry before they'll let you launch. Every time I get home, I take a length of 1/4" tubing, stick it in the bottom of that well, and start a siphon. Then I wipe it out with a sponge. A little bit of a pain but not too bad.


I wonder what the implications might be if we're to make a proper hole, PVC sleeve it and use a standard drain plug to cap it. My skiff has two transom drain orifices, one for the deck and one for below deck. It would seem that my idea would allow below deck drain out. What do you think, highanddryinco?


----------



## FlatsCatFL

Jonc said:


> Wasn't that a fun experience fishing that string thru flatscat with all of the gracious space they allowed to do so? They obviously insert all of their cables before the liner is inserted but installing a small tube for sonar or accesories to me seems like an obvious engineering must.
> 
> I left my pull string in the tube just in case I had to fish something else at a later date not to mention that I depleted by profanity vocabulary doing so the first time. Home you're enjoying the new ride!
> 
> Jonc


Yeah, I roger the expletive overload on that exercise too. I fish low voltage wires daily and have a lot of patience, but that jammed up tube on my knees ****** me off-lol. I am also leaving a spare string for the next one.

I plan to get another couple of hours on the water tomorrow (Saturday) for more engine break in.


----------



## highanddryinco

Well it's nice to see great minds think alike. Sounds like most of us have left that string in the tube for future pulls. 
FlatsCat, I get what you're saying and it would probably work. That said...let me know how it works out for you. Not knowing whats between that well and the transom, I'm not sure I've got the huevos to punch that hole. I looked up the lower drain port with a flashlight last night after reading your post and I still don't have clear picture of what might be up there. We do have a bore scope at work and I may borrow it to take a closer look.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*engine break in*

today i was on the fresh water canal systems putting some more break in time on the engine. while putting the engine through it's paces i got a surprise from the live well.

while running in the upper RPM range for a bit the live well flooded into the boat. i have the newer EZ pump cover over the stern intake. a vacuum situation must have occurred while running, filling the live well to overload capacity, big surprise! after a bit of head scratching i began fiddling with the aerator nozzle and realized i could screw it in and cut off the water supply....who knew? not me obviously, chalk it up to the new boat owner learning curve.

the engine was running fine, so i started pushing it to the limits of WOT for the indicated one minute in the users manual. after about 45 seconds the engine began to miss fire slightly. it became worse so i backed her down to a mid range cruise still feeling the subtle vibration of an engine literally not hitting on all cylinders. so i motored back to the ramp and that was the end of that.

back at the house, i checked the fuel filter...no water. the fuel was only 3 weeks old and was marine grade fuel. i had used the same fuel two weeks before on the first run with no issues. so now i have a new engine with about three hours on the meter with a miss.

highanddryinco, maybe you can chime in on this. i know you mentioned an engine miss a while back.

love being able to get on the water, not loving engine issues at three engine hours! cheers!


----------



## FlatsCatFL

FlatsCatFL said:


> hey, techguy802. i'll snap a few pics this weekend for you.
> 
> the basic concept is to shorten the female ends of the frame at the top connecting points by about one inch. if you have a 3 bow bimini, that would be six cuts. after you make the cuts you will still need to re-drill the holes for the spring loaded locking button. a vise, hacksaw, emery cloth, tape measure and hand drill with correct bit size is about all you need.
> 
> cheers!


Here's a pic of the joint connection. The elbow piece on the right is the female side you would cut. After the cut, measure the distance needed for the drilled hole to line up with the locking button on the male brace.


----------



## highanddryinco

Hi FlatsCat. As much as I hate to say, I haven't been on any water that I can run the "big" motor since I had the boat in the shop. There's a nice lake by our house that I've been on several times but it's an under 10HP only deal. I just run the trolling motor. 
What I had been getting was a miss while under hard acceleration. The more load, i.e the more people in the boat, the worse it would act up. Once up on plane, things would clear up and it would run WOT with no issues. Of course it functioned perfectly while they had it on the dyno in the shop. Go figure. The interesting thing was the other warranty problem I had it in the shop for was that my fuel connector had developed a leak. While the boat would sit in the garage, even with the tank vented, the connector would leak onto the boat deck. Obviously the smell in the garage and the stain on the deck that I had to clean up regularly had me concerned. The tech at bass pro did a bit more checking and running and said that he believed that same connector that was causing the external leak was drawing air into the system while running. It makes sense and my leak and that miss probably showed up at roughly the same time. The main problem is...work is getting in the way of me getting out on the water. That's just not right!
As for your issue, make sure your tank vent is open and functioning. Make sure the line connections are tight. And perhaps have someone pump the primer bulb while you're running next time and see if that clears up the miss.

Good Luck.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

highanddryinco said:


> Hi FlatsCat. As much as I hate to say, I haven't been on any water that I can run the "big" motor since I had the boat in the shop. There's a nice lake by our house that I've been on several times but it's an under 10HP only deal. I just run the trolling motor.
> What I had been getting was a miss while under hard acceleration. The more load, i.e the more people in the boat, the worse it would act up. Once up on plane, things would clear up and it would run WOT with no issues. Of course it functioned perfectly while they had it on the dyno in the shop. Go figure. The interesting thing was the other warranty problem I had it in the shop for was that my fuel connector had developed a leak. While the boat would sit in the garage, even with the tank vented, the connector would leak onto the boat deck. Obviously the smell in the garage and the stain on the deck that I had to clean up regularly had me concerned. The tech at bass pro did a bit more checking and running and said that he believed that same connector that was causing the external leak was drawing air into the system while running. It makes sense and my leak and that miss probably showed up at roughly the same time. The main problem is...work is getting in the way of me getting out on the water. That's just not right!
> As for your issue, make sure your tank vent is open and functioning. Make sure the line connections are tight. And perhaps have someone pump the primer bulb while you're running next time and see if that clears up the miss.
> 
> Good Luck.


Thanks highanddryinco for the reply, it's much appreciated. Cheers!


----------



## Techguy802

FlatsCatFL said:


> Here's a pic of the joint connection. The elbow piece on the right is the female side you would cut. After the cut, measure the distance needed for the drilled hole to line up with the locking button on the male brace.


Thanks FlatsCatFL! Any chance you could share the part number of the taller Bimini? I see several with varying prices and reviews on Amazon.

I am paying attention to all of the suggestions!

I too noticed the water coming from the live well at higher speeds. I was under the impression that there might be some sort of valve back by the pump but haven't looked yet. I will definitely try to just close the nozzle.

In two weekends I have about 13 hours on the boat. I paid close attention to the break in and am now starting some longer runs at higher rpms / wot. I have also started adjusting the trim some and gained about 4 mph today with 4 passengers and a full bait well! (Didn't have it closed off. :smile We had to make a dash in because the afternoon storms were early today. The boat ran beautifully! Crossed a lot of larger wakes and we all stayed dry and didn't get beat up! I am more impressed today than before!

Thanks for all of the help!


----------



## FlatsCatFL

Techguy802 said:


> Thanks FlatsCatFL! Any chance you could share the part number of the taller Bimini? I see several with varying prices and reviews on Amazon.
> 
> I am paying attention to all of the suggestions!
> 
> I too noticed the water coming from the live well at higher speeds. I was under the impression that there might be some sort of valve back by the pump but haven't looked yet. I will definitely try to just close the nozzle.
> 
> In two weekends I have about 13 hours on the boat. I paid close attention to the break in and am now starting some longer runs at higher rpms / wot. I have also started adjusting the trim some and gained about 4 mph today with 4 passengers and a full bait well! (Didn't have it closed off. :smile We had to make a dash in because the afternoon storms were early today. The boat ran beautifully! Crossed a lot of larger wakes and we all stayed dry and didn't get beat up! I am more impressed today than before!
> 
> Thanks for all of the help!


below is the info for the bimini top, i got it from Amazon:
Brand	:KapscoMoto
Manufacturer Part Number	4H5W78-GRY

I'm about 5' 10", the BT just grazes the top of my head when installed on the inside gunnel mounting surface.

there is no "shut off" pitcock ahead of the live well. the aerator nozzle seems to be the governor for unwanted water intrusion to the live well. cheers!


----------



## KeithD.

*Skiff Question*

I picked mine up Saturday and started break in Sunday. So far so good. Everything seems to be working well. I have a couple of questions for you guys.

(1) Are you guys doing anything to help hold the gas tank from moving other than the provided strap?

For the guys who have installed Bimini tops:

I see you guys are mounting them on the inside which looks nice. I was wondering if you are attaching it with sheet metal screws or found a way to through bolt it.

I figured I could secure the batteries a little better with battery trays.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

highanddryinco said:


> Hi FlatsCat. As much as I hate to say, I haven't been on any water that I can run the "big" motor since I had the boat in the shop. There's a nice lake by our house that I've been on several times but it's an under 10HP only deal. I just run the trolling motor.
> What I had been getting was a miss while under hard acceleration. The more load, i.e the more people in the boat, the worse it would act up. Once up on plane, things would clear up and it would run WOT with no issues. Of course it functioned perfectly while they had it on the dyno in the shop. Go figure. The interesting thing was the other warranty problem I had it in the shop for was that my fuel connector had developed a leak. While the boat would sit in the garage, even with the tank vented, the connector would leak onto the boat deck. Obviously the smell in the garage and the stain on the deck that I had to clean up regularly had me concerned. The tech at bass pro did a bit more checking and running and said that he believed that same connector that was causing the external leak was drawing air into the system while running. It makes sense and my leak and that miss probably showed up at roughly the same time. The main problem is...work is getting in the way of me getting out on the water. That's just not right!
> As for your issue, make sure your tank vent is open and functioning. Make sure the line connections are tight. And perhaps have someone pump the primer bulb while you're running next time and see if that clears up the miss.
> 
> Good Luck.





KeithD. said:


> I picked mine up Saturday and started break in Sunday. So far so good. Everything seems to be working well. I have a couple of questions for you guys.
> 
> (1) Are you guys doing anything to help hold the gas tank from moving other than the provided strap?
> 
> For the guys who have installed Bimini tops:
> 
> I see you guys are mounting them on the inside which looks nice. I was wondering if you are attaching it with sheet metal screws or found a way to through bolt it.
> 
> I figured I could secure the batteries a little better with battery trays.


Hi, KeithD. 
On the question of the Bimini top, I used the supplied hardware and some 4200 for a little extra waterproofing and holding power. This is not a thru bolt application. If you feel the need to thru bolt, then the outside edge of the gunnel is your best bet. 
Congrats on your new sled. You're just down I-95 from me in Hollyrock. Cheers!


----------



## highanddryinco

KeithD. said:


> I picked mine up Saturday and started break in Sunday. So far so good. Everything seems to be working well. I have a couple of questions for you guys.
> 
> (1) Are you guys doing anything to help hold the gas tank from moving other than the provided strap?
> 
> For the guys who have installed Bimini tops:
> 
> I see you guys are mounting them on the inside which looks nice. I was wondering if you are attaching it with sheet metal screws or found a way to through bolt it.
> 
> I figured I could secure the batteries a little better with battery trays.


Congrats KeithD.
I do have a piece of rubber dry deck type material that I put under my tank but the main simple thing...run that hold down strap forward of the hand hold post instead of between the two posts the way it probably came. That way it's pulling down and back and keeps things much more snug.
I also put some dry deck under the battery box. Seems to stay in place pretty good.
Also, just my own anal retentive problem...but I felt the need to redo the straps with hooks and cam buckles so I could get a little more leverage when I snug things down. Also much quicker to quick release the tank for re-fueling purposes.

Have fun!:mpd:


----------



## KeithD.

*Skiff*

Yes I did the same thing with the straps for more leverage. I will try the tank idea by relocating it in front of the handle.

(1) Is anyone carrying a regular anchor?

I have an anchor pin but I was thinking about getting a regular one for deeper water. What size and type are you using?

(2) What size and type are you using?

Thanks for all the help guys. I have completed the first two hours of break in this past weekend and hope to get a couple more this weekend.


----------



## joebucko

On the subject of Tie Down straps for the fuel tanks and batteries. On my boat I noticed I was getting some rust around the screws on the Strap Eyes holding these tie down straps. Everything else on my boat appeared to be stainless but these Strap Eyes are the original ones that came with the tie down straps and were chrome plated steel. I got lucky and found exact Stainless Steel replacements pretty cheap. The screw holes in the deck lined up perfectly so I replaced them. $2.44 each seemed reasonable. If you have the same issue you can get them from Downwind marine: http://www.downwindmarine.com/Sea-Dog-Tie-Down-Eye-Strap-Stainless-Steel-p-91002073.html


----------



## FlatsCatFL

KeithD. said:


> Yes I did the same thing with the straps for more leverage. I will try the tank idea by relocating it in front of the handle.
> 
> (1) Is anyone carrying a regular anchor?
> 
> I have an anchor pin but I was thinking about getting a regular one for deeper water. What size and type are you using?
> 
> (2) What size and type are you using?
> 
> Thanks for all the help guys. I have completed the first two hours of break in this past weekend and hope to get a couple more this weekend.


KeithD, I am carrying a 20# vinyl three pronged river anchor for the same reasons you mentioned.


----------



## modestmike

I'll be heading 8 miles offshore in my skiff tomorrow. Swell report is calling for 1.5' seas tomorrow so hopefully it's doable(safe). I'm hoping to post up some good red snapper pics tomorrow evening.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*FYI upgrade trailer torsion axle for Mako pro skiff*

I hit a good size bump in the road yesterday while trailering the skiff. The brake lines were sheared off by hitting the trailer frame on the bounce! :hairout:

You think I just found a serious design flaw?! Next up, Bass Pro/Tracker Marine's response to this mishap.


----------



## fishingmagnet

I enjoy reading this topic. Keep it up


----------



## modestmike

Just got back in from our 8 mile "offshore" adventure. The boat ran great the whole way out. We managed to get our limit of red snapper (8) and I caught the biggest mangrove snapper to date that measured in at 17.5".


----------



## Techguy802

Awesome modestmike!!! I have only had mine on the sound and back waters but have been thinking about going out to some artificial reefs! 

Glad to hear!!!

FlatCatFL, brake lines? I don't have trailer brakes on mine. Was that an upgrade? My pull vehicle is a 2013 1500 Crew Cab so I didn't think about trailer brakes.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

Techguy802 said:


> Awesome modestmike!!! I have only had mine on the sound and back waters but have been thinking about going out to some artificial reefs!
> 
> Glad to hear!!!
> 
> FlatCatFL, brake lines? I don't have trailer brakes on mine. Was that an upgrade? My pull vehicle is a 2013 1500 Crew Cab so I didn't think about trailer brakes.


I got the optional upgrade trailer when I bought the skiff. I pull with a Ford Escape, and thought a little extra breaking help couldn't hurt. The Rolco trailer folks who built and assembled this particular trailer did not really think the brake system layout very well.

I'm at BP/Tracker Marine now as I write this post. I'll need a complete new brake line kit retro fitted.


----------



## Dudeguzman

*D-day possibly tomorrow if a few questions from existing owners reply.*

I'm already preaproved for the special financing at BPS and I'm strongly considering making my decision tomorrow and picking up the 16 or 17 skiff if it fits in my 19.5 garage. I noticed that the split younger trailer for the extra $grand could still be shortened so I'm thinking of cutting it and doing it myself if the measurements allow it. Questions I have!

1. Plan on using this with my old man and 9 year old son. I live in south florida and I'm planning on using the boat in the intercostal waterways from Fort Lauderdale down to key biscayne and the keys. Will this little boat be the right choice?. What ever I buy has to fit in the garage.

2.Has anyone taken this out to governors cut just outside south beach?

3. Anybody use this in the keys?

4.Anyone have any input on doing there own cut on the swing younger to maximize room for a garage?

Thanks to all who have posted prior. If I decide to take the plunge I will post up my experiences and mods already planned.


----------



## Winters97gt

I posted a video of what I encountered in the ICW in Galveston today. It's in the boating section. This is a great thread with lots of detailed info. It helped me buy my boat, so hats off to the OP.

I've fished all up and down the Texas waters in the last few weeks with my new 17 skiff. Rides great in slight chop. It's a cheap boat, and you can tell by the lack of stainless steel, poor front seat sealing, etc. Shoot, I even had a piece of the fuel pump that was never installed on the motor. Got stranded out 10 miles in South Texas and got in by pumping it manually by hand. Bass Pro(Tracker Marine)in Katy Texas was shocked I even made it back and was dumbfounded by it not being there. I've also had the baitwell quit working on me 3 times, and had 2 trailer lights fail in the first couple weeks. 

I love the ride and fuel economy of this boat. It is amazing how far these boats and motors have come.

I do not like the shallow water characteristics of the boat. It has no hole shot in skinny water, trim up and creep out. Not what I'm used to from other shallow boats that are built here locally in Texas. Also, both rubber straps on the main cooler have broke. Also, my tach broke last evening while hitting mild chop, and is stuck. Other than that, I enjoy the boat.


----------



## MakoSkiff

Dudeguzman said:


> I'm already preaproved for the special financing at BPS and I'm strongly considering making my decision tomorrow and picking up the 16 or 17 skiff if it fits in my 19.5 garage. I noticed that the split younger trailer for the extra $grand could still be shortened so I'm thinking of cutting it and doing it myself if the measurements allow it. Questions I have!
> 
> 1. Plan on using this with my old man and 9 year old son. I live in south florida and I'm planning on using the boat in the intercostal waterways from Fort Lauderdale down to key biscayne and the keys. Will this little boat be the right choice?. What ever I buy has to fit in the garage.
> 
> 2.Has anyone taken this out to governors cut just outside south beach?
> 
> 3. Anybody use this in the keys?
> 
> 4.Anyone have any input on doing there own cut on the swing younger to maximize room for a garage?
> 
> Thanks to all who have posted prior. If I decide to take the plunge I will post up my experiences and mods already planned.


I have a 2012 17 proskiff and live in miami. haven't taken it all the way to the key but i have taken it to cardsound road inkey largo. did great no problems. I think this thing is perfect for the keys. dying to go islamorada.
Are you buying it from bass pro in Dania Beach or Miami? Had bad expierence with the Dania store.
I bought it last year, one year ago today to be exact. LOL. I've taken it out to stiltsville, key biscayne and all around virginia key and back to dinner key marina with about 5 gal of gas. caught some rough water. you will feel it but it does pretty good for its size, just remember its no V Hull. little rough in these waters. I have a good relationship with the miami store and know all the guys, good people. Do yourself a favor and do not get the trailer with fancy aluminum wheels or trailer brakes. they won't last with saltwater. the brakes arent for saltwater and a boat this small(about 2,000 lbs) doesn't need brakes unless your tow vehicle is really small. the ugly gavanized wheel hold up to saltwater better than the clear coated aluminum wheels. I have replaced every eyelets to stailness steel and had my livewell upgraded to the 2013 system so that it pumps water under plane.
I added to my the trolling motor and the lowrance Mark 4 GPS/depthfinder. will post pics. also make sure you get the spare tire and load guide, trust me they'll come in handy. i had to put them on mine. pm me or feel free to call me for more info or if you want to go out and try a water test before buying i will be more than willing to help you out.


----------



## Dudeguzman

Again thank you for talking to me and posting your experience. I want to take you up on that offer for the ride. Let me know, I'm not sure how long there going to have the rebate and special 2.9. % finance.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*All right.....finally some So. Fla. posts*

hello dudeguzman and makoskiff. welcome to this thread. i picked up my 17 pro skiff about 3 weeks ago and am in the process of rigging it the way i want it. i did upgrade the trailer and will keep an eye on it once i get it into some salt.

dudeguzman, as a so. floridian you know there are tons of used boats out there that could fit your needs. but they would be USED. that being said, the pro skiff package -boat, motor and trailer with FULL WARRANTIES is hard to beat for the asking price of about 16k to 17k before tax. CG rated for six peeps or 850lbs. gives you the versatility to joy ride with others if need be. in a nutshell that is why i chose to purchase a new one over a used quality boat. good luck with the process and def take makoskiff up on a wet test if you have the time.

makoskiff, i also have the lowrance mark4 unit and i'm trying to get it done but the thunderstorms up here in lake worth are killing me LOL! are you installing a fixed antenna VHF radio somewhere on your skiff? i have the link 5 and the limited console space is becoming a PIA.

cheers all!


----------



## rgourley11

*garage*



Dudeguzman said:


> I'm already preaproved for the special financing at BPS and I'm strongly considering making my decision tomorrow and picking up the 16 or 17 skiff if it fits in my 19.5 garage. I noticed that the split younger trailer for the extra $grand could still be shortened so I'm thinking of cutting it and doing it myself if the measurements allow it. Questions I have!
> 
> 1. Plan on using this with my old man and 9 year old son. I live in south florida and I'm planning on using the boat in the intercostal waterways from Fort Lauderdale down to key biscayne and the keys. Will this little boat be the right choice?. What ever I buy has to fit in the garage.
> 
> 2.Has anyone taken this out to governors cut just outside south beach?
> 
> 3. Anybody use this in the keys?
> 
> 4.Anyone have any input on doing there own cut on the swing younger to maximize room for a garage?
> 
> Thanks to all who have posted prior. If I decide to take the plunge I will post up my experiences and mods already planned.


I have the swing arm trailer and the boat in a 20' garage. It fits the garage with 4" clearance. This is with the boat backed straight in.


----------



## Jonc

*Cooler latch*

Quick tip on the cooler latch design... I like winters 97 broke one of the rubber latches the second week in use. After doing so it dawned on me why it happened even though it should have been designed to last longer than it did.

Make sure you close the lid completely before you latch the rubber and not use the latch to close the lid completely. Evidently it puts too much stress one the rubber. I ordered two replacements just in case.

Jonc


----------



## joebucko

Dudeguzman, good luck as you make your boat buying decision. I couldn't be happier with my Pro17. Everything I wanted in a basic boat. I would caution you about one thing however. Be VERY careful if you decide to shorten this trailer. The ProSkiff is basically a square nose boat. With the full length trailer it comes very close to the back of your vehicle in tight turns like maneuvering at the ramp. Make certain that you will have adequate vehicle clearance in the tightest turn if you shorten it.

An alternative might be to explore adapting a removable tongue instead of the folding version. I don't know exactly how one would do that but I believe it is possible and that might give you the length you need for the garage while still maintaining the full trailer length when in use.


----------



## MakoSkiff

didnt the original poster about 30 something pages ago( I believe page 1 or 2) installed a swing hitch hinge on his trailer that did not come with it from factory?


----------



## Dudeguzman

MakoSkiff said:


> didnt the original poster about 30 something pages ago( I believe page 1 or 2) installed a swing hitch hinge on his trailer that did not come with it from factory?


Yes he did. By the way are you taking your boat out on the fourth or this coming weekend? I'd love to take u out on that ride to see the boat on the water myself.


----------



## modestmike

Caught this 46" king this morning at SPI. Had a total of four kings on the boat.


----------



## Dudeguzman

modestmike said:


> View attachment 630023
> 
> Caught this 46" king this morning at SPI. Had a total of four kings on the boat.


Nice catch, were is SPI?


----------



## Dudeguzman

rgourley11 said:


> I have the swing arm trailer and the boat in a 20' garage. It fits the garage with 4" clearance. This is with the boat backed straight in.


Which boat do you have, the 17?


----------



## modestmike

Dudeguzman said:


> Nice catch, were is SPI?


100 yards east of the jetties.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*Smoke 'em if you got 'em - kingfish that is!*

hell of a haul modestmike!


----------



## Winters97gt

Mike, don't you know you need a real boat to do that? Lol, great catch!


----------



## joebucko

Way to go Mike! Looks like you are going to need a bigger cooler.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*More engine break in*

I got back out on the water after work yesterday. A couple days before, I topped off the fuel tank with fresh fuel and a can of Seafoam. I launched and puttered around a bit then put some revs on. The Merc spun up and never missed a beatâ€¦whew!!! So, all is well in Boatville again. I'm hoping to get the skiff in some salt this coming weekend.

Everybody have a safe 4th, cheers!


----------



## Techguy802

We were out in some rough water last Sunday going to visit friends at Picnic Island here in Pine Island Sound. With 4 adults the boat handled the 2-3 seas pretty well! Once on plane we stayed pretty dry but idling out of the Manatee Zone was a wet and bumpy ride. We even took a couple of waves over the bow! 

All in all it was a good day! For being a skiff style boat, we have no complaints over the little amount of spray we are getting in rough water compared to our friends Carolina!

Ran all weekend on about 5 gallons worth of gas! I am loving the efficiency!


----------



## MakoSkiff

FlatsCatFL said:


> hello dudeguzman and makoskiff. welcome to this thread. i picked up my 17 pro skiff about 3 weeks ago and am in the process of rigging it the way i want it. i did upgrade the trailer and will keep an eye on it once i get it into some salt.
> 
> dudeguzman, as a so. floridian you know there are tons of used boats out there that could fit your needs. but they would be USED. that being said, the pro skiff package -boat, motor and trailer with FULL WARRANTIES is hard to beat for the asking price of about 16k to 17k before tax. CG rated for six peeps or 850lbs. gives you the versatility to joy ride with others if need be. in a nutshell that is why i chose to purchase a new one over a used quality boat. good luck with the process and def take makoskiff up on a wet test if you have the time.
> 
> makoskiff, i also have the lowrance mark4 unit and i'm trying to get it done but the thunderstorms up here in lake worth are killing me LOL! are you installing a fixed antenna VHF radio somewhere on your skiff? i have the link 5 and the limited console space is becoming a PIA.
> 
> cheers all!


not really, I haven't thought about installing a vhf radio. where did you install yours? any pics?
what i'm considering installing is a radio with 2 speaker on the side of the console and have been looking for some more pics on this install. the guys at BPS showed me a pic of one guys install and looks good. i will try to get those pics to share with group.

How do you like the Mark 4, i haven't messed with it too much.


----------



## MakoSkiff

Dudeguzman said:


> Yes he did. By the way are you taking your boat out on the fourth or this coming weekend? I'd love to take u out on that ride to see the boat on the water myself.


no not today the 4th, people get too crazy and ramps are to full. last weeknd FWC was at the ramps at dinnner key marina. the 2.99% financing is a joke. i have good credit and all i could get was 14%, last year year i had more debt and i got a better deal. this costing them sales, alot of the boats are just sitting there.


----------



## highanddryinco

A few weeks back I had written asking if anyone else was having troubles with the Pro Skiff wanting to stick to the bunks when launching and having to back in way too deep to get it floating...
Well, I jacked up the bow while on the trailer, waxed the hull where it rides on the bunks, and shot a can of silicone spray on the bunks probably two-thirds the way from front to back. Yee-Haw I can launch from the parking lot now! What a difference.
I cheaped out and did use regular silicone spray and it puckered my synthetic bunk carpet just a little bit. I don't know if the expensive stuff from West Marine has petroleum distillates or not but that might be the way to go if it doesn't.


----------



## MakoSkiff

same issue here when launching


----------



## MakoSkiff

here is a pic of my skiff after trolling motor install


----------



## FlatsCatFL

highanddryinco said:


> A few weeks back I had written asking if anyone else was having troubles with the Pro Skiff wanting to stick to the bunks when launching and having to back in way too deep to get it floating...
> Well, I jacked up the bow while on the trailer, waxed the hull where it rides on the bunks, and shot a can of silicone spray on the bunks probably two-thirds the way from front to back. Yee-Haw I can launch from the parking lot now! What a difference.
> I cheaped out and did use regular silicone spray and it puckered my synthetic bunk carpet just a little bit. I don't know if the expensive stuff from West Marine has petroleum distillates or not but that might be the way to go if it doesn't.


i also have the dreaded sticky bunks. i bought the MARY KATE bunk spray at Bass Pro. i have not used it yet because the instructions recommend that the bunks be dry before applying. so far, i have not had enough down time to let the bunks dry. i'm thinking of spraying the bunks at the house with the hose before leaving for the docks to put some moisture on them before a launch.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

highanddryinco said:


> A few weeks back I had written asking if anyone else was having troubles with the Pro Skiff wanting to stick to the bunks when launching and having to back in way too deep to get it floating...
> Well, I jacked up the bow while on the trailer, waxed the hull where it rides on the bunks, and shot a can of silicone spray on the bunks probably two-thirds the way from front to back. Yee-Haw I can launch from the parking lot now! What a difference.
> I cheaped out and did use regular silicone spray and it puckered my synthetic bunk carpet just a little bit. I don't know if the expensive stuff from West Marine has petroleum distillates or not but that might be the way to go if it doesn't.


HADICO, how did you "jack" the skiff off the trailer to wax the hull?


----------



## highanddryinco

I used a small bottle jack. Lay some 2x4 blocks on top of the trailer right about where the trailer side rails meet the tongue tube. Put the bottle jack on top of those blocks. That will put you right under that nice flat lip they use for the spray deflector at the front of the tunnel. Put another 2x4 maybe 20" long flat against that lip to protect it from the bottle jack. Jack up the front of the boat about 8 " and you'll have plenty of room to work. You may throw some scrap blocks on bunks for safety in case something goes wrong with the jack. Oh yeah, loosen the bow hook.


----------



## highanddryinco

Like I said...you're only getting the forward section doing it this way, but that's all it takes. I'm sure you could do the same to the back with a little different block/jack setup but since that part floats right away, it probably wouldn't make much difference in the launch and load.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

highanddryinco said:


> I used a small bottle jack. Lay some 2x4 blocks on top of the trailer right about where the trailer side rails meet the tongue tube. Put the bottle jack on top of those blocks. That will put you right under that nice flat lip they use for the spray deflector at the front of the tunnel. Put another 2x4 maybe 20" long flat against that lip to protect it from the bottle jack. Jack up the front of the boat about 8 " and you'll have plenty of room to work. You may throw some scrap blocks on bunks for safety in case something goes wrong with the jack. Oh yeah, loosen the bow hook.


Good to know, thanks for the tip! Cheers!


----------



## KeithD.

*Bimini Info*

FlatsCatFl

I looked up that part number for the bimini and was able to only come up with a part number of 4H5W72-GRY and not the number you posted. Do you think this one will work? Let me know thanks Keith


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*bimini top specs*



KeithD. said:


> FlatsCatFl
> 
> I looked up that part number for the bimini and was able to only come up with a part number of 4H5W72-GRY and not the number you posted. Do you think this one will work? Let me know thanks Keith


KeithD, i just remeasured my inside gunnel edge mounting points for my bimini top. the width on the inside gunnel edge was at 69 1/2" on center. it seems like the one you're looking at is within specs.


----------



## Dudeguzman

rgourley11 said:


> I have the swing arm trailer and the boat in a 20' garage. It fits the garage with 4" clearance. This is with the boat backed straight in.


Thank you. Helpful post


----------



## Dudeguzman

*R you out on your baby today?*



FlatsCatFL said:


> KeithD, i just remeasured my inside gunnel edge mounting points for my bimini top. the width on the inside gunnel edge was at 69 1/2" on center. it seems like the one you're looking at is within specs.





MakoSkiff said:


> no not today the 4th, people get too crazy and ramps are to full. last weeknd FWC was at the ramps at dinnner key marina. the 2.99% financing is a joke. i have good credit and all i could get was 14%, last year year i had more debt and i got a better deal. this costing them sales, alot of the boats are just sitting there.


I'd love to see it on the water


----------



## Techguy802

Dudeguzman said:


> I'd love to see it on the water







Here is a video from the console on a calmer day.

Unfortunately we won't be out for a few weeks since our son is down with Appendicitis.

Hope this helps!


----------



## Dudeguzman

Winters97gt said:


> I posted a video of what I encountered in the ICW in Galveston today. It's in the boating section. This is a great thread with lots of detailed info. It helped me buy my boat, so hats off to the OP.
> 
> I've fished all up and down the Texas waters in the last few weeks with my new 17 skiff. Rides great in slight chop. It's a cheap boat, and you can tell by the lack of stainless steel, poor front seat sealing, etc. Shoot, I even had a piece of the fuel pump that was never installed on the motor. Got stranded out 10 miles in South Texas and got in by pumping it manually by hand. Bass Pro(Tracker Marine)in Katy Texas was shocked I even made it back and was dumbfounded by it not being there. I've also had the baitwell quit working on me 3 times, and had 2 trailer lights fail in the first couple weeks.
> 
> I love the ride and fuel economy of this boat. It is amazing how far these boats and motors have come.
> 
> I do not like the shallow water characteristics of the boat. It has no hole shot in skinny water, trim up and creep out. Not what I'm used to from other shallow boats that are built here locally in Texas. Also, both rubber straps on the main cooler have broke. Also, my tach broke last evening while hitting mild chop, and is stuck. Other than that, I enjoy the boat.


As I read your post I wonder if you work for a company in Texas that makes other skiffs. There is nothing positive in your review or the video you shot. Yes it is a cheap boat but suits certain pockets. I for one can not buy one with out a test ride.


----------



## Dudeguzman

Techguy802 said:


> Here is a video from the console on a calmer day.
> 
> Unfortunately we won't be out for a few weeks since our son is down with Appendicitis.
> 
> Hope this helps!


Seems to ride great on flat water. Was that a lake? I've never seen power poles like that before! Hope your kid gets better


----------



## redbuffalo

I'm new to the board and saw this thread. I have a 17 Mako skiff since May 2012. Just like everyone, I have gone through the bad times (live well pumps, fit and finish issues, etc) as well as the good times (dry ride for it's size, fuel economy, etc). Just want to say hi to everyone. I love the boat. I saw an earlier post about taking it a few miles offshore. If the seas were flat, I wouldn't mind testing it around the 5 mile mark. Maybe hook up on a king or a tarpon around August and September months. Probably wishful thinking on the tarpon.


----------



## modestmike

I'm the one who took it offshore. I had a department of homeland security boat come screaming up to us one day out there. We weren't there but 10 minutes. I guess they had us on radar and since we were so close to Mexico with pangas close by they had to check us out. It was just about 2'-3'seas with a few big rollers here and there. They pulled in close and just shouted out that we were crazy and took off at full speed. I guess they aren't used to seeing small tiller skiffs that far out in "rough water". It was a walk in the park.....just a slow walk


----------



## Techguy802

Dudeguzman said:


> Seems to ride great on flat water. Was that a lake? I've never seen power poles like that before! Hope your kid gets better


That is Pine Island Sound. It is coastal waters in SW Florida.

That is our primary boating location. We regularly encounter rather large boats and their wake as they head out into the Gulf.

The water can also get rough pretty quick from a storm so we wanted an affordable boat that met the needs of water taxi to go to the beach when family is in town and fishing fun for my son and I. This boat seems to fit the bill perfectly!

Thanks! We hope to bring him home from the hospital this weekend.


----------



## panhandlekelly

*Mako Pro 17 Skiff CC user review*

I knew this was the boat I had been wanting the first time I saw it on display at Bass Pro Shops in Spanish Fort Alabama. It appeared to be an all around good fishing boat. I saltwater fish some and fresh water fish more often.
I was not disappointed in my decision to purchase this boat, only wish I had purchased at another retailer. The experience was not a good one. 
Having said that, the boat is all I expected it to be. It delivers a very smooth ride, even in rough water. Just realize it is not a deep 'V'. The hull design offers a very shallow draft and sits very flat in the water even on plane. Very roomy lay out. I get about 34 mph with a 60 hp Mercury and a 13 pitch prop. Expect the floor of the boat to have some water on it all the time, the boat sits so flat that water does not drain to the back unless you run it on plane occasionally to drain. I have had the boat out on 5 fishing trips to date.
I have added extra fishing rod holders to both sides of the side walls, installed an addional 6 gallon fuel tank, a trolling motor, bow pedestal seat, and an automatic bilge switch.
The addition of the trolling motor and it's battery was a challenge. Actually the battery charger was the challenge. There were no provisions to running wiring to the bow of the boat. I installed an on board charger in the center console and added a trolling motor 2 wire male plug on the side of the conlsole. Then "built" a power cord with female trolling motor plugs on each end. When charging is needed, I just plug the cord into the console and the bow mounted plug. I ran a few wires from the transom to the console to power a Ray Marine Dragonfly machine directly to the battery. 
I am having a few issues and will be making an appointment with BPS for repairs. The prop "slips" on the hole shot and in tight turns, trouble with the aerator working intermitently, and the winch mount post mounting plate on the aluminum trailer has bent and a bracket has broken. 
All in all, a good fishing boat for the money.

Donnie


----------



## MakoSkiff

that bideo almost looks like the fl keys, they have electrical posts like that in the water next to bridges.


----------



## MakoSkiff

regarding The prop blow out your are expierencing, if you have the 13 in pitch one than its its probably the stainless steel 3 blade vegeance prop. most likely they'll tell you to swap in the 4 blade alumium spitfire 14 inch prop, which is the one i have. I thought about getting the stainless 3 blade and my BPS serv Mngr said not to waste the money, that the 4 blade is a better fit for this boat. maybe your torqflex hub is slipping, i had mine replaced just after purchase last year. as far as blowout or prop loosing bite or slipping, i have gunned it full throttle and nothing, no slip and thats with a trolling motor and heavy *** group 27 battery up front, gear, two 6.6 gals gas tanks, a cooler with 4with drinks and ice and 3 adults. i have been expiernecing blowouts lately when its rough 2-3 ft. my Bass pro serv mngr said its a skinny water boat and and the transom has a sharp angle and to keep engine trimmed all way down and once on plain to trim up a touch an thats it!. i'm thinking about trying out the propeller you have to see how its runs compared to the 4 balde spitfire. If i do, I will post results.

also regarding the aeretor, tell them to updated to the 2013 models, i had mine done under warranty. it consisted of the follwing the easy pick up over stearn intake for livewell, different pump and i had them change to overflow so i don't need that stupid overflow tube. i'll post pics. or there is some in these posts towards the beginning.

anyone have any a lowrance mark 4?

Donnie[/QUOTE]



panhandlekelly said:


> I knew this was the boat I had been wanting the first time I saw it on display at Bass Pro Shops in Spanish Fort Alabama. It appeared to be an all around good fishing boat. I saltwater fish some and fresh water fish more often.
> I was not disappointed in my decision to purchase this boat, only wish I had purchased at another retailer. The experience was not a good one.
> Having said that, the boat is all I expected it to be. It delivers a very smooth ride, even in rough water. Just realize it is not a deep 'V'. The hull design offers a very shallow draft and sits very flat in the water even on plane. Very roomy lay out. I get about 34 mph with a 60 hp Mercury and a 13 pitch prop. Expect the floor of the boat to have some water on it all the time, the boat sits so flat that water does not drain to the back unless you run it on plane occasionally to drain. I have had the boat out on 5 fishing trips to date.
> I have added extra fishing rod holders to both sides of the side walls, installed an addional 6 gallon fuel tank, a trolling motor, bow pedestal seat, and an automatic bilge switch.
> The addition of the trolling motor and it's battery was a challenge. Actually the battery charger was the challenge. There were no provisions to running wiring to the bow of the boat. I installed an on board charger in the center console and added a trolling motor 2 wire male plug on the side of the conlsole. Then "built" a power cord with female trolling motor plugs on each end. When charging is needed, I just plug the cord into the console and the bow mounted plug. I ran a few wires from the transom to the console to power a Ray Marine Dragonfly machine directly to the battery.
> I am having a few issues and will be making an appointment with BPS for repairs. The prop "slips" on the hole shot and in tight turns, trouble with the aerator working intermitently, and the winch mount post mounting plate on the aluminum trailer has bent and a bracket has broken.
> All in all, a good fishing boat for the money.
> 
> Donnie


----------



## Techguy802

MakoSkiff said:


> that bideo almost looks like the fl keys, they have electrical posts like that in the water next to bridges.


The power lines run between Pine Island, where I live, and Sanibel/Captiva Islands. They cross the ICW which runs through Pine Island Sound. That is where we spend most of our time fishing!

We run the boat over to Captiva and dock at Jensen's Marina then walk across Captiva when we want to go to the beach.

Our old boat was a 15' Royal Crown that had a 48" beam and was quite the adventure to cross the sound with the 75'-80' boats creating 4' wake on our way over.

Thus the need for a utility boat as well as fishing!

My son wasn't feeling well a week ago Saturday so a friend and I took the boat out to explore around some of the passes to find more fishing spots. We had a stiff 15-20 wind and some rough water and the boat handled it nicely!


----------



## joebucko

Makoskiff,
what kind of speed do you get out of the 4 blade spitfire? I am running the standard 3blade aluminum mercury prop with 13P and don't experience any blowout except in very heavy chop with waves. Then I get a little bit but usually trim down and throttle back just a bit. 34mph is my max speed fully loaded.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*Lowrance Mark 4*

Makoskiff, I have a Mark 4


----------



## MakoSkiff

joebucko, not sure, I just got my mark 4 and haven't had a chance to open her with the gps on. when it first came out last year a magazine tested 35mph and i think thats with the four blade. the 2012 models were shipped with either one. and in the 13 models they made the stainless 13 inch pitch optional. per conversation with mako.
as a matter of fact if you go to mercury 60 hp 4S website go under engine test and they tested two different ones. One of them was with the spitfire prop(4 balde)


----------



## MakoSkiff

FlatsCatFL, how do you like it? any tips?. Does yourdepth read irractic when underway?

here the for test with the spitfire prop http://www.mercurymarine.com/engines/engine-tests/boat-house-bulletin/?ID=702&


----------



## MakoSkiff

here is another test but no prop info, i can only assume its the vengeance 3 blade prop, since its a little faster. http://www.mercurymarine.com/engines/engine-tests/third-party/?ID=204&


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*Mark 4*

Makoskiff, LOL I'm still rigging. I hope to have it finished this Saturday and if so take the skiff out Sunday for a test run.


----------



## MakoSkiff

FYI. make sure it has a 3amp inline fuse, per manual.


----------



## panhandlekelly

The prop is a 3 blade Vegence stainless.
I didn't follow on the aerator info.
3 amp fuse?


----------



## jkalin1

Hey folks, great thread! I'm looking at a Mako pro skiff 17 cc and am wondering if any of you are from MD and have any experience with this boat on the Chesapeake bay or any rivers around Anne Arundel county. I'm thinking it will do very well, at least on the rivers, and be a great crabbing/fishing boat. Cheers!


----------



## LitUp

hey guys great forum, ive had my mako for a couple months now and no complaints here, i wanted to know if anyone had put a t-top on one yet and if they had some pics


----------



## Jonc

Welcome to the thread guys! BPS should send us all gift cards as this forum is without a doubt the best source on the web for real time unfiltered views and opinions regarding the Pro Skiff not to mention countless tips on rigging your new boat correctly the first time.

Now, if we could all land massive fish like ModestMike the world would be perfect!

Jonc


----------



## LitUp

*new boat lights*

Boat leds


----------



## Techguy802

LitUp said:


> hey guys great forum, ive had my mako for a couple months now and no complaints here, i wanted to know if anyone had put a t-top on one yet and if they had some pics


Taco makes one that looks like it will fit. I had plans to mock one up using pvc but do not have the time right now.

It is available through Basspro.com and other sites online for a couple of hundred less than BP. About $899 at BP and $699 elsewhere.


----------



## panhandlekelly

Thought I would share how I solved the problem charging a battery on bow and the stern at the same time since Mako did not provide a way to get a wire to the bow. I installed an on 2 bank board charger in the CC. I "fished" a few wires and my transducer cable from the CC to the stern (such a pain, I ran extra wire). I installed an A/C power cord cover and a male trolling motor battery plug on the side of the CC. Made a cord with female trolling motor ends on each end. Now I just plug in the A/C extention cord and the made up cord from the CC to the bow mounted trolling motor plug to charge both batteries. When finished, I just unplug the charging cable and stow away. 
A comment about extra fuel tank. Had my brother not given me a 6.6 Attwood tank, I would have been better off to purchase a QiuckSilver tank that was ready to go. All the parts and pieces to make the spare just like the original, for qiuck change over, would have put my cost over the price of a new one.


----------



## LitUp

Techguy802 said:


> Taco makes one that looks like it will fit. I had plans to mock one up using pvc but do not have the time right now.
> 
> It is available through Basspro.com and other sites online for a couple of hundred less than BP. About $899 at BP and $699 elsewhere.


Thanks for the help tech


----------



## Steveomatic

Hey all, new Pro17 CC w/60HP owner here. Picked her up about 3 weeks ago from BPS in MD. Only extras so far are the Lowrance elite5 (installed before pickup) and a bimini from Kapsco Moto that is shipping now. 

Thanks for a great thread and all the info. This thread definitely helped influence my decision to buy and I have no regrets so far.


----------



## Steveomatic

jkalin1 said:


> Hey folks, great thread! I'm looking at a Mako pro skiff 17 cc and am wondering if any of you are from MD and have any experience with this boat on the Chesapeake bay or any rivers around Anne Arundel county. I'm thinking it will do very well, at least on the rivers, and be a great crabbing/fishing boat. Cheers!


I'm in Crofton, still in the break-in period for the Merc and I've only been out twice in the Patuxent south of Jug Bay. Does great on the river, I'm in no hurry to get out in the bay but I'm sure that day will come. The one thing I have really noticed is that the steering seems a bit stiff. I'm towing with a Jeep SRT8 and barely notice it's there.

As far as T-tops go I'd like to see one installed. I shopped around and was thinking of ordering a T-topless Shadow ($800) but they won't fit our consoles. The other option from them is the original T-topless but that one starts at $1500. I liked the 30# weight, ease of removal, and no drilling but I decided to save $1400 and just order the bimini.


----------



## LitUp

I decided to have a custom t-top made im on a waiting list right now but should be done in 5 weeks ill put some pics on once i get it completed


----------



## Techguy802

LitUp said:


> I decided to have a custom t-top made im on a waiting list right now but should be done in 5 weeks ill put some pics on once i get it completed


What price range is a custom TTop? Was thinking about that myself if I didn't like the way the mock up looked of the Taco model.

I am really looking forward to the pics!


----------



## modestmike

I don't know what the deal is but, I had the pleasure of towing a 19' Carolina Skiff down the Arroyo yesterday and then a 20' Dargel from 7 miles offshore.......it's been a loooong day but the 25hp mercury got all the boats home.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*Close Encounters!*



LitUp said:


> Boat leds


H**y S***, run! The Mother Ship is upon you!!!


----------



## Techguy802

LitUp said:


> Boat leds


Did you run those under the gunwales on the outside? Looks like the boat will float away! Neat idea though! Does it attract baitfish?


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*Creativity Rules*



panhandlekelly said:


> Thought I would share how I solved the problem charging a battery on bow and the stern at the same time since Mako did not provide a way to get a wire to the bow. I installed an on 2 bank board charger in the CC. I "fished" a few wires and my transducer cable from the CC to the stern (such a pain, I ran extra wire). I installed an A/C power cord cover and a male trolling motor battery plug on the side of the CC. Made a cord with female trolling motor ends on each end. Now I just plug in the A/C extention cord and the made up cord from the CC to the bow mounted trolling motor plug to charge both batteries. When finished, I just unplug the charging cable and stow away.
> A comment about extra fuel tank. Had my brother not given me a 6.6 Attwood tank, I would have been better off to purchase a QiuckSilver tank that was ready to go. All the parts and pieces to make the spare just like the original, for qiuck change over, would have put my cost over the price of a new one.


PHK, nicely done on the electricals!


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*Florida rain is a PITA today*

Got up early today with hopes of finishing the VHF and FF/CP rigging inside the console but my day was cut short. The thunderstorms rolled in heavy @ noon and are still kicking a** as I write this.

Anyone else out there been on their back, head inside the console looking up at the eletricals and muttered "rats nest" to themselves? I'm in the low voltage wiring biz and cluttered wiring quickly annoys me. I found a dangling multi (-) ground bar and two wire leads with female spade connectors coming off the master power switch. One is a flying (+) lead and the other I'm sure of yet. Im glad they are there, it will make my point of connections much easier.

What's the Marine conventional wisdom on powering accessories like VHF radios and FF/CP's. Is a properly fused constant power OK or should they be connected to the switched power leg from the Master Power Switch?


----------



## joebucko

Flatscatfl,
I have the same birds nest. It bugs me but not enough to attempt to redo everything to neaten it up. I have everything run through the master switch simply to ensure that when I'm done everything is powered down. On my last boat I did not do that and inevitably I'd leave a FF powered up or a light or something. Now I just make sure the master is off.


----------



## LitUp

Techguy802 said:


> What price range is a custom TTop? Was thinking about that myself if I didn't like the way the mock up looked of the Taco model.
> 
> I am really looking forward to the pics!


The place im getting mine made its gonna cost around 1400 but they are top of the line and look great, ill post pics first thing once i get it back


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*Stiff steering*



Steveomatic said:


> I'm in Crofton, still in the break-in period for the Merc and I've only been out twice in the Patuxent south of Jug Bay. Does great on the river, I'm in no hurry to get out in the bay but I'm sure that day will come. The one thing I have really noticed is that the steering seems a bit stiff. I'm towing with a Jeep SRT8 and barely notice it's there.
> 
> As far as T-tops go I'd like to see one installed. I shopped around and was thinking of ordering a T-topless Shadow ($800) but they won't fit our consoles. The other option from them is the original T-topless but that one starts at $1500. I liked the 30# weight, ease of removal, and no drilling but I decided to save $1400 and just order the bimini.


Hi steveomatic, welcome to the forum. Regarding the mech. steering on the skiff, I also think the steering is quite stiff. But this is my first boat with mech. steering so what do I know. Maybe I need to go to the gym and work the upper body a bit more, LOL!


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*Wiring*



joebucko said:


> Flatscatfl,
> I have the same birds nest. It bugs me but not enough to attempt to redo everything to neaten it up. I have everything run through the master switch simply to ensure that when I'm done everything is powered down. On my last boat I did not do that and inevitably I'd leave a FF powered up or a light or something. Now I just make sure the master is off.


Thanks JB for your insight. I'm leaning in that direction too, however today I finally got a break with the T-storms and grabbed the constant positive that was pre-wired. At a later date when I go back in to clean up the point to point connections i"ll move over to the switched positive.

I've added some pics of my efforts. The sonar on the stern saver isn't quite as elegant as yours, but I think it will get the job done. The pics of the console include rubber grommets for vibration isolation and the homemade 'console saver' from king starboard. View past the console and you can see plastic boat cleats I'm using to keep two dry storage containers under the front platform. Also not pictured are PVC rod inserts(JB), starboard console PVC insert for the stiffy pole(JB), a front bow cleat, you can see that one(JB), and a raised bait well back seat cushion for clearance from the seat/lid(RG11). Thanks to you and others my "mods" punch list is getting smaller. Cheers!


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*More pics*

More pics


----------



## Techguy802

Nice job Flats! Love the idea of the plastic cleats! 

Have any of you thought of adding a live well to the rear deck? On the opposite side as the gas tank? 

The front well is great for bait when it works, but if I want to keep a 27" Redfish alive for a tourney I am sunk. :smile:


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*big fish*

TG802, lol, you need to tow a "tender" with fish saver equipment for the monsters you're catching. I don't tourney fish so i've never given another live well a thought. my first thought would be the added weight for a system large enough to keep the big'ns you're talking about alive. maybe you could convert the existing cooler/seat to fit your needs.


----------



## Techguy802

FlatsCatFL said:


> TG802, lol, you need to tow a "tender" with fish saver equipment for the monsters you're catching. I don't tourney fish so i've never given another live well a thought. my first thought would be the added weight for a system large enough to keep the big'ns you're talking about alive. maybe you could convert the existing cooler/seat to fit your needs.


I was thinking about the weight as well. There would only be two of us in the boat when I would need it though and it would just make storage for the rest of the time.

For now I will keep using the cooler seat to ice them down and stick to the photo tourneys.


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## joebucko

Stiff mechanical steering and our OEM Teleflex Safe-T helm versus Teleflex Safe-T ll NFB helm
.
Our steering mechanism is made by Teleflex and is the simplest/cheapest they make called Teleflex Safe-T. Nothing wrong with mechanical steering for our size motors but there are a couple of things you need to be aware of.

My steering got so tight that I could barely steer my motor to Starboard at WOT. Turned out I had two issues. The first was that the lubrication in the steering tube connected to the motor (the thing that moves in and out when you turn the wheel) had almost dried up. I figured it out and cleaned and re-lubed it with the 2-4C Teflon grease. There is an excellent video on youtube showing exactly what needs to be done. 



This video shows pulling the steering cable out of the engine pivot tube. I did it but its a really tight fit so you may just want to disconnect the drag link and then the large metal nut holding the push rod in the tube. This should give you enough clearance to clean the sliding tube and squeeze some fresh grease in there. You will see a grease fitting on the black tilt tube which is part of the engine. This grease fitting DOES NOT put any grease inside the tube for steering it just greases the bearings that support the engine when being tilted up or down.

The second problem I had at WOT was that somehow my Trim Tab (small fin on the engine directly above the prop) got moved as far as it could go to the right(starboard). If you are not familiar with the function of this trim tab google it because its very important for safe boat control. I adjusted it so that it was just slightly starboard of the center line and this and the grease restored my steering and control.

Finally I did not like the OEM helm (part the steering wheel is connected to because it was not Non-Feed Back. That just means that I had to keep my hands on the wheel at all times while under power otherwise the boat would turn itself depending on the speed and trim of the engine. The worst case was that at WOT (prior to adjusting the trim tab) the wheel tried to literally steer itself to port/left violently. Properly adjusting the trim tab corrected that but after that experience I changed out the OEM Teleflex Safe-T to the Teleflex Safe-t ll NFB helm. They both use the same steering wheel and cable but a slightly different bezel(black plastic thing between the steering wheel and console.) Messy job but it turned out to be pretty simple. The directions from Teleflex were excellent. Now my steering is snug and I don't have to worry about keeping my hands on the wheel constantly. There is a lot of info about NFB steering on the web and at the Teleflex sight.


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## FlatsCatFL

*NFB Steering*

Joebucko, thanks for the stiff steering feedback.

So I have a few questions: Did you consider the 4.2 NFB system? Do you know what length our OEM cable is? If I upgrade to the 4.2, could I keep my OEM cable in place?

My new in the box jack plate, if I decide to use it, would require a longer cable to accommodate the JP setback of 5".


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## joebucko

Flatscatfl
I did not consider the 4.2 NFB simply because the old helm was 3 turns lock to lock and the replacement was the same. I don't see any issue with using the 4.2 as the Teleflex site states that the helm will directly replace the Safe-T without dash modification. the spec on the 4.2 says it uses the same cable SSC62XX. My cable is a SSC6216 (16ft long). http://www.seastarsolutions.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/MS7Susa-NFB-4.2-Rotary-Single.pdf I assume yours is the same. You should be able to read this number off the steering cable on the stern.
I believe the 4.2 is actually recommended for higher horsepower engines so it is geared higher to make turning easier...4.2 turns lock to lock.

I lucked into my helm and bezel at a pretty good price but if you need a longer cable then the kit containing everything would be the way to go. Personally the thought of fishing that steering cable from the stern into the console is terrifying. I had extreme difficulty just getting my transducer cable pulled and it was thin and flexible.


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## MakoSkiff

panhandlekelly said:


> The prop is a 3 blade Vegence stainless.
> I didn't follow on the aerator info.
> 3 amp fuse?


The 13 models have a pickup scoop mounted on the intake at the transom and the pump is mounted higher and vertical. Also the overflow drain is different. I had mine updated. As far the mark lowrance recommends a 3 amp inline fuse in the power connection. See manual. I used a waterproof one from west marine. BPS hook it up to the main power and it has 15 amp breaker, so I splice in the 3 amp fuse


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## MakoSkiff

More pics


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## MakoSkiff

More pics


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## panhandlekelly

As for as I can tell, this looks like my set up. But I am having problems with the pump "cavitating". It is intermitant, looking inside the pump it is dry, stick your hand in it and make a motion and it fills with water and works for a few minutes then dry again. It is at BPS now for that issue and a few others. Owners of the all aluminum trailer needs to keep a check on bracket that the winch post is welded to. Mine broke at the weld on the flat bar braket that is welded to the plate and post.


----------



## Steveomatic

Thanks for the welcome FlatsCat and the info on the steering JoeBucko! Looks like I have some more things to check tomorrow along with (hopefully) installing the bimini...

I had my first real newbie moment on Monday, keep in mind this is my first boat. I went out to wash the boat and flush the motor. I hooked up the hose/earmuffs, turned on the water, and cranked her up for a nice freshwater flush. After about 3 or 4 minutes with the motor running I realized that the gas tank was in my garage.


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## panhandlekelly

I'm sure we have all done something like that, at least I have.
I enjoy all the post and help. Some of you have done some fantastic stuff!


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## panhandlekelly

My bait well is just like yours MakoSkiff.


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## joebucko

Congratulations on your first boat Steveomatic. My Pro17 is my first real boat as well and it has been a hoot. From my experience every new boat owner has lots to look forward too like:
1. Learning to back a trailer well enough that you don't look like an idiot(hard for me)
2. Remembering to unhook all the tie downs and straps BEFORE trying to launch.
3. Remembering to re-hook all the tie downs and straps AFTER retrieving the boat.
4. Remembering to turn off all electrical stuff so that you actually have live batteries for the next time you use your boat.
5. Remembering to put in the drain plug(s) BEFORE you launch.
6. Remembering to remove the drain plug(s) afterwards(very important to me because I store my boat outside)
7. Remembering to hook up your trailer lights BEFORE you get on the road.
8. If you launch your boat alone, remembering to secure your lead rope before the boat floats off the trailer while you are in the vehicle.
9. Other stuff I don't know not to do yet.

Fortunately most of us are quick learners and after making these simple mistakes once or twice we usually don't repeat them unless of course we are in a hurry or have invited a friend to come along to enjoy our new Pro Skiffs.


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## Steveomatic

Thanks Joe! I have been loving it too. Luckily I have done pretty good in regards to your list above. I have found that backing up with a trailer is easier (for me anyway) if I keep my left hand on the wheel and look over my right shoulder out of the rear windshield at the trailer/ramp. I had only towed a handful of times in the past and they didn't go nearly as well, I was definitely a bit younger and dumber though.

One other thing, anyone else try climbing back into the boat using the rear handle and step? I can do it but it's not pretty and watching other people try to climb back in from a swim didn't look easy or graceful either. I think researching ladder options is in my immediate future...


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## Steveomatic

I don't see an option to edit my previous post but I just found your post with your ladder info on page 7 (pics on page 6) of this thread, thanks again joebucko!


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## panhandlekelly

I couldn't get back in the boat either (old and fat  ). I am going to look into adding a ladder also. Someone on here added a ladder that I think would be a great addition.


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## Ron_S

Hello all. Picked up my boat this past Tuesday. Have had it out twice already, trying to get the engine broke in. Have been following this forum for the past month. Many thanks to all that have contributed tips, suggestions, observations. Has been very helpful. Ordered my bimini top yesterday. GPS/Fishfinder came in the mail yesterday. Feels like an early Christmas.


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## rgourley11

Sense we all talk about how the boat handles, runs and all the mods we can do I thought lets see how it is to fish out of her. Fun as Hell


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## FlatsCatFL

Ron_S said:


> Hello all. Picked up my boat this past Tuesday. Have had it out twice already, trying to get the engine broke in. Have been following this forum for the past month. Many thanks to all that have contributed tips, suggestions, observations. Has been very helpful. Ordered my bimini top yesterday. GPS/Fishfinder came in the mail yesterday. Feels like an early Christmas.


Welcome, Ron_S. It's good to see another south Florida skiff owner on the forum.

I'm also in Lake Worth. Enjoy your new Skiff, it's a great coastal vessel. I was in Chokoloskee yesterday running/fishing around on the outside until the thunderstorms chased me back in. In a weird way I'm looking forward to jumping our local inlets wave havoc to get on the ocean reefs. I think the hull can take it! Cheers!


----------



## Techguy802

Question for the group. How much water do you get from the "hull" drain plug? On my model this is the silver drain plug below the normal bilge drain plug. 

I seem to get a lot regardless of what I am doing. Anytime there is water in the bilge it seems like there is also a lot in there???

A little heads up. I was looking forward to my first outing in three weeks and had my first major problem. The power switch has failed. The motor still starts and runs but no aux power. Fortunately I discovered this while installing a hard wired float switch to my bilge pump or I would not have had power to my bilge pump! 

After fighting the "rats nest" (I see what you guys are talking about) I found that it was a faulty power switch and that it is the same switch as the Bilge pump switch, so I swapped them since I now have an automatic switch anyway. I will be taking it to my local Mercury mechanic for the 20 hour service soon so I will report it then rather than deliver it to BP and wait two weeks to get my boat back. 

Tight lines!!!


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## highanddryinco

Welcome all you new guys...glad to see the popularity is growing.
Nice catch! That's a lifetime of fishing here in CO. Heading to Lake Michigan in a week...it'll be nice to see (catch) real fish again.
As far as water from the lower plug...I don't think I've ever had a drop. I'd be looking for open screw holes maybe back in the bilge where they secure the pump in place. Maybe some sealant needed under the transducer if you have one? Just throwing a couple things out there. Good luck. Let us know what you find.


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## Techguy802

highanddryinco said:


> Welcome all you new guys...glad to see the popularity is growing.
> Nice catch! That's a lifetime of fishing here in CO. Heading to Lake Michigan in a week...it'll be nice to see (catch) real fish again.
> As far as water from the lower plug...I don't think I've ever had a drop. I'd be looking for open screw holes maybe back in the bilge where they secure the pump in place. Maybe some sealant needed under the transducer if you have one? Just throwing a couple things out there. Good luck. Let us know what you find.


The boat is in the water until tonight. I plan on doing just that maybe after work tomorrow. I will post my findings.

Just waiting for storms to pass this morning then a guide friend of mine asked if we can go out this morning in MY boat! He likes to fish and it feels like work when he is on his boat. Can't wait!


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## Ron_S

FlatsCatFL said:


> Welcome, Ron_S. It's good to see another south Florida skiff owner on the forum.
> 
> I'm also in Lake Worth. Enjoy your new Skiff, it's a great coastal vessel. I was in Chokoloskee yesterday running/fishing around on the outside until the thunderstorms chased me back in. In a weird way I'm looking forward to jumping our local inlets wave havoc to get on the ocean reefs. I think the hull can take it! Cheers!


Thanks FlatsCatFL....Cool to hear you are local too. Trying to get the engine broke in. Then looking to tame the Boynton Beach Inlet very soon. Think this boat can handle it without a problem.


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## KiteboarderDoug

Future new owner here this coming Friday. 17' CC with the 60HP. Huge kudos to all you guys for the info. Without it I would have bought older and used. First boat of my own which will be used mainly around Sarasota Bay, out in the gulf a little, and down in the keys for fishing/scuba. Dealer wants to sell me a Hummingbird combo GPS/Depthfinder but I see the Lowrance alot. Looking for any advice. Also it looks like I should make them install the stern saver and not let them drill? Also if anyone can recommend a good boarding ladder for her since we will be swimming a lot. Friday can't get here soon enough! Keep all the posts coming!


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## yellowskeeter

Lowrance and humminbird both make great units. Play with both and see what unit fits you best.


----------



## LitUp

*ice chest*

Any of you guys have a latch on your cooler break yet and if so where do i get a replacement


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## charliel2

Thanks to this forum I received my 2013 Mako Pro Skiff 17 w/60hp on Thursday. Only been outtwice but loving the boat so far. Same issues as most...livewell pumps looses prime and I already broke one of the rubber hold downs on the cooler seat. Will get those fixed at the 20 hour check.

panhandlekelly - any luck with the prop slip? I have the 4-blade Spitfire and it slips pretty good while towing my kids on a kneeboard. I usually just have to trim the motor way down. I've also had luck with varying the weight front and back to get the boat more level.

Wondering if the motors are mounted too high? I need to check where my cavitation plate runs next time on the water but it just looks high in the driveway. Cavitation plate is above the keel.

Is everyone elses motors mounted the same? Second hole from the top?


----------



## Jonc

*Cooler latch*

Hey Litup..

The cooler latches are really a bad design as they do break easily. Mine broke the second week I used it however the dealer was able to order replacements from Mako. It's easy to use those latches to pull the lid shut when open but evidently they can't take the stress. I made sure I close it completely from the top first and no problems since.

Jonc


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## Jonc

*Cavitation plate*

Congrats on the new boat Charlie 2. I've had many boats over the years and although no expert by any means I've always understood the ideal cavitation plate set up is 1" above the keel.

I've never had any issue with prop blow out on the Pro Skiff however I do get some back wash in over the transom if my motor is trimmed completely down. A couple of bumps up and the water stays out of the boat. You may want to play with your trim a bit to see if that helps you any.

Jonc


----------



## charliel2

*Prop Slip*

Jonc - maybe I'm just used to boats with transoms that are straight up and down (perpendicular from the water). I am trimming the motor like I always have in my other boats. Start with the motor all the way down and trim up as you plane out. Keep trimming till you hear/feel the prop blwo out a bit and then bump the trim down a little from there. Doesn't always work with this boat/motor/prop setup when pulling a kneeboarder.

What prop are you running? I have the 4-blade Spitfire (10.1" X 14") I've only got 7 hours on the motor and have yet to go WOT so I don't yet know where my WOT RPM's are yet. 4-blades are supposed to "hold" better.


----------



## KiteboarderDoug

Charlie2 congrats on the boat. Getting the same setup on Friday. I know you haven't had it WOT, but based on what you done with kneeboarding, is there enough torque to pull a 200lb waterskier?


----------



## charliel2

*Waterski*

I am 230lbs and it pulled me on a kneeboard and there were 3 other people in the boat at the same time plus gear (full cooler, anchor&chain, front box loaded with towels/jackets/snorkel gear. I am sure it would pull a 200lb skier w/o a ton of effort. We run around 4000rpm when pulling kneeboards. Not sure what speed that is, I don't have my GPS installed yet. It's only a 60hp but the hull is very light. I am getting another kneeboard so my boys can go at the same time.


----------



## KiteboarderDoug

*Fisher Finder/GPS/Depth Recommendations Please*

My dealer is trying to sell me the Hummingbird 386 ci Combo. Seems like a good one for the price. Anybody have any thoughts? I am new to this so I would rather go by a recommendation from you guys. I will be fishing in Sarasota/Tampa area and maybe some keys 90% of the time.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Jonc

*Prop blow out*

In running the same prop Charlie2 but keep in mind I'm the only lone nut on the thread with a pro skiff 16 with the 40 hp Merc.... Once again, no expert but I'm guessing with all of the weight you had on board the stern was too low in the water particularly with the drag of the knee board. Simply put, the lower the cavitation plate is in the water the better chance you'll get aerated water to the prop and greater the chance for blow out.

That hull is designed with port and starboard strakes to punch the bad water away from the prop. I'd suggest driver, spotter and knee boarder, minimize the stern weight and see how she performs then. Or at the least move as much weight forward as you possibly can.

Good luck,

Jonc


----------



## highanddryinco

charliel2 said:


> Thanks to this forum I received my 2013 Mako Pro Skiff 17 w/60hp on Thursday. Only been outtwice but loving the boat so far. Same issues as most...livewell pumps looses prime and I already broke one of the rubber hold downs on the cooler seat. Will get those fixed at the 20 hour check.
> 
> panhandlekelly - any luck with the prop slip? I have the 4-blade Spitfire and it slips pretty good while towing my kids on a kneeboard. I usually just have to trim the motor way down. I've also had luck with varying the weight front and back to get the boat more level.
> 
> Wondering if the motors are mounted too high? I need to check where my cavitation plate runs next time on the water but it just looks high in the driveway. Cavitation plate is above the keel.
> 
> Is everyone elses motors mounted the same? Second hole from the top?


Charliel2,
Same motor position with mine. I too am fighting a problem that I first thought was prop slip. (Still not sure it isn't but I'm baffled) On hole shot, trimmed all the way down, as I approach 3500-4000 I get what would seem to be prop slip or an engine miss, fire, miss, fire situation until I get through about 4500 then everything clears up and runs beautiful. I've been fighting this for a year and it's very annoying. I've had it in, the local Merc (and Tracker) dealer had it on the dyno and assures me everything is checking out perfectly. He hasn't had time to take it to water yet to experience it for himself. The reason for my prop slip skepticism is even coming off plane on a decel, it'll start doing the same thing as I cross that RPM threshold. I'm heading up to WI this weekend and know a Merc Dealer right on the water. I'll see if he has time to plug in and go for a ride with me. I'll let you all know what comes of it.


----------



## panhandlekelly

LitUp said:


> Any of you guys have a latch on your cooler break yet and if so where do i get a replacement


Mine broke on the second outing. I read that the Yeti latches will work.


----------



## panhandlekelly

LitUp said:


> Any of you guys have a latch on your cooler break yet and if so where do i get a replacement





highanddryinco said:


> Charliel2,
> Same motor position with mine. I too am fighting a problem that I first thought was prop slip. (Still not sure it isn't but I'm baffled) On hole shot, trimmed all the way down, as I approach 3500-4000 I get what would seem to be prop slip or an engine miss, fire, miss, fire situation until I get through about 4500 then everything clears up and runs beautiful. I've been fighting this for a year and it's very annoying. I've had it in, the local Merc (and Tracker) dealer had it on the dyno and assures me everything is checking out perfectly. He hasn't had time to take it to water yet to experience it for himself. The reason for my prop slip skepticism is even coming off plane on a decel, it'll start doing the same thing as I cross that RPM threshold. I'm heading up to WI this weekend and know a Merc Dealer right on the water. I'll see if he has time to plug in and go for a ride with me. I'll let you all know what comes of it.


My rig is at BPS for the slipping prop problem. The motor is also in the second hole.


----------



## charliel2

*Prop Slip?*

Good to know other folks are having he same problem whether its the prop slip(Torqflex?) or engine miss.

PanhandleKelly/HighandDry - please post up if the BPS or the Merc dealer find anything out. Once one of us solve this then we all have. I am still 13 hours from my 20 hour maintenance check and I don't intend to take it in before that. Other than this occasional issue the boat/motor cruise smooth as silk.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*Maintenance scheduling*

Hello all! There has been mentioning of a 20 Hr. service for our Mercs. I can't find it. Mercs owners manual and web site maintenance state 100 Hrs.????


----------



## charliel2

*20 Hour Service*

Hmmm. I haven't looked in the Owners Manual to see if it was there. My BPS rep suggested the intial 20 hour check and then normal annual/100 hour checks thereafter.

He also informed me that the break-in with the 4 strokes was "just don't run it WOT for the first 20 hours". He said the old way of breaking in motors (no more than half throttle for first hour, no more than 3/4 throttle next hour, etc) was a carry over from 2 strokes. He said 4 stroke motors don't require that type of break in and it is better to run normal so the rings seat.

1. Run it normal with the exception of WOT for the first 20 hours.
2. 20 hour service.
3. Annual/100 hour service thereafter.


----------



## charliel2

*Engine Break-In*

*Here is Yamaha's Break-In...couldn't find Merc's.*

*FOUR STROKE OUTBOARDS*
*Interval**Procedure*

1st Hour - Operate the engine at varying speeds up to 2000 rpms or approximately 1/2 throttle.

2nd Hour - Increase the engine speed until the boat is on plane (but avoid full throttle operaton) and then back off on the throttle while keeping the boat at a planing speed.

Next 8 Hours - Run the engine at any speed however avoid operating at full throttle for more than 5 minutes at a time.

After the 1st 10 Hours - Operate the engine normally.

The break-in maintenance is at 20 hours. For the 10 hours after the break-in and before the service you can operate the engine normally.


----------



## charliel2

*YETI Cooler Latch Replacement*






Anyone tried replacing the latches with YETI ones? If so, are they better?

http://store.yeticoolers.com/replacement-latches-tundra-roadie/

http://store.yeticoolers.com/yeti-tundra-accessories/


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*Engine Breaking In*



FlatsCatFL said:


> Hello all! There has been mentioning of a 20 Hr. service for our Mercs. I can't find it. Mercs owners manual and web site maintenance state 100 Hrs.????


Here's the page on breaking in from the Mercury Owners Manual:


----------



## LitUp

Getting worried fellas today when i was out at the lake my 60hp merc started making a clanking sound when i would throttle down just about every time, anyone else ran into this issue?


----------



## highanddryinco

LitUp said:


> Getting worried fellas today when i was out at the lake my 60hp merc started making a clanking sound when i would throttle down just about every time, anyone else ran into this issue?


If it's like a ratcheting sound on deceleration...try slowing down a little bit slower. Otherwise the water rushing over the prop is keeping it spinning faster than the shaft is actually turning. It's a one way drive setup. Put your motor in gear (not running) while on the trailer. Spin the prop by hand and you'll hear what I'm talking about. Now imagine that happening real fast. :fish:


----------



## Winters97gt

highanddryinco said:


> If it's like a ratcheting sound on deceleration...try slowing down a little bit slower. Otherwise the water rushing over the prop is keeping it spinning faster than the shaft is actually turning. It's a one way drive setup. Put your motor in gear (not running) while on the trailer. Spin the prop by hand and you'll hear what I'm talking about. Now imagine that happening real fast. :fish:


This. That sound is normal.


----------



## Jonc

*Clanking sound*

Hey Lit Up.

The guys are right, it's the dog clutch that makes the clanking sound during rapid deceleration. Perfectly normal but obviously not good to do on a regular basis. Just slow it up a bit and all will be well.

Jonc


----------



## daveg

New to this forum. Thanks guys for the great info you share here.

I'm picking up my new Mako 17 this afternoon. Yeah....


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## KiteboarderDoug

Enjoy your new boat Dave, I pick mine up on Friday.


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## charliel2

*Congrats!*

Congrats on the new boat. Let the mods begin.


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## KiteboarderDoug

*Recommended Flushing Kit For 60HP*

Picking up boat on Sunday and all of our time will be in Florida salt water. Any recommendations for a flushing kit would be greatly appreciated!!


----------



## carlinsa

Fairly new to the sight but we picked up our mako with a 60 last Saturday. So far really like it


----------



## Techguy802

KiteboarderDoug said:


> Picking up boat on Sunday and all of our time will be in Florida salt water. Any recommendations for a flushing kit would be greatly appreciated!!


We are always in salt water as well. I flush the motor with muffs for 5 min after every use. I also make sure I rinse down the deck and bait well.

We live on a canal but do not have a lift so we put the boat in the water on Friday and trailer it either Sunday or Monday. I pressure wash the boat and trailer after every dip in the salt water.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*More Maintenance Info*

Hello all! Congrats to everyone who's picking up their new Mako Sleds. When the sun goes down on your new boat, hit the fridge for a cool one and your Merc owners manual. Check it out, a lot of the recent maintenance discussion topics are there for you in black and white. Cheers!

Sorry about the sideways pic, sometimes it comes out right and sometimes it doesn't.


----------



## Ox Eye

FlatsCatFL said:


> Check it out, a lot of the recent maintenance discussion topics are there for you in black and white.


It's a given that the OM was written with a lawyer looking over the writer's shoulder. There is nothing in the directions that would cause the prop to turn. But, because somebody out there would manage to engage the gears, anyway, *everybody* is instructed to unecessarily remove and re-install the prop. Ain't it great?


----------



## Techguy802

Ox Eye said:


> It's a given that the OM was written with a lawyer looking over the writer's shoulder. There is nothing in the directions that would cause the prop to turn. But, because somebody out there would manage to engage the gears, anyway, *everybody* is instructed to unecessarily remove and re-install the prop. Ain't it great?


Not that I will do it every time, but I have been told by two separate Charter Captains to pull the prop once a month or so if you run every week. Look for fishing line or other things that will damage the seal. Then coat the seal very liberally with marine grade grease to help prevent damage.

Also check the lower unit lube to make sure it is not milky, a sign of seal damage, weekly by simply cracking the plug and letting a drop or two out.

Lower units are expensive and fishing line cutting a seal is not a warranty covered repair.


----------



## Ox Eye

Techguy802 said:


> Not that I will do it every time, but I have been told by two separate Charter Captains to pull the prop once a month or so if you run every week. Look for fishing line or other things that will damage the seal. Then coat the seal very liberally with marine grade grease to help prevent damage.


There is sound reasoning behind that, outside of silly Manufacturer butt-covering manual directions, doncha see? If it makes sense and serves a purpose, I'm jiggy wit dat.


----------



## daveg

Thanks Charlie, had Bass Pro mount the Minn Kota 55, 50" and the Lowrance HDS 5. Going to try and get her in the water for the break in this afternoon. 

I really like the overhang at the gunwale. Will make it really simple for mounting rod holders, etc.


----------



## Ron_S

*Angle of the transom*



joebucko said:


> Modestmike,
> I am not quite sure what you are asking. The transducer for the Humminbird 597 DI is a bit odd shaped but can only be installed in one direction. It points directly to the rear behind the boat. One of the steps during installation is to determine the angle of the transom then you set the little toothed wheels on the transducer to match that angle. I puzzled over that for quite a while because I could no see any difference in the various settings. Rather than argue I just followed the instructions and it seems to work fine. It seemed to me that the big issue was trying to get the transducer located into the smoothest steadiest stream of water passing under the hull which is why I chose the spot I did. I was frankly a little surprised to see how little water our boats draft at full speed. It makes keeping any transducer submerged a challenge and is the primary source of the 'live well' pickup problem. I can take an overhead shot of the transducer if that would help?


joebucko..... I purchased the same Humminbird model. Do you recall what the angle of the transom was to set those little toothed wheels on the transducer? Hoping to get mine installed this weekend.


----------



## joebucko

Ron S, I am sorry but I don't recall the angle. In the instructions they show you a simple way to measure it to determine the angle and corresponding transducer cog settings. 
Good luck fishing the transducer cable to the console.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

joebucko said:


> Ron S, I am sorry but I don't recall the angle. In the instructions they show you a simple way to measure it to determine the angle and corresponding transducer cog settings.
> Good luck fishing the transducer cable to the console.


Ya, LOL! Fishing the rigging tube (especially by yourself) is our little "pay your dues" initiation for the Pro Skiff! (drag a pull string for the next one)

And Joebucko, I love your comment about how shallow the Pro Skiff drafts at WOT. I'm all about the 'skinny water' stuff. Last week in Chokoloskee I scrapped a oyster bar with the engine skeg giving it a "war wound" if you will, now the skiff has some "fishing creds".

I'm thinking about adding a "skeg shield" for some additional protection and bling, maybe entice a shark to bite my lower unit!!


----------



## joebucko

FlatsCatFl its obvious that I like Bling and I think a nice shiny skeg protector would look good. If I were running in your water I'd have one on my boat pronto.


----------



## OldManOwen

Hey Guys,
Just picked up my 2012 Mako Pro Skiff 17! Our local Bass Pro in TN had a leftover 2012 with the 40 HP Mercury. I wanted the 60 HP but we were able to swing the boat for $12,200 and I couldn't pass it up. I have been following the break in procedure to the T and have noticed something I need your help with. The engine will only reach 5200 RPM on flat water with the outboard trimmed up quite a bit. If I trim it down near flat it will drop to 5000 RPM! I checked Mercury's website and the engine should be running between 5500-6000 RPM at WOT and i'm way below that. Is there a way I can check the prop to see if I have the correct one installed? Shouldn't the boat be equipped from the dealer with the correct prop? It's a 4 blade aluminum prop and that's all I can tell by looking at it. 
Aside from the low top end RPM we love the boat. I have the Minn Kota Terrova and it's amazing! The local Bass Pro had NO IDEA how to fix the bait well issues (it didn't work from day one even if I goosed the throttle in reverse to "prime" it. I explained what it needed and they just walked in back and gave me a Vertical pump! I went ahead and ordered the EZ-Pump off ebay for $16. I raised the seat back above the bait well 1" and it opens and closes so much better now. I have also installed a Drift master rod holder at each corner and we got the Carver boat cover from the eBay seller "ARTICALS" as mentioned here on the forum, it fits GREAT even with the Terrova. I have learned so much from this forum even though I am located in TN (Lake Norris stripers!!). I wanted to thank everyone because I had pretty much all the bugs worked out (except the low WOT RPM issue) before we even put the boat into the lake! 
Thanks again for the great forum/thread and if you can help me out with the prop issue I would be very grateful!

Nathan M Owen
SSGT USMC RETIRED

Katie Couric, while interviewing a Marine sniper, asked: 

"What do you feel when you shoot a terrorist?" 

The Marine shrugged and replied: "Recoil."


----------



## OldManOwen

Sorry forgot the picture, the wife took it sooo yeah. I'll get better ones soon, with Stripers I hope!



Nathan M Owen
SSGT USMC RETIRED

Katie Couric, while interviewing a Marine sniper, asked:

"What do you feel when you shoot a terrorist?"

The Marine shrugged and replied: "Recoil."


----------



## Winters97gt

Congrats on the boat, Nathan. 

My SS Vengence prop is a 3 blade. It maxes out around 5500rpm trimmed down, and 5900rpm trimmed up. Maybe the boat experts can give a little more insight, but I'd probably be running a 3 blade on a 40hp outboard.


----------



## Techguy802

Winters97gt said:


> Congrats on the boat, Nathan.
> 
> My SS Vengence prop is a 3 blade. It maxes out around 5500rpm trimmed down, and 5900rpm trimmed up. Maybe the boat experts can give a little more insight, but I'd probably be running a 3 blade on a 40hp outboard.


Ask around at the marinas. Find the pros on the water and ask them who knows about props. Living on the coast we have a local "prop house" that knows everything there is to know about props.

I will try to get their number and post it over the next few days. I plan on calling them myself but haven't had time.


----------



## joebucko

Congratulations OldManOwen on your new Pro Skiff. I use mine exclusively on North Texas lakes and feel that its the perfect inland lake boat. My buddies all have traditional carpeted bass boats and they love my open cockpit, vertical rod storage, wash and wear interior and the stability of the Pro Skiff.

I suspect your low RPM is associated with the pitch on your 4 blade prop. I have the 60HP motor and mine came with a 10 3/8"X 14P aluminum Mercury Blackmax 3 blade prop. I could only get 5700 rpms so I ordered a replacement 10 3/8"X13P aluminum BlackMax 3blade and it pegs exactly at 6000rpm. My top end speed with both props was 34mph but I wanted the engine to run as close to the top end 6000rpm as I could get so the 14P is now carried as my spare. 

I'd like to hear from some of the other guys who run either the 4blade spitfire or stainless steel props on their performance numbers for comparison. I suspect that stainless is better for the coastal guys running in the oyster beds.

Finally I have a Terrova on my boat and it is absolutely wonderful.


----------



## OldManOwen

Hey guys,
I just went out and with a flashlight was able to read the markings on the prop witch read 8M8026625. I looked it up and came up with...

Mercury Spitfire 12 Pitch X 10.6 Diameter. 

If i'm maxed out at 5200 RPM with the 40 HP EFI what change or part number of the same Model prop would be a good upgrade? I'm wondering from you guys with the 60 HP model if they just used the same exact prop and the 40 HP just can't push it? Thanks again!

Nathan M Owen
SSGT USMC RETIRED

Katie Couric, while interviewing a Marine sniper, asked: 

"What do you feel when you shoot a terrorist?" 

The Marine shrugged and replied: "Recoil."


----------



## joebucko

OldManOwen,
As I said I have a Terrova also and the first thing I did was add a Trolling motor shaft support. When you hit chop the head will dance up and down quite a bit. It is possible for it to actually hit the deck. The shaft support also eliminates the possibility for the motor to "self deploy" while you are running full throttle down the lake. I read several horror stories about Terrovas that were not firmly locked in the vertical position and did not have any shaft support deploying while under way. Most of the time this results in the entire motor assembly tearing itself off the bow and sinking. Here are a couple of pictures of my support made from RamMount components.


----------



## OldManOwen

joebucko said:


> OldManOwen,
> As I said I have a Terrova also and the first thing I did was add a Trolling motor shaft support. When you hit chop the head will dance up and down quite a bit. It is possible for it to actually hit the deck. The shaft support also eliminates the possibility for the motor to "self deploy" while you are running full throttle down the lake. I read several horror stories about Terrovas that were not firmly locked in the vertical position and did not have any shaft support deploying while under way. Most of the time this results in the entire motor assembly tearing itself off the bow and sinking. Here are a couple of pictures of my support made from RamMount components.


You got me worried now! I have not noticed it bouncing but then i'm not usually looking either. Is there anyway you could link up the parts you used or where you sourced them? Thanks!

Nathan M Owen
SSGT USMC RETIRED

Katie Couric, while interviewing a Marine sniper, asked:

"What do you feel when you shoot a terrorist?"

The Marine shrugged and replied: "Recoil."


----------



## yellowskeeter

It's a kit made by ram. You can find it on their sight.


----------



## joebucko

OldManOwen
I am sure there are several manufacturers of trolling motor stabilizers. I used RamMount. Here is the link to their site and the mount you will need.
http://www.rammount.com/CatalogResu.../partid/082065077045049048056085/Default.aspx

Ram Mount part number: RAM-108-U $50.87
Depending on how your motor is mounted you may need to shim the stabilizer up a little bit. I used a small piece of 3/4" white Starboard under mine.

My mount actually saved my motor from deploying one day when a friend and I were fishing. He pulled up the trolling motor but failed to fully lock it into the cradle. He did lock the Ram Mount stabilizer and this held the motor in place until we reached out next fishing spot. As soon as I loosened the rammount the motor slid forward. I was really glad I had it.


----------



## Ron_S

FlatsCatFL said:


> Ya, LOL! Fishing the rigging tube (especially by yourself) is our little "pay your dues" initiation for the Pro Skiff! (drag a pull string for the next one)
> 
> And Joebucko, I love your comment about how shallow the Pro Skiff drafts at WOT. I'm all about the 'skinny water' stuff. Last week in Chokoloskee I scrapped a oyster bar with the engine skeg giving it a "war wound" if you will, now the skiff has some "fishing creds".
> 
> I'm thinking about adding a "skeg shield" for some additional protection and bling, maybe entice a shark to bite my lower unit!!


FlatsCatFl....went very well today, cables pulled, fishfinder mounted, stern saver installed... Tomorrow, transducer mounted.... Just in time for opening lobster season down in the Keys


----------



## panhandlekelly

Picked up my boat today from BPS. They lowered the motor to the last hole and changed my prop from the 3 blade vegence to a 4 blade stainless, didn't look at model. Plan to take it out to test tomorrow to see if this solved the "prop slip" problem. They also installed a new cooler, haven't had the opportunity to test it with a light to see if it has full insulation as demonstrated in an earlier post. My boat is a 2013 and has the re-routed plumbing in the baitwell, I was having a problem with the pump "air locking" and not moving water. Service department said they could not duplicate the problem. Guess I will have to figure it out on my own. All in all, my experience with BPS and this warranty work was a lot better than the whole purchasing ordeal.


----------



## charliel2

*New Boat Position/Prop*

Interested to see how the new positioning and prop work out for you. Let us know the prop info when you get a chance. Took mine out today with a full load and still having the prop slip issues when trying to get on plane.

Cruises at 4200rpm @ 20mph and does fine with a light load, 5800rpm and 32mph with 3 adults in the boat. 4 blade Spitife (aluminum) 10.1 x 14". Powertech props says I should go with e stainless 4 blade, 10.25 x 13".


----------



## Winters97gt

I wish the boat was rated a little higher hp wise. I'd really like to stick an Etec 90 on the back of mine, I think the added 80 pounds in the rear would be offset by the extra power during a shallow holeshot.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

Ron_S said:


> FlatsCatFl....went very well today, cables pulled, fishfinder mounted, stern saver installed... Tomorrow, transducer mounted.... Just in time for opening lobster season down in the Keys


Ron_S, sounds like the mods are moving at warp speed. Good luck with the Spineys. Tight lines, cheers!


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*etec 90*



Winters97gt said:


> I wish the boat was rated a little higher hp wise. I'd really like to stick an Etec 90 on the back of mine, I think the added 80 pounds in the rear would be offset by the extra power during a shallow holeshot.


Winters97gt, new boat owner (me) stupind question: why not hang a 90 on the back? Is it because the Skiff's transom is only rated for a certain HP or is it a Coast Guard issue?


----------



## MakoSkiff

panhandlekelly said:


> Picked up my boat today from BPS. They lowered the motor to the last hole and changed my prop from the 3 blade vegence to a 4 blade stainless, didn't look at model. Plan to take it out to test tomorrow to see if this solved the "prop slip" problem. They also installed a new cooler, haven't had the opportunity to test it with a light to see if it has full insulation as demonstrated in an earlier post. My boat is a 2013 and has the re-routed plumbing in the baitwell, I was having a problem with the pump "air locking" and not moving water. Service department said they could not duplicate the problem. Guess I will have to figure it out on my own. All in all, my experience with BPS and this warranty work was a lot better than the whole purchasing ordeal.


 Did they do all this under warranty or did you have to pay for the prop and the engine repositioning?


----------



## panhandlekelly

MakoSkiff said:


> Did they do all this under warranty or did you have to pay for the prop and the engine repositioning?


All under warranty!
BTW, the 4 blade prop is a Trophy Sport stainless 14P. The other prop was a Vengence stainless in 13P. A little concerned with the motor set this low, we'll see. Going for a test run in a couple of hours and might as well try to catch a few mullet.


----------



## samredarmy

Have a dreamy ride! My best wishes for you man. Just chill. Be cool haeded


----------



## KiteboarderDoug

We picked up the boat today! Realized we need a few things so wanted to find out what size and style anchor you guys recommend. Mainly bay fishing in Florida.


----------



## highanddryinco

FlatsCatFL said:


> Winters97gt, new boat owner (me) stupind question: why not hang a 90 on the back? Is it because the Skiff's transom is only rated for a certain HP or is it a Coast Guard issue?


I think a 90 would be fine except that it would probably launch you and or a passenger over board on a tight turn


----------



## rgourley11

OldManOwen said:


> Sorry forgot the picture, the wife took it sooo yeah. I'll get better ones soon, with Stripers I hope!
> 
> 
> 
> Nathan M Owen
> SSGT USMC RETIRED
> 
> Katie Couric, while interviewing a Marine sniper, asked:
> 
> "What do you feel when you shoot a terrorist?"
> 
> The Marine shrugged and replied: "Recoil."


you have any pic on how they did your troll motor and battery. Fixing to mount a riptide on mine and been looking at everyone setup. Thanks


----------



## Winters97gt

FlatsCatFL said:


> Winters97gt, new boat owner (me) stupind question: why not hang a 90 on the back? Is it because the Skiff's transom is only rated for a certain HP or is it a Coast Guard issue?


Yeah, the coast guard has the boat rated for 60hp. Adding anymore than rated will make it impossible to get insured, then if an accident were to happen, you'd be in hot water.

Nailed 4 keepers today in about 2 hours(had to sneak out while the wife was at the gym). Put in at the Texas City Dike and made the haul to East Bay. The reason I'd like more motor is to cover more water. That haul across Galveston bay hitting different spots takes longer than I'd like. But my wallet sure does appreciate the fuel efficiency of the little Merc 60.


----------



## Techguy802

Ok guys. Here is the worst I have seen it. This is after two solid days of fishing with the bait well overflowing a lot causing a lot of water on the floor of the boat. I have proven though that the water is coming from the inside and not through the hull by simply running water into the floor with the hose and having a lot of water in the hull.

It is too much too fast to be a simple screw hole leaking because minutes after running water in the boat with a hose to test a new bilge pump float switch, I had gallons of water in the hull. A screw hole might have let a little but not gallons.

I will be taking it to BP for this along with the bad switch and broken cooler latches.

I am still very pleased with the boat overall! Had a blast getting spooled 4 times this morning in Captiva Pass by some very large Snook and one Tarpon!


----------



## charliel2

*Water*

How about the hole where the cables/electrical are run. It sits in an area that is lower than the floor. Water is supposed to puddle there so the bildge pump can pump it out I reckon.


----------



## Winters97gt

That's not good at all.


----------



## MakoSkiff

Techguy802 said:


> Ok guys. Here is the worst I have seen it. This is after two solid days of fishing with the bait well overflowing a lot causing a lot of water on the floor of the boat. I have proven though that the water is coming from the inside and not through the hull by simply running water into the floor with the hose and having a lot of water in the hull.
> 
> It is too much too fast to be a simple screw hole leaking because minutes after running water in the boat with a hose to test a new bilge pump float switch, I had gallons of water in the hull. A screw hole might have let a little but not gallons.
> 
> I will be taking it to BP for this along with the bad switch and broken cooler latches.
> 
> I am still very pleased with the boat overall! Had a blast getting spooled 4 times this morning in Captiva Pass by some very large Snook and one Tarpon!


 Holy ****, enough water gets in there and it'll sink! maybe a broken hose from the livewell. make sure everything mounted to the deck is sealed with marim]ne sealant 5200m.(console ,gas tank, battery box and cooler strap eyes). none of these come sealed from factory, they just bolt things in with no sealant. the hull and liner don't have any sealant either. just glassed in and riveted.


----------



## highanddryinco

That is definitely wrong. Agreed that it's more than a screw hole in the deck. I'd be looking for a cracked hull, a leak at one of the thru hull fittings, or a big gap between the hull and the liner that is catching spray from underneath.


----------



## highanddryinco

My bad. I read your post incorrectly. I can't imagine where that much water is coming from above the deck and getting below the deck. Very strange.


----------



## panhandlekelly

panhandlekelly said:


> All under warranty!
> BTW, the 4 blade prop is a Trophy Sport stainless 14P. The other prop was a Vengence stainless in 13P. A little concerned with the motor set this low, we'll see. Going for a test run in a couple of hours and might as well try to catch a few mullet.


Went for a long test run this afternoon. Had a little prop slip on the hole shot, but the bay was a little choopy. I looked for calmer water and did some tite turns, prop slip/cavitation was worse. RPM's were about 5200 and the speed was right at 30 MPH. I did have 3 large men in the boat, I estimate the weight for the occupants to be close to 700#. I will take it out again by myself and hopefully in calmer water. 
The bait well pump did not move water, made a little noise. I pulled the motor cartridge out and the impeler was off of the shaft.
Guess I will be calling BPS tomorrow


----------



## daveg

*Miss Fire*



highanddryinco said:


> Charliel2,
> Same motor position with mine. I too am fighting a problem that I first thought was prop slip. (Still not sure it isn't but I'm baffled) On hole shot, trimmed all the way down, as I approach 3500-4000 I get what would seem to be prop slip or an engine miss, fire, miss, fire situation until I get through about 4500 then everything clears up and runs beautiful. I've been fighting this for a year and it's very annoying. I've had it in, the local Merc (and Tracker) dealer had it on the dyno and assures me everything is checking out perfectly. He hasn't had time to take it to water yet to experience it for himself. The reason for my prop slip skepticism is even coming off plane on a decel, it'll start doing the same thing as I cross that RPM threshold. I'm heading up to WI this weekend and know a Merc Dealer right on the water. I'll see if he has time to plug in and go for a ride with me. I'll let you all know what comes of it.


I've only had my boat out 1 time for the engine break in, but seem to have the same issue with miss fire in a similar RPM range. I'd like to know if you get any answers from Merc.

Dave
OK City


----------



## charliel2

*Misfire*

dave - next time out watch your rpm gauge when this happens. If your rpm's bump up when it happens then you are most likely getting slippage at the prop.

I am getting the same issue but only when I am fairly heavily loaded with 3+ people or when pulling kneeboarder(s). I went out last evening with my 11 year old and never had the first slip. Other than the baitwell the boat was perfect.


----------



## charliel2

*Misfire*

As far as a certain rpm range: is it an rpm range or boat angle during that range? The bottoms of these skiffs are pretty complex and certain angles of attack (hull to water angle) might produce some disturbance in the water flow out the back of the boat. That "dirty" water might be introducing air into the prop.

I'm just trying to throw out some possibilities...


----------



## eyesneers

*prop slippage*

I get the same "miss" when going on plane from day one. I thought it was a miss till I started pulling the kids on a tube- and notice the same thing happened when I was goofing around in wakes and the engine skips a little out of the water. I have finally concluded it doesn't take much to get the prop just out of the water enough to suck air and make you think you are missing.


----------



## OldManOwen

eyesneers said:


> I get the same "miss" when going on plane from day one. I thought it was a miss till I started pulling the kids on a tube- and notice the same thing happened when I was goofing around in wakes and the engine skips a little out of the water. I have finally concluded it doesn't take much to get the prop just out of the water enough to suck air and make you think you are missing.


eyesneers,
Would you mind explaining how you set up the boat to pull a tube? I have never pulled one but my little boy keeps looking longingly in their direction every time a ski boat goes by pulling one. I did some research and it seems some people pull them from the tie-down "eye's" on the transom. I don't know why but for some reason this scares me, I have nightmares of them pulling out and destroying my boat!

Nathan M Owen
SSGT USMC RETIRED

Katie Couric, while interviewing a Marine sniper, asked:

"What do you feel when you shoot a terrorist?"

The Marine shrugged and replied: "Recoil."


----------



## FlatsCatFL

Techguy802 said:


> Ok guys. Here is the worst I have seen it. This is after two solid days of fishing with the bait well overflowing a lot causing a lot of water on the floor of the boat. I have proven though that the water is coming from the inside and not through the hull by simply running water into the floor with the hose and having a lot of water in the hull.
> 
> It is too much too fast to be a simple screw hole leaking because minutes after running water in the boat with a hose to test a new bilge pump float switch, I had gallons of water in the hull. A screw hole might have let a little but not gallons.
> 
> I will be taking it to BP for this along with the bad switch and broken cooler latches.
> 
> I am still very pleased with the boat overall! Had a blast getting spooled 4 times this morning in Captiva Pass by some very large Snook and one Tarpon!


Awhile back I posted about my bait well overflowing during some break in time. I had a loaded down boat and was traveling close to WOT when the baitwell flooded heavily covering the entire walking area of the floor with several inches of water.

When I got back to the house I also had an unusual amount of water out of the hull plug hole. My guess is that the rigging tube is NOT a sealed solid raceway from console to stern. Stray water invades the open areas around the rigging tube and hull and floods the hull cavity.

Now that Techguy802 has duplicated my incident it confirms my suspicions and does not leave a very comfortable feeling about our skiffs taking on stray water. The real scary part about this scenario is that the stray water bypasses the bilge pump because water fills the hull cavity first seeking it's lowest point.

H&DnCO, I think it's time you got your eyeball scope out to look into the hull drain. Maybe you can shed some light (ha,ha) up that hull cavity drain hole for us.

Meanwhile, anyone interested could stick their garden hose in the console rigging tube and turn the water on to see what the results might be.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*A Mod Idea*

Has anyone else considered this mod for the 17 Pro Skiff: a) Moving the starting battery under the console, and b) replacing the 6 gal. fuel tank with a low profile 12 gal. centered under the rear casting deck?


----------



## panhandlekelly

FlatsCatFL said:


> Has anyone else considered this mod for the 17 Pro Skiff: a) Moving the starting battery under the console, and b) replacing the 6 gal. fuel tank with a low profile 12 gal. centered under the rear casting deck?


I would think running the battery cables to the console would be real b***h!
I just added another 6 gl gas tank under the rear casting deck. I centered the battery and put the gas tanks on either side. I figured the trolling motor battery installed under the bow would help offset the weight.


----------



## Techguy802

FlatsCatFL said:


> Awhile back I posted about my bait well overflowing during some break in time. I had a loaded down boat and was traveling close to WOT when the baitwell flooded heavily covering the entire walking area of the floor with several inches of water.
> 
> When I got back to the house I also had an unusual amount of water out of the hull plug hole. My guess is that the rigging tube is NOT a sealed solid raceway from console to stern. Stray water invades the open areas around the rigging tube and hull and floods the hull cavity.
> 
> Now that Techguy802 has duplicated my incident it confirms my suspicions and does not leave a very comfortable feeling about our skiffs taking on stray water. The real scary part about this scenario is that the stray water bypasses the bilge pump because water fills the hull cavity first seeking it's lowest point.
> 
> H&DnCO, I think it's time you got your eyeball scope out to look into the hull drain. Maybe you can shed some light (ha,ha) up that hull cavity drain hole for us.
> 
> Meanwhile, anyone interested could stick their garden hose in the console rigging tube and turn the water on to see what the results might be.


If that is the case, I wonder how some removable fire putty would hold up to the salt water in those openings?

Also, I have not looked for one yet, but what about a stand pipe drain instead of just plugging the hole at the bottom of the bait well?


----------



## Jerry-rigged

OldManOwen said:


> eyesneers,
> Would you mind explaining how you set up the boat to pull a tube? I have never pulled one but my little boy keeps looking longingly in their direction every time a ski boat goes by pulling one. I did some research and it seems some people pull them from the tie-down "eye's" on the transom. I don't know why but for some reason this scares me, I have nightmares of them pulling out and destroying my boat!
> 
> Nathan M Owen
> SSGT USMC RETIRED
> 
> Katie Couric, while interviewing a Marine sniper, asked:
> 
> "What do you feel when you shoot a terrorist?"
> 
> The Marine shrugged and replied: "Recoil."


I am not a mako owner, but I have pulled skiers on several boats using those transom eyes. I would just make sure they are thru bolted with proper backing plates before using them.

Also, if you don't know - you can't just tie the rope off to one of the eyes - you need to make a trolley/pulley between the two eyes, and connect the ski rope to the pulley.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*Fire Caulk/Putty*

Techguy802, I would not use any fire stop product in wet environments. I routinely use the stuff for wall penetrations on dry interior applications only.


----------



## daveg

*Miss fire or slippage*



charliel2 said:


> dave - next time out watch your rpm gauge when this happens. If your rpm's bump up when it happens then you are most likely getting slippage at the prop.
> 
> I am getting the same issue but only when I am fairly heavily loaded with 3+ people or when pulling kneeboarder(s). I went out last evening with my 11 year old and never had the first slip. Other than the baitwell the boat was perfect.


Charlie,
The RPM gauge did bump up, and I did have the boat loaded down pretty well. Next time out I'll try it with just myself and see what happens. Thanks

Another question: Other than practice, any secrets to loading the Mako? I fish a lot by myself in the winter and need to get the loading nailed down. 1st time with two of us we looked like fools. (I'm used to a 14' aluminum with a 15hp tiller).


----------



## KeithD.

*Loading Boat*

Daveg
I have found that the best way for me is to sink the trailer quite a bit. BPS reccomended to roughly 3/4 to almost all of the fender should be under water. I have found it needs to be sunk even more. I sink the trailer more than that and drive it right up on the trailer. At that point you can lean over the bow and hook up your strap. Then I just pull out and secure the rest of the boat.


----------



## Techguy802

FlatsCatFL said:


> Techguy802, I would not use any fire stop product in wet environments. I routinely use the stuff for wall penetrations on dry interior applications only.


Sorry, my mind was thinking like but by the time I typed it I lost some of the thought process. I don't want that nasty red stuff on my boat either. 

Maybe someone on here has a an idea of something?


----------



## panhandlekelly

Jerry-rigged said:


> I am not a mako owner, but I have pulled skiers on several boats using those transom eyes. I would just make sure they are thru bolted with proper backing plates before using them.
> 
> Also, if you don't know - you can't just tie the rope off to one of the eyes - you need to make a trolley/pulley between the two eyes, and connect the ski rope to the pulley.


For what it's worth, while at BPS waiting to pick up my boat, I saw a fully rigged boat in the shop hanging from a trolley winch connected to the transome eyelets.


----------



## OldManOwen

panhandlekelly said:


> For what it's worth, while at BPS waiting to pick up my boat, I saw a fully rigged boat in the shop hanging from a trolley winch connected to the transome eyelets.


Holy cow!  When you say hanging you don't just mean supporting the aft portion of the boat you mean actually hanging in the air? I guess that shows how strong that connection point can be but I'd be ****** if that was my boat lol!

-Nate


----------



## Damcc

Hello all. I'm Dan and I too am a pro skiff owner (17ft-60hp). First off I love my boat, the stability and ride is unreal even when compared to my offshore makos. But the prop slip drives me insane. From 35-4100 it's the worst and I took it back to the dealer to look for a miss. Three weeks later I got it back untouched except for some nasty scars on the lower unit where they I guess ran it aground and a recommendation to buy a new prop and go up a size in pitch. (I payed the extra $$ to have them put a stainless prop on it, they selected a vengeance 13p) as with just me it'll hit 6200 at wot if your not watching it to back it down to 6k. I usually don't run my boat up that high and at the moment I'm not keen into dropping another 350 on a prop till I find a used aluminum to try and ill have this one rep itched for around 80.00 in Houston. Anyways I've been on a mission to solve this prop slip thing and have come up with two possible solutions one being a hydrofoil that I installed yesterday (waiting for a slow day at work so I can test it). The other thing I noticed while clamping the tail on the cavitation plate is that the high speed livewell pickup hangs lower than the bottom of the hull in the back by about 3/4" very close to being in line with the starboard side of the prop blades. I'm not a physicist but being this engine is a standard rotator wouldn't the starboard have slightly more surface suction (1:00 position)than the port side which should pull more from the bottom (7:00) of the lower unit with a slightly positive effect towards the 11:00 area of the prop circle? I'm wondering if moving the pickup to the other side will eliminate this issue... This is an awesome thread keep it going guys


----------



## panhandlekelly

OldManOwen said:


> Holy cow!  When you say hanging you don't just mean supporting the aft portion of the boat you mean actually hanging in the air? I guess that shows how strong that connection point can be but I'd be ****** if that was my boat lol!
> 
> -Nate


Yes, the bow was hanging in a sling from the overhead lift and the transom was hanging from 2 strps attached to the tow rings. I was amazed.


----------



## joebucko

Welcome DAMCC.
There are many actual ProSkiff owners on this site and we share lots of great information. I have the 17/60 as well and run a standard 3 blade aluminum BlackMax 13P prop. WOT is 6000 and 34mph (35 with a good wind to my back). I probably carry more weight than anybody because of my options. Probably because of ignorance I haven't noticed much prop slip but I will pay more attention when I go out this Thursday and Friday. I am very interested in the results of your hydrofoil test.


----------



## LUISJG

thinking in buying a 17- 60 new,... for what I read here,, i might be in the right track


..


----------



## eyesneers

*Pulling a tube*



OldManOwen said:


> eyesneers,
> Would you mind explaining how you set up the boat to pull a tube? I have never pulled one but my little boy keeps looking longingly in their direction every time a ski boat goes by pulling one. I did some research and it seems some people pull them from the tie-down "eye's" on the transom. I don't know why but for some reason this scares me, I have nightmares of them pulling out and destroying my boat!
> 
> Nathan M Owen
> SSGT USMC RETIRED
> 
> Katie Couric, while interviewing a Marine sniper, asked:
> 
> "What do you feel when you shoot a terrorist?"
> 
> The Marine shrugged and replied: "Recoil."


 I hook up to those two tie down eyes- and have pulled my full grown 250lb son without any problems. You can buy the hook up pretty cheap at any boating place. The most important thing I can pass on is get a "4K Towable Booster Ball" to keep your towline out of the wake. The Eye hookups are too low and without the ball the rope snags and drags in the wake on turns- the Booster ball is about $100 but improves the performance dramatically(I couldn't get my older son up on plane before I got it- now I have towed two kids at one time).


----------



## panhandlekelly

I am trying to locate a 9" round backing plate for the installation of a rear seat. I saw one online a while back, but for the life of me I can't find it.

Any ideas?


----------



## Techguy802

panhandlekelly said:


> Yes, the bow was hanging in a sling from the overhead lift and the transom was hanging from 2 strps attached to the tow rings. I was amazed.


I would think they would be fine to pull a tube or skier. I see Carolina's and other brands hanging from those eyes all of the time in davits down here.


----------



## panhandlekelly

panhandlekelly said:


> Went for a long test run this afternoon. Had a little prop slip on the hole shot, but the bay was a little choopy. I looked for calmer water and did some tite turns, prop slip/cavitation was worse. RPM's were about 5200 and the speed was right at 30 MPH. I did have 3 large men in the boat, I estimate the weight for the occupants to be close to 700#. I will take it out again by myself and hopefully in calmer water.
> The bait well pump did not move water, made a little noise. I pulled the motor cartridge out and the impeler was off of the shaft.
> Guess I will be calling BPS tomorrow


OK, took the boat out today, alone, and it seemed to run fine. I think the 4 blade prop solved the problem, no loss of top end speed. I was able to get the RPM's to about 5200-5600. I could reach about 5800 if I pushed it, but it started porposeing more than I like. I can live with it like it is if BPS says the RPM range is good, Mercury manual says a range of 5500-6000 I believe.
The livewell pump is hit and miss. Either take out the motor and put it back in or back up fast and break the air lock. That's really iritating. I will talk to BPS about it. 
The new ice chest is missing insulation on one side, that's an improvement. I may just remove the "feet" from the bottom and spray some Door and Window foam using a small hose that will fit the "straw" on the can.


----------



## Damcc

Took the little mako out today with the stingray solstice hydrofoil alone. Bays fairly ruff but wow I feel like I dropped that boat off at manners school. Holeshot was improved considerably (not that it was bad before but now it's like instaplane). Prop-slip was pretty much extinguished in the 3800-4000 range though i plan on testing again this weekend with a friend to see how it reacts under more load. i only had me (210lbs) a semi stocked cooler and a livewell full of mullets (defective mullets I might add) ...Rpms are still a little high 6000-6100 @ wot so a trip to the prop shop may still be in order. Overall it feels faster but that may be cause I was able to trim it out more without porpoising.


----------



## Ox Eye

OldManOwen said:


> Holy cow!  When you say hanging you don't just mean supporting the aft portion of the boat you mean actually hanging in the air? I guess that shows how strong that connection point can be but I'd be ****** if that was my boat lol!
> 
> -Nate


Years ago, my wife's folks owned a canal home in Rockport. Their boat lift consisted of two rear cables/w hooks and one forward. They were hooked into the rear tie-down eyelets and the bow loading strap eyelet. It held up a 21 foot Grady White ... sometimes for weeks. That was the way most lifts were rigged, then. Those eyelets are stronger than you might think.

Question: Just how shallow do the 17 ft Makos run with factory equipment?


----------



## Techguy802

Ox Eye said:


> Years ago, my wife's folks owned a canal home in Rockport. Their boat lift consisted of two rear cables/w hooks and one forward. They were hooked into the rear tie-down eyelets and the bow loading strap eyelet. It held up a 21 foot Grady White ... sometimes for weeks. That was the way most lifts were rigged, then. Those eyelets are stronger than you might think.
> 
> Question: Just how shallow do the 17 ft Makos run with factory equipment?


I have crossed sand bars that were <1' on plane without an issue. Just make sure your trimmed up!

I have also idled into 12-14" water then tilted up and either pushed in or used the trolling motor.

Both of these scenarios were about 2/3 of capacity loading.

Tight lines!!!


----------



## joebucko

DAMCC
You said you installed a 'stingray solstice hydrofoil'. I looked on the Stingray site but did not see a model by that name. Could it have been something else?

I fished this morning and paid attention to my boat during my hole shots and I too am experiencing some prop slippage in the 4000-4500rpm range. It doesn't last long but is noticeable. I had not thought about a hydrofoil but if it corrects this issue and solves the porpoise issue at WOT then it might be worth a try.


----------



## Damcc

My bad stingray starfire ( there both astronomical events so I was close) they run 69.00 at academy and its a no drill slip on. While it doesn't completely whipe out the porpoising i think it helps out considerable. I noticed some of the other cat style boats use a prop with allot of cup to eliminate it . Any thoughts?


----------



## eyesneers

*trolling motor*



rgourley11 said:


> you have any pic on how they did your troll motor and battery. Fixing to mount a riptide on mine and been looking at everyone setup. Thanks


I had mine installed at the dealer when I bought the boat. They put a plug in the deck just to the right of the trolling motor and put the battery up front on the left side underneath where the trolling motor sits. I have been pleased with the setup. I can get you pictures if you want them.


----------



## joebucko

Thanks DAMCC
I think I'll let you run with yours for a while to see how it performs and what kind of speed, handling your get in differing conditions. Please keep us updated.


----------



## rgourley11

eyesneers said:


> I had mine installed at the dealer when I bought the boat. They put a plug in the deck just to the right of the trolling motor and put the battery up front on the left side underneath where the trolling motor sits. I have been pleased with the setup. I can get you pictures if you want them.


Can you send me some pics thanks


----------



## eyesneers

*trolling motor pictures*

Here are my trolling motor mount pictures. Hope this helps!


----------



## FlyItAll

*New member with 17' Mako Skiff*

Hello to all of you! New 17' owner here, the $1500 off pushed me off the fence. The other thing that helped convince me was this forum. A big "Thank You" to each of you who have contributed information, I'll try to do the same as soon as I get a little smarter on the boat. I have read all the postings and done lots of online research of my own regarding accessories. I have stuff on order including the ladder and bow cleat that joebucko used and will begin installations as soon as things arrive. I've lived in Arizona my whole life and will use the boat primarily on Arizona lakes and in the tail water called Lee's Ferry. I am a fly fisherman and also fish a lot in SE Florida. Tight lines!


----------



## FlatsCatFL

FlyItAll said:


> Hello to all of you! New 17' owner here, the $1500 off pushed me off the fence. The other thing that helped convince me was this forum. A big "Thank You" to each of you who have contributed information, I'll try to do the same as soon as I get a little smarter on the boat. I have read all the postings and done lots of online research of my own regarding accessories. I have stuff on order including the ladder and bow cleat that joebucko used and will begin installations as soon as things arrive. I've lived in Arizona my whole life and will use the boat primarily on Arizona lakes and in the tail water called Lee's Ferry. I am a fly fisherman and also fish a lot in SE Florida. Tight lines!


congrats on the new sled. where in SE florida do you FF?


----------



## FlyItAll

FlatsCat - I normally fish the beaches at Dania and Hobe Sound for Snook (that has been real slow this year) and out of Flamingo for Tarpon, Jacks, Snook, and Trout. I am going out tomorrow for Bonita out of Jupiter.


----------



## panhandlekelly

I know there have been many conversations about the baitwell pumps and "air locking", has anyone figured out how to solve this?
My set up is the "improved" 2013 version with the Johnson pump.


----------



## Techguy802

panhandlekelly said:


> I know there have been many conversations about the baitwell pumps and "air locking", has anyone figured out how to solve this?
> My set up is the "improved" 2013 version with the Johnson pump.


I haven't seen one on here yet. For me at least if I leave it on and not let it cycle on auto it seems to hold prime. That presents the problem of overflow from the bait well though.

I am going to find a stand pipe drain that will simply replace the drain plug and allow for faster draining to see if it will keep up then and not overflow.

I think in rougher water, or even boat wake, the boat bouncing in the water allows a "pocket" of air into the EZ Pickup.

Thoughts?


----------



## panhandlekelly

Techguy802 said:


> I haven't seen one on here yet. For me at least if I leave it on and not let it cycle on auto it seems to hold prime. That presents the problem of overflow from the bait well though.
> 
> I am going to find a stand pipe drain that will simply replace the drain plug and allow for faster draining to see if it will keep up then and not overflow.
> 
> I think in rougher water, or even boat wake, the boat bouncing in the water allows a "pocket" of air into the EZ Pickup.
> 
> Thoughts?


Thanks, I am trying to find a solution also.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*Baitwell Angst*

Hello everyone,

I'm in the same boat (how literal of a segue way can you get ) as the rest of you Pro !6/17 owner's on this issue.

My skiff is in the BPS/TM service center for a trailer issue, but on my last fishing outing the bait well would not prime and self start. The service managers solution(s) was to, A) remove the pump to release the air lock inside and/or B) back down reverse until that motion primes the pump! To this I say BS!

I love and bought the InV hull for all it's great attributes, but I am feeling that the collective you and me are putting in way too much energy reverse engineering this major component on this skiff. To me, Mako has been building quality boats for a long time with bait wells that work, and that their R&D and QC let this get by even on their entry level skiff for retail sales is ...well....I think you get my feelings on this issue.:headknock

OK, enough of that negative [email protected], back to the creative mind area! My boat chair thought for a solution is to insert some kind of 90 degree barbed sprinkler/plumbing fitting into the inlet orifice so as to keep the intake below water level within the EZ cover. I'm picking up the Skiff tomorrow from BP/TM to trailer home for some beta testing on this thought. Cheers and Tight Lines!


----------



## OldManOwen

I bought the "Leftover" 2012 model and the bait well would not work for me even once. Today I installed the "EZ Pump/Cover" and a horizontal Johnson pump that Bass Pro just gave me because they had no idea what to do with it. I will test tomorrow and report back if this helps.
One thing I also noticed, I filled up my bait well with a 5 gallon bucket and it seems to drain VERY slow from the standpipe drain system my 2012 has. I noticed what appears to be a redesigned drain on the 2013 that does away with the standpipe. I don't see any way that my bait well could drain fast enough the way it's engineered to keep up with the water coming in from the pump. That's all i need is an on board waterfall coming from the bait well. Oh well more tests to come tomorrow! This feature is critical for me because here in TN we down-line with Alewife 90% of the time and I refuse to use my bait well as dry storage!!

Nathan M Owen
SSGT USMC RET

Katie Couric while interviewing a Marine Sniper, asked:
"What do you feel when you shoot a terrorist?"
The Marine shrugged and replied: "Recoil."


----------



## Txredfish

My live bait well is similiar to yours. It uses the over flow stand up pvc pipe. I had 2 problems. Problem 1- the live well would overflow past the top because the overflow pvc pipe would not drain fast enough. When I takeoff to another spot, water would come out into the boat. Problem 2 - Sometimes in rough water, the pvc overflow would come out and I would lose all my water and the bait would die. 
I solved both problems by removing the pvc overflow and plugging with a normal drain plug which I use to drain water at the end of the day. Then I replaced the system with one of those double bubble which I run off a 12V battery which I continue to run all day. I use the regular pump and switch at the beginning of day just to put enough water into livewell for keeping the bait alive. 
I then use a separate switch to run the double bubbles to generate the bubbles through out the day. Problem solved, no more water overflow and no more dead bait. I did one more thing that helped. I drilled a 1" hole near the top of the live well where I attached a hose to an outside drain in order for water to drain in case too much water gets into the live well.


----------



## OldManOwen

Winters97gt said:


> I wish the boat was rated a little higher hp wise. I'd really like to stick an Etec 90 on the back of mine, I think the added 80 pounds in the rear would be offset by the extra power during a shallow holeshot.


HAHA I have the 40 HP on mine, I would have liked the 60 for sure but I could not pass up the price. On flat water I think it might almost be scary with a 90 Etec, but man if it was rated for it what a ride it would be!

Nathan M Owen
SSGT USMC RET

Katie Couric while interviewing a Marine Sniper, asked:
"What do you feel when you shoot a terrorist?"
The Marine shrugged and replied: "Recoil."


----------



## charliel2

*Baitwell*

Anyone try a different brand pump? Maybe the BPS factory one just doesn't cut it.


----------



## Jonc

*Welcome flyitall*

Nice to see at least one other fly fisherman on this thread! You'll love your new boat for fly fishing and here's a tip for rod stowage.. If you go back 20 pages or so you'll see I included a pic of the SeaSucker rod holders which work really good for fly rods and you can adjust where you stick them to accommodate various rod lengths.

The heaviest rod I use up here is a 8' 6 weight but you'll have plenty of room for heavier tackle with the tip under the bow. I've attempted to modify the console rod holders for fly rods but determined I prefer the sea suckers much better as they're stowed out of the way of your fly line. Have fun with the new vessel!

Jonc


----------



## joebucko

Hey Jonc, could you post a picture or two of the SeaSucker rod holders at work in your boat. Thanks


----------



## FlyItAll

*Fly Rod Storage*

Hi Jonc, I haven't decided what to use yet. There is plenty of room in the cockpit for 9 footers. I saw the sea suckers and also the foam ones which were discussed and I am considering the ones made out of white plastic which hard mount to the side. I would have to drill thru the inner liner for anything other than the sea sucker and I'm always reluctant to do that.


----------



## DCAVA

This is Dan Cavazos from the lower rio grande valley, Texas. Harlingen to be exact. I picked up a mako 17' pro skiff last month @ our local bass pro. My family and I have enjoyed it 100%. It is a great rig for the lower laguna madre, where we fish from Arroyo City north to Mansfield and south to South Padre Island. We have enjoyed great sucess with some monster trout 1-28"hog my wife caught, a 27" and a couple of 25"ers as well as some big redfish. This rig gets me to the spots "where the big boys play" and does it with unbelievable fuel efficiency. It's all we need for Sunday fishing adventures in our great bay system!! I will post some pic's of our stringers when I can figure out how to attach them. Good fishing fellas!!


----------



## Jonc

*Sea Suckers*

I totally get it Flyitall and I also looked at permanent gunwale rod holders but decided I liked the portability of the sea suckers better. I'll snap some pictures this weekend as the boats at my lake place and will post them Monday.

The nice thing about the sea suckers is they'll accommodate items larger than rods such as stick it anchor pins and push poles. The versatility allows me to load them with whatever I need for the day or remove them completely when not needed. I 'll also post a few pics of other mods I've done to accommodate fly fishing.

Jonc


----------



## charliel2

*Dcava*

Congrats and welcome DCAVA.


----------



## DCAVA

Thanks!
Dan cavazos iii


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*Some Pics of Baitwell Pickup Mod*

Some pics for interested parties. pic 1 is from the factory, pic 2 is my hacksawing the nipple smooth and pic 3 is a brass elbo fitting that i hope will help the self priming issue, TBD. The EZ cover went back on without a clearance issue.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*Some Pics of Sonar Rigging*

so far the self adhesive squares are holding up


----------



## OldManOwen

FlatsCatFL,
Please let us know if the elbow helps! My 2012 would not prime or pump water no matter what I did the first trip out. I added the EZ-Pump thing and installed a Horizontal Johnson pump that Bass Pro just gave me because they didn't want to deal with it. It will prime and pump now if I reverse for about 20 feet but as soon as I move the boat it will loose prime and not work again until I reverse. Very frustrating!


Nathan M Owen
SSGT USMC RET

Katie Couric while interviewing a Marine Sniper, asked:
"What do you feel when you shoot a terrorist?"
The Marine shrugged and replied: "Recoil."


----------



## charliel2

*FlatsCat*

Thermostat cover for Evinrude/Johnson V6?


----------



## eyesneers

*pump issue*



OldManOwen said:


> FlatsCatFL,
> Please let us know if the elbow helps! My 2012 would not prime or pump water no matter what I did the first trip out. I added the EZ-Pump thing and installed a Horizontal Johnson pump that Bass Pro just gave me because they didn't want to deal with it. It will prime and pump now if I reverse for about 20 feet but as soon as I move the boat it will loose prime and not work again until I reverse. Very frustrating!
> 
> Nathan M Owen
> SSGT USMC RET
> 
> Katie Couric while interviewing a Marine Sniper, asked:
> "What do you feel when you shoot a terrorist?"
> The Marine shrugged and replied: "Recoil."


 I have been thru this with my 2012 model and had BPS put a new pump and the ezflow on and it seems to have helped it. My tip of the day- if you are on the water and can't get it to work you can blow back thru the tube from the live-well and it fixes it every time(having a teenager on board who can get down there to blow back thru really helps:smile. I was thinking of cutting a water-hose section that would fit over the valve and carrying it in the boat so I could blow back without getting my head in there. Crude yet effective!


----------



## DCAVA

The 2013' model I bought seems to work ok, although live shrimp seem to outlast live shiner in the livewell. when there is rough chop on the bay the water spills out of the livewell at high speeds when I have it set on "auto" mode. I have begun to turn it off while on the drift and fire it up every 15-20 minutes to keep the bait alive. Do you guys have this same problem with yours? And does anyone know how these livewells are supposed to work? Manual mode or auto? Don't think I should have to turn it on and off periodaically to function properly?


----------



## Damcc

eyesneers said:


> I have been thru this with my 2012 model and had BPS put a new pump and the ezflow on and it seems to have helped it. My tip of the day- if you are on the water and can't get it to work you can blow back thru the tube from the live-well and it fixes it every time(having a teenager on board who can get down there to blow back thru really helps:smile. I was thinking of cutting a water-hose section that would fit over the valve and carrying it in the boat so I could blow back without getting my head in there. Crude yet effective!


I do this method fast and simple just get off it soon as you here the pump growl, and oh yeah make sure no other boats are watching you give yours special attention


----------



## frankcr

We have the tiller version of the 17 with a 30 HP motor and have not found much about it on the web. It cruises at 20 - 23 MPH which is fine for our purposes. 

Finding this site is a gold mine.

We bought this version for the space it provides, as we will use it for shrimping with a cast net and general salt water fishing. I made boards which clamp across the seats to hold several vertical rod holders, a frame for mounting the transom mounted trolling motor, navigation lights, and mounted a Bimini top. We have folding chairs from a large boat which we sit in the boat for times you just want to take it easy. We put a Tiny Tach on the motor which works like a charm and mounted a fish finder which is removable from the seat. I have made a portable bilge pump for times when we would leave the boat tied up at a dock. You can modify this hull to your hearts content.

It runs great in nasty river chop and gets great gas mileage. We had to cancel a planned trip to the Keys where we planned to do some patch reef fishing and the fishing here will explode before we can use the boat this season.

Big problem though. Starting in April my back went out which curtailed walking and we have to wait to have it operated on until September. The result is that we have not had the boat in the water since last year and have cabin fever something awful.

This is our first skiff type boat as all the others were vee bottoms from 12 to 21 feet. I was a little concerned about the design, but it is very nice and smoother riding that the flat bottom boats which are so common in this area. My only concern is stuffing the bow in large waves.


----------



## panhandlekelly

Damcc said:


> I do this method fast and simple just get off it soon as you here the pump growl, and oh yeah make sure no other boats are watching you give yours special attention


I just got off the phone with Johnson Pumps.
Not a lot of help, but said to be sure the pump is below the water level at all times. I asked about the pump being attached to the transom at such an angle causing the discharge hose to rise up before heading down into the passage way to the console. He also said that it would be ok to roll the pump over side ways, about 90 deg, to lower the bend in the discharge hose. I guess I will try that.


----------



## DCAVA

Factory installed equipment, such as the livewell system should work flawlessly off the showroom floor in a perfect world. Don't know whether to take my rig to Bass Pro to have it checked for flaws in the system? It seems like alot of folks are having issues w/this livewell setup!!


----------



## rgourley11

DCAVA said:


> The 2013' model I bought seems to work ok, although live shrimp seem to outlast live shiner in the livewell. when there is rough chop on the bay the water spills out of the livewell at high speeds when I have it set on "auto" mode. I have begun to turn it off while on the drift and fire it up every 15-20 minutes to keep the bait alive. Do you guys have this same problem with yours? And does anyone know how these livewells are supposed to work? Manual mode or auto? Don't think I should have to turn it on and off periodaically to function properly?


Got mine to work out good. Run in auto but turn down the flow on the injection head. Installed a bigger screen over the overflow and a gasket over the top of the one installed. Have had no problem with water overflow. I posted some pics on page 24.


----------



## DCAVA

Thanks for the info, saw the pics. I'll try that. Other than this issue, I love the boat!!


----------



## charliel2

*Livewell*

And raise the backrest so the livewell/seat will slide in easier.


----------



## DCAVA

Will do, thanks for yout input.


----------



## frankcr

A centrifugal pump requires that the inlet be flooded before it will prime. If the impeller is above the waterline, it will not develop a vacuum to draw water into the casing. 

If what is known as a foot valve or check valve is installed in the inlet pipe, it will pump out that liquid and cause a small vacuum on the inlet side, but just a small amount of air will break that vacuum. Once on plane, you need some kind of water pickup to furnish water to the pump if the inlet is above the water line.

Yes, there is a hydraulic problem with installation of the pumps, as only a positive displacement pump would work under those conditions. There is nothing the Bass Pro guys can do unless they sell some sort of pickup. It is purely a hydraulic problem.


----------



## OldManOwen

In other words it was designed wrong from the start, and no amount of fiddling with the centrifugal pump is going to fix it? 
With that being said, where does one find a pump (like a wash-down pump) that WILL draw water from above the waterline where our pumps are located? I see many fairly expensive wash-down pumps, but they all seem to be in the 5 Amp range, not sure how long I could run that without having to run the outboard to keep the battery fresh. One other thing I noticed about the "wash-down" style pumps is that they are only rated at continuous duty if allowed to run wide open and if that's the case the pump will constantly be overflowing the bait-well. Am I way off track? A link to a pump that will actually run continuous and is designed to pull water from ABOVE waterline would be awesome! :cheers:


Nathan M Owen
SSGT USMC RET

Katie Couric while interviewing a Marine Sniper, asked:
"What do you feel when you shoot a terrorist?"
The Marine shrugged and replied: "Recoil."


----------



## DCAVA

Good info, I guess I"ll run at full throttle to get to the "spots" quiclky while on plane!! It's kind of a pain having to switch the sucker on and off while drift fishing though. The last couple of trips I have caught shiner and iced em' down and anchored at spots and have had great success!! Big fish like big baits, wait for th rodtips to bend and "drink water. Mexican style...


----------



## frankcr

I read this whole thread before joining, and there are a lot of posts referring to the bait tank pump. That is why I posted above, as a person would naturally think that if the factory provided a pump for an application, it should work. You would believe that the manufacturer would at least explain the situation.

As the water pick up is through the transom, it is pulling air when the boat is on plane.

A cure for filling the tanks while running would be as simple as an elbow with the open end facing the direction of travel. That is a lot simpler in theory than in practice and would pick up more than just clean water. A clamshell mounted in the bottom of the hull would possibly suffice, but there is no practical way to mount such a beast.

As these boat are meant to run in shallow water, it would be close to impossible to mount the pumps low enough to assure them being primed when underway. A deep V hull would allow a pump and pickup to perform well, but that is a different design entirely and would not be suitable for our purposes.

Hate to be the messenger on this subject, but after reading the posts, I hate to see people have their expectations not met. About everything else with these boats is acceptable to excellent.


----------



## DCAVA

I'm sure most boats that are used for shallow running purposes have the same issues with their livewell setups; however, most live wells I have seen are in the rear of boat in small compartments on right/left side of outboard. I assume the design of the Mako Pro Skiff, with it's shallow running capabilities inhibits proper function of the livewell at fot.


----------



## OldManOwen

frankcr,
I agree with you 100%, the pump is designed to be mounted below the waterline and that just isn't possible in this boat. In my case my wife and I bought the boat primarily to fish for Striper's here on Norris Lake in TN and that is done almost exclusively with Alewife on a down-line. That makes the bait-well very important to us. We knew the bait-well had design flaws when we bought the boat so I can't complain. To be honest I would be 100% satisfied if the pump only worked while drifting, our longest run might be 10 minutes. The annoying thing is that once on plane or even if a big wake rolls by it looses prime and aside from assuming the position on my knee's there is no way to re-establish a prime. Starting the little Merc and reversing at half throttle while 20' over the top of a school of fish is not an option. I just need to find a pump that will self prime like I mentioned in my previous post. Aside from the one issue with the bait-well we LOVE the boat. It's easy to clean, we can beach it almost anywhere on the lake if we want to cool off or have lunch on the shore and we got it for what I think was a ridiculous price. Very cool little boat for those who just want a basic little fishing platform and you can even watch your wife tan on the front casting platform while keeping an eye on the sonar! 

Nathan M Owen
SSGT USMC RET

Katie Couric while interviewing a Marine Sniper, asked:
"What do you feel when you shoot a terrorist?"
The Marine shrugged and replied: "Recoil."


----------



## frankcr

If you want to know what I would do in your situation which is inexpensive and would save the bait, I will tell you.

Pick up the lowest flow rated 12 v bilge pump and make a wire long enough to reach a female plug wired to your battery or put battery clips on the end of the wire. I would make sure you put an inline fuse in the line. You can actually purchase a bait well setup which has a pvc outflow pipe which could run back to the pump. Make up a simple board with the pump mounted on it which could be clamped to the gunnel and put the pump overboard when drifting or going trolling speed. The outlet on the bait well should get rid of excess water.

We net shrimp and put them in a bucket with a battery powered aerator which works well except that we have to change part of the water from time to time to keep the water temperature fairly constant. By having a piped up live well, you could easilly rig something like described which would moderate the water temperature in the well.

Sounds like fun fishing. Good luck.


----------



## panhandlekelly

DCAVA said:


> The 2013' model I bought seems to work ok, although live shrimp seem to outlast live shiner in the livewell. when there is rough chop on the bay the water spills out of the livewell at high speeds when I have it set on "auto" mode. I have begun to turn it off while on the drift and fire it up every 15-20 minutes to keep the bait alive. Do you guys have this same problem with yours? And does anyone know how these livewells are supposed to work? Manual mode or auto? Don't think I should have to turn it on and off periodaically to function properly?


Can you post a pic of your pump set up?


----------



## DCAVA

will shoot a pic when I get home, I'm at thecar dealership, my second home...


----------



## MakoSkiff

did any of the guys here with the prop blowing out/ loosing bite problems ever get it resolved? and what did they do to it, prop, lower engine, etc?
maybe a jackplate would help, i've also thought maybe the bigfoot gearcase like some boston whalers use, it has a bigger cavitation plate and larger diameter prop. as long as the pitch is correct.


----------



## frankcr

We have the Tiller model with a 30HP. The 9.75 x 9.5" pitch Merc prop holds pretty well but a Michigan Wheel 10 1/2 x 10" catches air badly. The right prop should help your condition on the larger motor, so hopefully someone can help you. Blade design makes a bigger difference that we would have thought.

The MW does give great MPG results though believe it or not with its wide blade design vs the narrower Merc design.


----------



## Damcc

MakoSkiff said:


> did any of the guys here with the prop blowing out/ loosing bite problems ever get it resolved? and what did they do to it, prop, lower engine, etc?
> maybe a jackplate would help, i've also thought maybe the bigfoot gearcase like some boston whalers use, it has a bigger cavitation plate and larger diameter prop. as long as the pitch is correct.


I have also thought of putting the Bigfoot gear case, right now mine has the vengeance 13p I think it's a 10.5 diameter with a hydrofoil. The hydrofoil helped allot though it still does it from time to time. My plan is to take the prop to the shop this month and have a cup added to it. Research is coming up with these things having a flat rake and being the 13 is slightly underproped for me I think the cup should drop my rpms a few hundred and make it grab harder in ventilation and provide more bow lift so it can be trimmed out without blowout. Any other ideas would be helpful ?? Also has anyone had issues with the fuel line having an air leak? It seams that the fuel filter bowl never stays full even if I manually purge the air out.


----------



## joebucko

DAMCC
I have the 17skiff/60hp running a standard 10 3/8" x 13P aluminum mercury prop. 34mph top end @ 6000rpm. I get very good on plane with little bow rise. I may have a touch of either prop slip or ventilation around 4200rpm coming out of the hole but I need to pay a little more attention to it to see if trimming up coming out of the hole helps/eliminates it.

I am not sure what the Big Foot lower end would do for us. The gearing is lower but the housing is also larger creating more drag. I know the Mako guys tested a bunch of different engines and hole settings(engine height). That is why 60HP is the max engine since the weight of the 75HP made it sit too low in the stern.

One thing I am going to check the next time I have a friend fish with me is the position of the Anti-cavitation plate when the boat is at top end speed. I have added a lot of weight to my boat and am wondering if the anti-cavitation plate is actually above the waterline when running flat out. If not I may need to raise my engine a bit.

Be sure and let us know how the boat responds if you have your propeller cupped.


----------



## DCAVA

*prop blowout*

I haven't noticed much prop blowuot on my 2013' pro skiff 17' w/60hp merc. I have noticed that upon turning at 5200-5300 rpm into the intracoastal the rpms will drop and I loose a liitle bit of steam. A small trim adjustment usuall cures it quickly though. may be since chop directon/wind direction changes when I make the turn.


----------



## DCAVA

*pictures of pumps*



panhandlekelly said:


> Can you post a pic of your pump set up?


here are pics of the outer pump and the inner pumps;


----------



## Damcc

I've been thinking it may be to low as well Im curious what you come up with on the plates depth. I may do the same test tomorrow (seems like a good enough excuse to get the boat wet) on a further note I got a little ballzy and went 1/2 mile offshore in it. Seas 2-3 ft. the little thing did well not that I'm going to steal the deep sea trips from the big mako but imagining a 30 mile trip on 15 gals of fuel instead of 200 gallons is a dream lol those twin 200 yammis love they're mixed drinks.


----------



## frankcr

I see the question of whether the switch should be set to auto or on when you use the bait pump. Johnson sells an off-on-auto switch which is used when a float switch is used on the pump. There are only + & - wires to the pump, so the float switch has to be wired to the + side.

Is there a means to run the pump in automatic mode where it shuts off or on controlled by a timer or level switch on the boats? If not, on and auto positions both energize the pump motor.

The nice picture of the inside of the transom just shows two wires connected to each pump of course. How is the switch wired?


----------



## DCAVA

There is a auto/manual switch on the consloe; don't know how the pumps are wired, I haven't looked at them closely. One of my sons took the pics and emailed em' to me. The 1st time I used the livewell the auto function worked fine, the second time water started spilling out of the baitwell. That's when I started manually turning it on/off every 10-15mins. I may need to adjust the inner valve? I'll mess w/it tomorrow on the water.


----------



## frankcr

Friend, when you get a chance, please look at how that switch is wired. They may have some sort of level control or timer wired in. If not, you could install a float switch to set the maximum level of water in the bait well which would help with water slopping out while underway.

I rigged a bilge pump for my boat with the Johnson pump with attached electronic float switch, but it has not been in the water to try it. If those things work as advertised, you might find that float switch helpful.

Your son did a good job with his pictures by the way.


----------



## DCAVA

I will look at the wiring; I think the injection head on the inner part of the livewell is adjusted for too much water flow. There has to be a kill switch that activates once the well is to a certain water level. I'm not too mechanically inclined, thats why I bought a brand new boat. Don't have time for much w/my profession!! I appreciate your input and will try to figure out how the darn thing works optimally. Hopefully it don't rain tomorrow so I can get the boat out in the bay!!! Want to go HOOK EM' UP!!!


----------



## frankcr

I may have something for you. Someone on another site reports that the pump runs one minute every three minutes when on auto. If that is the case, the auto function is on a timer.

Of course, he also reports the pump getting air locked after running on plane. His BP guys gave him a larger pump in hopes it would solve the problem. Cannot blame them, but it is the old hit it with a larger hammer solution which seldom works 

They need to put some sort of scoop on the inlet to furnish water while running at speed.

Don't get too upset about the situation. You should have seen some of the pump start-ups done by professional operators in plants I have seen. They could ruin a mechanical seal in a matter of minutes with air in the casing. The other extreme was to blow up the casings on pumps by running them with the discharge valves closed. Shrapnel went through 3/8" wall pipe above one of the pumps  And people always questioned me when I stood away from the equipment on new equipment start-ups.


----------



## DCAVA

My hypothesis with all the info gathered is no prime after planing to get to the spot. I need to figure out how to get the pump purged/primed once on drift.


----------



## panhandlekelly

DCAVA said:


> here are pics of the outer pump and the inner pumps;
> View attachment 647290
> 
> 
> View attachment 647298


Thank you, looks just like mine. Not sure why I have a problem with air lock.


----------



## charliel2

*Livewell*

Just an idea...

Would a one-way check valve on the intake help? Between pump and EZ pickup on stern? Theoretically, this should hold water in the line and avoid the airlock.

Would you need to be able to remove the water from the line at the end of the day? A "check valve release".

Other flats boat manufacturers must have this problem too. Surely a manufacturer has found a way to make it happen. May just need to duplicate that...no need to reinvent the wheel.

On a positive note, my airlock was cleared easily by blowing into the injector in the livewell as mentioned by a fellow forum member. Just don't want to and shouldn't have to do it every trip!


----------



## Deepsouthdiver

First a huge thanks to all of you for starting this thread. After reading it through I finally decided on a Mako Pro 17. I picked it up in Harlingen yesterday and ran out of Port Mansfied in the afternoon. I couldn't be happier with my purchase. 
The mods I have are a Bimini which I think will be invaluable and a Garmin 547xs which is worth every penny. I had BPS install both and requested they not mount the transducer. They did anyway and screwed it to the transom. I think they placed it too high as anything over 7-8 kts and I lose depth info and screen goes to pieces. I will take photos when the rain stops. Any sugestions on how to get it right would be much appreciated!!
Again Thank you all for the ideas and reviews!


----------



## DCAVA

*Mako pro skiff*

Congrats on ur prchase!! I'm glad another valleyite is on the forum/thread. I didn't fish today cause of the unpredictability of the rain. Instead i took my 4 boys back to school shopping. I bought quite a bit of columbia/work gear also, so i had fun. Anyhow, welcome aboard and hope to see u out on the laguna; i ofter tread north in search of the "big boys". I'll be on the water tuesday on my day off!! Good luck and regards!


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*other site*



frankcr said:


> I may have something for you. Someone on another site reports that the pump runs one minute every three minutes when on auto. If that is the case, the auto function is on a timer.
> 
> Of course, he also reports the pump getting air locked after running on plane. His BP guys gave him a larger pump in hopes it would solve the problem. Cannot blame them, but it is the old hit it with a larger hammer solution which seldom works
> 
> They need to put some sort of scoop on the inlet to furnish water while running at speed.
> 
> Don't get too upset about the situation. You should have seen some of the pump start-ups done by professional operators in plants I have seen. They could ruin a mechanical seal in a matter of minutes with air in the casing. The other extreme was to blow up the casings on pumps by running them with the discharge valves closed. Shrapnel went through 3/8" wall pipe above one of the pumps  And people always questioned me when I stood away from the equipment on new equipment start-ups.


FrankCR, what is the other site you mentioned?


----------



## highanddryinco

highanddryinco said:


> Charliel2,
> Same motor position with mine. I too am fighting a problem that I first thought was prop slip. (Still not sure it isn't but I'm baffled) On hole shot, trimmed all the way down, as I approach 3500-4000 I get what would seem to be prop slip or an engine miss, fire, miss, fire situation until I get through about 4500 then everything clears up and runs beautiful. I've been fighting this for a year and it's very annoying. I've had it in, the local Merc (and Tracker) dealer had it on the dyno and assures me everything is checking out perfectly. He hasn't had time to take it to water yet to experience it for himself. The reason for my prop slip skepticism is even coming off plane on a decel, it'll start doing the same thing as I cross that RPM threshold. I'm heading up to WI this weekend and know a Merc Dealer right on the water. I'll see if he has time to plug in and go for a ride with me. I'll let you all know what comes of it.


Well I'm back from vacation. Unfortunately, even mechanics in the Great Lakes get busy this time of year. We never did a chance to take the test drive with the computer plugged in to see if we could identify a miss or blame it on cavitation. I went ahead and took a very boat savvy friend for a test drive and he wasn't 100% sure either. I decided to drop the motor down to the lowest mount position and give it a run. It didn't cure the problem but it did improve it. With that knowledge and the fact that the mechanic here couldn't make it miss on the dyno, I think I'm buying into the cavitation theory. I may futs with it a bit a more or I may just live with it. All in all, I spent a fair amount of time on the water and even got a few fish to boot. The boat's a keeper. :brew:


----------



## Steveomatic

Deepsouthdiver said:


> First a huge thanks to all of you for starting this thread. After reading it through I finally decided on a Mako Pro 17. I picked it up in Harlingen yesterday and ran out of Port Mansfied in the afternoon. I couldn't be happier with my purchase.
> The mods I have are a Bimini which I think will be invaluable and a Garmin 547xs which is worth every penny. I had BPS install both and requested they not mount the transducer. They did anyway and screwed it to the transom. I think they placed it too high as anything over 7-8 kts and I lose depth info and screen goes to pieces. I will take photos when the rain stops. Any sugestions on how to get it right would be much appreciated!!
> Again Thank you all for the ideas and reviews!


Congrats on the purchase! I did basically the same as you but went with a Lowrance and installed my own bimini.

I have the same problem with my BPS-installed Lowrance. I tried adjusting the angle of the transducer and tightening it down but no dice. I plan on lowering it before the next outing. While heading back to the dock today I noticed some random spray shooting up higher than the top of the motor right above the transducer, no similar spray on the other side. For all I know that's normal though. I hope it's just the height and not the positioning since BPS wired it through/screwed mine into the transom as well...


----------



## FlyItAll

*First full break in run*

Finally got out to break in the engine and do a proper checkout of the boat. Put 6 hours on the engine and finally got it up to full speed for a short bit. I was very impressed with the top end and the virtually instant planing. I was turning 6000 at WOT with the stock aluminum prop. I discovered a minor leak under the console and noticed the live well drains more slowly than the pump can put water in. So if the pump was on continuous it would overflow. Like someone else mentioned, you can screw in the fill nozzle to slow down the water flow. I don't use a live well anyway so I pulled a wire off the switch to disable the pump. I plan to add insulation around the outside of the live well tank (working thru the console opening) and make it an ice chest.
When I got home I opened the drain between the liner and the hull and had some (1/2 gall.) water come out when there should have been none, so I went hunting for the leaks.
I found the leak under the live well to be right at the drain. I tightened the hose clamp, but couldn't get a wrench on the fitting nut. I caulked the fitting on the inside of the live well with 5200. Will test for further leaks tomorrow. 
Also, on my boat, none of the screws thru the floor in the console were caulked so I did those with 5200.
I also noticed that the EZ pickup cover 4 screws penetrate the transom and they were not caulked either.
Going to the lake tomorrow to see if I got the leaks fixed.
After talking to the BPS guys at my AZ store, I decided I would rather do my own installations and any repairs if possible. 
I have installed my 8' Bimini and the ladder that JoeBucko used. I couldn't find any aluminum material so I mounted straight to the transom with #14 x 1" screws caulked with 5200. I think I like JoeBucko's method better. Presently working on mounting my Riptide iPilot.

One question for Flatscat-I saw your post about the brake fittings getting sheared off by the trailer rail. I have the same upgraded trailer and noticed mine are not leaking yet, but they have bumped and are slightly bent. Do you know how they fixed yours?

Having a great time with the boat and love the hull design, even fixing these rigging problems has been fine so far. The information exchange on this forum has been excellent!
Tight lines!


----------



## frankcr

FlatsCatFL, sorry but I cannot recall where I saw that. 

I have noticed that people are installing the E-Z pickup on the suction side of the pump. Maybe they would work with the pump actually pumping, but it would seem it would prevent priming of the pump by increasing the air pocket on the inlet side every time the system was drained.

Without the E-Z attachment, some report reversing the boat or quickly coming off plane will sometimes flood the inlet enough to prime the pump and allow it to pump when the boat settles in the water. The E-Z would minimize any chance of forcing water into the inlet.

There are self priming pumps in industry, but a bait pump is not self priming. Search for self priming pumps on the net and you should see the principle of operation.

Air flows through an orifice approximately 88 times easier than water, so any vent line on the suction will prevent flooding the suction.


----------



## highanddryinco

*Console Cover*

If any of you Pro-Skiff owners have the Mako console tarp cover that came with the boat and know that you're likely never going to use it...please drop me a PM. I'd be interested in purchasing one or two for spares. In the year and a half since new, I've accumulated about 13,000 road miles on mine and it may have one more CO-FL-CO trip in it before it completely falls apart. 
Thanks.


----------



## LagunaMadreFishing

*Just got my boat!*

I got my 17', 60HP skiff last weekend. My son and I broke it in last weekend at the Arroyo (Rio Hondo) and quickly noticed the live well problems. We weren't fishing, so didn't turn on the live well pump, but as we started hitting faster speeds, we noticed the live well overflowing. Seems that the EZ pickup is low enough that it picks up water when we going fast. It actually picks up ALOT of water, so that even with both drains open, it overflows. We had to shut off the valve in live well.

So this weekend was our first fishing trip. Took my son and daughter out to the Lower Laguna Madre and hit South Bay first. Tide was high, but we couldn't drift (no wind). We tried top water lures, then live shrimp with the extremely slow drift, but no luck. We saw many boats anchored near the channel entering South Bay, so we did the same. We only caught one gray snapper after about an hour of trying shrimp and cut bait.

We decided to cruise over to Mexiquita Flats next, but once again, lack of drift didnâ€™t help. We anchored and tried cut bait. After about another hour, my daughter caught a speck. We then decided to cruise over to the old causeway, and on our way we hit bottom. I think it was about a foot and half of water. It was a sandbar at the end of the old causeway. I will take something to measure the depth better so I can find out how shallow I can run. We fished close to that spot for a while and I noticed a couple of other boats hit bottom as well.

During this trip, the live well was a problem. We have to remember to close the valve before we move or it will overflow! Itâ€™s quite frustrating! I have two trips planned for this weekend, so will try to close the valve to limit the water being pumped into the live well. If that doesnâ€™t work, I will try to add a second pump that just recycles the existing water in the well. This way, I can use the current pump to fill the well, and the second pump to keep bait alive. That will have to be my first mod because this problem needs to be resolved! After that, I am looking to add a Bimini top (for the wife) and then some additional rod holders.


----------



## DCAVA

Congrats to you as well. What I have done with shallow runs is completely stop the boat before attempting to enter super shallows, I have just raised the motor high enough so that water is still circulating/shooting out the spout and putted in slowly. I have gotten in to areas at a little less than a foot of water, carefully, your skeg will drag, but thats what it's there for. And yes, the livewell issue is a pain. I will try mine out again tomorrow and see if I can find a good solution to post 4 u guys. I'm hitting the lagoon tomorrow!! Woohoo!! also, glad to see another valley boy on this forum/thread, hope to see u on the water some day!!


----------



## charliel2

*New Boats*

Congrats all on the new boats. Good boat, good price, minor nuisances. I had my local BPS install a Hummingbird 597ci this morning. Looks like a clean install. Probably won't get out to use it though till Saturday.

On another note! How long does it take to get trailer tags and boat registration? Almost a month now since purchase...


----------



## jkalin1

Took delivery of my pro skiff 17 cc last Thursday! Love it so far! Looking to get a bimini, but the one recommended here is sold out (



). Any other recommendations for a bimini?

For those that installed speakers, did you connect the audio receiver to the main power load or aux? Would it be possible to post some pics of the connections?


----------



## OldManOwen

jkalin1 said:


> Took delivery of my pro skiff 17 cc last Thursday! Love it so far! Looking to get a bimini, but the one recommended here is sold out (http://www.amazon.com/Grey-Bimini-Cover-Includes-Hardware/dp/B0051WVPB0/ref=cm_cr_pr_pb_t). Any other recommendations for a bimini?
> 
> For those that installed speakers, did you connect the audio receiver to the main power load or aux? Would it be possible to post some pics of the connections?


Hey I got my Carver cover off eBay by recommendation of another 2Cooler in the Pro Skiff Mods thread. The sellers eBay name is ARTICALS, and Betty is who I dealt with. They sell the Carver Bimini's made with Sunbrella and that's what i'm getting next with the Stainless hardware. Tired of being rained on every afternoon here in TN! Grat's on the new boat! :cheers:

Nathan M Owen
SSGT USMC RET

Katie Couric while interviewing a Marine Sniper, asked:
"What do you feel when you shoot a terrorist?"
The Marine shrugged and replied: "Recoil."


----------



## frankcr

I replaced the Sunbrella with white vinyl on my last boat. It reflects heat and is really waterproof whereas the Sunbrella weeped water and the red color was hot as blazes. Had the nautical blue on another boat and it too was hot. Shoot for a light color. 

By the way, like the Marine's reply to Couric.


----------



## DCAVA

I was researching those bimini tops, the wife would like that. Don't know how well they would hold up when the wind picks up to 15-20mph? Which it does quite often in summer months down here in south texas. I don't want to install something and it breaks/rips! Need feedback before moving forward on a decision. Thanks.


----------



## KeithD.

*Bimini Info*

I got mine from Kapsco moto where some of the guys got theirs. It should arrive tomorrow and the last time I looked they were all in stock. Very reasonably priced as well.


----------



## frankcr

Try Outer Banks in North Carolina who have a site on line. I have purchased several biminis from them over the years and was always satisfied with the price. Seems they might ship free if I remember right.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*Upgrade Trailer Brake Design*

"One question for Flatscat-I saw your post about the brake fittings getting sheared off by the trailer rail. I have the same upgraded trailer and noticed mine are not leaking yet, but they have bumped and are slightly bent. Do you know how they fixed yours?"

FlyItAll - My rig is still at BP/TM's shop and the brake repair is almost done. The solution the local rigging tech used was to angle the new brake fittings downwards. They also created a horse shoe loop from the fittings to the cross axle providing more unobstructed travel. I'll take a pic for you when I get it home, hopefully by weeks end. Cheers!


----------



## FlyItAll

*Boarding Ladder*

I just returned from a lake trip to checkout my repairs and modifications. I still had some water coming out of the drain between the inner and outer hulls and this should be bone dry. There must be an entry point poorly caulked that I haven't found, any suggestions?
Also, I tried out my new SS ladder with the extension steps....there were 2 of us that tried it and we both got back on board, but it wasn't pretty! The extension steps swing back under the boat and make it nearly impossible to climb up. I put the round SS bar at the top, since that places the steps lower, but I have to do something different. I may remove mine from the transom and turn it over. Have any of you tried something else?


----------



## joebucko

FlyItAll,
When I first got my boat I was bothered by water draining from the boat every time I put it back on the trailer and removed the plug. Never much but probably up to a gallon on a bad day. I just couldn't figure it out. I went to the extreme of crawling under the boat to check the hull for holes, cracks etc but found nothing. It turned out to be the actual drain plug and O'ring combination. I was hand tightening it before launch and was simply not getting it tight enough. Now when I take the boat out and remove the plug I may get a few drops.


----------



## Winters97gt

I'm about done with this boat. I'm now taking on water, and have not found a reason for it while inspecting it thoroughly. Just about everything on the boat has rusted/broke on it.

I've owned the boat for about 70-80 days, and have fished it in 30-40 days. About 10 days in Galveston's East Bay, and the rest out of SPI. It just has proven to not be able to take the beating of everyday fishing in moderate conditions that other similar size boats can. I absolutely love many aspects of it, but growing up on Texas built boats, I'm going to look elsewhere. It's a good lake, weekend warrior calm/slight chop bay boat, but not up to the standards of day after day abuse of the Texas coast.


----------



## frankcr

Winters, sorry to hear about your problems. The problems you had with the motor should not have happened, but are you running the boat in waters is was not designed for? It is not an open water design where Vee bottom, self bailing boats reign. Do you see similar size Carolina Skiffs in use where you boat?

When you say you are taking on water, could it be through the hull drain or do you think the boat has hull damage from wave action?

I hope you find a craft suitable for your fishing conditions.


----------



## panhandlekelly

Winters97gt said:


> I'm about done with this boat. I'm now taking on water, and have not found a reason for it while inspecting it thoroughly. Just about everything on the boat has rusted/broke on it.
> 
> I've owned the boat for about 70-80 days, and have fished it in 30-40 days. About 10 days in Galveston's East Bay, and the rest out of SPI. It just has proven to not be able to take the beating of everyday fishing in moderate conditions that other similar size boats can. I absolutely love many aspects of it, but growing up on Texas built boats, I'm going to look elsewhere. It's a good lake, weekend warrior calm/slight chop bay boat, but not up to the standards of day after day abuse of the Texas coast.


I sure hope this is the exception and not the rule. I love my boat, except the baitwell pump, and believe it is everthing I hoped it would be. 
Sorry to hear of your troubles with yours.


----------



## joebucko

DAMCC and others
I tried to shoot a video of my anti-cavitation plate today to see if was high enough out of the water at WOT. this won't win any awards but I believe it clearly shows that my anti-cav plate is too low in the water. What do you guys think?
Capn JoeBob is my youtube name and this is my very first posted video.


----------



## Damcc

Looks like its too low to me, what hole is your motor on?


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## FlyItAll

*Water in the Hull*

JoeB- Thanks for your response, I never considered that I may not be getting that drain plug tight enough. I have only hand tightened it. I'll put a wrench on it before I go again and let you know how it goes. Have you climbed out of the water yet on your ladder?

Also, I looked at the cavitation plate the last time I was out and it was flush at the top of the water when on plane. I thought it was fine. My wife was driving while I looked back. I was lightly loaded with about 3 gallons of gas, the starting battery, and a small ice chest in back and just a few life jackets and 2 bean bag chairs in front. My motor is mounted thru the second hole from the top which puts about 1" of clearance between top of the transom and the motor bracket.


----------



## frankcr

The aerated water is running over it, but the plate seems to be at the true surface of the water. If you raise it, the aerated water could flow under the cav plate and possibly cause prop blowout.

Good job with the camera.


----------



## charliel2

*A Real Bildge Pump*

Anyone consider cutting a hole in the liner in the low area that the bildge (deck) pump sits in? A big enough hole so that the bildge pump could sit into it...so that the pump actually sits in the area between the deck and hull. At least then you could pump the water out of the entire boat and not just the deck.

If water is getting between the deck and hull on a regualr basis then it seems like it would be better if you could pump it all out while underway.


----------



## joebucko

My engine is in the 2nd hole. I believe all of them come from the factory that way. I am going to try and reset my camera so that is shoots straight down on the anticav plate to see if I can film through all the turbulent water for a little better view. The plate appears to be under water to me although frankcr may be correct that it is just aerated water. Other pictures of anticav plates I have seen show the plate clearly above the water line but our hull design may make that impossible.

Ladder. I have climbed out once just to test it. It was not too graceful and I used the anticav plate on the motor for additional leverage. I added the ladder strictly for emergency use as the original step/grab bar would have been extremely difficult for me. 

Bilge pump: Mako apparently changed their design for the bilge from the earliest boats. My boat is an early model and has only one drain plug in the same position as your lowest hole. My hull liner is actually cut out in that area and any water entering the boat collects in the bilge and can either be pumped out while under way or drained out when on the trailer. I am confident Mako made this change for a reason but it seems to me that not being able to pump water from within the hull is a problem.


----------



## joebucko

I read an earlier post where one owner on this site lowered his motor but I have not seen any posts about raising it. Has anyone raised the motor to the 3rd hole. How about you guys with jackplates. You must be running higher than the 2nd hole. What happened when you made the change?

I have determined that I do not have any noticeable prop slip when coming out of the hole. Nor do I get prop slip in turns. About the only time I notice any change is in very choppy water when occasionally hitting a down swell. I am thinking that due to the weight in my boat I may be sitting slightly lower in the water and raising the motor could bring the anticav plate clearly to the surface.

I suppose I need to ask myself WHY I'd go to the trouble if it is not causing any apparent problems. I am thinking that less drag from the lower unit might translate into more speed but I'd probably get 1-2mph max and very likely begin to experience real prop slip, cavitation or ventilation issues.

If anyone has raised their motor please let me know what happened.


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## charliel2

*Bildge Pic*

JoeB - when you get a chance can you please post a pic of your bildge area?

Thanks!


----------



## frankcr

Our boat is the tiller model, so the partition in the front of the sump molded in the boat is not cutout nor is the area where the cables come out to the steering station. We see only condensation come out of the hull which is a normal thing. Any water coming out of the hull drain would concern me very much.

Models with wheel steering have two areas where water can enter the hull, and sealing them would be a bear. I suspect that is where the water is entering the hull.

You could fashion a dam around the area where the cables come out of the hull which should keep water from entering the hull at that point. How you would seal the area where the cables enter the hull would be a problem. Maybe there is or is not a pipe between each point which would keep water out of the hull. I doubt there is in these boats, and the foam had best be the type which will not absorb water.

Why Mako did not design a sump in the rear of the boat which had the bottom of the hull as its bottom is beyond me, as it would be the normal design in my mind. The bait pump inlet could then be through the bottom instead of through the transom. Altering the boat as furnished would take quite a bit of fiberglass work and would probably not be worth the effort.

I guess the big question is just how much water the hull will hold with the foam filled design. You could fill the area with a hose when the boat is on the trailer and measure just how much water it would hold. If it just held a few gallons, it would be of no consequence.

Our cav plate is slightly above the bottom of the boat in the center and slightly below on each side. We tried a different prop design when we spun the hub of the prop furnished with the boat and ran into big time cavitation problems. If we made any changes, we would lower the motor on the transom. That would cause more drag from the lower unit but would benefit the trim available and minimize cavitation.

As an aside but relevant, on another boat with a 25 HP motor and slightly curved transom bottom, we raised the motor 3/4" and gained exactly 0.5 MPH. When they finally operate on my back so that I can be active, I will lower the motor one hole and check the results. I expect the trim and tilt will be more effective which should add to speed and control. Only way to find out is to try it.

I cannot work on this until after I heal from the operation, but I will post the results on this site. I would be interested to hear if someone does lower their motor and measure the results. Cavitation should go away and the tilt would be more effective. Speed change = ?


----------



## Deepsouthdiver

joebucko said:


> I read an earlier post where one owner on this site lowered his motor but I have not seen any posts about raising it. Has anyone raised the motor to the 3rd hole. How about you guys with jackplates. You must be running higher than the 2nd hole. What happened when you made the change?
> 
> I have determined that I do not have any noticeable prop slip when coming out of the hole. Nor do I get prop slip in turns. About the only time I notice any change is in very choppy water when occasionally hitting a down swell. I am thinking that due to the weight in my boat I may be sitting slightly lower in the water and raising the motor could bring the anticav plate clearly to the surface.
> 
> I suppose I need to ask myself WHY I'd go to the trouble if it is not causing any apparent problems. I am thinking that less drag from the lower unit might translate into more speed but I'd probably get 1-2mph max and very likely begin to experience real prop slip, cavitation or ventilation issues.
> 
> If anyone has raised their motor please let me know what happened.


Joebucko,
I noticed exactly what you have described on my boat Saturday. I hit the second hour of break in and during the 1 minute WOT periods I was experiencing slight cavitation. The bay had a moderate chop. I really think the "inverted vee" is the culprit. The anti-cavitation plate on these engines is pretty small and no doubt made for flat bottom boats. The problem is without the option of hydraulic steering, a larger plate will slow the top end down due to already tight steering becoming even tighter at higher speeds. This is of course theory but the puzzle pieces fit. Keep us updated on your findings. I will be back in the water tomorrow and try to get video of mine also. Hope i am making sense andThanks again for all your help.


----------



## Damcc

Interesting question regarding height and using the third hole. Tomorrows plan is to go test the results of the ez pickup cover removed/ then reinstalled (mine hangs below the bottom of the hull about 3/4in and I know they always say no transducers there because of turbulence though also may be why my livewell works 90% of the time ) . I drug the poor thing to the shop and lifted the engine to the third hole (ironicly enough I had been thinking about it and decided to try it before I go off and spend money on prop work) so this question is soon to be resolved. I thought about jumping two holes but that much change makes me nervous. Though I highly recommend that everyone checks their engine mount bolts, mine were just hand tight, nowhere close to the spec....


----------



## Jonc

*Cavitation plate*

Hey Guys..

Been reading the comments about cavitation settings and the rule of thumb regarding most any craft is 1" above the bottom of the hull. Now, as I mentioned several pages back too much stern weight will compound the issue and I suspect that might be a contributing factor in some of your instances.

I have the 16' model and the only items under my stern deck is the fuel tank and the starting battery and I've never had an issue with the prop blowing out regardless of speed or water conditions. I run a 24 volt trolling motor system all of which I have mounted on or under the bow deck and I did originally have the trolling motor batteries but it was obviously way too much stern weight for these little boats.

Heck, the friggen coolers in my opinion are to heavy for these boats. Just a thought for you guys having issues.

Jonc


----------



## MakoSkiff

I'm also expieriencing water in the lower drain, i already had everything mounted on the deck sealed with 5200 by BPS. Im also seeing minor blowouts. its more pronounced when the stern is heavly loaaded with 2- 3 guys full cooler and two gas tanks and choppy. this sunday took it for a quick test and had one full tank of gas,empty cooler and two people(myself at the heml and g/f on the livewell seat.) andblowouts were less but still there under holeshot from standstill. at about 4k rpm it would loose bite for a ferw seconds and then continued fine all the way till max rpm. also did it on sharp turns it would loose bite. BTW mine is mounted 2nd hole from top.


----------



## frankcr

I gave away all my outboard repair manuals, but checking the manual which came with my motor agrees with my memory.

I was taught that the cavitation plate should be 1/2 to 1 inch below the bottom of the boat. The Mercury manual specifies within 1 inch below the bottom of the boat which agrees with what I understood before.

The job of the plate is to prevent air flowing along the bottom of the boat from getting under the plate so that non aerated water flows to the propeller. As the hull on the Mako is of a complex shape, air entrained in the water is forced out on either side of the central vee of the hull. As this is very narrow, excess air caught up in the flow under the hull can be a problem.

If there is a cavitation problem, the motor should be lowered on the transom. That also has the benefit of allowing the motor to be trimmed farther up while running and the trim is more effective.


----------



## DCAVA

*water in hull*

I was out on the bay with 2 of my boys yesterday; tough day of fishing, 2 huge trout spit the hook near the baot, bit i finally landed a 23" trout and my youngest son landed a 26" redfish. After washing out the boat at the carwash and rinsing it out at home I saw that water kept seaping in to a compartment below the bilge pump. My son was under there sopping it up w/a towel until it eventually stopped trickling in. Don't kow if it was the excess water i sprayed it down with at home, I always shoot lots of water under the console and I gather it was coming from there, as there is a drain hole in the center of the hull under the console? It kind if concerned me when water kept trickling in to the compartment.


----------



## DCAVA

Yesterday's catch, tough day!![/attach]


----------



## OldManOwen

Nice looking fish! Congrats! :cheers:


Nathan M Owen
SSGT USMC RET

Katie Couric while interviewing a Marine Sniper, asked:
"What do you feel when you shoot a terrorist?"
The Marine shrugged and replied: "Recoil."


----------



## frankcr

Now that is what those boats are meant to be used for. Days with your children are pure gold.

Those are very nice fish.


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## DCAVA

*Yesterdays catch*

Thanks!! I was a little dissapointed loosing 2 much bigger trout after seeing the fish so close to the boat!! Got a saying in spanish "no se quemo el sarten" english translation doesn't make much sense but it means the frying pan didn't burn with nothing in it!


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## Damcc

Results of today's test.... Engine raised one hole- bays choppy and then tested smooth in ski canals , ez cover removed. The boat ran great with no noticeable slip hole shot was improved , steering was lighter, porpoising was reduced. Engine ran fine, no overheat alarms and a healthy stream from tell tail, no major blowout in normal turns light slip in a very hard turn , Honestly think It can go up another hole. WOT rpms remain 6-6100 Test# 2 same conditions but pump cover reinstalled. Smooth canal boat preformed about the same more noise and ventilation on hole shot but nothing major just had to trim down a smidge more. In ruffer water however ventilation was very noticeable and blew the prop out once, rpms in the range of 6200. Conclusion bait well pickup is causing issues only real set back is the screws enter the hull so relocating the pickup flush with the bottom of the hull will require gel coating. Little miffed about that


----------



## OldManOwen

Damcc said:


> Results of today's test.... Engine raised one hole- bays choppy and then tested smooth in ski canals , ez cover removed. The boat ran great with no noticeable slip hole shot was improved , steering was lighter, porpoising was reduced. Engine ran fine, no overheat alarms and a healthy stream from tell tail, no major blowout in normal turns light slip in a very hard turn , Honestly think It can go up another hole. WOT rpms remain 6-6100 Test# 2 same conditions but pump cover reinstalled. Smooth canal boat preformed about the same more noise and ventilation on hole shot but nothing major just had to trim down a smidge more. In ruffer water however ventilation was very noticeable and blew the prop out once, rpms in the range of 6200. Conclusion bait well pickup is causing issues only real set back is the screws enter the hull so relocating the pickup flush with the bottom of the hull will require gel coating. Little miffed about that


Just a suggestion but in the instructions for my "Stern Saver" it says if you have existing holes in your boat to seal them with 5200 and mount it right over them. Then you can adjust as much as needed without drilling any holes in your boat and the "Stern Saver" is permanent. It took me less than 10 minutes to mount mine and it looks great.

Nathan M Owen
SSGT USMC RET

Katie Couric while interviewing a Marine Sniper, asked:
"What do you feel when you shoot a terrorist?"
The Marine shrugged and replied: "Recoil."


----------



## joebucko

Appreciate the report DAMCC. I don't have the livewell pickup on my boat so that won't be a problem for me. I am going out tomorrow and try and get a better video of my anti-cav plate so I have something to compare to before I raise my engine.
Did raising it affect your top end speed? With less drag from the lower unit I'd expect some modest difference. What prop are you running?


----------



## DCAVA

*Motor height*

I have seen that there are adjustment holes for motor height. My rig performs fine at full throttle 5900-6000 rpm at factory settings of the motor. I figured out the hole shot/plane in the shallows also. I was making the mistake ot turning the motor completely to one side and trying to have all aboard lean to one side, the way we've done it in the past on a coulpe of different boats. This rig won't lean enough cause of hull design; so, i just gave it a slight turn and hit the throttle, i straigtened out slowly catching/riding my own wake and the sucker planed right out of 1-1 1/2 foot of water. Quick trim adjustments and vamonos!!


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## Damcc

The prop is a mercury vengance 10.5x13. Top end speed was 36 at 6000, this seems like it would be an awesome prop for someone that has a load in the boat, It's usually just me, the cooler and a few minnows on my trips, if anyone's interested in it shoot me a pm. I'm going to buy another one with about an inch more pitch to bring the rpms down to range


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## FlatsCatFL

Damcc, i thought 6k was the recommended top rpm.


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## Damcc

FlatsCatFL said:


> Damcc, i thought 6k was the recommended top rpm.


It will go to 6300 at wot, I have to back it down...


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## joebucko

Damcc
Did the 6300 rpm occur after the motor lift or has your engine always run this high. When I first got my boat I had a 10 3/8" x 14P aluminum prop and it would only get to 5700-5800. I changed to the 10 3/8"x13P and it now pegs at 6000 and 34mph. If you drop down to a 14P I expect you will be right on the 6000 mark. Might even pick up another mph or 2 at the same time.

I was going to take another video this a.m. while fishing but the lake was just too choppy. Thunderstorms in the area and probably 20mph winds with at least 2ft rollers on the lake. Boat did great and was absolutely dry as a bone just too bumpy to film.


----------



## DCAVA

*Prop/rpms*



joebucko said:


> damcc
> did the 6300 rpm occur after the motor lift or has your engine always run this high. When i first got my boat i had a 10 3/8" x 14p aluminum prop and it would only get to 5700-5800. I changed to the 10 3/8"x13p and it now pegs at 6000 and 34mph. If you drop down to a 14p i expect you will be right on the 6000 mark. Might even pick up another mph or 2 at the same time.
> 
> I was going to take another video this a.m. While fishing but the lake was just too choppy. Thunderstorms in the area and probably 20mph winds with at least 2ft rollers on the lake. Boat did great and was absolutely dry as a bone just too bumpy to film.


my skiff is running w/the revenge stainless prop mentioned earlier; this seems to be the setup for saltwater use on the mako skiff models. It is a great prop to bring rpm/mph to what is published in owners manuals and reviews on our boats. If damcc sells his u might want to buy it, even though you run fresh water.


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## DCAVA

I have also had my skiff rev up to 6300 rpms/higher mph given wind direction and smoothness of water, usually happens in the deep arroyo on the way back to the boat ramp, and when trimmed up just before porposing, i have to cut back throttle to keep it at 5700-5800.


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## DCAVA

DCAVA said:


> my skiff is running w/the revenge stainless prop mentioned earlier; this seems to be the setup for saltwater use on the mako skiff models. It is a great prop to bring rpm/mph to what is published in owners manuals and reviews on our boats. If damcc sells his u might want to buy it, even though you run fresh water.


 my mistake, it's not a revenge prop its a vengeance, i'm thinking of the redfield riflescope i bought late last deer season for my .06.


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## Damcc

joebucko said:


> Damcc
> Did the 6300 rpm occur after the motor lift or has your engine always run this high. When I first got my boat I had a 10 3/8" x 14P aluminum prop and it would only get to 5700-5800. I changed to the 10 3/8"x13P and it now pegs at 6000 and 34mph. If you drop down to a 14P I expect you will be right on the 6000 mark. Might even pick up another mph or 2 at the same time.
> 
> I was going to take another video this a.m. while fishing but the lake was just too choppy. Thunderstorms in the area and probably 20mph winds with at least 2ft rollers on the lake. Boat did great and was absolutely dry as a bone just too bumpy to film.


Yes it's always been a red line pusher even with a load of me 215lbs and a friend 300lbs, full cooler , 11 gals of gas, full bait well, rods and gear it'll jump past 6000 with the wind, into the wind. Maybe I got a 65 horse idk. A mako dealer in new braunsfels recommended jumping to a 15p x 10.5. I was thinking going to a 11.5x14p 4blade. I know an inch of pitch is worth 200rpm and an extra blade 50-100 rpm but what about an inch in diameter?


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## joebucko

I don't have a clue as to the effect of increasing the diameter of the prop. I would guess it could reduce the rpms but how much is a question for the prop experts. I am very interested in what you finally end up with and the related performance changes. 
I looked at my engine after returning home this morning and was pleased to see that it has a built in lifting ring which will make moving the motor up an easy job.


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## Damcc

joebucko said:


> I don't have a clue as to the effect of increasing the diameter of the prop. I would guess it could reduce the rpms but how much is a question for the prop experts. I am very interested in what you finally end up with and the related performance changes.
> I looked at my engine after returning home this morning and was pleased to see that it has a built in lifting ring which will make moving the motor up an easy job.


Took about 15mins under the chain fall at my shop


----------



## MakoSkiff

I have the 4 blade alum spitfire 14 inch pitch, and can pretty much reach 6k rpm if conditions are right and it might hang a bit around 5- 5.5 k for while before going up. Especially when loaded down with 3 people semi full cooler two tanks of gas and I also added trolling motor and battery. Thinking of getting vengeance 13p in the near future.


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## DCAVA

makoskiff said:


> i have the 4 blade alum spitfire 14 inch pitch, and can pretty much reach 6k rpm if conditions are right and it might hang a bit around 5- 5.5 k for while before going up. Especially when loaded down with 3 people semi full cooler two tanks of gas and i also added trolling motor and battery. Thinking of getting vengeance 13p in the near future.


are you running your skiff in fresh or saltwater? The vengeance prop pushes boy, i usually have my wife and 2 of my kids w/me and that sucker will hit 6000rpms in the bay chop w/ the motor trimmed just right.


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## Deepsouthdiver

Whew!!! Took the Mako out this afternoon. NOAA was calling for "moderate chop in they bay" I made it to the center channel and that was all the wife wanted. Several 3 footers and after the barge we cut through some 4 plus! The little skiff that could handled them beautifully but the over spray was more than soaking. We turned back and ended the day so I wouldn't get yelled at. I am very happy with stability and learned a lot from this short adventure. Still cavitating on the down side of the waves. Didn't get to look at anything else but Sunday is calling for smooth waters!!


----------



## Damcc

*Lost one of our own.*

Appears that one of our fellow mako owners has lost there life due to a boating accedent in Galveston Tx. http://www.khou.com/news/local/Coas...ng-50-year-old-man-in-West-Bay-219779721.html For safety's sake please remember to wear your kill switch lanyards. I know I have to remind myself constantly about wearing mine


----------



## Winters97gt

frankcr said:


> Winters, sorry to hear about your problems. The problems you had with the motor should not have happened, but are you running the boat in waters is was not designed for? It is not an open water design where Vee bottom, self bailing boats reign. Do you see similar size Carolina Skiffs in use where you boat?
> 
> When you say you are taking on water, could it be through the hull drain or do you think the boat has hull damage from wave action?
> 
> I hope you find a craft suitable for your fishing conditions.


Thanks. My old man has a new 21ft sport and also a 21ft explorer.

I absolutely love the 17'ft mako skiff. And the strait shooting for repairs/warranty work from Doug at Tacker in Katy Texas has kept me in this boat for the time. I'm heading to Aruba for 2 weeks on the 26th, so I'll put the boat in for warranty work.

As far as where I run the boat, yes, I've taken it in chop in Galveston Bay where bigger boats are. However, as I stated, the vast majority of fishing is out of SPI, which is all shallow water in comparison(even on the Port Isabel/Laguna Vista side). I clean the entire boat top to bottom and flush the motor while in the slip.

There are just too many parts on this boat not suited for everyday saltwater use in comparison to boats made here in Texas, while much more expensive.

It's a great little weekend warrior in very calm bays and probably a great boat for lakes, though I've only taken the boat to lake Houston and Fayetteville 5 days. The boat drifts in about 9-10 inches of water with me and a passenger. The key, as others have posted, to getting the boat on plane is quickly going WOT with it trimmed up while puddling, quickly trimming down, then back up. I've tested every method possible, and you can do this loaded in about 18 inches of water. Just work the trim.


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## MakoSkiff

DCAVA said:


> are you running your skiff in fresh or saltwater? The vengeance prop pushes boy, i usually have my wife and 2 of my kids w/me and that sucker will hit 6000rpms in the bay chop w/ the motor trimmed just right.


Saltwater


----------



## frankcr

Winters, very sorry the boat does not fit your needs better, but it is definitely at its best in river chop or flat water which is where we use ours. In the river chop, the hull exceeds our expectations. We stay our of the sounds where you often find 2 to 3 ft waves which would be a bad situation. I am not familiar with the conditions in the area where you fish. The water in the hull concerned me in that it could have been structural.

I have noticed a few screws which are not stainless or of low quality. For some reason in our area, the screws we have been buying locally have been low grade stainless also which is the pits.

Hope you find the hull which is better suited for your use. Getting beat up takes the fun out of boating.

I was sorry to see the post about the boater who lost his life. I started boating before kill switches were used on boats and have to remind myself to wear one. Honestly, I am lax in that area which is stupid on my part. I was lax about wearing my seat belt until one day I spun out on the highway and happened to be belted in.


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## DCAVA

That was a tragic incident with the fellow in houston who died. I need to always attach the kill switch! Accidents can happen at any time and the devil never sleeps. All u guys out there be careful and let's take care of ourselves for our families.


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## DCAVA

*South texas weekend weather*



Deepsouthdiver said:


> Whew!!! Took the Mako out this afternoon. NOAA was calling for "moderate chop in they bay" I made it to the center channel and that was all the wife wanted. Several 3 footers and after the barge we cut through some 4 plus! The little skiff that could handled them beautifully but the over spray was more than soaking. We turned back and ended the day so I wouldn't get yelled at. I am very happy with stability and learned a lot from this short adventure. Still cavitating on the down side of the waves. Didn't get to look at anything else but Sunday is calling for smooth waters!!


YOU ARE RUNNING IN THE LOWER LAGUNA RIGHT? I PLAN ON A TRIP FOR SUNDAY, BUT THIS TROPICAL SYSTEM APPROACHING THE GULF IS GONNA STIR STUFF UP. FISHING SHOULD BE GOOD ON SUN, AS LONG AS IT DOESNT RAIN.
WHERE DO U LAUNCH FROM?:cloud:


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## Damcc

I'm based out of corpus, launch off of lagona shores , one day we should have a mini mako tournament.


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## DCAVA

*Mini mako tourney*

Hey, that sounds like a great idea!! Need some other guys to participate who are in our general area. Put a good purse out there for best stringer!!! I'm in!! $$$$ i'm all about money dogs!!!


----------



## DCAVA

Who's fishing tomorrow?


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## Damcc

I went today, got one nice drum and tomorrow it's going down


----------



## DCAVA

Gonna do an afternoon fish tomorrow, God willing we'll hook em' up!! Good luck to u. Will wait for pics on mon.


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## charliel2

*No 2014 17' Pro Skiff?*

Saw that basspro.com has the 2014's out but no 17' ProSkiff. They did add the 21LTS though...?


----------



## DCAVA

I noticed that also, maybe they are gonna make some changes on it?


----------



## charliel2

I also received a Bass Pro flyer today in the mail that showed, "Up to $3000 off" with a pic of a 17' Pro Skiff. I wasn't able to find that on the website either.


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## David.

DCAVA said:


> I noticed that also, maybe they are gonna make some changes on it?


I just hug the shorelines and I am fine. I never cut threw the intercostal unless I have to. You dock off at arroyo city ?


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## DCAVA

Yea i launch out of thomae park. Your from san bene? I was born and raised there. I live in harlingen now but am a greyhound till i die! This little mako skiff i bought tears it up in the laguna, up and down the intercoastal, in and out of the shallows.


----------



## modestmike

Any locals (SPI) want to buddy boat out to the Port Isabel Reef Wednesday morning? Looking at a 1.5'-2' swell.


----------



## DCAVA

*Wedensday*

It'd be fun Mike, but I gotta work. Can't fish till Sunday, and it looks like rain all week for us here in the valley. If u go out, be safe.


----------



## joebucko

I shot another video of the anti-cav plate this morning and posted it on youtube: 



Motor in factory installed position at 2nd hole
6000 rpm, Black Max aluminum 3 blade prop 10 3/8 x 13P
34 mph at WOT

The only time the plate barely cleared the water surface was trimmed up but was porpoising so I trimmed it back down slightly. I am going to raise the motor one hole and see what changes.


----------



## Damcc

I looked at mine on Sunday after raising a hole and still looks submerged, jumping another hole this week


----------



## texasislandboy

modestmike said:


> Any locals (SPI) want to buddy boat out to the Port Isabel Reef Wednesday morning? Looking at a 1.5'-2' swell.


Looks like 2' texas chop. I may troll around on sat.


----------



## DCAVA

*Motor height*



joebucko said:


> i shot another video of the anti-cav plate this morning and posted it on youtube:
> 
> 
> 
> motor in factory installed position at 2nd hole
> 6000 rpm, black max aluminum 3 blade prop 10 3/8 x 13p
> 34 mph at wot
> 
> the only time the plate barely cleared the water surface was trimmed up but was porpoising so i trimmed it back down slightly. I am going to raise the motor one hole and see what changes.


I looked at my motor on sunday, noticed it was on the bottom hole frome factory, is that the way you'alls was set up from factory?


----------



## DCAVA

texasislandboy said:


> looks like 2' texas chop. I may troll around on sat.


Forecast for entire week shows showers on/off; probly be out Sunday morning throwing a popping cork on the drift. Got skunked last Sunday by saucer area, gonna head south near cullen home, or gaswell flat areas? Have u fished that area lately?


----------



## joebucko

Damcc
Please let me know how the boat responds when you raise it. I believe you are running a stainless Vengeance 14" pitch propeller aren't you?


----------



## modestmike

texasislandboy said:


> Looks like 2' texas chop. I may troll around on sat.


Never slowed me down....okay maybe it does slow me down BUT, it never stopped me. I probably won't go due to the reported rain/thunderstorms. It probably won't come in but I don't want to make any plans with that in the forecast.


----------



## texasislandboy

DCAVA said:


> Forecast for entire week shows showers on/off; probly be out Sunday morning throwing a popping cork on the drift. Got skunked last Sunday by saucer area, gonna head south near cullen home, or gaswell flat areas? Have u fished that area lately?


had a few nice fish hit top waters right at sunrise. I left the dock at dark ran the whole bay in pitch black till we hit the channel houses fished the drop off and picked up some nice fish. Red fish are up shallow right now really shallow... this was all within the last 4 days.


----------



## texasislandboy

modestmike said:


> Never slowed me down....okay maybe it does slow me down BUT, it never stopped me. I probably won't go due to the reported rain/thunderstorms. It probably won't come in but I don't want to make any plans with that in the forecast.


I'll be out in the bay boat unless I get to mess with the offshore boat this week sometime.


----------



## DCAVA

Thanks for the info; let's see how this rain plays out latter part of the week.


----------



## Damcc

You mean motor as high as it'll go or low as it'll go? Mine was on the second hole from the top


----------



## DCAVA

I was looking at motor mounted to transom. It is mounted 2nd hole from the top also. Will lifting it help hole shot in shallow water, you think? There's another cat that runs down here, said he installed a hydrofoil and power lift. He hasn't a clue of any type of performance gained, i would think these mods should help the plane in the flats. In shallows we need to find the right set up to hole shot/plane out in 1 ft of water or less!


----------



## Winters97gt

DCAVA said:


> I was looking at motor mounted to transom. It is mounted 2nd hole from the top also. Will lifting it help hole shot in shallow water, you think? There's another cat that runs down here, said he installed a hydrofoil and power lift. He hasn't a clue of any type of performance gained, i would think these mods should help the plane in the flats. In shallows we need to find the right set up to hole shot/plane out in 1 ft of water or less!


This boat won't get up with a 60 merc in 1 foot of water or less. Owning the boat only 3 months, I've fished everywhere from Gaswell to South Bay in about 30-35 fishing days out of SPI/Port I. Puddle out trimmed up, trim back down and then get up on plane.


----------



## DCAVA

I have gotten up in a foot of water or less, but sometimes it seems to put alot of strain on the motor while doing it; i wonder what mod would make it easier on the outboard, if possible.


----------



## MakoSkiff

update on livewell and water in hull issue. recap, mine a 2012 and was upgraded to the 2013 livewell system and well same *****. no go.. after further research the 2012 pickup is on the port side and it sits higher than the over flow drain, which is on the starboard side. So i told the guys at bass pro to swap the pump to the starboard which is lower in the water and to install the ezpump pick up scoop and this time seal the MF. which they didnt seal last time. and we'll see what happens. 
water in hull they filled it with water through the rigging tube at console and than dropped the bow down and all the water flowed through the rigging tube to the cavity inside the hull under the bow. when they raise with fork lift the bow, it started draning out the lower drain. So apparently the rigging tube dumps all water from bilge area foward into the bow when stopping and when you plane and bow lifts up it all goes to lower drain area which is inder the bilge pump and therefore it can't be sucked out.
Personally i consider this a serious design flaw!. If the water would be able to be sucked up by the bilge pump while under it would be fine. but stay trapped under bilge area until boat is pulled out is Not Good. Also think of all the foam and how it must get saturated with water over time.next thing you it will weigh as much as the 18LTS and will need a repower to push all that load. LOL. 
Now i just need them to mount my transduce properly. they mounted it to low.


----------



## MakoSkiff

Here are pics from the water test. If Anyone else is having these issues contact mako and Mako and ask to speak to Steve Richardson. As for anyone down here in s Fl take to the bass pro In Dania Bch they know these boats pretty well


----------



## MakoSkiff

More pics


----------



## MakoSkiff

Water draining out


----------



## MakoSkiff

Transducer


----------



## rgourley11

I must be lucky with mine. My live well has had no problems after the new pump and ez pick-up installed a couple months ago. I may get a 1/4 cup full of water out of the lower hull drain if any at all.


----------



## DCAVA

rgourley11 said:


> i must be lucky with mine. My live well has had no problems after the new pump and ez pick-up installed a couple months ago. I may get a 1/4 cup full of water out of the lower hull drain if any at all.


Glad to hear on your skiff. I havent had much water in the hull either, I jack up the trailer as high as it goes when I wash mine down and it drains out well. Where did u get new pump and the ez pick up installed? I still had issues with mine losing prime after plane a couple of weeks ago trying to keep live bait in the livewell.


----------



## LitUp

*TTop*

Finally got it back from proline, looks good runs good


----------



## DCAVA

Top looks tight!! Much better than a bimini!!!


----------



## joebucko

Very Cool looking T-Top LitUp. Now get out there and catch fish.


----------



## LitUp

*night fishing*

only caught two but i had fun


----------



## OldManOwen

Nice Cat!


Nathan M Owen
SSGT USMC RET

Katie Couric while interviewing a Marine Sniper, asked:
"What do you feel when you shoot a terrorist?"
The Marine shrugged and replied: "Recoil."


----------



## DCAVA

Cool, hope to fish sunday. Lots of squirrely rain here all week!


----------



## FlatsCatFL

LitUp said:


> Finally got it back from proline, looks good runs good


Holy S###, a Mako Pro Skiff with a Top Hat.....very cool LitUp, congrats!


----------



## MakoSkiff

love the t top,where did you get it? who makes one for our boats? That thing is sweet,nice boat!
someone here in another thread has a jackplate and pooling platform on his.


----------



## rgourley11

LitUp said:


> Finally got it back from proline, looks good runs good


Man that a sweet top


----------



## rgourley11

DCAVA said:


> Glad to hear on your skiff. I havent had much water in the hull either, I jack up the trailer as high as it goes when I wash mine down and it drains out well. Where did u get new pump and the ez pick up installed? I still had issues with mine losing prime after plane a couple of weeks ago trying to keep live bait in the livewell.


Bass pro guys installed all of it. I will get a pic. My pump is at 45 angle, do not know if that's it or just lucky with it.


----------



## DCAVA

Got the same pump set up, it seems to work when it want's to. Gonna use it on sunday with live shrimp, sucker better work!!!


----------



## LitUp

I had the top custom made from proline aluminum in san antonio, they do good work but it is not cheap. On another not i also had another battery installed and with that extra battery and the added weight of the top i have noticed it takes longer to plane out, havent noticed any prop slippage but it was real calm when i went out last so i dont know if i will start having that problem like so many other on the forum.


----------



## frankcr

In addition to the weight, you are putting a load on the boat to push against the air resistance of the top.

That is a very nice looking arrangement you have.


----------



## FlyItAll

*Water in Hull*

I was real pleased the last time out to only have a few drops out of the drain between the liner and the hull. Thanks to JoeB advice to torque down that drain plug beyond finger tight.
The info Makoskiff provided was real interesting and highlights an issue to watch. I haven't thought up a solution for that yet, but a few ideas are forming....I wonder if a bilge pump could be relocated into the sump area where the wires and hoses exit the rigging tube. I can't think of any good way to seal the back of the rigging tube to keep water from traveling forward in the tube. 
I took my daughter and husband out along with my wife and I which was the most weight I've had in it. Since the motor is now broken in, I did a lot more high speed running around. In fact I ran out of gas 200 yards from the ramp! I might have kept that last bit to myself except my daughter posted it on Facebook and now everyone I know is aware of it. I was planning on buying a second gas tank as a backup, but think now I'll get a 12 gallon tank and permanently mount it.


----------



## DCAVA

The 12 gallon tank is very useful. I can run to the spots we normally fish and get out of the water using maybe 4-41/2 gallons of gas. You need check/test distances u plan to run. Hope to be on the bay tomorrow am and hook em' up!!!


----------



## KeithD.

*Bimini Info*

I wanted let you guys know that I installed my bimini today. Bought from Kapsco Moto like the other guys but I bought the 72 inch wide instead of the 78. It fits the inside where the guys are putting them but you do not need to modify the pipes by cutting them. I have the 4 bow 8 foot long version.


----------



## MakoSkiff

Well this past Friday they change the livewell pump to the starboard side which the fitting is lower in the water and the overflow to the other side which is higher. So well see when ever I get to take it to sea. They water tested it in a local lake and it still came out with a cup of water. Now it's at another bass pro tracker. Boat center and well see what happens. So far no one knows. They pressure tested livewell hoses and nothing no leaks. This really sucks I have Bradley enjoyed this stinking boat. The times I take it out its testing for water inside hull. I can honestly say if ur looking for something like this boat spend the few extra dollars and get the mako 18 lts. It's meant more for saltwater and has more stainless steal components. The pro skiff 17 doesn't have much saltwater proof components. It's more suited for lakes maybe brackish water. This boat has spent more time in the shop than in my backyard. Lol. It's faded more in sun in bass pro than out being used. After they sent this thing Bradenton fl. Factory / bass pro and they sealed every component mmounted on deck and clear foam blockage from lower drain I thought water issues were resolved so I added trolling Mtr with the original overpriced harness so that can't say it caused any damage along with original load guides and spare tire. Also had them install the lowrance mark 4, and here we are I haven't been able to enjoy any this. I honestly regret buying this thing and I Intennd to go to the mako funament I. Keys and voice my opinion of the design flaw of hull and rigging tube.


----------



## OldManOwen

MakoSkiff said:


> Well this past Friday they change the livewell pump to the starboard side which the fitting is lower in the water and the overflow to the other side which is higher. So well see when ever I get to take it to sea. They water tested it in a local lake and it still came out with a cup of water. Now it's at another bass pro tracker. Boat center and well see what happens. So far no one knows. They pressure tested livewell hoses and nothing no leaks. This really sucks I have Bradley enjoyed this stinking boat. The times I take it out its testing for water inside hull. I can honestly say if ur looking for something like this boat spend the few extra dollars and get the mako 18 lts. It's meant more for saltwater and has more stainless steal components. The pro skiff 17 doesn't have much saltwater proof components. It's more suited for lakes maybe brackish water. This boat has spent more time in the shop than in my backyard. Lol. It's faded more in sun in bass pro than out being used. After they sent this thing Bradenton fl. Factory / bass pro and they sealed every component mmounted on deck and clear foam blockage from lower drain I thought water issues were resolved so I added trolling Mtr with the original overpriced harness so that can't say it caused any damage along with original load guides and spare tire. Also had them install the lowrance mark 4, and here we are I haven't been able to enjoy any this. I honestly regret buying this thing and I Intennd to go to the mako funament I. Keys and voice my opinion of the design flaw of hull and rigging tube.


I'm sorry to hear your having problems, at least it sounds like they are trying to fix them? I know it isn't any consolation to you but I have a 2012 Pro Skiff 17 and after 6 hours of fishing I have never had more than an ounce or two of water come out the bottom drain. I only hand tighten the drain and I assume the minimal water I do get down there is from me rinsing out the boat with a 5 gallon bucket while on the lake. I plan on replacing my bait-well pump with a wash-down pump and connecting it inside the bait-well where I will keep the hose coiled up. I hope you do get the issue resolved, my wife and I love the little boat and don't think we could have done better for the price. :cheers:

Nathan M Owen
SSGT USMC RET

Katie Couric while interviewing a Marine Sniper, asked:
"What do you feel when you shoot a terrorist?"
The Marine shrugged and replied: "Recoil."


----------



## DCAVA

*Sunday's adventure*

It was a nice day on the lower laguna, till we got caught in sudden thunderstorms and had to hightail it out of the water.

My oldest son Daniel and I were able to land 3 keeper specks before getting caught by the rain.

Notice how the 22" trout Daniel caught had very little if any specks on it? Will be good table fare!!

We would've limited out if it werent for the rain; there was trout feeding all around us!!

[/attach]


----------



## Damcc

It was a pretty day in the lagona we got a little wet from the rain but nothing too bad. Nice trout. My haul wasn't nearly as good .


----------



## OldManOwen

Good job guys! I know what you mean by T-Storm's sneaking up on you, I rode one out on an island 2 weeks ago. I bet we got 2 inches of rain in the 10 minutes we were huddled up under the tree's.
It almost looks like you can see fish feeding on the surface in your pic! Have fun and be safe!


Nathan M Owen
SSGT USMC RET

Katie Couric while interviewing a Marine Sniper, asked:
"What do you feel when you shoot a terrorist?"
The Marine shrugged and replied: "Recoil."


----------



## DCAVA

OldManOwen said:


> Good job guys! I know what you mean by T-Storm's sneaking up on you, I rode one out on an island 2 weeks ago. I bet we got 2 inches of rain in the 10 minutes we were huddled up under the tree's.
> It almost looks like you can see fish feeding on the surface in your pic! Have fun and be safe!
> 
> Nathan M Owen
> SSGT USMC RET
> 
> Katie Couric while interviewing a Marine Sniper, asked:
> "What do you feel when you shoot a terrorist?"
> The Marine shrugged and replied: "Recoil."


Thanks Owen, those were trout feeding on the surface in the pic! We were in about 1 1/2 ft of water.
Dammcc
Nice catch also, mangrove snapper are super tasty!!


----------



## OldManOwen

I know i'm not in TX but I went out with the wife Saturday morning and had a blast! 
We caught a few of the biggest Bluegill/Panfish I have ever seen this morning, they would not have fit on a paper plate! The wife landed a really nice cat and I was able to land a 13# cat on my ultra light spinning rod I use for trout! The fish nearly spooled us twice and I had to follow it with the Minn Kota, thank goodness for the necklace remote! Still not Stripers but we are enjoying the new boat until we can get a bait tank. We are really enjoying our little boat!





Nathan M Owen
SSGT USMC RET

Katie Couric while interviewing a Marine Sniper, asked:
"What do you feel when you shoot a terrorist?"
The Marine shrugged and replied: "Re


----------



## DCAVA

Nice, these boats are great, makes for a good family time!!


----------



## Damcc

Nice lookin cats, I shutter for the day I pull up a hardheads that size lol Jk its already happened. Will agree overall great little boat if I can ever get all the kinks worked out its perfect for where I fish and just goes to show you can have just as much fun as the deep pocket guys


----------



## DCAVA

My stringers usually smoke the guys w/$40k+ shallow sports and dargels; in spanish we have a saying; "es el mono" it's the guy's ability throwing the rod/reel or shooting skills when it comes to hunting which determines the outcome of game harvested!!


----------



## frankcr

MakoSkiff, it is a shame that the boat does not meet your requirements, but it is very nice for what it is. If you spend time in rougher waters, you would be happier with a vee bottom craft.

The flat bottom Carolina Skiffs are very popular in this area, but I do not like the way they handle river chop. We needed something capable of carrying five of us on small to larger rivers, mother shipping our kayaks, fishing, cast netting for shrimp and such and the design works very well for us. We have not had the opportunity to carry the kayaks yet, but it seems doable. We got the tiller version due to it being adaptable to whatever configuration we need for the various activities, so there are no holes through the floor to admit water below the deck.

Hopefully you can trade for something more suited for your usage. We gave away our 21 ft deep vee cuddy cabin, as it was not worth a hoot for our purposes.


----------



## joebucko

Subject: Water entering hull.

A number of people have complained about this and I just wanted again to explain what cured my problem. I had water in my hull for the first month I owned my boat. Each time I hauled it out of the water and removed the drain plug I would drain out water. Some times a quart and sometimes several gallons. I had not used my live well, it hadn't rained, I did not wash it down nor did I take on any water/waves while boating. When I got home I would crawl under the boat and look for cracks in my hull but everything looked fine.

I then remembered what a mechanic once told me...KeepItSimpleStupid. I surmised that water had to be entering through my drain plug somehow. I unscrewed the stainless steel drain plug and looked at it closely. It fits pretty loosely and depends on an 'O' ring to seal. If any debris is blocking that hole or the plug is not screwed in tight enough it will seep water into the boat. I had been firmly hand tightening the plug. 

Next trip out I used a small crescent wrench to tighten it extra firm. This time when the drain plug was removed I had a drop or two of water. Since that day I have tightened the plug with a wrench and have never had water in my hull again.


----------



## DCAVA

That's what I do Joe, except w/pliers; no draining water when I pull plugs, other than what I rinse in the boat that goes into the center line hole in the hull.


----------



## joebucko

DCAVA
The only thing on my boat that resembles a centerline hole would be either the cabling hole under the console or where the cables exit under the stern casting platform. Does your boat have some other opening on the deck?


----------



## MakoSkiff

Well turns out the water is coming through the rigging tube, turns out a few had been produced with faulty/cut rigging tubes,which allows water into lower hull. At least thats the story i got and that hull has to replaced. they couldn't have done this months ago, ive been dealing with this for a year. Once it spent a whole month at the shop and another time it went to Bradenton, fl factory and now they finally want to replace the hull. Lets see how long i'll be without a boat.I had already reserved a room in the keys for upcoming mako funament. I can't believe how long this has taken for them admit there is an issue with the hull and i'm alos not buying entirely the cut in the rigging tube all the way. their BS basically screwed up my boating this summer. hey at least i'm in florida and back in jersey.LOL. I just think they dodged the issue until they had no choice in the mean time i had to keep paying while it would back and forth to BPS. ohh btw the drain plug had been replaced already and also when it was up in bradenton, fl factory back in feb or march of this year.


----------



## DCAVA

joebucko said:


> dcava
> the only thing on my boat that resembles a centerline hole would be either the cabling hole under the console or where the cables exit under the stern casting platform. Does your boat have some other opening on the deck?


Yes sir, I was referring to the hole under the console.


----------



## frankcr

Good to hear that they are replacing your boat, as you were certainly snake bit. Hopefully they will get on the ball and furnish your replacement soon.

By the way, you folks who are posting pictures are doing me a lot of good. I have been dry docked since April, so it is good to see what a fish looks like and how the skiffs do for you. When they get me fixed up I intend to run the bottom off our skiff. I have a grandson who needs to learn how to handle a boat. Shoot, might even catch a fish of my own


----------



## Damcc

The dreaded dry dock lol I know that somedays mine will have a drop or two come out of the lower plug others a gallon or so it just depends on how often I remember to bilge the upper tub out. The livewell drain is a bit slow though I'm guilty of letting it overfill sometimes on man operation. I really think an autobilge pump would catch it before it got to the rigging tube. I know it's strictly livewell related on mine cause on a boat ride day with no bait= no water in the lower hull. Hope it gets all worked out for you and sorry for the no fishing summer.


----------



## MakoSkiff

fill yours with water with the bow pointing up through rigging tube opening under console and let it puddle in the stern in bilge area and then stop water and place boat level(NOTE: make sure bilge drain plug is on tight,BUT leave lower drain open) when boat is level see if water comes out. Than repeat this process,But after putting water drop nose down and than jack it back up all the way and see if water comes out the lower drain on any of thses circumstances, when level and pointing up after trailer had been lowered all the way down. Any water = means rigging tube is broken somewhere!


----------



## frankcr

Did you by any chance hear if the boat is filled with open cell or closed cell foam in your discussions with Mako? If open cell, water could soak the foam, but if closed cell the foam should not be affected.


----------



## MakoSkiff

From my discussion with one of sm at the stores is that they use closed cell from what he has seen on larger offshore models, but unsure what they use on the cheaper boats. He has seen the from from the smaller skiffs. I honestly can't imagine them using higher grade foam In the budget boats. Hell it's all about cost cutting with tracker , Look at the 18 and 21 LTS and there are rough unfinished areas just to save and hr or two of labor and a few supplies. Someone here had a small review of a 21 lts he saw at tx dealer and I've seen behind certain areas myself. So who knows


----------



## MakoSkiff

Well now hull replacement is on hold. They're not moving fwd. lets see


----------



## charliel2

*Bildge Pump*

All this "water in hull" discussion is moot if these boats just had a true bildge pump. I am think about cutting a hole in the recessed area and re-installing the "deck pump" in there with a float switch. That's the only way to ensure you can get the water out of the bildge area while underway.

It's really not safe without the ability to do that.


----------



## joebucko

I contacted Mako today about the flotation foam used in our Pro Skiffs and they assured me that it was marine grade closed cell.


----------



## Techguy802

joebucko said:


> I contacted Mako today about the flotation foam used in our Pro Skiffs and they assured me that it was marine grade closed cell.


It sounds like I will be dropping my boat off at Bass Pro in the near future. Not real happy but at least from what you guys are finding there is progress being made on the water in the hull.

On another note, for you southern guys, what weight oil are you running? I want to change my own, 20 hour service, and am looking for suggestions in hotter climates.

Thanks!


----------



## DCAVA

Have yet to hit the 25-30 hrs for 1st oil change. Probably need to ask at bps then do it yourself..


----------



## frankcr

If they use closed cell foam, then the only worry would be if enough water got in the bottom to effect stability. The open volume is probably pretty small in a foamed hull.

As far as the boats being cheap, subtract the cost of all the bells and whistles furnished on the more expensive models and they are not as inexpensive as you think. The center consol is plastic vs hand laid fiberglass which should save a lot of money, there are no gunnel trolling rod holders, a minimum of instrumentation, and plain jane cable steering. There is little upholstery and no real sealed compartments. The decks are basically flat FG layups. If they use tinned wire, they should be good to go. I have purchased quite a few stainless fasteners of late, and the quality is not what it used to be, maybe Chinese imports. I would say they sell for a reasonable price for what you get.

I agree with Charliel that having the deck made so that the pumps could be mounted on the hull bottom would be nice. A bottom pickup on the bait well pump would probably solve those problems but would add to the cost of the boat and require a good seacock for safety.

I went to Bass Pro today to buy a prop, but my main man was not in. He is very knowledgeable, but I missed him with my questions. The guy I talked to did say that Mako is making some changes to their line.

I have had occasion to put my hands inside the glass work on several premium brand boats, and normally you end up with fiberglass splinters in your fingers from the mat. Foam filled hulls do not require woven cloth on the side facing the foam or a smooth finish. The gel coat finish on the exposed glass beats the splatter painted finish on their competitors. This is not a Hatteras but a fishing boat. Rather than complain about the hulls, throw a few thousand more at a purchase and find what suits you best.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*Modifying hull by driling for new bilge etc.*

Fyi, I have discussed modifying the stern area of my pro skiff with my local TM/BPS service manager regarding the bilge concerns. He told me, after speaking with corp. TM, that any modifications not performed by TM/BPS would void the hull warranty.


----------



## DCAVA

That's right on the money. It may come back and kick you in the a-- if you need warranty work done later on for whatever reason.


----------



## frankcr

I would assume the floor at the transom is a structural part of the hull. Cutting a hole in it could be vary serious if that is the case, and no one could blame Mako for voiding a warranty.

There are other means to furnish water to the bait pump without butchering the deck, but they would cost money. The simplest would be a transom mounted pump flush with the bottom of the hull with the pump discharge piped through the existing fitting through the transom. You would need a float switch in the bait well wired to a solenoid valve on the discharge of the pump to prevent excess water being forced in the tank at speed plus killing the pump so that it was not dead headed and over heated. Someone sold such an animal in the past less instrumentation. A centrifugal pump does not have much lift capability.

A high mounted bilge pump would be another matter though.


----------



## joebucko

Techguy802: Oil change

When I changed mine I used the recommended Mercury 25W/40 synthetic blend and a Mercury oil filter. At the time nobody local (not even BassPro) carried it. I ordered my oil and filter from Merten Marine @$28.94/gal. Since then I have seen the Quicksilver labeled 25W/40 oil at Walmart for $34/gal.

The actual oil change was very easy although you will need an "F" size oil filter wrench from Autozone or probably any good auto parts store. This is the type that slips over the end of the filter like a socket and you use a 3/8" ratchet to turn it.


----------



## MakoSkiff

has anyone seen the bait well pump setup on the other flats boats from mako, like the 21 and 18 lts ? I've looked at these boats but never have seen where the water pick up is located and their hulls aren't much different or easier to suck water through a pump while underway. I haven't heard of any 18 lts owners complaining about the livewell. I will take a look and post pics.
also glad to know they're using closed cell foam. and yes your right it would be better if any water could be sucked out while underway from the hull cavity under the bilge.


----------



## frankcr

Well, you may want to try something like a diaphragm pump similar to the Mayfair/Johnson:

http://www.overtons.com/modperl/pro...l-Pump-4-0-GPM&i=95959&aID=601Y3&merchID=4006

These do not require a flooded suction and can run dry.

Sureflo and Jabsco also make diaphragm pumps.


----------



## joebucko

Humminbird 597 owners: I loaded the newest version of the software (6.64) yesterday and went fishing this morning. They have tweaked several features. My DownImaging works at any speed but my regular sonar would not work above 20mph, too much clutter. Whatever they enhanced it affected the sonar positively because my sonar now reads clearly past 30mph. Check it out.


----------



## OldManOwen

Awesome news! I will have to figure out how in the hell you do the upgrade! Time to dig through my desk for the instruction manual.....


Nathan M Owen
SSGT USMC RET

Katie Couric while interviewing a Marine Sniper, asked:
"What do you feel when you shoot a terrorist?"
The Marine shrugged and replied: "Recoil."


----------



## Ron_S

Thanks joebucko for the info. Looks like I'll be doing an update.


----------



## frankcr

Doesn't anyone want to try a diaphragm pump? They can run dry without harm but you could use a float switch to shut off the pump when the level in the bait well is reached if necessary. That would only be necessary if the overflow pipe were too small to drain excess water. Overflowing the tank would be eliminated, and the pump should not increase flow when the boat is running, as they only pump at rated flow.

You cannot adjust flow with a throttling valve on the discharge as with a centrifugal pump, so the flow level would require a float switch or an overflow pipe in the tank.

Some pertinent differences in the pump designs:

Centrifugal pumps require a flooded suction and are easily air locked. Flow can be controlled by a valve on the discharge as flow goes down with increased pressure. Normally one pipe size over the discharge line size is required in order to assure that the pressure on the liquid entering the pump does not fall low enough to boil the liquid. If they pump against a closed valve, the mechanical energy will be converted to heat energy and ruin the pump. That is called dead heading and is a big no no with a centrifugal pump.

Diaphragm pumps develop fairly constant pressure. They can self prime, as the suction side can pump air until the liquid reaches the pumping chamber. You do not want to increase the pressure on the discharge of the pump, as this will put excessive pressure on the diaphragms. They are designed for constant flow rates. Sand entrained in the liquid will quickly destroy the diaphragms, but the diaphragms are often replaceable. Think of the fuel pumps on most motors to understand this.

If I had one of the boats fitted with a bait tank, this would be my cure for the problems everyone seems to have. Installation should be very easy.

Water in the hull below the deck could be pumped out with a pipe through the liner connected to a diaphragm pump, but it appears this is only a problem on hulls with rigging tube problems. That would be much simpler than fiberglassing a sump in the back of the boat which would possibly create loss of warranty on the boat.


----------



## flchief

Hi, I am a new owner of 2013 Pro 17 with the 60 hp. I got it without the trolling motor and was wondering if anyone has mounted thier own bow mount trolling motor on this skiff? I could use some pointers. This is my first boat so learning as I go with thing. Hate to drive an hour to the dealer and wait a week or two on it.
Del Granger


----------



## KeithD.

*Trolling Motor Info*

I am running the minn kota 55 lb thrust. It is mounted on the removable mount system that minn kota sells. You will have to shorten the part that mounts on the boat a little. What this does is it allows you to mount the trolling motor flush with the deck. The battery is mounted on the port side in a battery box the same way that the motor battery is mounted.


----------



## DCAVA

flchief said:


> hi, i am a new owner of 2013 pro 17 with the 60 hp. I got it without the trolling motor and was wondering if anyone has mounted thier own bow mount trolling motor on this skiff? I could use some pointers. This is my first boat so learning as i go with thing. Hate to drive an hour to the dealer and wait a week or two on it.
> Del granger


I haven't had time to get a trolling motor for my skiff with work/dove season. I'll be getting one soon probably a minn kota for saltwater use. I'm sure these other fellas will chime in with input for both of us.
Dan Cavazos III


----------



## flchief

*Thanks*

Thanks for the tip, I picked up a Minn Kota saltwater 55lb thrust. So was wondering on placement and if I needed a mounting pad to make it flush with the deck. Drilling and connecting I can definiatly do, just didnt want to make a mess of it.


----------



## joebucko

flchief,
Welcome to the unofficial Mako Pro Skiff blog. Lots of us have trolling motors installed and I am sure we can help you. 

I originally had a hand controlled TM but have replaced it with a Minn Kota Terrova. Both motors were mounted on the left/port side of the front casting deck with the TM battery mounted under the front deck on starboard side. Balances the boat nicely. You will need a pad under your motor to bring it up flush with the front lip of the boat. It will need to be 3/4" thick. Starboard works nicely. 
Here are two pictures. Black motor is my Terrova and the white motor is my original MotorGuide. I can send you closeups of how my Terrova is installed it if will help.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*Removing Skiff Steering Wheel*

Joebucko, this question is for you. I know you recently replaced your helm. Was removing the steering wheel a PIA? Thanks.


----------



## flchief

Joebuckol thanks for the tips and the pictures helps a LOT, I was debating a pad under the mount now I will get one just didnt seem to fit right other wise.


----------



## joebucko

flchief
Look closely at the two pictures of the trolling motors and notice that on both there is some support near the head end when they are stowed. In the case of the Motorguide it is some starboard that I actually bolted to the aluminum bracket and on the Minn Kota it is a RamMount trolling motor support unit. If you don't support the unit near the head end it will bounce severely in heavy chop and during trailering. The units can actually bounce hard enough to strike the head against the deck. Also make sure when you mount yours that the head end in well inside the rail of the boat(does not project past the railing) otherwise it will interfere with docking and trailering if you have trailer guides.

As for the steering wheel it is a MAJOR PIA. I had to soak it with PB Blaster(penetrating oil), then actually struck the end of the bolt with a large punch and hammer several times (being careful not to mar the threads) and finally hooked a wheel puller to it before it finally broke free. I think the PB blaster and punch loosened it enough for the wheel puller to finish the job. This is a tapered shaft with a locking key so it fits really tight. I liberally spread grease on the shaft before installing the wheel on the new helm but hope I never have to actually remove the wheel again.


----------



## DCAVA

flchief said:


> thanks for the tip, i picked up a minn kota saltwater 55lb thrust. So was wondering on placement and if i needed a mounting pad to make it flush with the deck. Drilling and connecting i can definiatly do, just didnt want to make a mess of it.


Joe, and others with trollers installed already, do you think the 55lbs of thrust on the unit flchief purchased is suitable for bay use with wind/current variables while fishing on the 17' pro skiff?? Curious on that; don't wan't to buy an underpowered trolling motor. And I'm sure he doesn't want to be dissapointed with his troller either.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

joebucko said:


> flchief
> Look closely at the two pictures of the trolling motors and notice that on both there is some support near the head end when they are stowed. In the case of the Motorguide it is some starboard that I actually bolted to the aluminum bracket and on the Minn Kota it is a RamMount trolling motor support unit. If you don't support the unit near the head end it will bounce severely in heavy chop and during trailering. The units can actually bounce hard enough to strike the head against the deck. Also make sure when you mount yours that the head end in well inside the rail of the boat(does not project past the railing) otherwise it will interfere with docking and trailering if you have trailer guides.
> 
> As for the steering wheel it is a MAJOR PIA. I had to soak it with PB Blaster(penetrating oil), then actually struck the end of the bolt with a large punch and hammer several times (being careful not to mar the threads) and finally hooked a wheel puller to it before it finally broke free. I think the PB blaster and punch loosened it enough for the wheel puller to finish the job. This is a tapered shaft with a locking key so it fits really tight. I liberally spread grease on the shaft before installing the wheel on the new helm but hope I never have to actually remove the wheel again.


Thanks Joebucko for the steering wheel info. As always straight shootn' good stuff info.

I plan to upgrade to the Baystar hydraulic system and a stainless steel wheel with knob in the near future. The Wife could never adequately handle the OEM steering as is in an emergency. Cheers!


----------



## joebucko

DCAVA
That is a great question concerning the 55lb thrust versus something bigger for salt water use. I have the Terrova 55 with a 45" shaft and it has worked very well for me BUT I fish only inland lakes with little current, no tide just occasionally lots of wind. My 55# will pull my Pro17 along at 2.6mph on the highest speed. I wondered about the 45" shaft but to date I have not needed anything longer. In fact if I were in water that rough I would get out quick as it would be unsafe at least for me.

I am confident there are others on this site that do know the answer to that question.


----------



## DCAVA

Thanks for your honesty joe, i know we have kicked this subject around with owen; i also know that you guys fish fresh water lakes/rivers etc. By the way, the sceneries in youall's pics are incredible, however if anyone else running this skiff fishes saltwater bays that has a trolling motor installed, your input would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Techguy802

DCAVA said:


> Thanks for your honesty joe, i know we have kicked this subject around with owen; i also know that you guys fish fresh water lakes/rivers etc. By the way, the sceneries in youall's pics are incredible, however if anyone else running this skiff fishes saltwater bays that has a trolling motor installed, your input would be greatly appreciated.


I have a Riptide 55lb with 45" shaft on my Skiff. So far I have only had one time that it wouldn't hold me. I was fishing Blind Pass, which is only about 100' wide, on an outgoing tide and in the throat of the pass. I wasn't the only one with hold issues that day as everyone there, about 10 different boats, had to simply motor up to hold position. I don't recall one person even able to anchor up successfully!

Basically, it really depends on your fishing locations. I can get around 2.5 mph out of the Trolling Motor. I do know that there are several spots around me where there is a 3-4 mph current during a large tidal swing. These are usually narrow passes. Big fish hang out there swimming into the current and simply catch the bait fish that are being washed by in the current.

I found rather quickly in that swift of a current that I felt much better using my Merc to control the boat. I followed the pattern of the other boats and had a driver and fisherman combo.

As for the larger passes, the current is much slower but the waves are greater in an open pass! It is not uncommon to get 1-2' with an occasional 3' in the pass on a 5-10 knot wind day. Pretty rough for the motor to hold and the motor will keep coming out of the water.

I have watched the $100k plus boaters with 21' bay boats, 300hp, radar, 2 Power Poles, etc. and they are not using their trolling motor in these situations either so I didn't figure That I was missing out on anything. Not even the guys with bottomless wallets bought trolling motors to handle these bigger conditions.

I use mine to work around Mangroves and docks. It works great for this application! Especially since I sprung for the IPilot! I can drive along a spot a mile long and record the drive then fish it by myself while the motor drives! It's like having a fishing guide on the boat driving me along!

Hope this helps!


----------



## DCAVA

Thanks for the input; I am usually in the bay off the intercoastal, there is tidal/current movement; its no riptide or anything like that. I feel the 55lb thrust unit may be sufficient.


----------



## Damcc

Well anyone fish over the weekend? I went out today in the little mako at about 4:00pm caught some finger mullets and dodged the rain. Tore them up lol today's catch 5 mangroves, 18" flatty, 25.5 speck, and a 39"red (blew my tag early this year o well haven't used one of them in forever)


----------



## joebucko

Congratulations DAMCC you had an outstanding day! I bet that big Red was a hoot to land.


----------



## DCAVA

Congrats on a great day, i was torn between dove hunting or fishing, family vote and we dove hunted. I'll take tomorrow off and hit the bay!!


----------



## rgourley11

DAMCC good catch. Went out to Galveston about 100 yards from the boat cut this Saturday myself. Only managed 2 keeper trout and caught 2 Bull Red 38" and a 41" but let them go. My little Mako had to come to the rescue of 2 guys in a 25' Seafox boat. They had lose all power to the engine and I ended up towing them all the back in the the yacht basin by Pelican Island.The guy boat was only 2 week old. The starter switch fell apart on it.Full Bull RED run starts getting real hot in about 12 more days


----------



## Damcc

Yep those big bulls are allot of fun to catch, I would have released it but deep gut hook, I don't think he was going to live through it so in the cooler he went.


----------



## acoastalbender

Does anyone have the Cliff notes for this thread? ........ 


.


----------



## DCAVA

acoastalbender said:


> does anyone have the cliff notes for this thread? ........
> 
> .


 this thread has become a king sized comforter...haha!!!


----------



## OldManOwen

acoastalbender said:


> Does anyone have the Cliff notes for this thread? ........
> 
> .


HAHA I know it's long  . Just grab a :brew: and read it through. I live in TN right now and purchased a Mako 17 Pro Skiff and I have not seen another one here yet. This and the Mako Pro Skiff Mods thread is my "Go To" for good information and good people. Enjoy!

:cheers:

Nathan M Owen
SSGT USMC RET

Katie Couric while interviewing a Marine Sniper, asked:
"What do you feel when you shoot a terrorist?"
The Marine shrugged and replied: "Recoil."


----------



## charliel2

I recently purchased and installed a Stingray Starfire hydrofoil. The Starfire is a no-drill model which I was hesitant of at first but it has stayed in place very well. I have the 17' Pro Skiff w/60hp and I would recommend the Starfire. I have been out on three trips so far: 1 full day and 2 half days. They're around $70 online. My local BPS didn't carry them in stock so I ordered online for $79.99. Currently, there is a deal for free shipping on orders more then $75.

Pros:
-time to plane reduced by about half. With only two people the boat jumps on plane.
-lower planing speed, I can hold plane at about 14mph if I remember correctly.
-a little less porpoising.
-ability to get on plane in shallower water becasue it helps raise the stern during acceleration.
-ride seems more stable to me when people move around in the boat.
-protection from someone jumping on top of the prop when they exit the boat. I have a 14 and 11 year old boys, nuff said. 

Cons:
-loss of about 1, maybe 2mph per GPS. 34mph WOT.
-picks up some grass requiring a little bit of clean up at the end of the day.


----------



## DCAVA

Cool deal I've been thinking of adding a hydrofoil, but didn't know if it would help the skiff much. I've got the same setup 60hp. 

Thanks for the info.


----------



## charliel2

A Facebook community page was recently started for Mako Pro Skiff owners. It is NOT affiliated with Mako company. Hopefully, it will become a place to be used in conjunction with 2coolfishing so folks have the ability to share info and not have to read 78+ forum pages. Please feel free to start adding your mods in the photo album.

Thanks to 2coolfishing.com for letting Pro Skiff owners burn up your bandwidth thusfar.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Mako...-Community/510041079079973?hc_location=stream

Or search FB for "Mako Pro Skiff".


----------



## darrenlake

*Water in hull?*

I was moving my mako 17 cc skiff boat/trailer a small distance from its parked postion with the wheel tongue jack down. When I stopped the movement, I heard a little sloshing of water from inside the hull. I then moved around the boat and shook the boat/trailer a little and could hear some water again at various locations.

Although I'm not sure how the water entered the hull (it has been in a rainstorm or two without cover since I last pulled it from the water) my questions is, is there a way to drain this water? 
When I pull the boat out of the water I pull the boat plug (near the bilge pump) and unscrew the chrome plug below it (from the back of the boat near the prop) which usually drips a little water out. Do I need to trailer the boat to a location with a steep hill to let the water drain out of the chrome plug hole?

Also, If anyone known how this water gets down in the hull, I'd like to know. There is an opening in the hull for cables in the floor under the console and also in the rear near the bilge pump. I assume either of these locations may allow water into the hull. I just want to make sure I can drain it.


----------



## OldManOwen

charliel2 said:


> A Facebook community page was recently started for Mako Pro Skiff owners. It is NOT affiliated with Mako company. Hopefully, it will become a place to be used in conjunction with 2coolfishing so folks have the ability to share info and not have to read 78+ forum pages. Please feel free to start adding your mods in the photo album.
> 
> Thanks to 2coolfishing.com for letting Pro Skiff owners burn up your bandwidth thusfar.
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/pages/Mako...-Community/510041079079973?hc_location=stream
> 
> Or search FB for "Mako Pro Skiff".


Just "Liked" the new Facebook page and posted pics and comments and now they are all gone?

Nathan M Owen
SSGT USMC RET

Katie Couric while interviewing a Marine Sniper, asked:
"What do you feel when you shoot a terrorist?"
The Marine shrugged and replied: "Recoil."


----------



## charliel2

*Pro Skiff FB*

I see them there but they are posted as comments to the "Album Cover" photo.

I posted how to add your own photos to the albums so they show up correctly. Give it a try and lets see how it works. You should be able to copy and paste what you wrote so you don't have to type it all over again.


----------



## charliel2

*Pro Skiff FB*

If you want to post about a modification or issue with pictures:

1. Go to, "Photos"
2. Choose "Album" 
3. Choose "Hull, Electrical, Motor, etc"
4. "Add" a photo(s) of your project with comments.

Hopefully, this will make things easier to find as we gets more information on the page.


----------



## OldManOwen

charliel2 said:


> I see them there but they are posted as comments to the "Album Cover" photo.
> 
> I posted how to add your own photos to the albums so they show up correctly. Give it a try and lets see how it works. You should be able to copy and paste what you wrote so you don't have to type it all over again.


Looking now but they don't show up there for me. I'll try again.

***EDIT*** There is no option to upload a picture from the "Albums" or "Pictures" page for me. I tried just posting a comment with pics but it just ends up in the wrong place. Not sure how to proceed.

Nathan M Owen
SSGT USMC RET

Katie Couric while interviewing a Marine Sniper, asked:
"What do you feel when you shoot a terrorist?"
The Marine shrugged and replied: "Recoil."


----------



## MakoSkiff

darrenlake said:


> I was moving my mako 17 cc skiff boat/trailer a small distance from its parked postion with the wheel tongue jack down. When I stopped the movement, I heard a little sloshing of water from inside the hull. I then moved around the boat and shook the boat/trailer a little and could hear some water again at various locations.
> 
> Although I'm not sure how the water entered the hull (it has been in a rainstorm or two without cover since I last pulled it from the water) my questions is, is there a way to drain this water?
> When I pull the boat out of the water I pull the boat plug (near the bilge pump) and unscrew the chrome plug below it (from the back of the boat near the prop) which usually drips a little water out. Do I need to trailer the boat to a location with a steep hill to let the water drain out of the chrome plug hole?
> 
> Also, If anyone known how this water gets down in the hull, I'd like to know. There is an opening in the hull for cables in the floor under the console and also in the rear near the bilge pump. I assume either of these locations may allow water into the hull. I just want to make sure I can drain it.


Welcome to The Club. If you want to learn about the water in the hull read all my prior posts, it might be of some help. sounds like you could have foam blocking drain and also need to find out how water got in there. check my posts.


----------



## panhandlekelly

Ok, this seems to have helped me.
While searching for a solution with the bait well pump and "air lock", I pulled the entire pump out of the boat, cleaned all of the factory caulking from the boat and pump. Then reinstalled the pump, rolling it on it's side as far as I could. It didn't look like it was going to be enough to do any good, but it did reduce the arch of the discharge hose a little. I took the boat out for some fishing and so far the pump has maintained prime and worked very well. I did notice the nut on the out side of the boat did not appear to be pulled up tight to the transom which may have contributed to some water entering the hull via the transome. While fishing with a cast net and getting water in the boat, I noticed no water in the hull when I opened the hull drain plug, but plenty coming out of the deck drain hole.
This may all be a coinsidence, but something changed. Hope this may help some of you.

Good fishing!


----------



## wag1551

*stiff steering*



joebucko said:


> Flatscatfl
> I did not consider the 4.2 NFB simply because the old helm was 3 turns lock to lock and the replacement was the same. I don't see any issue with using the 4.2 as the Teleflex site states that the helm will directly replace the Safe-T without dash modification. the spec on the 4.2 says it uses the same cable SSC62XX. My cable is a SSC6216 (16ft long). http://www.seastarsolutions.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/MS7Susa-NFB-4.2-Rotary-Single.pdf I assume yours is the same. You should be able to read this number off the steering cable on the stern.
> I believe the 4.2 is actually recommended for higher horsepower engines so it is geared higher to make turning easier...4.2 turns lock to lock.
> 
> I lucked into my helm and bezel at a pretty good price but if you need a longer cable then the kit containing everything would be the way to go. Personally the thought of fishing that steering cable from the stern into the console is terrifying. I had extreme difficulty just getting my transducer cable pulled and it was thin and flexible.


Hello, I have been reading the posts on this forum for the last couple of weeks and found the comments very helpful in understanding the fine points of the Mako 17. This is my first post and I share my experience both to provide information to others who may have the same problems and to solicit advice from those who have more knowledge and experience than I.

I recently purchased a brand new, but 2nd owner, Pro Skiff 16 with a 25 hp motor. I took it out a total of 3 times and really liked it but felt it was somewhat underpowered and, with more than 2 people in the boat it seemed crowded so I traded it for new Pro Skiff 17 with a 60 hp motor at Bass Pro Shop. I bought it on Saturday and took it out that evening. The power was great and it was a lot roomier than the 16 but the steering was very stiff. When I got back, I removed the cable end from the tube on the motor and lubricated it. When I took it out the next day, the steering was still very hard, like car power steering when the engine is not running plus there was 3"-4" of play in the steering wheel before the motor turned. I called BPS Monday and they contacted the factory who said they would send the plant manager to test drive the boat on Thursday. They wouldn't let me go along but when they were done they said the steering was normal. I complained and said it isn't safe and they said they would replace the helm with a 4.2 NFB. That took a week. Whey they were done, I tried the steering in their shop and found that it was no better. The BPS service manager said it was normal and that to make it any easier would require hydraulic steering for a considerable cost. I took it out and couldn't really tell any difference. It may have been worse. I tried trimming the engine to different angles and it did help a little but the steering at anything above idle was still so difficult that I had to stand, use both hands and lean to use my body weight to steer the boat. At low speeds I can sit but it still takes both hands and is difficult. I have tried several other boats and none were anything close to mine. A Whaler with a 90 HP Honda (mechanical steering) could be steered easily with one finger. 

I removed the ice chest and crawled under the console. I found that the spent travel tube had come loose from the housing and several inches of cable were exposed. The tube was up against the inside of the console causing it to bend about 3" at the end. I connected the tube to the housing and it immediately came loose again. The friction of the cable against the inside of the tube with the tube deflected is enough to pull it out. The loose end of the tube hitting the console is definitely contributing to the steering problem.

I disconnected the cable from the engine and moved the engine back and forth by hand. It was pretty difficult so I believe this is a significant part of the overall problem.

My questions to this forum are:

1. Is there a way to loosen the swivel on the engine itself?

2. Can the entire helm be rotated about 45 degrees to allow the spent travel tube to be straight?

3. Does anyone have experience with hydraulic steering?

Thank you for your assistance.


----------



## joebucko

WAG1551
Congratulations on the new boat and sorry to hear about your steering difficulties. I am very surprised that they changed the helm to the 4.2 as this is normally used on larger HP engines. It should have made your steering much easier. I have some questions.

1. You say the engine is hard to turn without having the steering link connected. The engine should have sufficient grease from the factory but may need additional grease through the zerks on the main shaft to loosen it a little more. Try manually moving it side to side to get the grease distributed.

2. With the steering link disconnected from the engine is the wheel easy to turn in both directions? There should be some initial resistance because it is a NFB(non-feedback) helm and requires slight pressure to overcome the built in clutches whenever you turn the wheel in either direction. After that it should move easily through the 4.2 turns it takes to move it from lock to lock. 

3. At speed is the helm harder to turn to Starboard than to Port, harder to turn to Port than Starboard or equally hard to turn in both directions? 

4. The helm can be turned/rotated to move the spent travel tube away from the wall of the console. It requires you to remove the steering wheel and bezel to access the three bolts that attach the helm to the bracket. On my SafeT ll nfb helm the spent tube curves gently against the side of the console and does not bind.


----------



## DCAVA

*Good reds*

[/ATTACH]Went out for an afternoon fish. Small rain clouds looming all afternoon, but managed to land 2 keeper reds. I caught a 28'' red and my oldest son caught his pb 26 1/2" red.


----------



## wag1551

*stiff steering*



joebucko said:


> WAG1551
> Congratulations on the new boat and sorry to hear about your steering difficulties. I am very surprised that they changed the helm to the 4.2 as this is normally used on larger HP engines. It should have made your steering much easier. I have some questions.
> 
> 1. You say the engine is hard to turn without having the steering link connected. The engine should have sufficient grease from the factory but may need additional grease through the zerks on the main shaft to loosen it a little more. Try manually moving it side to side to get the grease distributed.
> 
> 2. With the steering link disconnected from the engine is the wheel easy to turn in both directions? There should be some initial resistance because it is a NFB(non-feedback) helm and requires slight pressure to overcome the built in clutches whenever you turn the wheel in either direction. After that it should move easily through the 4.2 turns it takes to move it from lock to lock.
> 
> 3. At speed is the helm harder to turn to Starboard than to Port, harder to turn to Port than Starboard or equally hard to turn in both directions?
> 
> 4. The helm can be turned/rotated to move the spent travel tube away from the wall of the console. It requires you to remove the steering wheel and bezel to access the three bolts that attach the helm to the bracket. On my SafeT ll nfb helm the spent tube curves gently against the side of the console and does not bind.


jobucko

Thank you for your reply. To answer your questions,

1. I did add grease to the engine swivel shaft and manually moved the engine. I did not remove the cable from the tube but, based on the time that I did, I think the cable end may be bent causing it to bind in the tube. I will check that again.

2. With the link disconnected, it is still pretty difficult to move in both directions. I will have to do it again to see if it is more difficult in one direction or the other but I suspect that it will be worse in the direction that increases the length of the spent end since it is pushing the tube.

3. At speed, it may be a little more difficult to steer to port but there isn't much difference.

4. I will try rotating the helm. From what you said, I understand that this can be done without drilling more holes. On your helm, are the cable connections oriented horizontally (not angled at all)?

Thank you again for your help.


----------



## kenny

Take it to another mechanic instead of BP. It should turn easily with no play in the cable.


----------



## dbarham

Evans marine


----------



## frankcr

With the NFB connected, it should not allow the motor to be rotated manually as that is what NFB does. Is there a friction screw fitted on the engine which should be loosened?


----------



## joebucko

WAG1551
On my original helm and the new NFB helm the steering cable and spent tube are angled probably 30-45degrees. 

As FRANKCR stated with the steering cable attached it should not be possible to actually move the engine by hand. You must move the steering wheel due to the NFB helm.

To determine if you have a potentially bent tube on the steering cable I suggest you simply unhook the link to the engine then rotate the steering wheel through its entire travel in both directions. It should move easily in both directions with the same amount of force. If it takes significant effort with the engine disconnected then there is most likely a problem with the cable since this is a new helm.


----------



## frankcr

NFB systems work well, so if you are having problems, you probably have something in a bind. We had one on a 150 HP used offshore which really made handling the boat easy even when trimmed a little less than perfect, so the 60 HP should be a piece of cake.

As someone mentioned, it does take a little effort to begin to turn the wheel though.

Some engines have more than one position to attach the cable end to the engine, but I am not familiar with the Merc. The position affects the mechanical advantage in engines with two possible attachment points.


----------



## LitUp

*hydrofoil*

Has anyone tried putting on a hydrofoil, is it worth it or would you not be able to tell a diff on a boat this size?


----------



## LitUp

or maybe some trim tabs?


----------



## DCAVA

*Hydrofoil*



charliel2 said:


> I recently purchased and installed a Stingray Starfire hydrofoil. The Starfire is a no-drill model which I was hesitant of at first but it has stayed in place very well. I have the 17' Pro Skiff w/60hp and I would recommend the Starfire. I have been out on three trips so far: 1 full day and 2 half days. They're around $70 online. My local BPS didn't carry them in stock so I ordered online for $79.99. Currently, there is a deal for free shipping on orders more then $75.
> 
> Pros:
> -time to plane reduced by about half. With only two people the boat jumps on plane.
> -lower planing speed, I can hold plane at about 14mph if I remember correctly.
> -a little less porpoising.
> -ability to get on plane in shallower water becasue it helps raise the stern during acceleration.
> -ride seems more stable to me when people move around in the boat.
> -protection from someone jumping on top of the prop when they exit the boat. I have a 14 and 11 year old boys, nuff said.
> 
> Cons:
> -loss of about 1, maybe 2mph per GPS. 34mph WOT.
> -picks up some grass requiring a little bit of clean up at the end of the day.


LITUP
This fella installed a hydrofoil and states that it has helped him on his skiff. Haven't taken mine out since last Tuesday. We just had a tropical storm hit landfall this am in Mexico further south of us. Hopefully things clear up soon. I have been researching a hydrofoil and will install one soon. If u install 1 let us know the performance differences.


----------



## LitUp

ive been looking at smart tabs but i need to study it a little more before i make a decision, but once i do ill give yall an update


----------



## charliel2

*Hydrofoil*

I have been out two more times since I posted that. I think the foil is worth it. For me, the biggest pro is being able to get on plane in shallow water without dragging the skeg/prop. The foil just helps hold the stern of the boat up really well. While on plane you can really push the bow down into the water and make the boat ride a bit better in the chop. The one I installed (Stingray Starfire) is the no-drill model. I have used the Doel-fin previously and really like those as well but didn't like drilling into my lower unit. The Starfire shas held it's position very well though. I had 3 large adults in the boat last trip and barely had any prop slip. Easy install as well.


----------



## flchief

Just want to say thanks to those that contribute to this forum, I just bought a pro17 4 weeks ago and all tips and complaints helped me make my decsison. So far the only thing I am frustrated with is the livewell, the rest of the boat I am totally happy with. The thing drains faster than the pump can keep up with and as others have complained about the air pockets once you get up on plane-any real solutions out there? Frankly if I dont figure out a solution I probably will bust out my bait bucket and portable aerator and use that and just use the space for storage. Its a shame but just too much time mucking around with a well when I could be fishing.


----------



## DCAVA

X2; I use my livewell to keep the fish I catch fresh. Use ur baitbucket/aerator setup for live bait if u fish live bait and press on.


----------



## frankcr

I believe you folks are taking the bait tank problem as more of a problem than it is. It is a simple pumping problem which can be remedied if you forgo the centrifugal pump. Centrifugal pumps do not have the ability to lift liquid on the suction side or pump air. Once air bound, they will not self prime.


----------



## flchief

DCAVA said:


> X2; I use my livewell to keep the fish I catch fresh. Use ur baitbucket/aerator setup for live bait if u fish live bait and press on.


Oh I press on-I just dont have experiance with a livewell and may have the wrong impression on how it works, been a wade and kayak fisherman for years, think I found a way to make it work how I want so I wont be annoyed by it soon. Thanks for the reply it helps!
del


----------



## DCAVA

flchief said:


> Oh I press on-I just dont have experiance with a livewell and may have the wrong impression on how it works, been a wade and kayak fisherman for years, think I found a way to make it work how I want so I wont be annoyed by it soon. Thanks for the reply it helps!
> del


The livewell setup is a little screwy. Have a blast on the water with ur new skiff!!! They're cool rigs!!


----------



## LitUp

*Hydrofoil*

I just ordered the stingray starfire, i should get it in a couple days and ill let everyone now how great it is. On another note ive never had more than a cup of water drain from the hull but recently after a trip to port A it drained about a gallon out but i did have it in the water for two and a half days, kinda curious


----------



## charliel2

*Starfire*

LitUp - once you have the hydrofoil on you have to re-install the trim/torque tab thingy. Just tap it in gently with a hammer. It will slide back in place fairly easily with a tap or two...or three. The directions don't say anything about that part of it.


----------



## Techguy802

UPDATE ON WATER IN THE HULL ISSUE!!! 

Because of this thread my local Bass Pro listened to me and called Mako immediately before starting to try and solve the problem. The Gentleman (don't remember his name) listed on here at Mako has retired, but apparently he has passed some wisdom on to others. 

They are simply replacing my hull with a new one. He has already taken one from the stock and is starting to change the rigging over to my new hull! 

I also pointed out a few other issues like the bait well pump, etc. and they will be verifying that the latest fixes are applied to the new hull. 

It will take about a week and I will have my boat back! 

Thanks for the help everyone!!!


----------



## OldManOwen

Techguy802 said:


> UPDATE ON WATER IN THE HULL ISSUE!!!
> 
> Because of this thread my local Bass Pro listened to me and called Mako immediately before starting to try and solve the problem. The Gentleman (don't remember his name) listed on here at Mako has retired, but apparently he has passed some wisdom on to others.
> 
> They are simply replacing my hull with a new one. He has already taken one from the stock and is starting to change the rigging over to my new hull!
> 
> I also pointed out a few other issues like the bait well pump, etc. and they will be verifying that the latest fixes are applied to the new hull.
> 
> It will take about a week and I will have my boat back!
> 
> Thanks for the help everyone!!!


That is awesome news! I have never had more than a few ounces come out of mine but it's good to know Mako is standing behind their product. Keep us posted!

Nathan M Owen
SSGT USMC RET

Katie Couric while interviewing a Marine Sniper, asked:
"What do you feel when you shoot a terrorist?"
The Marine shrugged and replied: "Recoil."


----------



## LitUp

*starfire*

Took the boat out after intalling the starfire, it helps alot i get on plane at lower speeds and alot faster, i just cant beleive that thing says on there with no bolts


----------



## KeithD.

*Livewell Info*

Has anyone found a solution to the livewell issues. Tried to use mine this weekend and am having the same problems as everyone else. It overflows when it does decide to work. Doesn't hold the prime and drains way too slow from the overflow. I have a 2013 with the mods done to it but it still doesnt work.


----------



## joebucko

The answer to the overflow is to either run the pump manually on occasion to re-aerate or just reduce the input volume to match the outflow/drain by screwing in the nozzle a bit. Two of my friends' boats do the same thing and they aren't Pro Skiffs. 

As for losing prime I think frankcr has the correct diagnosis in previous posts. My boat is the oldest model and does not have any of the 'fixes' I have seem mentioned here. It occasionally loses prime but normally resumes pumping on its own or with my help by backing the boat up to force water into the pump.


----------



## KeithD.

Thanks Joe. Mine has all the mods as well and doesn't work. I too tried to back the boat several times and did not make a difference. I let it run to see if it would pick up the prime but it never did.


----------



## flchief

*Thanks*

Just wanted to say thanks to Joebucko-the trolling motor hints were great finally managed to get it put on this week and took it out today, sure made fishing a lot more enjoyable!


----------



## panhandlekelly

KeithD. said:


> Has anyone found a solution to the livewell issues. Tried to use mine this weekend and am having the same problems as everyone else. It overflows when it does decide to work. Doesn't hold the prime and drains way too slow from the overflow. I have a 2013 with the mods done to it but it still doesnt work.


As I stated in a previous post, I removed the baitwell pump and cleaned off all the sealant. Reinstalled and rotated the pump on it's side as for as it would go. This reduced the arch in the supply hose which seemed to have helped with the air lock problem. I have had the boat out on 2 occasions and it appeared to be working much better. I did not think to check to see if it worked while underway. I know this sounds crazy, but I figure if it works why question logic.


----------



## frankcr

Joebucko, thanks for the mention. I worked with industrial pumps from the early 60's until retiring in 2002, and the bait well pumps are not that hard to correct. I would observe that although many complain, the problem is not such that it would get much priority to correct for most people.

I have noticed in pictures of shallow running craft that the little inlet device is used fairly often. The chances are that they have centrifugal pumps on those boats, so the problem is common on more than the Mako. The biggest difference is that the Mako pump is actually mounted higher in the boats.

Just remember that a centrifugal pump has basically no ability to lift liquid to the inlet. It does have the advantage in that a valve on the discharge can restrict flow if the drain is inadequate.

They operated on my back, so I can walk again now. I plan to run the bottom off mine when they give me the okay  We have big plans for the Mako and kayaks when we get cut loose, but in the meantime, I have really enjoyed the posts you folks have made. Get out there and enjoy one of the best boat rigs available for the money.


----------



## DCAVA

Took mine out today, and as soon as we got to our spot and anchored, downpour!!! Had to haul it back in. Didn't fish, but got to run the skiff at full throttle for a while. 

Frankcr, have a quick recovery and get back on yhe water.


----------



## frankcr

Thank you, friend. After 5 months as basically an invalid, it is unreal to walk again. I am going nuts waiting for the go ahead from the doctor so we can get wet and maybe even see a real live fish.

I am excited about our Mako, as we only got to know it before we had to stay home. It is great for the waters we spend most of our time in. We bought the tiller version so we can fit it out for a variety of uses.

I really enjoy the posts you folks make, particularly with pictures. I have never had the chance to fish in your areas, but you have a gold mine there.


----------



## DCAVA

We got the goods in the bay!!

I will be out hopefully during the week on my day off, to hear some screaming drag!!


----------



## darrenlake

*Winterizing and water in hull update*

*Water in hull*
So I did call BPS about the water in the hull and they said that it can get caught in areas and not drain under normal incline, so I put it on a steep incline and got most of it out. I still don't understand how it got in, and they were not very helpful, yet.
I need to try plyers on the chrome plug, then maybe consider a crack in the rigging tube (from under console to rear). I'm thinking that a crack in the rigging tube may be my issue since the amount of water was not minor.

*Winterizing*
For those of us in the north, can anyone share suggestions for winterizing beyond the items in the manual? I notice that the spark plugs are not all easily accessible so I need to remove some stuff before I can remove them all (so I can spray oil onto cylinders as suggested for storage)


----------



## KeithD.

*Baitwell Info*

Panhandlekelley,
Do you have any pics of the mod you did with the pump? Thanks


----------



## panhandlekelly

KeithD. said:


> Panhandlekelley,
> Do you have any pics of the mod you did with the pump? Thanks


It doesn't look like much, but appeared to help the problem.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*Electrical switch info*

Boat switch (Master Aux)

Top-double black(-)
Center-red(+), violet/red(+)
Bottom-red/white(switched (+) for all aux powered switches)

Hello all. I thought I'd share this info with you. My master aux. power switch failed this past weekend forcing me to troubleshoot the problem. If this switch fails you on fishing day, have a double ended female spade jumper pre-made that you can use between constant (+) Red and switched (+) red/white. Cheers!


----------



## KeithD.

Thanks panhandlekelley. I contacted Bass Pro yesterday and will be dropping it off this week. I will let them know what you did and get them to do the same at the very least.


----------



## Winters97gt

darrenlake said:


> *Water in hull*
> So I did call BPS about the water in the hull and they said that it can get caught in areas and not drain under normal incline, so I put it on a steep incline and got most of it out. I still don't understand how it got in, and they were not very helpful, yet.
> I need to try plyers on the chrome plug, then maybe consider a crack in the rigging tube (from under console to rear). I'm thinking that a crack in the rigging tube may be my issue since the amount of water was not minor.
> 
> *Winterizing*
> For those of us in the north, can anyone share suggestions for winterizing beyond the items in the manual? I notice that the spark plugs are not all easily accessible so I need to remove some stuff before I can remove them all (so I can spray oil onto cylinders as suggested for storage)


My boat went in to Bass Pro 10 days ago in Katy, Texas. As many boats as they have seen, they told me that they have never seen this issue. I was like, really? It's all over the net. I explained to them how much water drained out of the boat, and then 400 miles later back in Houston, it poured out with the plug still open going up my parking garage at my high rise. Shocking that it didn't drain after a 6 hour drive back home going over overpasses, etc.

One of the gentleman said it could be coming from the front hook on the boat where the tailer hooks up. I just rolled my eyes. Same guy wrote down, "water in boat *haul* " 
on the work report, which was full on the sheet with stuff to fix.

I'll be real curious to see if they actually find it and fix it. I'm going to use this boat till December, then it's time to get back in a real boat to handle lots of saltwater fishing. I got what I paid for, and my family members are laughing at me saying "told you so" while we use their 10-15 year old boats with no issues. The only thing keeping me in this boat has been Doug at Tracker in Katy, who has serviced and fixed my previous issues very well.


----------



## frankcr

It is understandable that you are disappointed, but that dealer may not have seen your problem before. This is probably the most complete site on the Skiff, but there are not many who have problems with water in the hull posting. Mako replaced at least one or two hulls with no problems and would probably replace yours if necessary.

You would probably be happy with another boat design, so trading would probably be in your best interest. As far as people with no experience with the boats giving you a hard time, what do they base their ideas on and would it make a difference what model you had to them? There are Mako haters around with nothing to go on but what they heard from others. They would be hard pressed to purchase some other new boat at the price of a MAko.


----------



## rgourley11

*Red run hot in Galveston*

Big 55lb red caught and released.


----------



## KiteboarderDoug

Tracker was able to solve my livewell situation last week. It has run perfectly ever since. I too am still having leaking issues unless the really tighten the transom screw with a pair of pliers.(thanks Joe Bucko for that tip). But still feel I should be able to tighten by hand to keep the water out


----------



## DCAVA

rgourley11 said:


> big 55lb red caught and released.


 congrats!!!

Now that's a bull red!!


----------



## FlatsCatFL

rgourley11 said:


> Big 55lb red caught and released.


Wow, rgourley....that's a big one!!! Congrats!


----------



## FlatsCatFL

KiteboarderDoug said:


> Tracker was able to solve my livewell situation last week. It has run perfectly ever since. I too am still having leaking issues unless the really tighten the transom screw with a pair of pliers.(thanks Joe Bucko for that tip). But still feel I should be able to tighten by hand to keep the water out


KiteboarderDoug, what did Tracker do to improve your livewell issue?


----------



## frankcr

Good golley, what a red  You were probably as tired as it was by the time you boated it.

If you cannot tighten the drain plug enough without tools, go for a larger cross section O-ring. Just make sure the plug stays in place with the O-ring in place and that it does not ride up on the shoulder of the plug. That is pretty much a static seal with no pressure involved.


----------



## panhandlekelly

KiteboarderDoug said:


> Tracker was able to solve my livewell situation last week. It has run perfectly ever since. I too am still having leaking issues unless the really tighten the transom screw with a pair of pliers.(thanks Joe Bucko for that tip). But still feel I should be able to tighten by hand to keep the water out


What did Tracker do to resolve your livewell issue?


----------



## panhandlekelly

rgourley11 said:


> Big 55lb red caught and released.


Some have all the luck!  Great catch


----------



## frankcr

Folks keep trying to ignore the laws of physics and make the baitwell pump do things which require a change in physics. Ain't gonna happen fellows.

Water will seek its own level, so the centrifugal pump has to be mounted below the surface of the water in order to keep a prime. Then the air in the casing has to be vented to atmosphere until the casing and inlet line are flooded. That is done by fixing a vent line with a valve at the high side of the impeller casing in a pump or a separate line piped into the discharge at the high point of the piping if that allows the liquid level to immerse the casing and impeller. You open the vent line until all air is expelled and the suction side of the pump and impeller are clear of air. You then close the valve in the vent line and start the pump. It would be very difficult to attach the vent line to the casing in a centrifugal baitwell pump.

Once the pump is running, it will develop a slight amount of lift and continue to run until a vacuum is formed on the suction side of the pump. You calculate the liquid pressure available to the impeller using absolute pressure, and there is a fixed amount of absolute pressure necessary in order not to break the suction side fluid flow.

People still think a small amount of messing with the piping on the Mako will remedy the situation which is wistful thinking. Physics will get you every time you try to outfox it.

As an aside, I have seen some very large boiler feed pumps burn up the mechanical seals or packing in a short time because someone did not manually prime the pump properly before startup. I understand we are not dealing with engineers and it is difficult to really explain the problem to others, but believe me, there is a hydraulic problem if you cannot keep liquid available to the impeller of the pumps.


----------



## KiteboarderDoug

It was Tracker Marine in Bradenton. They said it was a "vent modification". I didn't ask but should have asked what that entailed. All I know is before, I had to give my livewell a BJ after every time I moved and afterward the mod my boat didn't receive any love.. The guys in Bradenton have been very patient and helpful with me.


----------



## KeithD.

KiteboarderDoug
If it is not too much trouble maybe you could ask them to tell you about the mod and post it here. It would greatly help alot of us. Thanks


----------



## frankcr

If the boat is at rest, the water level at the transom will be the same as in the pump if the air is allowed to vent from the pump. The pump should run fine under that condition if the pump is mounted low enough.

If the discharge line has a pocket filled with water, it will not self prime as air in the casing will not have a way to escape and be replaced by water. The discharge line should not be run downward but should be inclined so that no water may be trapped in the line and air can flow out of the pump through the discharge line.

Once on plane, the inlet is out of the water and the pump will lose prime. You could fit one of those transom mounted scoops to maintain water flow at speed, but it will allow a larger volume of air to be trapped in the pump which will need to be vented before the pump will pump liquid.

After seeing so many with pumping problems, it got my interest up on the subject. A lot of people are disappointed that the systems don't work properly when they take ownership of the boats, and certainly no one could blame them for that.

I hope they have your boat piped in such a way as to provide for air to be vented properly. I would be interested to hear how they approached the situation.


----------



## KiteboarderDoug

*Live Welll*

I will see what I can find out and get back to you. If you want to call the service department yourself and talk to them their number is 941- 756-1896.


----------



## charliel2

*Livewell*

Every owner will be waiting to hear how the Bradenton BPS finally resolved the livewell issue.


----------



## KeithD.

I am going to have my bass pro call them as well and get the heads up.


----------



## KiteboarderDoug

I just called the service department and the service manager will call me with some info.


----------



## KiteboarderDoug

*Live Well*

The answer from the Bradenton store is as follows "We installed a 1/4" vent into the output line. This allows for the system to not airlock"..


----------



## panhandlekelly

KiteboarderDoug said:


> The answer from the Bradenton store is as follows "We installed a 1/4" vent into the output line. This allows for the system to not airlock"..


Could you post a picture?


----------



## frankcr

Venting is the key to allow water to reach the proper level when at rest. A small amount of water will flow through the vent when the pump is working, so it would be interesting to see how they terminate the line. Does it run over the transom? 

Please post pictures, as my curiosity is in high gear.


----------



## KeithD.

I have my dealer contacting them as well. I will let you know what I find out as well. I agree a picture would be great if possible of the mod. Thanks in advance.


----------



## KiteboarderDoug

i am in Atlanta on business but will be happy to post a picture when I get back home. Unfortunately that will not be until the 19th.


----------



## LitUp

*water in hull*

Ok guys i wanted to get yalls opinion, i went to the lake for about 4 hours the other day and no water in the hull at all, but i did not use my baitwell at all, earlier i went to the lake for six hours and did use my bait well and drained about a half gallon or so out, ive never had a boat with a live well so im not sure how to fix this business.


----------



## joebucko

LitUp,
If your water is coming from your baitwell then there is a leak in either/both the fill hose or the drain hose. I think I would test this on dry land by putting a water hose on the pickup end, filling the baitwell and letting it run for a while to see if you get any water coming out of the hull. Don't let the baitwell overflow so that you are sure you are only testing the hoses.


----------



## FlyItAll

*Livewell leaks*

Lit up,
When I first got my 17' Pro Skiff, I noticed water under the console when I filled my live well. Water under the console can travel into the rigging hole under the console. The rigging hole "boot" was not caulked to the floor of my boat and none of the screws securing the boot were caulked.
My live well "leak" was coming from the drain fitting on the bottom of the live well. I tightened the hose clamp on the drain fitting but, I couldn't reach the drain fitting nut to tighten it. So I caulked around the drain fitting on the inside of the live well with 5200. Then I caulked under the rigging hole boot and caulked all of the screws going thru the floor under the console. This was all I could think of to prevent any water from going down the rigging hole or going thru the liner.
The next time out I filled the live well and I had no water under the console all day.
After doing this and tightening my hull drain plug with a wrench, I have very little water come out of the hull at the end of the day. I still intend to thoroughly investigate/reseal all of the fittings going thru the transom, but I haven't gotten around to that yet. I believe there should be NO water in the hull under normal circumstances!


----------



## joebucko

Barring a hole in the hull the only water that should be able get into the hull would be water from taking a wave over the bow/side or heavy rain sufficient to fill the bilge area high enough to overflow into the rigging tube. Then the rigging tube would have to have a crack or hole in it. This assumes that the ends of the rigging tube are actually sealed. Even if water got under the console and drained into the rigging tube it should exit at the bilge. Double checking or re-sealing around both ends of the tube should eliminate the possibility of water from the tube unless it is cracked. 

I got this tip from another ProSkiff owner and as a precaution I took the extra step of silicone caulking completely around the base of my console where it meets the floor in an attempt to keep any deck water from running under the console. 

If the rigging tube is sealed and you are sure you have not gotten any water in the boat that could enter the rigging tube and there is still water in the hull then the most likely source is the 'O' ring on the drain plug or an improperly sealed through hull fitting.

These are pretty simple boats and there are a finite number of places where water can get in. Testing and eliminating each possibility should solve the problem.


----------



## LitUp

*hull water*

thanks for the tips guys, just glad i have a place to ask these types of questions and get solid feedback


----------



## BKT

I've been wanting a boat for awhile now and glad I came across this thread. When I read the first post, I was "hey this sounds just like me!"

I started out looking at used flatbottoms 1648's & 1654's with a 25-30hp motor then the wife suggested new (I thought she gotten sick but I shall take full advantage of it LOL).

So I stopped by a few local dealerships just getting a feel of the prices... I kinda already had my mind made up of what I wanted but THEN we came down to SPI (still here) and stopped in Harlingen at the BPS. Looked at boats for 4hrs solid. Made some calls to my friend that's boat savvy and he suggested something in the lines of the Pro Team 175TF. Man that's a nice looking boat but still wasn't like "YEAH!!" Then the wife and I go back outside and look at the Sportsman 1654... Torn I was... I like both and could use both. 

Finally talked to a salesman about the 175TF. Pretty much had me sold but something in my mind just didn't say this is the one. We talked and talked and talked. Finally he asked if I looked at that mako 17' pro skiff. I had no clue what it was. When we got to it, I was thinking it looked like a bathtub with a couple of controls but the more I looked and the more he talked about it... Man talking about something growing on ya fast!! I kinda fell in love...

Me being me got on the computer to do a little research as soon as we got to the hotel and here I am. What a thread. I still have to search out some terms used in boats cause I'm boat ignorant but all in all this Mako boat should suit me and my family to a "T".

Thanks for the info guys


----------



## joebucko

Welcome BKT
I bought my Pro17 CC skiff to fish from and it is awesome. For it's size it the most stable fishing platform I have ever been on and it can take heavy chop like a champ while keeping you bone dry. It is VERY basic like the only gauge on the boat is the Tachometer. 

If you have not already done so you might want to spend an hour or so and read through this thread from the beginning. You will come away with a very good idea of what people are using it for and what they like and dislike.

Good luck


----------



## MakoSkiff

BKT said:


> I've been wanting a boat for awhile now and glad I came across this thread. When I read the first post, I was "hey this sounds just like me!"
> 
> I started out looking at used flatbottoms 1648's & 1654's with a 25-30hp motor then the wife suggested new (I thought she gotten sick but I shall take full advantage of it LOL).
> 
> So I stopped by a few local dealerships just getting a feel of the prices... I kinda already had my mind made up of what I wanted but THEN we came down to SPI (still here) and stopped in Harlingen at the BPS. Looked at boats for 4hrs solid. Made some calls to my friend that's boat savvy and he suggested something in the lines of the Pro Team 175TF. Man that's a nice looking boat but still wasn't like "YEAH!!" Then the wife and I go back outside and look at the Sportsman 1654... Torn I was... I like both and could use both.
> 
> Finally talked to a salesman about the 175TF. Pretty much had me sold but something in my mind just didn't say this is the one. We talked and talked and talked. Finally he asked if I looked at that mako 17' pro skiff. I had no clue what it was. When we got to it, I was thinking it looked like a bathtub with a couple of controls but the more I looked and the more he talked about it... Man talking about something growing on ya fast!! I kinda fell in love...
> 
> Me being me got on the computer to do a little research as soon as we got to the hotel and here I am. What a thread. I still have to search out some terms used in boats cause I'm boat ignorant but all in all this Mako boat should suit me and my family to a "T".
> 
> Thanks for the info guys


If i were you and seriously considering a mako, i would fore go the 17 and jump to the 18lts. much better boat. the proskiff 17 has its designs flaws such as the bilge area which is suppose to be the lowest point in the boat so that water gets pumped out. Instead there is a cavity under the bilge area, if look you will see a stainless steel lower drain for this area on the transom. if water gets into the hull the only way to drain it, is by pulling the boat out the water, Can't be drained while under way. Cracked rigging tube which allows water to get into inner hull. The Hull and Liner are bonded/sealed pretty poorly to each other. Take a closer look under the Gunnels and you'll get an idea. they just put both sections together and pop rivets in through the fiberglass cracking it a bit to join both hull and liner. doesn't look like they apply any sealant. To be Honest tracker marine isn't that great to deal with as far as customer service goes. they just bought mako for the name. Makos used to built in Miami now there built up in either n.carolina or missouri.Check out Classicmako.com to see what those guys have to say about the newer tracker era makos. The 60hp 4 stroke is made in China, yes China. mine has been pretty reiliable, though. trailer is pretty good crappy automotive grade wiring and running lights thats corrode easliy in saltwater, but easy fix though.. getting any help from rolco(trailer manuf.) aint no peace of cake. the vault hubs are great, read up more on vault hubs from UFP products. no matter how long the warranty is, it aint no good if they don't honor it or they can't figure/ or don't want to figure out whats wrong and your 1-2 months without a boat while they d**k you around. as joebucko said read through all these pages.


----------



## BKT

joebucko said:


> Welcome BKT
> I bought my Pro17 CC skiff to fish from and it is awesome. For it's size it the most stable fishing platform I have ever been on and it can take heavy chop like a champ while keeping you bone dry. It is VERY basic like the only gauge on the boat is the Tachometer.
> 
> If you have not already done so you might want to spend an hour or so and read through this thread from the beginning. You will come away with a very good idea of what people are using it for and what they like and dislike.
> 
> Good luck


I read through about 25 pages of this thread then started jumping 5-6 pages at a time. Basic is right where I need to keep it. Most of the time its gonna be just me. Next would be the wife and I. Then a toss up between me, wife and one of our sons (15-17 years old) and me and the two boys.



MakoSkiff said:


> If i were you and seriously considering a mako, i would fore go the 17 and jump to the 18lts. much better boat. the proskiff 17 has its designs flaws such as the bilge area which is suppose to be the lowest point in the boat so that water gets pumped out. Instead there is a cavity under the bilge area, if look you will see a stainless steel lower drain for this area on the transom. if water gets into the hull the only way to drain it, is by pulling the boat out the water, Can't be drained while under way. Cracked rigging tube which allows water to get into inner hull. The Hull and Liner are bonded/sealed pretty poorly to each other. Take a closer look under the Gunnels and you'll get an idea. they just put both sections together and pop rivets in through the fiberglass cracking it a bit to join both hull and liner. doesn't look like they apply any sealant. To be Honest tracker marine isn't that great to deal with as far as customer service goes. they just bought mako for the name. Makos used to built in Miami now there built up in either n.carolina or missouri.Check out Classicmako.com to see what those guys have to say about the newer tracker era makos. The 60hp 4 stroke is made in China, yes China. mine has been pretty reiliable, though. trailer is pretty good crappy automotive grade wiring and running lights thats corrode easliy in saltwater, but easy fix though.. getting any help from rolco(trailer manuf.) aint no peace of cake. the vault hubs are great, read up more on vault hubs from UFP products. no matter how long the warranty is, it aint no good if they don't honor it or they can't figure/ or don't want to figure out whats wrong and your 1-2 months without a boat while they d**k you around. as joebucko said read through all these pages.


The dealer I'm headed to this Friday has a 18lts but I'm thinking that is outside my price range. After all I started out looking at 1648's with a 15-20 HP tiller motor.

The Mako skiff is not a done deal by any means but I think it comes closer to what style/type of boat I'd like to own. I'm open to suggestions on different brands in that style so if there's something out there just let me know cause I not in a hurry to buy but i sure want it bad!!!!


----------



## FlyItAll

*Basic Boat*

BKT,
This boat has what you need to get out on the water, but no extras, and it is exactly what I wanted. For me, this is a stable fishing platform with the highest person capacity I have ever seen for its size. When I fish with my two brothers(big boys) we are not over capacity. When the whole family is going with grandson, I pull off my trolling motor and throw in two beanbag chairs and we are still not over capacity. It fits in my garage. It is the most affordable boat of its type and size that I saw in a couple years of looking. No one boat is best for everything, you need to consider how you will use it. This one works well for me!


----------



## frankcr

Don't be overly influenced by a user with buyers remorse. The hull design works very well in chop and has been a good choice for our family.

As far as the ClassicMako folks go, they have a problem with any of the newer Makos due to several years when the quality of the brand went south. Bass Pro bought them out and is coming out with new models such as the Skiff. You will probably never find one of them who has any experience with the Pro Skiff, but they discuss it anyway similar to an old lady gossiping.

Most owners find the boats to be a good choice for them and enjoy them as much as we do. Look at the Skiff as an upgraded Carolina Skiff suited for skiff duty. It is not an open ocean craft and is not meant for that service.


----------



## BKT

The one I'm looking at tomorrow has a 30hp mota... Is it/would it be worth the extra cost to have a 60hp put on?


----------



## DCAVA

bkt said:


> the one i'm looking at tomorrow has a 30hp mota... Is it/would it be worth the extra cost to have a 60hp put on?


 get the 60hp mercury, especially if u are gonna use in saltwater.


----------



## frankcr

We have the tiller model with the 30 HP which is great for our use. We cruise at about 20-22 MPH with two or three on board which works well for us and fit out the boat for whatever our plans are for the day. We installed a bimimi top and use yacht chairs at times when fishing. The large flat floor enables you to fit out the boat in different ways without a consul getting in the way.

It handles river chop very well and generally provides a dry ride.

They normally come with the 9.5 x 11" prop, but we have the 9.75 x 9.5" fitted which handles extra weight in the boat (up to five of us). It will run at 23-25 MPH and 5900-6000 RPM with three on board. I bought a 9.5 x 11" for use with just my wife and I. We do not use gas containing alcohol in the motor. 

Stick to the Mercury props. We tried a Michigan Wheel which gets great gas mileage, but loves to cavitate. There is a mismatch in the hub diameter vs the gearbox diameter.

When loading the boat, pay attention to the suggested seating as posted on the hull with a sticker. Too much bow weight can result in cavitation.

If you are getting the version with the steering consul, you probably want the larger motor rather than the 30 HP. At least one fellow has the 40 HP, but most seem to go for the 60 HP. It is a matter of personal expectations.

Others can fill you in on performance of the larger motors, but it appears the 40 will provide something like 28+ MPH and the 60 HP something like 34 MPH.


----------



## BKT

So I pulled into the BPS in Harlingen and someone was dropping off a 17' pro skiff looked like driving a red Ford. Anyone here?


----------



## LagunaMadreFishing

*Arroyo City Boat Ramps*

Does anyone here know of any other public boat ramps in Arroyo City? Not sure if there are any out there now that the Thomae County Park is closed.


----------



## MakoSkiff

60 hp, no doubt. had two people, cooler, trolling motor and 2 full tanks of gas + gear and it moved it no problem.


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## frankcr

Just got back from Bass Pro, and they are listening to the bait well pump problem. The boat I saw had the pump mounted on the starboard side about inline with the cockpit drain. It had one of the EZ Pickups mounted on the inlet, but I did not see if there was any kind of vent on the system.


----------



## MakoSkiff

Thats the fix which they used on the 2013s only and retrofitted some 2012s like mine which hasn't worked too well. We need to see the 2014s, those should have the vent line. It would be good if they would install a seperate line form the bilge pump going into the cavity where the lower drain is, so that it can be pump dry also. It wouldn't surprise if they would do something like that in the future. that system has a technical name, but i can't recall what it is.


----------



## frankcr

I believe you are speaking of a bypass line, and yes, it would allow venting of the pump. If very small tubing were run from the discharge of the pump back over the transom down to the top of the EZ fitting, air should be vented from the pump until the EZ fitting was flooded. As soon as the water filled the fitting up to the tubing connection, no more air would flow. 

It has been too long since I balanced water flow from pumps for me to even attempt the necessary calculations. I really need to give this more thought before actually recommending this. I am not recommending this at this time.

I am really looking forward to seeing how the system is piped on the boat which is said to have had the system improved.


----------



## joebucko

I decided to install a manual jack plate on my Pro17 and needed a safe and easy way to hang the motor without having to disconnect any cables so I came up with this. All I used was my Little Giant Ladder, a short piece of chain and the trailer. My Mercury 60 hp 4stroke only weighs 240lbs and has a built in lifting ring so I knew the ladder would support it safely. 
-Chock the trailer securely
-lower the tongue jack all the way down(raising the engine/transom to max height)
-remove the cowling, position the ladder squarely over the engine and attach the chain so that it is fairly tight removing as much slack as practical
-slowly raise the trailer tongue(lowers the transom) until the full weight of the motor is on the chain. 
I removed the two bottom transom bolts and just loosened the 2 top bolts enough to work the sealant free. I wanted to make sure the entire weight of the motor was completely transferred to the ladder before disconnecting completely.
When the top bolts were removed the engine swings away from the transom just enough. This method could also be used to just raise or lower the engine if you wanted to change mounting holes.


----------



## frankcr

Joebucko, that is one slick trick. I have considered making a tripod for that use, and now I feel like a nut. You method is simple and easy, makes me wonder why I did not think of doing that.


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## MakoSkiff

What jackplate did you go with? CMC? how come not hydraulic? The ones mad by CMC and Atlas don't have pump mounted inside the boat. The Atlas is a little pricey. I myself am torn between the CMC & Atlas. CMC being cheaper. Check em out, they're sweet. Ohh they also the Atlas min jacker which fits these skiff nicely.

http://www.thmarine.com/products/Ou...aulic-Jack-Plates/ATLAS-hydraulic-jack-plates

http://www.cmcmarineproducts.com/

both are owned by TH Marine

Post more pics


----------



## joebucko

I installed a manual Rapid Jack Jackplate. I just did not want to shell out the money for a hydraulic or electric jack plate. My main objective is to try and get as much top end speed out of my ProSkiff as I can. I raised the motor manually one time but that is a real PITA and you are limited to 3/4" height adjustments so an easily adjustable manual seemed like a good compromise. 

Some combination of engine height, propeller and possibly anti-ventilation plate will make this boat run as fast as it is capable of going. I will use my Mercury aluminum propeller to experiment with the jackplate settings and get comfortable with it before starting my search for the right stainless steel propeller. 

I don't know if I am right but with one passenger I feel like the Pro 17 is capable of running about 40 mph.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

joebucko, you are definitely the 'MacGyver' on this site. Every one of your shared mods has been practical, useful and inexpensive!! And this one is no exception. 

I also have a Little Giant and a manual CMC-65 (5.5" setback) in house, but by the looks of your demo, my LG is going to be a bit short. Some cinder blocks under the ladder feet should do the trick. I don't think 240 lbs. would be to much for the CB, do you?

Thanks again for sharing. I REALLY look forward to reading about your new setup. Cheers!


----------



## FlyItAll

Clever idea JoeB! I'll be interested to see if you can gain any more speed.
Have any of you guys found a good way to make sure the bow stop stays in contact with the boat when you pull the boat out of the water? I winch the boat up extremely tight with the trailer in pretty deep and sometimes pull the trailer out a few more feet and retighten the winch. I am compressing the bow roller at this point and don't feel like I should put on any more pressure. Yet, I nearly always end up with a little space between the bow and the roller when I pull out onto level ground. My previous deep V stayed tight.


----------



## joebucko

I don't know what size LGiant you have but if it won't extend high enough to straddle the motor a cinderblock positioned squarely under each foot of the ladder should be strong enough to support the weight. You need enough room to comfortably work on each side of the motor mount whether you are installing a Jackplate or simply raising the motor a hole or two.


----------



## frankcr

FlyItAll, do you use a steep ramp? Sounds like the boat is floating over the rear bunkers when you first winch it in. As the hull settles on the bunks to the final position, the bow raises up slightly.


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## panhandlekelly

Sounds as if FlyItAll has the same problem I had. The boat had to be in deep water to load because the boat did not slide very well on the carpeted bunks. With the suggestion of a mechanic at BPS, I sprayed the carpet with a quality silicon spray. Now I no longer need to be so deep in the water to load/unload. The first time iI applied the silicon, I had just unloaded the boat and applied a good coat of silicon, then applied the rest of the can when I returned to load up. The carpet was wet, but still helped a lot. A couple of weeks ago I unloaded during a camping trip and left the boat in the water over night. I sprayed the bunks at the end of the first day to dry carpet and reapplied the next morning after the sun was up good. This process has really worked well for me. Give it a try.


----------



## FlyItAll

Thanks for the suggestion PHKelly, I'll try that. Do you know how long the spray will last on the bunks? I've also seen two types of silicone infused plastic strips which can be screwed to the bunks and should do the same thing. Anyone have experience of one method over another?


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## charliel2

*Bunk Slides*

I haven't installed these on my current trailer but they worked nicely on my last trailer: http://www.basspro.com/Bunk-Slick-Boat-Trailer-GlideOns/product/1111100500571/


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## joebucko

*Stainless Steel Propeller*

I am probably going to upgrade to a 3 blade stainless steel propeller after I finish my jackplate experiments. So far I have raised the engine about three inches above the original factory installed 2nd hole mounting. Its probably not quite 3" since there is a 4' set back on the plate but it pretty close. I am running a Mercury BlackMax 14"pitch aluminum propeller at 5700rpm WOT and get no cavitation or ventilation so far. I will continue to raise it until it begins to blows out. It was to rough last week to video but I hope to film the cavitation plate this week to see if it is running on the surface if not it should be very close.

I suspect the 60hp Mercury won't efficiently turn a 15" pitch prop but thought I'd ask you guys if anybody is running a 15"pitch and if so what kind of performance are you getting?

What about 14"pitch stainless 3 blades. What are your numbers if you please.


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## MakoSkiff

try the mercury prop selector on there website and play with numbers a bit and see. i think the tophy plus is a nice prop. 4 blade stainless.


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## FlyItAll

*Bunk Slides and Trailer Lights?*

I went to the lake today and installed some Bunk Slides (from Cabelas). I used the 10"x3" and applied them 12" apart to each of the 4 bunks. I only did the front half of the bunks since I like the idea of the boat sitting snug when towing and wanted the rear of the boat on carpet. I am in freshwater and not too concerned about getting the trailer wet. This worked just as I hoped. The rear of the trailer is about 4-6" more shallow than before and I can snug the boat up without excessive pressure on the winch. Thanks for your suggestions on this!

Another thing I am wondering about when launching is submerging the trailer lights. Thirty years ago, you had to remember to disconnect your trailer lights when launching or the water would burn out the hot bulbs. I know some newer trailers seal the lights to prevent this and LED lights probably wouldn't be bothered, but I don't know if this Rolco trailer has either. Are you guys getting away with submerging the trailer lights while they are plugged in?


----------



## KiteboarderDoug

*Trailer Lights*

I was told by my dealer that the lights are sealed so I am not unhooking..


----------



## joebucko

*Trailer lights*

My trailer lights are definitely NOT sealed. I blew 2 tail lights because I did not disconnect prior to launching so now I unhook the electric each time. No blown bulbs since I have been doing that.


----------



## texas skiffaroo

Installed bunk slips from Bass Pro 4" apart front to back on all four bunks and now I can launch on ramps where I would have to rock it off.
Until you get them: Found rocking and pushing worked better than just pushing.
Also found it easier when I took the transom straps off.
Got to looking at some bass boats at the ramps with bigger motors a more weight than we have and noticed their boats were sitting lower than the top of the fenders than ours , by quite a few inches.
If you have the money that's another solution . Custom trailer.
Bass Pro made a good point of why rollers won't work, because all the weight would be on the two keels and the fiber glass would crack.
The skiff sitting lower on the trailer would be a good change for Mako to recommend to the trailer manufacturer.


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## frankcr

Joebucko, were those the led's? If so, I need to change my launching procedure.


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## joebucko

frankcr
My trailer did not have LEDs just traditional filament type bulbs. I think the thermal shock of the hot bulbs hitting the cooler water just cracks the bulbs.


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## frankcr

Thank you, joebucko; I will check mine out to see what they are.


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## Winters97gt

Boats going in for the fourth time to fix all the trailer lights. Still taking water in the hull, which tracker said they would check and didn't get it out on the water so I couldn't use my aerator after another 800 mile round trip after the so called fixes. Bilge is shot, again too. I did manage to get most of the water out of the inside of the boat by removing the drain plug, getting up to about 10mph with the nose pointed up and driving for about 5-10 minutes, cutting the motor and quickly putting it back in. Not very happy with a few month old boat getting caught in an open bay with 30mph winds, with no bilge and a hull that still takes in water. Now, I have a 400 mile drive back home with trailer lights not working and a break line that corroded off. My rear deck that covers the battery, tank, pumps is also coming apart and bounces in slight chop. That's going to have to be repaired. 

Also, to any potential Mako buyer. My trailer tires were not balanced. Nobody at Tracker that shipped the boat, or the guys where I bought thought to check that. 2000 miles later, I just spent $200 in a set of new tires balanced. Unreal for a brand new boat and trailer.


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## Winters97gt

BTW, on the topic of bulbs. My first one went out 10 miles down the road after buying the boat. 3 before it ever hit the water.


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## frankcr

Mention of unbalanced trailer tires rings a bell. There is a school of thought that trailer tires do not need to be balanced which is purely ridiculous. I believe both of the camping trailers we bought came without the tires being balanced which cost us money. I need to check our tires and have them balanced if they have not been.


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## reel legs

Guys, I am selling my 2012 Mako Pro Skiff 17 because my wife and I just had a baby girl!! ...and it's time to trade in the big boy toys for dolls for the little one. 60 Hp Merc with atlas micro jack and SE sport hydrofoil and SS prop. There are some modifications I have made for bait fishing. I will wash the boat and add pics this weekend! Also, the outboard has been logged and maintained by Bass Pro in Harlingen, Tx for the first 30 hr run. Please text if interested. 956-460-0449


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## Winters97gt

Unreal. Always nice seeing this on a new boat which was supposed to be fixed. Boat's a POS


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## DCAVA

winters97gt said:


> unreal. Always nice seeing this on a new boat which was supposed to be fixed. Boat's a pos


 that's crazy bro....you got a lemon!!


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## frankcr

Someone needs to get off the stick and remedy that ASAP. If your shop cannot give you immediate relief, contact their headquarters and send them a copy of the video.


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## joebucko

Winters97gt
That really stinks. There appears to be something seriously wrong with your rig. How long did you have the boat in the water to accumulate that amount of water in the lower hull?


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## KeithD.

Winters97gt
I would say you got a big problem. I would contact Mako directly if you cant get your BPS to do anything. How you get it worked out.


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## texas skiffaroo

video wouldn't come up for me. Said not available.
Curious if you are talking about a 17' mako pro skiff.
What happened?


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## rgourley11

*water*



Winters97gt said:


> Unreal. Always nice seeing this on a new boat which was supposed to be fixed. Boat's a POS


Man that is some water. I get maybe 2 tablespoon if that after 8 hours on the water. Got caught in a very heavy rain storm 45 minute down pour the last week and still only had less then a 1/4 cup of water. You deafeningly got something wrong somewhere.


----------



## Winters97gt

DCAVA said:


> that's crazy bro....you got a lemon!!





frankcr said:


> Someone needs to get off the stick and remedy that ASAP. If your shop cannot give you immediate relief, contact their headquarters and send them a copy of the video.





joebucko said:


> Winters97gt
> That really stinks. There appears to be something seriously wrong with your rig. How long did you have the boat in the water to accumulate that amount of water in the lower hull?





KeithD. said:


> Winters97gt
> I would say you got a big problem. I would contact Mako directly if you cant get your BPS to do anything. How you get it worked out.





rgourley11 said:


> Man that is some water. I get maybe 2 tablespoon if that after 8 hours on the water. Got caught in a very heavy rain storm 45 minute down pour the last week and still only had less then a 1/4 cup of water. You deafeningly got something wrong somewhere.


Thanks guys. I appreciate your concern and replies.

Before any bashing, I must say that I absolutely love some of the features of this boat. It is incredibly easy to launch, pull with my 4 runner, and I love the fuel burn. On top of that, the boat is a tremendous platform to fish out of with no center console bars, etc. We can actually truely fish 3 people out of this boat similar to 19-21 foot boats with a raised console(grab bars,etc). The boat rides just about like other 17 foot skiffs, older shallow Texas boats. Slightly better perhaps, but we all know what type of chop we can ride in, and we all will get wet in this boat in bay chop. It's expected though, and nothing I will complain about.

I must say, I absolutely love this little boat for fishing. I love driving it compared to what I grew up on and what my family members still own, Exploreres, Shallow Sports, Carolina skiffs, and a couple others.

Bass Pro has done a decent job temporary fixing the issues. While I dogged on the issues that I've had with the boat, Bass Pro has seemed up to the task of fixing small issues like boat lights, trailer lights, etc. They even were up front the first trip back after I needed a fuel pump, since I piece of the original pump was not installed. The exact words from the tracker marine tech at BPS was"can't believe it even ran".

While frustrated here, I have always been "yes sir", " thank you" etc to them for fixing the problems.

On Thursday heading home from SPI, I actually politely voiced my exact opinion to Doug at tracker marine. I expressed how upset I was with the malfunctions in the boat and continual water in the hull. I also went to pick up the boat last week(3 hour roundtrip), and when I got there, the trailer lights were out along with another issue on the boat. This caused a cancelation of my family trip to SPI that day. It's hard enough to get the family to do a weekend 800 mile trip. The day I went to pick up the boat, the bilge was not working and I didn't want to use to aerator with the past experiences.

To answer some of your exact questions of the last event. The boat was fished in for 10 hours on October 30 by myself. I docked the boat in port Isabel that night, went back to SPI and picked the boat up the next morning after securely docking it. I didn't want to load it at night with no lights. The boat was not used on the 31st, except for a 25 yard drive to the ramp from my slip.

After discussing the issue with my old man, many Texas Fishing Guides, 2 who have personally seen the boat and the issues in person, I have decided I'm going strait to Tracker Marine for a new hull. My case will border on the "Lemon Law", and hopefully the willingness for Tracker Marine to replace my hull. The salinity and the amount of water in my hull multiple times is not my fault. I've had the water soak my hull my a full week at the slip in SPI without me knowing till the boat was out of the water. Again, I didn't know until the boat was pulled.

I also have voice recordings which I will not disclose at this point. It's not a gotcha moment, since BPS, Tracker Marine, etc has not fixed what they said they would. It's simply for proof of their voices stating things that weren't fixed, and I won't disclose now might later if this is not resolved correctly. I honestly feel that the hull is toast in a few years with that much salt. The trailer is completely fine if completly rewired, (besides them not correctly balancing the tires which lasted 2000 miles on just cost me 200bucks).

Also, here is the rear deck coming apart. I'm not pulling up on it hard, just a few pounds of force. It slams up and down in slight chop and will only get worse.



I don't look to continuely bash this boat. I like it. I want this boat, but with a wiring hull that won't sink me in the bay.


----------



## joebucko

Winters97
You have been very patient attempting to work through these problems. If it were me I'd be pressing Mako/Tracker for a replacement as well. You bought their boat because of the features you mention and probably lots of positive comments on this site concerning the boat. The majority of ProSkiff owners(us) have had very few if any issues so your boat is an obvious exception that needs a positive resolution. 
Please keep us informed.


----------



## texas skiffaroo

We were getting water in the hull and I tightened the bottom chrome plug and no more water like before I could hear it sloshing in the forward part of the hull, now I just get a trickle.
When we took the boat out the first time after drifting for a while it wouldn't start and we hand cranked it. Started right up.
Bass pro found a blown fuse because the battery was defective.
Since then no more trouble except they put on a larger aerator pump.
Hope they take care of you and like joe buckoo said let us know, we got ours at that Bass Pro.


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## frankcr

Any man made item is subject to having defects. The measure of a manufacturer or his agents is how those problems are corrected. A problem with the hull drain should be easily corrected if that is the problem.

Hopefully they will give you satisfaction or a replacement if necessary.


----------



## panhandlekelly

I have had a few minor problems with my Mako and an occasion I have water in the hull but not every time. I think mine is caused by the live well when I forget to close the nozzle.
All in all, I love this boat a little more with every trip. Very comfortable and unclutered fishing. Every friend that goes out with me likes the comfortability of the boat.
I love it when I see another Mako in my area. My son saw one in the Gulf with 3-4 seas 10 to 15 miles off shore, that's confidence!


----------



## wag1551

To follow up on my post regarding difficult steering. BPS offered to install hydraulic steering for a pretty good discount, but it was still quite a lot of money so I did some diagnostic work including rotating the helm to free up the spent travel end, which kept the tube from coming off but didn't make the steering any easier. I then disconnected the cable completely and moved the motor by hand. It was very difficult. I reported this to BPS and took the boat in again so they could get a Mercury rep to look at it. After about a week, the service manager called and said that Mercury would replace "all the parts that swivel". It took about 3 weeks to get the parts but they finally got them installed and the steering was a lot better. I replaced the steering wheel with one that is 15 1/2" diameter and that also helped a lot. I took off work Friday and went to the lake to try it. It now works like it should. Yea!

I've been following the posts (and great video) about water in the hull. On previous outings I typically had a couple of gallons, or more, after only a few hours. I reported this to BPS when I took it in for the steering and they checked for leaks by filling the inside with water. They said they didn't find any leaks but said if I still felt there was a problem to let them know.

When I took the boat out Friday, I planned to measure the amount of water in the hull by letting it drain in a bucket while taking a video. Just before putting the boat in, I remembered the posts about making sure the drain plug is very tight so, instead of just snugging it, I tightened about as much as I could by hand. The last hour of our trip was in about 2' chop so I felt like it was a pretty good test. When I pulled it out, my wife was ready to take a video when I pulled the plug. I placed the bucket and made some commentary about having been out for 4 hours, pulled the plug and only a couple of tablespoons came out. My wife looked at me like I was nuts but it was a huge load off my mind.

Winters97
My experience with BPS is that they will do what it takes to solve the problem but it takes a while so don't give up. I can relate to your plight, although it sounds more serious than mine. I am also quite fond of this boat (my first boat that doesn't have sails) and, even though it has spent more time at Bass Pro Shop than in my possession, I was determined to make it right. I just like it that much. I hope they get your problem resolved soon so you can enjoy the boat.


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## daanglerguy

*Towing the mako pro skiff*

Hello, new to this forum. Wife and I are thinking of buying a 17 pro skiff however I only own a 2010 Ford Ranger, it has the tow package. Question I have is, will my truck pull the boat? The Mako we are looking at is a 2013 with the 60 hp motor, nothing added or nodded.


----------



## joebucko

I don't know what your towing capacity is on the Ranger but the Proskiff with a 60hp and trailer will weigh around 1800-1900lbs. I pull mine with a Toyota 4runner V8 so I did not need to get the trailer brakes. It is a very easy boat to tow.


----------



## rgourley11

*towing*



daanglerguy said:


> Hello, new to this forum. Wife and I are thinking of buying a 17 pro skiff however I only own a 2010 Ford Ranger, it has the tow package. Question I have is, will my truck pull the boat? The Mako we are looking at is a 2013 with the 60 hp motor, nothing added or nodded.


I pull mine with 2004 Chevy Colorado vortex 5 cyc. with no problem what so ever, I almost don't know its back there.


----------



## FlyItAll

*Update on water in Hull*

Last night I thoroughly checked all of the thru hull fittings on the transom, looking for the source of the small amount of water in the hull. I did find something with the livewell pickup fitting. This time around I removed the EZ pickup housing and the big black plastic nut securing the pickup fitting. I carefully inspected around the threaded black plastic fitting thru the hull and found a 3/8" section under the fitting which was not caulked! The builder had applied caulking around most of the pipe, but they missed a spot. I scraped off all of the old caulking and carefully and liberally applied 5200 and reassembled. I will let you know after I test it. I have caulked everything I can think of at this point, but this is the first thing I have found on the transom which was clearly a problem and could explain water in the hull. I took a picture of the problem, but it is difficult to appreciate the issue from the upside down photo.


----------



## daanglerguy

This is a screenshot of the PDF from the Ford Website. I am confused as to which part I would look at. If I can have assistance I greatly appreciate it.


----------



## joebucko

If your hitch is mounted on the bumper you can only tow 2000lbs. If you have a receiver hitch (mounted under the rear of the truck) you can tow 3500lbs. The Pro17 skiff with motor and trailer will weigh about 1800-1900lbs so you will need to have the receiver type hitch.


----------



## yellowskeeter

daanglerguy said:


> This is a screenshot of the PDF from the Ford Website. I am confused as to which part I would look at. If I can have assistance I greatly appreciate it.


You are good either way. Tow with bumper ( I don't recommend ) is 2000 lbs and with a hitch 3500 lbs.


----------



## daanglerguy

Thank you all. I appreciate your help and I get my Mako on Saturday. Now another worry, launching and/or retrieving from boat ramp. I have researched here and other forums, in particular Ford Ranger Forums, and people state they have done it just to take it slow and try not to let rear tires touch water and/or algea. Has anyone had issues with that part?


----------



## frankcr

The condition of ramps varies all over the board. Watch others launch and talk to those familiar with the particular ramp you plan to use. Steep ramp, slippery ramp, short ramp, they all exist and can be trouble if you get careless. I have seen folks lose cars and trailers by being careless and having the tow vehicle slide down into the water.

The advice you received is valid.


----------



## daanglerguy

This is more than likely where i would launch from.


----------



## texas skiffaroo

daanglerguy said:


> This is more than likely where i would launch from.


Would suggest getting the bunk slips at Bass Pro. We installed them six inches apart on each carpeted runner a couple of inches up from the v. Look and see where the hull is touching on the carpet and center them there.
We got tired of pushing ours off and the bunks slips made it possible to drive right on and off. Tried spraying silicone on the carpet but we like the slips better.
STAY OFF THE SLIME. Watch in your side mirror as you enter the water, you should see the boat lift and waddle a little as the water starts to float it. Stop before its floating too much.
Then you know you can drive it off. We can just barely see the top off the trailer fender sticking out of the water and that's about right on our Mako skiff.
Hope this helps, we had the same questions when we got our 2012.
Go on the internet and put in boat launching. There is cool stuff on there.
My wife stands on the dock with the rope and I back up and stop and it floats right in.
Makes for less time on the ramp.
Saw a boater by himself in Matagorda tie it to the dock with just the right amount of slack and shot it right in .
Good Luck


----------



## daanglerguy

Once again, thank you for the tips. I appreciate it. Will look into those boat trailer slides, seem pretty cool not to have to dip your whole trailer to have boat on the water.


----------



## KeithD.

Are you guys putting these bunk glides on all four of the bunks or just the two that touch the bottom of the hull? How many and how far apart are you guys installing them?. Thanks in advance.


----------



## FlyItAll

Kieth, I left a 12" gap between mine and it seems fine. As far as I can tell, all 4 bunks carry the weight evenly, so I placed mine on all 4 bunks.


----------



## texas skiffaroo

KeithD. said:


> Are you guys putting these bunk glides on all four of the bunks or just the two that touch the bottom of the hull? How many and how far apart are you guys installing them?. Thanks in advance.


Look closer' all four touch the hull. Where the hull touches the bunk you want it touching the slips.
All four 6 inches apart worked for mine.
Retighten the screws after first launch not too tight to strip.


----------



## Winters97gt

FlyItAll said:


> Last night I thoroughly checked all of the thru hull fittings on the transom, looking for the source of the small amount of water in the hull. I did find something with the livewell pickup fitting. This time around I removed the EZ pickup housing and the big black plastic nut securing the pickup fitting. I carefully inspected around the threaded black plastic fitting thru the hull and found a 3/8" section under the fitting which was not caulked! The builder had applied caulking around most of the pipe, but they missed a spot. I scraped off all of the old caulking and carefully and liberally applied 5200 and reassembled. I will let you know after I test it. I have caulked everything I can think of at this point, but this is the first thing I have found on the transom which was clearly a problem and could explain water in the hull. I took a picture of the problem, but it is difficult to appreciate the issue from the upside down photo.


Thanks for that info. Curious to see how it works out for ya.


----------



## KeithD.

Thanks guys for the info. How many kits did you need to buy to do all four bunks?


----------



## texas skiffaroo

Do the math depending on the size of the slip bars, it's been over a year ago but they had different sizes and amounts in package. Go to Bass Pro web site. they are on there.
Mine are almost to the bottom edge of the bunk about 1/2 inch up that way the V sits right in it. 18" long- 5 on each bunk 4 inches apart . 
Was worried about the screws not staying tight in carpet, but so far so good.
The screws are counter sunk so no scratches.


----------



## daanglerguy

Pick up my Mako Pro Skiff 17 today from BPS and I must say thank you , Gina, Dave, John, and Pete you all were great. Great day to break in motor.


----------



## daanglerguy

Some pics from today


----------



## racingdc9

Hey guys, it's great to see more Mako skiff owners on here. My buddy and I have had ours for a year and few months now and love it. Unfortunately, we still can't find the fish, lol.. I know Joebucko installed a manual jackplate, I was wondering if anyone have or know of anyone who has installed a hydraulic one. I'm trying to find something that will help us run shallow like 1 ft of water, not sure if that's possible or not. No issues with water in the hull, last few trips, i've noticed maybe a 1/4 -1/2 cup of water come out of the steel drain plug.


----------



## joebucko

Racingdc9
I did install a manual jackplate and am in the middle of thoroughly testing it to see how it changes the performance of my boat. When I get finished I'll report back to you guys on what I find out. One thing I know already is that our boats are not very sensitive to motor height. One of my original goals was to get my anti-cavitation plate above the water at cruising speed where I believe it should be. The other thing I know is that the propeller you are using makes a big difference. In my case I have two identical props except for PITCH. Both Mercury aluminum Black Max 10.375x13P and 10.375x14P. The 13P runs at a higher RPM but cavitates and ventilates regularly no matter the engine height. The 14P grips the water like sandpaper at any height...no cavitation or ventilation at all. Here are two pictures of the anti-cav plate before raising the motor on the Jackplate and after. See if you can tell the difference.....more to follow:


----------



## FlatsCatFL

joebucko said:


> Racingdc9
> I did install a manual jackplate and am in the middle of thoroughly testing it to see how it changes the performance of my boat. When I get finished I'll report back to you guys on what I find out. One thing I know already is that our boats are not very sensitive to motor height. One of my original goals was to get my anti-cavitation plate above the water at cruising speed where I believe it should be. The other thing I know is that the propeller you are using makes a big difference. In my case I have two identical props except for PITCH. Both Mercury aluminum Black Max 10.375x13P and 10.375x14P. The 13P runs at a higher RPM but cavitates and ventilates regularly no matter the engine height. The 14P grips the water like sandpaper at any height...no cavitation or ventilation at all. Here are two pictures of the anti-cav plate before raising the motor on the Jackplate and after. See if you can tell the difference.....more to follow:


Joebucko, wowâ€¦â€¦big difference on the 14p prop. i'm running a merc. stainless OEM that came with my rig. i will be following your trial/error results closely. cheers!


----------



## joebucko

FlatsCatFl
What specific Merc prop are you running? Size/Pitch.


----------



## ut755ln

*SALE*

Just an FYI, they are selling the boats $1,500 off right now with 3.5% financing available.

http://www.mako-boats.com/boat/?boat=3555


----------



## racingdc9

Joebucko,

Our boat came with the stainless Vengeance prop. I'll have to check on the pitch. I've been going back in the older threads and I'm definitely going to get the hydrofoil Stingray for the boat. So, with the cavitation plate above water, will that allow the boat to go through and get up on plane in shallower water?


----------



## joebucko

racingdc9
At idle my anti-cav plate is submerged and does what all A-C plates are supposed to do. My pro17 has always had an excellent hole shot and raising the motor has not affected that at all but now my AC plate is cleanly out of the water once I hit planning speed. If I had a hydrofoil on the boat it could help the hole shot but would be cleanly out of the water at planing speed and should not impact performance. If my AC plate remained submerged with a hydrofoil it would impact performance the entire time.

Boaters increase engine height for several reasons. Some want less lower unit sticking in the water so they can run shallower while other want less lower unit in the water to decrease resistance and put the prop more in line with the center axis of the hull. In theory this should translate into more efficient forward motion and less wasted energy from the propeller trying to raise the bow. 

My 60hp Mercury was originally mounted to the transom using the 2nd hole on the engine mounting bracket (as I believe all are). This placed the center line of my prop shaft about 7" below the pad/hull of the boat. I feel like I got decent performance from this setup as my hole shot was very good and top speed was between 33-34mph. At this point I don't know precisely how raising the engine on my boat will affect performance but I will know before I am finished.


----------



## frankcr

Joebucko, how much did the set back increase with the jack plate? Theoretically you should be able to raise the engine more with the prop further back from the transom, but the hulls are complex.

Very interested in what you arrive at after doing the work.


----------



## joebucko

frankcr
The setback is 4". I was surprised that the motor could be raised as much as I did on my initial runs. I probably raised it too much but I was trying to see how high it would go before the prop blew out or the cooling water stopped flowing. Neither happened and I had to bring it home and actually raise the engine on the jack plate to the 3rd hole. Weather is crappy this week so I doubt I'll be able to get on the lake to start my systematic testing.
I do need to know what 3blade stainless steel propellers others are running and what kind of performance they are getting. After I run the full range of tests with my aluminum prop I will probably go to a stainless steel but not sure which.
Leading stainless contenders are:

Mercury vengeance
Stiletto Triad 3.5


----------



## FlatsCatFL

joebucko said:


> FlatsCatFl
> What specific Merc prop are you running? Size/Pitch.


here is a early picture of my prop. the boat is not at the house so i can't get more info at this time.


----------



## frankcr

48-855858 A5 = 10 1/2" x 13" pitch 3 blade Vengeance


----------



## racingdc9

joebucko said:


> racingdc9
> At idle my anti-cav plate is submerged and does what all A-C plates are supposed to do. My pro17 has always had an excellent hole shot and raising the motor has not affected that at all but now my AC plate is cleanly out of the water once I hit planning speed. If I had a hydrofoil on the boat it could help the hole shot but would be cleanly out of the water at planing speed and should not impact performance. If my AC plate remained submerged with a hydrofoil it would impact performance the entire time.
> 
> Boaters increase engine height for several reasons. Some want less lower unit sticking in the water so they can run shallower while other want less lower unit in the water to decrease resistance and put the prop more in line with the center axis of the hull. In theory this should translate into more efficient forward motion and less wasted energy from the propeller trying to raise the bow.
> 
> My 60hp Mercury was originally mounted to the transom using the 2nd hole on the engine mounting bracket (as I believe all are). This placed the center line of my prop shaft about 7" below the pad/hull of the boat. I feel like I got decent performance from this setup as my hole shot was very good and top speed was between 33-34mph. At this point I don't know precisely how raising the engine on my boat will affect performance but I will know before I am finished.


I've been told that since our boat doesn't have a tunnel in the center of our hull, that a jackplate/raising our motor will not help our boat since it will not have the water needed in the center for the prop, what are your thoughts on that?


----------



## joebucko

racingdc9
I don't know the answer to that yet. It may be true but there are a whole lot of jackplates on bass boats and none of those are tunnel boats. Honestly there is probably not much top end performance to be gained on the Pro17 because of the limits of the 60hp motor but it may be possible to improve the mid-range a bit.

FlatsCatFl
Frank is correct you have a 13P Vengeance. Do you know what your WOT RPM and speed are with that prop?


----------



## FlatsCatFL

joebucko said:


> racingdc9
> I don't know the answer to that yet. It may be true but there are a whole lot of jackplates on bass boats and none of those are tunnel boats. Honestly there is probably not much top end performance to be gained on the Pro17 because of the limits of the 60hp motor but it may be possible to improve the mid-range a bit.
> 
> FlatsCatFl
> Frank is correct you have a 13P Vengeance. Do you know what your WOT RPM and speed are with that prop?[/QUOT
> 
> Joebucko
> sorry, no i don't have definitive info on those parameters. the last time i was really paying attention it was in the high twenties (mph) @ around 5800 rpm.


----------



## Winters97gt

racingdc9 said:


> I've been told that since our boat doesn't have a tunnel in the center of our hull, that a jackplate/raising our motor will not help our boat since it will not have the water needed in the center for the prop, what are your thoughts on that?


Same thing the guys in Katy told me about mine since I would like a little better holeshot in skinny water.

Can anybody recommend what sealant to use on the transome around the holes/drain plugs? I think I found my issue with water in the hull. I've got about 3 weeks of fishing in South Texas starting this weekend and can't wait for BPS to fix the issue they should have solved.


----------



## joebucko

Winters97gt
I use 3M Marine 5200 Adhesive/Sealant for all fittings that I want permanently watertight. There are two types: Fast Dry which takes 24hours and Slow Dry which takes 7 Days. There is no difference in their sealing ability. You should be able to get it at Academy or Lowes. I don't believe HomeDepot carries the 3M brand.
Get the small tube(2-3oz) not the caulking gun size tube because you will never use that much and the directions say that you have to use it within 48 hours because it will harden in the tube after opening.


----------



## Winters97gt

Awesome Joe. Thanks Buddy!


----------



## frankcr

A jackplate moves the foot of the motor further away and above the position it would be in if mounted on the transom. It may not make a terrific difference in the performance, but there should certainly be a difference. 

The air being channeled through the pockets on either side of the vee may be a problem though, but the only way to find out is what our man is doing. Hopefully it works out to be worthwhile.


----------



## frankcr

Has anyone had contact with KiteboarderDoug regarding how Bass Pro vented his bait well pump and if it did indeed cure the problem?


----------



## Winters97gt

I caulked the back end of my boat. I even sealed and caulked the hole and entire livewell system. Took the boat out to South Padre Island this weekend again. No luck. Another 14 minutes on the boat ramp at an angle with water in the hull. I'm at a complete loss for words. Left it in Padre instead of bringing it back home. Hope it burns down.


----------



## highanddryinco

Winters97gt said:


> I caulked the back end of my boat. I even sealed and caulked the hole and entire livewell system. Took the boat out to South Padre Island this weekend again. No luck. Another 14 minutes on the boat ramp at an angle with water in the hull. I'm at a complete loss for words. Left it in Padre instead of bringing it back home. Hope it burns down.


I haven't posted in a while but I grab a quick peek at the site every few weeks or so. Winters97...unbelievable what you're getting out of that drain. My advice, being a mechanic myself, find a good mechanic with a evap diagnostic smoke machine and fill that hull void with smoke right at the drain plug. Pretty good chance you'll find your leak. Good luck man. Let us know. :cheers:

Oh, and make sure to use the UV dye smoke.


----------



## Winters97gt

highanddryinco said:


> I haven't posted in a while but I grab a quick peek at the site every few weeks or so. Winters97...unbelievable what you're getting out of that drain. My advice, being a mechanic myself, find a good mechanic with a evap diagnostic smoke machine and fill that hull void with smoke right at the drain plug. Pretty good chance you'll find your leak. Good luck man. Let us know. :cheers:
> 
> Oh, and make sure to use the UV dye smoke.


Thanks for that suggestion, man. I appreciate it. I've posted that on my local car racing forums to find one.

I'll be fishing all next week out of SPI. It's gonna suck pulling the boat out at noon each day to drain it for the evening fishing run. Lucky, the boat is a piece of cake to launch and load on a trailer.


----------



## Ox Eye

Winters97gt said:


> I'll be fishing all next week out of SPI. It's gonna suck pulling the boat out at noon each day to drain it for the evening fishing run. Lucky, the boat is a piece of cake to launch and load on a trailer.


It would seem to me that if that much water leaks IN, it also ought to leak OUT of the same place. Maybe you could fill the hull on dry land and look to see if it drains out from someplace. Couldn't hurt!


----------



## joebucko

Winters97GT
My heart goes out to you brother. You should be enjoying your boat not dreading every trip. There is a not so obvious leak in your boat. I have two last suggestions if you have not already tried them. 
1. Actually plug off the intake and drain for the livewell before putting the boat in the water next time. If there is a hole in one of your lines water could be entering the hull that way.
2. The only other place water should be able to get in (short of an actual hole in the hull) would be through the transom mounting bolts on the engine. It is possible that the lower bolts are not completely sealed. A leak there would allow water to enter through the transom and drain down into the hull between the liner and hull. The dye smoke might make this easier to determine.

Good luck


----------



## yellowskeeter

I have not read this whole thing and take a look here and there. This may have been mentioned before but why not put the plug in the boat and add water inside your bilge while on the driveway. You will surely find out quick where the leaks are. Make sure you un plug or turn off your battery if you have a automatic bildge.


----------



## daanglerguy

So i love the boat, have taken it out the last 2 weekends. Have caught some reds, enough to have a good dinner. One concern, i let my wife drive it for awhile in port Mansfield, on her way to the east cut she hit and oyster bed. It was shallow and scratched the bottom, I understand this will happen especially in shallows. Is this something to worry about?


----------



## DCAVA

daanglerguy said:


> So i love the boat, have taken it out the last 2 weekends. Have caught some reds, enough to have a good dinner. One concern, i let my wife drive it for awhile in port Mansfield, on her way to the east cut she hit and oyster bed. It was shallow and scratched the bottom, I understand this will happen especially in shallows. Is this something to worry about?


U bought it @ BPS Harlingen, correct? If so, take it to them so they can evaluate the damage; I took mine in for 20 hr service last wk, and the service manager is a cool cat. He will guide u on what needs to be done if anything.

Be careful in and around those oyster beds, I never go that way cause of the risk; I fish Mansfield to SPI. U gotta know where ur going to avoid issues.....


----------



## frankcr

If it is just gel coat damage, it will not hurt a boat which is trailered. It is hard to see by the picture, but it does not appear any deep gouges appear.

The first scratch in the paint of a new car seems like a nightmare much like cosmetic damage to a hull. Stuff happens though. It is fairly easy to patch unsightly scratches.

Oysters are a common thing in the area where we fish which stands out if you examine the bottom of hulls in the area 

If you are new to boats, take DCAVA's advice for peace of mind.


----------



## wag1551

Marine-tex works well for this type of repair. You can get it at West Marine, and probably other places.


----------



## daanglerguy

Thank you for you alls feedback and suggestions. Wouldn't it be better to use gel coat repair kits?


----------



## texasislandboy

Yes use gel coat. Marine tex is not gel coat from what I understand its a epoxy. Get some clear packing tape and put it over the gel coat after you put it on it will make the repair nice and flat.


----------



## daanglerguy

What are your thoughts on a hydraulic lift jack plate for Arroyo shallow areas? I know in previous post someone posted about a manual lift plate but was wondering if it was any help in skinny water in Arroyo city?


----------



## texasislandboy

A guy down the street from me has one on his. I think with the right prop you could get into some trouble with that boat but really if you want to get shallow and get out you need a tunnel and even then you need to know what your doing and where you are.


----------



## joebucko

On the subject of the manual jackplate I am still evaluating it. Weather around here has been crappy so it has not been possible to get on the water. So far I can say conclusively that the jackplate has allowed me to raise the engine 2-3 inches from the factory 2nd hole mounting position and now my engine's anti-cavitation plate is clearly above the waterline at planning speeds . It has also increased my rpms by 150-200. I have picked up 1-2mph at cruising speed and 1-2mph on the top end. This was with my stock aluminum black max propeller. Next time out I will be trying a stainless steel propeller so we'll see how that goes.


----------



## eyesneers

*What is the best prop?*

Ok, so it's Christmas time and I want to get a SS prop for my 17ft Mako with 60 HP Merc- did we ever decide which pitch/size/3vs 4 blade is the best? I typically have 3+ full sized passengers.


----------



## joebucko

I haven't been able to get definitive performance stats from anyone on the site relative to propellers. I have accurate performance stats on my Mercury Black Max 3 blade aluminum props(13P & 14P) and am in the process of putting a Powertech SCB3 10.5x14Pitch propeller on the boat. As soon as the weather clears I'll test that and report. 
Depending on how this performs I have one other candidate in mind.

Propeller selection is really going to be dependent on what you are trying to accomplish. I am shooting for decent hole shot and top end speed but I fish alone most of the time in a North Texas lake so shallow water is not an issue. If I wanted a great hole shot with 3 people in the boat and decent top end and cruise I would not be looking at the SCB3 but probably a 4blade of some kind.

Hopefully other will chime in with some prop specific numbers for us all to compare.


----------



## wag1551

When I bought my boat I asked BPS to replace the original prop with a SS one. They sold me a 48-878614 13P. It was on the boat the first time I used it so I have no basis of comparison but it seems to work ok. If anyone has an opinion, I would like to hear it.


----------



## joebucko

wag1551
I assume you have the Mercury 60hp engine. 
At wide open throttle (WOT) what is your RPM and Speed? 
Do you get any porpoising with your boat?


----------



## eyesneers

*prop*

I have a 4 blade aluminum that came with the boat(I am not sure of the pitch). I run top end speed around 30-31 with 3-4 passengers. I am looking to squeeze a few more mph out when pulling a tube (loaded with tube I struggle to get in the low 20's) the best performance of the tube is if you hit 24+mph, so if I could get a few more mph it will help. Again, this is with three in the boat and one on the tube. Hole shot is not much problem- just getting the tube to top speed- and i want best speed when just fishing with my son.


----------



## frankcr

eyesneers*,* you probably need two different props for what you describe.


----------



## wag1551

joebucko said:


> wag1551
> I assume you have the Mercury 60hp engine.
> At wide open throttle (WOT) what is your RPM and Speed?
> Do you get any porpoising with your boat?


I do have the 60 hp engine.
I took it out today and got the following:

WOT
30.3 knots (34.9 MPH) at 6,000 rpm
with about an 8 mph tail wind and 6" to 12" chop.
and 500 lbs of passenger and gear weight.

I'm not sure if it was poroising but adjusting the trim (tilt) did seem make it run smother. The trim is something of a mystery to me and I have not mastered using it.

To go from 0.6 to 30 knots took 28 seconds.

A couple of months ago, with about 600 lbs of passenger and gear weight, and a 12 year old girl tubing, I believe we were going 24 but I don't remember if it was knots or mph.


----------



## joebucko

Thanks Wag1551. Your performance with the Vengeance 13P is very good. Porpoising is the tendency for the bow of the boat to bounce up and down. Slight trimming of the engine will usually eliminate it. My boat only porpoises at WOT/max speed and with slight trim down it goes away.


----------



## Winters97gt

Caught about 20 of these bad boys today on light tackle. Avoided the crowds in South Bay and SPI and went south.


----------



## eyesneers

*prop issues*

Joebuck you are probably right about 2 different props. With my current prop I have never been able to get over about 5700 rpm's, and that is without much load in the boat- I hear others talk about running 6000 rpm and was thinking if I could get that kind of rpm I would get better speed(and that was trimmed up by the way). I'm not sure how much better I can do on that with a SS prop instead of my aluminum.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*Jacks*

nice catch, jacks are a hoot on light tackle!


----------



## eyesneers

wag- on the trim a good rule of thumb- start your hole shot trimmed all the way down- after you are on plane start clicking up the trim till you get a little porpoising, then trim back down a click or two until the porpoising is gone.


----------



## wag1551

Thanks eyesneers. I will try your technique on the next outing.


----------



## joebucko

eyesneers
All boats are pretty much the same when it comes to propellers. The owner must decide what he wants to accomplish. It isn't possible to get a single propeller that will pull a tube as fast as possible and achieve maximum top end speed. 

The recommended RPM for the Mercury 60hp is 5500-6000rpm and your 4 blade prop has you right in the middle of that range. If you wanted to hit the 6000rpm number you would need to drop down 1" in pitch from your current propeller although I suspect that it wouldn't change your overall performance +-1mph either way.

Stainless steel propellers tend to deliver slightly better performance than comparable aluminum props but on our boat/motor combinations it really won't be that significant. 

Fortunately propellers are very easy to change out and I believe in carrying a spare prop in my boat for emergencies. In your case you could use your existing 4blade for the heavy lifting/tubing and if you wanted more top end speed on non-tubing trips you could change over to a 3 blade stainless or aluminum prop that would allow you to hit the 6000rpm number. With the right 3blade and two people in your boat you should be able to hit 34-35 at 6000rpm. It should also allow you to cruise about 3mph faster as well saving a little gas.


----------



## eyesneers

Thanks Joebucko for the tips. I was thinking of using the current prop for my spare and trying for a little better speed when it's just a few of us fishing. From what you say- I'm thinking of trying the 3 blade stainless. For anyone that is using a three blade- does it give more trouble with sucking air since we are so close to the surface?


----------



## Winters97gt

eyesneers said:


> Joebuck you are probably right about 2 different props. With my current prop I have never been able to get over about 5700 rpm's, and that is without much load in the boat- I hear others talk about running 6000 rpm and was thinking if I could get that kind of rpm I would get better speed(and that was trimmed up by the way). I'm not sure how much better I can do on that with a SS prop instead of my aluminum.


After about 150 hours, I'm seeing 6100-6200rpm with the SS prop with a full load. I've hit 37mph quite a few times with just myself, gear and 40lbs of ice. Hit 36mph yesterday in the Brownsfield ship channel with a full load and my brother. Screen captured it on GPS, but my iPhone went for a swim so I don't have the pics. SS prop here.


----------



## joebucko

Winters97gt
Impressive performance with two people in the boat. Which stainless steel prop are you running and what is the pitch?

Something I have noted in my trials so far is the impact of air temperature on the performance of the 60hp Mercury. During the hottest part of the summer {95deg +) my 14Pitch prop would barely turn 5500 rpms but let the temp fall below 65deg and the rpms climb to 58-5900. I took my 13Pitch propeller off because it was bumping up against 6200rpm. My engine only has about 75 hours on it so hopefully it will loosen up a bit more.


----------



## eyesneers

What exact prop do you have(blades, pitch, model) Those numbers sound great!


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## Winters97gt

Thanks. I agree with Joe, I'm easily seeing 150-200rpm and 1-2mph increase with this cool weather. 

The prop is a 3 blade, 13 pitch prop. The boat runs good up top, but is a turd down low. Probably because the hull is full of water.


----------



## frankcr

The brand of the prop makes a difference even though two props have the same diameter and pitch. It would be helpful if you stated the make and series along with the description. The prop hubs should match the lower unit of the motors.

Cannot believe they have not solved your water problem, Winters.


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## Winters97gt

Frank,

It's the optional SS Vengeance prop that comes from bass pro. My wife took a picture of it for her Instagram account(yawn) so she filtered it. All I know is that it's the 3 blade Vengeance SS prop with a 13 pitch



Yeah, it's unfortunate that Bass Pro hasn't fixed the issue. I decided to not drop the boat off and risk not having it during the holidays(off since I'm a coach for 3 weeks). On top of that, I figured they would be pretty busy prepping new boat sales, etc. gonna give the Harlingen location a shot at the beginning of the year.


----------



## wag1551

We are going to have freezing weather starting tomorrow night. The boat is on the trailer with the tongue slightly elevated and the motor is in the down position. How can I be sure that the live well is fully drained? Are there any other steps I need to take to avoid damage to the boat/motor? Thanks.


----------



## joebucko

wag1551
I have my boat positioned exactly like you have yours in preparation for the freeze we are expecting. I don't believe we need to do anything with the livewell as long as it is drained. The lines feeding/emptying it are open on both ends and flexible so any water freezing in the lines should be fine. 

The only things I did to my boat were to trim my motor all the way up then all the way down to be sure all water was drained and I filled my gas tank completely and added some stabilizer to prevent any water from condensing.


----------



## FlyItAll

*No more water in the hull!!!*

Spent 6 hours on the water yesterday and confirmed that my fixes were successful. I finally have no (as in none, nada) water come out of the hull drain at the end of the day. Now, once I get this side imaging sonar figured out, I am just going fishing. One Happy camper!


----------



## joebucko

Congratulations FlyItAll. Enjoy fishing and let us know how the SideImaging works out. I only have DownImaging which is pretty cool.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*No H2O*



FlyItAll said:


> Spent 6 hours on the water yesterday and confirmed that my fixes were successful. I finally have no (as in none, nada) water come out of the hull drain at the end of the day. Now, once I get this side imaging sonar figured out, I am just going fishing. One Happy camper!


Flyitall, glad to hear a positive occurrence with your water issue, cheers.


----------



## frankcr

Finally got a chance to get out today, and a light check found the waterproof lights were not. They were too far gone to change bulbs, so instead of fishing, we installed light fixtures. Shoot, we had perfect weather, 3 to 10 MPH wind from the south and a good tide.


----------



## wag1551

No boating here for a while.


----------



## panhandlekelly

Where did you get the cover, looks like a good fit.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

joebucko said:


> I decided to install a manual jack plate on my Pro17 and needed a safe and easy way to hang the motor without having to disconnect any cables so I came up with this. All I used was my Little Giant Ladder, a short piece of chain and the trailer. My Mercury 60 hp 4stroke only weighs 240lbs and has a built in lifting ring so I knew the ladder would support it safely.
> -Chock the trailer securely
> -lower the tongue jack all the way down(raising the engine/transom to max height)
> -remove the cowling, position the ladder squarely over the engine and attach the chain so that it is fairly tight removing as much slack as practical
> -slowly raise the trailer tongue(lowers the transom) until the full weight of the motor is on the chain.
> I removed the two bottom transom bolts and just loosened the 2 top bolts enough to work the sealant free. I wanted to make sure the entire weight of the motor was completely transferred to the ladder before disconnecting completely.
> When the top bolts were removed the engine swings away from the transom just enough. This method could also be used to just raise or lower the engine if you wanted to change mounting holes.


Hi Joebucko, hope your not freezing your a## of to much at the moment. I forgot to ask you if the installation of the jack plate created an increased binding on your manual steering cable system? Cheers!


----------



## joebucko

FlatsCatFl
I am freezing my a%$ off. Two inches of ice on everything and going down to 16deg tonight. That is VERY cold for the Dallas area and the ice makes it impractical to go out. That's the bad news. The good news is we will have several days in the 60s before Christmas and I should get my boat back from BassPro early next week so I should be able to take it out and test the new stainless steel prop. I knew bad weather was coming so with the downtime I scheduled my rig in for some service.
1. One of my Vault Oil Bath trailer hubs was leaking.
2. I had a slow leak in my engine lower unit and wanted to get it fixed before winter could freeze any water that had accumulated. 

The jackplate has a 4" set back and did not put any sort of strain on my existing cables. I believe a 6" would probably cause problems at least when turning to starboard.


----------



## wag1551

panhandlekelly said:


> Where did you get the cover, looks like a good fit.


I got it from West Marine and they got it from Taylor Made . It comes with a roll of webbing and you have to cut each strap. It doesn't have snap connectors so you have to thread each strap each time. It fits well but it may pool close to the bow. It is a pretty heavy nylon-like material. All in all, I'm happy with it. Here is a link

http://m.westmarine.com/aHR0cDovL3d...xNSZsYW5nSWQ9LTEmc2VhcmNoS2V5d29yZD04OTE0NzE1


----------



## FlatsCatFL

joebucko said:


> FlatsCatFl
> I am freezing my a%$ off. Two inches of ice on everything and going down to 16deg tonight. That is VERY cold for the Dallas area and the ice makes it impractical to go out. That's the bad news. The good news is we will have several days in the 60s before Christmas and I should get my boat back from BassPro early next week so I should be able to take it out and test the new stainless steel prop. I knew bad weather was coming so with the downtime I scheduled my rig in for some service.
> 1. One of my Vault Oil Bath trailer hubs was leaking.
> 2. I had a slow leak in my engine lower unit and wanted to get it fixed before winter could freeze any water that had accumulated.
> 
> The jackplate has a 4" set back and did not put any sort of strain on my existing cables. I believe a 6" would probably cause problems at least when turning to starboard.


Thanks, Joebucko for the jackplate feedback. My CMC unit i think has a 5" setback. I'm planning to install mine sometime after the upcoming holidays. I'm hoping more binding does not occur, my steering is already fairly stiff.

Here's to continued success with your rig testing. I look forward to reading your further comments after the winter thaw! Cheers!


----------



## LitUp

*H2O in hull*



FlyItAll said:


> Spent 6 hours on the water yesterday and confirmed that my fixes were successful. I finally have no (as in none, nada) water come out of the hull drain at the end of the day. Now, once I get this side imaging sonar figured out, I am just going fishing. One Happy camper!


Fly how did you finally remedy the water problem?


----------



## OldManOwen

For you guys who have WATER in your HULL. I had a scary experience today out on the lake. I noticed there was a little water on the floor of the boat, wasn't sure where it was coming from so just turned on the bilge and stood on the back deck for a few seconds until it was gone. 10 minutes later I walk to the back of the boat and there is an INCH of water on the floor, OK now I need to figure out whats going on.
To make a long story short, at the bottom of the live-well there is a fitting the stand pipe screws in to. If you look under the Center Console you can see it is a 90 degree elbow and the overflow hose connects to it via hose-clamp. Upon inspection I noticed water was pouring out of a crack in the actual plastic elbow fitting at an alarming rate.
Please note I NEVER use the live-well, it has towels and assorted stuff in it. I believe the connection to that fitting must be lower than the point where it drains or somehow a siphon condition occurred to get the water to start coming IN the overflow hose. I quickly disconnected the hose with a screwdriver and zip-tied it up to it highest point onto the steering cables that run up from the rigging tube and that stopped the water coming in.
Once we had the water stopped I turned on the bilge and we ran back to the ramp and put the boat on the trailer. I drained approximately 5 gallons of water from the hull and none from the upper drain (bilge pumped it out on the run back). Until this day I have never had more than an ounce of water come out that bottom drain. Please just be aware that if there is a loose connection or a crack in a fitting that somehow there is enough water pressure or some scenario where water can be forced IN to the overflow of the live-well on our boats. I know that was long winded and I apologize, but it was 38 degree's outside and the water temp is 48.9 right now. Please check your hoses to the lousy live-well design and be aware it could pose a serious problem because the water was running right into the rigging tube where the "Bilge Pump" is unable to remove it.
On a positive note we did put 22 Crappie in the boat after we got the leak fixed. Have a great weekend folks and please be safe.


----------



## frankcr

Good grief, that was a bad situation which thankfully you caught in time. I don't know if the foam filled hull will hold enough water to do too much damage, but I would not want to be the one to find out.. Many boats have sunk which had thru hull fittings without sea cocks. Our ProLine had fittings which could have caused problems with no sea cocks, so I checked them fairly often.


----------



## OldManOwen

frankcr,
I'm sure with the working bilge we were fine, I hope the hull would not sink with just water below the bilge in the foam. I'll be honest though, it was scary to look under the CC and see water pouring in through a fitting, especially when it's so cold outside.


----------



## texas skiffaroo

Thanks for that report. We don't use the live well either, water splashes out on choppy bays.
Been thinking of what to plug up the drain with on the out side of the transom, because I noticed water comes in when I back up or put the boat in even with the drain tower in.
Now with your report it may be a more important reason to plug it from the outside.
Could be where some of the water is getting in every ones hull.
If it comes up even with my drain tower in, you are right about some serious siphoning going on.


----------



## Winters97gt

Nothing to report positively. Still tried sealing anything and everything on the transom. Launched the boat this morning. Ran 50 miles. With the boat loaded down, I hit 36-37mph, with a hull full of water.





Loaded the boat with Spanish Mackerel and Mangrove Snapper. Landed about 15 Jack Crevalles for fun.


----------



## Winters97gt

BTW, my live we'll is caulked and sealed to hell, that's not the problem.


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## FlyItAll

*Water in Hull*

Lit Up- My water problems were caused by 3 different things. The first one was a leak under the livewell that I fixed by tightening the hose clamp and fitting nut on the right angle drain line. (My problem was different than OldManOwen describes and I may totally disconnect that line after reading his experience.) My second problem was not tightening the hull drain fitting enough and I now use a wrench on it. My third problem was the livewell pickup fitting not being properly caulked under the EZ pickup cover. I have discussed each of these on this forum as I discovered them and posted some photos if you want to search back. I am now only using my livewell as an ice chest. Good luck.


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## panhandlekelly

Several pages back, someone posted about his BPS adding a vent to to his baitwell pump. Did he ever post a picture or discribe how they vented it?


----------



## frankcr

That was Kiteboarder Doug who travels quite a bit. I sent him a pm, but it is hard to catch him at home so he can post the information.

I too am curious as to how well the mods work and just what they did.


----------



## KeithD.

I wanted to let you guys know that I spoke with my local BPS about this mod to the livewell. My local BPS spoke with the dealer that performed this mod for kiteboarder. It was not a BPS dealer it was an independent dealer that sold these boats as well that performed the work. My local BPS was hesitant about doing this mod as it was not approved by Mako. They were concerned that if this caused some type of issue with the boat that Mako would not stand behind the warranty. I had them instead rotate the pump as seen in some early posts and it seems to be working. I havent been able to get out much to test it throughly but so far it seems to be working. I am hoping to get out this weekend and will let you know how things go.


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## Winters97gt

Without derailing the water in the hull argument(even though it appears I have as much as anybody), I'd like to revisit the jack plate argument.

My stance in this boat really doesn't run that skinny. I know, it's not a shallow sport(my family has owned many and I grew up on them), so I know not to expect that. However, recently, I've taken my old man's 21ft explorer loaded with 3 batteries, 2 live wells in the back that are large, and his 150 Merc much skinnier than our boats go. I've run over the exact same paths I've fished for 25 years in the lower Laguna Madre and stuck my boat this last year where I've never stuck a boat. Out come the waders...

With our boats not having a jack plate standard, I took a look at the profile of the boat with the motor again and thought about things. Relocating the battery under the center console, or the fuel tank. I ruled out the fuel tank, because I rarely run a full tank and it's only 6 gallons. I also thought about the characteristics of changing weight in light chop conditions, and the ill effect that could have. Let alone medium chop, which this boat wasn't intended for and can't handle. So I've kind of ruled out changing the setup, but still interested in putting the battery in the center console.

I'd like to hear real life experience with guys that have installed a manual or electric jack plate. I don't mind kicking up a little mud/sand for short periods just to get through places that I haven't got stuck in while driving other boats.

Take a look at how far our props hang down. I know BPS says it won't really help to add a jack plate, but I disagree.

What added weight does your jack plate add to the rear and transom, and what difference have you guys seen?


----------



## joebucko

Winters97gt
I installed a manual RapidJack jack plate on my boat in late October. Weight 23lbs with a 4" setback. I am still running my standard Mercury BlackMax 14p aluminum prop. Here is what I have learned so far.

1. Engine height adjustments of as little as 1/4" can be the difference in the propeller gripping the water or blowing out(ventilating).
2. Engine can be raised 2"-2.5" above original factory setting which results in the anti-cavitation plate riding on the surface of the water when on plane and can increase WOT 200-300rpm.
3. Cruising and Top end speed may increase 1-3mph
4. 4" jackplate setback does not require any steering or control cable changes.
5. Be very careful when buying a jackplate because NOT ALL JACKPLATES will fit the Mako Pro17. The RapidJack for instance is an extremely tight fit and actually designed for a larger boat.

The best way to measure the height of the engine is to measure the distance between the propeller shaft centerline and the bottom/pad of the boat. This link takes you to a simple instruction sheet detailing how to make this measurement: http://www.stevescustomprops.com/faq.html#How_do_I_adjust_the_Prop_shaft_engine_height_

Without a JP and the engine mounted directly to the transom using the 2nd hole The centerline of my prop shaft was originally 6.625" below the pad.
With my JP raised the prop shaft centerline is now 4 3/8" below the pad.

Weather permitting I hope to test my setup with a new stainless steel propeller next week to see how that effects things.


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## acoastalbender

1000!

.


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## frankcr

You can make the hull run in a little shallower water, but it is not designed to match a flat bottom or tunnel hull.

If it were bought as a shallow water demon, it is not designed for that. It does tend to run very flat, but also does not like to be heavily loaded towards the bow.


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## Winters97gt

Joe, where are you located at? I'd like to meet up with one of our boats and kind of pick your brain catching fish.

Thanks for extremely detailed post on your jack plate. I'm really interested to see the results. Also, thanks for the PM. As you mentioned, I don't need any increase in performance speed since I can peg 6200rpms easily loaded(550-600 pounds of gear, passengers, fuel, ice, livewell, etc). 

If I can get the boat to run in about 3-4 inches shallower while on plane, that's what I'm looking for. I can trim up, putter out to deeper water to get up. It's just the start of many of my preferable drifts require me to get skinny and drift out to deeper water. I don't like drifting deep to shallow since our boats don't get as skinny as others, and we don't have the low end to blow out either with the 60 4 stroke.


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## joebucko

Winters
I am in Colleyville TX which is just West of the DFW airport.
You should be able to pick up about 3" max on the running depth with your current propeller.


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## FlatsCatFL

*Boat Covers for Mako Pro 17 Skiff*

Hello all, for those of you who may be fence sitting on buying a trailerable boat cover, listen up.

BOATCOVERSDIRECT.COM is having a holiday sale. I just gave my pro skiff an early holiday gift - a U.S. made Carver trailerable boat cover with integrated engine cover for about $250.00. This purchase was for a Sundura (Sunbrella's cousin) 7 year warranted product, a 12 strap tie down kit, stow bag and free shipping.

Tight lines and warmer weather!! Cheers!


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## frankcr

We have the boat fitted with the 30 HP engine and no console, and I have begun playing with the prop. The standard prop furnished is the 9.5 x 11 in Pitch aluminum. Acceleration is a bit sluggish.

I have compared this prop with the 9.75 x 9.5 in Pitch to get a little more acceleration and for heavier loads ( 4 people).

So far with little time on the water, the results are interesting and may be of interest to others. I plan to run more tests, but the comparison so far is interesting.

The 9.5 in prop indicated about 11% reduction in speed due to slip when compared to theoretical speed. The 11 in P is very close if not the same after water testing.

With about 650 lbs people and gear, the 9.5 in ran 23 - 25 MPH with decent acceleration for such a large boat turning 6,000 - 6100 RPM.

The 11 in P with about 450 lbs people and gear ran about 25 - 26 MPH with poorer acceleration and 5700+ RPM. Had the run been longer, it would have been a MPH more no doubt, but water conditions were not the best for prop testing.

We plan to use the 11 in prop for fishing with my wife and myself and the 9.5 in when we have company aboard. The boat will actually troll sufficiently slow for trout trolling.

The rated RPM range is 5250 to 6250 RPM, so the 11 in runs at roughly mid range and the 9.5 in runs near the upper limit of recommended RPM.

After losing a prop hub, we bought an available 10 in P Michigan Wheel which provided unbelievable high MPG but ventilated unless trimmed exactly right. It would serve as a spare, but I would not recommend anyone purchase one.

We are at sea level and use gasoline with no alcohol in it. Speeds are GPS measured and the RPM is read on a TinyTach.

One characteristic of the hull is that it runs very flat and the power trim will not lift the bow very much but is useful in preventing porpoising. The hull does not like to be loaded with too much weight towards the bow, and it runs very dry in the river chop we experience in the waters where we fish. Altogether we are very well pleased with the rig.

Our Bass Pro has a manager who is very familiar with boats and motors and requested a copy of the calculation I did with the different props. He was interested in our findings to compare against the factory furnished test data which are evidently based on a lightly loaded boat run for top speed. Overall performance with a loaded boat is more important to us than a lightly loaded rig. If you get caught in the rough stuff, you want more acceleration than the factory prop pick delivers.


----------



## dosseric

My friend just bought a 17 w/ 60 merc 4 stroke.

*what prop does he need?* He wants something that performs well loaded down and doesn't blow out. Hole shot and handling is preferable and top speed isn't a priority.


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## OldManOwen

dosseric said:


> My friend just bought a 17 w/ 60 merc 4 stroke.
> 
> *what prop does he need?* He wants something that performs well loaded down and doesn't blow out. Hole shot and handling is preferable and top speed isn't a priority.


If it came with the factory 4 blade aluminum I think he will be happy, no reason to change it.


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## Winters97gt

A few pics from SPI. Saturday, a buddy and me put 65 pounds of Reds and Trout in the boat. Boat ran great without water after launch loaded, 37-38mph maxed, then about 34mph when my infamous hull full of water after about 6-7 hours on the water.









Today was a bit rougher with the front coming through. Decided to hit up the channel and go by myself. Nailed about 15 Mangrove Snapper quick, decided to go deeper for a big fish. He did a jump, went for the pilings, and snapped off 60lb leader like it was nothing. ****, again... 2 trips in a row.

The ride in from Brownsville across Mesquite Flats, then across the ICW back to my watering hole, Coconuts, was a bit interesting.


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## joebucko

Winters
Those are some beautiful fish along with some impressive performance numbers from your boat. As soon as the weather clears here I'll be back on the water to test another propeller. I tried a Powertech SCB3 stainless steel propeller last week but it did not do any better than my aluminum prop. 
Merry Christmas to All You All.

Capn JoeBob


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## frankcr

Man, Winters, what catches! If we hit the fish like that, you would not be able to put up with me for the bragging.

Cannot believe that the the hull takes on water like it does. That is a shame and needs to be corrected for you. There is no excuse for that.


----------



## Jonc

*leaning Posts?*

Hey Guys... Happy Holidays to all! Any of you ever consider or have purchased a leaning post for behind the helm? I fished with that massive cooler one time and tossed it in the garage as it just takes up too much space in my opinion. Considering a smaller leaning post for obvious reasons and thought Id toss it out there to all of you.

Jonc


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## KeithD.

I wanted to let everyone know that we rotated our livewell pump as someone else had done in an earlier post but it did not help. Pump is still air locked. I will be taking it back in and will let everyone know if we come up with a solution.


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## FlyItAll

Those are some nice fish, thanks for sharing the pics! I wish I knew how you were hitting those speeds, the most I can manage with the stock 3 blade aluminum prop is 33-34!


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## Winters97gt

FlyItAll said:


> Those are some nice fish, thanks for sharing the pics! I wish I knew how you were hitting those speeds, the most I can manage with the stock 3 blade aluminum prop is 33-34!


Density Altitude, like with other motors, effects actual power. It's like comparing your automobile in 100* vs a dry 45* morning. It's got more pep to it. Also, the motor definitely got stronger after the break in.

I had a good buddy go fishing with me in June a few weeks after I got the boat. He went with me in November, and told me it felt like a completely different boat up top.

I'm also over the recommended RPMs a tad, which isn't the best thing. But it's hard not to top the boat out on GPS once a trip.


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## Winters97gt

Thanks Joe and Frank. 

I'll be interested in seeing how the new prop does, Joe. Keep us updated!


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## joebucko

Winters
At this point I just hope I can get close to the performance of your boat with your Mercury Vengeance prop.


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## Winters97gt

It does run very well, but when water starts to get in it, it's a dog to get up on plane. The freaking bow is so high. I usually have my passenger sit on the front deck facing back so they are safe but add weight up there since I don't have a trolling motor/battery there.

The run from Port Isabel to the end off the ship channel is 20 miles. I passed a Shallow Sport with a 150 on the way back. By the time I got back, he had faded so far I could barely see him.


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## frankcr

Keithd, check out my previous posts regarding the pump in this thread. I played with pumps for about 40 years and they are not the mystery people think they are. A centrifugal pump must have a flooded suction in order to work.

With so many playing with props, would anyone want the formulas for comparing the differences changing pitches make?

With 30 HP I have determined that the slip is almost exactly 11%. It would be interesting if that changed with more horsepower but I doubt it would.

Changing prop designs and amount of cupping would still have to be arrived at by testing though.

It is mighty nice to be back on the water after my back operation, so we hope to run the dickens out of the boat.


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## FlyItAll

Frank- Glad you are back on the water! I know from experience what back problems can do. Good luck with your boat. 
I would be interested in any prop equations you have. So far I am operating with the stock 3 blade aluminum. I have the boat rigged like I want it and the motor is well broken in. I carry 12 gallons of gass in the rear and have a trolling motor and group 27 battery up front. I plan to get another prop and make the stock prop my spare. Presently, I can turn about 6200 with just me in the boat and about 6000 with 2 people. Don't know which way to go yet, but will probably step up to SS.


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## frankcr

Formula is Pitch x RPM x Gear Ratio = Theoretical MPH
1056

Calculate gear ratio, mine is 1.92:1 which is 1/1.92= 0.5208

Use a known operating point measured by your pitch, tach and GPS. Mine was 9.5 in, 6,000 RPM, 25 MPH

Run formula using RPM and gear ratio with the prop pitch

9.5 x 6,000 x .5208  = 28.1 MPH
1056

Correct for slip using actual divided by theoretical 25/28.1 = .8897 % 0r 11 % slip (100-89)

1 inch pitch change should change RPM by 150 to 200 RPM

I went from 9.5 to 11 in pitch which equates to a difference of 225 to 300 RPM
which would be 5775 - 5700 RPM expected.

Test results with the 11 in pitch prop gave a RPM of 5700+ .

If you change prop design or material, the formula will not work out. If you change pitch only on a prop of the same design, the formula is very accurate.

Let me know if you have any questions.


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## joebucko

Here is some information to go along with Frankcr's math. This is for the Mercury 4 stroke engines(not Bigfoot)

HP Gear ratio RPM Range
30 1.92 5250-6250
40 2.0 5500-6000
50 1.83 5500-6000
60 1.83 5500-6000

Of all the reports so far Winters97gt (60hp) is getting the best top end performance with his boat 6200rpm @ 37mph (11% slip). He is running the Mercury Vengeance Stainless Steel 3 blade prop 10.5"x13P.
I don't believe he has a jackplate at this time.

The Mercury BlackMax 3 blade aluminum 10.375x14P 5800rpm @ 34/35mph (14% slip)

One important point to keep in mind is the air temperature. As the temperature rises the WOT rpm will drop=less power to the prop. The difference between 90+deg and 70-degs can be 200-300 rpms. You might want to consider having two props with 1" difference in Pitch and using the smaller pitch in the heat of the summer.

Finally, not all propellers are created equal. Even seemingly identical props (same maker, size,pitch) can perform somewhat differently under the same conditions. The only way to know for sure is to run the prop on your boat, with your typical load.


----------



## frankcr

The higher slip with that BlackMax is a bummer, so it looks like cupping or some other tweek might help that rig. Does the hub line up with the gear housing diameter? 

On the 30 HP, the slip was close to the same at 11% nominal with both Mercury props, so I am satisfied with the performance. It is possible to get slip in the 10% range I understand, but how to get there would requre a lot of experimenting.

Good info, joebucko.


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## joebucko

Frankcr
The hub on the aluminum blackmax lines up perfectly with the gear housing. I suspect that most of these boats come equipped with either a 13P or 14P 3 blade blackmax unless you pay for the upgrade to stainless. It is a very good compromise prop for the boat as it performs well for most situations. I believe it is just a bit less efficient than a comparable stainless.

As soon as the weather permits I will be testing a Powertech NREB3 13P stainless propeller on my boat. It should be very similar to Winters97gt Vengeance. As reported earlier the Powertech SCB3 14P was a disappointment .

Merry Christmas Everybody


----------



## FlyItAll

Thanks guys for the data on props and your own performance. Its kinda fun to play around with the numbers and compare performance among our boats. I think I'll have to recheck my numbers the next time I'm out, I am calculating 19% slip which seems too high compared to your numbers. Perhaps my 12 gallons of fuel sitting in the rear on the port side is causing some of this difference.
Thanks to everyone for all the information posted this year, it has helped me greatly in setting up my boat.
Merry Christmas!


----------



## Winters97gt

Merry Christmas Pro Skiff owners! Cook em if you got em time!


----------



## frankcr

Any way you could get a bag or two of redfish fillets to Georgia this afternoon?

Merry Christmas to all you good people and my wishes that next year will be even better that this year for you and your families.


----------



## shoreboy6

Anyone put a hydrofoil stabilizer on? See any benefit to it?


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## frankcr

Found a boat test at 




They found 34.9 MPH at 5800 RPM with a three blade, 10 x 13 in aluminum prop in their test.

13" Pitch x 5800 RPM x .546 gear ratio / 1056 constant = 38.98 MPH theoretical

34.9 / 38.98 = .895

1 - .895 = 10.5% slip Which is close to what I found on our boat.

If you are finding more slip than that, something is wrong. They were evidently loaded with just one person and probably 6 gal of fuel.


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## MakoSkiff

For those of you interested saw a couple of. 2014s skiffs. Here are the changes the lines from bilge pump and as rotor are now clear I guess to see if there is any air lock. aerator pump is. 600gph. They are using a heavier duty trailer made of galvanized steel and with 14 inch wheels which doesn't make sense. Trailer is a complete over kill. It can handle like two skiffs and it's and 1-2 inches taller. This trailer can handle a fully dressed. 18 lts. The easy pick on transom has 3 holes drilled on the top to let air out so the pump doesn't lock up. See pics


----------



## MakoSkiff

Bilge area. Still no way to drain lower bilge Tara without pulling boat out of water. Hopefully water in hull issues resolved


----------



## MakoSkiff

Livewell plumbing


----------



## MakoSkiff

Trailer


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## MakoSkiff

17 on a trailer


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## MakoSkiff

Trailer for 17


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## joebucko

Thanks for the pictures MakoSkiff.
Other than the three holes drilled in the Easy pickup the changes are a little baffling. Clear hoses won't solve anything and the taller steel trailer would be a problem for me as I have trouble launching on shallow ramps with my 13" tires.


----------



## aparrey

Hey everyone, I have been following this forum for a while, I guess it's time I start contributing. I have had my pro 17 for a year and a half and have had no issues except the livewell pump (which I am waiting for kite boarder to post a picture of the fix). I have taken it out hundreds of times since I have had it and have taken it 10 miles out grouper fishing. I primarily fish saltwater flats. Great boat for the price. I have the 3 blade ss vengeance with 60 hp and get about 35 mph. 55lb minn Kota, stick it anchor system mounted to the transom. Really would have rather gone with the 18' but this was much more affordable. For the future I would like a poling platform and talk to someone who has put in a leaning post instead of that cooler. I plan on building some rod storage like on the 18' lts. Also besides the PVC mod for the rod holders in the cc has anyone figured another way out from keep your rods from klanking together?


----------



## Jonc

*Leaning post*

Aparrey.... Check out the stingray leaning posts on e-bay which are sold and shipped from a cycle shop in California. I have a 16 skiff and that cooler is way oversized for that craft.

The posts are 29" wide x 14" deep which fit perfectly with the console design on the pro skiffs. Seems to be a pretty well built post at a very reasonable price, $375 plus freight. Frame is coated aluminum and not stainless but I have the same aircraft grade aluminum product on my inflatable drift boat frame and it's stood the test of time. I ordered one last week and I'll post a picture with comments when it arrives in a week or so.

Happy New Years all..

Jonc


----------



## eyesneers

*Forward storage compartment*

Has anyone tried to waterproof the front storage compartment? Everything in there gets wet and I was wondering if anyone has addressed it and how. I know there is a big gap between the bottom of the boat and the back edge of the compartment on the back side- but does anyone think water splashes in from the front somehow? I keep lifejackets and such in there and it would be nice if they didn't get damp and mildewy.


----------



## MakoSkiff

aparrey said:


> Hey everyone, I have been following this forum for a while, I guess it's time I start contributing. I have had my pro 17 for a year and a half and have had no issues except the livewell pump (which I am waiting for kite boarder to post a picture of the fix). I have taken it out hundreds of times since I have had it and have taken it 10 miles out grouper fishing. I primarily fish saltwater flats. Great boat for the price. I have the 3 blade ss vengeance with 60 hp and get about 35 mph. 55lb minn Kota, stick it anchor system mounted to the transom. Really would have rather gone with the 18' but this was much more affordable. For the future I would like a poling platform and talk to someone who has put in a leaning post instead of that cooler. I plan on building some rod storage like on the 18' lts. Also besides the PVC mod for the rod holders in the cc has anyone figured another way out from keep your rods from klanking together?


 Hey Apparey, didn't you post on another forum (microskiff.com) about a 1.5 yrs ago. i also posted on that thread(Mako) regarding my water in hull issues. I think you mentioned you were having some issues with livewell. Glad to know to know your boat has been flawless. Congrats.


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## frankcr

I have no bait well and make sure the hull drain plug is sealed each trip. Other than condensation, I have never had water in the hull.

Other than MakoSkiff's hull, has anyone else ever had water in the hull not from a bait well system? There was a report of a faulty cable chase, but that was understandable and should not have happened (factory defect).


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## aparrey

MakoSkiff said:


> Hey Apparey, didn't you post on another forum (microskiff.com) about a 1.5 yrs ago. i also posted on that thread(Mako) regarding my water in hull issues. I think you mentioned you were having some issues with livewell. Glad to know to know your boat has been flawless. Congrats.


Yeah I did post on that forum a while back about my livewell and I am still waiting for a fix..... Had my boat in twice and they have not fixed the problem which is why I am patiently waiting to see kiteboarders pics of his fix with the new vent installed on the system. Other than that the only other concern that had been a PIA is when jacking the trailer up the handle is so close to the bow of the boat I sometimes jam my knuckles. Any solutions??


----------



## joebucko

aparrey
Can you post a picture of your jack problem? I had a minor issue with the jack handle and my winch but fixed it by adjusting the winch. Do you have a folding tongue on your trailer?


----------



## aparrey

eyesneers said:


> Has anyone tried to waterproof the front storage compartment? Everything in there gets wet and I was wondering if anyone has addressed it and how. I know there is a big gap between the bottom of the boat and the back edge of the compartment on the back side- but does anyone think water splashes in from the front somehow? I keep lifejackets and such in there and it would be nice if they didn't get damp and mildewy.


No water in the hull here either, other than waves that I would take over the bow, and even when I do my front storage stays very dry. I usually will store my jacket or sweatshirt up there and have no problems with them getting wet. I would check your seal around the whole bow of the boat where the deck connects to the bow. I have read some previous posts about it not being sealed. If that is the case just tape it off and run a nice bead of marine sealent (5200) around the whole front of the deck, then check the rubber gasket seal on your front hatch. That should be the only way water could be getting up there.


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## aparrey

joebucko said:


> aparrey
> Can you post a picture of your jack problem? I had a minor issue with the jack handle and my winch but fixed it by adjusting the winch. Do you have a folding tongue on your trailer?


Yeah it is a folding tongue, cant get a picture right now. But it is basically when my hand is on the handle and when I jack the boat up or down every time I crank around my knuckles will hit the bow of the boat. I will try and get a pic soon.


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## frankcr

Joebucko, the holes will vent the Easy pickup but will not vent the pump. Under way, the pressure on the inlet of the pump may force water to displace the air trapped in the pump and allow water to be furnished to the impeller.

I have the same problem at the ramp we use as you do. It is barely possible to submerge the boat enough to get it off the present trailer and keep the tires above the water, so the higher trailer would present problems. Keeping my truck out of salt water ranks high on my list.


----------



## joebucko

Frankcr
I pretty much solved my problem of shallow ramps by installing Starboard bunk slicks on my trailer. I was having to power the boat off the trailer but now all I have to do is tie a rope on it, back into the water and touch the brakes. It slides right off. Bought a single piece of Starboard 24" x 54" and made the 8 slicks I needed(2 for each bunk). My bunks are probably shorter than yours at 108"/9' as mine is one of the first production trailers. Of course you MUST remember to keep the winch strap tight until you get down the ramp to the water.


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## FlyItAll

Wow JoeBucko, what a beautiful job! I installed some of the 3" wide boat slicks from Cabelas and planned to install more of the same, but after seeing what you did I may scrap the boat slicks and do it your way. Thanks for the photos!


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## frankcr

Beautiful job. You have full support on the bunks for the hull with a slick sliding surface.

The ramp we normally use is right on the doable edge of working with the carpet bunks. If we run into other ramps where getting the boat off the trailer is a problem, I will modify the trailer as you did.

We watched a guy with a similar trailer at a ramp we were thinking of using, and he backed down to where salt water was near the axle on his truck. That ramp is out as far as we are concerned, so we will check the slope on other ramps. If they do not have enough slope, we will do the mod.


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## joebucko

I used 1/2" thick Starboard for the bunk slicks and I cut them 3" wide. I bought the Starboard from a vendor on Ebay who sells scrap from his cabinet shop.


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## catchandreleasesome

*Mako 17*

I am a Mako owner and bought my Pro Skiff 17 w/ 60hp in May 2013. I found this site three or four days ago and wish I would have found it sooner. Some of you have made some pretty neat mods to you boats. I have gotten through about page 51 so far.

By the way, did I mention I love this boat! I can go practically anywhere on this boat.

However, I have had a few minor issues just like most of you. My BPS has been real good though. I had to replace two of the plastice latches on the cooler, my bait well doens't work all the time, and my seat pad above the bait well is wearing from rubbing when I open and close it. I'm glad I found this site because I can get that fixed under warranty, where as I may not have noticed it if it were not for your posts.

Other than that the boat has been great! I haven't done much to it yet because of finances except fish a whole lot.. I did get an extra 6 gal tank, but I am about to get a 12 gal tank to give myself more room. Hopefully, I will be getting a trolling motor in a couple months. I just bought some rod holders from BPS because one of you posted a pic in the first couple pages of how you attached it to the back of the cooler seat.


----------



## Jonc

*Catchandreleasome*

Welcome aboard! Good group of guys on this thread and most all will offer experiences and suggestions to help each other out.

Jonc


----------



## catchandreleasesome

*bottom drain hole*

I have read some of you post about having large amounts of water coming out the bottom drain, and I've only read thru page 6 so sorry if someone has already mentioned this.

My boat was draining several gallons after every trip when I got it and took it back to bass pro and the service manager said he believes it's the seal around the drain. At high speeds if the seal is not good it can force water in. The tech removed the two screws and the sealant was just goo. It either did not set up or mako didn't use 5200 on the lower drain plug seal. He put some 5200 on and screwed it back on. I let it sit for 24 hours before putting in the water and now I only get a few drops out of the bottom drain and that's on rough days when a lot of water may come on board.

Again, sorry if someone already mentioned this.


----------



## Winters97gt

Not that I'm contributing anything to this thread, but just pulled a 19ft Dargel with a 150 on the back. I was hitting 38mph and got a video of it that I'll post later.


----------



## Winters97gt

Ahh, not HD. Need wifi, will try later.

I'd still like to get the water out if the hull, move the battery forward and hang a 90 etec on this sucker and have an awesome hole shot and probably hit 45mph.


----------



## OldManOwen

A 90 Etec on this boat would be AWESOME lol.


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## Jonc

*Leaning post*

Hey guys..

Pic of the stingray leaning post I mentioned earlier. Aluminum construction is high quality but the upholstery is ok but still a great value for the money. Opens up a ton of room in the back of the boat and has room for my yeti 20 underneath.

Jonc


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## aparrey

Hey jonc that leaning post is sweet!!! That's exactly what I had in mind for mine. Did you do the install? If so how did it go? Did you have to cut an access hole to install it and what kind of hardware was used to attach it to the deck? Sorry for all the questions, but could you also post a pic of it with the cooler under so I can get an idea of how much room there is? Thanks in advance.


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## Jonc

*Leaning post*

Aparrey..

As you can see I've yet to install it but mounted it on a piece of wood to play around with spacing from the steering wheel first. Each leg has a triangular foot with three screw holes. They include these huge 3" long x .25" stainless course thread screws which are too long for our boats. I plan on penetrating the deck plus 3/8" and applying 3-m marine adhesive as their directions in the screw holes and also under each leg base. Obviously we have no way to nut and bolt these things but I can't imagine how or why 3-m and 12 screws would ever allow it to come loose.

They also sell rocket launchers to attach to the back rail but since I fly fish they'd be useless. Interior measurements from each outer leg is 20 3/8" x 14" x 30" if you're considering a cooler. I checked this morning and they only had 3 left on e-bay for the $375 price.

Jonc


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## frankcr

Please let us know how thick the fiberglass is in the floor. I know the sidewalls are pretty thin and hope the floor is thicker.


----------



## aparrey

Jonc said:


> Aparrey..
> 
> As you can see I've yet to install it but mounted it on a piece of wood to play around with spacing from the steering wheel first. Each leg has a triangular foot with three screw holes. They include these huge 3" long x .25" stainless course thread screws which are too long for our boats. I plan on penetrating the deck plus 3/8" and applying 3-m marine adhesive as their directions in the screw holes and also under each leg base. Obviously we have no way to nut and bolt these things but I can't imagine how or why 3-m and 12 screws would ever allow it to come loose.
> 
> They also sell rocket launchers to attach to the back rail but since I fly fish they'd be useless. Interior measurements from each outer leg is 20 3/8" x 14" x 30" if you're considering a cooler. I checked this morning and they only had 3 left on e-bay for the $375 price.
> Jonc


Backing plates??


----------



## joebucko

Jonc
Nice piece of equipment. I really like the look. I normally sit on the cooler but probably need to see how it feels to run standing up. As far as the fasteners are concerned you might want to look at stainless steel well nuts or stainless hollow wall anchors(not toggle bolts). You will need to know the thickness of the floor in the areas you drill but both of these are expanding anchors and should provide a more secure attachment than screws. Definitely use 5200 as well. If you are not familiar with them just google them and look at the images.


----------



## FlyItAll

Jonc- I fly fish as well and was just admiring the fly rod holders you made. Is that standard pvc? I was just about to buy some from Signature Marine for $30 each, but you've got me thinking about trying to make some like yours. Any suggestions?


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## Jonc

JoeB, good idea.. Actually we use the new plastic zip wall anchors on projects and they're amazingly strong, will hold up to 100 lbs. each so I may go that route. Thanks for that. Honestly, the first thing I did when I bought the boat was ditch the cooler and I've never driven that boat seated. It's designed nicely to stand and drive and to me it's just easier to control and the leaning post just opened up valuable stern space.

I'll install it next week frankr and will be back to you on the deck thickness.

Flyitall." The others will disagree but on the fly is fishing at its best. I actually got the PVC tube idea from JoeB way back in the thread. The only problem is you'll need to cut the width to accommodate each reel size you typically carry.
Normally I just take a 4&6 weight with me up here as we don't get in the game fish way up here unless we're in the streams and small rivers and that's what the inflatable drift boat is for. I also bought a few of the rubber twist ties they sell at bass pro, cabelas, gander, etc. and I use them to secure the fly rods to the stainless wind screen grab rail while under way. With 8-11' rods stowed vertical it's about the only way to keep em safe.

I'll let you all now the end result and thanks guys for the comments.

Jonc


----------



## joebucko

FlyItAll
Here is a link to the original post on the rod holders
http://2coolfishing.com/ttmbforum/showthread.php?t=416841&page=2


----------



## FlyItAll

Jonc, Joe- Thanks for the info on rodholders. I've never tried to sculpt PVC before, but I'll give it a go!


----------



## Winters97gt

Mako Skiff Strikes again. 115 pounds of fish today, 2 guys. Half will go to a homeless/rehab center across from my high rise apartment in downtown Houston, the other half for a big fry!


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*Great catch and great humanitarian gesture*

Winters97gt, you and your mates are really dialed in over there in your home waters. The fish need to be scared when you're on the water, lol.

Also, my applause to you for your humanitarian efforts to help those in need.


----------



## joebucko

Winters97gt
Congratulations AGAIN on an impressive catch . That is literally a boat load of fish. Can I assume you are icing them down in the Mako cooler?

What is the APP you are using track your speed? I normally use the GPS on my Humminbird but want to check it against the APP you are using. I tested a Powertech NREB 13P stainless propeller last week and got good results. Hit my fastest speed so far at 37mph with almost no porpoising. When the weather permits I am going back out to try some different engine height settings and an anti-cavitation plate I made to see how it affects things.


----------



## rkerhs409

How many miles per gallon are you getting with these new motors?


----------



## FlatsCatFL

joebucko said:


> Winters97gt
> Congratulations AGAIN on an impressive catch . That is literally a boat load of fish. Can I assume you are icing them down in the Mako cooler?
> 
> What is the APP you are using track your speed? I normally use the GPS on my Humminbird but want to check it against the APP you are using. I tested a Powertech NREB 13P stainless propeller last week and got good results. Hit my fastest speed so far at 37mph with almost no porpoising. When the weather permits I am going back out to try some different engine height settings and an anti-cavitation plate I made to see how it affects things.


JoeBucko, I wish I had your shop and the TOOLS!! that go with it. As always, I look forward to your continued efforts to dial in your jack plated rig. Cheers!


----------



## Winters97gt

FlatsCatFL said:


> JoeBucko, I wish I had your shop and the TOOLS!! that go with it. As always, I look forward to your continued efforts to dial in your jack plated rig. Cheers!


Amen, that's why I posted that I'd like to fish with Joe, pick his brain and show him how I run this boat and how hard I run it everyweek for advice. But my problems started with trailer lights going out before the boat even got dunk in the ramp it's first time out.

Short reply, thanks for the compliments on the fish. Still out of town, I'll reply tomorrow night or Tues with more detail.


----------



## Winters97gt

I just dropped the boat off with Pete at Tracker Marine in Harlingen. Had enough with the crappy work from Bass Pro in Houston. For all you other guys also experiencing water in the hull, I'll report what they find. I feel pretty confident in him. Pete wasn't eager to push me out the door and shot the chit about boats with me. The only way I'm gonna keep this boat is if they properly fix my issues that Bass Pro couldn't.


----------



## frankcr

Pulling for you. There has to be a reason for the water in that hull and it should have been repaired by Mako/Bass Pro.


----------



## FlyItAll

*Demo Props?*

Have any of you found a place that will provide "demo props" for our boats?

I have the 10.5x13P aluminum prop that came on my 60hp skiff. I am turning 6200 WOT and getting 34mph with just me and about 180 pounds of gear in "Freshwater". This works out to 19% slip which is twice what some of you are getting. I'm beginning to think the fresh Vs. Salt may be at least part of the difference. With these numbers, I am thinking that a 10.5x15P SS with some cupping is where I need to go for freshwater. I am running with the motor in the second hole and plan to move it up before I play with props. Sure would be nice to try a few props before buying.


----------



## frankcr

I have had a local dealer allow me to try a prop and return it for another as long as the prop looked new when returned. In other words to try it for a few runs staying away from anything which would damage it. Any damage and I paid for the prop. Check with a prop supplier and see if he will offer you the same deal when purchasing a prop.


----------



## Winters97gt

Ok, 

Pete called me back from tracker marine in Harlingen, and all I can say is "wow". Talk about customer service. He explained everything to me that he has done to the boat. A lot more than this, but I'll try to make it short. He first filled the hull with water, tilted the boat back and forth and found just a tiny drip around the hull plug that twists in. He took the 2 bolts off, inspected it very closely. After a while, he found that it wasn't drilled correctly, and there was not near enough sealant. He re drilled it, re sealed everything. Today, he took the boat out to the water for an hour and tested it. He said not a drop. 

Then, he scraped off all my ghetto rig caulking that I covered when I removed the EZ scooper. He reinstalled a new one. He fixed my bilge with better connectors "how it should be done" as he said, fixed the lights, and fixed the rear deck on the boat. Just waiting on the brake line parts to come in. 

He explained all this to me for about 25 minutes on the phone before I had to cut him off so I could chow quick and coach another class of kids.

All in all, this has been light years difference than what I've experienced at the Katy location. If you're ever in the South Texas area, I wouldn't hesitate to let him warranty your boat or even work on it if it's out of warranty. 

The bad. I tore my prop up really bad on a log at the end of the ship channel Sunday. I was puttering around barges being moved and didn't see it. Heard the sound of it being chewed up. Killed the motor, and saw the log behind me with concrete attached to it like it had been anchored in the ground at some time. The boat still hit 35 with me and a full load back, but it's worthless. 

Joe, got your PM. You can have the prop if it could be cleaned up, but I doubt it will work. I have to buy another one so your welcome to it.


----------



## DCAVA

Winters97gt said:


> Ok,
> 
> Pete called me back from tracker marine in Harlingen, and all I can say is "wow". Talk about customer service. He explained everything to me that he has done to the boat. A lot more than this, but I'll try to make it short. He first filled the hull with water, tilted the boat back and forth and found just a tiny drip around the hull plug that twists in. He took the 2 bolts off, inspected it very closely. After a while, he found that it wasn't drilled correctly, and there was not near enough sealant. He re drilled it, re sealed everything. Today, he took the boat out to the water for an hour and tested it. He said not a drop.
> 
> Then, he scraped off all my ghetto rig caulking that I covered when I removed the EZ scooper. He reinstalled a new one. He fixed my bilge with better connectors "how it should be done" as he said, fixed the lights, and fixed the rear deck on the boat. Just waiting on the brake line parts to come in.
> 
> He explained all this to me for about 25 minutes on the phone before I had to cut him off so I could chow quick and coach another class of kids.
> 
> All in all, this has been light years difference than what I've experienced at the Katy location. If you're ever in the South Texas area, I wouldn't hesitate to let him warranty your boat or even work on it if it's out of warranty.
> 
> The bad. I tore my prop up really bad on a log at the end of the ship channel Sunday. I was puttering around barges being moved and didn't see it. Heard the sound of it being chewed up. Killed the motor, and saw the log behind me with concrete attached to it like it had been anchored in the ground at some time. The boat still hit 35 with me and a full load back, but it's worthless.
> 
> Joe, got your PM. You can have the prop if it could be cleaned up, but I doubt it will work. I have to buy another one so your welcome to it.


Pete is a stand up fellow, he had his mechanics scrape and reinstall my side rear trailer lights while we shot the bull the other day, he will take care of you, and he knows all about this thread...


----------



## frankcr

You know, the first place to look for a leak should have been the hull drain plug. Whoever supposedly serviced your boat when you reported a leak was not too swift at the least or useless at the worst. Hope that fixes the problem for you.

Sorry to hear about the prop. I have tried to chew up stumps before, and it sure can ruin your day.


----------



## Winters97gt

DCAVA said:


> Pete is a stand up fellow, he had his mechanics scrape and reinstall my side rear trailer lights while we shot the bull the other day, he will take care of you, and he knows all about this thread...


Good to know. I'll be sending a direct email to the corporate office describing my two experiences with names at each Tracker location. I also owe him a fishing trip. He said he hasn't been out fishing near as much lately, so one Sunday, I'll invite him since I fish solo most the time. Was set on getting an Shallow Stalker 206, but crunched the numbers and can't do it. The boat show is next to my house right now. Going to probably put a down payment down on this sucker. I just fish way too much right now and need something more suitable for the lower Laguna Madre and how shallow I'm used to running. So my boat I guess is officially for sale.


----------



## MakoMadness

*Jawja Boy*

Hey boys! new Mako 17cc owner here, bought mine about a month ago and have only been able to put about 2 hours on the motor because of this crappy weather. I have been reading this thread for a couple of days now and have been comparing notes. My 13 model does have the E-Z pump and the one day I was able to take it out I also had quite a bit of water in the floor. Not sure exactly where it was coming from but I did not inspect the hoses under the console (I'll make sure to do that this weekend). 
I love the mods you guys have been doing with the rod holders I am planning on doing something similar to mine and I have bookmarked the bimini top and traveling cover for a purchase later down the road. I am from Macon Georgia and plan on fishing all the lakes in my area (Lake Oconee, Lake Sinclair, Lake Eufaula, Lake Lanier, Lake Jackson, West Point Lake and Lake Seminole). Like many others this boat had everything I was looking for and thought it was a steal at the price. I still need to purchase my HDS5 and Elite 7 for the console and bow. I am planning on getting a 12 gallon tank as well. I am excited about getting it already and doing some camping and fishing this spring, oh I also have purchased and mounted the Motor Guide Xi5 wireless trolling motor, but haven't been able to use it yet. I am planning on getting it out this weekend if the weather holds out. 
I did have one question for you guys that have pulled a tube behind this boat, how do you have the ski rope tethered off? Did you have to buy something to keep the rope out of the motor? Any suggestions would be great and thanks for the great conversation on here it has helped a lot.


----------



## joebucko

Welcome MakoMadness

I use my Pro17 exclusively for fishing in North Texas lakes and love it. Here are a couple of things for you to think about as you customize your boat.

FFinder on bow. There is no wiring tube/channel between the bow and the center console so there is no way to run concealed wires for power or networking between the bow unit and console unit. I had a small ff on the bow which I powered off a small 12v 8ahr portable battery stowed under the front deck. This worked fine but I finally removed the unit and now just rely on my console mounted Humminbird. 

12gallon tank. Several of the owners on this site have installed 12 gal tanks so I am sure they can give you advice on how its working out. My boat had two 6 gallon tanks but I removed one because I realized that on my typical 4-5 hour trip I burn less than 1.5gals of fuel. Carrying the extra gas and extra 40lbs in the stern wasn't necessary.


----------



## MakoMadness

*Jawja Boy*

Hey JoeBucko, nice to meet your acquaintance, I have read quite a few of your posts and I thank you for your insight. After fishing in so many bass tournaments over the years I just can not imagine not having a graph in the front, thought about purchasing a small 12 volt lawn mower battery similar to one I used on my previous boat I think it was like $20.00 and is still running to this day (in my daughters toy corvette) I thought about mounting a small battery tray under the front deck for that. My typical tournament day consists of at least an 8 hour day pretty much running and gunning, but maybe I will try it first to see how much gas I use in a typical tournament day. This weather we have been having in Middle Georgia is crazy, but at least I can say with confidence now that there is not a huge difference between 25 degrees and 12 degrees, anything under 40 is just butt cold. 
I also wanted to post on here the reply I got from a friend of mine and very good Tracker Marine service guy at Bass pro Shop here in Macon. When I asked him about how I should break in my 60 horse Mercury he told me to ease out of the no wake area and "gun it". He told me to run that motor as if you were trying to break it. Apparently the biggest problem with breaking in the motor slowly like the Mercury people tell you to do is that the gaskets never have a chance to get hot and set in. He said when you run the motor hard the first 10 hours there is less chance of liquid (gas, oil etc..) from mixing. He said that is the most consistent thing they see on a day to day basis is bad seals in the motor, this could have been prevented if the motor was run hard the first 10 hours out. He is a pretty reputable guy out here so I plan on beating the **** out of this motor. I figure it is under warranty anyway. He did give me the Mercury sheet that tells you to break it in slowly, but he also told me to never let it set idling for more than 5 minutes at a time. Anyway, I will let you know how it goes.


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## frankcr

I used 1/2" plastic pipe run under the rolled edge of the gunnel to install a bow light which works well. The back end goes through a hole drilled thru the gunnel and to the main battery from there. It would be easy to put a battery under the rear deck.

A battery mounted in the rear is not subject to the forces in rough water as much as if it were in the bow.


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## FlyItAll

Welcome aboard MakoMadness!
Glad you found this thread, there's a good group of guys here who are willing to share their knowledge. 
One trip I ran around most of the day at higher speeds with 4 on board and used up my 6 gallons. After that, I bought a 12 gallon tank, just in case! The tank I bought, barely fits under the back deck and I just slide it forward a few inches to fill it. Typically though, if I am fishing, I rarely burn 2 gallons at my local lakes. A couple of guys discussed pulling tubes and the setup they use so you'll be able to find that in the thread. I also had a few problems with water getting places it shouldn't, but the solutions are straight forward and there is plenty of advice on this topic!


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## wag1551

MakoMadness said:


> I did have one question for you guys that have pulled a tube behind this boat, how do you have the ski rope tethered off? Did you have to buy something to keep the rope out of the motor? Any suggestions would be great and thanks for the great conversation on here it has helped a lot.


MakoMadness:
For pulling a tube, I got a tow rope and tow harness, both of which float. I had no problems.
http://http://www.westmarine.com/we...oreNum=51101&subdeptNum=51115&classNum=51116#

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...oreNum=51101&subdeptNum=51115&classNum=51116#

The video is of the Pro Skiff 16 I had for a couple of weeks before I traded it for a 17.


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## frankcr

MakoMadness, I am also a cracker but from the Savannah area. I found this site when I wanted to know more about our Mako, but the real prize was finding the great people posting here.

You should be well satisfied with your boat and the lakes in middle Georgia are a great place to use it. I think the best way to describe the skiffs is that they are adaptable for many uses.


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## rgourley11

MakoMadness said:


> Hey boys! new Mako 17cc owner here, bought mine about a month ago and have only been able to put about 2 hours on the motor because of this crappy weather. I have been reading this thread for a couple of days now and have been comparing notes. My 13 model does have the E-Z pump and the one day I was able to take it out I also had quite a bit of water in the floor. Not sure exactly where it was coming from but I did not inspect the hoses under the console (I'll make sure to do that this weekend).
> I love the mods you guys have been doing with the rod holders I am planning on doing something similar to mine and I have bookmarked the bimini top and traveling cover for a purchase later down the road. I am from Macon Georgia and plan on fishing all the lakes in my area (Lake Oconee, Lake Sinclair, Lake Eufaula, Lake Lanier, Lake Jackson, West Point Lake and Lake Seminole). Like many others this boat had everything I was looking for and thought it was a steal at the price. I still need to purchase my HDS5 and Elite 7 for the console and bow. I am planning on getting a 12 gallon tank as well. I am excited about getting it already and doing some camping and fishing this spring, oh I also have purchased and mounted the Motor Guide Xi5 wireless trolling motor, but haven't been able to use it yet. I am planning on getting it out this weekend if the weather holds out.
> I did have one question for you guys that have pulled a tube behind this boat, how do you have the ski rope tethered off? Did you have to buy something to keep the rope out of the motor? Any suggestions would be great and thanks for the great conversation on here it has helped a lot.


If you ran your live-well the water may have come from it. The cushion covering the livewell does not seal very good and if your running the livewell nozzle wide open in auto the drain can not keep up. Adjust the nozzle to fill slower. i also glued another gasket on top of the gasket already there. Had to move back rest up about 2" I believe. This help stop the problem completely.


----------



## eyesneers

I posted earlier about tubing with my pro17- my biggest piece of advise is get a towable booster ball that goes 1/2 way between the boat and the tube. It keeps the rope out of the wake and really helps when trying to "jump the wake". I towed with 200+lbs on the tube and two adults in the boat.


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## MakoMadness

Great! Thanks for all of the advice, I was hoping to get out a little this morning but we currently have a monsoon coming down, so will have to wait until tomorrow. 
I went to Bass Pro the other day to grab a battery for my trolling motor and holy ****!!! They are definitely proud of their batteries, the cheapest one they had was $159.00 and that was the Bass Pro name brand. I used to use one from Academy on my old boat, think I will go pick up another one for $80.00. Thanks again for the great advice I will post some pics tomorrow afternoon if we can get out to the lake.


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## rgourley11

MakoMadness said:


> Great! Thanks for all of the advice, I was hoping to get out a little this morning but we currently have a monsoon coming down, so will have to wait until tomorrow.
> I went to Bass Pro the other day to grab a battery for my trolling motor and holy ****!!! They are definitely proud of their batteries, the cheapest one they had was $159.00 and that was the Bass Pro name brand. I used to use one from Academy on my old boat, think I will go pick up another one for $80.00. Thanks again for the great advice I will post some pics tomorrow afternoon if we can get out to the lake.


If you got a Tractor supply they have some good deals on Batterys


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## joebucko

*Mako Pro17 Skiff jackplate and propeller options*

I have a Mako Pro17 CC with 60HP Mercury 4 stroke. I installed a Jackplate several months ago in an attempt to see if I could coach a little more performance from the boat.

*JackPlate
*Adding a jackplate to the Mako Pro17 has very few advantages relative to overall performance. The only two advantages I have been able to determine are: (1)it makes engine height adjustments very simple and (2) it allows the engine to be raised 2"-3" above the original factory setting which might be an advantage for those fishing very skinny water. Raising the motor allowed the engine to gain 200+ rpms. However this increase height/rpm did not translate into appreciable performance improvement.

*Propellers:*
I tested 4 propellers, all 3 blade.

Without Jackplate, engine at original 2nd hole mount:
*Mercury Blackmax Aluminum: 10.375" x 13P: Good performance but tended to ventilate/cavitate a bit. WOT 6000/34MPH but porpoising occurred at WOT
*Mercury Blackmax Aluminum: 10.375" x 14P: Good overall performance with no ventilation/cavitation. 
WOT 5600/33-34mph but porpoising occurred at WOT

Jackplate installed, 4"setback and engine raised:
*Mercury Blackmax Aluminum: 10.375" x 13P: Poor performance with engine raised due to excessive ventilation/cavitation.
*Mercury Blackmax Aluminum: 10.375" x 14P: Good overall performance with little ventilation/cavitation. WOT 5900-6000/34-35mph but porpoising occurred at WOT
*Powertech Stainless Steel SCB3 14P: Poor propeller for this boat. Semi-cleaver design better suited to other hull designs.
*Powertech Stainless NREB 10.5" x 13P: Very good prop for this boat. WOT 6100-6200/37mph. No ventilation/cavitation and only slight porpoising at WOT.
*Mercury Vengeance Stainless 10.5 x 13P: I did not test this prop but a number of ProSkiff owners have them and report very good performance. Winters97gt runs one and has consistently reported top end speeds at 37MPH+. I do not believe he has a Jackplate.

*My conclusions:
*
For most of us a Jackplate provides few benefits. The addition of a Mercury Vengeance 13P or Powertech NREB13P Stainless Steel propeller can improve performance and handling about as much possible. A hydrofoil can help as well. I will post my Hydrofoil results separately.

One last observation:
Air temperature affects the performance of the Mercury 60hp engine quite a bit. Air temperature below about 75degs can add several hundred RPMs 
due to the cooler/denser air. It might be possible to run a Mercury Vengeance 14P propeller in cooler weather and pick up a little bit better top end speed switchnig to a 13P for warmer weather. I suspect a Vengeance 14P would not work very well in hot weather potentially bogging down the engine below the recommended RPM. If anyone is running a Vengeance 14P on their proskiff please let us know how it is working.


----------



## joebucko

*Mako Pro17 Skiff with hydrofoil*

The addition of a Hydrofoil can improve performance in twp areas. (1) They tend to allow a much flatter hole shot when getting on plane. This may aid those who fish shallower water as it should allow your boats to get on plane easier by reducing stern drop. (2) They can reduce/eliminate porpoising. 
At least in my case there was no impact on top end performance probably because my hydrofoil skims the top of the water when on plane.

I did not want to drill my engine's anti-cavitation plate to install a hydrofoil so I decided to make one that bolts on. I patterned mine after the Permatrim with a few mods. It is made of 1/8" aluminum plate and is cut out on the lower side to accomidate the engines existing trim tab and exhaust port.
My hydrofoil coupled with my Powertech NREB13P prop makes for the best overall performance my boat is probably capable of at 6100-6200rpm/37mph with no porpoising.


----------



## FlyItAll

Joebucko- Thanks very much for providing the detailed report on your testing! Are you an engineer? I am in the process of selecting my next prop and your data is invaluable. One question, when running with your final prop selection and attaining your best performance, did you record your motor height? I am wondering if the the top hole is the preferred position for boats with no jackplate. Thanks again and well done!


----------



## joebucko

FlyItAll
No I am not an engineer. I just learned the value of systematic accurate measurement a long time ago. I will verify the final height in the next couple of days but I believe the centerline of my prop shaft is about 5.125" below the pad of the boat. Using the prop shaft centerline to pad measure is the only consistent way to really measure engine height. Steve's Custom Props has documented an excellent method for measuring engine height. http://www.stevescustomprops.com/faq.html#How_do_I_adjust_the_Prop_shaft_engine_height_

The factory mounting is in the 2nd hole on the engine bracket. The engine bracket holes are spaced at .75" increments. When I measured my original engine height(pre-jackplate) it was 6.625". If it is now 5.125" then you could raise your engine to the 4th mounting hole. Thus raising your engine 1.5". This engine height should allow your engine anti-cavitation plate to just break the surface of the water when on plane.

Raising the engine by using the bracket is a real PITA. That is the main reason I installed the manual jackplate. Without a JP everytime you want to adjust the engine you have to remove it from the transom, raise it and reseal the transom bolts. It takes two people to do it and you are limited to the .75" increments of the bracket.

I mentioned two specific props as what I consider the best ones I found:
Powertech NREB 13P, about $200 on line, Mercury Vengeance 13P probably $280-$300 on line. There is a 3rd I forgot to mention: Quicksilver Silverado 13P. The QS is identical to the Mercury Vengeance, it is made by Mercury in the same plant and mold. They just don't spend any money advertising it so its cheaper.


----------



## MakoMadness

*Jawja Boy*

So I got the boat out yesterday (Sunday afternoon) and put another 3 hours on the motor. The boat is running great and I paid extra attention to a lot of the problems that have been posted on this thread and here are my findings. I have only been out in the boat twice now but so far no skipping of the motor. I am running a SS Vengeance that I paid extra for instead of the aluminum one that comes with it, although after thinking about it I don't understand why I didn't still get the aluminum prop since technically I still paid for it. But I digress, the motor has been running like a top no problems so far. I am getting 6000 RPM's and 35.6 MPH in full throttle with the motor slightly tilled up. I checked the boat from top to bottom no obvious cracks or dents. One thing I did notice which has been posted on here before is that the storage up on the front deck is definitely not dry, I kind of wondered that when I noticed that there are slits at the bottom of it for water to drain out. The boat is VERY stable and solid, I am about 280 lbs and I walked all over that thing front and back and the tilt on either side is minimal. The rod holders on the side of the console are a joke so I will be inserting the pvc pipe that several of you have already done. I had a rod bunji cord mounted on the front deck like most of the bass have and it is awesome. I put 4 rods on there and had the boat wide open with little to no vibration. Motor Guide XI5 mounted on the front deck looks awesome but still have not been able to do it because the eyelets that screw down on the negative and positive terminal are the same size, this means the red wire is to small to fit on the terminal because most batteries have two different size terminals on the with the black one being smaller. This will be an easy fix just need to get another bigger eyelet. I still had some water in the boat after about an hour of riding but only about 1/2 cup full. I do have the gap between the seat and the livewell which I will fix soon but I never turned the pump on but not sure if the water in the livewell is splashing through the gap and onto the floor while going at full speed. Now in saying that this is my question to all of you, I put the plug in the livewell before putting the boat in the water and it was dry as a bone. After putting the boat in the water I checked the livewell again, still dry. After running down the lake at full speed I pulled into a slew opened the lid and the box was full of water. The plug was still secured in and I never turned the pump or power on for that matter. Why would there be water in the box when I didn't put it in there? Does the box fill up from somewhere automatically when you stop the boat and drain when you take off? That has stumped me. All in all the boat ran great and only has a couple issues so far. When I got home I pulled both drain plugs out, got a little water out of the top one and no water out of the lower deck drain. It was a good day and the first time my 8 year old girl has been out. Going to be a great summer.


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## FlatsCatFL

joebucko said:


> I have a Mako Pro17 CC with 60HP Mercury 4 stroke. I installed a Jackplate several months ago in an attempt to see if I could coach a little more performance from the boat.
> 
> *JackPlate
> *Adding a jackplate to the Mako Pro17 has very few advantages relative to overall performance. The only two advantages I have been able to determine are: (1)it makes engine height adjustments very simple and (2) it allows the engine to be raised 2"-3" above the original factory setting which might be an advantage for those fishing very skinny water. Raising the motor allowed the engine to gain 200+ rpms. However this increase height/rpm did not translate into appreciable performance improvement.
> 
> *Propellers:*
> I tested 4 propellers, all 3 blade.
> 
> Without Jackplate, engine at original 2nd hole mount:
> *Mercury Blackmax Aluminum: 10.375" x 13P: Good performance but tended to ventilate/cavitate a bit. WOT 6000/34MPH but porpoising occurred at WOT
> *Mercury Blackmax Aluminum: 10.375" x 14P: Good overall performance with no ventilation/cavitation.
> WOT 5600/33-34mph but porpoising occurred at WOT
> 
> Jackplate installed, 4"setback and engine raised:
> *Mercury Blackmax Aluminum: 10.375" x 13P: Poor performance with engine raised due to excessive ventilation/cavitation.
> *Mercury Blackmax Aluminum: 10.375" x 14P: Good overall performance with little ventilation/cavitation. WOT 5900-6000/34-35mph but porpoising occurred at WOT
> *Powertech Stainless Steel SCB3 14P: Poor propeller for this boat. Semi-cleaver design better suited to other hull designs.
> *Powertech Stainless NREB 10.5" x 13P: Very good prop for this boat. WOT 6100-6200/37mph. No ventilation/cavitation and only slight porpoising at WOT.
> *Mercury Vengeance Stainless 10.5 x 13P: I did not test this prop but a number of ProSkiff owners have them and report very good performance. Winters97gt runs one and has consistently reported top end speeds at 37MPH+. I do not believe he has a Jackplate.
> 
> *My conclusions:
> *
> For most of us a Jackplate provides few benefits. The addition of a Mercury Vengeance 13P or Powertech NREB13P Stainless Steel propeller can improve performance and handling about as much possible. A hydrofoil can help as well. I will post my Hydrofoil results separately.
> 
> One last observation:
> Air temperature affects the performance of the Mercury 60hp engine quite a bit. Air temperature below about 75degs can add several hundred RPMs
> due to the cooler/denser air. It might be possible to run a Mercury Vengeance 14P propeller in cooler weather and pick up a little bit better top end speed switchnig to a 13P for warmer weather. I suspect a Vengeance 14P would not work very well in hot weather potentially bogging down the engine below the recommended RPM. If anyone is running a Vengeance 14P on their proskiff please let us know how it is working.


Wow! JoeBucko, great information. The one/two punch: definitive prop/jackplate info plus Hydrofoil stats.

I'm 2/3 there, I have the Vengeance prop and a CMC PL-65 jackplate in waiting. Now I need to finalize a 'foil' product and I'll be 100% set on the propulsion setup.

Thanks again for your efforts, it would have taken me almost forever to have honed and culminated this data. Cheers!!!! :cheers:


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## frankcr

Remember that joebucko's set up includes a few inches of set back from the transom thus the motor can be mounted higher that if it were on the transom.

Joebucko, that is a great setup you have and your reporting is excellent. Gotta take off my hat to you for the cavitation plate attachment you designed and fabricated.

I would like to ask one question. What RPM do you folks use when cruising?


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## joebucko

frankcr
I usually cruise around 5000rpm/29-30mph. 

You are correct that a Jackplate's setback should allow a little higher mounting of the engine...BUT on this boat that may not be significant. If I remember correctly Winters97gt is running a Vengeance13P prop without a Jackplate and is consistently turning in the fastest top end speeds at 37-38mph. I also believe he raised his engine to the 3rd hole which means he is running .75" above the factory installed 2nd hole position. My testing indicates that he can probably go up one more hole (4th hole) without encountering significant cavitation or ventilation. This is an educated guess based on my own experience. Before I installed my JP I had raised my engine to the 3rd hole without any problems but raising the engine without a JP is such a hassle that I decided to install the JP. That way if I was wrong I could tweak the engine height without having to remount/reseal everything.

I would really like to hear from a Pro17 owner who is running or has run their boat with the Vengeance or Quicksilver Silverado 14P propeller. I feel like the boat can handle that prop and that it might squeeze out that final ounce of performance.


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## frankcr

Thanks, Joe. We were out yesterday and I noticed the RPM which seemed comfortable for our motor was a few RPM greater or less than 5000. The prop runs up to about 5700 WO and it felt right backing off a little.

With 2 stroke engines, RPM in this range was a norm for us. The 4 cycle has more moving parts which concern me.


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## joebucko

*Mako Pro 17 Skiff engine height*

Several months ago I posted a short video on Youtube showing the position of the engine's anti-cavitation plate when on plane. Basically it is buried under water. Today I added two more videos. One shows the anti-cav plate now after I raised the engine and the 2nd shows the same view with my homemade hydrofoil/compression plate installed.
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCpaQJ9Brv_1gIkRbzCsl36Q

The boat now runs at 37mph with no porpoising and a much flatter hole shot.


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## wag1551

Joebucko,
These are very impressive results. I am curious as to how you trim the motor. It seems that by raising it you limit the amount of tilt travel you have without getting the prop out of the water. Also, wouldn't changing the weight distribution (such as a passenger or cargo forward of the console) be more likely to raise the prop out of the water. Thanks.


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## MakoMadness

Took the boat out again Sunday and had some great results, fixed the water in the boat by screwing down the pump in the livewell. Was out there about 3 hours and when took out and unplugged the back it was bone dry. Still need to build some trailer guides and seal off the livewell a little better


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## joebucko

wag1551
Raising the engine does limit/reduce the amount of available up trim. I actually had the engine higher than what you see in the picture but there was almost NO up trim as a result. I experimented with very small height changes before settling on the pictured height. At the pictured height I can get plenty of uptrim which maxs out the RPMs/speed without blowing out. Adding a hydrofoil can magnify both up/down trim making only small adjustments necessary. 

I can't imagine a time when I would have so much extra weight in the front of the boat that it would raise the propeller out of the water. If that condition did occur a minor down trim adjustment would correct it.


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## MakoMadness

*Jawja Boy*

Hey guys was wondering what you guys were using to cut the slit out of the pvc pipe for the modified rod holders. I thought maybe a jigsaw but keep hitting the underside of the pipe with the blade.


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## joebucko

MakoMadness
I used a simple coping saw for roughing it out then just a sharp knife for cleanup and fine tuning.


----------



## FlyItAll

*Makomadness*

For the rod holders, I drilled a hole the desired diameter and used a Dremel tool with a fiber wheel to cut the slot.


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## yellowskeeter

I just wanted to be poster #1103, on this thread.....


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## eyesneers

*prop question for joebuck*

Are you running the powertech prop then- based on your numbers? How do you think it will do on an unaltered motor position(no jackplate in the original holes?) I still am debating which stainless I want to upgrade to.


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## joebucko

eyesneers
Yes I am running a Powertech NREB3 10.5" x 13P stainless prop. The powertech has nearly identical dimensions with the Mercury Vengeance or Quicksilver Silverado 13P props but costs $75-$100 less. My testing indicated that the engine height doesn't make that much difference relative to overall performance.


----------



## Jonc

*Rod holders*

Not sure how the other guys cut their PVC Mako Madness but I determined each slot width and depth based on each particular rod I wanted to stow, clamped the PVC in a vice and bored the various holes at the depth point with a spade drill bit then cut the slits out on a table saw. Quick and easy if you have the right tools.

Jonc


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## eyesneers

thanks!


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## FlatsCatFL

*prop shaft centerline*

joebucko, now that you have your powertrain parameters dialed in, where did your prop shaft centerline fall relative to the hull. Thanks in advance!


----------



## daanglerguy

*Update on our purchase from Nov 2013*

My wife and I love the boat. It does great in choppy water, hardly get any water from waves. We have not had any issues on water in the hull, I just make sure plugs are tight. Aside from hitting the darn oyster bed when we first got it, everything is good. Have managed to go to the north side of green island with no problem and inside rattlesnake. Winter has surely lowered the tides than normal. What other areas can this boat go into, my wife gets real skiddish about try new places as she is afraid of the oyster bed incident happening again?

Thank you all for the posts, they are alll informative.


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## Winters97gt

The boat can handle 1-1 1/2 chop. Anymore, you're going to get wet if it's windy, no matter how much experience you have. It's a great little bay boat. Stay away from our deep bay systems on windy days. I probably fished 80 days last year out of the boat and found exactly where and where not to take it. Don't go real skinny either. I stuck mine quite a bit, but never on oysters. The 4 stroke 60 doesn't have the power to get you out of a good sticking in mud.

Other than that, just use common sense, check the weather, tide charts, and depth where you want to run. And keep a tight line!

This is about 3-4 weeks ago crossing the 1-2 miles from the Brownsville Ship Channel to SPI in 2 1/2-3 foot chop with a 35mph north wind. Talk about getting soaked. My Dad's 21 foot Explorer plowed through it at 30mph next to me and they were all dry. I wouldn't recommend trying the weather like this until you really get a feel for the boat.


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## daanglerguy

Thank you for the advice. I was just curious what's the skinniest you have gone?


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## DCAVA

daanglerguy said:


> Thank you for the advice. I was just curious what's the skinniest you have gone?


 U can run skinny @ full throttle, but u need to know your limits. Once u let off the throttle and get off plane in under a ft. of water, your skeg will drag. Common sense like mentioned above, these boats are not made to run super skinny.


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## Winters97gt

DCAVA said:


> U can run skinny @ full throttle, but u need to know your limits. Once u let off the throttle and get off plane in under a ft. of water, your skeg will drag. Common sense like mentioned above, these boats are not made to run super skinny.


Exactly correct. Do not get off plane if you feel the sled start to drag. Trim up a tad more, go wide open throttle, and point the boat in the direction of the closest deep water.


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## Jb8

*Needed feedback/advice*

Hey guys, new to the forum. I'm considering buying the 2014 17ft mako next month and would really like some need to know feedback on the boat. How it handles out in port Mansfield? Anything I need to watch out for? Does anyone know if 2014 model has fixed the problems about the water in the hul? 
Any feed back or advice is greatly appreaciated!

Thanks
Jonathan


----------



## LitUp

*Warranty*

Hey guys just curious if anyone has opted to extend their warranty, I thought about it but dealing with basspro is worse than a sharp stick in the eye, I think I'll just pay a real boat shop if I run into any issues once my warranty is up.


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## Techguy802

I agree about dealing with Bass Pro Sales. I am going to but hope I can do it directly with Mercury! 

Anybody else done this ?


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## Winters97gt

You guys are wrong. Once you have hull problems or serious issues, you're gonna void that warranty. I've had extremely positive and negative reviews on different tracker marine warranty issues. I can tell you that the worst thing you can do is buy a new boat with warranty, then years later ruin that warranty by not having an authorized dealer fix it. Fortunately, I've had none except water in my hull which has been fixed. 

You have to understand, you're buying a bargain, mass produced boat. Some are flawless, most have minor issues. You can fix simple issues without voiding the warranty, but don't bite off more than you can chew.

When you go to sell your skiff 1-3 years from now, and your warranty is voided, good luck.

Mine is 6 months old, for sell and records 38mph frequently. It's sitting, waiting for a new home for 1/3 less than a new boat, and guess what? You get the warranty since I didn't do what you guys suggested.


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## Techguy802

To be fair, I do not have a problem with my Bass Pro Service Department! They have been right on top of any issues I have had, all the way to replacing my hull! 

I live 1 hour from Bass Pro though and 1/2 mile from a Mercury shop that can do the warranty on the motor. If I have anything other than a scratch to the hull I will return it to Bass Pro. 

I will extend my motor warranty for as long as I can. This will be my sons boat when I am done with it. It may not be a top of the line but it is everything a father and son needs to be out on the water together! 

We love the boat! Just hated my experience with Bass Pro Sales. They didn't even mention extending any warranty. Appearantly since I bought an economy boat they weren't going to make enough commission to bother with me. 

Had the same problem when I bought my new truck last year, had two salesmen look at me and assume I couldn't afford it even after I told them I was already approved at my bank. I purposely drove my new 2013 Silverado XLT to show it to them after I bought it somewhere else. 

I just want to buy my warranty from someone other than that sales department.


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## KiteboarderDoug

*Livewell Modification Photos*

I apologize..I see after being gone for a few months that I was supposed to put the pics up that my dealer did to eliminate the Live Well Problem...

I have them but am hoping someone who knows how will email me and let me send them to them and let them upload and post for everyone...

[email protected] is my email..


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## modestmike

Well....after finally getting the boat back on the water after about 3-4 months Ive come across an engine problem. I bought the boat last March and up until now everything has been great.

I have a Merc 25hp tiller on back and usually cruise around 19mph at 5800rpm but on Saturday i was only able to get it up to 4000rpm max. My initial thought was water in the hull because it felt like it was heavy. Not a drop of water came out. The boat couldnt even get on plane. I dropped it off at bass pro this morning and hoping to get the issue resolved. 

On to my question. It currently has a 10''x10 aluminum prop on it and until this past weekend it has worked out great. I have a Solas 10x10 stainless steel prop thats been used once because the engine couldnt break past 3500rpm with that prop on. Am i just out of luck on running a SS prop with this boat/engine combo? The Solas prop is HEAVY compared to the original aluminum prop. Using the mercury prop selector has brought me up to 2 aluminum props and one SS (Vengeance 9.8x9.5) but i feel like Im going to get the same results as the solas prop. Im in need of a replacement soon. Not sure which route to take.


----------



## prod1944

Hey kiteboarderDoug. I hope someone responds and post those picture for you. I am about 3 weeks away from buyingea the 17 and I don't know if they resolved that issue on the 2014's. I do know that the early ones the pumps in the stern were laying sideways and now the one I just looked at has johnson pumps and they are straight up. They all have the easy pickup on them. This site has a wealth of information and I already have my mods in mind from this site.


----------



## highanddryinco

*Warranty*



LitUp said:


> Hey guys just curious if anyone has opted to extend their warranty, I thought about it but dealing with basspro is worse than a sharp stick in the eye, I think I'll just pay a real boat shop if I run into any issues once my warranty is up.


Yep, upgraded and extended. I'm not much for extended warranties, but for an outboard...makes pretty good sense. Especially if you want to sell it at some point.


----------



## joebucko

KiteboarderDoug
I sent you a PM with my email. I'll post the pictures for you. Did the modification fix the problem of the pump losing prime?


----------



## frankcr

Modestmike, we have the tiller model with 30 HP.

The 9.75 x 9.5" turns roughly 6,000 RPM at 23 - 25 MPH. Good motor performance.
The 9.5 x 11" turns 5700 at 25-27 MPH. Less spiritedly performance.

Tried a 10.5 x 10 Mich Wheel and found it cavitated easily. The prop hub and lower unit are of different diameters unlike the two Merc Black Max props. It had larger blade sizes than the Mercs and loaded up the motor also.

You may be putting too much load on the motor with the SST props you are trying to use. It seems I remember that you want about 1" less pitch with a SST than with an aluminum prop due to the difference in cupping. Matching hub diameters should also be done.


----------



## modestmike

frankcr said:


> Modestmike, we have the tiller model with 30 HP.
> 
> The 9.75 x 9.5" turns roughly 6,000 RPM at 23 - 25 MPH. Good motor performance.
> The 9.5 x 11" turns 5700 at 25-27 MPH. Less spiritedly performance.
> 
> Tried a 10.5 x 10 Mich Wheel and found it cavitated easily. The prop hub and lower unit are of different diameters unlike the two Merc Black Max props. It had larger blade sizes than the Mercs and loaded up the motor also.
> 
> You may be putting too much load on the motor with the SST props you are trying to use. It seems I remember that you want about 1" less pitch with a SST than with an aluminum prop due to the difference in cupping. Matching hub diameters should also be done.


Thats some good information. I cant believe there is that much difference between the 25hp and 30hp. I'll never get those speeds with my 25. I think Ive decided to stay away from SS props and get a new Merc Spitfire 9.3x9.5 four blade prop for everyday use/offshore trips and use the current beat up prop for shallow water fishing days.


----------



## Jonc

*ModestMike*

I realize this may sound a bit too simplistic but did you add any fuel additive to your tank ModestMike? The reason I ask is that I had the same issue on one one of my boats last year that sat idle for 5 months. Sluggish, almost sounded like it was flooding out. New fuel with additive and problem solved. Just a thought.

Jonc


----------



## frankcr

Jonc makes a good point, as the gas we buy today loses its punch fast without fuel additive. Also, my motor gets real gas without ethanol which delivers more power than gasohol and you should try in that 25. You can lose 10% efficiency with ethanol.

The 11" p prop is what Bass Pro recommends for the 30, but I purchased the 9.5" p for better performance with the family in the boat. The difference in acceleration is significant for the loss or 2 MPH or so, so that is what we use if going out in rougher water or for more than two people.

I believe the props we have are the BLack Max variety 3 blades. The dealer spoke well of the 4 blade but said it might not provide the speed of the 3 blade. One of the service guys put one on his rig which is not the skiff, and he told me he lost a little on top end but improved acceleration so keep that in mind. The 3 blade should be the better prop for your rig.

Look at the Tohatsu site for a good list of props for the motors. Try to find what allows a higher RPM rather that just top speed. When we had a 25 HP Evinrude, we found it could not use as much pitch as their 30 HP motor, so don't even consider the 11" p.

As the skiffs are large boats, the 25/30 HP motors are fairly small for the job but deliver all you need for fishing. If you like to slow troll, they are better choices than the 40 or 60. We love the tiller version for the waters we fish.


----------



## modestmike

I topped the tank off with another 3 gallons of fresh fuel that day. The previous fuel in the tank had been there about 3 months with fuel stabilizer in it. I overlooked that thinking the fuel would be fine after only 3 months. I'm starting to realize that you cant over look the small things....

Either way the boat is getting looked over at bass pro. I want to make sure it will be ready to head out 7-17 miles offshore this season. As far as the 3 blade/ 4 blade prop goes....I'm really more concerned about getting that initial take off speed. I can live with losing a mile or two per hour on the top end with my "deep water" fishing prop.


----------



## cnoise

*New Leaning Post*

Just installed my new leaning post. Had it built to work with the original cooler in the boat. Pretty happy with it.


----------



## LBJMako17

Thanks to all for an awesome thread. I have read the entire thing over the last week. I'm picking my ProSkiff up Thursday at 3 pm. I will try to post some pics this weekend. I am getting the 2014 model 17' with 60hp motor. I had the dealer install a Minn Kota ipilot and Hummingbird 597. This is my first boat and I have much to learn. I will take it to Lake LBJ next weekend as my wife's family has a house there. I will use it mostly at LBJ but hope to trailer it to Buchanan for Stripers at some point.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*Leaning Post*



cnoise said:


> Just installed my new leaning post. Had it built to work with the original cooler in the boat. Pretty happy with it.


Cnoise, very nice and practical upgrade.


----------



## Winters97gt

Very nice. If you fish this boat every week in chop, you will love it.


----------



## joebucko

*Livewell Pump fix*

KiteboarderDoug sent me the following pictures of the modification the Mako dealer in Bradenton Florida installed on his boat to fix the livewell pump issue on his Proskiff. He says the pump now operates flawlessly.

The only type of 'T' fitting I am familiar with is the kind you buy at Lowes/Homedepot. Their T fittings are usually simple nylon constructions. I have not seen a 'T' fitting like the one used here. I don't know if this is something special or just a regular T made of a different material.

Frankcr knows a lot about pumps maybe he can chime in and tell us what this is and how/why it works.


----------



## frankcr

The vertical line out of the tee allows air to be expelled and the pump flooded which is good engineering practice. Where does the vertical line terminate? There will be flow of water in the line when the pump is operating.


----------



## bobcat_fisherman

Nice boat!


----------



## joebucko

*Livewell Pump fix*

Frankcr
The line from the T (1st pic) runs up through the rear deck fitting along with all the other control cables (2nd pic) then across the rear deck and is secured over the back of the transom on the starboard side engine bracket (3rd pic).


----------



## frankcr

Hey, Joe, after looking at the pictures again, it was dumb of me not to see that tube.

Water takes the path of least resistance, so even though some would flow over the transom, most of it would go to the livewell. Looks like this arrangement would work well as reported. The vent line should be small to limit the amount of water flow through it when the pump is running.

Centrifugal pump flow is affected by what is known as head or the vertical distance a pump will develop. Trying to keep it simple, as long as the outlet to the livewell is lower than the end of the tube going over the transom, it would be a path of lower resistance to flow. The end of the vent line over the transom must not be any lower than the livewell.

It looks like a standard PVC tee with an adapter glued on the top leg with internal threads perhaps to mount the tube fitting.

Good job on the part of the folks who set this up. They have a winner


----------



## joebucko

*Livewell Pump fix*

Frankcr
Can this auxiliary vent line be any size as long as its smaller than the main feed tube? From the pictures it looks to be at least 1/2"ID tubing. Could it be as small as 1/4"id. I assume the purpose of the line is to vent the air from the pump. 
Also good to know that the end of the vent line must be higher than the outlet on the livewell


----------



## FlatsCatFL

frankcr said:


> Hey, Joe, after looking at the pictures again, it was dumb of me not to see that tube.
> 
> Water takes the path of least resistance, so even though some would flow over the transom, most of it would go to the livewell. Looks like this arrangement would work well as reported. The vent line should be small to limit the amount of water flow through it when the pump is running.
> 
> Centrifugal pump flow is affected by what is known as head or the vertical distance a pump will develop. Trying to keep it simple, as long as the outlet to the livewell is lower than the end of the tube going over the transom, it would be a path of lower resistance to flow. The end of the vent line over the transom must not be any lower than the livewell.
> 
> It looks like a standard PVC tee with an adapter glued on the top leg with internal threads perhaps to mount the tube fitting.
> 
> Good job on the part of the folks who set this up. They have a winner


Frankcr, you are 100% on the money with that explanation. I just now got off the phone with the Bradenton Tracker Marine service manager. The TM fix used off the shelf plumbing/sprinkler hardware. When the pump is primed you get a "pee" stream through the overboard 1/4" hose. With this mod the baitwell airlock issue should be resolved. Cheers!


----------



## frankcr

The vent line can be very small, and smaller is better than larger. Air will flow something like 88 times easier than water through an orifice as I recall. Even an 1/8" ID line will perform well in this application. Just do not make the end of the tubing low enough to form an air pocket in the vent line. It must not extend down to the water line outside the transom.

In industrial pump designs which must be vented before startup, we put a valve in the vent line which is shut when the pump is properly primed. If you have a place the excess water can go, overboard in this case, the vent line may be left open without a valve. It just allows some of the water to be wasted so to speak. Certainly no biggy in a bait pump system.

One way we cheated the system when using metal tubing in a system like this was to squeeze the end of the tubing to minimize flow, but that is not necessary using the smaller rubber tubing such as in this case.

It basically operates similar to the pee tube in the cooling water in an outboard.

If my boat were fitted with the bait tank, I would be on my way to Lowes or Home Depot with a shopping list.

The little plastic scoop on the transom will insure the pump continues to operate as the boat moves forward, as when the boat is in motion, the water level at the pump inlet may fall below the pump at that point. You will have to utilize the valve in the bait well to prevent an overflow of water into the boat, as flow may be increased by boat movement. I would adjust the flow with the boat at speed to prevent overflows.

Thanks to KiteboarderDoug for providing the pictures.


----------



## rgourley11

cnoise said:


> Just installed my new leaning post. Had it built to work with the original cooler in the boat. Pretty happy with it.


Looks good. You have any pics with the cooler under it.


----------



## FlatsJunkie

*Water in Hull*

This may be a little off topic but.

My buddy has 1 of the first model Mako 17s that came out.. with the 60 merc
I have been fishing on it numerous times.
When we but the boat on the trailer and open the bottom plug water floods out for about 6 minutes ... From my knowledge this is not suppose to happen.
Someone mentioned something about the live well, but we dont even use the live well at all its dry... Also the hull looks brand new so no scratches holes anything

Also not to long ago, the fish finder stopped working randomly we were wondering if there is water somewhere under the deck that got to the cords and wires.. planning on taking the head unit to bass pro to at least test it to find out if its just the cord...

Just wanted to know if anyone heard of this before?


----------



## joebucko

FlatsJunkie
The FF problem is most likely unrelated to the water in the hull. The water in the hull is most likely being caused by:
1. The metal drain plug with the 'O'ring not being tight enough. Try getting it really tight next time out.
2. If it is not the 'O'ring then one or more of your through hull fittings is most likely leaking.

It should be a simple fix but may take some time to figure it out. there are a number of posts on this site dealing with the water in hull issue and in most cases it is either the drain plug oring or a through hull fitting


----------



## prod1944

*Mods and repairs*

This is an awsome forum. Most positive and very little negitivity in the posts and I have read them from the start. I should have a 2014 in 2 to 3 weeks. Boat show next weekend in Miami. I have a list already for mods and will purchase as soon as contract is signed. All my mods are from this forum with some little changes of my own. I really like the last post on the livewell. Thanks to all you guys that take the time to research and give feedback on performance and mods. Hope to contribute soon.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*lower hull cavity drain plug*

as i was speaking with the Bradenton Tracker Marine service manager today about the baitwell airlock issue, i also asked him if he had a solution for water in the lower hull.

he said his recommendation was to firstly apply some vaseline to the O-ring and make sure to tighten well. if the vaseline didn't resolve the problem, then try to find another O-ring that fit snugly in its place but also had a slightly larger diameter to further increase pressure on the sealing surfaces.

if you're still getting water in the lower cavity after trying the above, then re-sealing the thru hull fittings is the next obvious step.(sounds familiar) cheers!


----------



## FlatsCatFL

prod1944 said:


> This is an awsome forum. Most positive and very little negitivity in the posts and I have read them from the start. I should have a 2014 in 2 to 3 weeks. Boat show next weekend in Miami. I have a list already for mods and will purchase as soon as contract is signed. All my mods are from this forum with some little changes of my own. I really like the last post on the livewell. Thanks to all you guys that take the time to research and give feedback on performance and mods. Hope to contribute soon.


prod1944, good luck with your upcoming skiff purchase. i think you'll find it will work perfectly for the inshore areas such as Flamingo, Biscayne Bay etc. and running outside near shore as well.


----------



## frankcr

The Vaseline is a good thing to use on the O-ring. An O-ring can become twisted and form a leak path if not lubricated. I saw that often when working with mechanical seals on pumps. A silicon based lube works even better.

If you look closely at an o-ring, you often can see what appears as a ridge in the material. If twisted, you just made a leak path.

It is basically a pressure loaded gasket on the drain plugs which makes it less apt to leak if properly tightened.

Watching the posts on improvements and customizing in this thread is really an eye opener. This has to be the site with the most information of the skiffs in existence.


----------



## eyesneers

Anybody know offhand what size T joint I would need to make that mod- what size is the tube going to the livewell off the pump? That looks like it will solve all the livewell vacuum lock problems.


----------



## texas skiffaroo

Really? A little twist equals 6 gallons of water. What the.


----------



## texas skiffaroo

Tighten the drain plugs. HELLO.
A ton of water will go in the lower drain plug as soon as you put the boat in the water, and every time you slow down or decelerate quickly.
Most of the time you are so worried about remembering to put in the above deck drain plug you are not thinking about "THE OTHER ONE".


----------



## Jonc

*Leaning Posts*

Hey C Noise.. I purchased a post as well but have yet to install it. Would appreciate hearing how the install went and some direction if you don't mind. Nice looking post..

jonc


----------



## rgourley11

eyesneers said:


> Anybody know offhand what size T joint I would need to make that mod- what size is the tube going to the livewell off the pump? That looks like it will solve all the livewell vacuum lock problems.


Purchase a 3/4" Tee threads all sides. Install 3/4" MNPT X 3/4" hose barb fittings both sides. Install a 3/4" MNPT x 1/4" FMNPT then a 1/4" MNPt x 1/4" hose barb connector. 2 hose clamps to fit around connections. 1 clamp to fit around 1/4" hose.


----------



## joebucko

Thanks rgourley11 that looks like a recipe for success.


----------



## KeithD.

Guys,
One thing you might want to check on is if this mod to the livewell will void warranties. I was told by my local BPS that this mod to the livewell has not been approved by the manufacture. From my understanding the dealer in Bradenton is an independant dealer. Just something to think about.


----------



## KeithD.

I also thought about this mod a while ago and was thinking you could put a check valve at the end of the tubing so that once the air has all escaped the water pressure would close it. Not sure if it would work just a thought.


----------



## frankcr

The check valve might be a good idea, but I would not put one in. The small flow of water through the vent line should be of no consequence as long as it is aimed to a clear area of the transom and does not put salt water where it would be a problem.

I think it would be pretty chincy of BP to claim that this mod would mess up a warranty, but it might be worthwhile to check. If your shop gave you grief, then I would tell them the bait pump installation was defective and to do the installation of the vent themselves under the existing warranty. Let them pay for the tee, labor, and vent out of their pocket.

BP would be money ahead to utilize the fix as a standard judging from the complaints about the bait pumps.


----------



## KeithD.

They want to use this mod as a last resort and make clear that there would be no warranty issues before they do it. The local BPS has told me they have been drilling a 3/8 inch relief hole on the top of the ez pump cover. They said they are having good look with that.


----------



## KeithD.

The fitting they used looks like the old sprinkler fitting used for poly pipe before pvc pipe was used. You can buy these fittings with 3/4 in barbs on each end and threads on the top. Then screw in the adapter as mentioned above for the vent line.


----------



## rgourley11

KeithD. said:


> I also thought about this mod a while ago and was thinking you could put a check valve at the end of the tubing so that once the air has all escaped the water pressure would close it. Not sure if it would work just a thought.


No need for the check valve with the 1/4" hose and if you run your pump like mine in auto mod. Only dumps water out the back of the boat for a little while with the pumps running then stops with the pump cycle time.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*Regarding the baitwell warranty concerns*

I agree with Frankcr that BPS/Tracker Marine/Mako should not be overly concerned about end user baitwell mods. They certainly haven't been very proactive in resolving the issue themselves. New 2014 Skiffs are rolling off the production line without factory mods to correct this annoying issue.

Both recent mentions by kiteboarderdoug (with pics by Joebucko) and KeithD are just different ways to scale the fish, pun intended. Personally, I'm going the cut tubing and tee route. It seems less invasive to the baitwell pump.

The tee in the pic is a 1" on the sides and a 3/4" on the top. Reducing inserts were used as necessary. All parts were bought at my local Ace Hardware.


----------



## eyesneers

rgourley11 said:


> Purchase a 3/4" Tee threads all sides. Install 3/4" MNPT X 3/4" hose barb fittings both sides. Install a 3/4" MNPT x 1/4" FMNPT then a 1/4" MNPt x 1/4" hose barb connector. 2 hose clamps to fit around connections. 1 clamp to fit around 1/4" hose.


Thanks!


----------



## joebucko

*Humminbird SideScan sonar on Mako Proskiff*

I am getting ready to upgrade to a Humminbird 999si (will be selling my HB 597HD Di) and was wondering if any ProSkiff owners are using a Humminbird SI with the full size Transducer. If so where/how did you mount the transducer?


----------



## Winters97gt

Sadly, Pete is leaving Tracker Marine in Brownsville. Today was his last day. Gonna go pick up my hoopty tomorrow before something else goes wrong with it. He was the only Tracker guy I trusted. 

I was running my gym class today and didn't have long to talk to him. If somebody can PM his cell phone number, that would be great. I'd like to continue to do business with him in the future on my next boat.


----------



## FlatsJunkie

*Running lights*

Does anyone know if the back white running light holder is universal ... Need to replace holder and the light... ?


----------



## ReelWork

It's universal..


----------



## Winters97gt

Just spent 1 hour and 45 minutes trying to get a hold of somebody from Tracker in Harlingen. As I stated, Pete left. Finally, I got some lady. Nobody has a record or work order on my boat!!! Unbelievable!!!

I'm driving 400 miles to pick up my boat and nobody can tell me a darn thing about it. My never ending crappy service with tracker is getting so old.


----------



## panhandlekelly

Just finished the Mod to the baitwell pump. It was not an easy task. Be sure to purchase 3/4 hose fittings and do all you can to keep the "T" as short as possible. There is not much room to work and the space from the pump to the chase is very short and the hose was difficult to work with. I had to clean up all the blood when I was through due to the scraps on my hands and lower arms. Those cut ends of the cable ties sure are sharp! Now I just hope the effort was worth it.
I learned something about 3M 5200. The lable says "permanent" and they mean it. I had, some time ago, removed mhy baitwell pump and resealed using 5200. I ATTEMPTED to losen the pump to to help with the mod, but that ain't gonna happen. If I ever need to replace my pump I will have drill, chisel, and scrape that stuff off. If you use 5200, remember that it is permanent.


----------



## frankcr

I see on the web that 3M makes a liquid to remove the stuff.

When it first came out, I installed trim tabs with it. They are permanently mounted and will be awful to remove.


----------



## LitUp

i have one on mine but it is not mounted far enough away from the motor i get distortion whenever im above trolling speed, im going out to the lake monday to try and fine tune it


----------



## Winters97gt

Quick update. Only fished for about 45 minutes in SPI today after I picked up my boat at Bass Pro in Harlingen. Caught 2 reds, 2 Sheepshead.

The boat is finally running flawlessly.

*About 1/2 once of water in the hull after 3 hours of the boat in the water! *

Water problem solved, everything on the boat works great. Only hit 36mph today, it was warmer and my prop is cut up pretty good, but happy with it.

Tracker Marine just lost the best manager I've dealt with. If you're reading this Pete, tight lines buddy!


----------



## frankcr

Condensation would account for that much water.


----------



## charliel2

*Ladder Install*

Finally got my sport ladder installed. See if the pic shows up...


----------



## charliel2

*Ladder Install...retry.*

Another attempt...








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----------



## eyesneers

joebucko said:


> I am getting ready to upgrade to a Humminbird 999si (will be selling my HB 597HD Di) and was wondering if any ProSkiff owners are using a Humminbird SI with the full size Transducer. If so where/how did you mount the transducer?


I have the Lowrance HDS 7 with the structure scan(SI and DI transducers). I'm not sure if they are the same but I can tell you how I did mine if you like.


----------



## Winters97gt




----------



## Winters97gt

Gosh Fecking Darnit!!!!!!!!!!

There actually was more water than ever. 3-4 time tracker has told me they will fix this. So ridiculous!!!!!

I want a new boat!!!


----------



## charliel2

*Water in Hull*

Winter97,

One area I haven't heard anyone talk about (maybe I missed it) is where the rubrail is connected. It is held on by pop rivets. It looks like Mako should have used washers on the backside of the rivets because, on my boat anyway, the backside of the pop rivets has crushed thru the gel coat and into the fiberglass. Don't know if this is the cause of water instrusion but it's another thing to track down.

Was the water rough today...to the point that waves washed up against the backside of the rubrail at the bow? If so, that could be a place where water could enter. I suspect a decent chop could push water up in there a fairly high pressure.


----------



## Winters97gt

The handle and every part of the transom has been pulled and resealed heavily.


----------



## charliel2

Winter - I'm talking about the rubrail at the bow where waves would be pushing up under the rubrail. Seems like water shooting up and under the bow at 30+mph would really shoot under the bow at a pretty high pressure. Any small leak there could possible shoot water inside the boat like a fuel injector. Just a thought...


----------



## Winters97gt

Thanks, didn't think about that, but no way that's it. I've had the boat in calm water with literally no chop in the Brownsville Channel and full of water. A 30mph wind there will produce at most, 4-5 inch chop. Normal day. 2-3 inches. 

It seems to be time related. Tracker said the filled the hull with water and didn't see any leaks. I really dunno. 3 different guys at Tracker have tried to figure it out, or at least one I know spent actual time with it, and they didn't get any water. But that was an hour or less. Not 1-2 days.


----------



## frankcr

I would be surprised if the liner and outer hull were not sealed with something like 5300 or whatever sealer/adhesive they use. I drilled through the gunnels and cannot remember what I saw.

I wonder if there is a split somewhere in the hull. It is unreal that the source of the leak is that hard to find, and there is no excuse for the boat to take on water like it does.

After that many trips to the shop, it is ridiculous that they do not provide you with a new hull. How far up the line over the local store have you been able to contact their people? Somebody has the clout to say that is enough and to make amends.


----------



## Winters97gt

Frank, you, Joe, a few other guys seem to be the most boat savvy Skiff guys. 

I might have stated this before, but my family has owned a big majority of the Texas built boats. We've never had issues. This much water so many times in a hull can't be good. I know it's not a wooden boat, but South Padre Island has very high salinity amounts. No way that can be good. 

I'm just surprised that somebody reading this from Mako or Tracker Marine hasn't had the balls to contact me. All the guides I speak to and fish/hangout with almost weekly think I'm nuts for not filing for a lemon law claim or just getting my personal business lawyer involved. 

I've got nothing to hide, the facts are there, that's why I'm posting it. If anybody wants to come dunk my boat in for 1-2 days in SPI, fish with me, pull it out of water and see it in person, you're more than welcome. You tracker/mako guys hiding behind your computer reading this as well. 

Yes, I'm upset.


----------



## frankcr

Except for any electrical wiring, I don't know anything inside the hull that would be hurt by the salt water. Over time, the foam itself could be ruined, and a boat of sandwich construction would probably suffer from a soft hull in time. Actually if there were wood in there, salt water would be better than fresh water.

The fact still remains that there should be no appreciable water inside the hull with normal use. I doubt anyone with BP or Mako would reply regarding these posts, so you would have to seek out someone with the clout to investigate your problem yourself. Obviously the local store does not understand that, but corporate sure does if they plan to stay in business.

Your videos on You Tube would be enough to make a pretty good case, and if the boats were my product, I would not want videos such as this floating around. The reputation of a company is a valuable commodity which normal companies are very jealous to maintain. As competitive as things are, no one wants to have information such as this floating around.

Your problem is related to one particular hull, but if I were a prospective customer of boats from that manufacturer, this would make me wary of purchasing any of their products.


----------



## TXPIRATE

When they filled the hull with water was it on the trailer? You could have a crack and the bunks on the trailer are hiding it from view. 

I had a pathfinder that had an issue like this. Turned out it was a bad fiberglass job. There were voids in it and the water went from one to the other. The only way I found it was to fill the hull up and wait about 24 hours. You could see just a drop or two right on the keel. When I had it repaired is when they found the voids. The water pressure when you are running will turn a little leak into a big one really fast if the leak is in the wrong place.


----------



## Winters97gt

Just spoke with tracker marine's corporate office. Waiting to hear back from a "tech" guy there. I'll update if/when they contact me.


----------



## Winters97gt

They told me to go pound sand. Drive 350 miles back to pick the boat up, then another 50 miles to have the boat repaired. I explained to the lady the thousands of miles I've driven, the numerous times it's been attempted to be fixed by tracker marine, with no luck. I explained to her the potential long term damage of the water in the boat, and that it could be an unsafe vessel and I wouldn't except the hull back. Her attitude quickly changed, talking down to me telling me what I needed to do. Told her that's fine, I'll have my lawyer contact them. She said fine, she will no longer discuss it and hung up the phone. 

Contacting an attorney now.


----------



## modestmike

Winters97gt said:


> They told me to go pound sand. Drive 350 miles back to pick the boat up, then another 50 miles to have the boat repaired. I explained to the lady the thousands of miles I've driven, the numerous times it's been attempted to be fixed by tracker marine, with no luck. I explained to her the potential long term damage of the water in the boat, and that it could be an unsafe vessel and I wouldn't except the hull back. Her attitude quickly changed, talking down to me telling me what I needed to do. Told her that's fine, I'll have my lawyer contact them. She said fine, she will no longer discuss it and hung up the phone.
> 
> Contacting an attorney now.


That's horrible news....very disappointed in they way they are handling the situation.


----------



## frankcr

I do not understand about having the boat repaired though. Does that mean they know what the problem is? Is that on your nickle or theirs. A good repair should have the boat ready for continued service.

Time for a lawyer if it is your nickle. When her superiors hear the story from a lawyer, her attitude could very well be adjusted.

I got screwed to the floor by a good customer once when an inside person got horsey with my customer. She was very unhappy when our supervisors heard about her attitude. They said I should not have made her cry, but if she had taken the reaming the customer gave me, she would really have understood the situation.


----------



## Winters97gt

I've got a good marine lawyer on it already out of Florida. He's proven cases where repeated incidents of saltwater in a composite hull damages it. We have the work orders to fix it from tracker, the videos to prove it, now we are going to get a 3rd party boat inspector/damage assessor verify it, then the ball will be Tracker's court.


----------



## tavy

I just wanted to add, before my Mako was stolen I had this same issue with some water in the hull. 
The first couple times I had the boat out it was a good bit, then I read the thread about really tightening the bottom plug, so I tried that. It seemed to help, and some days I had zero water at all, and on another day maybe a gallon, even if the plug was really tight. I did notice water that appeared to be coming from under the console and the bilge would pump some out, so I assumed it was the bait well leaking and somehow getting in the hull from the wire opening, but I never did get to figure it out.

It was never that much to really bother me, and never close to as much as in your videos for sure, but it has to be a design/defect somewhere for several people to have the same problem.


----------



## GA Boater

Winters97gt said:


> I've got a good marine lawyer on it already out of Florida. He's proven cases where repeated incidents of saltwater in a composite hull damages it. We have the work orders to fix it from tracker, the videos to prove it, now we are going to get a 3rd party boat inspector/damage assessor verify it, then the ball will be Tracker's court.


Sorry to hear about this. Im in the market for this boat and it seems that this is the #1 issue.

what year model is your skiff?


----------



## GA Boater

GA Boater said:


> Sorry to hear about this. Im in the market for this boat and it seems that this is the #1 issue.
> 
> what year model is your skiff?


Nvm i see it there on your profile.
2013 17 foot. exactly what im about to buy.


----------



## frankcr

Winters got snake bit, but water leaking into the hull should not be an issue. Just tighten the hull drain plug well and any water should be condensation only.

The big issue has been the bait pump, but read a few pages back and see the cure for that problem. Not a biggie.

We have the tiller version used in Savannah waters with no bad habits as far as we have seen. It handles coastal river chop very well.


----------



## texasislandboy

Winters97gt said:


> I've got a good marine lawyer on it already out of Florida. He's proven cases where repeated incidents of saltwater in a composite hull damages it. We have the work orders to fix it from tracker, the videos to prove it, now we are going to get a 3rd party boat inspector/damage assessor verify it, then the ball will be Tracker's court.


Man I hope you get your money back from that mess of a boat. I see a ton of them down here.. And Alot of them are beat up from people not knowing what they are doing.


----------



## GA Boater

frankcr said:


> Winters got snake bit, but water leaking into the hull should not be an issue. Just tighten the hull drain plug well and any water should be condensation only.
> 
> The big issue has been the bait pump, but read a few pages back and see the cure for that problem. Not a biggie.
> 
> We have the tiller version used in Savannah waters with no bad habits as far as we have seen. It handles coastal river chop very well.


I hear ya. And I see thats been the typical solution. Just terrible that hes had to put up with all that.

Also saw earlier in the forum where they might have corrected the bait well issue on the 2013.

Ill be using mine mostly on Lake Lanier fishing stripers and some down in Destin on Choctowatchee Bay.

My main deciding factor is whether to buy the 2012 17 or the 2013 17.
May resell in a couple years and i think the 2013 might go easier.

Not sure if i can justify forking over the extra cash for the 2014.
And i qualify for the 3.99% interest rate for the 13-14.


----------



## charliel2

*Livewell Fix*

http://s15.photobucket.com/user/charliel2/story/120751


----------



## GA Boater

charliel2 said:


> http://s15.photobucket.com/user/charliel2/story/120751


Well done.

This needs to be made into its own thread.


----------



## charliel2

*Ladder Install and Console Drainage*

http://s15.photobucket.com/user/charliel2/story/120679


----------



## charliel2

Thanks GA Boater - I'm just north of Destin. Been all over the bay and outside the pass on flat days. Ability to run all day around here on a 6 gal. tank of gas is nice.


----------



## GA Boater

charliel2 said:


> Thanks GA Boater - I'm just north of Destin. Been all over the bay and outside the pass on flat days. Ability to run all day around here on a 6 gal. tank of gas is nice.


Awesome. I hope to get on Choctowatchee, fish reds on the bridge, and spot some cobia this year. Then unwind on crab island.

Need to pull the trigger on this thing first though.


----------



## GA Boater

charliel2 said:


> Thanks GA Boater - I'm just north of Destin. Been all over the bay and outside the pass on flat days. Ability to run all day around here on a 6 gal. tank of gas is nice.


Awesome. I hope to get on Choctowatchee, fish reds on the bridge, and spot some cobia this year. Then take it to crab island for some cold beers.

Need to pull the trigger on this thing first though.


----------



## charliel2

I bought my ProSkiff at the Destin Bass Pro. They have been surprisingly good the two times I've needed service. Once was for my 20 hour check and once for my fishfinder install. Good work and quick too.

Good luck and see you on Crab Island!


----------



## frankcr

*Charliel2*, excellent pictorials on the mods and very neat work.

Could you recommend a place to stay in the Panama City/Destin area? We would have a ball if we could tow the skiff down there and maybe catch a fish or two.

The BP cure of drilling holes in the inlet fixture looks questionable to me, as there could still be an air pocket in the pump. Does anyone have one of these and does it do the job?


----------



## panhandlekelly

charliel2 said:


> http://s15.photobucket.com/user/charliel2/story/120679


Great photo's Charliel2. Wish I seen this before I did the mod to the baitwell pump. Would have been a lot simpler, of course my wife says I tend to make things more difficult.


----------



## GA Boater

frankcr said:


> *Charliel2*, excellent pictorials on the mods and very neat work.
> 
> Could you recommend a place to stay in the Panama City/Destin area? We would have a ball if we could tow the skiff down there and maybe catch a fish or two.
> 
> The BP cure of drilling holes in the inlet fixture looks questionable to me, as there could still be an air pocket in the pump. Does anyone have one of these and does it do the job?


Motel 6 if your looking for somthing cheap and close to the boat ramp.

vrbo.com would be the place to look for nicer condos.

theres a holiday inn over there as well.

For Destin not PCB...PCB aint exactly my specialty.


----------



## tavy

frankcr said:


> The BP cure of drilling holes in the inlet fixture looks questionable to me, as there could still be an air pocket in the pump. Does anyone have one of these and does it do the job?


My 2013 had the hole drilled in the top of the pickup cover when I bought it new, and I never had any issues picking up water in the bait well. It pumped every time I flipped the switch.


----------



## charliel2

Tavy - if you get a chance can you post a pic of the hole. I just can see it in my mind. I keep imagining some type of possibly unrestricted flow of water thru the pump.


----------



## Profish00

Winters97gt said:


> Thanks, didn't think about that, but no way that's it. I've had the boat in calm water with literally no chop in the Brownsville Channel and full of water. A 30mph wind there will produce at most, 4-5 inch chop. Normal day. 2-3 inches.
> 
> It seems to be time related. Tracker said the filled the hull with water and didn't see any leaks. I really dunno. 3 different guys at Tracker have tried to figure it out, or at least one I know spent actual time with it, and they didn't get any water. But that was an hour or less. Not 1-2 days.


Dd you use your live wells that day? May be leaking over the top when on plane.


----------



## charliel2

frankcr - I don't know much about PCB. But in Destin, I personally like the *Harborwalk Village* area on the Destin Harbor. There isn't a ramp right there but there are a couple ramps on the bay side within a couple miles though. And you are almost swimming distance from Crab Island. BTW, Harborwalk Village Margaritaville just opened a few days ago. They have fireworks, live music and the Destin Fishing fleet is right there.

I live too close to ever overnight at HV but my wife does "girls weekends" there and the rooms are very nice...but pricey. 3 bedrooms run them about $450 a night...not so bad when split between a couple carloads of women though.

*Baytown Wharf in Sandestin* is also really nice but it's a haul to Crab Island...maybe 12 mile run to the Destin Pass by boat. Decent bay fishing there though. Again, live music, fireworks, etc.

My favorite 2 places to stay down there are *Topsail Hill State Park*, off of 30A, and *Henderson Inn *inDestin*. *Topsail is one of the top rated parks in the state and Henderson Inn is top rated on Trip Advisor. Topsail is between Destin and PCB, has it's own 3.5 miles of pristine beach without any condos, and 3 freshwater lakes with bass. They offer tent camping, RV sites, and cabins and have their own trolley to take you all around the park. My kids(14 and 12 year old boys) love Topsail. Bring your bike.

Henderson Inn is for a romantic getaway and is almost all-inclusive, they provide gourmet breakfast and lunch as well as snacks and an hour of free drinks at their tiki bar in the evening on the deck. The Inn is right on the beach and buts up to Henderson State Park which is also a real nice state park and closer to the main Destin area than Topsail. But, you're looking at $250-$400 per night with meals. Prices are season dependent.

If you happen to be military or retired military then take a look at www.benningmwr.com This is a hidden little jewel as far as I'm concerned. Has it's own ramp and is close to everything in Destin.

http://www.emeraldgrande.com
http://www.baytownewharf.com
http://www.floridastateparks.org/topsailhill
http://www.hendersonparkinn.com


----------



## frankcr

I appreciate the information.

We have a camper, kayaks, and 10 ft inflatable which we use when camping. That may be the ticket for going down there, but it would be nice to have the Mako. 

When we go to the Keys, we sometimes pull a trailer boat and rent a duplex on a canal which works very well. Taking the Mako we would not be able to take the camper, and we stopped tent camping when we got the camper and disposed of tent camping gear.


----------



## charliel2

frankcr - Topsail Hill or Henderson are both premier state parks for camping. Topsail is a little more out of the way from things but it offers more on-site. Henderson is right in the middle of Destin but doesn't have as much on-site. But, with Henderson, you're close to everything in Destin. You can probably rent something on Destin Harbor with a dock but I don't have any tips for you on that...we use VRBO for finding rentals in the Keys. I'm sure VRBO has some places in Destin with water access.

We're heading down to Big Pine Key for mini-season this year. We've rented a house on a canal in the Dr's Arm area of BPK. Taking the ProSkiff down and plan to snorkle, dive, spear and catch some bugs. Can't wait for that!


----------



## charliel2

*Destin GPS*

Here's my GPS file for anyone heading to Destin. Mostly public stuff.

I use EasyGPS and the Hummingbird software to manage my points and get them on my FF (Hummingbird 597ci HD). Both programs use .gpx. "Culled" just means I've removed all the geocache points and a few private spots of friends. Have fun!


----------



## highanddryinco

frankcr said:


> Could you recommend a place to stay in the Panama City/Destin area? We would have a ball if we could tow the skiff down there and maybe catch a fish or two.


 Frankcr â€" Been to Destin several times, towed the Pro Skiff from CO a couple. If youâ€™re not staying on the water with dockage, Iâ€™d recommend the little storage lot at Destin Marina. I forgot the ladyâ€™s name that runs the place but she treated us very nice. I can dig it up along with her cell. From there you can launch right by the bridge for quick access to the bay or the Gulf. When you take out at the end of the day, sheâ€™s got running water for a wash down. I canâ€™t remember if she had electric for battery charging as I didnâ€™t have the trolling motor yet when we stayed there. Also, the Dewey Destin fish shack restaurant right there at the dock is a wonderful thing. If you donâ€™t launch there, head over to Hogtown ramp. Itâ€™s small, quiet, and you can usually find some protected water. We usually go at the end of March, often quite windy. Last year, we did stay at a townhome in the harbor with a dock. Highly recommend that route. Being able to jump in the boat and go on a whim is terrific. If it blows the whole time, youâ€™re already in the harbor and can mess around in the canals. We had friendâ€™s very small children with us and both caught their first fish from my boat. Pinfish abound! Itâ€™s a little drag putt-putting to the Gulf or the Bay but not that big of a deal. Drop me a PM if youâ€™d like more info. We love the place. Have a great time! Charliel2 sounds like heâ€™s got the right idea tooâ€¦keep going south and BYOB!


----------



## GA Boater

highanddryinco said:


> Frankcr â€" Been to Destin several times, towed the Pro Skiff from CO a couple. If youâ€™re not staying on the water with dockage, Iâ€™d recommend the little storage lot at Destin Marina. I forgot the ladyâ€™s name that runs the place but she treated us very nice. I can dig it up along with her cell. From there you can launch right by the bridge for quick access to the bay or the Gulf. When you take out at the end of the day, sheâ€™s got running water for a wash down. I canâ€™t remember if she had electric for battery charging as I didnâ€™t have the trolling motor yet when we stayed there. Also, the Dewey Destin fish shack restaurant right there at the dock is a wonderful thing. If you donâ€™t launch there, head over to Hogtown ramp. Itâ€™s small, quiet, and you can usually find some protected water. We usually go at the end of March, often quite windy. Last year, we did stay at a townhome in the harbor with a dock. Highly recommend that route. Being able to jump in the boat and go on a whim is terrific. If it blows the whole time, youâ€™re already in the harbor and can mess around in the canals. We had friendâ€™s very small children with us and both caught their first fish from my boat. Pinfish abound! Itâ€™s a little drag putt-putting to the Gulf or the Bay but not that big of a deal. Drop me a PM if youâ€™d like more info. We love the place. Have a great time! Charliel2 sounds like heâ€™s got the right idea tooâ€¦keep going south and BYOB!


Denver > Destin with boat in tow? thats awesome.

youve got more adventure balls than I do.


----------



## frankcr

You have been very helpful and I sure appreciate it. This site has some of the greatest folks on the net.


----------



## daanglerguy

Winters97gt said:


> Sadly, Pete is leaving Tracker Marine in Brownsville. Today was his last day. Gonna go pick up my hoopty tomorrow before something else goes wrong with it. He was the only Tracker guy I trusted.
> 
> I was running my gym class today and didn't have long to talk to him. If somebody can PM his cell phone number, that would be great. I'd like to continue to do business with him in the future on my next boat.


This is sad to hear, we had spoken to him at the boat show on the sunday before and never mentioned it. He approached us and asked how was the boat and of course gave us tips and tricks, and stories of fishing. He was a good manager, as a matter of fact, that following Monday, we went out to Arroyo City, foggy as heck, ran into some shallow but remembered his words from when we bought boat, if motor over heats remove the thermosat, let the mud out and it will be up and running again. Called BP and all they could say is bring it in and we can check it tomorrow. They couldn't even offer the advice he did. Sad to hear. If anyone knows where he went, let me know.


----------



## eyesneers

*SI/DI mount for my Lowrance HDS7 with structure scan*

Joebucko(and anyone else interested), here are the photos of how I mounted my DI and SI transducers. The long one is the SI transducer- the keys as I remember was the SI had to be lower than the DI and on the outside of it. I tried to shem them so they wouldn't be at the angle of the boat(our boat tilts in toward the boat a good bit at the back)- but it isn't perfect. That didn't seem to matter- I get good images with this set up(the structure scan is awesome). With the right kind of conditions you can image out 250 ft on either side of the boat. I put it in last summer(after crappie prime time here). I can't wait to look for brush piles with it this spring! The SI holds up well at low speed but isn't designed for high speed applications. Hope this helps someone!


----------



## joebucko

Thanks Eyesneers that helps a lot. I ordered my Humminbird 999si today.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*glad you posted these images*



charliel2 said:


> http://s15.photobucket.com/user/charliel2/story/120751


charliel2:

thanks for posting those photos on the bait well pump. your configuration is the simplest so far and the one i intend to duplicate. cheers!


----------



## highanddryinco

GA Boater said:


> Denver > Destin with boat in tow? thats awesome.
> 
> youve got more adventure balls than I do.


Adventure balls or Adventure rocks on the brain...debatable. 
That said, If any you fellow Pro-Skiffers have no use for your console cover that came with the boat...Drop me a line with your sale price. At over 10,000 road miles, mine is starting to show some significant wear. 
Denver > Florida x 2 and Denver > Lake Michigan x 2 and always the best of weather conditions...not!
Knock on wood, a good testament to the Vault trailer bearing hub system.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*Mako shipping cover*

Highanddryinco, 
I'm not sure how far it is to your TM/BP store but you might try reaching out to the service manager on saving you one after they take one off for delivery. That's how it worked out for me here in Fort Lauderdale.


----------



## highanddryinco

FlatsCat, actually was thinking of the "console only" cover. Mine came with a nice custom fit Mako branded cover with cinch line tightener around the bottom. Maybe the newer ones aren't coming with them? I never use it other than for long distance towing. I was thinking maybe some of the group here that are fortunate to be right on the water might just have theirs tucked away somewhere.


----------



## Jonc

*Deck Liner Thickness*

Hi Guys... Finally drilled my deck liner today in order to mount my leaning post. Here's a couple of dimensions that could perhaps assist in avoiding a really bad day.

* Small holes but I guestimate the deck liner to be approximately 3/16" - 1/4" thick.

* The distance from the top of the deck liner to the hull is 5/8"

Spring can't come soon enough up here, hell of a winter.

jonc


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## Jstone

*Big problem when launching*

Hello,
This is my first ever post as a member. I wanted to let every Mako owner be aware of what to watch for when getting ready to launch your Mako Skiff.
I have a 16 I bought last June. I had it in for warranty work for a fiberglass bubble flaw back by the upper drain deck in front of the motor.
The work looked great but the problem became apparent when I tried to launch yesterday at Lake Livingston (water was cool but it was 77 degrees)
I tightened the lower drain and put the plug in the inside bottom drain hole, backed the boat in, started the motor to see if it was a go. When I looked around (the boat was still on the trailer) the back end of the boat was filling up with water (yes I had taken off the straps). I quickly jumped in my truck and pulled up the ramp. Water poured out of the plugged drain hole. I even turned the bilge pump on to get the water out faster (a lot of water)
Turns out I believe the fiberglass repair shop (They even took the motor off to fix it) lost my plug and replaced it with another plug that did not grip the side of the drain hole when engaged. I'm just glad I did not back the boat off the trailer. Anyway apparently the water pressure pushed the plug out.
It does go on the inside correct? After the incident I tried the plug again and I can easily pull the plug out after it is engaged.
Sorry for being so long winded. Love the blog, Love my boat.


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## tavy

If it is the standard flip type plug that came with the Mako, then it is adjustable.

Put it in the hole, (I go from the inside as well), then 'screw' it until just snug, then flip it closed. The width of the plug changes when you rotate the handle, then the flip pulls it a bit tighter.


----------



## Jstone

*Plug*

Thanks for that valuable tip. I will try it. It still looks old so I am going to get a new one just in case The rubber grips look worn.
I have learn so much on this blog. Better that an owners manual!


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## joebucko

Thanks Jonc
Very good to know the deck/floor is approx. 1/4" thick but better to know the distance from the deck to the hull is only 5/8". Hope you thaw out soon.


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## charliel2

JStone - buy two and carry a spare.


----------



## Jstone

*Plug*

Charliel2
Thanks I will.


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## MakoMarc

I pick my Pro 17 up this weekend. I researched as much as possible and feel the Mako offers a big return for the price.


----------



## panhandlekelly

MakoMarc said:


> I pick my Pro 17 up this weekend. I researched as much as possible and feel the Mako offers a big return for the price.


Congratulations! I love my boat, it is everything I hoped it would be. There are/were a few minor irritating problems, but all-in-all, a very versatile boat.
Happy boating.


----------



## 24Buds

MakoMarc said:


> I pick my Pro 17 up this weekend. I researched as much as possible and feel the Mako offers a big return for the price.


Congrats. I have followed this thread for some time. I don't own one but I do like the looks. After this thread, seems like its a great choice.

Welcome to the forum


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## MakoMarc

Thanks, It's my first boat. The deal they made was too good to pass up.


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## TXPIRATE

Does anyone know if they have fixed the issues in the 2014 models that have been reported in the older models? Bait well, water in hull, ect


----------



## Winters97gt

No, they have not fixed those issues.


----------



## joebucko

TXPIRATE
The best fix to date for the live well issue was recently posted here. Its simple and straightforward. For most owners the issue is little more than an inconvenience. 
Water in the hull has been reported by the owners of several boats on this site. Most of these have turned out to be things as simple as a drain plug not being sufficiently tightened or improper sealing of a through hull fitting. 

Winters97gt has the most severe problem I am aware of and so far Tracker/Mako has apparently been unable to determine the cause or fix the problem. 

My boat is one of the first ones produced and I can honestly say I haven't had any boat issues that required dealer service. Initially I was getting some water in the hull but as it turned out I was just not tightening the metal drain plug enough to allow the 'O'ring to seal. Once I tightened it sufficiently my water issue disappeared.


----------



## frankcr

I feel very sorry for Winters, as he has a real problem. Other than his issue of water in the hull, that has only been a problem for one or two who reported a leak in the control cable tube. BP replaced some hulls having this defect. Others with concerns cured their problem once they made sure the hull drain plug was properly sealed and the plug properly installed. 

Unless a hull or liner is damaged, there is very little chance of water entering the hull. The only openings to the hull where water may enter is through the hull drain, the cable tube, or motor mounting bolt holes below the water level.

If Winters boat has been checked to see that there is no leak in the cable tube, chances are that his hull has a leak point, split, or bad section of fiberglass. It is not a common problem by any means. 

Mako has sold a great many Skiffs, so if leakage into the hull were a common problem, we would be deluged with reports of that condition. I would not even consider water in the hull issues before purchasing one.

If anyone is concerned about the bait well pump, that problem is an easy fix. It is a simple situation whereby the pump suction must be flooded for dependable service.


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## MakoMarc

I'm sure if I go back through the thread I will find the answer but for the people who own this boat. I know there are a lot of factors that come to play such as weather and sea conditions but

How far out in the gulf would you take this boat?
99.9% of the time I will be 100 yards max offshore


----------



## frankcr

If I planned to use a boat for offshore work, I would go for a vee bottom, self bailing hull as sea conditions can change rapidly. Off Georgia, 3 foot seas are normal with higher seas in the inlets and a hull such as the skiff is not designed for that. We have come home with our tails between our legs after a pleasant day offshore in a 20 foot self bailing hull too many times to take chances.

The real answer to your question is how long would it take you to get back to sheltered waters if conditions deteriorated? One wave over the bow would ruin your day for sure.

An old adage is that there is a boat for any sea and a sea for any boat. The skiff is designed for sheltered to moderate waters.


----------



## TXPIRATE

thanks to all. I really like the way the boat looks. It is just with Mako's past reputation I am a little concerned. I would almost have to think though if a company was going to stay in business they would have to get their act together.


----------



## MakoMarc

I am in high end sales of a consumer reports best you can buy product. I know for fact that some of my customers are going to have problems and some are going to have nightmare problems. This forum of actual owners has eased my mind enough that I can pull the trigger and buy the boat.


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## frankcr

TXPIRATE, we thoroughly enjoy our skiff, but with your doubts, you should probably not purchase one. You would always be looking for problems in the back of your mind which would not be conducive to enjoying the rig.

MakoMark, you will enjoy a skiff very much. Let us know how you like it when you get it in the water.


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## MakoMarc

I can't wait to fish the Pine Island area in the new boat. I just hope I am the first one to catch a fish out of my new boat. I see a new rule for my boat. No one catches a fish before me rule #1 haha


----------



## KiteboarderDoug

I live in Sarasota and feel very comfortable taking in several miles off shore. I verify calm winds for the days and go out very early before the breeze starts picking up by noon..
I go to the Keys and go 3-4 miles out to the reef. Its about common sense and being ever vigilant about the weather. Up to 3' seas for me are no problem but I come in at a reasonable speed in those seas and I make it a point to leave if conditions are pointing toward higher winds. If the predictions are showing less than 10 knots then I am good to go. Otherwise I am not into getting wet over and over...


----------



## MakoMarc

KiteboarderDoug said:


> I live in Sarasota and feel very comfortable taking in several miles off shore. I verify calm winds for the days and go out very early before the breeze starts picking up by noon..
> I go to the Keys and go 3-4 miles out to the reef. Its about common sense and being ever vigilant about the weather. Up to 3' seas for me are no problem but I come in at a reasonable speed in those seas and I make it a point to leave if conditions are pointing toward higher winds. If the predictions are showing less than 10 knots then I am good to go. Otherwise I am not into getting wet over and over...


Thanks, I hope to do the same in the Keys.


----------



## prod1944

I agree on the pick your days. Alot of days in the summer the water is like glass in the Keys and off Miami. I will!!! catch dolphin when I get my boat and I hope that will 
be soon. Common sense an be aware of your surroundings.


----------



## modestmike

I have taken mine out close to 17 miles offshore.....with a 25hp tiller. Pick your days and know your limits.


----------



## MakoMarc

modestmike said:


> I have taken mine out close to 17 miles offshore.....with a 25hp tiller. Pick your days and know your limits.


I am thinking my personal comfort range will be in that 2-5 mile range. There are several spots in that range that I hope to fish


----------



## frankcr

Sounds like you guys have your heads screwed on right by limiting weather and wave exposure. I also want to get our boat to the Keys and enjoy the calm seas. As it is a little rough with strong tidal flow normally in local waters, we have to be very careful about big water.

Anytime someone unknown asks about taking a boat to sea, you have to be cautious with a reply. You can get into a mess out there, so you do not want to encourage a newby to get in over his head. 

The wind changed on us once and we came in on 8 foot seas with breaking water coming in over the sides of the boat. Luckily the boat self bailed between breakers coming into the boat. It was an unexpected weather change not forecast in advance  The inlet looked like a cotton field.


----------



## MakoMarc

frankcr said:


> Sounds like you guys have your heads screwed on right by limiting weather and wave exposure. I also want to get our boat to the Keys and enjoy the calm seas. As it is a little rough with strong tidal flow normally in local waters, we have to be very careful about big water.
> 
> Anytime someone unknown asks about taking a boat to sea, you have to be cautious with a reply. You can get into a mess out there, so you do not want to encourage a newby to get in over his head.
> 
> The wind changed on us once and we came in on 8 foot seas with breaking water coming in over the sides of the boat. Luckily the boat self bailed between breakers coming into the boat. It was an unexpected weather change not forecast in advance  The inlet looked like a cotton field.


I totally agree, That's why I'm asking people with experiance with the same boat I purchased. If several of them with much more experiance than me said 5 miles was the max they go out, then I know I need to adjust my way of thinking down as to how far out my skill level will take me. It's when people don't have anyhing to guage their skill level against that they run into trouble. Yes there are some that will say "If JimBob can take his boat out 30 miles so can I".... I'm not that guy,


----------



## frankcr

You are being very wise. As the Mako would be in severe trouble if a wave came in over the bow or poured in from the stern in a following sea, bad things would happen fast. Going into the waves going out, you can get lulled into believing you have it made without taking into consideration what a following sea will be on the way back in. If it is questionable at all, reverse course and test how bad the following sea will be from time to time.

As the land heats up around here, it is common to have seas reverse directions and blow towards land later in the day. That is when things tend to get nasty.

Rather than questioning how far you can go, keep in mind how long it will take you to get in calmer water on the way back. Always keep in mind that it will take more time if the wind changes on you.

Just take it slow and get familiar with the sea conditions in your area before seeing how far over the horizon you can go. Even river chop can be nasty around here due to strong tides and wind.


----------



## MakoMarc

Very true...thanks for the feedback.


----------



## Winters97gt

modestmike said:


> I have taken mine out close to 17 miles offshore.....with a 25hp tiller. Pick your days and know your limits.


Mike is very familiar with the waters we both fish in, the Lower Laguna Madre. He has brass ones for going that far past the jetties, but also knows the waters well.

I've put the Mako in 35mph winds crossing bays in 3ft plus chop where the chop/waves were a good 6 inches over my head while puttering through it. Just know where and when to go. Also, realize this is not a skinny boat. Don't try to hug the shoreline in high winds miles from dock like you might in other skinny boats.

A good entry level, affordable boat. If you fish every week, be prepared for minor issues.


----------



## MakoMarc

Picked up the boat today, 7-10 inches of snow forecast for tomorrow. Just my luck


----------



## daanglerguy

Took boat to BPS to have fishfinder/chartplotter installed and as well as a hour meter and water pressure gauge installed. Jesse is the man to see, his a good guy, knows alot, since Pete decided to move on.


----------



## KiteboarderDoug

*Mako In The Keys..*



MakoMarc said:


> Thanks, I hope to do the same in the Keys.


We take the boat out to Molasses Reef all the time.. Summer time early am is awesome because we have so many glass days out there,


----------



## joebucko

*Transducer mounted directly in front of the engine*

Has anyone mounted their transducer directly in front of the engine(center of the transom) instead of on the outside Starboard corner? How does it work and does turbulence from the transducer cause any issues with the propeller/cavitation/ventilation/blowout?

I am in the process of installing the large transducer for a Humminbird 999 Side Imaging sonar. I prefer to mount this beast (6" long x 2.5"wide) on the transom almost directly in front of the engine. I have a jackplate installed so there is plenty of room for the transducer to work but I am concerned that if it is mounted too low it might create enough turbulence to cause the propeller to blow out on occasion. I can mount it higher so that at speed the SI transducer is actually out of the water but I'd need to install an auxiliary transducer for high speed operation and traditional sonar. 
I am trying to avoid the need for the auxiliary transducer.
Thanks


----------



## Jonc

*Transducer*

Hey Joe B..

May not be the best comparison to guide you however I tried that mounting idea on my 12' inflatable with a 20 h.p. Tohatsu simply because I had no other option. The sonar worked fine at under 5m.p.h. But simply got lost at faster speeds due to the turbulence.

Now, the inflatable has an inflatable keel so it's somewhat a V bottom and not flat like most. I would assume the side strakes on the Pro Skiff would help in directing the aerated water away from the center but I'd bet from my experience that you'll wind up relocating it elsewhere.

Jonc


----------



## MakoMadness

So here is what I am dealing with, I just recently had my Lowrance Elite 7 HDI mounted. Bass pro Shop mounted to the right of the motor exactly where the manual said to mount it and at the appropriate angle. So the first time I took it out It worked fine at 2-3 MPH, but if I get up past 5-6 MPH I get blue thin vertical lines that streak the page. I can see the picture behind these lines and it looks pretty good. My question is do you guys think this could be a settings problem or do you think it is a transducer mounting problem? The guy at Bass Pro told me the transducer works off radio waves so the turbulence from the motor should not mess up the picture. I have been playing with the settings a lot lately so I'm not exactly sure what they are set on now, but even after playing with them I have not been able to get it fixed (although I could have just made it much worse). I am trying to post some pics from the water.

My second question is for on board charger mounts, has anyone mounted their own or had BPS do one? I would love to see how you did it. I am guessing I have to have to chargers, one for the front TM battery and one for the cranking battery.


----------



## MakoMadness

*Pics*

Trying again


----------



## MakoMadness

*Jawja Boy*



MakoMadness said:


> Trying again


You can see the problem in the last picture really good, the left half of the screen was at about 3 MPH, as I started to accelerate to 6 MPH the lines start showing up again. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## joebucko

MakoMadness
Your interference is most likely being caused by water turbulence around the transducer there is probably nothing wrong with the unit itself. Getting the transducer positioned accurately takes some trial and error. My Humminbird Di was the same way. At speeds up to about 6mph it was fine but after that all I got was crappy screens on the regular sonar. I still had my bottom readings just not good screen shots. After numerous small adjustments I worked it out.

Can you post a couple of pictures of the actual transducer mount including one closeup. It may help diagnose your problem and save you some time.


----------



## panhandlekelly

MakoMadness said:


> So here is what I am dealing with, I just recently had my Lowrance Elite 7 HDI mounted. Bass pro Shop mounted to the right of the motor exactly where the manual said to mount it and at the appropriate angle. So the first time I took it out It worked fine at 2-3 MPH, but if I get up past 5-6 MPH I get blue thin vertical lines that streak the page. I can see the picture behind these lines and it looks pretty good. My question is do you guys think this could be a settings problem or do you think it is a transducer mounting problem? The guy at Bass Pro told me the transducer works off radio waves so the turbulence from the motor should not mess up the picture. I have been playing with the settings a lot lately so I'm not exactly sure what they are set on now, but even after playing with them I have not been able to get it fixed (although I could have just made it much worse). I am trying to post some pics from the water.
> 
> My second question is for on board charger mounts, has anyone mounted their own or had BPS do one? I would love to see how you did it. I am guessing I have to have to chargers, one for the front TM battery and one for the cranking battery.


If you look back at some of my post you can see how I did it. I charge both batteries at the same time. It has worked out very well.


----------



## MakoMadness

ok here are some pictures of the mount, I thought it looked pretty good when I picked her up. They did not use a stern saver so if it has to be moved I guess they will need to epoxy the holes. Do you think they can just re-adjust the angle without taking the screws all out, or will it have to be completely moved?

Thanks for the info on the battery charger I will go back and take a look.


----------



## eyesneers

MakoMadness said:


> So here is what I am dealing with, I just recently had my Lowrance Elite 7 HDI mounted. Bass pro Shop mounted to the right of the motor exactly where the manual said to mount it and at the appropriate angle. So the first time I took it out It worked fine at 2-3 MPH, but if I get up past 5-6 MPH I get blue thin vertical lines that streak the page. I can see the picture behind these lines and it looks pretty good. My question is do you guys think this could be a settings problem or do you think it is a transducer mounting problem? The guy at Bass Pro told me the transducer works off radio waves so the turbulence from the motor should not mess up the picture. I have been playing with the settings a lot lately so I'm not exactly sure what they are set on now, but even after playing with them I have not been able to get it fixed (although I could have just made it much worse). I am trying to post some pics from the water.
> 
> My second question is for on board charger mounts, has anyone mounted their own or had BPS do one? I would love to see how you did it. I am guessing I have to have to chargers, one for the front TM battery and one for the cranking battery.


I have the HDS7 with structure scan and posted pictures of the mount a few pages back. Is the elite DI only or also SI? The SI won't work at 6mph- but my DI works fine at that speed. I would adjust the angle of the transducer slightly and see if that helps.


----------



## eyesneers

*I didn't see the mount pictures Mako*

Looks like a DI transducer- you should be able to just loosen the little screw in the bracket and adjust the angle of the transducer with the bottom of the boat- no need to move the bracket position on the boat.


----------



## eyesneers

joebucko said:


> Has anyone mounted their transducer directly in front of the engine(center of the transom) instead of on the outside Starboard corner? How does it work and does turbulence from the transducer cause any issues with the propeller/cavitation/ventilation/blowout?
> 
> I am in the process of installing the large transducer for a Humminbird 999 Side Imaging sonar. I prefer to mount this beast (6" long x 2.5"wide) on the transom almost directly in front of the engine. I have a jackplate installed so there is plenty of room for the transducer to work but I am concerned that if it is mounted too low it might create enough turbulence to cause the propeller to blow out on occasion. I can mount it higher so that at speed the SI transducer is actually out of the water but I'd need to install an auxiliary transducer for high speed operation and traditional sonar.
> I am trying to avoid the need for the auxiliary transducer.
> Thanks


Joebucko, everything I watched and found with my unit said the SI transducer needed to be several feet from the motor to avoid interference, and also if you mount the DI transducer it goes inside and higher. That was the rules for the Lowrance- Hummingbird may be different.


----------



## MakoMadness

Ok, great I will try that eyesneers. Ill let ya know if that works


----------



## joebucko

MakoMadness
Your DI transducer is mounted in the same location as my Humminbird Di. When I first mounted mine I had to fiddle with it a bit to get the depth correct but even after that I could not get my regular sonar to read correctly above 8mph. Another skiff owner asked me if the transducer was straight(in line with the main axis of the hull). Because it was mounted on the angled part of the transom(like yours) it was not and this resulted in a lot more turbulence at the transducer. I then shimmed the transducer to straighten it out and suddenly my regular sonar would read cleanly above 20mph. Here is what mine looks like now.


----------



## MakoMadness

*Jawja Boy*

****! I probably should have used a stern saver. I will let them know at BPS and see what they come up with,


----------



## Jstone

*Stern Saver*

Love the info:
So if I take my Hummingbird 597 ci HD DI transducer off so I can fab a stern saver with the correct angles what is the best way to fill the holes...
3M 5200 or fiberglass epoxy or something else?


----------



## frankcr

A good caulk in the holes under the stern saver will do the job.


----------



## joebucko

Jstone
I use 3M 5200 for most sealing jobs but there are a lot of good quality sealants available. The one thing I don't like about 5200 is that after opening it tends to harden in the tube after several days/weeks. I have been told that after opening it lasts a lot longer if kept in the refrigerator.


----------



## Jstone

*Stern Saver*

Thanks guys for the advice!
Going fishing tomorrow (Lake Livingston, Texas!)


----------



## LitUp

*shim*

Joebucko what are the dimensions of the shim you made, i am also have trouble at speeds above 6mph


----------



## joebucko

Litup
The shim is made from starboard and measures apprx 2.5" square. Thickest part (outside edge)is just a bit more than .5" thick tapering to 0(zero).


----------



## EMAXXBUDIES

*LOOK what this guy in florida is selling*

look at this tricked out skiff on the market in florida
http://www.boattrader.com/listing/2013-Mako-Pro-17-Skiff-607723


----------



## Jonc

*Blue Tooth Sound*

Hey Guys,

Been pretty quite on this thread so here's something for all of us gizmo addicts. Been looking for a decent wireless blue tooth speaker system that I could use from boat to boat, camper, etc.

Bought a Braven wireless speaker this weekend, measure 3"x5", and has amazing sound for a small wireless unit. Water resistant, which handles rain and spray (not submersible) and sits nicely behind the wind screen on our consoles. The nice thing is with a touch of a button you can talk on your phone thru the speaker system and disconnect any incoming calls while your phone is stowed away in a safe waterproof container. A bit pricey at $170 but well worth it if you have multiple needs for outdoor sound.

Jonc


----------



## MakoMadness

*Jawja Boy*

I have a similar speaker also but it is not water proof, we use it around the house and planning on using it on the boat as well, does great with Spotify from my phone. I am still waiting on taking the boat to Bass Pro Shop to have that shim put on the transducer. I am just to scared to do it myself. I guess Bass Pro would do something like that not exactly sure. 
Also after bringing the boat in the other day I noticed I already have a small chip in the fiberglass on the back of the boat, it is pretty small but need to get that fixed asap. Funny story I was going to try and fasten a rope to the back of the boat and a tree so I could pull the boat off the trailer about an inch or so to get to the chip so I could fix it but when I get in the boat and saw my wife watching intently I just couldn't go through with it. I guess I will just back into the water and not put it all the way back on so I can get to it. Anyway thought I would share that .


----------



## Jstone

Anybody have experience on getting a skeg straightened? Thursday wide open I hit an underwater tree in 20 feet of water just off the river channel on Lake Livingston.
The boat shuddered when I hit but it still ran okay. I stopped raised the motor but could not see anything until I put it on the trailer. Top speed dropped off and a spray of water shot over the back end into the drain well by the motor at speed. I pulled it out of the water and saw the damage. The prop seems fine. Dropped it off at the dealer and I am waiting on an estimate.
Crossed fingers for an affordable fix.


----------



## Jonc

*Skeg protectors*

I've banged mine up plenty of times on my river/stream inflatable boat and finally purchased a skeg protector a few years ago from Cabelas. They bolt on and hang a couple of inches below the bottom of your skeg and will simply bounce off rocks or any other obstruction. If you find yourself in shallow water often, it's a must.

They advertise that installing one doesn't affect performance and with my experience that is true. I've even seen guys with completely broken off lower skegs install these and keep on running. The brand I bought was I think a river mikes brand or something mikes and it has performed great.

Must be warm fishing weather down there in Texas which is why this thread died down. Got a trip for southern Indiana in two weeks providing the ice is off. Still have about a foot and a half. Up at my lake yesterday and guys were driving down the middle of the lake in the're pick ups to their ice shanties.never witnessed this much ice so late in the year.


----------



## joebucko

Jonc
BBBBBRRRRRR I got cold just reading your post.

Its getting warmer here in North Texas. Water temp is 53degs and the bass are starting to move up in pre-spawn. I fished probably 6 times during the winter with no luck. Last week I finally caught my first fish of the season. 3.5lb largemouth male while my compadre caught an equivalent size smallmouth. Going Monday and Tuesday mornings this week hoping to improve on the quantity.

Over the winter I upgraded my Humminbird 597ci HDdi to the new HB 999si. I should have that dialed in now and will give it the first real test tomorrow. Report to follow.

If anyone needs a HB 597ci HD Di in excellent condition let me know before I list in on Ebay. $375 with free shipping to anywhere in the lower 48.


----------



## Jstone

*Texas Fishing*

Thanks for the skeg protector info. Lake Livingston was 59 last Thursday.
I heard the white bass were firing up. Was going for large mouth bass last Thursday before I hit the underwater tree.
I used to live in Ohio a long time ago, I know about cold weather.
hope the sun warms you up soon.
Have not caught my first fish yet this season. Now the boat is in the shop.

North Texas has some fine lakes to fish.


----------



## Jstone

*Update on bent skeg*

Looks like the lower unit needs to be replaced. $$$$$$$$$$$$$
Good thing I have insurance ($ 500 deductible)

Going to also replace the bent aluminum with a stainless steel prop.


----------



## KiteboarderDoug

*Best Boat Cleaner*

I apologize in advance if this has been discussed before but I couldn't find anything in the archives so what do you guys find works best for cleaning your Mako's deck and floor? I am trying to keep mine looking brand new as long as i can but feel I am working too hard to achieve that.


----------



## panhandlekelly

I am using bleach water with Dawn and a stiff deck brush. I haven't found a simple way to clean the non-skid surfaces yet. Caution: don't get bleach water on the vinyl, it was cause the threads to deteriorate.

I like to keep mine looking new also.


----------



## Jonc

I've used Clorox cleanup on all my boats for years and it works great on everything. The trick is to also use a couple of drops of dish washing detergent to keep it suspended. Let it sit a while before you wipe or scrub it off so it can work everything loose.

Jonc


----------



## KiteboarderDoug

*Clean Boat*

Thanks for the feedback guys. I really appreciate it..


----------



## FlyItAll

*Deck Cleaner*

Early in this thread one of the guys suggested "Starbrite Non-skid Deck Cleaner with PTEF". I bought some and have used it several times. It works better than I ever imagined. You spread it around with a deck brush, let it sit a few minutes, scrub with the deck brush and hose it off. It is supposed to leave some PTEF material behind which minimizes future stains. I only use it every third or fourth time I go out.


----------



## FlyItAll

*Boat Cleaner*

While we are talking cleaners.....I try to clean my hull and motor as soon as I pull the boat out. Sometimes I wet one towel and wipe it clean and immediately wipe it dry with another towel. This works OK, but I still get water spots particularly on the motor. I try to remember to bring a squirt bottle with vinegar and water to use before I dry it and this works pretty well, but is there a better way to do it at the lake? Any great products for this?


----------



## frankcr

Hull cleaner uses oxy acid to remove stains. Be careful using it as it can be a bad acid.

That Starbrite cleaner/protector for gel coat which I have not tried sounds like a winner. You don't want to end up with a slick floor. You do want to seal the finish though to prevent further staining.

After seeing bleach in action in industry, I am very careful about using it.


----------



## MakoMadness

*Jawja Boy*

Hey JoeBuck,
Would you happened to have any of that starboard left from your shim? I only need that small piece and don't want to spend $30.00 for a whole board. I don't really have the tools for cutting out the measurements either. I would be more than happy to send you whatever it costs to pay for this piece, labor for cutting it and shipping. I am afraid I will cut it wrong and will end up having to re-drill 100 times.


----------



## LitUp

*trailor lights*

any one had issues with their trailor lights, like the brake lights and blinkers work but the tail lights dont,


----------



## Winters97gt

What I found with the finished deck, is don't use any shoes with a harder sole. I used some open dress/sandal shoes for wade fishing. They aren't completely hard bottom like dress shoes, but much harder than tennis shoes. When real wet, I've rubbed them real hard while fighting big Jacks. The black mark they leave is a PITB to clean.

Fished last weekend. Limited out on trout and sheepshead fairly quick both days(threw the sheepshead back). Reds were spotty, but I'll get them this weekend or next as the SPI water starts to warm up. Bad news, is the same old news.


----------



## Winters97gt

LitUp said:


> any one had issues with their trailor lights, like the brake lights and blinkers work but the tail lights dont,


Mine have all gone out 4-5 times in 9 months. There hasn't been a single light on the trailer/boat I haven't replaced 3 times.


----------



## joebucko

Early on I had several trailer lights go out. I watched the BassPro videos on trailering and one of the suggestions was to unplug the harness before you back into the water. I now do that routinely and since I started unplugging the trailer I have not replaced a single light bulb. The thermal shock of the hot bulb hitting the cold water was apparently causing the problem.


----------



## Winters97gt

Problem is with mine, I had multiple lights go out before the boat even hit the water 20 minutes after I bought the boat. Same thing on the running lights. Tracker attempted to fix them multiple times, with no luck. Figured I'd try another tow vehicle to make sure they weren't getting too much juice, so used my old man's new f150. No luck. Lights crapped out without even being sunk at night, just turned on when it went dark. 

I've received way more PM's, and honestly haven't had the time to reply to them all. The most telling was the extensive email from the Original Poster of this giant thread.


----------



## Jonc

*Lights*

I'm with you JoeB as the cause is thermal shock 99:/: of the time. You'd think a guy could remember to unplug them every time and give them a chance to cool, but it happens.

I've found over the years that you just need to change the lights out about every 3-4 years as the non treated metal contacts do corrode often times causing them to either flicker or work for a while and simply stop and so on. I'd pull the lenses off and inspect each contact particularly with all you salt water fisherman down there. Good news! Snow is finally gone, ice is mostly off but the water is still about 40 degrees. Fishing next weekend, looks like deep and slow to have any chance.

Jonc


----------



## joebucko

Jonc,
If you posted a picture of your installed Leaning Post I missed it. If not please post one.

It should be nearing prime bass fishing time here in North Texas but our weather/wind had been so crappy I can't get on the water.


----------



## frankcr

A trailer light is a very simple mechanism which suffers from ground fault, corrosion, shock, thermal problems, and connections from time to time. Trailers do not have shock absorbers, so the lights live a hard life. Cannot understand the problems some seem to have as being unusual. 

When the sockets rusted, I just replaced with new LEDs and no more problems. If you want a fool proof job, put marine wire on the trailer with heat sealed connectors. Salt is nasty stuff which loves metals.

Hey, Jonc, finally got a chance to get our Mako in the water today, but missed the tide. It was still nice to be out on the water again. There are baby shrimp in the water, so in a few weeks things will get interesting here.


----------



## charliel2

*Lights*

Another good option to help with extending the life of trailer lights is to mount them (brake&turn lights) on top of a 48"-60" bunk poles. This way the lights never get submerged in saltwater. And avoid connections below the waterline as much as possible.

Something like this...
http://www.boattrailerparts.com/Incandescent-Pipe-Light-Kit-for-Boat-Trailer-Guide-Poles_p_14.html

http://www.boattrailerparts.com/LED...LED-Side-Markers-for-Boat-Trailers_p_823.html


----------



## Jonc

*Leaning Post*

Here you go Joe B.

With the clearance of only 5/8" from the liner to the hull I could only come up with a couple of mounting ideas. Since there's obviously no big water in Indiana I decided to lay down an 1/8" bed of 3m 5200 and fasten it down with 1/4" SS deep thread screws. I figured I wouldn't stress it with my body weight too much with limited waves up here unlike you saltwater guys down there. It's rock solid now but time will be the pure test.

My other idea was to adhere a piece of starboard in the same footprint, radius the corners and roll the edges which would be safe and somewhat look decent and adhere the starboard to the deck liner with 5200 and screws. I can't believe it would flex at all with that installation and thought it was overkill for the reason stated above.

I now have way more space in the stern area and my Yeti Roadie fits perfectly underneath.

Jonc


----------



## joebucko

Nice job Jonc. It looks terrific. By the way, 3M 5200 doesn't permanently bond to starboard so good thing you did not go that route. I will have to give the floor fastener issue some thought. There must be some sort of stainless or nylon fitting that would work.

This same leaning post would be a nice addition to the Pro17 as it would give additional walk around clearance.


----------



## Jonc

Good to know on the starboard Joe... I looked at countless anchor possibilities thru our hardware suppliers and couldn't find any toggle type anchor that would expand with only 1/2" of clearance. The deep thread screws provided more bite than any of the push in expandable anchors I could find. If you come up with anything, please let me know.

Jonc


----------



## panhandlekelly

Does anyone know what color starboard matches our boats color the closest?


----------



## Jonc

I would recommend the white panhandlekelly which is really an oyster color.


----------



## FlyItAll

*Starboard Color*

Panhandle- I ordered "seafoam" from King Starboard and it matches real well.


----------



## panhandlekelly

FlyItAll said:


> Panhandle- I ordered "seafoam" from King Starboard and it matches real well.


Thanks for the input guy's


----------



## panhandlekelly

I am now looking for a travel cover for my boat with a trolling motor. I only want it for traveling as I keep the boat inside so I am, hopefully, looking for a pre-made cover. Any advice?


----------



## Jstone

*Jonc Question*

Hi, I love your Mods!
I just noticed your rod holders on your stern. 
I bought some just like these and would like a pic and advice on how you mounted yours.
Would you be able yo oblige me?


----------



## fishingmagnet

You know ,i decided to get mako skiff 16 before i read this thread. It is because i can fit it in my 20ft garage with the swingimg tongue of course , And after spending hours and hours reading this, i realized that i hit the jackpot. This threads provided a wealth of information that is you cannot find anywhere else. You guys are great with all of your knowledge on boat. I would to thank each and everyone of you for contributing your skills and know how to this topic. 

I am not sure if anyone has look into this or not. Like the different in performance between the 16 and the 17 ft skiff. Please correct if i am.wrong, i like to think the different is only the.length and the extra hatch opening at the bow. But thinking of paying for storage seems like a waste of money. That is whay i would prefer a boat that can fit in my garage.


----------



## FlyItAll

Welcome to the thread Fishingmagnet! Fitting into the garage was also high on my list, the summers here in AZ are brutal and take a toll on a boat even when covered.


----------



## FlyItAll

*Keeping an Outboaed straight when towing*

It bugs me when my outboard turns fuul to the right or left while I'm towing. It seems to distort the rubber cradle on the outboard support bracket. I am sure it is no big deal, but I would like to keep it straight. Anyone found a product to do this or created something? Thought I'd ask before I jury rig something. Thanks.


----------



## frankcr

Shock cords or rope should allow restriction of swinging of the motor.


----------



## FlyItAll

*Keeping Outboard Motor Straight while Towing*

I start my trips with the motor straight and supported by the manufacturers supplied support bracket which attaches to the trailer frame. Towing forces and vibration gradually cause the motor to lay to the right or the left just like you had turned the steering wheel a full 2.5 turns. My goal is to keep the motor straight. I am thinking I would need to either secure the steering wheel or somehow secure the back edge of the motor to the trailer.

Frank- I've been thinking about rope, although there is no convenient way to secure it to the motor. Was thinking of some sort of rubber V block secured on a rope to rest on the back of the motor and tie the ends of the rope to the trailer where the transom straps go.


----------



## wag1551

fishingmagnet said:


> You know ,i decided to get mako skiff 16 before i read this thread. It is because i can fit it in my 20ft garage with the swingimg tongue of course , And after spending hours and hours reading this, i realized that i hit the jackpot. This threads provided a wealth of information that is you cannot find anywhere else. You guys are great with all of your knowledge on boat. I would to thank each and everyone of you for contributing your skills and know how to this topic.
> 
> I am not sure if anyone has look into this or not. Like the different in performance between the 16 and the 17 ft skiff. Please correct if i am.wrong, i like to think the different is only the.length and the extra hatch opening at the bow. But thinking of paying for storage seems like a waste of money. That is whay i would prefer a boat that can fit in my garage.


fishingmagnet:
I had a 16 with a 25 hp motor, which I bought from the 2nd owner but it had never been in the water. It was ok for 2 people but even then, it was sluggish getting on a plane. When I pulled grand nieces on a tube, it would only go about 16 mph. I got a good deal trading it in on a 17 with a 60 hp. The 17 is longer, wider and, I think, deeper. It is easier to get around the console and, with the larger motor, it goes about 12 mph faster and planes almost instantly. It will handle 5-6 adults easily. It doesn't weigh much more but, even with the swing away tongue, it barely fits in my 22' garage. I keep it outside with a cover on it so the length isn't an issue.

I hope this helps.


----------



## fishingmagnet

Wag1551,
The new 16 now has a 40hp. It is true that the 17 is a little more versatile. I would prefer a 17 over a 16 size and performance wise, but i cannot see keeping it at a storage place. Maybe i can put it in my
20Ft garage at an angle. That is something i would need to think about.


----------



## frankcr

I would rig line(s) up to prevent swinging instead of depending on locking the steering wheel to prevent the steering cable from having to absorb shocks. Don't know if it could actually receive shocks, but why take a chance.

Fastening to the back of the motor is problematic, but maybe you could come up with a method. When we had a 150 HP, I would swing it to the extreme turned position and tie it there. That would not work with the tilt bracket we use on the Makos.


----------



## wag1551

fishingmagnet said:


> Wag1551,
> The new 16 now has a 40hp. It is true that the 17 is a little more versatile. I would prefer a 17 over a 16 size and performance wise, but i cannot see keeping it at a storage place. Maybe i can put it in my
> 20Ft garage at an angle. That is something i would need to think about.


I imagine the 16 performs a lot better with a 40 hp. If you decide to go that way please let us know how it does. One thing I liked about the 16 was that we could pull it with a Hyundai Tucson. The 17 is more than it can tow comfortably.


----------



## joebucko

Flyitall
The bracket that came with my Pro17 was just too small for the motor so I upgraded to one with a much larger head that fits the shaft of the engine better. Its called a Swivl-Eze Transom saver. I got mine at Academy. This unit holds the engine securely and won't allow it to swing from the straight ahead position. This isn't the best picture but you get the idea.
http://www.academy.com/shop/browse/_/N-0?Ntt=transom+saver&Ntk=All&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial


----------



## FlyItAll

Joe- I'll get one of those and try it, thanks! I was focused in on making the one they supplied work, but buying a better one will save me messing around with it.

Also, in the picture you posted, I don't see the starboard pieces that you added to your bunks. Any issues with that?


----------



## FlyItAll

Panhandle- There is some discussion of covers on this thread around page 12-14 or so. Based on that, I bought a size 71017NP. I think it fits well. Like you, I store my boat inside my garage. I prefer to trailer without a cover. I only bought mine so I could cover it overnight when I am on a trip staying in a hotel, thinking it might deter theft.


----------



## joebucko

FlyItAll
This picture was taken sometime before I added the bunk slicks. The starboard slicks are doing a wonderful job and I couldn't be happier with them. 
On the Swivl-Eze as I remember I replaced the square aluminum pole with one a little longer. I just bought a piece of square aluminum tube the right diameter from HD/Lowes and cut it to fit what I needed.


----------



## FlyItAll

Joebucko-Glad to hear the starboard bunks are working well. I followed your lead a few months back and installed them on my bunks also, love them! Just ordered the Swivl-eze, decided to try the one with the vibration damping, Academy had the best price. Thanks again!


----------



## panhandlekelly

FlyItAll said:


> Panhandle- There is some discussion of covers on this thread around page 12-14 or so. Based on that, I bought a size 71017NP. I think it fits well. Like you, I store my boat inside my garage. I prefer to trailer without a cover. I only bought mine so I could cover it overnight when I am on a trip staying in a hotel, thinking it might deter theft.


Thanks flyitall, That's mostly the reason I want. If you stop at a store or a motel I would hope it would deter someone from rummaging through the boat.


----------



## frankcr

We have placed motion detecting alarms in the truck or other things we were concerned about people stealing while at motels. A sudden noise could make a thief change his mind and call attention to the site.


----------



## KeithD.

Can someone send me the picture of the livewell mod that has the T fitting screwed right to the pump. I am having trouble locating it. Thought it was in the photobucket link, but I cannot get it to work. Thanks in advance.


----------



## joebucko

*SideImaging Sonar added to my Pro17 skiff*

I finally got my new Humminbird SI sonar installed and tuned up. Side Imaging is a bit more complicated than my original DownImaging sonar so it took some time to get everything set up correctly.

As some of you know I installed a manual Jackplate on my boat in an attempt to maximize its performance. The result was disappointing as the only quantifiable improvement in performance was the ability to raise the engine height moderately from the original factory install. WELL as it turns out the addition of the JackPlate made the installation of the SideImaging Sonar much easier. The 4" setback on the JP allowed me to install the large SI Transducer on the flat part of the transom just slightly starboard of the centerline. It also allowed me to raise the SI transducer so that at planing speed the SI transducer is completely out of the water and safe from impact damage. A secondary 2D transducer is mounted on the outside starboard corner of the transom so I have depth readings at speed.

The images are pretty incredible with SideImaging as I can now see and identify what is on the bottom below and 240ft to each side of the boat.

Time will tell if I can actually catch more fish.


----------



## Jstone

*Fishing Magnet*

Saw your post. I have had the Mako 16 with the 40 for about a year.
Hit a stump a month ago. replaced the lower unit and went with a stainless steel prop (same size as the original aluminum)
Anyway I used to have top speed of 27-28 at 6000 now i get 29-30 at 5800 rpm.
Yes the smaller boat has less room around the helm but it is sure easy to handle with one person on board and since I am retired that is most of the time.
I have the Bimini top and love the protection from the hot Texas sun while fishing.


----------



## Winters97gt

That's the beauty of these boats when something isn't broken or defected from the manufacturer. They are extremely easy to launch, load, and fish with 1 person.


----------



## KeithD.

Joe, 
You may have spoke about this before but can you tell me what you used and how you installed the bunks. That is my biggest complaint about this boat is that it is a pain in the a** to unload. Did you run them the whole length on each bunk or did you space them apart. Thanks in advance.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*tight fit with jack plate*

wow, JB. you were not kidding when you said your jackplate just fit inside the transom tie down hardware. whoever did my transom tie downs at Mako did not make identical measurements off the centerline. i will most likely have to remove one and reposition it.

i made a home depot run this weekend for cinder blocks, chain, connectors etc. to ready my smaller Little Giant ladder to hold steady the engine as you did.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*PermaTrim mod*

another mod to check off. i hope it helps the prop slip/ventilation i've been experiencing.


----------



## Winters97gt

How are you getting prop slip without jacking the motor up? Interested to see numbers with that on a hard/soft bottom. I like Joe's manual jack plate just to get it up a few more inches.


----------



## FlyItAll

That Permatrim plate looks nice Flatscat! Reading thru the FAQs on the Permatrim website, they have a very straightforward discussion about outboard height. They claim most OB manufacturers and riggers consider a "safe" height to be setting the engine AV plate level with the bottom of the hull. They also say the outboard can usually be raised at least one inch, especially if you are using a SS prop. If you trim the 60hp on our 17' skiffs so the AV plate is parallel to the bottom of the hull, you find that in our factory setup the AV plate is exactly level with the hull bottom. Several others on this thread have commented on raising the engine and Joebucko ran some detailed tests with the engine raised on his jackplate. 
So the Permatrim info provides another data point that our engines can safely be raised. One hole is 3/4". I am still gathering baseline data with my new 13"P Vengeance prop before I venture into raising the engine and/or adding a foil or Permatrim. 
This thread continues to be extremely interesting and helpful, I check nearly every day for updates.


----------



## Jonc

*Mako 16*

Fishing magnet..

I believe I'm the only guy on the thread with a 16 and happy to share my thoughts... Just spent a week away on a fishing trip with 3 guys in the boat all week. Fishing with three is a little tight but not to the point where it's cumbersome. Ideally, the boat sets up nice for two fishermen but if you think you'll have more on board the lions share of the time I'd bump up to the 17.

The biggest difference I can see between the 16 &17 is the extra beam width which may not seem like much but does make it easier and safer to walk around the console and you've all heard me whine about the big cooler on the shorter boat. It's seriously dangerous if you plan on fishing off the aft deck as there's just no room for foot placement which is why I purchased the leaning post and retired the cooler to the camp site.

As to the scotty rod holders, I just attached them to the gunwale with the provided screws as the top deck mount seemed like it would be a nightmare with my fly line. Of course you can easily pop them out and stow them away if it's a problem.

I did just purchase a Fishmaster front casting deck which I'll post pictures of after installation. I can see it being a great addition Flyitall for our type of fishing. The trip was a blast, awesome to be out on the water again. First couple of days were slow as the water was still cold but ended up catching many and knocked back several around the campfire each night. Great trip.

Jonc


----------



## Jonc

*Fishingmagnet*

One more response on the 16. I have the 40 h.p. and have absolutely no problem getting up on plane with 2 on board. Actually, I top out at about 31 mph which is plenty fast for me. It's a stable fishing platform with outstanding performance. No hull slap, just a smooth ride even in rougher water.

Jonc


----------



## Jstone

*Jonc*

I too have the 16 with the 40.
my rod holders did not come with ss screws. What length did you use to install them?
Thanks for your Mod updates. Many love what you do to your boat.


----------



## fishingmagnet

John and other,
Thanks for sharing your thoughts and ideas. Looks like mako 16 is what i am planning to get. It is nice that mako price is pretty reasonabe without other amenities, which allow us to add on our gadget and modification as we like. That mean we get to customize it to our to our satisfaction. Since i am planning to fish at night, i would install lots of lights for both decotative and visible to other. Has anyone done this?


----------



## joebucko

Keith D
I covered the entire length of my bunks with the 1/2" Starboard. I drilled and countersank holes for 1 1/2" #10 oval head stainless steel screws. Went to the lake one day, unloaded the boat and had all the Starboard installed in less than 30 minutes. Make sure your countersink holes are deep enough to get the screw heads well below the surface.


----------



## MakoMadness

Well I received my shim in the mail (most appreciated) and got it installed this morning, as you can tell I am far from being a craftsman but I think it might just work. The shim fit perfect and really re-angled the transducer. I will take some pictures of the graph when I get it back in the water this weekend. I think it is still angled a little bit, but hopefully it will be ok.


----------



## Jonc

*Fishmaster Casting Platform*

Great product and equally great customer service. Would highly recommend this company to any of you looking for T-Tops, platforms, etc. Once I received the platform I went back and ordered the leaning rail because its pretty scary standing up there particularly when its out of the water. Ideal for us fly fisherman or any of you that fish skinny water. Hopefully I'll now see them before they see me.

jonc

jonc


----------



## joebucko

Jonc
You have your boat set up great and looking FINE.


----------



## fishingmagnet

I don't think i have read anything on anchor. How do you guys store your anchor on the boat. And does anyone add additional seats to the back area?


----------



## atcfisherman

Holy cow, there are 135 pages to this thread. Am I missing something?


----------



## FlyItAll

FishingMagnet-I bought a Danforth style anchor that fits in the front storage compartment. Since I installed my Minn Kota ipilot trolling motor which has a "virtual anchor" feature, I have not once pulled my anchor out of the compartment! It is literally a touch of a button to anchor if your trolling motor is in the water.


----------



## fishingmagnet

I am wondering how far can you go on a 12 gal of gas with a 60 hp engine?


----------



## Jonc

*Anchor storage*

I'm with Flyitall fishing magnet in that the I pilot anchor works like a dream. Obviously I don't have a front hatch on the 16 so I bought a plastic tub from walmart and bored a bunch of 1" holes in the sides to allow the anchor line to dry out. I keep it stowed under the aft deck and it's snug enough that I don't need to strap it down.

There's no reason why you can't mount seating on the rear deck... Most all of us have some type of pedestal seat on the bow deck and I assume they're the same thickness? Look at the quick release swivel seat brackets for the spider seats if you don't want a pedestal. You should be able to mount it directly to the deck and your seats would still be removable when trailering.

Jonc


----------



## Winters97gt

fishingmagnet said:


> I am wondering how far can you go on a 12 gal of gas with a 60 hp engine?


Far for 17 ft boat. 85-90 miles. I hit 42 and 44 miles roundtrip to my 2 favorite fishing spots in the lower Laguna Madre and have about a gallon left. That's cruising at 29-31mph. I've got 100-125 hours in the last 9 months on my 60, and besides the lack of torque and holeshot, it's a fantastic little motor.


----------



## frankcr

Spent last Friday in a friends J-16 Carolina Skiff and encountered normal river chop. Fell in love with the Mako Skiff all over again, as it was two days before I did not feel beat up.

He is running a 30 HP 2 cycle and we use the Merc 4 cycle 30 HP. He has maybe 2 MPH on my rig and better acceleration with the narrower hull, but that flat bottom is a rough, wet ride and not nearly as stable. 

Someone thinking about purchasing a skiff may find the comparison helpful.


----------



## panhandlekelly

Jonc said:


> I'm with Flyitall fishing magnet in that the I pilot anchor works like a dream. Obviously I don't have a front hatch on the 16 so I bought a plastic tub from walmart and bored a bunch of 1" holes in the sides to allow the anchor line to dry out. I keep it stowed under the aft deck and it's snug enough that I don't need to strap it down.
> 
> There's no reason why you can't mount seating on the rear deck... Most all of us have some type of pedestal seat on the bow deck and I assume they're the same thickness? Look at the quick release swivel seat brackets for the spider seats if you don't want a pedestal. You should be able to mount it directly to the deck and your seats would still be removable when trailering.
> 
> Jonc


I added a pedestal to my rear deck. It is built the same as the front.


----------



## KeithD.

Can someone out there post the pictures of the livewell mod where the T fitting was screwed to the pump? Can seem to find them Thanks in advance.


----------



## KeithD.

Has anyone mounted rod holders to the inside of the side of the boat? Looking to try to add some more rod storage. I was wondering how much space is between the deck and hull. Thanks in advance.


----------



## MakoMadness

*Jawja Boy*

Hey JoeBuc
Was wondering how much better the picture on your graph got after mounting the shim under your transducer bracket? Took the boat out last weekend after the remod and although it did help a little it's still not great. I know you said to slide the shim completely under the bracket, both sides of it, do you think that might be the problem now? Also I was wondering if I might need to relocate the transducer all together, maybe get farther away from the motor. Here is a picture of my graph post shim. You can really see the blue vertical lines at a bout 10 miles per hour. I have tried all different kids of adjustments in the settings area and this is about the best I can get it.


----------



## prod1944

*Livewell mod*

KeithD,
Look at page 114, 116, and 117 for livewell mod.


----------



## KeithD.

Thanks but those are not the pics I am looking for. There was a gentleman on here that actually screwed the T right to the pump. I wanted to show my local BPS how he did it.


----------



## prod1944

*Livewell fix*

Look at page 121


----------



## KeithD.

Prod1944
Thats them Thanks I couldnt find it to save my life.


----------



## Jonc

*Pedestal seat*

Would one of you fine gentlemen with rear deck pedestal seats mind posting a pic please? I'm wondering where you placed it with the light socket in the middle of the deck. Not sure if I have enough space on the 16 and a bit concerned about mounting it port or starboard of the center line.

Thnx.

Jonc


----------



## panhandlekelly

Jonc said:


> Would one of you fine gentlemen with rear deck pedestal seats mind posting a pic please? I'm wondering where you placed it with the light socket in the middle of the deck. Not sure if I have enough space on the 16 and a bit concerned about mounting it port or starboard of the center line.
> 
> Thnx.
> 
> Jonc


Here you go. I have not encountered any problems with this set up on my 17.


----------



## Jonc

*Pedestal*

Thanks a bunch panhandlekelly... I was wondering if that would be too much stress that close to the edge but apparently not. Just another example of how great this thread is.

Much appreciated...

Jonc


----------



## KeithD.

Jonc
I did the same thing as panhandle but I used a square flat plate. I do not use the seat all the time and this way I did not have to worry about someone tripping over it. I also installed a 1/4 inch thick aluminum plate that measure 8 by 22 and attached with the same screws that hold the plate and 5200. I was not sure if if I would need it but I figured it was cheap insurance.


----------



## Jonc

Agreed.. I have some .50" starboard so I think I'll attach a piece under the deck for added support. Good idea.

Jonc


----------



## frankcr

A backup plate of any material would help some, but starboard is a weak material. The backing should have good tensile strength, so plywood or aluminum would be better if you can source a piece.

The lower fiber would be stretched if the deck is subject to bending.


----------



## KeithD.

We have a surplus or scrap metal company that sells all types of metal. That is where I found the piece of aluminum. I am sure you guys out there probably have the same thing.


----------



## MakoMadness

*Jawja Boy*

Hey Gentlemen
I thought I would post some pics and a video today of my day out on the water, I fished from 9am to about 12:30pm. Caught three, not great but all keepers. The video is really my first crack at it and is probably terrible but thought I would give it a try. I had to use my iphone so bare with me.


----------



## MakoMadness

*Jawja Boy*

So I gave up on the video, it was even worse than I thought. But I did want to post this one. You know how we roll down here in God's country boy's!!!!
GATA DAWGS! SICKEM EM


----------



## FlyItAll

MakoMadness- Nice to see the livewell operating properly and getting put to good use! The Mako looks as good on the road as it does on the water!


----------



## MakoMadness

*Jawja Boy*



FlyItAll said:


> MakoMadness- Nice to see the livewell operating properly and getting put to good use! The Mako looks as good on the road as it does on the water!


 Thanks Fly,
I forgot to turn the spicket off before I took off and I could see the fish noses poking out between the seat. The water was full to the brim, after opening the plug in the livewell it worked great. I had a great day throwing the spinner bait this morning the bass were crushing it.


----------



## scrat

*Pulled the trigger*

Just bought a brand new 2012 model 16cc. Thought after reading all 139 pages on this forum. this skiff will do the trick for all my inshore fishing. Putting on the GPS sounder and the bimini top sunday. Question though. I'd like to mount horixzontal rod holders to the inside of the gunwales. How thick is the sides of the boat? Is it double walled (im sure). Heading down to St Marys/Jacksonville next Saturday to try for trout, reds, flounder.


----------



## KeithD.

Scrat

I was told there is about 5/8 inch between the liner and the hull. One option I was told about were the Sea Sucker brand of rod holders.


----------



## joebucko

Scrat
There is plenty of space between the inside and outside of the of gunnel to mount rod holders. When Jonc mounted his new leaning post to the floor he reported that the distance between the deck floor and hull was approximately 5/8" which is pretty close.
The Sea Suckers work great but are pricey. I went with a less expensive option made by BoatBuckle which I found at Academy. They mount with short stainless steel screws and have worked out well.


----------



## squirrellman

That looks really nice Joebocko. I may have to add one to mine. 

One question I do have for the folks on this thread is if anyone uses a push pole to move around shallows. I am thinking of going this route as a cheaper alternative to a trolling motor but I figured I would ask everyone's opinion first. Do y'all think the boat would pole well? How do you think maneuverability would be etc..

BTW I dont have a poling platform on mine.


----------



## joebucko

squirrellman,
I have not tried to pole my Proskiff but I suspect it would not be easy to do. That said it would not cost you much to try it and let us all know how it works. Give it a shot.


----------



## scrat

joebucko said:


> Scrat
> There is plenty of space between the inside and outside of the of gunnel to mount rod holders. When Jonc mounted his new leaning post to the floor he reported that the distance between the deck floor and hull was approximately 5/8" which is pretty close.
> The Sea Suckers work great but are pricey. I went with a less expensive option made by BoatBuckle which I found at Academy. They mount with short stainless steel screws and have worked out well.


thanks Joe.. buying a set this weekend.


----------



## squirrellman

joebucko said:


> squirrellman,
> I have not tried to pole my Proskiff but I suspect it would not be easy to do. That said it would not cost you much to try it and let us all know how it works. Give it a shot.


I imagine you're right Joe. Seeing as how our boats arent really as small and narrow as a regular poling skiff it may be hard. But I might just fashion together a pole on the cheap and try it out. Thanks.


----------



## fishingmagnet

Squirrelman, i have always thought about the push pole. Let us know how it performs. Has anyone install wash down pump to the boat. It could come in handy when cleaning up the mess after all of that bloody fish.


----------



## Jonc

*Push pole*

I did buy a pole and tried it out last year and quickly learned the mechanics involved were not in my fishing arsenal. It's a lot like steering my drift boat in that your kinda working the opposite direction like steering a trailer backwards. You tube... Gotta love that site... Learned the basics of polling and it worked great on the 16 but obviously I have nothing to compare it to. The boat moves effortlesly in calm water but I doubt I'd try out for the Olympics.. Don't laugh. They have curling for gods sakes!

Jonc


----------



## frankcr

Used our push pole on the 17 today to get out of some oysters. Rather frustrating.


----------



## scrat

*depth finder*

hey all.. got mu bimini top and guide poles on my mako s16cc. Trying to install sounder now. Any advice on running the wire from the helm to the stern? I see where it goes but how do you feed it thru?


----------



## frankcr

Having finally had a chance to put some hours on the Mako, we fell in love with it even more than before. We are running a 30 on a hull rated for 60 HP and it is only about 8 MPH slower than the max HP. Acceleration is slow but steady and power trim comes in handy. 

It eats river chop for breakfast and is the most stable small boat we have dealt with. We have been running it in creeks so narrow that there is barely enough room for the beam. The only thing we miss is oars for maneuvering while throwing a net. The push pole helps but is awkward compared to oars.

We fitted a bow mount electric motor on the stern in order to keep the bow clear which does okay, but is not as nice as a bow mounted motor.

I suspect that some of the nay sayers try to use this hull in waters it is not designed for. It is not designed for large waves and is out of its element offshore where a self bailing vee hull would be preferable. For lakes, large rivers, and small waters where we fish it is perfect. The two of us carry everything but a kitchen sink in it and still have room to spare.

We had offshore boats in the past which were all but useless in the smaller waters we frequent. They were expensive to operate, very difficult to maneuver, and I spent more time just keeping the boats in good order than fishing. Trim tabs and other expensive toys are not required to manage the boat. Instead of $25 +/- launch fees, we just hit a ramp and are away for free.

I get a little impatient with all the talk of it doesn't have such and such accessory. It is extremely adaptable and can be fitted out to an owners needs inexpensively. It is not a cheap item as some allude to but a purpose designed fishing craft that does not break the bank.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

frankcr said:


> Having finally had a chance to put some hours on the Mako, we fell in love with it even more than before. We are running a 30 on a hull rated for 60 HP and it is only about 8 MPH slower than the max HP. Acceleration is slow but steady and power trim comes in handy.
> 
> It eats river chop for breakfast and is the most stable small boat we have dealt with. We have been running it in creeks so narrow that there is barely enough room for the beam. The only thing we miss is oars for maneuvering while throwing a net. The push pole helps but is awkward compared to oars.
> 
> We fitted a bow mount electric motor on the stern in order to keep the bow clear which does okay, but is not as nice as a bow mounted motor.
> 
> I suspect that some of the nay sayers try to use this hull in waters it is not designed for. It is not designed for large waves and is out of its element offshore where a self bailing vee hull would be preferable. For lakes, large rivers, and small waters where we fish it is perfect. The two of us carry everything but a kitchen sink in it and still have room to spare.
> 
> We had offshore boats in the past which were all but useless in the smaller waters we frequent. They were expensive to operate, very difficult to maneuver, and I spent more time just keeping the boats in good order than fishing. Trim tabs and other expensive toys are not required to manage the boat. Instead of $25 +/- launch fees, we just hit a ramp and are away for free.
> 
> I get a little impatient with all the talk of it doesn't have such and such accessory. It is extremely adaptable and can be fitted out to an owners needs inexpensively. It is not a cheap item as some allude to but a purpose designed fishing craft that does not break the bank.


Well said, frankcr.


----------



## frankcr

Thank you, FlatsCatFl. 

Two years ago in the spring I started getting the 21 ft rig ready for the season, trailer brakes (again), bilge pump problems, electric system gremlins, stuck tach, complete wash and wax, etc. I came back in the house and announced to my wife that I had had enough of spending more time each year getting it in tip top shape before heading offshore. Each trip used 40 + gal of fuel, launch fees, bait and ice and other expenses.

We gave the rig to a friend and purchased the Tiller Skiff. If we want to go offshore, it is less expensive to hire a boat. We also had a 14 ft boat for the rivers, as that deep vee was nothing but a problem in tight waters. The grandson is getting that rig which was a little small for the larger rivers we want to fish. He is into fresh water bass and the rig is just right for him.

Giving up a little maneuverability with the skiff provided a boat which was as easy to launch as the smaller boat with much better safety in the large rivers. It is adaptable enough for flounder gigging, trolling for trout, casting for shrimp, and providing a good ride when the wind picks up. It actually uses about the same fuel as the 14 footer and only requires minimum maintenance like the smaller boat needed. The 6 gal tank is much friendlier to the wallet than the 65 gal in the larger boat also.

We fitted a depth finder, vertical trolling rod holders, an electric trolling motor, running lights, nice swivel seats, a bimini top, and only miss the oars as stated before.

We went through the bigger and faster years and now just want to take relaxed fishing trips. We put gobs of fish in the box over the years, but find we are just as satisfied with smaller, fewer fish and relaxed days. The Mako provides that at a reasonable cost which is much better for a retirement toy. We can use it several times a week for less expense than a monthly trip or two with the larger rig.

I see many posts complaining that it does not run as shallow or fast as a true flats boat and does not like large waves like a deep vee. If someone wants that sort of thing, there is a large selection available for a little more money. Buy it for the general purpose it was designed for and enjoy the simplicity. It is a nice design for what it is and anyone with experience will know that no craft is fit for all purposes.


----------



## panhandlekelly

frankcr said:


> Thank you, FlatsCatFl.
> 
> Two years ago in the spring I started getting the 21 ft rig ready for the season, trailer brakes (again), bilge pump problems, electric system gremlins, stuck tach, complete wash and wax, etc. I came back in the house and announced to my wife that I had had enough of spending more time each year getting it in tip top shape before heading offshore. Each trip used 40 + gal of fuel, launch fees, bait and ice and other expenses.
> 
> We gave the rig to a friend and purchased the Tiller Skiff. If we want to go offshore, it is less expensive to hire a boat. We also had a 14 ft boat for the rivers, as that deep vee was nothing but a problem in tight waters. The grandson is getting that rig which was a little small for the larger rivers we want to fish. He is into fresh water bass and the rig is just right for him.
> 
> Giving up a little maneuverability with the skiff provided a boat which was as easy to launch as the smaller boat with much better safety in the large rivers. It is adaptable enough for flounder gigging, trolling for trout, casting for shrimp, and providing a good ride when the wind picks up. It actually uses about the same fuel as the 14 footer and only requires minimum maintenance like the smaller boat needed. The 6 gal tank is much friendlier to the wallet than the 65 gal in the larger boat also.
> 
> We fitted a depth finder, vertical trolling rod holders, an electric trolling motor, running lights, nice swivel seats, a bimini top, and only miss the oars as stated before.
> 
> We went through the bigger and faster years and now just want to take relaxed fishing trips. We put gobs of fish in the box over the years, but find we are just as satisfied with smaller, fewer fish and relaxed days. The Mako provides that at a reasonable cost which is much better for a retirement toy. We can use it several times a week for less expense than a monthly trip or two with the larger rig.
> 
> I see many posts complaining that it does not run as shallow or fast as a true flats boat and does not like large waves like a deep vee. If someone wants that sort of thing, there is a large selection available for a little more money. Buy it for the general purpose it was designed for and enjoy the simplicity. It is a nice design for what it is and anyone with experience will know that no craft is fit for all purposes.


Well said frankcr. I love my 17. It is exactly what I was looking for. Comfortable, stable, and economical to operate. I have everything on this boat that I've had on larger and fancier boats.
Just got back from a trip to the Big 'O', but did not take my boat. I wish I could have. Worked out good thought, I caught several keepers, including a bass just shy of 8#.


----------



## fishingmagnet

I am wondering, by going to the shallow water, how do you prevent the boat from scraping the sea floor? I guess you can go as slow as you can, but sooner or later, the boat would hit the bottom. By accepting this fact, does it degrade the boat bottom exterior over time? If it does, how do patch up the scratch marks to extend the life of the boat?


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## Winters97gt

fishingmagnet said:


> I am wondering, by going to the shallow water, how do you prevent the boat from scraping the sea floor? I guess you can go as slow as you can, but sooner or later, the boat would hit the bottom. By accepting this fact, does it degrade the boat bottom exterior over time? If it does, how do patch up the scratch marks to extend the life of the boat?


You need to really understand how these boats operate. There is no tunnel, or even a pocket tunnel to introduce water to the lower unit and get the boat up shallow. I've got 125 hours on mine in 9 months, I've pushed this boat week after week in the roughest, and also shallowest conditions the boat can go. I've entertained the idea of a manual jackplate. That should help a bit, as well as raising the motor in the bolts to the transom. The skeg will drag first on this boat.

The last 2 weeks, I pushed the boat absolutely as skinny as it can go. It is right at 8 inches with myself, a fuel load with extra gear, etc. And yes, I measured and purposely stuck the boat in a soft area to see exactly what the measurements were, even though I had a good idea.

If on plane, give yourself 10-12 inches to run in with more than 1 person.

Trout bite has been on. I've had to push this boat the last 3 weeks with extra gas tanks to get the reds.


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## joebucko

Beautiful catch Winters97gt.


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## frankcr

Beautiful fish, Winters. We are still waiting for the fish to turn on over here, but bait is slowly improving. Thanks for making a determination of what the true draft of the hull is also.

To answer the question about running aground, if you need something with less draft, there are boats designed for that. You can definitely do damage to a hull by running too shallow, and the oysters around here can eat up the hull pretty bad if you get careless. A minor amount of damage comes with the territory if you are not careful and can require patching.

This hull runs more shallow than a vee but not as shallow as a true flat bottom. It is a good compromise in that it does not beat your teeth out in a chop however. A couple of weeks back, I went out with a friend in his flat bottom Carolina Skiff and it took two days to get over the beating.

All boats are a compromise, so you need to balance each design with what you plan to use the boat for. They have never designed a hull to go in inches of water and then ride comfortably in 3 ft seas. Mako did a good job with this design, as it goes fairly shallow without slamming into chop too much. It hits our sweet spot very well.


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## Winters97gt

^2 great posters above.

I'd like to add that this boat can run in 8 inches on plane, with a lighter load, but don't expect to run across a long flat that can get skinny. This boat doesn't have the power or tunnel to get you back up if off plane.

If you find yourself in shallow water, add full power and trim the motor up very high if you're in a spot where you don't think you can push out of by getting out. If you find yourself in shallow water along a deeper water line, get out and push the boat if you're not fighting the wind. The beam in this boat doesn't displace enough water, so just removing a 200 pound passenger will take this boat from being stuck, to floating away.

Also, don't run any boat in an oyster bed, or rough bottom. I've never done that, simply because I'm very familiar with where I fish. Doesn't mean I haven't stuck this boat, because I have, but I know what bottom is there. I'd post my lower Laguna Madre drifts, but don't want any more potlicking.

I know where the oysters/hard bottoms are in the area I fish. Just remember, you don't have a 2 stroke or a big V6 on the back to blast out. Know where you're running, and if you have water in the hull like my boat, take the pounding rather than sticking the boat.

After a load of Sheapshead and trout in the boat already, my bite went off on a drift last week. I looked up, and 2 dolphins were tossing a 22-25 inch trout like a beach ball in 2 feet of water. I pulled my drift sock in after 5-10 minutes of watching them feed, and cruised around them. (No, I wasn't trying to run over them, but you can see how shallow it was by the mud I'm kicking up at the end of the video)


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## DCAVA

^^^Cool video Winters, and good solid fish, I hope to take the day off tomorrow and hit the Lagoon!!


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## fishingmagnet

Nice fish winter. 

I have a question for all. When it is time to clean the boat, I am wondering how thorough do you guys clean yours after very trip. Do you like clean the deck and the floor only, how about under the deck front and rear? If we are doing that, then I assume we must remove everything under the decks, and that includes battery, gas tank etc. If we don't clean under the deck, then water sprays or cleaning solution may splash onto the battery terminal or sneak under the gas tank. True?


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## FlatsCatFL

Winters97gt said:


> You need to really understand how these boats operate. There is no tunnel, or even a pocket tunnel to introduce water to the lower unit and get the boat up shallow. I've got 125 hours on mine in 9 months, I've pushed this boat week after week in the roughest, and also shallowest conditions the boat can go. I've entertained the idea of a manual jackplate. That should help a bit, as well as raising the motor in the bolts to the transom. The skeg will drag first on this boat.
> 
> The last 2 weeks, I pushed the boat absolutely as skinny as it can go. It is right at 8 inches with myself, a fuel load with extra gear, etc. And yes, I measured and purposely stuck the boat in a soft area to see exactly what the measurements were, even though I had a good idea.
> 
> If on plane, give yourself 10-12 inches to run in with more than 1 person.
> 
> Trout bite has been on. I've had to push this boat the last 3 weeks with extra gas tanks to get the reds.


Great posts and fish, winter97gt. Btw, I suck at catching fish compared to you, lol.


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## Winters97gt

Thanks guys for the compliments.

Mako, or tracker should really take more time on build quality(wiring, etc) and directly address the water in the hulls. I'm not the only one, as my private messages show with guys not wanting to post publicly.

The hull design is great. If I were to make this boat, I would add about 8 inches of width in the beam, make it an 18 foot boat and offer it with a 90-115hp rating. Also, I know it's a skiff, but a little more dry storage standard. I'd also LOVE to see a baby tunnel on this boat. I think they would have a killer boat with that setup.

As mentioned, you're not going to find a better riding hull that is this small besides a V. I will argue that our 21ft Explorer with a Tunnel V will run shallower than this boat, because I've done it. But it drafts 11 inches so stopping isn't a good idea in shallow water. It gets up just as shallow, but a turn getting water in the tunnel and the V6 out back helps.

This is the boat at 6200rpms in 6 inches of chop.


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## O2BFSHN

Winters that is some good info that you have on the draft and running depth of the boat. So far I have found those numbers to be about what I have experienced. Do you have any numbers on the holeshot of the boat? I'm still trying to figure out how best to get up out of the hole and on plane. Only have about 10 hours on the boat so still learning all the nuances.


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## charliel2

*Help with getting up on plane.*

This has been great for helping me get on plane faster and at lower speeds. Reduces porpoising, provides a better ride and allows you to plane in shallower water as well. It took about 1-2mph off the top end...I rarely ever run WOT so it was well worth it for me. I recommend some type of stabilizer.

http://www.basspro.com/StingRay-StarFire-Hydrofoil-Stabilizers/product/12091805082613/


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## Winters97gt

O2BFSHN said:


> Winters that is some good info that you have on the draft and running depth of the boat. So far I have found those numbers to be about what I have experienced. Do you have any numbers on the holeshot of the boat? I'm still trying to figure out how best to get up out of the hole and on plane. Only have about 10 hours on the boat so still learning all the nuances.


Thanks!

This boat is so temperamental on weight and where it's displaced during shallow water running, and especially holeshot. What I've found in skinny water is to trim the motor up and get the boat moving to about 3-4 MPH. Go full throttle as you trim the motor back down at the same time. Once you are kicking up mud and are starting to get on plane, trim back up again to push the bow back down and raise the skeg. It's a quick trim down, trim back up listening to the motor and seeing what that boat is doing. I'm not sure if that's the best description of how exactly I do it, but it works for me in 12-15 inches of water. My boat takes on so much water in the hull, that I alter my driving from the first day I dunk the boat, to the 2nd-3rd day.

Joe B is probably the most technical savy guy in here on this with his manual jackplate just raising the motor up a couple inches. I didn't graduate with an engineering degree, but I don't see a shallow blaster adding much benefit to this boat for me. We are limited due to hull having no tunnel and no factory jackplate. I also run hard drifts, where all I do is drift out from a certain point, swing the boat back around my next drift at 25-30 MPH right up to 10 inches on a spoil, raise the motor and drift back out like mowing a yard.

Going to fish 4-5 days in SPI the last week of May. If anybody wants to go catch some fish and interested in my boat or a new one, just PM me.


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## O2BFSHN

Thanks for the info on getting on plane. That is one of the ways I was trying last weekend. It seemed to work the best for me. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Winters97gt

Got a bent rod for a 20 minute fight on light tackle?

My brother and myself came up with a way to catch Jacks and Spanish Mackrel in the LLM about every 5 minutes. Not big fish, like in Florida or at the Jetties in the Texas area, but 6-15lb jacks are fun fish! Also load the boad up with 12-18 inch Mangrove snapper with our method in an our, but not fun in the fight but delicious at dinner. Most of the big fish I caught solo, but do have the pics of them on a ruler at 25". Great fighting fish on inshore gear!


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## frankcr

Went to a lake off the river today, and that nice gel coated deck gave me fits. It would be nice if it were a non glare color rather than white. We used deck wash on it which maybe worked too well for a very bright sunny day.

Have any of you painted, coated, or cut the glare from the deck by some means? My wife said it was much more comfortable to the eyes when it was a bit dirty, but I would rather keep it clean.

Maybe a grey splatter paint would do the job, but I wanted to ask if anyone else has had problems with glare.


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## scrat

finally got to do some work with my new 16ft cc skiff. running a 40 merc. We downsized from a 22 ft deep v walk around made for fishing offshore to near shore. We fished 3 people and full load of gear. Absolutley no problem getting on plane (but i did keep two people in front). had no watering boat issues or baitwell issues as previoulsly reported. boat sips gas. Fished a lot of oyster beds and tidal creeks. places i can;t get with my Trophy. It excelled here. Things i must get used to: having such a small gas tank makes me nervous, the ride was rough in chop compared to what i was used to but for a small boat it handled absolutley great We actually hit some 3 foot swells from a ferrys wake, it handled awesome. The problem was me going from driving semi to driving a volkswagon. lol. It was VERY easy to load unload and for what its designed for I can;t brag enuff about it. I will probably keep my large boat alos though for fishing offshore / rough water. by the way.. fishing was awful due to large rainstoms that blew though messing up the water. :-( it fishes two great, three comfortable...


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## frankcr

We just got in and cleaned a mess of bream.

When we pulled the trailer down the ramp, someone wanted to see the boat. He was another case of someone with a large boat, Bennets and all the trimmings who wants to sell it and is very interested in the Mako. He had the same reasons we did in that gas, hoist, maintenance, etc took too much time and money. 

He wants something easy to launch for the salt water rivers in the area which handles river chop well. My wife offered to allow him to take it for a spin, but he declined. He said he had seen enough and heard her praises which was enough for him. Looks like another Skiff is coming to town. 

He saw the boat while he was crossing the bridge adjacent to the ramp and came down with a load of questions. Should have told him about this site but did not think about it in time.


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## redfish007

Picking up my new skiff Saturday. Pro 17 with jackplate and power pole!! Thanks a lot for sharing your stories it has helped me decide on grabbing one of these. The pros seem to seriously out weigh the con's. Look forward to hearing more from yall on here its invaluable to get the reel scoop on these first hand. Laguna madre look out!!


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## Winters97gt

redfish007 said:


> Picking up my new skiff Saturday. Pro 17 with jackplate and power pole!! Thanks a lot for sharing your stories it has helped me decide on grabbing one of these. The pros seem to seriously out weigh the con's. Look forward to hearing more from yall on here its invaluable to get the reel scoop on these first hand. Laguna madre look out!!


Congrats on the purchase!

What area do you fish? I'm not sure I'd want a power pole, actually positive I wouldn't want that weight back there with the battery and 6 gallon tank there if you fish the flats or shallow water.


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## redfish007

Thanks. I'm pretty excited to get the boat a little dirty. I fish pretty much spid down to bird island. Been wanting to venture further south lately but haven't made it to far past bird island. Power poles for skiffs aren't much heavier than a loaded tackle bag. The mount is the heaviest part and its not heavy at all. Hope a fuzz extra weight doesn't throw that boat off too much. Was kinda lookin forward to getting away from chips in the gel dropping the anchor and all that rope. Guess I'll find out soon enough. Hopefully there is value to a used power pole if it doesn't work out. As long as the fish stay hungry I'll be happy. Looks like you found some hungry fish yourself!!!!


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## yeocokent

I am picking up our 17 skiff next week. Many thanks to all the posts on this thread. I am buying it mainly for my boys to fish our tributary on the Chesapeake. We have a 1974 23 John Allmand for striper fishing and a refurbished 1988 Aquasport 17. This will be our first true skinny water boat and our first new boat. We are hoping to spend a lot of time on it this summer.


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## Winters97gt

Just a suggestion, keep the load light if you want to go shallow in this boat. It's not a skinny water boat.


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## yeocokent

Gotcha, but it is a skinny water boat for this area. Just differing views of skinny water via differing regions. We aren't running vast flats. It should be a great multi purpose boat for the tributaries and running out a bit farther on calm days in the bay. Plus the boys can use it to set and pull our crab pots a bit easier than the aquasport.


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## Jonc

*Fishmaster casting platform review*

Happy Memorial Day to all and many thanks to those of you who served... Had the chance this weekend to finally test drive the Fishmaster casting platform and all I can say is wow!

It's amazing what just 17" in extra height does to improve your vision and the ability to cut through the water at that angle. It takes away a ton of glare and allows you to have a much better look at both fish and structure. The Fishmaster is rock solid and I felt very comfortable standing up there with the hand rail to lean against or hang on to in boat wakes. The entire platform can be removed in about 30 seconds and is relatively lite considering how stout it's built. Fished top water with a 3&8 weight rods and you could actually see the bass and blue gills rise up to strike the fly. Site fishing at its best, great product and well worth the money.

Jonc


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## joebucko

Nice platform Jonc. Do you think you will ever get comfortable enough to do away with the handrail or is that essential?


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## Jonc

*Platform*

You're up there pretty high JoeB and I can't imagine it safe without something to grab if need be. The grab rail I bought is not the one they recommend for the platform as I just cheaped out a bit. They have a t-bar unit that would be way safer.


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## scrat

Question about towing vehicle for the 16cc. I am thinking of leaving my 16cc at my daughters to use but not sure her vehicle will tow this little skiff. Her vehicle only has a 1000 lb weight towing capacity. ideas? opinions?


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## Jonc

*16 towing*

Hey Scrat..

She's barely at half of what she needs. The hull weigh alone is close to 900 lbs. plus the motor, trailer and everything else. I would figure no less than 2,000 lb. towing capacity. I pull my 16 with a half ton avalanche and it pulls just fine.

jonc


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## scrat

Jonc said:


> Hey Scrat..
> 
> She's barely at half of what she needs. The hull weigh alone is close to 900 lbs. plus the motor, trailer and everything else. I would figure no less than 2,000 lb. towing capacity. I pull my 16 with a half ton avalanche and it pulls just fine.
> 
> jonc


thanks..


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## Winters97gt

Had a good day on the water in SPI. Put my buddy who doesn't get to fish much on the biggest trout he's caught so far. 23.5 inches.


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## OldManOwen

That's a nice trout! Congrats to your buddy.

I got my Bimini from Amazon today, $89.99! Not to much fun installing by myself, but it's on and it looks great. I'll put up pictures and details in a bit.


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## redfish007

Please do!!.The boat is fantastic. Love to know which one you got!! Couldn't ask for a better skiff!!!!


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## sea hunt 202

always great to be on the water, go man go


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## yeocokent

LitUp said:


> Finally got it back from proline, looks good runs good


That looks great Litup. Thanks for posting. How do you like running the boat with the top so far?


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## yeocokent

We picked our 17 skiff up today. How in the heck did you guys run your transducer cable to the center console? Sorry if it was covered already on this thread but I can't find it. My daughter and I tried to run a wire up through the tunnel that all the cables and electric wires run through. My thought was to get that wire through and then attach the transducer cable to it and pull it through. We have not had any luck running the feeder wire from the stern to the center console. Maybe we just need to keep trying. It is too bad there isn't a access hatch. Thanks in advance for any advice.


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## panhandlekelly

yeocokent said:


> We picked our 17 skiff up today. How in the heck did you guys run your transducer cable to the center console? Sorry if it was covered already on this thread but I can't find it. My daughter and I tried to run a wire up through the tunnel that all the cables and electric wires run through. My thought was to get that wire through and then attach the transducer cable to it and pull it through. We have not had any luck running the feeder wire from the stern to the center console. Maybe we just need to keep trying. It is too bad there isn't a access hatch. Thanks in advance for any advice.


I used an electrical "fish tape". It was a bear but it will work. Be sure to pull a couple of extra wires at this time for future use.


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## Jonc

The fish tape wants to hang up at the rubber boot or at least that was my problem. If you release the screws on the boot the fish tape pops right up. Make sure you seal it again when you replace the screws. Jonc


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## panhandlekelly

Jonc said:


> The fish tape wants to hang up at the rubber boot or at least that was my problem. If you release the screws on the boot the fish tape pops right up. Make sure you seal it again when you replace the screws. Jonc


I did the same, plus wrapped the end with plenty of electrical tape. I pulled some small rope throught with the fish tape to use to pull the transducer cable. Didn't want to take a chance on damaging the cable. I also pulled a negative and positive wire for the fish finder for a direct connection to the battery to reduce possible noise and installed an inline fuse for that circuit. The use of wire lube helped reduce friction while pulling the wire.


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## LitUp

yeocokent said:


> That looks great Litup. Thanks for posting. How do you like running the boat with the top so far?


I love it the only problem is if the wind is blowing 15-20mph you get blown around pretty good, but having shade is great, top end speed dropped by a couple mph but im glad i have it for sure(so is the wife)


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## yeocokent

LitUp said:


> I love it the only problem is if the wind is blowing 15-20mph you get blown around pretty good, but having shade is great, top end speed dropped by a couple mph but im glad i have it for sure(so is the wife)


It does look really good plus the rod holders are much needed on the boat.


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## yeocokent

Thanks for the help guys. I used the tape and took off the boot under the cc. I wrapped the ducer plug on it with black electrical tape and coated with dish detergent for lube. Was pretty easy actually. Thanks for the help. Now I am getting no power at the power switch. Not sure if I did something when I wired the ff. the light is not coming on, on the power switch. After trying to diagnose I noticed the breaker on the battery was blown so reset it. However still can't get the switch to power on. I am wondering if I have a bad switch or if I messed something up when getting my fish finder set up. I wish I would have wired it direct to the battery. I did get the light on the power switch to come on but for a few times but none of the accessories worked.


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## yeocokent

After jiggling the yellow reset switch a bit more I have power at the power switch but it isn't sending power to the accessories. Unless anyone has any suggestions I will probably take her back in to have it looked at.


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## Winters97gt

LitUp said:


> I love it the only problem is if the wind is blowing 15-20mph you get blown around pretty good, but having shade is great, top end speed dropped by a couple mph but im glad i have it for sure(so is the wife)


In 20mph wind, expect to get pounded in any boat. 30, and you're just wet and that 15-20 mile ride you just did with the wind becomes hell against it. That's just boats, especially cheap, small boats like we have.


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## yeocokent

I got my electrical issues corrected. I think I damaged the power switch when installing the fish finder and tripped the circuit breaker at the battery. After testing the wires, I switched the power-out wire at the power terminal and the circuit breaker is not real good. I had to hit it with a screw driver to get it reset so will probably replace it. Getting ready to put the girl in the water for the first time if the rain clears up a bit.:cheers:


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## panhandlekelly

yeocokent said:


> I got my electrical issues corrected. I think I damaged the power switch when installing the fish finder and tripped the circuit breaker at the battery. After testing the wires, I switched the power-out wire at the power terminal and the circuit breaker is not real good. I had to hit it with a screw driver to get it reset so will probably replace it. Getting ready to put the girl in the water for the first time if the rain clears up a bit.:cheers:


Enjoy!!! I think you will love this boat.


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## yeocokent

Thanks. Yes, we put in in the water yesterday evening and took it out for a sunset cruise. We spent an hour or so on her so never got 0ver 3500 rpm. It is really going to be a fun boat. I left her in the water so will take her out fishing later today. We marked a lot of fish last night and also went past some fish hitting the surface.


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## panhandlekelly

I took my visiting granddaugther, her 2 teenage sisters that live here, and her fiance for a boat ride today. We went across Pensacola bay to Pensacola Beach and I showed them the coast line of Pensacola NAS from the water. The more I use this boat the more I enjoy it. There was a good chop in the bay and could not have been more satisfied with the ride. With 5 people on board, I could still run 31 mph, I was impressed. I cruised about 24 mph. Have not checked the fuel I burned, but I imagine I still have about 1/2 tank or more.


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## latex

I'm really like reading about this skiff. I will be buying a boat next year. I was looking at the xpress c.c. 18 ft. I'm now lookin really hard at the mako skiff!!

Sent from my VS876 using Tapatalk


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## yeocokent

Just did the second hour break in with 2 of my kids. In was a little breezy so there was a slight chop. It got dark so I tied her up at the dock. We are going to get a storm tonight. I am going to need to put an automatic bilge pump in the back because she is going to be in the water more often than not.


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## Jonc

*Slip and Fall*

Congrats on the new purchase yeocokent. You'll love these little boats. Stepped off the front deck the other day in the rain and the next think I see is all blue sky and my feet. Wondering if any of you have addressed that spot on the tunnel with no non skid? Not sure how much of it is exposed on the 17's but I have about a foot exposed on the 16. Fortunately my back landed on the front deck and not my head... I suppose I could install some stick on non skid strips unless anyone has a better idea. If nothing else, be careful out there as it's pretty dangerous.

Jonc


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## Winters97gt

Jonc said:


> Congrats on the new purchase yeocokent. You'll love these little boats. Stepped off the front deck the other day in the rain and the next think I see is all blue sky and my feet. Wondering if any of you have addressed that spot on the tunnel with no non skid? Not sure how much of it is exposed on the 17's but I have about a foot exposed on the 16. Fortunately my back landed on the front deck and not my head... I suppose I could install some stick on non skid strips unless anyone has a better idea. If nothing else, be careful out there as it's pretty dangerous.
> 
> Jonc


Haven't addressed it, but I've had 3 guys wipe out hard on it. My old man hit hard and was bruised for days, and he's a big, tough, sob. The last that wiped out there was a local shrimp fisherman from SPI and is a 285 pound guy. Thought he punched a hole in the bow. He had hooked a 24" inch trout(which we got in), stepped down and bamb.


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## frankcr

We use the stick on stair tread strips on the floor of an inflatable after having gas/oil mixture get on the wooden floor once and render it slippery. Works great and would correct any slick surface plus the eye would notice it easily.


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## yeocokent

Thanks for the heads up on the slippery spot. Yes indeed, that looks dangerous and I would have found out the hard way if it wasn't for the warnings. I am going to paint some Kiwi Grip on there. I might do the entire deck with grey Kiwi Grip. Here is a pick in her new home from this morning. Sorry it is sideways.


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## OldManOwen

I guess i'm not the only one, stepped off in my flip flops and the next thing I know i'm seeing stars. I still had my favorite fishing rod in my hand thank god. I need to look into some non-skid for that spot.


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## Jonc

Ok.. Good to know I'm not the only clumsy one so I'll address it this weekend. I did snap my favorite 3 weight fly rod in half during the back flip presentation which ticked me off more than anything. For the life of me I can't figure out why a fly rod is so much more expensive than a casting rod. Evidently the Chinese must really struggle with that manufacturing process. 

Jonc


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## FlatsCatFL

Jonc said:


> Congrats on the new purchase yeocokent. You'll love these little boats. Stepped off the front deck the other day in the rain and the next think I see is all blue sky and my feet. Wondering if any of you have addressed that spot on the tunnel with no non skid? Not sure how much of it is exposed on the 17's but I have about a foot exposed on the 16. Fortunately my back landed on the front deck and not my head... I suppose I could install some stick on non skid strips unless anyone has a better idea. If nothing else, be careful out there as it's pretty dangerous.
> 
> Jonc


Jonc, I did address that issue. After almost busting my *** a few times, I went on the Seadek website and bought the step strips in white. They look unobtrusive and do the job.


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## yeocokent

Just had an issue that I thought I would post in case it helps anyone. We came in last night after an evening of fishing and the vapor separator was venting a steady stream of fuel out the vent tube into the water. I was going to pull the boat tonight to take it back to have it looked at. Before I did that I drained all the fuel from the tank and refilled with fresh fuel. I put quickclean in the tank and took her out on the water. Before going to the boat dock to pull her I took her out in open water at WOT. The fresh gas and quickclean seemed to take care of the problem and it is not venting fuel anymore. 

Other than that, I can't be happier with the ride. We had her out one some rougher water tonight and she is really a versatile boat. Perfect for the bay and tributaries of tidewater Virginia and Maryland. I really couldn't be happier so far.


----------



## Jonc

*Nothing all week?*

C'mon guys... This is my morning coffee ritual!

Jonc


----------



## azkenreid

Jonc said:


> C'mon guys... This is my morning coffee ritual!
> 
> Jonc


Yeah I know, me too. I guess it's time I introduced myself. I've read this entire forum in the last three weeks. Ken from Phoenix. Yes, that place in the Sonoran desert that has no water. I just bought a 2014 Mako 17 Skiff from BSP in Mesa, AZ. I've had it out three times, Roosevelt once and Bartlett twice.

I've been delaying posting as I've been on a modification/spending binge since I took her home. I've discovered that this is a dangerous place to hang out as you have given me many ideas to spend lots of money.

I can say that the 2014 has solved many of the issues I've read about here. The bait well issues have been resolved. It fills to the overflow level and has not yet splashed out of the seal. Try as I might, I've not yet got a drop of water from the bilge pump.

The cooler does leak small amounts of water even when the plug is in tight. Guess I can live with that.

I'll post more as I go. Still have lots of stuff to install. Will take some pics.

The slippy issue is still very present. My Nephew crashed twice while wearing pretty good water shoes.

Something else I discovered that hard way. I assumed that the back foot hold and grab handle would allow me to re-enter the boat from the water. Wrong! That foot hold is placed where it assumed that you are wading in shallow water and need to re-enter the boat. Try it from 6 feet of water and see how far you get. I'm not that large but also in not great shape. I could not pull myself onto or into the boat using those two devices. Happily I had deployed the Minn Kota Terrova and had it in anchor mode before I jumped over for a swim. I was able to reach over the side to get the trolling motor controller which was hanging from the Throttle handle. I used the trolling motor to navigate back to the shore where I could re-enter the boat. Otherwise, I would probably be drowned. I've read up on this in the meantime and have some new tools to use for re-entering a boat. Still, that was not cool.

Next install? Permanently mounted transom ladder.

All in all, I love this boat and I have had many. For what I spent, I could have had a sparkly bass boat with lots of stuff to rot and break. I didn't want that again.


----------



## FlyItAll

*Welcome Azkenreid*

I am also in Az. Bought my 17' Pro skiff last year from the Chandler BPS and still very happy with it. I finally have it set up like I want, just need to add the non slip that has been discussed recently. I tend to go to Bartlett and Pleasant since they are closest to me. If I see another Mako out there I'll swing by. Tight lines.


----------



## KeithD.

I was wondering if anyone one has come up with a solution for the cavitation. I don't really want get into raising the motor. How are the hydrofoils working out? Thanks


----------



## KeithD.

Can someone tell me what page had all the prop info on. I am thinking of changing my prop and adding a hydrofoil to help with the cavitation and improve performance. Thanks


----------



## joebucko

KeithD
The prop info is on page 110 http://2coolfishing.com/ttmbforum/showthread.php?t=407563&highlight=prop&page=110


----------



## KeithD.

Thanks Joe appreciate the help


----------



## KeithD.

Has anybody come up with an idea of how many miles they can run on the stock fuel tank? I ran mine this weekend and got about 31 nautical miles before we ran out of gas.


----------



## KeithD.

Has anyone been able to mount a steering knob on the OEM steering wheel? Can you change the steering wheel to a different one that would accept a knob? Thanks


----------



## frankcr

I would not mount a knob on a planing hull.


----------



## KeithD.

Frank what is your reasoning?


----------



## joebucko

KeithD
The steering wheel is a standard 13.5" wheel sitting on a tapered 3/4" shaft. This is a very common size. I changed mine out to a stainless steel wheel without a knob. The most frustrating (dang near impossible) part of the process is actually getting the existing wheel off the 3/4" shaft. They are almost always frozen in place. The only practical way of doing it is with a wheel/gear puller capable of fitting the wheel.


----------



## azkenreid

FlyItAll said:


> I am also in Az. Bought my 17' Pro skiff last year from the Chandler BPS and still very happy with it. I finally have it set up like I want, just need to add the non slip that has been discussed recently. I tend to go to Bartlett and Pleasant since they are closest to me. If I see another Mako out there I'll swing by. Tight lines.


Yep, I go to Bartlett and Pleasant. Was at Pleasant last night and today. Caught plenty of stripers, one large mouth bass and one white bass. Never caught a white bass before. They're pretty sturdy fish.


----------



## latex

I was just looking around on the internet and saw pictures of a 2014 mako skiff. I noticed the trailer is not aluminum anymore. The picture I saw was a galvanize trailer. Any one know why they switched from aluminum? 

Sent from my VS876 using Tapatalk


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## frankcr

KeithD, I have found knobs to get in the way while steering the boat. Some call them knuckle busters and you seldom spin the wheel anyway.


----------



## doughnut_cat

Hi everyone. Fixing on buying my first boat.
Really interested in the mako. I was wondering if this boat would handle the SPI bay, laguna madre , or even taking out into the ocean? Can this boat handle something as shallow as the laguna? This would be my first time owning and operating a boat so forgive my novice questions. Thanks!


----------



## Winters97gt

doughnut_cat said:


> Hi everyone. Fixing on buying my first boat.
> Really interested in the mako. I was wondering if this boat would handle the SPI bay, laguna madre , or even taking out into the ocean? Can this boat handle something as shallow as the laguna? This would be my first time owning and operating a boat so forgive my novice questions. Thanks!


You will see me every week out of SPI in my boat. 150 hours in exactly 1 year driving from Houston and back 800 miles round trip in the car. It can handle just about every place you need to go in SPI and south of the Shacks, Cullen and the drum Boat, if you pay attention to the tides. It's not a tunnel hull like every other boat down there, so you have to know exactly what you're doing. 400-450 max load. I've stuck this boat in Mesquite, South Bay, Holly Beach, the Cullen House, Drum Boat, etc where my Dad's 21 foot Tunnel V explorer will run while on plane with a 500 pound load. I'm 6'1", get out, raise the motor, and the boat floats away. Not enough beam to support a heavy load, so 2 peopÅ‚e max in mine, or I'm taking the Explorer. I just walked in the door after returning from there while writing this with another freezer full of Mangrove Snapper, Trout, and Reds.


----------



## OldManOwen

latex said:


> I was just looking around on the internet and saw pictures of a 2014 mako skiff. I noticed the trailer is not aluminum anymore. The picture I saw was a galvanize trailer. Any one know why they switched from aluminum?
> 
> Sent from my VS876 using Tapatalk


I think I can answer this one...
Had to get a replacement trailer part under warranty for my 2012 Pro Skiff 17 and when BPS called they were informed the company was going out of business. The upright with the winch on it had a large crack in the welds on the flat plate that the u bolts attach it to on the trailer. The man who was answering the phone at the company (Rolco?) happened to have one in the shop and mailed it out to me free of charge. The one they sent looked identical with the exception that the flat plate on the bottom was made of galvanized steel and not aluminum thus eliminating the bending from them over tightening the u bolts and cracking the weld. I would be interested to see who is making the new trailers for Mako.


----------



## Winters97gt

:cop:


doughnut_cat said:


> Hi everyone. Fixing on buying my first boat.
> Really interested in the mako. I was wondering if this boat would handle the SPI bay, laguna madre , or even taking out into the ocean? Can this boat handle something as shallow as the laguna? This would be my first time owning and operating a boat so forgive my novice questions. Thanks!


Just re read your post that you're a novice. No, get a used shallow sport/dargel scooter for SPI. You will stick this boat every trip out. And the only time to go past the jetties is in August/September when the wind lays down to less than 5mph. MakoMike is the SPI guru to when to take this boat out past the jetties, but he's a seasoned angler and does what I won't do.


----------



## latex

OldManOwen said:


> I think I can answer this one...
> Had to get a replacement trailer part under warranty for my 2012 Pro Skiff 17 and when BPS called they were informed the company was going out of business. The upright with the winch on it had a large crack in the welds on the flat plate that the u bolts attach it to on the trailer. The man who was answering the phone at the company (Rolco?) happened to have one in the shop and mailed it out to me free of charge. The one they sent looked identical with the exception that the flat plate on the bottom was made of galvanized steel and not aluminum thus eliminating the bending from them over tightening the u bolts and cracking the weld. I would be interested to see who is making the new trailers for Mako.


That's to bad I would of liked the aluminum trailer over a galvanize. It will be awhile before I can pull the trigger so maybe that will go back to aluminum? ?

Sent from my VS876 using Tapatalk


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## doughnut_cat

Winters97gt said:


> :cop:
> 
> Just re read your post that you're a novice. No, get a used shallow sport/dargel scooter for SPI. You will stick this boat every trip out. And the only time to go past the jetties is in August/September when the wind lays down to less than 5mph. MakoMike is the SPI guru to when to take this boat out past the jetties, but he's a seasoned angler and does what I won't do.


I see, so you would not recommend a mako then? interesting. That changes my perspective a little. Thanks.


----------



## frankcr

The Skiff is out of its element in open ocean. Get a vee bottom, self bailing boat if you want to play offshore on any but perfect weather days.


----------



## wag1551

*2013 Mako 17*

I saw this boat at Bayer Marine in Tulsa. It looks to be in good shape with a standard trailer, trolling motor, cover and some kind of locator.

http://www.bayermarine.net/detail.aspx?id=221

I also saw this Mako on Craigslist

http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/boa/4486608317.html


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## doughnut_cat

Winters97gt said:


> :cop:
> 
> Just re read your post that you're a novice. No, get a used shallow sport/dargel scooter for SPI. You will stick this boat every trip out. And the only time to go past the jetties is in August/September when the wind lays down to less than 5mph. MakoMike is the SPI guru to when to take this boat out past the jetties, but he's a seasoned angler and does what I won't do.


 how would a dargel scout handle the bay?


----------



## doughnut_cat

frankcr said:


> The Skiff is out of its element in open ocean. Get a vee bottom, self bailing boat if you want to play offshore on any but perfect weather days.


 I want a boat for SPI bay use and laguna madre use. I was just wondering if this thing would handle the open sea. Not that I would ever go. Especially since im new to boating and fishing and dont really want to break the bank on my first boat. Im looking at the dargel and sportsman but I need to go in to get a real price.


----------



## Winters97gt

doughnut_cat said:


> how would a dargel scout handle the bay?


That's where Dargel started in 1937 with scooter. Scout just has higher gunwalls. It is designed for the skinny water of the LLM. It will run a lot shallower than the Mako could ever dream of.

The 190 Scout with a Mercury 150 Pro XS is on my list for a next boat soon.


----------



## doughnut_cat

Winters97gt said:


> That's where Dargel started in 1937 with scooter. Scout just has higher gunwalls. It is designed for the skinny water of the LLM. It will run a lot shallower than the Mako could ever dream of.
> 
> The 190 Scout with a Mercury 150 Pro XS is on my list for a next boat soon.


what about a carolina skiff? Thanks for all the help and suggestions.


----------



## azkenreid

latex said:


> I was just looking around on the internet and saw pictures of a 2014 mako skiff. I noticed the trailer is not aluminum anymore. The picture I saw was a galvanize trailer. Any one know why they switched from aluminum?
> 
> Sent from my VS876 using Tapatalk


I just purchased a 2014 Mako 17 skiff. It came with a Rolco aluminum trailer with surge brakes and a solenoid brake lockout.


----------



## Winters97gt

doughnut_cat said:


> what about a carolina skiff? Thanks for all the help and suggestions.


Perfect boat. All the best guides that fish everyday from Port Isabel, I mean everyday, not like a lot of the guides from SPI run them. R&R marina is owned by Russell Robinson, a good buddy of mine. You will see his boat, as with all the guides that run out of there run 24 ft Carolina Skiffs with a tunnel cut out in the back. I know the fiberglass guy that cuts the tunnels and he is good. Captain Gilbert from White Sands also runs one, as does Captain Gencho Jr. Contrary to what other people here will tell you, once that tunnel is cut, those Carolina Skiffs will run in ****. Been on them plenty.

The hull design is rough so you would want the extra length. You could pick up a 21ft, have the console installed, tunnel cut, rigged and a yamaha f115 for about 22k complete.

I've considered this too.

The boats in the price range for SPI I'm looking at are the Shallow Stalker 204, Dargel 190, Explorer Attackaflat(same mold as the Shallow Stalker), 21 foot Carolina Skiff, and a few others.


----------



## doughnut_cat

Winters97gt said:


> Perfect boat. All the best guides that fish everyday from Port Isabel, I mean everyday, not like a lot of the guides from SPI run them. R&R marina is owned by Russell Robinson, a good buddy of mine. You will see his boat, as with all the guides that run out of there run 24 ft Carolina Skiffs with a tunnel cut out in the back. I know the fiberglass guy that cuts the tunnels and he is good. Captain Gilbert from White Sands also runs one, as does Captain Gencho Jr. Contrary to what other people here will tell you, once that tunnel is cut, those Carolina Skiffs will run in ****. Been on them plenty.
> 
> The hull design is rough so you would want the extra length. You could pick up a 21ft, have the console installed, tunnel cut, rigged and a yamaha f115 for about 22k complete.
> 
> I've considered this too.
> 
> The boats in the price range for SPI I'm looking at are the Shallow Stalker 204, Dargel 190, Explorer Attackaflat(same mold as the Shallow Stalker), 21 foot Carolina Skiff, and a few others.


Is cutting the tunnel a mod? I think I may go with the 18. Would I be able tomod the 18? At Ron Hoover the 18 runs 22k~.


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## Winters97gt

The fancy finished 19 comes in a tunnel if I remember correctly, but no, I'm talking a ground up bare bones build. Just like the guides have. Cutting the tunnel is a mod.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*Rolco Trailers*



latex said:


> I was just looking around on the internet and saw pictures of a 2014 mako skiff. I noticed the trailer is not aluminum anymore. The picture I saw was a galvanize trailer. Any one know why they switched from aluminum?
> 
> Sent from my VS876 using Tapatalk


Latex, if you have not gone to the Rolcotrailers.com website yet, give it a look. Click the tab "about us", it will give you some recent and past history of the brand.


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## latex

FlatsCatFL said:


> Latex, if you have not gone to the Rolcotrailers.com website yet, give it a look. Click the tab "about us", it will give you some recent and past history of the brand.


Will do thanks!

Sent from my VS876 using Tapatalk


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## charliel2

*From Carolina Skiff Forum*

Wondering if the Mako AIV hull has same issues.






http://www.carolinaskiffowner.com/s...rain-water-from-a-CS-DLV-Hull-Start-To-Finish

Page 8 has a Mako ProSkiff pic.


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## azkenreid

charliel2 said:


> Wondering if the Mako AIV hull has same issues.


Wow. That's messed up. Would love to see the results of that on the Mako AIV hull. Without actually having to drill the holes I mean sad3sm


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## Winters97gt

azkenreid said:


> Wow. That's messed up. Would love to see the results of that on the Mako AIV hull. Without actually having to drill the holes I mean sad3sm


I can answer that.


----------



## latex

Winters97gt said:


> I can answer that.


Did you ever get this resolved with mako??

Sent from my VS876 using Tapatalk


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## frankcr

You know, if I had a hull which leaked for as long as Winters boat has done, I would trace down the leak and repair it. If the dealer cannot find the problem, then the responsibility falls on the user.

I have never had any leakage whatsoever in mine and doubt many have. The usual first suspect is the hull drain and after making sure that is not the problem, you should examine all openings in the hull for leaks. 

As far as comparing leakage of a Carolina Skiff to a Mako, all boats are different even when coming from the same manufacturer. That concern would be far down on my list if considering a purchase. Suitability for use on the waters we frequent would be the first thing which one should investigate.

The question of using the skiff in the open ocean is frequently asked. If you plan to spend more than a few trips in perfect weather, a 17 ft non self bailing boat would not even be a consideration. I suspect that those asking this question do not have much time on the ocean to base their decisions on. Conditions on ocean waters can change drastically in a short span of time.


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## azkenreid

Winters97gt said:


> I can answer that.


Wow, that sucks. I get about a coffee cup full out of that drain after two days on the water.

I reported before that the bait well pump was fixed. Not so, was advised by a BSP tech to drive backwards to get the thing pumping.


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## azkenreid

Winters97gt said:


> I can answer that.


I would temporarily seal both the entry and exit for the bait well.


----------



## azkenreid

I also find the bilge drain plug suspicious. I don't like the way it's threaded and the o-ring seems small. I don't usually like to over tighten things, but in this case I use a small pliers to dog it down pretty good. I also put some grease on the threads so it would turn more easily.


----------



## Jonc

For what its worth, my boat is on a lift and I check it daily for water in the hull. the only time it ever happens is when I wash down the boat. Of course I pull the deck plug but I'm totally convinced excess water seeps thru or over that crappy rubber boot in the stern because it takes on water every time. Water in faster than water out. too much volume for those little bilge pumps.

jonc


----------



## KeithD.

azkenreid,
You need to have your BPS do the mod with the t fitting and vent that the other guys are doing. That has seemed to fix my livewell issue as well.


----------



## azkenreid

KeithD. said:


> azkenreid,
> You need to have your BPS do the mod with the t fitting and vent that the other guys are doing. That has seemed to fix my livewell issue as well.


Thanks, it's at BPS now so I'll give them a call.


----------



## charliel2

*Livewell Fix*

http://s15.photobucket.com/user/charliel2/story/120751

My BPS is about 40 minutes away. Was easier, and probably cheaper versus gas there and back, to just fix it myself.


----------



## charliel2

*Water in hulls*

I've said it before and I'll say it again...there should always be a way to get water out of the bildge (below the deck) while underway. You should not have to pull the boat in order to drain the hull. You will never be able to find and fix all the entry points for water to get into the hull, and you shouldn't have to. Even though these boats will never sink (too much foam) the only good fix is to have a true bildge pump in the lowest point. Preferrably a pump with a float switch.


----------



## charliel2

*150*

And let me say, "wow!"

150 pages in this thread.


----------



## Winters97gt

azkenreid said:


> I would temporarily seal both the entry and exit for the bait well.


Tried that myself.


----------



## joebucko

A buddy and I had to have our fishing fix today so we ventured out on Lake Lewisville here in North Texas just north of DFW airport. It has been extremely windy in North Texas all spring and today was just a little worse than normal. Wind out of the South at 13-15 gusting 20-25. We mapped out our plan avoiding the main lake as much as possible and went for it.

My Mako surprised both of us the way it handled the conditions. There were several main lake points we wanted to fish but the wind was screaming around them so we motored the skiff into position so that we could cast downwind, deployed the Minn Kota Terrova iPilot and hit the ANCHOR button. I did not really expect it to hold us but surprise surprise we just sat there bow pointed into the wind. We thoroughly worked each point without having to constantly adjust a trolling motor and managed to catch several nice largemouth bass and a few white bass were a bonus. 

These were the roughest conditions I have been in with my proskiff. The stability of the craft is really amazing. Pulling the drain plug on the ramp resulted in my usual two teaspoons of water. All in all a great day.


----------



## frankcr

Had to go to Bass Pro, and they had a new Pro Skiff at the store.

It was mounted on a galvanized trailer.

There was the plastic box on the inlet of the bait well thru hull with three holes drilled in the top to allow air to be excluded from the pump inlet and prevent air lock provided there was not space to contain air in the pump body.

It would appear that the pump would prime itself, but is anyone running a boat fitted out like this?


----------



## arrowhand

been reading this tread for 2 days now, WOW. 

Headed to BPS this Sunday to check them out, if all looks good will be hopefully putting a deposit down but wont be able to go and get it till the weekend after July 4th due to work.


----------



## Winters97gt

Well, I picked up a Minn Kota Riptide 55lb 48 inch Ipilot today for 900. Got a discount since it was a display model. I talked to the next 3 boat manufacturers that I'm considering whenever I get rid of this boat. It will fit. I got this for Mangrove Snapper, Gag Grouper and Snook in a honey hole of mine. I've been anchoring in a no anchor spot in a ship channel, and the coast guard has had enough warning me and finally popped me last week.

Need some mounting ideas. Have to say, I got what a paid for with this trolling motor, but it looks cheap. If you've seen my videos, I push my boat very hard, even in snot. I'm worried that the closed/stored position will not be secure enough to protect the blade and top head/brains of this trolling motor. I was thinking maybe an I bolt with a bungee to preload the end with the GPS/brains. 

Any suggestions and pictures of your 12v setups would be appreciated.


----------



## Jonc

*Trolling motor*

Hey Winters,

I believe we all mounted ours in a similar way by utilizing a piece of Starboard to deal with the lip on the bow gunwale. Joe B. Also installed a pretty slick support post to hold the control head fast. I have of pics but perhaps Joe's would serve you better. By the way Joe, thanks for planting that SS steering wheel in my head earlier this week.... I gotta stop visiting the forum as it seemingly costs me money every time!

Jonc


----------



## frankcr

Ouch, Winters, a fellow we worked with got ticketed by the CG for tieing up to a navigation tower and thought it was a joke until he received the fine for obstructing navigation. He went through all the steps, but ended up paying a whopping fine anyway. Hopefully you will get off easier.


----------



## joebucko

Winters97gt
You will like the convenience of the trolling motor. Here is a picture of my mount. A 3/4" piece of starboard will bring the motor up level with the front lip. I added a piece of 1/4" aluminum plate between the minnkota quick release metal slide and the starboard then bolted the entire assembly through the deck. I tried the MinnKota composite slide with the puck but did not like it at all and opted for the metal one. All I have to do is unscrew one thumb screw and slide the entire motor off the boat. It is a rock solid mount. I added the Rammount support for two reasons:
1. I did not want any head bounce and risk slamming the control head against the deck.
2. I did not want any possibility of the motor self-deploying while under way.

The rammount has worked great. With it in place the motor will not move no matter how rough it gets.


----------



## Winters97gt

Thanks Joe. That setup looks fantastic and secure. I'm definetly going to opt for the ram mount. That setup looks great.


----------



## azkenreid

charliel2 said:


> http://s15.photobucket.com/user/charliel2/story/120751
> 
> My BPS is about 40 minutes away. Was easier, and probably cheaper versus gas there and back, to just fix it myself.


Thanks for this. I will make this mod myself. I asked the techs at BPS in Mesa, AZ and got blank stares. Said they have no idea what mod I am talking about.

I took the boat there Monday morning for the following:

Install stern ladder
Install keel savers
Install Bimini top
replace broken cooler latches
repair broken wire to solenoid brake lock out

I've called or stopped by every day this week. They did zilch. I told them I'm picking up my boat Friday afternoon and will bring it back Monday morning. That's pretty crappy customer service. I'm noticing that this entire store has pretty poor management. There are some new people starting soon. I hope things improve.

I need to add to that list that the tach starts at 1000. Is that normal?


----------



## azkenreid

joebucko said:


> A buddy and I had to have our fishing fix today so we ventured out on Lake Lewisville here in North Texas just north of DFW airport. It has been extremely windy in North Texas all spring and today was just a little worse than normal. Wind out of the South at 13-15 gusting 20-25. We mapped out our plan avoiding the main lake as much as possible and went for it.
> 
> My Mako surprised both of us the way it handled the conditions. There were several main lake points we wanted to fish but the wind was screaming around them so we motored the skiff into position so that we could cast downwind, deployed the Minn Kota Terrova iPilot and hit the ANCHOR button. I did not really expect it to hold us but surprise surprise we just sat there bow pointed into the wind. We thoroughly worked each point without having to constantly adjust a trolling motor and managed to catch several nice largemouth bass and a few white bass were a bonus.
> 
> These were the roughest conditions I have been in with my proskiff. The stability of the craft is really amazing. Pulling the drain plug on the ramp resulted in my usual two teaspoons of water. All in all a great day.


The Terrova is awesome. I love that thing. I purchased a real anchor today, but last Saturday night I used anchor mode for 8 hours overnight. I was confident enough in the motor that I slept for four of those hours. Bartlett lake, which is a small desert reservoir with about 3 MPH wind. Nothing serious, but I think that's pretty impressive. Fished the next day from dawn till noon and still had two lights on the battery check.

Make sure to get aligned with the wind and current before engaging anchor mode. The on board compass will maintain your bow position as well.


----------



## azkenreid

frankcr said:


> Had to go to Bass Pro, and they had a new Pro Skiff at the store.
> 
> It was mounted on a galvanized trailer.
> 
> There was the plastic box on the inlet of the bait well thru hull with three holes drilled in the top to allow air to be excluded from the pump inlet and prevent air lock provided there was not space to contain air in the pump body.
> 
> It would appear that the pump would prime itself, but is anyone running a boat fitted out like this?


I have that setup, but the pump still would not pump water last time out. BPS tech said I should put it in reverse and turn on the pump to prime it. Haven't tried that yet.


----------



## azkenreid

Winters97gt said:


> Well, I picked up a Minn Kota Riptide 55lb 48 inch Ipilot today for 900. Got a discount since it was a display model. I talked to the next 3 boat manufacturers that I'm considering whenever I get rid of this boat. It will fit. I got this for Mangrove Snapper, Gag Grouper and Snook in a honey hole of mine. I've been anchoring in a no anchor spot in a ship channel, and the coast guard has had enough warning me and finally popped me last week.
> 
> Need some mounting ideas. Have to say, I got what a paid for with this trolling motor, but it looks cheap. If you've seen my videos, I push my boat very hard, even in snot. I'm worried that the closed/stored position will not be secure enough to protect the blade and top head/brains of this trolling motor. I was thinking maybe an I bolt with a bungee to preload the end with the GPS/brains.
> 
> Any suggestions and pictures of your 12v setups would be appreciated.


I'm hoping I attached the pics correctly. I had BPS install the motor, batteries and charger. I think the pics tell the story. I asked them about the head bouncing around. They said it doesn't come with one, but it's recommended. I bought and installed:






There is a pic included. It's spendy at $90 bucks, but I have to say it's very well constructed and tight. It's also pretty sexy looking compared to the Ram mount.

The tech (Kurt) mounted the motor well forward and used a shim on the back end. You can see that in the pic.


----------



## azkenreid

BPS sales also suggested a quick mount for the trolling motor. My immediate response was no thanks.

The Reid clan has traditionally not had great success with shake down cruises and boating in general. We have sunk more than one boat at Arizona lakes. I rode Submarines in the U.S. Navy and so have more experience on the water than your average Reid. I haven't sunk anything yet. Well, a Submarine once, but that wasn't my fault. 

Several years ago, my Dad bought a Pro Craft fish and ski. He opted for the quick mount for the trolling motor. Went up to Saguaro to test everything out. Got past the no wake, went up on plane, hit a bump and the trolling motor, foot controller and everything attached went up and over the windshield and into the drink. Looked like the Loch Ness monster trying to get back home. Took it back to Marine Max in Tempe, they said "sorry must be our mistake" and put a new one on. We took it out again and yes, you guessed it, same thing. Took it back and bolted a new one to the bow. 

No quick releases for me. 

As for that Submarine, it's now at the bottom of the pacific ocean, but I remember it fondly.


----------



## joebucko

azkenreid
Service from BassPro varies greatly from location to location. Some are great and some not so much. I notice that you have two batteries under the bow. I assume you have the 24v 80# thrust trolling motor. Just curious why they mounted the batteries under the deck on the same side of the boat as the tm? I would think for balance you would want the batteries on the starboard side? It would be pretty simple for you to move them without involving Bass Pro if it affects your ride.


----------



## azkenreid

joebucko said:


> azkenreid
> Service from BassPro varies greatly from location to location. Some are great and some not so much. I notice that you have two batteries under the bow. I assume you have the 24v 80# thrust trolling motor. Just curious why they mounted the batteries under the deck on the same side of the boat as the tm? I would think for balance you would want the batteries on the starboard side? It would be pretty simple for you to move them without involving Bass Pro if it affects your ride.


They suggested that and I allowed it because I mount a Yeti Tundra 50 on the starboard stern deck. Depending on the trip, I might fill it with ice for drinks and such, then on day two remove all that and ice some fish. For tourneys, I can fill it with water and use it for a live well to keep the fish alive. In Arizona, fish have to be turned in alive.

That and a 12 gallon gas tank on the port stern keeps everything balanced.


----------



## Jonc

Nicely done azkenreid... Quick question, I have the same TM setup as you do and wondering about your charger. Is it a true on board or do you plug it in when you get her home? Couldn't tell by the pics. 

Jonc


----------



## panhandlekelly

azkenreid said:


> Thanks for this. I will make this mod myself. I asked the techs at BPS in Mesa, AZ and got blank stares. Said they have no idea what mod I am talking about.
> 
> I took the boat there Monday morning for the following:
> 
> Install stern ladder
> Install keel savers
> Install Bimini top
> replace broken cooler latches
> repair broken wire to solenoid brake lock out
> 
> I've called or stopped by every day this week. They did zilch. I told them I'm picking up my boat Friday afternoon and will bring it back Monday morning. That's pretty crappy customer service. I'm noticing that this entire store has pretty poor management. There are some new people starting soon. I hope things improve.
> 
> I need to add to that list that the tach starts at 1000. Is that normal?


Would you please post a picture of the stern ladder install when or if it ever happens. Spanish Fort, Al BP is about the same.


----------



## joebucko

*14"Pitch Vengeance propeller*

Is anyone running a Mercury Vengeance 14"P prop on their Mako ProSkiff with the Mercury 60hp engine? If so how does it perform...max MPH and max RPM.
Thanks


----------



## rgourley11

*Troll motor*

Joebucko. I have noticed everyone has just about installed a troll motor on their boats now, I finally will be getting one on mine to. Can everyone tell me what trust and shaft length has been the best for them. Thanks
I am looking at getting the Minn Kota Riptide SP 70lb trust 24v 54" shaft with the i-pilot


----------



## KeithD.

I use a 55lb 12 volt 54 inch shaft. You may want to think about the 24 volt setup. Two batteries is a lot of weight and I don't really think you need it unless you deal with an extreme amount of wind or current.


----------



## joebucko

rgourley11
The 54" 70# Riptide would be a good choice. I have a 55# Terrova with iPilot and love it. For me 70# would be a little overkill but I only fish freshwater lakes with no current or tide. The 55# will pull my proskiff along at 2.5mph when running at full thrust and will anchor me in position under pretty rough conditions. If its too rough to hold me then its too rough for me to be fishing. Being 12volt I only have one battery to contend with but have never drained more than 25% of the charge on a trip. I will never have another boat without an ipilot equipped trolling motor.


----------



## Winters97gt

KeithD. said:


> I use a 55lb 12 volt 54 inch shaft. You may want to think about the 24 volt setup. Two batteries is a lot of weight and I don't really think you need it unless you deal with an extreme amount of wind or current.


Exactly, I know the performance of this boat inside and out. It's very temperamental to weight. No way I'd go with 2 batteries.

I cruise at 5200-5300rpms just because my hauls are long and in skinny water. The less weight, the better. Unless I'm just fishing the ICW, my boat is 2 person max.

Azkenreid, thanks for the pics, that setup would bug me. With the headunit so close to the middle of the bow. 85% of my fishing is running hard up in to 8-10 inches of water and drifting off a spoil bank with rapid fire casting once we shut down. Also, this boat is small, not sure a 54" shaft is needed.

Thanks though guys!


----------



## Jonc

I have the 24v 70 with I pilot with TM port and batteries starboard. Actually the added weight helps sit the nose down a bit at slower speeds and doesn't list the boat either way so I'm very pleased with it. Just a different view as we all have them. I-pilot is a must as is lake master charts if you're fishing inland waters. For $150 you can purchase your area of the world in multi states and can download updates on a regular basis. Check it out online, amazing benefit for anyone who fishes more than casually.

Jonc


----------



## panhandlekelly

I also use a 55#/12 volt Riptide. I think it works great, no complaints. Just wish I had spent extra $ and got an I-Pilot.


----------



## Winters97gt

Do you guys see the 48" being too short?


----------



## azkenreid

Jonc said:


> Nicely done azkenreid... Quick question, I have the same TM setup as you do and wondering about your charger. Is it a true on board or do you plug it in when you get her home? Couldn't tell by the pics.
> 
> Jonc


I plug it in when I get home, or to a generator


----------



## joebucko

Winters97gt said:


> Do you guys see the 48" being too short?


My Terrova is the 45" and does fine. In really rough conditions I lower it all the way down to insure the prop stays in the water but honestly when it gets that rough I quit fishing.


----------



## arrowhand

bought the boat today, pro 17 with 60hp. picking up in a couple weeks--due to work schedule. got a question, how do you wire a 24volt trolling motor, done 12 volts in the past, but never a 24. planning on the minn kota 24 volt 80lb with I pilot. is it as simple as positive to positive, negative to negative and then run the wires to the trolling motor , and what gauge wire would I use.

Thanks


----------



## mmacro

*Bimini top & slide tracks*

I am waiting to purchase a 17 Pro Skiff with the 60 HP motor. (4th of July sale has the 17' for sale with the 60 hp motor for the price of the smaller motor)

I will need to put a bimini top on it for my wife and girls (all fair skinned and blond)... Does anyone know if someone makes any kind of track for the top's mounts that are also compatible with Scotty rod mounts?

I currently fish a 14' kayak and I put YakAttack tracks on it so I can adjust rod holders, bait tables, etc... on it for when my daughter fishes on it with me (last summer when she was 4 1/2 she was hauling in 12" small mouth on the Hudson at our summer cabin).

I was thinking it might be possible to have some kind of track along the port and starboard sides that allow me to slide the bimini fore or aft to get the shade in the right spots and also adjust fishing spots, bait cutting boards, and so on for the number of people I have on board.


----------



## panhandlekelly

joebucko said:


> My Terrova is the 45" and does fine. In really rough conditions I lower it all the way down to insure the prop stays in the water but honestly when it gets that rough I quit fishing.


Mine is a 48 and works just fine, does not come out of the water.


----------



## Winters97gt

Thanks guys. I only plan on using it in deep water situations as an anchor or to work structure since the coast guard is up my you know what.


----------



## Jonc

arrowhand said:


> bought the boat today, pro 17 with 60hp. picking up in a couple weeks--due to work schedule. got a question, how do you wire a 24volt trolling motor, done 12 volts in the past, but never a 24. planning on the minn kota 24 volt 80lb with I pilot. is it as simple as positive to positive, negative to negative and then run the wires to the trolling motor , and what gauge wire would I use.
> 
> Thanks


To the trolling motor Arrowhand you attach the positive lead to the positive post on battery #1 and the the negative lead to the negative post on battery #2. Then you need a jumper cable to connect the remaining posts on each battery positive to negative. Make sure you read the instructions on your trolling motor and purchase the correct size fuses to each lead as typically they don't come with one. Your on board charger will also need connected and fused as per instructions. Check the internet as there's a ton of schematics you can print out. Way easier than it sounds.

Jonc


----------



## Jonc

Jonc said:


> To the trolling motor Arrowhand you attach the positive lead to the positive post on battery #1 and the the negative lead to the negative post on battery #2. Then you need a jumper cable to connect the remaining posts on each battery positive to negative. Make sure you read the instructions on your trolling motor and purchase the correct size fuses to each lead as typically they don't come with one. Your on board charger will also need connected and fused as per instructions. Check the internet as there's a ton of schematics you can print out. Way easier than it sounds.
> 
> Jonc


10 gauge wire or what is recommended in your instructions.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*some recent new mods*

hello all.

here are a couple of pics of some recent mods for the trailer and boat. the trailer slicks are great and work well. there is MUCH less angst in loading/unloading the boat now.

the Seadek strips have taken care of that nasty slick spot in front of the live well.

cheers!


----------



## joebucko

FlatsCatFL said:


> hello all.
> 
> here are a couple of pics of some recent mods for the trailer and boat. the trailer slicks are great and work well. there is MUCH less angst in loading/unloading the boat now.
> 
> the Seadek strips have taken care of that nasty slick spot in front of the live well.
> 
> cheers!


Looks GREAT FlatsCatFl. I have never slipped on that spot in my boat but took the previous warnings to heart and used Hydroturf to prevent slipping. I'll post pictures later today.


----------



## rgourley11

*Troll motor*

Thanks guys for info.


----------



## azkenreid

*Holy *****

The trailer that came with my Mako is a Rolco aluminum with surge brakes. I discovered on day one that the brake lockout system did not work when I brought home my bouncing baby boat and it literally became a bouncing baby boat while backing into my driveway. That's why the pictures that were posted previously show the boat in front of my house on the sidewalk rather than in the driveway or garage.

My neighbor is a mechanical kind of guy so I got him outside to have a look. He said "there's a pin, we just have to find it." Looked high and low, no pin. Called BSP and the tech said "there's a pin, you just have to find it." I assured him that I searched thoroughly, and there is no pin. He said that he would have to contact the manufacturer for advice. I interpret that to mean "please hang up the phone; I'm trying to finish my sandwich."

After thinking about this for awhile I reasoned that nobody would manufacture a trailer this way. If there is no pin, then the logical answer is that the lockout system uses a solenoid. After patting myself on the back for being such a smart guy, I headed back to BSP to troubleshoot the solenoid. Wish I had taken things one step further, but I thought for what I paid, it's not my problem.

Back at BSP I explained the problem to the tech and told him there is no pin, there must be a solenoid. He got on his back under the trailer tongue and sure enough the blue wire that controls the brake lockout was cut. Bingo! He fixed the wire and tested it with a fake truck. Everything worked fine. Hooked it up to my 2011 F-150 and nothing. He told me that my five to seven pin adapter was bad or the truck wiring was bad. You get bonus points if you figure this out early.

So I took my bouncing little boat back home and started thinking. I've been troubleshooting low voltage systems for 35 years. There are never two problems and one symptom. Two symptoms, one problem, sure. One symptom and two problems, no. After thinking about this for awhile (I won't say how long) I reasoned that because the wire was frayed there must also be a blown fuse. Good God I'm smart. It's amazing.

So I grabbed the electrical diagram from the glove box. This is the one they include for the towing package. Ford provides but doesn't install a relay and fuse for the electric brakes or the trailer charging system. Looking at the diagram it showed the backup light signal from the center pin of the 5 to 7 adapter, to fuse 58 to the backup relay to fuse 43. I opened the fuse box and Bingo!! Fuse 58 was not installed. I installed a 15 amp fuse and again congratulated myself for being such a smart guy. I tested the signal to the center pin.....nothing. Well, that doesn't make sense. After thinking about this for awhile (I won't say how long) I asked myself "Ken, why would a signal go through two fuses, that makes no sense?" After awhile I agreed with myself and decided to pull fuse 43 to check it. Bingo!! Fuse 43 was blown. I then checked the ownerâ€™s manual diagram and sure enough, fuse 58 is listed as not used. After replacing fuse 43, I again tested for the backup signal and it's present on the 5 to 7 pin adapter.

So don't be fooled by fuse 58 if you have an F-150. The diagram is wrong.

I'll take suggestions for a moral to the story but be gentle.


----------



## Winters97gt

Lol, good post. 

Unless you have an incredibly steep boat ramp like many lakes do, or deep water water bays do combined with a light tow vehicle, don't get the upgraded trailer! The swing away tongue is nice, but you don't need brakes with this boat. It's a waste on a little skiff, wish I hadn't opted for one.


----------



## azkenreid

FlatsCatFL said:


> hello all.
> 
> here are a couple of pics of some recent mods for the trailer and boat. the trailer slicks are great and work well. there is MUCH less angst in loading/unloading the boat now.
> 
> the Seadek strips have taken care of that nasty slick spot in front of the live well.
> 
> cheers!


FlatsCatFL, why the slicks? I'm installing some CE Smith Post-Style Guide-Ons because it tends to be windy here in AZ when I am trailering my boat. These should keep the stern from swinging out. I usually launch/trailer by myself.

What problem are you trying to resolve with the slicks?


----------



## azkenreid

Winters97gt said:


> Lol, good post.
> 
> Unless you have an incredibly steep boat ramp like many lakes do, or deep water water bays do combined with a light tow vehicle, don't get the upgraded trailer! The swing away tongue is nice, but you don't need brakes with this boat. It's a waste on a little skiff, wish I hadn't opted for one.


Yep, I think you are right. But, I really liked that swing away tongue. These brakes are going to cause a lot of heartache in the future.


----------



## yeocokent

Winters97gt said:


> you don't need brakes with this boat. It's a waste on a little skiff, wish I hadn't opted for one.


This^^^ I didn't even know brakes were an option. Definitely not needed for a little boat this size. Just one more thing to go wrong.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

Azkenreid,
With my trailer wheels well submerged when launching the skiff, the hull was still sticking to the bunks way too much. Trying to launch by myself was a PIA.


----------



## joebucko

azkenreid said:


> FlatsCatFL, why the slicks? I'm installing some CE Smith Post-Style Guide-Ons because it tends to be windy here in AZ when I am trailering my boat. These should keep the stern from swinging out. I usually launch/trailer by myself.
> 
> What problem are you trying to resolve with the slicks?


A number of us have installed slicks on our bunks. In my case I am forced to use a very shallow ramp due to the low water level in the lake. It makes launch and retrieval very easy. On steeper ramps the boat floats on and off the trailer quite easily.


----------



## azkenreid

I get it. Must be the angle of the ramp I'm using. The boat floats too easily and the stern blows away. Looking forward to the guides.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

azkenreid said:


> The trailer that came with my Mako is a Rolco aluminum with surge brakes. I discovered on day one that the brake lockout system did not work when I brought home my bouncing baby boat and it literally became a bouncing baby boat while backing into my driveway. That's why the pictures that were posted previously show the boat in front of my house on the sidewalk rather than in the driveway or garage.
> 
> My neighbor is a mechanical kind of guy so I got him outside to have a look. He said "there's a pin, we just have to find it." Looked high and low, no pin. Called BSP and the tech said "there's a pin, you just have to find it." I assured him that I searched thoroughly, and there is no pin. He said that he would have to contact the manufacturer for advice. I interpret that to mean "please hang up the phone; I'm trying to finish my sandwich."
> 
> After thinking about this for awhile I reasoned that nobody would manufacture a trailer this way. If there is no pin, then the logical answer is that the lockout system uses a solenoid. After patting myself on the back for being such a smart guy, I headed back to BSP to troubleshoot the solenoid. Wish I had taken things one step further, but I thought for what I paid, it's not my problem.
> 
> Back at BSP I explained the problem to the tech and told him there is no pin, there must be a solenoid. He got on his back under the trailer tongue and sure enough the blue wire that controls the brake lockout was cut. Bingo! He fixed the wire and tested it with a fake truck. Everything worked fine. Hooked it up to my 2011 F-150 and nothing. He told me that my five to seven pin adapter was bad or the truck wiring was bad. You get bonus points if you figure this out early.
> 
> So I took my bouncing little boat back home and started thinking. I've been troubleshooting low voltage systems for 35 years. There are never two problems and one symptom. Two symptoms, one problem, sure. One symptom and two problems, no. After thinking about this for awhile (I won't say how long) I reasoned that because the wire was frayed there must also be a blown fuse. Good God I'm smart. It's amazing.
> 
> So I grabbed the electrical diagram from the glove box. This is the one they include for the towing package. Ford provides but doesn't install a relay and fuse for the electric brakes or the trailer charging system. Looking at the diagram it showed the backup light signal from the center pin of the 5 to 7 adapter, to fuse 58 to the backup relay to fuse 43. I opened the fuse box and Bingo!! Fuse 58 was not installed. I installed a 15 amp fuse and again congratulated myself for being such a smart guy. I tested the signal to the center pin.....nothing. Well, that doesn't make sense. After thinking about this for awhile (I won't say how long) I asked myself "Ken, why would a signal go through two fuses, that makes no sense?" After awhile I agreed with myself and decided to pull fuse 43 to check it. Bingo!! Fuse 43 was blown. I then checked the ownerâ€™s manual diagram and sure enough, fuse 58 is listed as not used. After replacing fuse 43, I again tested for the backup signal and it's present on the 5 to 7 pin adapter.
> 
> So don't be fooled by fuse 58 if you have an F-150. The diagram is wrong.
> 
> I'll take suggestions for a moral to the story but be gentle.


Azkenreid,

I have experienced a similar situation with my rig. In the future, if electrically, the solenoid backup system malfunctions you'll need to get yourself a wide mouth C-clamp. Place the C-clamp behind the pin in the sliding space for the master cylinder. Tighten the C-clamp down, this will keep the master cylinder plunger from sliding, negating pressure on the brake pads when backing up. I now keep a C-clamp in my tow vehicle.


----------



## arrowhand

ive used a nickel in the actuator slide with my other boats to get to backup


----------



## azkenreid

FlatsCatFL said:


> Azkenreid,
> 
> I have experienced a similar situation with my rig. In the future, if electrically, the solenoid backup system malfunctions you'll need to get yourself a wide mouth C-clamp. Place the C-clamp behind the pin in the sliding space for the master cylinder. Tighten the C-clamp down, this will keep the master cylinder plunger from sliding, negating pressure on the brake pads when backing up. I now keep a C-clamp in my tow vehicle.


Nice! Thanks for the info. I'm sure I'll need it in the future.


----------



## mmacro

*New Pro Skiff owner*

I just put the paperwork thru for a 17' CC with the 60 hp outboard. Can't wait to pick it up tomorrow or Monday.

I got to look at another guys boat in the bay getting some work done to it. He had, what I can only describe as, a custom rod holder built for trolling...

It is stainless steel tubing with the 4 rod holders welded into the setup along the stern portion. The tubing went across the whole transom deck and curved up the port/starboard of the deck about a foot or 1.5 feet. It looked like the u-shape would provide a lot of strength.

The two center rod holders are slightly angled outward and the two outer rod holders are about 45' outward... it looks like it would spread lures out nicely behind the boat.

Has anyone seen or used this company's products before? http://ssicustomplastics.com/products/?route=product/category&path=59_61
I don't know the measurements of the opening in the CC... but their tackle storage products look like if the measurements work I may put one in the CC.

They also have some pockets and other pieces that would be useful on the CC... Seems like a dream to install... the plastic CC and all.


----------



## joebucko

mmacro said:


> I just put the paperwork thru for a 17' CC with the 60 hp outboard. Can't wait to pick it up tomorrow or Monday.
> 
> I got to look at another guys boat in the bay getting some work done to it. He had, what I can only describe as, a custom rod holder built for trolling...
> 
> It is stainless steel tubing with the 4 rod holders welded into the setup along the stern portion. The tubing went across the whole transom deck and curved up the port/starboard of the deck about a foot or 1.5 feet. It looked like the u-shape would provide a lot of strength.
> 
> The two center rod holders are slightly angled outward and the two outer rod holders are about 45' outward... it looks like it would spread lures out nicely behind the boat.
> 
> Has anyone seen or used this company's products before? http://ssicustomplastics.com/products/?route=product/category&path=59_61
> I don't know the measurements of the opening in the CC... but their tackle storage products look like if the measurements work I may put one in the CC.
> 
> They also have some pockets and other pieces that would be useful on the CC... Seems like a dream to install... the plastic CC and all.


Too bad you didn't get a picture of the rod holder set up. It sounds interesting. As for the tackle storage systems you might be able to fit one of the smaller units into the opening of the CC. Follow this link to see how Bryster made his CC hatch cover. Instead of the tube storage Bryster used one of the storage units might fit. http://2coolfishing.com/ttmbforum/showthread.php?t=416841


----------



## Jonc

mmacro said:


> I just put the paperwork thru for a 17' CC with the 60 hp outboard. Can't wait to pick it up tomorrow or Monday.
> 
> I got to look at another guys boat in the bay getting some work done to it. He had, what I can only describe as, a custom rod holder built for trolling...
> 
> It is stainless steel tubing with the 4 rod holders welded into the setup along the stern portion. The tubing went across the whole transom deck and curved up the port/starboard of the deck about a foot or 1.5 feet. It looked like the u-shape would provide a lot of strength.
> 
> The two center rod holders are slightly angled outward and the two outer rod holders are about 45' outward... it looks like it would spread lures out nicely behind the boat.
> 
> Has anyone seen or used this company's products before? http://ssicustomplastics.com/products/?route=product/category&path=59_61
> I don't know the measurements of the opening in the CC... but their tackle storage products look like if the measurements work I may put one in the CC.
> 
> They also have some pockets and other pieces that would be useful on the CC... Seems like a dream to install... the plastic CC and all.


Let us all know MMacro what you find out on the tackle storage insert. I'd purchase one of those in a heartbeat.

Jonc


----------



## Jonc

mmacro said:


> I just put the paperwork thru for a 17' CC with the 60 hp outboard. Can't wait to pick it up tomorrow or Monday.
> 
> I got to look at another guys boat in the bay getting some work done to it. He had, what I can only describe as, a custom rod holder built for trolling...
> 
> It is stainless steel tubing with the 4 rod holders welded into the setup along the stern portion. The tubing went across the whole transom deck and curved up the port/starboard of the deck about a foot or 1.5 feet. It looked like the u-shape would provide a lot of strength.
> 
> The two center rod holders are slightly angled outward and the two outer rod holders are about 45' outward... it looks like it would spread lures out nicely behind the boat.
> 
> Has anyone seen or used this company's products before? http://ssicustomplastics.com/products/?route=product/category&path=59_61
> I don't know the measurements of the opening in the CC... but their tackle storage products look like if the measurements work I may put one in the CC.
> 
> They also have some pockets and other pieces that would be useful on the CC... Seems like a dream to install... the plastic CC and all.


Let us all know MMacro what you find out on the tackle storage insert. I'd purchase one of those in a heartbeat.

Jonc


----------



## South Coaster

*A few questions about the Pro Skiff*

Lots of good info on here - I had a few questions:
1) Has anyone purchased/seen/taken a picture of the 'colored hull wrap' option?
2) What about the 'fore and aft mounted grab rails' option? 
3) Finally, any idea when the 2015 model would be released?

Thanks


----------



## ajn775

Jonc said:


> Let us all know MMacro what you find out on the tackle storage insert. I'd purchase one of those in a heartbeat.
> 
> Jonc


Check out http://www.seasnellmarine.com/Products.html. They make a flip-out tackle drawer made out of starboard for $130 but they can custom make anything. They have a lot of good reviews on thehulltruth and a buddy has one of their suction tool caddies that's really nice.


----------



## joebucko

*Clamp on Stainless Rod Holders*

I need to add a couple of rod holders for trolling and wondered if anyone has installed the clamp on stainless steel holders to your grab rail.

If so how are they working? I am also considering the Driftmaster line because I can flush mount the holders on either the bow or stern deck. If you troll and you have a set up you like please post some pictures.


----------



## OldManOwen

I have the Drift-Masters and love them. I have one on each corner and they are stout. I have pulled 9 bait U-Rig's with them for Striped Bass and they work great. We also down-line and drift over deep schools and they excel at that. I swap out to the 5 degree angle ones when down-lining and troll with the 15 degree ones from the stern. They spin off in seconds if your just taking the kids out or casting from either deck and don't want to hang up on anything. Can't beat the price either.


----------



## azkenreid

*If I weren't so stupid, my life would be so much simpler.*

Pretty sure I said before that I normally launch and trailer solo. Given the shallow draft on this boat the stern can swing pretty quick in the wind and get things sideways while trailering. The wind blows pretty good here in AZ this time of year.

I knew EXACTLY what was called for here. Post guide-ons. No brainer. Way to go. Get 'em ordered, get 'er done!

Received them this week. Couldn't wait the get them installed, but for the fact that BSP in Mesa was still holding my boat hostage for a second week. Still no work done. Same drill, different week. Called BSP and told them "coming to pick up my boat Friday night for a conjugal visit and will return it Monday morning." "No problem Mr. Reid, we are here to serve you!"

So, if you recall my previous post regarding the surge brake lockout, I WAS able to back into my very own driveway for the very first time. SCORE! This is amazing. I remember the feeling I had when my first daughter was married. It was awesome! This was better than that.

I gathered up all my parts and tools, a celebratory cigar and dove into this project head first. I like these simple little projects. I leave the heavy lifting to the professionals like the pros at Bass Pro Shop and Tracker Marine. 

So anyhoo, I read the instructions, divided the parts and started installing. It took a couple tries to figure out the best way to get the u-bolts on and tighten everything up. In the middle of the figuring, I noticed that there was some stuff in my way. Right in the middle of where I figured that these post guide-ons should be installed was some other junk. It was a square galvanized tube with a 90 degree bend with.....a 3" PVC pipe over the top!!! What? The very thing I was installing was already installed but under the trailer and inside horizontally, rather than outside and vertically.

It is after all the Deeeeeluxe trailer. I guess it makes sense.

Like I said, I'm an idiot.


----------



## OldManOwen

azkenreid that made me laugh! Take the posts back and use the credit for some new tackle, I think you have earned it at this point! Post up some pictures when you get her set up!


----------



## azkenreid

But really, who gives a darn. I'm going fishing tomorrow and Sunday with a buddy. The other stuff doesn't matter at all.


----------



## mmacro

The really interesting thing is that I'm stationed at Fort Meade, MD and SSI Custom Plastics is only about 40 minutes from my house... near some good places to put in to fish.
I sent them an email to see if they would be interested in looking at the CC to see of they would be interested in building a model specifically to fit he skiffs' CC. 
Does anyone know if the CC is the same on the 16 and 17. Seems like they would for simplicity sake. If enough people contacted them and asked about availability they might want to start making them.


----------



## yeocokent

mmacro said:


> I just put the paperwork thru for a 17' CC with the 60 hp outboard. Can't wait to pick it up tomorrow or Monday.
> 
> I got to look at another guys boat in the bay getting some work done to it. He had, what I can only describe as, a custom rod holder built for trolling...
> 
> It is stainless steel tubing with the 4 rod holders welded into the setup along the stern portion. The tubing went across the whole transom deck and curved up the port/starboard of the deck about a foot or 1.5 feet. It looked like the u-shape would provide a lot of strength.
> 
> The two center rod holders are slightly angled outward and the two outer rod holders are about 45' outward... it looks like it would spread lures out nicely behind the boat.
> 
> Has anyone seen or used this company's products before? http://ssicustomplastics.com/products/?route=product/category&path=59_61
> I don't know the measurements of the opening in the CC... but their tackle storage products look like if the measurements work I may put one in the CC.
> 
> They also have some pockets and other pieces that would be useful on the CC... Seems like a dream to install... the plastic CC and all.


I have seen what you are talking about on other boats. Most marine shops can custom make one for your boat. I considered one but want to keep the stern area as clear a possible. I have 3 flush mount rod holders that I am going install on the stern platform. One on each side and one in the middle. I haven't had chance to do the install yet though.


----------



## yeocokent

joebucko said:


> I need to add a couple of rod holders for trolling and wondered if anyone has installed the clamp on stainless steel holders to your grab rail.
> 
> If so how are they working? I am also considering the Driftmaster line because I can flush mount the holders on either the bow or stern deck. If you troll and you have a set up you like please post some pictures.


I have used those on another boat that I had and they worked well. You just need to tighten them down hard. Also, make sure you get them for the right tube size.


----------



## joebucko

yeocokent said:


> I have used those on another boat that I had and they worked well. You just need to tighten them down hard. Also, make sure you get them for the right tube size.


Thanks. I ordered two Taco clamp on stainless steel holders yesterday. I'll post the results after I have given them a thorough workout.


----------



## KeithD.

Has anybody had trouble with tires? I had a blow out yesterday on the highway. I have had the boat a year and this seems to be quite premature.


----------



## joebucko

KeithD. said:


> Has anybody had trouble with tires? I had a blow out yesterday on the highway. I have had the boat a year and this seems to be quite premature.


The cheap bias tires that came on my trailer had plenty of tread but were really badly weather cracked after a year so I had them changed out to radials at Discount Tire so I wouldn't have to worry about them. The radials have been on for a year now and they still look new.


----------



## Homestead Fl Man

Hello everyone , I'm a new owner ( 1 month , 5 times on the water ) of a pro skiff 17 2014 60hp . I've been reading through the forum up to page 120. Thanks for all the information. I got the 2014 thinking that some of these issues were resolved in the live well since the newer model has a stronger pump I believe. It still seems to get air locked but only for short periods of time. My big issue right now is the over flowing of the live well when I'm going full throttle . I first noticed it on my second trip. Water was flowing towards the back of the deck when I was driving . I didn't pay much attention and figured I must have filled the livewell to much for the rough chop I was navigating in. On my next trip I filled it less and was going full throttle on a flat day. This time water was pouring out of the livewell like a water fall, I even had some shrimp coming out. I told my buddy to open while we were driving to see what the heck was going on. To my surprise water was shooting out of the nozzle with some serious pressure . So we tightens the nozzle and that helped a little. But when ever I went "fast" water still spills out onto the deck. I think this is my only problem because after I used the bilge and pulled the boat out of the water I only had about two cups of water come out of the bottom drain which was probably from me rinsing the boat with a couple of buckets of water before I took the boat out of the water. I'm hoping it's something I can fix with out taking her back to bass pro. I think I can figure it out from reading the other threads ...., I hope. Otherwise I'm happy with my purchase and the boat takes me where I like to fish. When I figure out how post some pics I'll share them here. Thanks again everyone for your insight and guidance.


----------



## mmacro

*Live well overflowing*

Tighten down the inflow valve. It will slow the flow and let the drain keep up with it. We shouldn't have to do that... But it works. One other option I have not heard people ask about was installing a float switch in the live well and a pump on the outlet hose. Put the switch just a tad higher than the outflow screen and if the water gets too high because the gravity feed isn't fast enough and the pump kicks in and pumps the excess water out.



Homestead Fl Man said:


> Hello everyone , I'm a new owner ( 1 month , 5 times on the water ) of a pro skiff 17 2014 60hp . I've been reading through the forum up to page 120. Thanks for all the information. I got the 2014 thinking that some of these issues were resolved in the live well since the newer model has a stronger pump I believe. It still seems to get air locked but only for short periods of time. My big issue right now is the over flowing of the live well when I'm going full throttle . I first noticed it on my second trip. Water was flowing towards the back of the deck when I was driving . I didn't pay much attention and figured I must have filled the livewell to much for the rough chop I was navigating in. On my next trip I filled it less and was going full throttle on a flat day. This time water was pouring out of the livewell like a water fall, I even had some shrimp coming out. I told my buddy to open while we were driving to see what the heck was going on. To my surprise water was shooting out of the nozzle with some serious pressure . So we tightens the nozzle and that helped a little. But when ever I went "fast" water still spills out onto the deck. I think this is my only problem because after I used the bilge and pulled the boat out of the water I only had about two cups of water come out of the bottom drain which was probably from me rinsing the boat with a couple of buckets of water before I took the boat out of the water. I'm hoping it's something I can fix with out taking her back to bass pro. I think I can figure it out from reading the other threads ...., I hope. Otherwise I'm happy with my purchase and the boat takes me where I like to fish. When I figure out how post some pics I'll share them here. Thanks again everyone for your insight and guidance.


----------



## mmacro

*Power for fishfinder?*

I need to install my fish finder/chart plotter. I stuck my head up in the CC this morning (picked up the skiff Saturday and took the girls out yesterday).

There are two unused wires terminated with female plugs... A black and a blue wire. It seems to me that these might be "accessory" wires pre run at the factory.

Does anyone know what they are?


----------



## mmacro

*Tachometer slightly off*

I didn't it ice it when I picked up the boat Saturday... But apparently sitting in my driveway, with the engine turned off, my motor is already at about 600 to 700 rpm.

Is there a way to adjust it so it's zeroed out?


----------



## joebucko

mmacro said:


> I didn't it ice it when I picked up the boat Saturday... But apparently sitting in my driveway, with the engine turned off, my motor is already at about 600 to 700 rpm.
> 
> Is there a way to adjust it so it's zeroed out?


I wouldn't worry about the tachometer. When my motor is turned off my Tach needle sits at 1000rpm. As soon as the motor is started it reads correctly and idles around 700. As long as yours reads in the 700-750 range at idle I'd bet it is operating correctly.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

KeithD. said:


> Has anybody had trouble with tires? I had a blow out yesterday on the highway. I have had the boat a year and this seems to be quite premature.


KeithD,
As a matter of fact I have had tire issues. I just got the rig out of BP/TM shop in Dania two weeks ago. My port side tire was worn very badly on the inside of the tire after only about 800 miles. I thought it was an alignment issue as the starboard tire was wearing fairly evenly. The shop stated the port side was only 1/6" out of spec and according to Rolco that was 'normal'. To their credit the shop did replace and balance two new tires under warranty. Only time and miles will tell the true story. I check and maintain 50 psi regularly.


----------



## mmacro

*Tach reads off*

My only issue with that is that I can't tell if it's idling at the correct speed... The needle doesn't move when I start it. It only moves once it is in gear. If it read 1,000 turned off and dropped to 700 at idle that would be easy, as you said. But mine sits at about 700 and stays there until I start to give it gas.

So, I wonder if the idle is really the 700 rpm it shows me when I start the motor at idle? Or is it faster or slower.

And then, the same question. Once I'm running and the gague shows me 4,000 rpm... Is it really 4,000 or is it 3,300 rpm?

The big issue is then after I've broken the motor in. It's supposed run about 5,500 rpm, right? So do I look for 6,200 rpm at full throttle since the gague starts out at 700 rpm? Or is it actually reading correctly at 5,500 rpm and if I'm seeing it top out at 6,200 I'm damaging the motor?



joebucko said:


> I wouldn't worry about the tachometer. When my motor is turned off my Tach needle sits at 1000rpm. As soon as the motor is started it reads correctly and idles around 700. As long as yours reads in the 700-750 range at idle I'd bet it is operating correctly.


----------



## yeocokent

mmacro said:


> I need to install my fish finder/chart plotter. I stuck my head up in the CC this morning (picked up the skiff Saturday and took the girls out yesterday).
> 
> There are two unused wires terminated with female plugs... A black and a blue wire. It seems to me that these might be "accessory" wires pre run at the factory.
> 
> Does anyone know what they are?


There are two wires (one hot, one ground) that are for accessories that bypass the main power switch. I don't recall the colors. I wired these into a panel so that I can add accessories to the panel. I put my fishfinder and VHF onto the panel.


----------



## yeocokent

Was out fishing yesterday. You can add me to the list of broken cooler latches. I bet it had been used less than 20 times.


----------



## joebucko

mmacro said:


> My only issue with that is that I can't tell if it's idling at the correct speed... The needle doesn't move when I start it. It only moves once it is in gear. If it read 1,000 turned off and dropped to 700 at idle that would be easy, as you said. But mine sits at about 700 and stays there until I start to give it gas.
> 
> So, I wonder if the idle is really the 700 rpm it shows me when I start the motor at idle? Or is it faster or slower.
> 
> And then, the same question. Once I'm running and the gague shows me 4,000 rpm... Is it really 4,000 or is it 3,300 rpm?
> 
> The big issue is then after I've broken the motor in. It's supposed run about 5,500 rpm, right? So do I look for 6,200 rpm at full throttle since the gague starts out at 700 rpm? Or is it actually reading correctly at 5,500 rpm and if I'm seeing it top out at 6,200 I'm damaging the motor?


I don't know what to tell you. I'll be in my boat Wednesday and I'll try and pay attention to my tach to see how it acts. Wide Open Throttle (wot) range for the Mercury 60hp is 5500-6000 rpm. The over rev limiter kicks in around 6200. It develops maximum HP at 6000 so you want to be able to get as close to that as you can although you'll probably cruise around 5000 rpm. I know it idles around 700-750 according to the manual and that is where my tach says I am. I occasionally hit the 6200 limit but that's no big deal


----------



## prod1944

*2015 Pro 17*

Well guys I waited too long to order my boat. The 2015's will be coming out shortly. 2014 from showroom floor only. In this area they all have the galv. trailer. I wanted the Alum trailer which is advertised as an option. Waiting to see what the price increase will be on the 2015. Whats your thoughts on the alum trailer and galv trailer. Was going to do this about 3 months ago but the finance charges were going to be to high. Going to pay cash now.


----------



## charliel2

*Latches*

Yeo,

I replaced my stock cooler latches with YETI ones ($16). They are better quality, had them on for almost a year now. Been slamming them in the cooler lid every trip and they still look good as new. You can have BPS replace the stock ones under warranty with stock latches but you'll probably be replacing them again soon.


----------



## azkenreid

yeocokent said:


> Was out fishing yesterday. You can add me to the list of broken cooler latches. I bet it had been used less than 20 times.


Mine broke second time out. BPS said they would replace them with Yeti latches off the shelf.


----------



## frankcr

It is no problem to use a valve on the discharge of a centrifugal pump, but restricting the flow on the suction side of a pump is asking for trouble. Hope I read the post wrong.


----------



## mmacro

*Overflowing well..*

I was thinking about a solution for the dreaded overflow... To clarify, I was wondering if adding a pump to the drain line (the overflow tube where the old water leaves the well... Not the line in from the stern).

I looked at the fitting coming out of the well and it seems really small/narrow to keep up with the incoming flow of the pump bringing new water (or the forced created when running on plane). The tube looks almost twice the ID of the ID of 90' fitting coming out of the well.

A float switch that would turn on if the water starts to rise above the outlet and start a 3rd pump to remove water in the wastewater (outflow hose) might work.


----------



## mmacro

*Confused...*

Many posts here say to screw down the inlet fitting to reduce the flow of water into the well... As did the Bass Pro boat staff.

Is this going to be bad for the livewell pump that is OEM?



frankcr said:


> It is no problem to use a valve on the discharge of a centrifugal pump, but restricting the flow on the suction side of a pump is asking for trouble. Hope I read the post wrong.


----------



## Homestead Fl Man

*Pics from south Florida*


----------



## LitUp

*livewell*

I never use my baitwell at all anymore because that is the source of water in hull,atleast it is for me, i have had my boat in the water for two days and only drained a drop or two from the hull if i dont use the baitwell but if i do use it and the boats in the water for a couple hours watch out it will drain water from the hull like winters junk, i usually end up using a Styrofoam cooler to keep my bait alive but i mostly use artificial baits anyway but it sure would be nice to have a working baitwell


----------



## LitUp

*winch*

oh yea and this happend on my way to lake belton couple weeks ago


----------



## panhandlekelly

LitUp said:


> oh yea and this happend on my way to lake belton couple weeks ago


Mine did the same thing. BPS changed it out with a galvanized post and plate, much stronger.


----------



## yeocokent

azkenreid said:


> Mine broke second time out. BPS said they would replace them with Yeti latches off the shelf.


Thanks. I hope they do the same at my local BPS. If not, you could burn through 100 latches in a summer.


----------



## frankcr

*mmacro*, if the valve you are adjusting is in the bait well, it is on the discharge of the pump and can be in the almost shut off condition with no harm. Any valve in the suction line of the pump would restrict flow to the pump.


----------



## joebucko

LitUp said:


> oh yea and this happend on my way to lake belton couple weeks ago


I don't trust any winch column to control my boat when towing. I use it just to retrieve my boat and get it on the trailer. I installed a turnbuckle which I connect to the bow eye and tighten down when traveling. At the same time I release most of the tension on the winch strap so that that any weight is on the turnbuckle. The turnbuckle is secured to the trailer by looping a piece of chain around the tongue and connecting it t the turnbuckle with a shackle.

This arrangement had one additional benefit. I have zero bow bounce when towing.


----------



## Winters97gt




----------



## azkenreid

Winters97gt said:


>


Nice catch! BTW, your trolling motor is mounted exactly as mine is. I can't see a difference.


----------



## Winters97gt

azkenreid said:


> Nice catch! BTW, your trolling motor is mounted exactly as mine is. I can't see a difference.


Thanks! BPS didn't have the right starboard in stock, didn't have it done like they said they would over a week ago, so on my long drive down to SPI from Houston, I called and found out it wasn't installed. They did a quick install with spacers before I pick the boat up, it will be redone.


----------



## azkenreid

Winters97gt said:


> Thanks! BPS didn't have the right starboard in stock, didn't have it done like they said they would over a week ago, so on my long drive down to SPI from Houston, I called and found out it wasn't installed. They did a quick install with spacers before I pick the boat up, it will be redone.


Yeah, I'm living that story right now. My boat's been at BPS for the past two weeks for a bunch of stuff. I dropped it off yesterday again, for the third week. I'm headed to the cooler climes of the Arizona White Mountains for the week. Happily, I'm very close to the BPS in Mesa, AZ. I drive by there twice a day coming and going to work.

I stopped by there today and peeked into the bays. No Mako skiff. Michael the service manager promised me it would be in the bay on Monday as I was next in line. He also promised that my boat would be ready when I get back in town. He knows the date.

I hope that the BSP guys read these forums. A system where they sell guns and ammo up stairs and provide seriously crappy service downstairs seems like a flawed system.


----------



## FlyItAll

joebucko said:


> I don't trust any winch column to control my boat when towing. I use it just to retrieve my boat and get it on the trailer. I installed a turnbuckle which I connect to the bow eye and tighten down when traveling. At the same time I release most of the tension on the winch strap so that that any weight is on the turnbuckle. The turnbuckle is secured to the trailer by looping a piece of chain around the tongue and connecting it t the turnbuckle with a shackle.
> 
> This arrangement had one additional benefit. I have zero bow bounce when towing.


Good solution Joe. I thought about a turnbuckle, but ended up using a Boat Buckle. I just bolted it thru the existing hole at the base of the winch column. Then I cut off the little security strap. No more bow bounce!


----------



## yeocokent

Happy fourth everyone! I am pulling the girl today to clean the bottom and install rod holders (flush mount) and improve the transducer set up. After 2 weeks in the water the growth is getting pretty bad. Probably will put some anti fouling paint on the bottom in the next few weeks as much as I hate to.


----------



## mmacro

Where is everyone mounting their transducer (especially a Stern Saver)? I'm looking for the measurements from the outer stake on the bottom and how far up from the bottom edge? In other words how far over and up?


----------



## joebucko

mmacro said:


> Where is everyone mounting their transducer (especially a Stern Saver)? I'm looking for the measurements from the outer stake on the bottom and how far up from the bottom edge? In other words how far over and up?


I did not measure these locations but you should be able to figure it out from these two pictures. If you don't know, when the Pro17 is on plane the entire transom is out of the water. For a transducer to work when on plane it must be in the water. My 2D regular sonar is mounted on the starboard corner and you can see that it just clears the bottom of the hull. It reads consistently in this position.

The transducer mounted in the center of the transom directly in front of the engine is a large Humminbird SideImaging transducer and can only be mounted in this location if you have a jackplate with at least a 4" setback. When on plane this transducer is completely out of the water to protect it from damage. Side imaging does not work very well past about 8mph so that is not an issue.

If you try and mount a transducer in the center of the transom low enough to skim the water and read while on plane it will likely cause you some real problems because it will create turbulent water which flows directly into the path of the propeller. I know because originally I tried to mount the SI transducer low enough to read while on plane and my prop would blow out.


----------



## DCAVA

FYI fellas, 

Make sure u grease the steering shafts on your skiffs regularly, especially if running salt water. Mine was seized up last Sunday as I launched in Arroyo City; luckily the shop foreman of BPS in Harlingen was coming into the boat ramp and saw me having difficulty. He helped me get the sucker unstuck and I had some Hoppes oil in my tackle box, we were able to fish the afternoon. I had my boys take it to BPS on Monday and there was another 17' skiff there w/ the same problem.


----------



## yeocokent

My FF is located like the last picture above, on the outer part of closer to the strake. I figure that is the cleanest water after examining the hull closely. I do pretty well most of the time. I had to put in several washers on the outside fasteners to make sure it compensated for the slant of the transom.

Also, I second an earlier post to make sure you tighten the lower drain plug beyond finger tight. First time in the water I had water in the hull. This time, the boat was in the water for 2 weeks straight but I tightened the drain plug down extra tight with pliars. No water in the hull at all when I pulled it today. THey really should have just put a traditional brass plug on there.


----------



## arrowhand

picked up my 17 today from BPS in Orlando, what a experience that was.

Last sunday the salesman completely ignored my wife and I for about 45 minutes even with us both in the boat. finally got some help, guy really had no product knowledge as He also said it was prewired for a trolling motor. I knew it wasn't. ordered a plain boat with the 60hp and base trailer-no options. I called earlier this week to find out about a spare, the get ready guy went out and checked my boat and said it had a spare on it, strange I thought. it turns out all there boats have the upgraded trailers, all are stocked into the system incorrectly is what I was told, so I ended up with the upgrade trailer for the price of a spare tire. trailer is galvanized and had a outboard trailer bar on it and a stainless prop also.

looked like the brake calipers have been moved as it looks like it would be very hard for the lines or anything to hit the frame

took it out tonight for a little break in, only got in about 30 minutes before a rain storm hit and am very happy with it. looking forwards to lots of fishing time.

this forum really helped


----------



## scrat

joebucko said:


> I did not measure these locations but you should be able to figure it out from these two pictures. If you don't know, when the Pro17 is on plane the entire transom is out of the water. For a transducer to work when on plane it must be in the water. My 2D regular sonar is mounted on the starboard corner and you can see that it just clears the bottom of the hull. It reads consistently in this position.
> 
> Another thing I did since I only use mine for depth and bottom structure, I turned the sensitity down quite a bit to remove interference when running. It works pretty well at all but wide open.


----------



## yeocokent

arrowhand said:


> picked up my 17 today from BPS in Orlando, what a experience that was.
> 
> Last sunday the salesman completely ignored my wife and I for about 45 minutes even with us both in the boat. finally got some help, guy really had no product knowledge as He also said it was prewired for a trolling motor. I knew it wasn't. ordered a plain boat with the 60hp and base trailer-no options. I called earlier this week to find out about a spare, the get ready guy went out and checked my boat and said it had a spare on it, strange I thought. it turns out all there boats have the upgraded trailers, all are stocked into the system incorrectly is what I was told, so I ended up with the upgrade trailer for the price of a spare tire. trailer is galvanized and had a outboard trailer bar on it and a stainless prop also.
> 
> looked like the brake calipers have been moved as it looks like it would be very hard for the lines or anything to hit the frame
> 
> took it out tonight for a little break in, only got in about 30 minutes before a rain storm hit and am very happy with it. looking forwards to lots of fishing time.
> 
> this forum really helped


 I bypassed the salesman when I ordered mine. I looked at it a few times when I was in BPS. Spent a lot of time researching it on the internets. I then contacted tracker directly from the BPS page and got financing and ordered it to be shipped to BPS Ashland. I picked it up at BPS Ashland and a mechanic went through the routine with me and I was off.


----------



## arrowhand

yeocokent said:


> I bypassed the salesman when I ordered mine. I looked at it a few times when I was in BPS. Spent a lot of time researching it on the internets. I then contacted tracker directly from the BPS page and got financing and ordered it to be shipped to BPS Ashland. I picked it up at BPS Ashland and a mechanic went through the routine with me and I was off.


 wish I went that route, guy who went over the boat with me was good, salesman--pisspoor.

one surprise is the wheels were balanced, even the spare-never expected that. not sure about this spare tire holder-its angled out at the top, looks funny and if I ever have to use it, its got to be a pain to get on and off.

did expect this but was hopeing it would not be true--livewell pump was air locked, going to add a vented loop to it at some point.

siliconed the forward half of the bunks and the boat slides on and off like its on ice


----------



## joebucko

arrowhand said:


> wish I went that route, guy who went over the boat with me was good, salesman--pisspoor.
> 
> one surprise is the wheels were balanced, even the spare-never expected that. not sure about this spare tire holder-its angled out at the top, looks funny and if I ever have to use it, its got to be a pain to get on and off.
> 
> did expect this but was hopeing it would not be true--livewell pump was air locked, going to add a vented loop to it at some point.
> 
> siliconed the forward half of the bunks and the boat slides on and off like its on ice


Congratulations on the new boat. I really enjoy mine. I opted for the 'U' shaped spare tire holder that just clamps around the trailer tongue and holds the spare flat on the trailer. It has worked out very well. The turnbuckle in the picture is used any time I am trailering and I have very little tension on the winch strap hence almost no pressure on the winch column while traveling. The turnbuckle also eliminates any bow bounce when traveling holding the bow securely against the roller.


----------



## racingdc9

Has anyone looked into this micro anchor? I was at BPS this weekend and was told a customer w/ our skiff had one installed but no feedback yet. What do you guys think. It's supposed to handle up to 1500 lbs.


----------



## Winters97gt

I haven't seen that new setup, but I will say the riptide GPS trolling motor is bad to the bone. It held my skiff in 20-25mph wind, with 600 pounds of passengers, full livewell, extra fuel on an outgoing tide where we could fish my honey hole with it's anchor function. And no police(homeland security knows me/my boat on camera) and no coast guard haggle for tying off or anchoring in the channel. You don't need a 24 volt on this boat. It pushed us 2.2mph directly in to the head wind manually.



And some fun back at the bar afterwards.


----------



## atexan

*Madden voyage*

The maden voyage of our new 2014 Pro 17 CC was today. I took the wife and kids to my parents place on Livingston to run the boat through the break in paces. It did not run very well during the 3500 RPM phase but once we were able to run 4500 RPMs and a couple of full throttle spirits, that 60HP merc started to purr. 
The tach crapped out about hour 2 of the break in period so we were winging it the last hour.. That's ok cause I have to have the Bimini top installed and pick up a missing rubber foot for the cooler. I was not impressed with BPS Katy's make ready service. They will get a second chance to make it right. 
Overall I a very pleased with our purchase. My dad was impressed also and he doesn't impress easy. 
New to your forum and I must say thank you. You guys helped a ton in making this purchase.


----------



## Winters97gt

Don't bother taking it back to them. Doug and the crew in Katy are an Fn' Joke. 

Glad you got your new boat! I'm on my 3rd tachometer.


----------



## joebucko

racingdc9 said:


> Has anyone looked into this micro anchor? I was at BPS this weekend and was told a customer w/ our skiff had one installed but no feedback yet. What do you guys think. It's supposed to handle up to 1500 lbs.


As Winters points out if you have an iPilot equipped trolling motor it pretty much eliminates the need for an anchor or stakeout pole. In addition to my iPilot I carry a Stickit fiberglass stakeout pole on my skiff ($70) but haven't used it since getting the iPilot over a year ago. Another even more economical option is the DIY version of the fiberglass stake out pole. This one you can customize any way you want.
http://www.mgs4u.com/shallow-water-...cle&utm_campaign=shallow water anchor article


----------



## yeocokent

joebucko said:


> As Winters points out if you have an iPilot equipped trolling motor it pretty much eliminates the need for an anchor or stakeout pole. In addition to my iPilot I carry a Stickit fiberglass stakeout pole on my skiff ($70) but haven't used it since getting the iPilot over a year ago. Another even more economical option is the DIY version of the fiberglass stake out pole. This one you can customize any way you want.
> http://www.mgs4u.com/shallow-water-...cle&utm_campaign=shallow water anchor article


 Thanks for posting that! I am going to get the camo version for duck hunting this fall. Looks like it will work well and very inexpensive.

On a side note. I had the boat out of the water over the fourth to clean the bottom and when I went to put her back in yesterday I forgot to bring my pliers to tighten the drain plug down. The transom saver bar works perfectly for that. The drain plug tab fits right in the square bar and you can tighten it down real tight.


----------



## mmacro

How are you all mounting Bimini tops? Are you using screws or something like rivnuts? Also, has anyone asked Mako if mounting the tops ourselves voids the warranty? (My dealer hinted that it would)


----------



## atcfisherman

Just courious, but what is so special about this boat that there are 161 pages? I must be missing something.


----------



## flchief

I just mounted a Bimini top 3 days ago-used the screws that came with the kit and some adhesive sealant to help out-so far after 3 days of use no problems. I have a question myself: I am going to put in a seat on the foward deck-where is the best placement? forward of the storage compartment or just aft of it?


----------



## azkenreid

atcfisherman said:


> Just courious, but what is so special about this boat that there are 161 pages? I must be missing something.


You're surprised that boat enthusiasts are sharing information about a common interest? Yes, you are missing something.


----------



## joebucko

atcfisherman said:


> Just courious, but what is so special about this boat that there are 161 pages? I must be missing something.


When this boat first hit the market in early 2012 there was no reliable info about it other than Mako marketing clips. One satisfied owner started the discussion and since then many new owners have contributed. It is now the best source of reliable information on all aspects of the boat...good/bad/ugly. If Mako marketing or customer service was a little more tuned in they would set up a regular forum and canvas these owners for input. That way it would be more organized and potential buyers and new owners could find answers to their questions more easily.


----------



## mmacro

*Bimini top placement?*

Where did you mount it: the inside ledge, or the top raised rail?

I'm just wondering where the best place is to mount it. The inside rail seems to be a space that allows the frame to nest inside the boat. But it's only going into one layer of fibreglass. Would mounting it on the lip let it go thru two layers of the glass and add a backing plate (protects the integrity of the glass/gel coat)?

My wife/girls are very fair-skinned and I need to add the top ASAP to make the days out comfortable for them.

I talked with Mako today via their chat site and they side stepped the questions... "It should not void the warranty" "the gel coat warranty would be voided" "we cannot offer any advice where to mount a Bimini top"... Useless 10 minutes of time with their staff.



flchief said:


> I just mounted a Bimini top 3 days ago-used the screws that came with the kit and some adhesive sealant to help out-so far after 3 days of use no problems. I have a question myself: I am going to put in a seat on the foward deck-where is the best placement? forward of the storage compartment or just aft of it?


----------



## panhandlekelly

flchief said:


> I just mounted a Bimini top 3 days ago-used the screws that came with the kit and some adhesive sealant to help out-so far after 3 days of use no problems. I have a question myself: I am going to put in a seat on the foward deck-where is the best placement? forward of the storage compartment or just aft of it?


I mounted mine aft and am very happy with it.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

joebucko said:


> When this boat first hit the market in early 2012 there was no reliable info about it other than Mako marketing clips. One satisfied owner started the discussion and since then many new owners have contributed. It is now the best source of reliable information on all aspects of the boat...good/bad/ugly. If Mako marketing or customer service was a little more tuned in they would set up a regular forum and canvas these owners for input. That way it would be more organized and potential buyers and new owners could find answers to their questions more easily.


very well put, JB. and i second the motion that Mako REALLY is missing an opportunity to connect with it's entry level boating enthusiasts with this skiff. with the input from this forum subject alone, Mako could be refining and tweaking the Pro Skiff in such a way that would position it as THE GO TO skiff to own in the near shore/large lake category.

and to add my $2 worth some more, the Mako hull reaches almost the real skinny water as well as running dry and soft in the mild to medium chop. it's bare bones ready for end user modification, has a great payload rating for it's size and is priced under 20k with tax for the complete boat/engine/trailer package! Cheers!


----------



## flchief

I mounted it on the Top rail-I tried the inner rail with one side then realized that with my paticular bimini I wouldnt be able to remove the knob fasteners that would allow me to lower the bimini level with the boat for transport and storage. The top rail was plenty wide enough for my mounts and has worked well all around so far. Took me about 1 hour to install with a drill.


----------



## flchief

Thanks! havent seen many pictures of the boat with a chair and was wondering.


----------



## atcfisherman

azkenreid said:


> You're surprised that boat enthusiasts are sharing information about a common interest? Yes, you are missing something.


I'm a boat enthusiast too. I wasn't attacking the thread. I was just wondering why this boat was so special that 161 pages have been talked about yet. I don't see many other boats having that many pages. That's why I asked, nothing more. Gee

In Christ Alone I Place My Trust


----------



## OldManOwen

I purchased the bimini top mentioned earlier in this thread from Amazon and installed it on the outside of the rail. I am not a fan of screws, in my opinion they loosen and pull out over time. I went to ACE and purchased stainless screws and and lock-nuts with a washer undeneath and I am very happy with the way it turned out. I simply marked the holes using the brackets as a template and drilled through the outer rail. The top will never pull through and folds down nicely. I tow it with the top up but stowed in the provided cover and only lower it when it's in the yard with the cover on. I am very happy with the top, I don't think you can beat the $89 price on Amazon. I looked at a Carver and it was going to be over $500!


----------



## arrowhand

^^^do you happen to have link, I know it may be back a few pages but its sometimes hard to go look for something specific in this thread.

has anyone added a hour meter ? if you did can you share some details


----------



## flchief

arrowhand said:


> ^^^do you happen to have link, I know it may be back a few pages but its sometimes hard to go look for something specific in this thread.
> 
> has anyone added a hour meter ? if you did can you share some details


I asked my BPS a year ago during my first service-they told me it was very expensive (500.00) but they would do it if I wanted. I dont know about any other work arounds I am sure they are out there-I just decided to bring it in once a year for regular service.


----------



## OldManOwen

You can get an hour meter for about $100 for just about anything. They stick on or can be screwed on and simply detect the current running through a spark plug wire. They have them at my local BPS and they are commonly used for dirt bikes to keep track of maintenance. The only downside is if not installed when new they just start recording hours from 0, just have your current hours read and write +82 hours (in my case) on the meter so you always know exactly how many hours are on whatever engine you decide needs one!


----------



## azkenreid

atcfisherman said:


> I'm a boat enthusiast too. I wasn't attacking the thread. I was just wondering why this boat was so special that 161 pages have been talked about yet. I don't see many other boats having that many pages. That's why I asked, nothing more. Gee
> 
> In Christ Alone I Place My Trust


OK, sorry for being too stern. I forgive you.


----------



## azkenreid

Well, I picked up my boat at BPS Mesa today. To their credit, they addressed each and every issue with the exception of the bait well air lock. They seem to be stymied by that one. No problem, I can deal with that one.

They installed the Bimini on the top of the gunwale, looks good and has a couple feet of head room standing up.

They installed the transom ladder. Looks good and now I may not drown if I go for a swim.

The replaced both cooler latches with Yeti's from off their shelf, so there is precedent for that.

They installed two keel guards, and that was the only thing they charged me for.

If you recall the guide post debacle, I pointed that out and the tech Joe just grinned. They installed the included guides at the rear and moved mine to the front. No charge. I like that setup. I'm confident that my high school age Nephew can trailer this boat with no trouble. It gets windy here and you see a lot of sideways boats at the ramps.

I added to the work order a "squeal or squeek" from the lower unit at low speeds. Tech said they ran it and couldn't hear it. Talked to the lead tech and he said that is a known issue and not a problem. If it irritates, the solution is to spray some WD-40 at the top of the drive shaft. There is a dust seal there and it can squeal.

That's about it. I'll take some pics this week. I want to document all the mods/installs that I have done.

In the meantime, I am celebrating with this.


----------



## yeocokent

FlatsCatFL said:


> very well put, JB. and i second the motion that Mako REALLY is missing an opportunity to connect with it's entry level boating enthusiasts with this skiff. with the input from this forum subject alone, Mako could be refining and tweaking the Pro Skiff in such a way that would position it as THE GO TO skiff to own in the near shore/large lake category.
> 
> and to add my $2 worth some more, the Mako hull reaches almost the real skinny water as well as running dry and soft in the mild to medium chop. it's bare bones ready for end user modification, has a great payload rating for it's size and is priced under 20k with tax for the complete boat/engine/trailer package! Cheers!


Yes, I agree. I think it is because the hull is fairly unique. When you read the mako reviews and literature you see them marketing the benefits of the hull. However, when I went to consider the boat I wanted to hear real world experiences. Hence, I came here. So why 100+ pages? Probably because of the unique hull design and the need for people to get real world reviews opposed to manufactured reviews you get when you google it. This single thread is probably the most informative source anywhere for that information. When you do web searches you nearly always are referred back to this website. Soooo, thanks everyone for your input on this thread because it helped me to make the decision to get the boat. I have been even happier than expected with my purchase. The hull design is perfect for the bay, rivers, and inlets of the Chesapeake. I am also surprised at how well this boat does even in a pretty moderate chop. I have had her in some pretty rough waters. Where I boat we get a confused sea because you can be fighting a strong tide, wind, and river flow. l didn't expect this boat to handle it that well. I also didn't expect it to be such a dry ride. It also allows me to go back into the inlets in some skinny water to fish the grass. I look forwarded to taking her duck hunting this fall as well. It is a near perfect multi use platform.

Anyway, I learned a lot from reading through the posts on this thread so will post any experiences with the boat that I have that might help others as well.

My only complaint right now is that I don't think the cooler lives up to the reputation they gave it. I might end up just putting a yeti on it and using the cooler as a spare cooler. Oh, and better rod storage. I plan on adding some flush mount rod holders in the stern platform for trolling late summer.


----------



## yeocokent

Forgot to add one comment. The boat really does favor the cat hull style ride more than it does a skiff ride in open waters. It is a good combination of a cat married to a flatbottom skiff style hull. With that being said, watch those sharp turns at WOT!


----------



## mmacro

Got my Bimini top ordered. Found a 4-bow, 8' model that should cover the open deck space, leaving the front and rear casting decks open.

I also got the Lowrance cables run to the CC. The transducer plug was a bear to get thru to the CC.

I think I may pull the multiple 14 ga wires I ran for the accessories and replace them with a 10 ga or larger wire and use busses under the CC for power distribution.

I also think I may get a deep cycle battery and a charging system for my accessories. I have a line on an ICOM 422 VHF, and I'd like to also install a stereo. Combine that with the fact that I like to run the fishfinder without the motor running and I can see some ugly dead battery scenarios happening. The 2-battery system eliminats that probability.


----------



## azkenreid

*Some installs and mods*

Here's some stuff I've done to the boat so far.

Cleaned up the rear harness. I really despise cable ties. The only people I know who use them correctly is the Military. You have to use a tool to install them which nips off the tag end and removes that little razor blade just waiting to cut you or something else. I cut them all off and replaced them with Velcro straps.









Somebody asked for pics of the transom ladder. BPS Mesa (Joe) installed it. We talked about it and I did what I normally do to avoid the law of unintended consequences. I gave him license to install it the way he would do it "if this were his boat." There were two options that we saw. One, top bolts through the transom and another method where somebody here created a flange to go through the top rail. Joe said that he thought he could bolt it through the transom on top and lag bolt the bottom. I was OK with that, but allowed him to be flexible and creative. The top bolts are bolted through and the bottoms are lagged. He did a good job.

















What else? Bimini top. This is the top I have been waiting for. Operating a boat on central Arizona lakes without some shade is not fun, and in some cases dangerous. Finally and for the next trip, some shade.

























More to come in the next post.


----------



## azkenreid

The Bimini is 8X8 and leaves both casting decks unobstructed and has plenty of head room.

Next, some comfort stuff. Had to have some tunes and some news. Installed a Infinity sound system with SeriusXM satellite radio. Added a Sony Walkman with about 8 gigs of tunes. You can plug anything into the audio system from an I phone to a laptop.

























I still need to do the mods on the rod holders. I added some soft horizontal holders. I purchased some hard plastic holders, but when I looked at them and thought about it, I realized that the first time somebody bumped it hard with a knee, there was going to be breakage and damage. I really like these soft holders.

















Here are the trailer post guides. I never would have done it this way, but as it turns out, I like it.









I have some other stuff to pic and still need to install some interior LED lighting. Getting it buttoned up to head up to Saguaro lake Saturday night to catch some pigs.


----------



## Winters97gt

Boat looks really good. Anybody have pictures of rear or front mounted rod holders that are vertical? The gunwall rod holders are nice, but my rods would get soaked, like they do now. I've got a pile of Penn Fierce and Penn Battle reels that have seized up and broke on me, many before I return to the dock.


----------



## flchief

Thank for the pictures-i have scratching my head on the placement of my fire extinguisher-usually dump it in the cooler-didnt want to attach to the inner side of the boat and be an obstruction


----------



## charliel2

*Azken Bimini*

Azken...where did you get your bimini? Part number, price, etc. I like it and need one for mine eventually. Thx.


----------



## panhandlekelly

azkenreid said:


> Here's some stuff I've done to the boat so far.
> 
> Cleaned up the rear harness. I really despise cable ties. The only people I know who use them correctly is the Military. You have to use a tool to install them which nips off the tag end and removes that little razor blade just waiting to cut you or something else. I cut them all off and replaced them with Velcro straps.
> 
> View attachment 1499842
> 
> 
> Somebody asked for pics of the transom ladder. BPS Mesa (Joe) installed it. We talked about it and I did what I normally do to avoid the law of unintended consequences. I gave him license to install it the way he would do it "if this were his boat." There were two options that we saw. One, top bolts through the transom and another method where somebody here created a flange to go through the top rail. Joe said that he thought he could bolt it through the transom on top and lag bolt the bottom. I was OK with that, but allowed him to be flexible and creative. The top bolts are bolted through and the bottoms are lagged. He did a good job.
> 
> View attachment 1499906
> 
> 
> View attachment 1499914
> 
> 
> What else? Bimini top. This is the top I have been waiting for. Operating a boat on central Arizona lakes without some shade is not fun, and in some cases dangerous. Finally and for the next trip, some shade.
> 
> View attachment 1499946
> 
> 
> View attachment 1499954
> 
> 
> View attachment 1499962
> 
> 
> More to come in the next post.


Very nice! I am having a problem understanding how the ladder was bolted throught the transom. Could you possibly add a side view and an inside the transom view of the ladder mount?


----------



## LitUp

*water in hull*

calling all mako skiff owners who have solved their water in hull issue, i thought i had mine fixed by simply not using the baitwell but after yesterdays trip i guess not. Im stumped on this one because i had it in the water for 2 days and not a drop then i went to the lake for 5hours and had about a gallon, neither times did i use the baitwell so my theory is shot i guess. who has fixed there problem completely? and if anyone has any new info on the issue i would appreciate it, thanks 2cool mako owners (best tread on the site)


----------



## Winters97gt

Welcome to the club. Hope you figure yours out.


----------



## yeocokent

LitUp said:


> calling all mako skiff owners who have solved their water in hull issue, i thought i had mine fixed by simply not using the baitwell but after yesterdays trip i guess not. Im stumped on this one because i had it in the water for 2 days and not a drop then i went to the lake for 5hours and had about a gallon, neither times did i use the baitwell so my theory is shot i guess. who has fixed there problem completely? and if anyone has any new info on the issue i would appreciate it, thanks 2cool mako owners (best tread on the site)


Are you cranking the drain plug down way beyond finger tight every time?


----------



## LitUp

yeocokent said:


> Are you cranking the drain plug down way beyond finger tight every time?


 yes i crank it down with a 12'' crescent wrench


----------



## azkenreid

flchief said:


> Thank for the pictures-i have scratching my head on the placement of my fire extinguisher-usually dump it in the cooler-didnt want to attach to the inner side of the boat and be an obstruction


That's a good spot for it. haven't bumped into it once.


----------



## azkenreid

charliel2 said:


> Azken...where did you get your bimini? Part number, price, etc. I like it and need one for mine eventually. Thx.


I ordered the Bimini with the boat. It's an Atwood Model "O" 68X94 with Sunbrella acrylic fabric. $450 installed by BPS.


----------



## azkenreid

"Very nice! I am having a problem understanding how the ladder was bolted throught the transom. Could you possibly add a side view and an inside the transom view of the ladder mount?"

Sure, here you go. I'm not sure yet why it's on a slight angle from the transom line. The angle matches the vertical line to the right. I don't know if that is intentional or not.


----------



## azkenreid

Forgot to say, the tech said he thought he would need about 8" bolts for the top. I didn't have a chance to ask what he actually used. I'll ask next time I see him.


----------



## Jonc

*Hull water..*



yeocokent said:


> Are you cranking the drain plug down way beyond finger tight every time?


Have any of you guys with water issues considered installing an auto bilge? Are there any of you out there that have? I'm betting if so there would be no water providing your drain plugs are sealed as I've said it before, I firmly believe it's getting in there from that crappy little boot not being sealed correctly. I've noticed on numerous occasions water sprays up over the transom when the motor is trimmed all the way down particularly when you throttle up. I bilge mine out several times a day when running the boat and the only time I get water in the hull is when I wash it down as the bilge just can't keep up the volume. Maybe I'm full of it but that's the simple case with my boat.

Jonc


----------



## panhandlekelly

azkenreid said:


> "Very nice! I am having a problem understanding how the ladder was bolted throught the transom. Could you possibly add a side view and an inside the transom view of the ladder mount?"
> 
> Sure, here you go. I'm not sure yet why it's on a slight angle from the transom line. The angle matches the vertical line to the right. I don't know if that is intentional or not.
> 
> View attachment 1502370
> 
> 
> View attachment 1502362


Thank you. That clears things up!


----------



## azkenreid

Here's a couple other things I was working on today.

I added a hydrofoil. This is the Stingray Starfire no drill hydrofoil. It does make a difference getting up on plane. I know there are lots of opinions on this. It's just something I wanted to try, and since it's no drill, I can take it off in five minutes.









Here's the Bimini stowed for trailering. It sits on top of the harness, and that's one of the reasons I took off all the tie wraps and used nice soft Velcro instead. A couple Velcro straps through the aft cleats keep it from bouncing.









I found these strips at Home Depot where they have the shower enclosures. It takes care of that slippy spot. $5 solution.









I searched for and found this tub at Walmart. It's the perfect size to stow under the front deck. I engineered the split bungee which makes access quick and easy. Yes, those are tie wraps, but they were necessary in this case.

















This is where I mount the Yeti cooler. I can rig it for beverages, as a live well or just ice the fish. I don't work for Yeti, but these coolers are amazing. I packed up July 2nd for a trip up north and put 20 pounds of ice in this Yeti 50. I pulled out Monday 5 days later and I still had half ice, half cold water. When you put ice cubes in this cooler, it doesn't start to turn slushy like most. It actually seems to get colder and freezes the cubes into a solid mass. After a couple days it starts to get slushy. I don't know if that violates any law of thermodynamics, but it's my experience.


----------



## azkenreid

One more thing, that Yeti fits nicely behind the main cooler/seat. Tucked into a sleeping bag with your butt on the main cooler, your hips on the Yeti and your feet on the aft deck, it's not a bad place to sleep should you need to.


----------



## joebucko

azkenreid said:


> One more thing, that Yeti fits nicely behind the main cooler/seat. Tucked into a sleeping bag with your butt on the main cooler, your hips on the Yeti and your feet on the aft deck, it's not a bad place to sleep should you need to.


Congratulations on the new boat but you are having entirely too much fun rigging your Proskiff.


----------



## Jonc

azkenreid said:


> "Very nice! I am having a problem understanding how the ladder was bolted throught the transom. Could you possibly add a side view and an inside the transom view of the ladder mount?"
> 
> Sure, here you go. I'm not sure yet why it's on a slight angle from the transom line. The angle matches the vertical line to the right. I don't know if that is intentional or not.
> 
> View attachment 1502370
> 
> 
> View attachment 1502362


Nice job on the new boat! It's been said many times on this thread before that the pro skiff is a great little simple boat that allows the owner the opportunity to custom rig them exactly to you're own personal liking..

Couldn't agree more on the Yeti coolers. I have a 20 roadie that keeps ice all weekend on the boat and it's in my truck the rest of the time. We'll worth the money and they'll last forever.

Jinc


----------



## Winters97gt

Tight lines, everybody! Have a good weekend!


----------



## OldManOwen

azkenreid,
Can you please post pictures and as many details about the "keel guards" as possible? I specifically inquired about these and was told they would not fit right do to the hull shape. I could really use a set of these and any info you could give would be greatly appreciated! Thank you, and great looking boat by the way!


----------



## joebucko

OldManOwen said:


> azkenreid,
> Can you please post pictures and as many details about the "keel guards" as possible? I specifically inquired about these and was told they would not fit right do to the hull shape. I could really use a set of these and any info you could give would be greatly appreciated! Thank you, and great looking boat by the way!


I am interested as well. I bought a set for my boat but after talking with the company was advised to return them. They were concerned that the units would not adhere properly long term because the keels on our boats have a flat spot on the very bottom of the keels. The Keel Guards are designed to fold around a keel that is more V shaped.


----------



## azkenreid

joebucko said:


> I am interested as well. I bought a set for my boat but after talking with the company was advised to return them. They were concerned that the units would not adhere properly long term because the keels on our boats have a flat spot on the very bottom of the keels. The Keel Guards are designed to fold around a keel that is more V shaped.


I'll take some pics this weekend. Going out tomorrow evening to Canyon lake for some toads.


----------



## azkenreid

I just went out with a flashlight and crawled under the boat. The aft end of the keel where the guard ends doesn't flatten out, it squares off. The keel guards I bought are not V shaped before install, they are flat. If I were doing the install I would lay them out in the sun this time of year to make them very soft and pliable. The fore end has been rounded off so that it lays nicely against the keel. I'll take some pics and keep you updated.


----------



## azkenreid

Winters97gt said:


> Tight lines, everybody! Have a good weekend!


Nice! Catch a bunch.


----------



## azkenreid

While under the trailer looking at the keel guards, I found this. It looks to me like voids in the gel coat and possibly in the fiberglass. What is the yellow stuff? Is that the material which is between the hulls? Don't know what this is, but could it be the source of the water between the hulls?

Winters, have you found anything like this on your hull? I have more than one of these spots.


----------



## azkenreid

azkenreid said:


> while under the trailer looking at the keel guards, i found this. It looks to me like voids in the gel coat and possibly in the fiberglass. What is the yellow stuff? Is that the material which is between the hulls? Don't know what this is, but could it be the source of the water between the hulls?
> 
> Winters, have you found anything like this on your hull? I have more than one of these spots.


----------



## frankcr

That should be shown to your dealer, as it appears to be a defect.


----------



## mmacro

*Properly baptised with fish slime...*

I was finally able to get out (3rd time hull in the water) and properly fish the skiff. We found the Rockfish, but they had lockjaw. We were able to throw my cast net and catch some bait... But my livewell has the dreaded air-lock. Had to keep showing it some love and orally prime the well. Backing up didn't prime it either. The 90' cover doesn't have the holes drilled in it. I wonder if it's getting a big air pocket in it? I guess I will have to do the mod to make a pee tube/t-fitting to let the air out.

But a quick relocate and the croaker and white perch were happy to help us put some fish in the cooler. We were drifting a 7 to 20 foot drop off that runs parallel to shore. The magic bait of the day was some 2" Gulp Alive shrimp threaded backwards onto some light jig heads and drifted in the water column. The perch tore them up. Anchoring turned the bite off... It was the drift and the Gulp shrimp combo. Will a Minkota iPilot let you control your drift going with the current along a drop off, without stopping the boat? Otherwise I may have to go low-tech and work out a drag chain.

Last year in the same spot it was a top/bottom rig with hooks tipped with a pinch of shrimp and Gulp bloodworm.


----------



## Winters97gt

azkenreid said:


> While under the trailer looking at the keel guards, I found this. It looks to me like voids in the gel coat and possibly in the fiberglass. What is the yellow stuff? Is that the material which is between the hulls? Don't know what this is, but could it be the source of the water between the hulls?
> 
> Winters, have you found anything like this on your hull? I have more than one of these spots.


Not on my boat, but I already need gelcoat work. I've got cracks developing under the lip of the bow. Very, very hard to see.

An SPI captain and 40+year guide took my boat out of storage in SPI, and took it out yesterday. Livewell off, screwed shut. Got about 1/2-1 gallon of water in the hull. Mine is time related. Got to be tiny hull cracks.


----------



## azkenreid

Spent some time on Canyon lake today and tonight. This is a beautiful lake and holds some really big fish. Didn't keep the biggest ones, just a couple three pounders for dinner tonight.


----------



## azkenreid

Winters97gt said:


> Not on my boat, but I already need gelcoat work. I've got cracks developing under the lip of the bow. Very, very hard to see.
> 
> An SPI captain and 40+year guide took my boat out of storage in SPI, and took it out yesterday. Livewell off, screwed shut. Got about 1/2-1 gallon of water in the hull. Mine is time related. Got to be tiny hull cracks.


I was on the water for 8 hours today and got about 1/4 cup from the lower drain. Technically, there should be zero water there, correct? Anything coming in the boat should end up where the bilge pump is. Whey would there be any water between the hulls?


----------



## Winters97gt

azkenreid said:


> I was on the water for 8 hours today and got about 1/4 cup from the lower drain. Technically, there should be zero water there, correct? Anything coming in the boat should end up where the bilge pump is. Whey would there be any water between the hulls?


In theory, yes. The fitting in the back of the boat under the deck where the throttle, steering and other cables allows access to under the deck. This isn't water tight. So, when I've felt many gallons of water in the boat, I've trimmed the motor away, park the nose up high and you can visibly see a stream of water coming from the lower hull/deck to the bilge area. Turn the bilge on with the nose parked up high at 2800-3200rpm with myself and my passenger in the back to add to the water coming back to the back of the boat. The bilge pumps out water for 3-4 minutes hard. Gallons. Then it stops. No more water comes out of that hole/fitting, so no more water in the hull, right?

Get back to the ramp minutes later on an incline and the hull still has many gallons of water in the hull. It's confused quite a few of us.


----------



## joebucko

mmacro said:


> I was finally able to get out (3rd time hull in the water) and properly fish the skiff. We found the Rockfish, but they had lockjaw. We were able to throw my cast net and catch some bait... But my livewell has the dreaded air-lock. Had to keep showing it some love and orally prime the well. Backing up didn't prime it either. The 90' cover doesn't have the holes drilled in it. I wonder if it's getting a big air pocket in it? I guess I will have to do the mod to make a pee tube/t-fitting to let the air out.
> 
> But a quick relocate and the croaker and white perch were happy to help us put some fish in the cooler. We were drifting a 7 to 20 foot drop off that runs parallel to shore. The magic bait of the day was some 2" Gulp Alive shrimp threaded backwards onto some light jig heads and drifted in the water column. The perch tore them up. Anchoring turned the bite off... It was the drift and the Gulp shrimp combo. Will a Minkota iPilot let you control your drift going with the current along a drop off, without stopping the boat? Otherwise I may have to go low-tech and work out a drag chain.
> 
> Last year in the same spot it was a top/bottom rig with hooks tipped with a pinch of shrimp and Gulp bloodworm.


The iPilot will allow you to control drift speed and direction effectively. I have done it on occasion by positioning the bow properly, setting the Autopilot and then just adjusting my speed a little slower than the oncoming wind to achieve the drift speed I want.


----------



## joebucko

*Vertical Rod Storage*

On my Mako Proskiff I store my rods horizontally when trailering but can only store 4 rods in the vertical position when on the water because that is all the usable rod holders on the console. I wanted more so I added two to my cooler and two Taco clamp on stainless steel to the grab bar. I have the Taco holders set up for trolling but could rotate them vertical if the need arises. 
The cooler mount works great and is super easy to make.

A piece of 1 1/2" x 1/8" thick aluminum angle and two pieces of 1" aluminum flat stock from HomeDepot/Lowes. Riveted the 1" to the angle wth 3/16" rivets and bolted the PVC to the flat stock. Secured the whole thing with a single stainless bolt run through a small aluminum plate sized to fit under the cooler handle. Painted it white and slapped it on the boat. It is VERY secure, convenient and out of the way when driving. 
If you strap your cooler down you could substitute an eyebolt and run your cooler strap through the eye.


----------



## Winters97gt

Thanks Joe! Looks great!


----------



## joebucko

*Rain puddles collecting on boat cover*

One thing that really bugs me is rain puddles collecting on my boat cover. Every time it rained I would end up siphoning a huge puddle off the cover somewhere so I came up with this solution. I made one PVC frame for the front and one for the back of the boat. They work GREAT. Each unit is made from 3/4" PVC, 6 45deg and 4 90deg connectors. They are sized to sit on the inside lip of the gunnel. The highest point on my boat is the console grab rail. The frames are made so that the arches closest to the console are a little higher than the ones on the ends so the cover slopes slightly. No more puddles.


----------



## yeocokent

azkenreid said:


> View attachment 1506449


That is definitely a problem. I would be taking it back. That boat should have never left the factory. Even the guys at bass pro should have caught it and sent it back. I would definitely take it back and not be real happy about it.


----------



## scrat

*Very Impressed*

You oughta go into business! I think I'm going to steal your idea on the rod holders for the ice chest though and modify it to use as the base for a seat back mount for the cooler. Getting old and not being able to lean back once in a while kills the back. Also Where and what typoe of cover did you get for the mako?. I'm also looking to mount a couple of plastic drawers under the bow platform. Probably do this this winter since I don't want to lose fishing time.


----------



## joebucko

scrat said:


> You oughta go into business! I think I'm going to steal your idea on the rod holders for the ice chest though and modify it to use as the base for a seat back mount for the cooler. Getting old and not being able to lean back once in a while kills the back. Also Where and what typoe of cover did you get for the mako?. I'm also looking to mount a couple of plastic drawers under the bow platform. Probably do this this winter since I don't want to lose fishing time.


I got the Carver cover from www.boatcoversdirect.com. I believe they also sell on eBay as ARTICALS. I did not order the standard cover they have for the Mako Pro17. I bought the one 1 size larger to fit an 18' boat because I was concerned that my Minn Kota Terrova trolling motor might stick out a little too much. The cover I ended up with works well and I am going on my 3rd year with it. This company was very responsive and worked with me to get the right one.

My cooler mounted rod holders work very well. I initially thought about mounting on the back of the cooler but realized that I could not open the cooler lid with rods back there so opted for the end mount.


----------



## azkenreid

I told the last two guys that I invited on the boat that I have a strict no shoes policy, especially in high summer when it's just not necessary. Water shoes fine, bare feet fine, street shoes no, so naturally they both showed up with black soled sandals. I just spent two hours scrubbing black marks off the the inside and the front casting deck. Just FYI, I found that Bar Keepers Friend works really well to remove those marks and other stains from the textured gel coat.


----------



## yeocokent

azkenreid said:


> I told the last two guys that I invited on the boat that I have a strict no shoes policy, especially in high summer when it's just not necessary. Water shoes fine, bare feet fine, street shoes no, so naturally they both showed up with black soled sandals. I just spent two hours scrubbing black marks off the the inside and the front casting deck. Just FYI, I found that Bar Keepers Friend works really well to remove those marks and other stains from the textured gel coat.


No offense but that is a given around here. You don't even have to say it.


----------



## azkenreid

yeocokent said:


> No offense but that is a given around here. You don't even have to say it.


Which part? Dumb a$$e$ with street shoes or Bar Keepers Friend?


----------



## azkenreid

yeocokent said:


> That is definitely a problem. I would be taking it back. That boat should have never left the factory. Even the guys at bass pro should have caught it and sent it back. I would definitely take it back and not be real happy about it.


I'm going to stop by with pictures and see what they say. It seems impossible that the tech didn't see this. I stuck my head under to look at the keel guards and this is about all I saw. I see no reason they shouldn't be able to send it to the fiberglass shop for repair.


----------



## yeocokent

Sorry, buddies coming on the boat already know better. Thanks for the bar keepers friend info.

We use a lot of fish bites around here and I spend a lot of time scrubbing red marks from stray fish bites.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*Water in the lower hull cavity issue*

hello all.

i thought i'd share my weekend experience with you. Winters97GT has really documented this scenario.

i had the skiff in the water for @ 72 hrs. straight this past weekend. i re-coated the lower hull drain plug o-ring with vaseline and tightened it down very snug with a pair of Klein linesman pliers. when i got home i put a bucket under the drain and backed off the plug. the hull cavity drained for about 4-5 minutes. i put the plastic bucket which i'll say weighs about a pound on a scale and took a reading. it read 25.6 pounds, so i'll call it 24.6. that translates to about 3 gallons of water in the NON-BILGEABLE area of my hull and in this scenario equals to about 1 gallon of water seepage a day (24 hrs.).

that's def not a good scenario for those interested in floating their skiffs most of the time. and you know, i wouldn't be whining about this issue if only Mako would have set up the bilge to address the lower hull cavity taking on water.

so i, like a few others, am scratching my head on how to make my joyride skiff remain so, and not a sluggish barge after a few days of sitting in water like it was supposedly designed to do! Cheersâ€¦..sort of.


----------



## atexan

joebucko said:


> One thing that really bugs me is rain puddles collecting on my boat cover. Every time it rained I would end up siphoning a huge puddle off the cover somewhere so I came up with this solution. I made one PVC frame for the front and one for the back of the boat. They work GREAT. Each unit is made from 3/4" PVC, 6 45deg and 4 90deg connectors. They are sized to sit on the inside lip of the gunnel. The highest point on my boat is the console grab rail. The frames are made so that the arches closest to the console are a little higher than the ones on the ends so the cover slopes slightly. No more puddles.


Excellent Joe!!

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## joebucko

FlatsCatFL said:


> hello all.
> 
> i thought i'd share my weekend experience with you. Winters97GT has really documented this scenario.
> 
> i had the skiff in the water for @ 72 hrs. straight this past weekend. i re-coated the lower hull drain plug o-ring with vaseline and tightened it down very snug with a pair of Klein linesman pliers. when i got home i put a bucket under the drain and backed off the plug. the hull cavity drained for about 4-5 minutes. i put the plastic bucket which i'll say weighs about a pound on a scale and took a reading. it read 25.6 pounds, so i'll call it 24.6. that translates to about 3 gallons of water in the NON-BILGEABLE area of my hull and in this scenario equals to about 1 gallon of water seepage a day (24 hrs.).
> 
> that's def not a good scenario for those interested in floating their skiffs most of the time. and you know, i wouldn't be whining about this issue if only Mako would have set up the bilge to address the lower hull cavity taking on water.
> 
> so i, like a few others, am scratching my head on how to make my joyride skiff remain so, and not a sluggish barge after a few days of sitting in water like it was supposedly designed to do! Cheersâ€¦..sort of.


I don't have any idea how water is getting into your hulls. One band-aid that has been proposed is a bilge pump into the cavity below the floor. That will pump out accumulating water whether you are running or moored. Another lower cost way to remove accumulating water while under way might be a self draining plug in this lower drain. Another thread on this site mentions it. http://www.diggeranchor.com/Bail-R-Matic.html it might be worth a try.


----------



## FishermanSteve

*Silicon grease*



FlatsCatFL said:


> i re-coated the lower hull drain plug o-ring with vaseline and tightened it down very snug with a pair of Klein linesman pliers.


replace your o ring, then stop by a scuba shop & pickup some silicon grease used for regulator o rings, use that instead as Vaseline is a petroleum product & degrades the o ring rapidly.


----------



## Winters97gt

The O ring isn't the cause


----------



## reelfast

Put in another b pump and call it a day


----------



## FlatsCatFL

reelfast said:


> Put in another b pump and call it a day


I'd love to, but doing so would entail altering the hull liner and surely would void Mako's hull warranty.


----------



## Winters97gt

FlatsCatFL said:


> I'd love to, but doing so would entail altering the hull liner and surely would void Mako's hull warranty.


I was told the same thing by a tracker center here in Houston.


----------



## Jack's Pocket

AHL_1901 said:


> Awesome report. Just you on board?
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2


I run Galveston Bay system in a 16 footer.
This is by no way my first bay rig,started fishing the system with Dad in a 14 foot molded plywood Yellowjacket. Graduated to a 15' Lamar next a 17'
Montauk and now the skiff.
I enjoy the skiff perfect size for a couple seasoned 
salts.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

Another lower cost way to remove accumulating water while under way might be a self draining plug in this lower drain. Another thread on this site mentions it. http://www.diggeranchor.com/Bail-R-Matic.html it might be worth a try

joebucko: i checked out the Bail-R-Matic product that you mentioned. i really like how it works. I'm not sure it has an application for the lower hull cavity drain plug. the LHCDP on my skiff is about 3/4" in dia. and the design keeps the plug from completely separating from the drain housing.


----------



## Winters97gt

Flatscat, where are you talking about putting that plug?


----------



## joebucko

FlatsCatFL said:


> Another lower cost way to remove accumulating water while under way might be a self draining plug in this lower drain. Another thread on this site mentions it. http://www.diggeranchor.com/Bail-R-Matic.html it might be worth a try
> 
> joebucko: i checked out the Bail-R-Matic product that you mentioned. i really like how it works. I'm not sure it has an application for the lower hull cavity drain plug. the LHCDP on my skiff is about 3/4" in dia. and the design keeps the plug from completely separating from the drain housing.


If you have the same Stainless Steel drain plug assembly as I have the plug has a two step thread. First step will allow plug to be loosened enough to drain the hull but retain the plug. Continue unscrewing the plug and it can be completely removed. I take mine out completely on occasion to clean the threads in the drain hole and remove any accumulated debris.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

"Flatscat, where are you talking about putting that plug?"
Winters97gt: maybe in the lower most hull drain plug housing.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

Joebucko: thanks for the lower plug info. I didn't know that the plug could be completely removed. JB, you're a good judge of things mechanical, do you think the bail-o-matic has application for the lower drain?


----------



## joebucko

FlatsCatFL said:


> Joebucko: thanks for the lower plug info. I didn't know that the plug could be completely removed. JB, you're a good judge of things mechanical, do you think the bail-o-matic has application for the lower drain?


For a boat that is getting water in the hull and is not stored on the water I think it would be worth trying. It is a low cost easy install and should allow accumulated water to drain from the hull while underway. If the boat was being stored on the water I'd say no and would opt for an automatic bilge pump while still trying to figure out where the water is getting in.

Eventually you will figure out how the water is entering your boat. Barring a hole in the hull below the waterline my bet is still something going through the transom like the two lower bolts on the engine bracket. If one or both of these were leaking there would be no way to tell. You would have to remove them and thoroughly reseal. If that stopped the water then problem solved if not then the search goes on.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

Joebucko: thanks again for the input, it's always welcome!

"Cleaned up the rear harness. I really despise cable ties. The only people I know who use them correctly is the Military. You have to use a tool to install them which nips off the tag end and removes that little razor blade just waiting to cut you or something else. I cut them all off and replaced them with Velcro straps."

Azkenreid: great idea with the Velcro, my Bimini hits exactly where yours does.


----------



## Jack's Pocket

joebucko said:


> For a boat that is getting water in the hull and is not stored on the water I think it would be worth trying. It is a low cost easy install and should allow accumulated water to drain from the hull while underway. If the boat was being stored on the water I'd say no and would opt for an automatic bilge pump while still trying to figure out where the water is getting in.
> 
> Eventually you will figure out how the water is entering your boat. Barring a hole in the hull below the waterline my bet is still something going through the transom like the two lower bolts on the engine bracket. If one or both of these were leaking there would be no way to tell. You would have to remove them and thoroughly reseal. If that stopped the water then problem solved if not then the search goes on.


My bet would be the cockpit drain plug as I have had quite a few leak through the years. I unscrew the bolt out grease it up real good and screw back into the brass compression washer so I get a 
real tight seal. My Mako is as dry as a powder house .


----------



## Winters97gt

Jack's Pocket said:


> My bet would be the cockpit drain plug as I have had quite a few leak through the years. I unscrew the bolt out grease it up real good and screw back into the brass compression washer so I get a
> real tight seal. My Mako is as dry as a powder house .


Been there, done that. It's not the drain plug or anything on the transom, besides the possibility of it being the bolts for the motor. Most of us that are having water in the hull have resealed everything possible on the transom. Take a look back through this entire thread to see what I mean.


----------



## Jack's Pocket

Winters97gt said:


> Been there, done that. It's not the drain plug or anything on the transom, besides the possibility of it being the bolts for the motor. Most of us that are having water in the hull have resealed everything possible on the transom. Take a look back through this entire thread to see what I mean.


That is a lot of water to be coming in through a motor mount.
Hard to believe that many motors mounted incorrectly after reading the thread. I would tend to think it was coming or spraying over the transom and leaking in around the back deck. 
I know I resealed mine soon as I got it to the house and took off 
that stupid step and marine tex the holes.


----------



## azkenreid

frankcr said:


> That should be shown to your dealer, as it appears to be a defect.


I stopped by BPS mesa today and showed them a couple pictures. One of the sales guys said he has seen that on the Tahoes, but never on the Makos. Have to send it to the local fiberglass shop for repair.


----------



## azkenreid

Winters97gt said:


> Been there, done that. It's not the drain plug or anything on the transom, besides the possibility of it being the bolts for the motor. Most of us that are having water in the hull have resealed everything possible on the transom. Take a look back through this entire thread to see what I mean.


You could try this.









Now that's funny right there.


----------



## mmacro

*Really?*

I think as large of a defect as that I would be asking for a new hull. You should not have to have your boat "repaired" as a result of a massive factory defect.
I'd give Tracker a call directly, email whomever you talk to photos of the defect and raise a fuss with them.


azkenreid said:


> I stopped by BPS mesa today and showed them a couple pictures. One of the sales guys said he has seen that on the Tahoes, but never on the Makos. Have to send it to the local fiberglass shop for repair.


----------



## latex

Someone asked awhile back if anyone had a picture of the skiff with the wrap. My friend took this picture and sent it to me. Its the pro skiff 16 I think it looks pretty sweet!


----------



## Winters97gt

That does look good. Might copy cat ya cause there are literally 100 of them in the water I fish. I'd probably opt to take off the "pro skiff" part off.


----------



## azkenreid

I'm thinking about adding a second rod holder to the starboard side of the CC, then building a sort of candelabra out of PVC that will hold five to seven rods. Anybody tried this yet?


----------



## azkenreid

mmacro said:


> I think as large of a defect as that I would be asking for a new hull. You should not have to have your boat "repaired" as a result of a massive factory defect.
> I'd give Tracker a call directly, email whomever you talk to photos of the defect and raise a fuss with them.


I'm inclined to let the fiberglass shop repair it. After talking to BPS I realized that the defect is cosmetic (and barely that because I am the only one who can see it when the boat is trailered.) I have a good hull that doesn't leak like some others. I don't want to roll the dice on a new hull. If Tracker won't give Winters a new hull due to his problems, they aren't going to even talk to me over a cosmetic issue. It was a little shocking at first, but now that I've calmed down a bit, it doesn't seem that big a deal.


----------



## Jack's Pocket

azkenreid said:


> I'm inclined to let the fiberglass shop repair it. After talking to BPS I realized that the defect is cosmetic (and barely that because I am the only one who can see it when the boat is trailered.) I have a good hull that doesn't leak like some others. I don't want to roll the dice on a new hull. If Tracker won't give Winters a new hull due to his problems, they aren't going to even talk to me over a cosmetic issue. It was a little shocking at first, but now that I've calmed down a bit, it doesn't seem that big a deal.


Get some Marine Tex cover it be stronger than new and keep fishing. I always leave the anchor hanging on the middle cleat 
when drifting. Took off one day and put both flukes on a custom 
stainless steel anchor through the bottom of a 17 foot 
Montauk. Failed the IQ test and paid the stupid tax on that fishing trip. After I got it dried out filled the holes with Marine Tex and went back to fishing. I know that patch had held for twenty years and still going strong when I sold the boat.


----------



## azkenreid

Jack's Pocket said:


> Get some Marine Tex cover it be stronger than new and keep fishing. I always leave the anchor hanging on the middle cleat
> when drifting. Took off one day and put both flukes on a custom
> stainless steel anchor through the bottom of a 17 foot
> Montauk. Failed the IQ test and paid the stupid tax on that fishing trip. After I got it dried out filled the holes with Marine Tex and went back to fishing. I know that patch had held for twenty years and still going strong when I sold the boat.


Nice, thanks for the info. Years ago, in my youth I was anchored at the Humbug creek raft-up at Pleasant lake in AZ. After way too much alcohol and debauchery we decided to head to the ramp. I powered up that 28' pontoon and navigated slowly through dozens of boats all rafted-up and made my way into the main lake. When I got on plane and looked behind me, I saw an anchor dragging on 50' of line. To this day I have no idea how I got out of there without snagging a single thing. The next day I decided to sell that boat. I'm better now.


----------



## atexan

*2nd Trip observations*

We took our 2014 Pro 17 to Lake Texana this weekend. Used a $1.99 tube of plumbers grease on the O-Ring plug, tightened it with a wrench 1/4 turn and left it alone all weekend. Pulled both plugs before the left the campground and maybe a 1/4 cup of water came out. Since I was following the boat on the way home (I was pulling the camper), I saw two times where a small stream of water came out of the steel plug after the wife accelerated from a stop light. Nothing I consider abnormal considering the live well issue.

Just like everyone else it seems, my live well overflows when I run at high speed for any length of time. And after BPS checked it, the tach still bounces all over the place then stops working after 10 minutes.

On the positive side, I do love running all over the lake all weekend long on 3 gallons of gas. I love the flat decks to hang my feet into the water when its hot. Three of us move all over the boat with no fear. Then only having to use dish soap and a water hose to clean up.

Lots of posts about the live well issue. What's the cure? Can BPS fix it?


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*some pics*

here's some recent mod pics.

-a funky work around to make the blocked rod holder useful and a pic of an automatic bilge pump switch recently installed.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*another pic*

next pic


----------



## scrat

Would the small opening on the back deck allow water into the lower hull? I don't think this would be the source of a lot of water but... I'll try to upload pics. They are right in the seam of the back deck on both sides.


----------



## Jack's Pocket

That is exactly where I sealed.
I know on the bay more water than you think splashes up 
on the transom and back deck. Now that be a 16 foot issue.
Mine is dry I have even taken the tractor front end loader and picked the tongue, might get a cup.


----------



## mmacro

*Air stone/pump*

Has anyone added an air stone to their livewell? I was thinking that adding a source of oxygenated water would be helpful when I'm up on plane and can't run the livewell at full capacity and when anchored so I don't kill my main battery. It shouldn't t be too much of a drain on the deep cycle auxiliary battery I intend to install for my fish finder and other accessories.

My pump only wants to run water when I'm stopped. The water scoop on the transom is not drilled to vent air pockets... So that could be an issue. And I also get a bad case of air-lock on the water-out side of the pump... So adding the vented t-fitting seems to be on my to-do list.


----------



## Jack's Pocket

scrat said:


> Would the small opening on the back deck allow water into the lower hull? I don't think this would be the source of a lot of water but... I'll try to upload pics. They are right in the seam of the back deck on both sides.


I don't know if the picture is good enough quality to see my back deck.


----------



## kkbamafan

*Water issue on mako skiff*

Are you taking on a lot of water in your hull? I sure am. Bps said they fixed it by resealing the lower drain plug frame. Well it didn't work. Took on way to much water today. Not sure where water is coming from. Any advice?


----------



## latex

Is the mako proskiff hull suppose to be 100percent foam filled?


----------



## kkbamafan

No. There is running grooves in it.


----------



## joebucko

kkbamafan said:


> Are you taking on a lot of water in your hull? I sure am. Bps said they fixed it by resealing the lower drain plug frame. Well it didn't work. Took on way to much water today. Not sure where water is coming from. Any advice?


Are you tightening the lower drain plug enough? When I first got my boat 2 years ago I was getting water in the hull every time out. It turned out that just hand tightening the lower drain plug was not engaging the 'O' ring enough. Next trip out I used a small adjustable wrench to tighten in more and my water problem vanished. Now I never drain more than a tablespoon of water unless I'm fishing in the rain.


----------



## frankcr

I am going to make a dumb statement, but everyone does know that these boats are not self bailing and need the cockpit drain plug properly installed when using the boats. If water is allowed to stand in the floor, expect it to enter the inner hull through the boot in the cable chase.

There might be too much concern about the lower drain plug and not enough about the cockpit drain plug. I have had the snap plugs leak often enough that I only use one which is adjustable.


----------



## Jack's Pocket

frankcr said:


> I am going to make a dumb statement, but everyone does know that these boats are not self bailing and need the cockpit drain plug properly installed when using the boats. If water is allowed to stand in the floor, expect it to enter the inner hull through the boot in the cable chase.
> 
> There might be too much concern about the lower drain plug and not enough about the cockpit drain plug. I have had the snap plugs leak often enough that I only use one which is adjustable.


I will agree with that 100% the snap drain plugs are a joke.
Another thing I don't use my livewell it is just an ice box in the front.
That makes me wonder about hose connections in the chase as well.
The way the hull is designed if you get a cup of water in the boat it is
going to the chase.


----------



## scrat

Ditto on the adjustable plug. I get less then 1 cup from the lower drain hole but I don't leave it in the water. I don't use my baitwell often at all - not because it leaks, it works fine. But because I get tired of opening the seat every time.


----------



## frankcr

There have been a lot of complaints about those boots, but what would one recommend as a replacement? They are not going to be completely waterproof with cables and hoses of different sizes run through them in the real world.

Our last boat was a liner type offshore design with cable chases run between the liner and the hull. You could not get to the five through hull fittings without major surgery, and this was a cause of concern. A broken hull fitting would guarantee a hull full of water. When you were out of sight of land, you thought about things like that. There was a bilge pump installed, but it would be doubtful it would be of much use if a fitting failed. 

The only recourse was to drive a tapered plug in the damaged thru hull fitting which is standard practice on larger boats without metal shut off valves at each fitting thru hull fitting. Marine stores stock various size teak plugs for this type of emergency.

Our boats being foam filled would probably not hold enough water under the liner to make a great difference in performance. 

These hulls are not designed for full fledge open water use, so things necessary for those boats differ from what our boats are designed to do. I think people are making too much about a little water in the hull.


----------



## Puddle_Jumper

I run oxygen al the time when I use live bait


----------



## Jonc

frankcr said:


> There have been a lot of complaints about those boots, but what would one recommend as a replacement? They are not going to be completely waterproof with cables and hoses of different sizes run through them in the real world.
> 
> Our last boat was a liner type offshore design with cable chases run between the liner and the hull. You could not get to the five through hull fittings without major surgery, and this was a cause of concern. A broken hull fitting would guarantee a hull full of water. When you were out of sight of land, you thought about things like that. There was a bilge pump installed, but it would be doubtful it would be of much use if a fitting failed.
> 
> The only recourse was to drive a tapered plug in the damaged thru hull fitting which is standard practice on larger boats without metal shut off valves at each fitting thru hull fitting. Marine stores stock various size teak plugs for this type of emergency.
> 
> Our boats being foam filled would probably not hold enough water under the liner to make a great difference in performance.
> 
> These hulls are not designed for full fledge open water use, so things necessary for those boats differ from what our boats are designed to do. I think people are making too much about a little water in the hull.


I'm with you frankcr in that it's inevitable you're going to get some water period although I think winters boat may be the exception. It's amazing how much water comes up over the transom in these boats if you don't have it trimmed correctly. Most are not looking over their shoulders when driving but it can be a whole bunch believe me as it happens frequently. Too much water in... And their you have it. It's inevitable on these boats and I for one believe there's nothing we can do about it outside of an auto bilge like flatscat installed. Fish, have fun, and drain it out when you're done.

Jonc


----------



## frankcr

Love to get my hands on Winters boat, but he is a fur piece down the road from me as they say. When he finds his problem, it will be an ah shucks moment, as most nagging problems have a simple source.

We have the tiller, so we do not have the problems some report. Water over the transom is immediately noticed with a tiller, so you take immediate steps to correct it.

We do need to fill in the hollow made for the cable chase though, as it is frequently full of water and a housekeeping mess. With the cable chase cut out, it would take some work to prevent intrusion of water into the inner hull.

I am with you, Jonc, as boating is a wet sport and getting water where you do not want it is part of the game. If it does not put you in danger, don't worry about it. At least now that we do not go offshore, we don't worry about a flood of green water deciding to get in the boat.

These boats do exactly what they are designed to do and are probably the best buy on the market. They stretch a gallon of gas and eat river chop for breakfast.


----------



## joebucko

Jonc said:


> I'm with you frankcr in that it's inevitable you're going to get some water period although I think winters boat may be the exception. It's amazing how much water comes up over the transom in these boats if you don't have it trimmed correctly. Most are not looking over their shoulders when driving but it can be a whole bunch believe me as it happens frequently. Too much water in... And their you have it. It's inevitable on these boats and I for one believe there's nothing we can do about it outside of an auto bilge like flatscat installed. Fish, have fun, and drain it out when you're done.
> 
> Jonc


Jonc
I don't recall ever having water over my transom due to motor trim before I added the jack plate. With the addition of my jack plate I am certain I never will. The only time I can remember getting any water over my transom was when I powered off my trailer one day. 
Is the water you are talking about crawling up the motor shaft when it is trimmed all the way in?


----------



## Jack's Pocket

A lot water sprays up on my back deck if the motor isn't trimmed right.
That is why I sealed the back deck. It is mainly on the port side I figured it had to do with the prop rotation hitting the tunnel turbulence


----------



## Jonc

joebucko said:


> Jonc
> I don't recall ever having water over my transom due to motor trim before I added the jack plate. With the addition of my jack plate I am certain I never will. The only time I can remember getting any water over my transom was when I powered off my trailer one day.
> Is the water you are talking about crawling up the motor shaft when it is trimmed all the way in?


Exactly JoeB. At least on my boat, it only happens when the motor is trimmed all the way in and I'm guessing perhaps at half throttle. It throws a small inverted rooster tail if you will but if you bump the trim just a bit it solves the problem. For lack of a better analogy it's kinda like the vibration you get at a certain speed if your front end on your car is out of alignment. For those of you taking on water it's at least worth the test to see if perhaps this happens on your boats as well.

Jonc


----------



## yeocokent

frankcr said:


> Love to get my hands on Winters boat, but he is a fur piece down the road from me as they say. When he finds his problem, it will be an ah shucks moment, as most nagging problems have a simple source.
> 
> We have the tiller, so we do not have the problems some report. Water over the transom is immediately noticed with a tiller, so you take immediate steps to correct it.
> 
> We do need to fill in the hollow made for the cable chase though, as it is frequently full of water and a housekeeping mess. With the cable chase cut out, it would take some work to prevent intrusion of water into the inner hull.
> 
> I am with you, Jonc, as boating is a wet sport and getting water where you do not want it is part of the game. If it does not put you in danger, don't worry about it. At least now that we do not go offshore, we don't worry about a flood of green water deciding to get in the boat.
> 
> These boats do exactly what they are designed to do and are probably the best buy on the market. They stretch a gallon of gas and eat river chop for breakfast.


Same here. I have always had old boats so chasing down leaks became commonplace. It can be real annoying. There are only a few places on these boats that leaks could be an issue. I bet on one of the through hull fittings and/or drain plug. I would pull them all off and seal again with 4200 or 5200.

I also agree on the boot. My biggest issue is that it is at nearly the lowest point on the deck. I don't have any problems when running and I do run in some really rough water. My issue is when it is at my dock and we get a downpour. I had the entire back hull fill up with water after a couple of downpours. Nothing more than an annoyance and I will solve it with a float switch for the bilge. However, I might try come up with a better idea than the boot. Maybe some sort of PVC pipe that I can seal around the hole and then raise 6 inches or so to keep the water intrusion point a bit higher. Just thinking aloud on that one. There has to be a solution.

On a side note, I did get my VHF antenna installed on the side of the console. Surprisingly it is not an annoyance and doesn't get in the way of the rod holders (I put it on the port side) On the inside I put a backing plate made of a piece of 3/4 marine ply that I had as scrap from another project. I oversized it on the lower part so I can screw a BUS panel onto it.

I also installed two flush mount stainless rod holders on each corner of the aft deck. This wasn't hard but was a little tricky because the deck is thick at points. The rod holders are 1/2 on the thin fiberglass and 1/2 on the thicker cored part. I went trolling yesterday and they worked well. Plus can use them when bottom fishing and drifting.


----------



## yeocokent

What are you guys getting done for the 20 hour service? I am a bit past 20 hours and just replaced the lower unit oil.

The manual doesn't say anything about a 20 hour service. I am just curious what others are getting done at 20 if anything?


----------



## joebucko

Jonc said:


> Exactly JoeB. At least on my boat, it only happens when the motor is trimmed all the way in and I'm guessing perhaps at half throttle. It throws a small inverted rooster tail if you will but if you bump the trim just a bit it solves the problem. For lack of a better analogy it's kinda like the vibration you get at a certain speed if your front end on your car is out of alignment. For those of you taking on water it's at least worth the test to see if perhaps this happens on your boats as well.
> 
> Jonc


Interesting. A little water on the rear deck should not be a big problem but if there is a way for this water to enter the boat between the liner and the hull where they overlap to form the lip on the transom it could be. 
Have you ever noticed any significant water from your hull drain after running your boat with the engine trimmed this way?


----------



## frankcr

There is no question that the low mounting of the boot is a problem. Water on the deck can find its way into the inner hull unless the cable chase is sealed from the inner hull.


----------



## yeocokent

Yep, it just doesn't make sense to put a hole that will drain water below at the lowest point in the deck. It is nearly designed to allow water below. I will save that fix for a winter project.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*More water in the lower hull thoughts*

"However, I might try to come up with a better idea than the boot. Maybe some sort of PVC pipe that I can seal around the hole and then raise 6 inches or so to keep the water intrusion point a bit higher".

Yeocokent:
We're thinking alike on this angle. This is going to be my next attempt to suppress water intrusion in the lower hull cavity. I'm going to foam (great stuff flexible foam) the s*** out of that rear rigging orifice. With my blue latex gloves on, lol, I'm gonna shape the foam finish point until it's well above the water line at which point the auto-bilge should kick in.

I'm also thinking about replacing the OEM LHC drain plug with a 1/2" brass or stainless one to better accept the BAIL-R-MATIC gizmo that Joebucko suggested a few posts back.


----------



## azkenreid

Winters97gt said:


> Been there, done that. It's not the drain plug or anything on the transom, besides the possibility of it being the bolts for the motor. Most of us that are having water in the hull have resealed everything possible on the transom. Take a look back through this entire thread to see what I mean.


Winters, I was talking to the sales guy at BSP a few days ago. I generically described the problem you are having and told him at this point I would be demanding a new hull. He agreed and indicated that Tracker would do it. Is that something you've considered? Seems to me you are going to have to lawyer up and force them to make it right.


----------



## reelfast

You're solution is simple. Sell this thing. Buy a 1980ish Mako 17' and spend $5k making it new. Buy a 1997ish 2 stroke yamaha outboard with low hours and there you go!


Now you're Bullet Proof!


----------



## Jonc

joebucko said:


> Interesting. A little water on the rear deck should not be a big problem but if there is a way for this water to enter the boat between the liner and the hull where they overlap to form the lip on the transom it could be.
> Have you ever noticed any significant water from your hull drain after running your boat with the engine trimmed this way?


Good question JoeB but I keep my boat on a covered lift station all season so it's next to impossible to check for water until I pull it in the fall.

Jonc


----------



## Jack's Pocket

reelfast said:


> You're solution is simple. Sell this thing. Buy a 1980ish Mako 17' and spend $5k making it new. Buy a 1997ish 2 stroke yamaha outboard with low hours and there you go!
> 
> Now you're Bullet Proof!


As long as you bring and a bar of soap fished out of one for years.
It belonged to my fishing partner one of the wettest
boats I ever fished out of. You were going to get wet and take a shower might as well take advantage of it. Winter time my buddy would call saying lets go fishing, want to use my boat or yours.
The reply was the same every time lets take the Montauk.


----------



## LitUp

*Trolling motor*

Just curious if anyone had considered puting a transom mount trolling motor on their boat, im wondering how much the trolling motor preformace would suffer.

LitUp


----------



## Jonc

LitUp said:


> Just curious if anyone had considered puting a transom mount trolling motor on their boat, im wondering how much the trolling motor preformace would suffer.
> 
> LitUp


I'd highly advise you not to do it as the weight of the motor along with the batteries will be a nightmare... I initially installed just my two trolling motor batteries under the stern deck against Joeb's advice and found ou the hard way. That Joe is just too **** smart for his own good...

Jonc


----------



## LitUp

Jonc said:


> I'd highly advise you not to do it as the weight of the motor along with the batteries will be a nightmare... I initially installed just my two trolling motor batteries under the stern deck against Joeb's advice and found ou the hard way. That Joe is just too **** smart for his own good...
> 
> Jonc


Good Call


----------



## Freshwater Pirate

*Fuel gauge*

New to the forum and new Mako 16 pro owner. Pick it up Tuesday. First thing I've added was Minn Kota RTSP with Ipilot. Next horizontal rod holders, a must I figure for fly guys.

Sure this has been covered but when I started reading the thread I made it probably to page 35 before the adult ADD kicked in, has anyone installed a fuel gauge with a sending unit?

Love the thread


----------



## joebucko

Freshwater Pirate said:


> New to the forum and new Mako 16 pro owner. Pick it up Tuesday. First thing I've added was Minn Kota RTSP with Ipilot. Next horizontal rod holders, a must I figure for fly guys.
> 
> Sure this has been covered but when I started reading the thread I made it probably to page 35 before the adult ADD kicked in, has anyone installed a fuel gauge with a sending unit?
> 
> Love the thread


Welcome to the ProSkiff club.
I have the Pro17 w/merc60 and haven't had any reason to add a fuel gauge. I have two 6gal tanks but only carry one in the boat because the rig just sips gas. Closest thing to a fuel gauge is a wooden stick I made and marked increments on from 1-6. I stick the tank when I get home and usually refill to the 6 gal mark. The most gas I have ever added was 3 gallons.


----------



## Jack's Pocket

Freshwater Pirate said:


> New to the forum and new Mako 16 pro owner. Pick it up Tuesday. First thing I've added was Minn Kota RTSP with Ipilot. Next horizontal rod holders, a must I figure for fly guys.
> 
> Sure this has been covered but when I started reading the thread I made it probably to page 35 before the adult ADD kicked in, has anyone installed a fuel gauge with a sending unit?
> 
> Love the thread


I have a 16 with the 40 Merc.
Friday I ran 14 to 15 miles total on Galveston bay
burned a couple gallons at the most.


----------



## Freshwater Pirate

That is good to know! Thanks


----------



## reelfast

Jonc said:


> I'd highly advise you not to do it as the weight of the motor along with the batteries will be a nightmare... I initially installed just my two trolling motor batteries under the stern deck against Joeb's advice and found ou the hard way. That Joe is just too **** smart for his own good...
> 
> Jonc


\

Lithium Ion batteries are smaller and lighter. More $$$ too, but they get the job done without the size and weight


----------



## Winters97gt

LitUp said:


> Just curious if anyone had considered puting a transom mount trolling motor on their boat, im wondering how much the trolling motor preformace would suffer.
> 
> LitUp


Man, I really would rethink that one. This boat is very temperamental to weight.


----------



## Winters97gt

azkenreid said:


> Winters, I was talking to the sales guy at BSP a few days ago. I generically described the problem you are having and told him at this point I would be demanding a new hull. He agreed and indicated that Tracker would do it. Is that something you've considered? Seems to me you are going to have to lawyer up and force them to make it right.


I've thought about it, for sure. I appreciate it.


----------



## azkenreid

Quick survey:

Do you put your bilge drain plug on the inside or the outside?


----------



## frankcr

My trolling motor is on the stern, but I would not put one there again.


----------



## yeocokent

azkenreid said:


> Quick survey:
> 
> Do you put your bilge drain plug on the inside or the outside?


Normally I put a brass plug on the outside. I have used that rubber plug thingie that comes with the boat once on the inside. It worked well even though it is cheap.

Also, if you forget to put that plug in all the water will drain out on plane. ......or so I'm told.


----------



## yeocokent

Freshwater Pirate said:


> New to the forum and new Mako 16 pro owner. Pick it up Tuesday. First thing I've added was Minn Kota RTSP with Ipilot. Next horizontal rod holders, a must I figure for fly guys.
> 
> Sure this has been covered but when I started reading the thread I made it probably to page 35 before the adult ADD kicked in, has anyone installed a fuel gauge with a sending unit?
> 
> Love the thread


Welcome. It never occurred to me install a sending unit. I installed them on other boats and it is a simple task. However, the portable tanks we have do not have a hookup for a sending unit. You would probably need to get a tank with a hookup.


----------



## Jack's Pocket

azkenreid said:


> Quick survey:
> 
> Do you put your bilge drain plug on the inside or the outside?


Inside.
I have had to pull the plug on several occasions 
through the years, when I got caught.
Got caught by a squall line back in the late 70's early 80's I still had my Lamar. Pulled the plug and was running the bilge pump. This was one bad line packing 40 to 50 mph winds. 
We were running for Moses Lake and protected water.
I know a bunch ran for the dike six or seven got killed 
as their boats got tossed on the rocks.


----------



## EMAXXBUDIES

After three years of owner ship I have only run into two problems with our boat. One was that the deck had loads of spider cracks in it. The second was that the spider cracks led to what would become a soft spot in the deck which is covered under our warranty. I am one of the lucky ones for now I have not had any of the water problems in the hull as some of the other members have had. So after 3 years and 170 hours this is how my boat is today. And still more to come eventually.


----------



## frankcr

Hopefully whoever glasses the boat for you will do a good enough job to prevent further problems.


----------



## joebucko

*Mako Proskiff with 4Blade prop Spitfire or Trophy Plus*

I tried a Solas Amita 4blade 13P propeller on my Pro17skiff/60hp mercury to see how it handled. I have been running a Powertech NREB 13P stainless 3 blade. As I expected the 4 blade gave me a better hole shot and mid-range cruise but I lost maybe 1-2 mph on the top end at 34-35mph. My WOT is right at 5800rpm with the 4blade.

Just wondering what the performance characteristics of the Mercury 4 blade props are? If you have a Pro17/60hp with either a Trophy Sport or Spitfire please let me know what numbers you are seeing: WOT rpms and speed.
Thanks


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*threaded machine screw inserts*

hello, all.

has anyone tried installing threaded machine screw inserts into the top deck floor. i'm interested in putting a leaning post/seat on the skiff and want to be able to unscrew the unit from the deck when necessary.


----------



## Jonc

FlatsCatFL said:


> hello, all.
> 
> has anyone tried installing threaded machine screw inserts into the top deck floor. i'm interested in putting a leaning post/seat on the skiff and want to be able to unscrew the unit from the deck when necessary.


I get the concept flatscat but without some type of backing material under the deck I don't believe you have enough substrate there to get a good bite. The weight of your body rocking back and forth I believe would be too much for the thin fiberglass deck on these boats. I installed (3) screws on each of my leaning post legs and also sealed each one with 5200 and it's rock solid. As I mentioned in an earlier post, the leaning post opens up much room in the stern and still allows for storage underneath and accessories such as rocket launchers, etc. our boats are really designed to operate nicely while standing and the leaning post concept makes that concept pretty safe.

Jonc


----------



## prod1944

*2015 mako*

Finally pulled the trigger and ordered a 2015 today. Can not get the alum trailer anymore. Optional trailer is galv. with alum wheels, brakes, folding tongue, spare tire and torsion suspension ( what ever that is ). Ordered extra tank and stainless prop. Price increase on basic boat, motor and trailer is $400.00. And now the fun begins with ordering and preparing to add mods that are in this blog. Lobster season will open this week and snook season is just around the corner. The one thing I never see discussed is gas, ethanol or no. This board is great!!!


----------



## azkenreid

prod1944 said:


> Finally pulled the trigger and ordered a 2015 today. Can not get the alum trailer anymore. Optional trailer is galv. with alum wheels, brakes, folding tongue, spare tire and torsion suspension ( what ever that is ). Ordered extra tank and stainless prop. Price increase on basic boat, motor and trailer is $400.00. And now the fun begins with ordering and preparing to add mods that are in this blog. Lobster season will open this week and snook season is just around the corner. The one thing I never see discussed is gas, ethanol or no. This board is great!!!


Nice, congratulations. You'll have fun working on this boat. It really does lend itself to creativity. Please let us know about your experiences with the bait well.


----------



## azkenreid

FlatsCatFL said:


> hello, all.
> 
> has anyone tried installing threaded machine screw inserts into the top deck floor. i'm interested in putting a leaning post/seat on the skiff and want to be able to unscrew the unit from the deck when necessary.


I have a leaning post on the bow deck. When I pull the post I have just a flush mounted plate. Are you trying to eliminate the plate?


----------



## joebucko

prod1944 said:


> Finally pulled the trigger and ordered a 2015 today. Can not get the alum trailer anymore. Optional trailer is galv. with alum wheels, brakes, folding tongue, spare tire and torsion suspension ( what ever that is ). Ordered extra tank and stainless prop. Price increase on basic boat, motor and trailer is $400.00. And now the fun begins with ordering and preparing to add mods that are in this blog. Lobster season will open this week and snook season is just around the corner. The one thing I never see discussed is gas, ethanol or no. This board is great!!!


I have been running regular gasoline with ethanol ever since I got my boat with zero problems. I was adding a Stabil ethanol product to my tank but stopped early this year realizing that I run through enough gas during the season that it is always fresh. In the winter I will add fuel stabilizer just to be on the safe side as the boat will only be running about every three weeks. If I were storing the boat I'd just empty the tank and run the engine dry.


----------



## prod1944

*bait well*

Going to run the bait well as is. If it doesnt perform will do the air lock mod. Hoping that they did something different on the 2015. Told two different sales people in Miami to look at this BLOG. Look at what is wrong and what is right. Talked about the bait well, water in the inner hull, poor design of the rubber boots at each end of the wire chase. Talked to a Mako design engineer at the Feb boat show in Miami about the issues I read about. Probably fell on deaf ears!!!!. What ever I do that might be an improvement I will post with pictures. I have to say it again that this is a great site with a lot of knowledge.


----------



## Winters97gt

"Same boat" as Joe. I'm at 200 hours now, since we have been running it all day almost everyday for the last 5-6 weeks. Standard 87 octane with no stabilizer. Motor runs just as good as right after it was broke in, actually better(besides the higher density altitude in the summer).


----------



## prod1944

*fuel*

Thanks Joebucko. More than a dollar difference from ethanol and straight gas. Want to fish 2 too 3 times a week. Don't want to go to the poor house doing LOL. Semi retired and 5 miles from biscayne bay in Miami. Quick access to the blue on flat days and a lot of skinny water really close by.


----------



## prod1944

*fuel*

Thanks Winters97gt. 
Got BJ'S gas close by with the best price. I know about your water in the hull issue and talk to Miami sales people and and their service manager. Also talked to Mako Design Engineer at boat show. They kind of talked around it like they didn't want to address it since it wasn't my boat.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

azkenreid said:


> I have a leaning post on the bow deck. When I pull the post I have just a flush mounted plate. Are you trying to eliminate the plate?


yeah, i guess my train of thought was to eliminate the plate if i could determine that it would be structurally sound and hold up over the long haul. but, I'm really more about function than aesthetics, so a backing plate is def not a deal breaker.


----------



## Winters97gt

prod1944 said:


> Thanks Winters97gt.
> Got BJ'S gas close by with the best price. I know about your water in the hull issue and talk to Miami sales people and and their service manager. Also talked to Mako Design Engineer at boat show. They kind of talked around it like they didn't want to address it since it wasn't my boat.


It's quality control. Anything mass produced will result in some that have defects. I'm not surprised by Mako or Tracker dodging the questions.

The boat is great little boat besides that. It doesn't do anything great for it's size, but does most things well. Fuel burn cruising at 30mph is hard to beat.


----------



## MightyBiscuits

*Long time listener, first time caller*

First post on 2cool, but I have been a lurker for a long time. Thank all of you who have contributed to this thread. Read all 175-76 pages over the last week and I have learned a ton about not just the Mako, but about boat ownership and operation in general.

I live in Austin, TX and have spent most of saltwater days in West Bay of Matagorda wade fishing. I have fished from Blue Box to Greens probably 30-40 times in the last 8 years. I had the best kind of boat you can have, one that belonged to friends. I fished out of an old 94 El Pescador and a 2002 Gulf Coast 220. Both great boats for the waters we were fishing. I have had a couple kids, remodeled 2 houses in the last 4 years, and just built a house from the ground up, so fishing has all but died for me. I tried kayaking at the coast about 6 or 7 times, but it was a lot of work to fish areas I had little knowledge of and I really miss being on the water with an engine humming and the wind in my face.

I am looking at the Mako Pro Skiff 17 because it is one of the few boats I have found new for under 20 grand that could possibly suit my needs. 5-6 years ago you could buy a Baby Cat from Donny over at Tran Sport for $19500 with a 90 Tohatsu and a couple bells and whistles. Those things are $27.5 k bare bone now (Petroleum market has screwed us all I guess).

Anyway, I am looking for a boat that I can take to the coast and get into West Bay and fish my old spots, and be able to haul my family around on Lake Bastrop or Fayette or other Central Texas lakes just to cruise around on the boat and do a little fishing. My kids are young (3 & 4) so I didn't want to go with a self bailing flats style boat that has no gunnels because I need to keep the kids in boat when navigating the lakes.  Chances are I will be fishing the coast with only one or two buddies.

I am a novice boat captain, I could always get us back in or out if needed, but I rarely drove the boats, because they belonged to someone else. I am concerned with the draft of this boat, being able to make it out to the South Shore Line with the tide out. I could beef my skills up on the lakes here, but the bay system is a whole other beast. I can't imagine this boat is any worse in terms of draft than that old El Pescador, but it had 175 on the back and could blow out of the sticky stuff when needed.

My plan would be to keep it anchored in a little deeper water (18" plus) and just wade to the real skinny stuff. I also thought about taking my 10ft tarpon kayak along for fun to get into the back lakes from time to time when the weather was right.

My questions are these:

1. Anyone else fished the south shore line of West Bay Matagorda or POC in one of these little boats? 
2. Anyone else wade fish in Texas out of this Mako? 
3. I have never drift fished in my life, but how many salt water guys consider a trolling motor a must have?
4. Anyone shuttled a kayak in this boat?
5. I never use live bait, so is there a way to completely shut off everything in the livewell so that no water enters or exits? I would prefer it not even be there, just have it as extra dry storage.
6. I don't really like the console, I would love the console to be a little taller, as I am used to standing when piloting and it seems like a slightly bent reach when standing. I am 6'1". I would love to have a little leaning post like Jonc has with a cooler underneath. Maybe even a little backrest pad for comfort. Any thoughts?

Winters, I know you have a ton of Texas coast experience, I have never fished the LLM or SPI in my life (always wanted to do a Baffin Trip for those monster trout) , have you ever fished the middle coast in your boat?

Thank you all again for your ideas, thoughts and comments.

Tight Lines!


----------



## Jack's Pocket

I drift fish Trinity, East, Lower Galveston and West Bay.
That said I consider a troll motor a must, I have a 16 foot and run 
it all over the bay's. Realistically IMO you need a couple feet of water 
minimum to motor out. The only way I drive is standing up.
One of the first things I did was take out that fake Yeti and get a 100 quart
igloo. I slide it to the back when I am under way, then under the steering wheel when drifting. Makes a huge difference getting that mounted monstrosity out ofthe way.


----------



## Jonc

MightyBiscuits said:


> First post on 2cool, but I have been a lurker for a long time. Thank all of you who have contributed to this thread. Read all 175-76 pages over the last week and I have learned a ton about not just the Mako, but about boat ownership and operation in general.
> 
> I live in Austin, TX and have spent most of saltwater days in West Bay of Matagorda wade fishing. I have fished from Blue Box to Greens probably 30-40 times in the last 8 years. I had the best kind of boat you can have, one that belonged to friends. I fished out of an old 94 El Pescador and a 2002 Gulf Coast 220. Both great boats for the waters we were fishing. I have had a couple kids, remodeled 2 houses in the last 4 years, and just built a house from the ground up, so fishing has all but died for me. I tried kayaking at the coast about 6 or 7 times, but it was a lot of work to fish areas I had little knowledge of and I really miss being on the water with an engine humming and the wind in my face.
> 
> I am looking at the Mako Pro Skiff 17 because it is one of the few boats I have found new for under 20 grand that could possibly suit my needs. 5-6 years ago you could buy a Baby Cat from Donny over at Tran Sport for $19500 with a 90 Tohatsu and a couple bells and whistles. Those things are $27.5 k bare bone now (Petroleum market has screwed us all I guess).
> 
> Anyway, I am looking for a boat that I can take to the coast and get into West Bay and fish my old spots, and be able to haul my family around on Lake Bastrop or Fayette or other Central Texas lakes just to cruise around on the boat and do a little fishing. My kids are young (3 & 4) so I didn't want to go with a self bailing flats style boat that has no gunnels because I need to keep the kids in boat when navigating the lakes.  Chances are I will be fishing the coast with only one or two buddies.
> 
> I am a novice boat captain, I could always get us back in or out if needed, but I rarely drove the boats, because they belonged to someone else. I am concerned with the draft of this boat, being able to make it out to the South Shore Line with the tide out. I could beef my skills up on the lakes here, but the bay system is a whole other beast. I can't imagine this boat is any worse in terms of draft than that old El Pescador, but it had 175 on the back and could blow out of the sticky stuff when needed.
> 
> My plan would be to keep it anchored in a little deeper water (18" plus) and just wade to the real skinny stuff. I also thought about taking my 10ft tarpon kayak along for fun to get into the back lakes from time to time when the weather was right.
> 
> My questions are these:
> 
> 1. Anyone else fished the south shore line of West Bay Matagorda or POC in one of these little boats?
> 2. Anyone else wade fish in Texas out of this Mako?
> 3. I have never drift fished in my life, but how many salt water guys consider a trolling motor a must have?
> 4. Anyone shuttled a kayak in this boat?
> 5. I never use live bait, so is there a way to completely shut off everything in the livewell so that no water enters or exits? I would prefer it not even be there, just have it as extra dry storage.
> 6. I don't really like the console, I would love the console to be a little taller, as I am used to standing when piloting and it seems like a slightly bent reach when standing. I am 6'1". I would love to have a little leaning post like Jonc has with a cooler underneath. Maybe even a little backrest pad for comfort. Any thoughts?
> 
> Winters, I know you have a ton of Texas coast experience, I have never fished the LLM or SPI in my life (always wanted to do a Baffin Trip for those monster trout) , have you ever fished the middle coast in your boat?
> 
> Thank you all again for your ideas, thoughts and comments.
> 
> Tight Lines!


Nice job on your due diligence! I believe I spent at least 4 months researching boats as well before I decided on my 16 and this thread was invaluable in my decision making process. Quick thought on your leaning post question... We're about the same height and when under way I'm upright with my legs at a slight angle and my feet up against the console. Doing so allows your legs to act somewhat like a shock absorber in waves and it's a very comfortable and safe ride with the leaning post. It's an automatic thing to stand that way as completely upright is just too spooky at higher speeds.

That monstrosity cooler (great analogy) reminds me of sitting behind the wheel of my dads 58 chevy when i was a little kid and it's a completely different boat getting that piece of **** off the deck. I have a real yeti 20 that I strap under my leaning post and it has 5 times the ice retention than our fakeyeti units. Good luck in your quest and welcome back to fishing and boating!

Jonc


----------



## MightyBiscuits

Jonc,

Thanks for the advice! How much did you have to invest in your custom leaning post if you don't mind me asking?


----------



## Jack's Pocket

This is how I set up my 16 for drifting. 
Add's a lot of room just cleaning out that fake cooler.
Have a new Tempress seat ordered for the front, lets just
say another stupid tax.


----------



## Jonc

MightyBiscuits said:


> Jonc,
> 
> Thanks for the advice! How much did you have to invest in your custom leaning post if you don't mind me asking?


 You know I'm not certain but I believe it was around $300 and it was the only one I could find that was small enough to fit our boats without having it custom made. I purchased it on E-Bay and noted the brand several pages back and so far its held up perfectly. If you want to take the time to flip back thru the pages they may still have some available.

jonc


----------



## MightyBiscuits

Thanks Jonc and Jack. I appreciate the info and always love to pics of different setups. I wonder if I am the only guy dumb of enough to get out of the perfectly good boat and wade? Just the way I learned to fish the coast. Jack, my brother in-law lives in League City and I have given some thought to learning the Galveston bay system because I know I would have a partner to fish with down there. I may have to PM you about some guidance on where to launch and general areas to fish that most folks know about. ( i would never ask someone for their honey hole)


----------



## Jack's Pocket

MightyBiscuits said:


> Thanks Jonc and Jack. I appreciate the info and always love to pics of different setups. I wonder if I am the only guy dumb of enough to get out of the perfectly good boat and wade? Just the way I learned to fish the coast. Jack, my brother in-law lives in League City and I have given some thought to learning the Galveston bay system because I know I would have a partner to fish with down there. I may have to PM you about some guidance on where to launch and general areas to fish that most folks know about. ( i would never ask someone for their honey hole)


Anytime
Could be beneficial to both as the clan is planning a trip to Matagorda later this year.
Oldest boy fishes it some. We are just looking to do something different.
Lets the wife play with all the little vermin grandkids that cost me more than the kids did. 
My first trout came out of Jack's Pocket when I was 5.
My dad was Jack and had a heck of a fishing camp off of Jacks Pass. 
Dad would have been a 100 this year.


----------



## joebucko

joebucko said:


> I tried a Solas Amita 4blade 13P propeller on my Pro17skiff/60hp mercury to see how it handled. I have been running a Powertech NREB 13P stainless 3 blade. As I expected the 4 blade gave me a better hole shot and mid-range cruise but I lost maybe 1-2 mph on the top end at 34-35mph. My WOT is right at 5800rpm with the 4blade.
> 
> Just wondering what the performance characteristics of the Mercury 4 blade props are? If you have a Pro17/60hp with either a Trophy Sport or Spitfire please let me know what numbers you are seeing: WOT rpms and speed.
> Thanks


Ran the boat today with two people and full fishing gear load. The 4 blade propeller definitely has more power. I recorded the same performance numbers as I did with just me in the boat.

Still looking for feedback on the Mercury 4 blade propellers Spitfire or Trophy Sport (or any other brand). I'd really like to get me WOT rpm slightly above 6000rpm. Currently just barely making 5800.


----------



## Winters97gt

Hey Joe, how was the holeshot?


----------



## OldManOwen

Joe,
I only have the 40 HP with the factory 4 blade. Right now the best I can do is 5800 RPM however when the weather was cold (near or below freezing) I was able to easily reach 6000 RPM and would have to throttle back ever so slightly. Summertime the best I can do is 24/25 MPH however in winter I can reach 27/28, the 40HP might exaggerate this more being slightly under-powered for the boat. I'm sure you know the engine will perform better in the cooler dense air, just thought I would share my experience.


----------



## Winters97gt

The fastest I've recorded with the 3 blade vengeance on the 60 loaded in 45* air is 38.4mph at 6200-6250rpms. However, the holeshot has always been less than desirable.


----------



## charliel2

*Rod holder changeout*

Had one of my factory rodholders break last week. I've had some plastic Attwood 30 degree inserts in the garage for a while from another project a few years back.

http://s15.photobucket.com/user/charliel2/media/IMG_20140804_175620_205.jpg.html

http://s15.photobucket.com/user/charliel2/media/IMG_20140806_184956_5641.jpg.html


----------



## OldManOwen

Charlie2,
Those look so much better to me than the black ones! I like black but it gets nasty looking so quickly. Can you tell if the diameter is smaller where the rod drops in? My rods flop all around in the Mako ones and it drives me crazy. Good looking fix bud.


----------



## joebucko

Winters97gt said:


> Hey Joe, how was the holeshot?


The hole shot is very good with the 4blade. Frankly I was surprised with the additional power on the top end. As I said I recorded the same top end speed with either 1 or 2 people. The biggest thing I noticed was the reduction in ventilation and subsequent rpm spike that I was getting with my Powertech 3blade stainless. The Solas Amita 4 is probably the least expensive 4 blade prop you can get for this engine at about $106 delivered. The Amita has obvious cup on the blade tips and is very grippy.  As OldManOwen points out performance should improve when the temperature begins to drop.


----------



## joebucko

OldManOwen said:


> Charlie2,
> Those look so much better to me than the black ones! I like black but it gets nasty looking so quickly. Can you tell if the diameter is smaller where the rod drops in? My rods flop all around in the Mako ones and it drives me crazy. Good looking fix bud.


1 1/4" pvc solves the rod flopping around issue http://2coolfishing.com/ttmbforum/showthread.php?t=416841&highlight=mako+pro+skiff&page=2

Surprising how well this works and how cheap it is.


----------



## CShan

Hey guys, I'm new to the thread and forum, but I've been reading through and there is a lot of great information. I'm heavily considering the 17' with the 60 for my first boat and have a couple questions (sorry if they have been asked and answered already). Is there any advantage to where and when you buy it? Ex: Bass Pro vs another marine place, fall vs winter vs summer?

Let me know if y'all have any advice.

Thanks!


----------



## yeocokent

CShan said:


> Hey guys, I'm new to the thread and forum, but I've been reading through and there is a lot of great information. I'm heavily considering the 17' with the 60 for my first boat and have a couple questions (sorry if they have been asked and answered already). Is there any advantage to where and when you buy it? Ex: Bass Pro vs another marine place, fall vs winter vs summer?
> 
> Let me know if y'all have any advice.
> 
> Thanks!


Hi CShan, they seem to run incentives in the winter early/spring. They had a cash back offer or lower percentage rate financing last winter. It would make a good first boat. Very little to worry about on it and they seem to get more and more of the bugs ironed out every year. I bought a 2014 and don't have some of the issues I see on earlier models. Good luck to you.


----------



## Jack's Pocket

CShan said:


> Hey guys, I'm new to the thread and forum, but I've been reading through and there is a lot of great information. I'm heavily considering the 17' with the 60 for my first boat and have a couple questions (sorry if they have been asked and answered already). Is there any advantage to where and when you buy it? Ex: Bass Pro vs another marine place, fall vs winter vs summer?
> 
> Let me know if y'all have any advice.
> 
> Thanks!


I have owned a lot of rigs through the years running Galveston 
Bay from a jon boat to a Whaler.
Is it a perfect bay rig? No. Is a pretty dang good bay rig? Yes.
Health issues of a very very bad back and what I could handle
made me look at the little rig. That is the reason I am not out right now looks like another round of surgery is in the cards. It is about moderation IMO with this rig it does a lot of things well. IMO if they would make the little boat a foot and a half wider I would go buy a new one tomorrow.


----------



## OldManOwen

CShan,
My advice is NOT to buy it at Bass Pro Shops, find a local dealer. I guess you could get lucky with customer service but we didn't. Be SURE and get the 60HP and go slow on the upgrades. Tracker financing is a joke in my opinion, they would not even approve us! The wife and I went to our local bank and financed it 100% the same day for 4%. Have fun and be sure to post up pictures!


----------



## Jonc

CShan said:


> Hey guys, I'm new to the thread and forum, but I've been reading through and there is a lot of great information. I'm heavily considering the 17' with the 60 for my first boat and have a couple questions (sorry if they have been asked and answered already). Is there any advantage to where and when you buy it? Ex: Bass Pro vs another marine place, fall vs winter vs summer?
> 
> Let me know if y'all have any advice.
> 
> Thanks!


I purchased my boat from an independent marine dealer in Michigan and they had the same deals and incentives as BPS and outstanding customer service during and after the sale. In many instances the smaller local guy is more apt to display excellent customer service qualities for beyond what you receive from the big boys. Just my two cents..

Jonc


----------



## arrowhand

need some pictures if possible in detail on how the minn kota quick release puck is postioned. working on mounting my batteries now and just want to see others before I drill those holes into the deck.

thanks


----------



## Jonc

arrowhand said:


> need some pictures if possible in detail on how the minn kota quick release puck is postioned. working on mounting my batteries now and just want to see others before I drill those holes into the deck.
> 
> thanks


is this what you had in mind?


----------



## Jack's Pocket

Mine came from a local dealer as well.


----------



## CShan

Thanks for the advice. I'll look around in the San Antonio and Corpus areas for local places that sell Makos.


----------



## arrowhand

Jonc said:


> is this what you had in mind?


perfect, thank you.


----------



## Freshwater Pirate

Picked up my pro 16 a week ago and love it! No water anywhere it shouldn't be and perfect for my son and I. I did check the cooler and its going back for a replacement. Looks almost exactly like yours....75% of the bottom is completely free of insulation.

Went to pick up the boat (brand new 2013) and was just about to take delivery and my salesman said "I have some bad news". There was a small crack in the gel coat well above the water line. Told me there were no more 2013 anywhere and the 2014's were more money and wasn't one available within 500 miles. He told me they would give me $200 gift card to their store. We finally agreed on a $600 gift card and they fixed the crack. I couldn't find it after getting the boat back. I now have $600 dollars of new rods and tackle. The dealer and my salesman have been stand up all the way.

Couldn't be happier with my purchase and most importantly my son loves it and is getting hooked on fishing.

Tight lines!


----------



## frankcr

Gel coat is extremely brittle and cracks easily. As long as the glass under it is not damaged, it serves to waterproof it and provides a finished appearance.

You evidently got a nice deal with that purchase. Enjoy your boat.


----------



## wag1551

joebucko said:


> Ran the boat today with two people and full fishing gear load. The 4 blade propeller definitely has more power. I recorded the same performance numbers as I did with just me in the boat.
> 
> Still looking for feedback on the Mercury 4 blade propellers Spitfire or Trophy Sport (or any other brand). I'd really like to get me WOT rpm slightly above 6000rpm. Currently just barely making 5800.


 I have a Trophy and got the following last summer:

_WOT 
30.3 knots (34.9 MPH) at 6,000 rpm 
with about an 8 mph tail wind and 6" to 12" chop. 
and about 500 lbs of passenger and gear_


----------



## joebucko

wag1551 said:


> I have a Trophy and got the following last summer:
> 
> _WOT
> 30.3 knots (34.9 MPH) at 6,000 rpm
> with about an 8 mph tail wind and 6" to 12" chop.
> and about 500 lbs of passenger and gear_


Thanks Wag,
I believe you are running the Mercury 60hp. Is your Trophy a 13Pitch propeller?


----------



## wag1551

Yes, it is 13P and it is a Trophy _Spor_t, 4-blade. I was all fired up to replace it with a 3-blade but now I'm not so sure.

I sure appreciate you sharing all your R & D.


----------



## Winters97gt

wag1551 said:


> Yes, it is 13P and it is a Trophy _Spor_t, 4-blade. I was all fired up to replace it with a 3-blade but now I'm not so sure.
> 
> I sure appreciate you sharing all your R & D.


If you're seeing those speeds I'm pretty sure that I'd leave it be. I might have you by 1mph with a similar load, but I doubt my 3 blade 13 pitch has the holeshot yours does.


----------



## CShan

Does anyone have any specific recommendations for where to buy a Mako from anywhere from San Antonio to Corpus?


----------



## Winters97gt

CShan said:


> Does anyone have any specific recommendations for where to buy a Mako from anywhere from San Antonio to Corpus?


I'll sell you mine for 10k tom. I'm in San Antonio right now heading to SPI in the morning.


----------



## CopanoCruisin

Waypoint Marine on Sout Padre Island Drive Is the local Corpus Christi Mako dealer.


----------



## CShan

I'll check out Waypoint. I might wait till later this year so maybe I can get a deal.

Winters, thanks but no thanks. I'm hoping that they will have solved some of the issues for the new ones. Are you looking to get a new one or just get away from the makos?


----------



## Winters97gt

There is also a tracker in New Braunfels I believe. You have BPS in Boerne as well.


----------



## LitUp

CShan said:


> Does anyone have any specific recommendations for where to buy a Mako from anywhere from San Antonio to Corpus?


Do not go to the basspro in San Antonio it has the worst customer service I have ever seen, I won't even shop there anymore due to tracker marines garbage service, I can elaborate but there is not enough space

Litup


----------



## yeocokent

I just called basspro for my 20 hour service. Now I have always had older boats and have done nearly all the work myself so this going through a service dept is a bit new to me. So I called and told the service dept that I needed to bring the mako in for its 20 hour service (I am probably actually around 30 or more). The service guy says "go ahead and bring her in, we have about a 1-2 week backup right now". Not sure what I expected but that wasn't the answer I was expecting. I think I will go ahead and do the 20 hour service myself and take her in over the winter for a 100 hour service. I already changed the outdrive fluid anyway.


----------



## azkenreid

yeocokent said:


> I just called basspro for my 20 hour service. Now I have always had older boats and have done nearly all the work myself so this going through a service dept is a bit new to me. So I called and told the service dept that I needed to bring the mako in for its 20 hour service (I am probably actually around 30 or more). The service guy says "go ahead and bring her in, we have about a 1-2 week backup right now". Not sure what I expected but that wasn't the answer I was expecting. I think I will go ahead and do the 20 hour service myself and take her in over the winter for a 100 hour service. I already changed the outdrive fluid anyway.


That's the same answer get at BSP in Mesa, AZ. If you don't know somebody or blow somebody you are not getting quick service.


----------



## charliel2

*Service*

Any shop that tells you to drop your boat off for an oil change and they'll get to it in a couple weeks is being run by complete idiots. It's not that hard to schedule customers. The shop is just lazy or inept. And if they're really that backed up then they need to seriously think about hiring help.

I am very thankful my local BPS Service Department (Destin-Tim Worsham) is managed well. My service is handled just like an oil change in my car. I call for service, they offer the next available time and we schedule it. They have always been able to get me in for service within a 4 or 5 days, even during the summer. I bring my boat in at the agreed upon time, go inside the store and shop for a bit. By the time I browse around and make a couple purchases the service is complete.

I did have to leave my boat overnight once but that was due to a warranty part having to be shipped overnight.


----------



## joebucko

charliel2 said:


> Any shop that tells you to drop your boat off for an oil change and they'll get to it in a couple weeks is being run by complete idiots. It's not that hard to schedule customers. The shop is just lazy or inept. And if they're really that backed up then they need to seriously think about hiring help.
> 
> I am very thankful my local BPS Service Department (Destin-Tim Worsham) is managed well. My service is handled just like an oil change in my car. I call for service, they offer the next available time and we schedule it. They have always been able to get me in for service within a 4 or 5 days, even during the summer. I bring my boat in at the agreed upon time, go inside the store and shop for a bit. By the time I browse around and make a couple purchases the service is complete.
> 
> I did have to leave my boat overnight once but that was due to a warranty part having to be shipped overnight.


You are a fortunate man Charlie,
The Grapevine Tx BassPro store does exactly Yeocokant's BassPro store does. I took mine in this winter(their slow time) and it was there for two weeks for something that should have taken 4 hours max. I even tried to get them to put me on the schedule and I'd drop the boat off the day of service but no dice. Thank goodness I can do most of the required services myself.


----------



## yeocokent

Do you guys know what the service is for the 20 hour to keep warranty valid. I figure it is oil change, lower unit change, along with filters? The manual doesn't even mention it and I need to order a service manual.

On a side note that motor is running like a top. Just wish we had a few more hp but I am getting around 33 mph at wot on calm water.


----------



## charliel2

*BPS Service*

Make sure you fill out those feedback cards. They should give you one everytime you are in for service. When enough people complain it will get fixed.


----------



## prod1944

*Poor Service*

Your right Charlie12, feedback counts. I am a service manager at a car dealership in Miami and God forbid that it should take two hours to change oil, rotate the tires and give the car and inspection. I end up giving away free oil changes or what ever. Good service in any business is customer retention. I don't know the boat business but it sure as hell doesnt take 4 or five days to change fluids and filters. Very poor management and poor attitude. I just ordered my boat a week ago. So far sales and questions I have had for the service department have been answered like they care. I am in Miami and it can be pretty rough here but these guys have treated me like the way they would want to be treated. Hope things don't go south when I take delivery of the boat LOL!!!!


----------



## FlatsCatFL

hello all. 

i feel like I'm missing something. the merc owners manual does not mention any services needed for the first 100 hrs. or 1 yr. so what gives with the early servicing?


----------



## arrowhand

got out last night to check out the minnkota with I pilot---WOW, that thing is amazing, love the anchor lock feature, don't think I will ever need to toss a anchor overboard again. I got the 80lb 24v model. should work real good out in Tampa bay


----------



## arrowhand

question--last night I noticed that the prop has play on the shaft--as in it will move about a 1/8" along the shaft, the nut is tight-wont go any tighter. its a stainless prop if that makes any difference. but is this normal or am I missing a washer or something.

thanks


----------



## joebucko

arrowhand said:


> question--last night I noticed that the prop has play on the shaft--as in it will move about a 1/8" along the shaft, the nut is tight-wont go any tighter. its a stainless prop if that makes any difference. but is this normal or am I missing a washer or something.
> 
> thanks


The slight play in the propeller is nothing to worry about. The Mercury propellers for this small gear case use a special Reflex hub not the regular Flo-Torq hubs mercury uses for larger engines. The hub is designed to allow slight movement of the prop on the shaft. It apparently eliminates the 'chunking' sound you get when shifting into gear. It will also sacrifice itself if you hit something hard thus saving the lower unit/shaft and possibly the propeller.


----------



## arrowhand

thanks Joe, wanted to make sure all was good before really going out with it.

hope the weather is decent tomorrow morning-headed out with my daughter for a little trout fishing


----------



## clcase

*Tracker in New Braunfels?*

Discouraged by the feedback I'm hearing about BPS in San Antonio, particularly on the service side. Has anyone had any experience with Tracker in New Braunfels?


----------



## prod1944

*having fun*

Don't have the boat yet but have placed orders for gps/ fishfinder lowrance hds 7 gen2, front cleat that JoeBucko put on his boat, stern saver, and tie down for bow of boat. Ordered vhf hand held with gps/dcs, spending money and rapidly running out having fun. Waiting for boat to figure out where I will add rod holders but already have ideas. Will add saltwater minn kota I pilot, close the center console in. I will build a tray to hold the battery in the center of the front deck similar to what I saw for the trolling motor on this blog. Will add bimini top last. Like a kid in a toy store. Will Post pictures when have boat and mods are done. Thanks for all the information and hope to contribute soon. Fishing, shrimping, blue crabbing and lobster soon!!!!! Yeaaaa!!!


----------



## frankcr

BP owns Mako and sells the boats as a store brand, so there is no place else in my area of Georgia to buy one. As such, you are dealing with a store where this is but one more product that they have for sale. We are lucky here as the marine group are pretty good at what they do. Evidently that is not universal. It is like the Firestone stores or Sears in the past with store brands.

They do produce an economical rig at a very fair price. We enjoy ours.


----------



## FlyItAll

*Help with Excessive Trailer tire wear*

Hey guys, I have the 17 footer with the optional aluminum trailer and Trail America tires (ST175/80D13 rated for 1350 lbs at 50 psi). The tires were at 35 psi when I picked up the boat so I left them at 35. After less than a 1,000 miles I started to notice wear on the inside edge of both tires. I haven't hit potholes or anything and the axle looks straight and I can't detect any damage to the trailer hardware. I increased the pressure to 50psi, but the wear pattern continues to get worse. I probably have less than 4k miles on it now and the inside edge of both tires is nearly bald and the wear extends very heavy for 2/3 of the way across the tire. Have any of you experienced this or do you have any suggestions?


----------



## Winters97gt

Your tires weren't balanced. Read back and mine were shot in less miles than that. Doug at Katy Bass Pro didn't offer to help or fix the issue when I took the boat by and told them. Ended up buying new trailer tires out of my own pocket. Typical Tracker quality control and managers not caring about their customers.


----------



## joebucko

FlyItAll said:


> Hey guys, I have the 17 footer with the optional aluminum trailer and Trail America tires (ST175/80D13 rated for 1350 lbs at 50 psi). The tires were at 35 psi when I picked up the boat so I left them at 35. After less than a 1,000 miles I started to notice wear on the inside edge of both tires. I haven't hit potholes or anything and the axle looks straight and I can't detect any damage to the trailer hardware. I increased the pressure to 50psi, but the wear pattern continues to get worse. I probably have less than 4k miles on it now and the inside edge of both tires is nearly bald and the wear extends very heavy for 2/3 of the way across the tire. Have any of you experienced this or do you have any suggestions?


The tread on my Trail America tires was fine but both were very weather cracked on the sidewalls so I decided to replace them with radials from Discount tire last year. They seem to be holding up very well. I think my problem was partly cheap bias tires and exposure to the Texas sun as I keep the boat in the side yard. I just bought a package of 4 canvas tire covers from Harbor Freight for $9.99 and have begun covering them while stored. Hopefully this will protect them a bit.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*trailer tires*



FlyItAll said:


> Hey guys, I have the 17 footer with the optional aluminum trailer and Trail America tires (ST175/80D13 rated for 1350 lbs at 50 psi). The tires were at 35 psi when I picked up the boat so I left them at 35. After less than a 1,000 miles I started to notice wear on the inside edge of both tires. I haven't hit potholes or anything and the axle looks straight and I can't detect any damage to the trailer hardware. I increased the pressure to 50psi, but the wear pattern continues to get worse. I probably have less than 4k miles on it now and the inside edge of both tires is nearly bald and the wear extends very heavy for 2/3 of the way across the tire. Have any of you experienced this or do you have any suggestions?


flyitall, i had issues with the driver side tire wearing very prematurely in the same area you are describing. the tire(s) had only about 800-900 miles on them. i diligently kept the tires at spec pressure. i posted a ways back about this scenario.


----------



## FlyItAll

*Trailer Tires*

FlatsCat - My wear also first showed up on the driver side tire on the inside. Winters - My wear pattern is perfectly smooth around the tire. I thought a tire balance problem would produce cupping and so I have been thinking this must be a toe-in or toe-out problem. Do you remember if your tires were smooth or cupped? 
Joe - I have had that happen before, but this boat gets stored in my garage.

Thanks for input guys, I'm trying to figure out if I should go to a tire shop or a trailer repair shop first.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*trailer tires*

my local BPS/TM service dept. took care of me with my premature tire wear (thank you Nick and crew). they were able to get both tires replaced under warranty and they balanced them too.

needless to say, i will be keeping an eye on them and post updates as the miles accumulate.


----------



## lrobalo23hps

*New Member*

Wow..182 pages. I'm looking at a 2013 Mako 17 Skiff from a local dealer. I've owned and been around boats all my life (I'm 62) so I don't consider myself a novice...but after reading much of this thread..I know I have a lot to learn. I climbed all over the Mako at the dealers the other day and was trying to figure out where to put a trolling motor battery. It won't fit in the forward compartment and I don't want the extra weight in the stern, so the only solution I could come up with is possibly mounting it in the center console. Anybody have any suggestions or pics? Thanks in advance.

John


----------



## joebucko

lrobalo23hps said:


> Wow..182 pages. I'm looking at a 2013 Mako 17 Skiff from a local dealer. I've owned and been around boats all my life (I'm 62) so I don't consider myself a novice...but after reading much of this thread..I know I have a lot to learn. I climbed all over the Mako at the dealers the other day and was trying to figure out where to put a trolling motor battery. It won't fit in the forward compartment and I don't want the extra weight in the stern, so the only solution I could come up with is possibly mounting it in the center console. Anybody have any suggestions or pics? Thanks in advance.
> 
> John


The most practical solution for a Trolling Motor & battery(s) is to mount the trolling motor on one side of the bow and the battery(s) under the front deck on the opposite side. In my case (see pic) my TM is on the port side and battery is starboard. An onboard dual charger is mounted on the wall under the front deck to the left of the battery. This makes for good weight distribution and tucks the battery(s) comfortably out of the way.

For your information. There is no wiring channel/tube between the bow and the center console so there is no way to run concealed wiring directly from the console to the bow.


----------



## lrobalo23hps

Thanks joebucko. Looks like you have a 24v...unless that black thing I see on the Port side is not a battery. I was thinking about going with a 12v 55lb thrust Minn Kota...thoughts?


----------



## Winters97gt

lrobalo23hps said:


> Thanks joebucko. Looks like you have a 24v...unless that black thing I see on the Port side is not a battery. I was thinking about going with a 12v 55lb thrust Minn Kota...thoughts?


That's all you need


----------



## arrowhand

have the 80lb, 24v system myself, love it. don't think the dual batteries is to much weight for up front, actually find it rides a little smoother than no batteries


----------



## joebucko

lrobalo23hps said:


> Thanks joebucko. Looks like you have a 24v...unless that black thing I see on the Port side is not a battery. I was thinking about going with a 12v 55lb thrust Minn Kota...thoughts?


I have a 12V 55# thrust Terrova iPilot (old picture shows a white motorguide) with a Group 27 deep cycle battery. The battery is on the right side under the deck. There are two storage crates under the deck on the left side. Some owners have installed larger trolling motors but the 55#thrust has been great for everything I need to do.


----------



## Jonc

arrowhand said:


> have the 80lb, 24v system myself, love it. don't think the dual batteries is to much weight for up front, actually find it rides a little smoother than no batteries


Same setup, works great, and agree the added weight is a bonus.

Jonc


----------



## O2BFSHN

Has anyone considered creating a false deck spanning from the front deck to the back and raising the console? Once that was done you could build in rod lockers, storage, etc. You may have to put in a permanent fuel tank since you won't be able to pull it out any longer. There may be a really obvious reason not to do this, but I don't know.


----------



## 1MOFISH

Without having to go back and reread the whole thread again, how does this boat handle in rougher water when the wind is up, how stable is the boat when a couple of people are standing on the same side, how is the fuel economy and what are the biggest waters you have been out in and still felt safe. 
Leaning between this boat and the Xpress H18B (when I can lay my eyes on one and crawl around in it).

Seems 16K for a hull and then all the mods you want to do with it afterwards can put you up close to a ready to go fishing machine with everything you need.


----------



## BigBay420

1MOFISH said:


> Without having to go back and reread the whole thread again, how does this boat handle in rougher water when the wind is up, how stable is the boat when a couple of people are standing on the same side, how is the fuel economy and what are the biggest waters you have been out in and still felt safe.
> Leaning between this boat and the Xpress H18B (when I can lay my eyes on one and crawl around in it).
> 
> Seems 16K for a hull and then all the mods you want to do with it afterwards can put you up close to a ready to go fishing machine with everything you need.


I rode in one last week and its a pretty wet ride and it doesn't take chop good at all. My brothers 1860 Alumacraft rides 100% better. You really need to pick your days and watch the forecast. I think it would be a great little boat for a small lake or river. Not knocking the rig I just think you could get something a little better for the money.


----------



## joebucko

1MOFISH said:


> Without having to go back and reread the whole thread again, how does this boat handle in rougher water when the wind is up, how stable is the boat when a couple of people are standing on the same side, how is the fuel economy and what are the biggest waters you have been out in and still felt safe.
> Leaning between this boat and the Xpress H18B (when I can lay my eyes on one and crawl around in it).
> 
> Seems 16K for a hull and then all the mods you want to do with it afterwards can put you up close to a ready to go fishing machine with everything you need.


I have had my Pro17 with the Merc 60hp engine for over two years now so I have had an opportunity to experience a lot of different conditions. It is a very dry ride and it handles chop extremely well. It won't pound you to death like most flat bottom skiffs. Stability is excellent due to the cat like hull. Two people can be standing on the same side of the boat and it barely moves. Fuel economy is excellent. I only carry one 6 gal tank because the most gas I have ever used in a day was 3 gals. Cruises along at 30mph/5000rpm. WOT is 6000rpm/35-36mph depending on load. If you want any more speed than 35/36mph look at a different boat.


----------



## OldManOwen

Does anyone know off the top of their head what the 100 hour service will cost me? I like to do all the maintenance myself but i'm worried Tracker/Mercury will not honor my warranty if I don't have BPS do the 100 HR service.


----------



## arrowhand

1MOFISH said:


> Without having to go back and reread the whole thread again, how does this boat handle in rougher water when the wind is up, how stable is the boat when a couple of people are standing on the same side, how is the fuel economy and what are the biggest waters you have been out in and still felt safe.
> Leaning between this boat and the Xpress H18B (when I can lay my eyes on one and crawl around in it).
> 
> Seems 16K for a hull and then all the mods you want to do with it afterwards can put you up close to a ready to go fishing machine with everything you need.


was looking at the Xpress bay boats myself, never got past looking at them on the dealers lot, did that 3 times. Just didn't like the overall fit and finish, but maybe aluminum rigs have a different final fitment. Looked at Carolina skiffs, Sundance Skiffs and then found these little Mako's. Read a lot on the forums about the ride of the flat bottoms, and having had a 14' tracker with a flat bottom I knew I wanted a better ride. Most all the forums talked about the ride the Mako had and it not being a wet ride and handling chop good. I went for it without a test drive and could not be happier. This Mako makes boat #15 for me. Its simple and easy and im super glad its not loaded up from the factory so I can add stuff as I want and the budget allows.

my 16yr old daughter and I standing on the same side and the boat barely lists, very stable.
fuel economy-this thing runs on gas vapor it seems
my .02


----------



## Jack's Pocket

1MOFISH said:


> Without having to go back and reread the whole thread again, how does this boat handle in rougher water when the wind is up, how stable is the boat when a couple of people are standing on the same side, how is the fuel economy and what are the biggest waters you have been out in and still felt safe.
> Leaning between this boat and the Xpress H18B (when I can lay my eyes on one and crawl around in it).
> 
> Seems 16K for a hull and then all the mods you want to do with it afterwards can put you up close to a ready to go fishing machine with everything you need.


Without writing a thesis of the rigs I have owned.
These are good little boats that fit a niche, I run Galveston and Trinity bay in a 16 footer 
Have to remember you don't have to spend what a starter home cost to have a good bay rig.
Have to remember 99% of boats and lures are made to catch fishermen not fish.


----------



## frankcr

If someone wants a loaded flats rig for anywhere the price of the Mako, go for it.

These hulls smooth chop out nicely and run dry. This is the first report I have seen about a bumpy, wet ride. Don't tell our Mako as it thinks it is supposed to be a stable boat which eats river chop and does it on very little gasoline.

A false deck would be a pretty easy project with room for storage and cable runs.

One beauty of these boats is their adaptability.


----------



## charliel2

*Trim*

Boat takes chop nicely. If you're getting wet then you're probably not trimming it right. My 17' likes to have the nose trimmed up in chop and then it rides just fine.

It sips gas. I'm probably getting around 7 to 8 mpg average and I rarely ever run light. The hulls are extrememly light and the 4 strokes are very very good on gas.


----------



## Winters97gt

You can definetly get wet in this boat, regardless of much experience you have on the water. It's not a dry boat, but probably the driest 17ft skiff I've ever been on. When it's blowing 30+MPH and you're crossing deep water like the intracoastals, you're gonna get wet. 

I agree, it is a very good riding boat for the size.


----------



## Jack's Pocket

Anyone tried the TACO glide sticks on their bunks.
My boat is a bear to launch on low tide if you can't 
float it off.


----------



## FlyItAll

*River Running*

Finally got my Mako out on the river. Spent 2 days fishing with my wife at Lee's Ferry, this is the Colorado River below Lake Powell in Arizona. Both days we made the 18 mile run up to the dam and fished our way down. My wife landed her first trout on a fly rod and she really enjoyed the time on the boat. We will be making this a regular trip. Due to the shallow spots you encounter, all of the guides here run jet drives on aluminum boats. We were careful and never touched bottom. Next time I'll bring my trolling motor since it would be great to control the drifts while nymphing. I had 2 different guides come by to look at the Mako and they liked it for this type of fishing!


----------



## joebucko

Jack's Pocket said:


> Anyone tried the TACO glide sticks on their bunks.
> My boat is a bear to launch on low tide if you can't
> float it off.


I had the same problem with my boat on shallow ramps. I opted to cover my bunks with 1/2" starboard and it turned out great.

This week I helped a friend replace all of the bunks on his trailer and we used the Tie Down Engineering bunk slicks he got from Academy. 160" (10 @ 16") with stainless steel mounting screws for about $37 a kit. Easy to install and well made at a decent price.
http://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/tie...pid-13567?N=547047730&Ntt=bunk+slicks&Ntk=All


----------



## Winters97gt

Flyitall, that's a sweet picture. Be careful on that bottom for sure.


----------



## Jack's Pocket

joebucko said:


> I had the same problem with my boat on shallow ramps. I opted to cover my bunks with 1/2" starboard and it turned out great.
> 
> This week I helped a friend replace all of the bunks on his trailer and we used the Tie Down Engineering bunk slicks he got from Academy. 160" (10 @ 16") with stainless steel mounting screws for about $37 a kit. Easy to install and well made at a decent price.
> http://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/tie...pid-13567?N=547047730&Ntt=bunk+slicks&Ntk=All


I like the pvc board idea the best.
Since I am grounded till after the 28th,
going to drive over to Lowes and check them out.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*Colorado River*

flyitall, that is a beautiful pic of your local rock strata. cheers and weight forward casting!


----------



## arrowhand

Jack's Pocket said:


> Anyone tried the TACO glide sticks on their bunks.
> My boat is a bear to launch on low tide if you can't
> float it off.


 try silicone on the forward portion of your bunks, I did the forward half and my boat slides right off--sometimes to easily, don't undue you winch strap till your ready to unload it, if that doesn't work try silicone on the rest of the bunks. bet you don't need to buy the glide sticks


----------



## prod1944

*Trailer bunks*

I just saw a silicone spray for trailer bunks at Bass Pro Shops. Its called Marykate liquid rollers. Non staining or marking. If my boat ever gets here I am going to try it. Looks like at least 2 more weeks before it arrives. I did see the 2015 skiff. Some small changes like the livewell seat no longer has a gap when it is closed and the seat is two tone color. Looks like the seat will keep the water in the livewell. It also looks like the well under the back deck is a little bigger and the wire chase boot is a litte higherThe livewell pump has been moved back to the other side and the pump is straight up and down. No tilt or angle. It has the easy pickup with 3 holes drilled in the top of it. Mako engineer I talked to at the boat show said that part of the reason for the air locks was the tilt on the pump. I sure wish they still had a 2014 so I could have compared the size of that bilge area.


----------



## Jonc

FlyItAll said:


> Finally got my Mako out on the river. Spent 2 days fishing with my wife at Lee's Ferry, this is the Colorado River below Lake Powell in Arizona. Both days we made the 18 mile run up to the dam and fished our way down. My wife landed her first trout on a fly rod and she really enjoyed the time on the boat. We will be making this a regular trip. Due to the shallow spots you encounter, all of the guides here run jet drives on aluminum boats. We were careful and never touched bottom. Next time I'll bring my trolling motor since it would be great to control the drifts while nymphing. I had 2 different guides come by to look at the Mako and they liked it for this type of fishing!


Great pic! That would be a blast fishing that river for trout on the fly.. Don't know if this would work down there or not as it would depend on the river bottom but I fish pretty fast moving rivers up here and use the lead pyramid anchors.

The hold on those things is amazing particularly if you have a sand/silt river bottom. I toss it in up stream from the cuts and holes and drift downstream until I find my spot and tie it off. A 50 lb. pyramid is smaller than a coffee can.

Jonc


----------



## FlyItAll

Thanks for the tip Jonc. The bottom there is either tightly packed river rock or solid rock. I brought my Danforth anchor with 5' of chain and a long rode, but never could set it. The current is way too much for my iPilot. I am on the lookout for something that might hold!


----------



## FlyItAll

Jonc, maybe that Pyramid anchor would be good- seems like the drift boats like them, but 50# ? I'll need to hit the gym! I have been thinking about the Richtor anchors.


----------



## Jonc

You may not need one that heavy Flyitall.. Your drift boat guides down there would be a great resource to give you the best information as to holding the current. I fish a hydro dam up here and the current is just screaming thus the heavy anchor but on other rivers a smaller pyramid holds just fine. The real workout is pulling your boat against the current to dislodge the anchor but hey.. That's fly fishing rivers. Michigan has some world class trout rivers but fishing out west is on my bucket list.

Jonc


----------



## yeocokent

joebucko said:


> Techguy802: Oil change
> 
> When I changed mine I used the recommended Mercury 25W/40 synthetic blend and a Mercury oil filter. At the time nobody local (not even BassPro) carried it. I ordered my oil and filter from Merten Marine @$28.94/gal. Since then I have seen the Quicksilver labeled 25W/40 oil at Walmart for $34/gal.
> 
> The actual oil change was very easy although you will need an "F" size oil filter wrench from Autozone or probably any good auto parts store. This is the type that slips over the end of the filter like a socket and you use a 3/8" ratchet to turn it.


I purchased the 25W-40 Quicksilver 4 stroke outboard Oil at Walmart along with an oil filter. Just did the oil change. However, now that I look on the gallon container it doesn't say it is "synthetic". I went on the quicksilver website and they don't even show a non synthetic. I might be overthinking it but just want to make sure the warranty is not affected.

It is this one here.... http://www.walmart.com/ip/Quicksilver-25W-40-4-Stroke-Marine-Oil/35792205 Kind of kicking myself for not looking a bit closer.


----------



## joebucko

yeocokent said:


> I purchased the 25W-40 Quicksilver 4 stroke outboard Oil at Walmart along with an oil filter. Just did the oil change. However, now that I look on the gallon container it doesn't say it is "synthetic". I went on the quicksilver website and they don't even show a non synthetic. I might be overthinking it but just want to make sure the warranty is not affected.
> 
> It is this one here.... http://www.walmart.com/ip/Quicksilver-25W-40-4-Stroke-Marine-Oil/35792205 Kind of kicking myself for not looking a bit closer.


I doubt that it will matter. What you used is good quality marine rated oil for 4 stroke engines. The last time I changed the oil I bought Quicksilver synthetic blend marked for Mercruisers at Academy. I called Mercury and they told me that it was exactly the same oil as that labeled for 4-strokes. Mercury has an odd marketing strategy because they duplicate most parts, propellers and oils under the Mercury and Quicksilver brands. Supposedly that is because they allot marketing $$ to Mercury but do not advertise Quicksilver and they only distribute Mercury labeled stuff through authorized dealers.


----------



## yeocokent

Thanks Joe. Yeah, I am not going to worry about it. Quicksilver and merc are the same. My only issue was that the oil wasn't the "synthetic blend" that the manual calls for.


----------



## arrowhand

my boarding ladder came in last week, looks like a perfect fit, ill post some photos of it when I get it installed. has anyone drilled thru the transom about 10" down from the rub rail, just wondering how thick it is


----------



## lrobalo23hps

*BayStar steering*

I test drove a 17 ProSkiff this morning and liked everything but the Teleflex steering. Has anyone put Hydraulic Steering (BayStar) on thier 60 Merc? The dealer quoted me 700$ for that mod.

Also without going through every page...somewhere back I saw a pic of someone's depth recorder mounted with a RamMount..does anyone know what page...and lastly, Joebucko...is there somewhere I can get one of those shims made like you had for your transducer? Thanks in advance for all the help guys.

John


----------



## Jack's Pocket

lrobalo23hps said:


> I test drove a 17 ProSkiff this morning and liked everything but the Teleflex steering. Has anyone put Hydraulic Steering (BayStar) on thier 60 Merc? The dealer quoted me 700$ for that mod.
> 
> Also without going through every page...somewhere back I saw a pic of someone's depth recorder mounted with a RamMount..does anyone know what page...and lastly, Joebucko...is there somewhere I can get one of those shims made like you had for your transducer? Thanks in advance for all the help guys.
> 
> John


Made my shim out of JB marine weld.Cut a piece of plastic the size of the transducer bracket and went to
molding. Took a couple of sticks but it is a perfect fit
and sandable as well. Screwed it right to the stern saver and the transducer to it.
Also did a wax job on the bunks bought a can 
of nu finish and applied it to the bunks.
Better not unhook until you are ready to launch.
Now the experiment will be to see how long it holds up.


----------



## joebucko

lrobalo23hps said:


> I test drove a 17 ProSkiff this morning and liked everything but the Teleflex steering. Has anyone put Hydraulic Steering (BayStar) on thier 60 Merc? The dealer quoted me 700$ for that mod.
> 
> Also without going through every page...somewhere back I saw a pic of someone's depth recorder mounted with a RamMount..does anyone know what page...and lastly, Joebucko...is there somewhere I can get one of those shims made like you had for your transducer? Thanks in advance for all the help guys.
> 
> John


I changed my steering from the standard teleflex to the teleflex NFB (no feed back). I briefly looked at the hydraulic but decided it was not needed as the boat is easy to steer and it is very expensive with more maintenance. The NFB allows the driver to take his/her hands off the steering wheel and the boat will stay on course.


----------



## joebucko

joebucko said:


> I changed my steering from the standard teleflex to the teleflex NFB (no feed back). I briefly looked at the hydraulic but decided it was not needed as the boat is easy to steer and it is very expensive with more maintenance. The NFB allows the driver to take his/her hands off the steering wheel and the boat will stay on course.


Teleflex has changed their name to SEASTAR but the equipment is the same. To make steering even easier you can install their "NFB 4.2" helm. Instead of our standard helm which is 3 turns of the wheel lock to lock the this one is 4.2 turns lock to lock giving you even more leverage making steering much easier.

The most difficult part of swapping these mechanical helms is getting the actual steering wheel off the tapered spindle.


----------



## lrobalo23hps

Makes sense Joe..but it should not be a problem removing the wheel..since it's a brand new boat, but that will be the dealer's problem.


----------



## charliel2

*Tight Steering*

For anyone who might be having a steering issue this is something that happened to me earlier this year.

Ever since I bought my 17' w/Merc 60hp, my motor was a bit hard to turn. At least harder than I thought it should be. I mentally wrote it off as, "that's just how the base steering (Safe-T) works". But, it slowly got worse over a little more than a year. I cleaned my tilt tube and re-lubed it and lubed the steering shaft as best I could but that made little difference. Finally, I thought, "this isn't right" and took it in to be looked at. I was heading to Big Pine Key for 3 weeks and if anything was wrong I wanted to have it fixed before departing.

BPS Destin called me back the same day and advised me that the steering bushings (upper&lower) were installed incorrectly. Evidently, the bushings have a raised fin. That fin is supposed to fit into a slot in the housing and mine had been installed with the fin outside the house. This caused the steering to bind and also didn't allow grease to completely fill the steering shaft.

BPS replaced both bushings under warranty and my steering now works like it should. Very easy to turn. Thought I'd share in the event someone else is having similar issues. My local BPS indicated mine was the second one they seen recently with the bushings installed wrong.

Boat and trailer performed flawlessly in the Keys. Almost perfect little boat for crusing the flats and bcakcountry down there. I added another 6 gal fuel tank and only had to switch tanks twice on days we made long runs to search for new spots. With the exception of 1 day we spent in Key West and 1 day in the Dry Tortugas, we were able to run sun-up to sun-down everyday without a hiccup. Love the fuel efficiency of these outfits.


----------



## Winters97gt

Your BPS sounds like strait shooters. A far cry from the norm. Hope you are enjoying/enjoyed your trip!


----------



## FlatsCatFL

Charlie12: "1 day in the Dry Tortugas". You must have had some beautiful weather, that's a lot of open water to cross.


----------



## FlyItAll

Charlie12- Sounds like a great trip! That is something I want to do also and had in mind when I bought the boat. Did you rent a house down there? 
Do you know if there is anything visible on the steering bushings that indicate that problem or do you need to dissassemble things to see it?


----------



## charliel2

*Steering/Keys*

FlatscatFL - that IS a very long run to the Dry Tortugas (70 miles west of Key West). We took the National Park Service's Yankee Freedom out and back on a day trip. A little pricey (~$150 pp) but well worth it. One of the most beautiful places I've ever been to.

FlyIt

"Did you rent a house down there?"

We rented a house on Big Pine Key thru VRBO. It was located in the Dr's Arm area near No Name Pub. It had a canal right behind the house, lobstering waters just 100 yards from the dock. Our house was $2700 for 27 days and we were able to split it between 3 families. Supposedly, Big Pine requires a 27 day minimum stay but you can find places that will rent for shorter periods. It is surprisingly affordable the further away you get from Key West. I can only spend about 1 day in Key West and I'm done. I went down there to fish, spear and lobster and that ain't what Key West is all about. Only thing I'd do differently would be to have more time during regular lobster season. We were there during mini season at it was a little crazy. Not so much craziness during the regular season which opened 6 days after the mini season closed. Beautiful water down there, very easy to find giant coral heads on the Atlantic side with spearable fish. We made it out to the Looe Key area (6 miles offshore) on a nice day. The water out there looks like a swimming pool. There were numerous folks out there in 13' skiffs freediving 6 miles offshore on good days.

"Do you know if there is anything visible on the steering bushings that indicate that problem or do you need to dissassemble things to see it?"

Not that I would be able to tell unless I put them side by side. The new bushings were blue versus the factory grey ones it came with.


----------



## FlyItAll

Thanks for the additional info Charlie12! I agree with you about the Dry Tortugas, I took the family on the same NPS day trip 2 years ago and we all enjoyed it. 
That house you rented looks like a really good deal and much cheaper than the ones I found the last time I looked. What a great way to explore the keys!


----------



## frankcr

We are about to bust to get a chance to take the Mako to the Keys, and hopefully we will get to go before too long. Did you take yours to or past the reef? We normally go to Marathon and enjoy bottom fishing. Seems that Hawks Channel has many patch reefs to investigate.


----------



## lrobalo23hps

*Boat Cover..*

Anybody got one for their 17 Pro Skiff? If so, where did you get it? Thanks.


----------



## Jonc

*Boat cover*

If you go back thru the pages, Joebucko had a post or two on 17 covers as well as others.

JonC


----------



## lrobalo23hps

I ordered one from them yesterday. Thanks. My second one from Boatcoversdirect.com


----------



## LitUp

*trolling motor*

hey guy just curious to what lbs trust trolling motors yall use and if you feel like what your running is too much or not enough or just right. I would like to put a 24volt 80lbs trust on there but i also dont want to weigh down the boat more than it already is (i have two batteries in the back already, one for running all the lights i have and the original cranking battery)

As always i appreciate yalls input,

Litup


----------



## joebucko

LitUp said:


> hey guy just curious to what lbs trust trolling motors yall use and if you feel like what your running is too much or not enough or just right. I would like to put a 24volt 80lbs trust on there but i also dont want to weigh down the boat more than it already is (i have two batteries in the back already, one for running all the lights i have and the original cranking battery)
> 
> As always i appreciate yalls input,
> 
> Litup


I run a 55# thrust Terrova w/iPilot and a group 27 lead acid battery. This tm will pull my Pro17 along at 2.5mph wide open. It has done a great job for me in the large North Texas lakes. I usually have wind to deal with but no tide/current. I'd be curious what #thrust the salt water boys use.

As for battery weight I believe this discussion will soon be a thing of the past with the rapidly advancing technologies, AGM, Lithium and who knows what else.


----------



## Winters97gt

I'm running the same setup but a riptide as Joe. I haven't found a need for anything more.


----------



## Jonc

I'm running the same set up you're considering and it's worked perfectly for me. We do a spring trip every year to a state park with decent sized lakes and a power motor ban which is why I went that route. Fished every day, all day and never ran out of power.

I believe I've stated this before in this thread but the added battery weight in the bow actually helps the nose sit down while under way in the 16. No regrets on my end.

Jonc


----------



## arrowhand

minn kota 80lb Ipilot here, only used a couple times, light wind so far-worked awesome. anchor lock feature is incredible, I found the weight of the two batteries up front to not be a issue at all, think it rides a little smoother


----------



## Jonc

*Chinook (king) salmon run*

Ok.. It's been pretty quite here guys so let's mix it up a bit. Heading off next week to northern Michigan for the fall salmon run. I know all of you coastal guys down there catch big game fish daily but this is a bucket list item for every fisherman if you haven't experienced salmon fishing yet. The king salmon average 15-20 lbs. and about 36" in length and are infamous for their sheer power and speed.

Fisherman travel from all over the world to fish these beautiful remote rivers and the chance to fight these incredibly powerful fish. Catching them is one thing but landing them is a whole other challenge. The rivers are tight and they can run until your spool is almost empty heading for any cover or log they can find. Typically it takes two guys with nets standing in various parts of the river just to have a decent chance.

We wade in and fish ten weight fly rods with streamers or egg sucking leach patterns and they hit these flies like a freight train and then you're off for a 45 minute fight. Sorry, no passion here!, but it's really 4 days of one of the the best fishing experiences you'll have in a lifetime.

Jonc


----------



## Jonc

*Salmon*

Here's a pre spawn male from last years trip. He's a pretty decent one.


----------



## FlyItAll

Nice fish Jonc! You sound pumped up for a great trip. I have fished in Alaska for King Salmon nearly 20 years ago and it was an experience I'll never forget. Good luck and tight lines!


----------



## TallySkiff

Hi Everyone,

Just want to start out with a big thanks for sharing your buying experience and updates on how your Makos are doing. We bought our 17ft skiff a couple weeks ago and have been able to take it out twice. We got the boat from BPS who had to go get one from another store. We went over the boat with the sales manager and service guys at BPS at time of purchase and found a couple rivets missing along the back side of the rub rail and the back deck was not secured completely on one side. Their reaction...'we'll take care of that, no problem'. We plan on getting the fixes done when we return it for the first service. 

The first trip to start the break in period resulted in us running out of gas...totally our fault for assumming that when you buy a new boat they give you a full tank of gas. Luckily we were near some private docks on a river and were able to walk back to the Jeep and go get gas. Learned a few lessons that day...check gas, get a paddle, get a radio and know how to get a hold of Sea Tow.

We installed the depth finder (HB 899CI) this past weekend....what a pain the butt with the fish tape! After several tries from the console to the back and then back to console, we finally got it through. Took the skiff out Sunday in the Gulf of Mexico in the Big Bend area of Florida and had great weather. Tried fishing for some trout, but no luck. 

Did find that we're getting a heck of a rooster tail from the depth finder so we'll need to adjust that. Anyone remember who had the shim for the depthfinder? JoeB? We used a Stern Saver and could use some help in trying to figure out the best adjustments based on everyone's experience. 

We're looking forward to getting out on the water more as the weather starts to cool down some...even plan on trying out some of the local lakes to get some bass or crappie (never done that before).

Again..thanks to everyone for contributing to this thread!


----------



## joebucko

TallySkiff said:


> Hi Everyone,
> 
> Just want to start out with a big thanks for sharing your buying experience and updates on how your Makos are doing. We bought our 17ft skiff a couple weeks ago and have been able to take it out twice. We got the boat from BPS who had to go get one from another store. We went over the boat with the sales manager and service guys at BPS at time of purchase and found a couple rivets missing along the back side of the rub rail and the back deck was not secured completely on one side. Their reaction...'we'll take care of that, no problem'. We plan on getting the fixes done when we return it for the first service.
> 
> The first trip to start the break in period resulted in us running out of gas...totally our fault for assumming that when you buy a new boat they give you a full tank of gas. Luckily we were near some private docks on a river and were able to walk back to the Jeep and go get gas. Learned a few lessons that day...check gas, get a paddle, get a radio and know how to get a hold of Sea Tow.
> 
> We installed the depth finder (HB 899CI) this past weekend....what a pain the butt with the fish tape! After several tries from the console to the back and then back to console, we finally got it through. Took the skiff out Sunday in the Gulf of Mexico in the Big Bend area of Florida and had great weather. Tried fishing for some trout, but no luck.
> 
> Did find that we're getting a heck of a rooster tail from the depth finder so we'll need to adjust that. Anyone remember who had the shim for the depthfinder? JoeB? We used a Stern Saver and could use some help in trying to figure out the best adjustments based on everyone's experience.
> 
> We're looking forward to getting out on the water more as the weather starts to cool down some...even plan on trying out some of the local lakes to get some bass or crappie (never done that before).
> 
> Again..thanks to everyone for contributing to this thread!


Tally, I sent you a private message.


----------



## lrobalo23hps

*Boat...*

Picking mine up tomorrow...finally. joebucko, thanks for all of your help.


----------



## joebucko

lrobalo23hps said:


> Picking mine up tomorrow...finally. joebucko, thanks for all of your help.


Glad to be of service. 
Lots of new owners appearing on this site who have taken the time to read through most of the comments/observations from actual Proskiff owners. I think most will be very pleased with their decisions because they have a good idea of what to expect. Looking forward to hearing from the newbees after they have had an opportunity to actually get some time on the water.


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## yeocokent

We got in a mess of blues last weekend. Here is a pic of the outcome. Kids and I continue to have a blast on this little boat.


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## OldManOwen

yeocokent,
Nice catch! If you don't mind could you please tell me where you got the fish ruler and how it was attached! I purchased one that is a "stick on" but it's to "tall" to fit in the spot you have it. Thank you and congrats!


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## yeocokent

I got it at our local tackle store, RW Sports. I will go down to the boat and look at the brand name tomorrow morning and post it. Could probably find it online after I get the brand name.


----------



## OldManOwen

yeocokent said:


> I got it at our local tackle store, RW Sports. I will go down to the boat and look at the brand name tomorrow morning and post it. Could probably find it online after I get the brand name.


Thanks bud I appreciate it! Just went and washed the boat, can't wait to get back out there before the snow!


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## yeocokent

Yuck, it is too early for snow! I went out this morning for a bit but it was too rough and windy. The company name for the strip is "fish strips" and the one I got was 48 inches. It stuck on real good and was easy to get on there.

If you can't find one let me know and I could pick one up and mail it to you.


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## OldManOwen

Thanks yeocokent,
I typed it in Google and low and behold the first line is a link to 2cool! There is a nice write up and a link to buy them starting at $4.99. Thank you sir!


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## lrobalo23hps

*Boat Review.*

Took the new boat out on its first trip on Thursday. Went to a couple fishing spots. The live well seems to work intermittingly. Had to cut it on and off a few times. The boat didn't have any water in it after pulling the plugs at the landing. The one thing that did shock me was how much gas I burned. I had almost a full tank (6.6 gal) when I started..ran for no more than 2 hours total on and off and while I was waiting for my buddy to back the boat trailer down...I ran out of gas. Used the TM to get to the dock. I bought a small 2.5 gallon gas can until I can get another Quicksilver 6.6 gal tank. The Depth recorder/GPS worked great. Pictures to come soon.


----------



## joebucko

lrobalo23hps said:


> Took the new boat out on its first trip on Thursday. Went to a couple fishing spots. The live well seems to work intermittingly. Had to cut it on and off a few times. The boat didn't have any water in it after pulling the plugs at the landing. The one thing that did shock me was how much gas I burned. I had almost a full tank (6.6 gal) when I started..ran for no more than 2 hours total on and off and while I was waiting for my buddy to back the boat trailer down...I ran out of gas. Used the TM to get to the dock. I bought a small 2.5 gallon gas can until I can get another Quicksilver 6.6 gal tank. The Depth recorder/GPS worked great. Pictures to come soon.


I am surprised at the fuel usage. I was out last week and ran more than usual on a 5 hour trip. Of that I was probably at WOT for 40 minutes and only used 3 gals. I don't even carry my extra 6 gal tank because the burn rate is so good.


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## lrobalo23hps

joebucko said:


> I am surprised at the fuel usage. I was out last week and ran more than usual on a 5 hour trip. Of that I was probably at WOT for 40 minutes and only used 3 gals. I don't even carry my extra 6 gal tank because the burn rate is so good.


I guess I need to figure out how many hours runmning time at varying speeds I can get out of that standard tank. I did run it WOT..then half throttle...throughout the day. It looked like I had almost a full tank...maybe it was lower than I thought. My son and his wife took it out yesterday from around 3:00-5:00 and burned 2.5 gallons. I'm running it Friday..so we shall see.


----------



## Jstone

*Gas*

:walkingsm:walkingsm:walkingsmI bought an extra 6 gallon tank but it takes so long to run out of the 1st one I just carry a portable 1.5 gallon gas container.


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## Winters97gt

lrobalo23hps said:


> Took the new boat out on its first trip on Thursday. Went to a couple fishing spots. The live well seems to work intermittingly. Had to cut it on and off a few times. The boat didn't have any water in it after pulling the plugs at the landing. The one thing that did shock me was how much gas I burned. I had almost a full tank (6.6 gal) when I started..ran for no more than 2 hours total on and off and while I was waiting for my buddy to back the boat trailer down...I ran out of gas. Used the TM to get to the dock. I bought a small 2.5 gallon gas can until I can get another Quicksilver 6.6 gal tank. The Depth recorder/GPS worked great. Pictures to come soon.


That's very surprising. I've run 45-50 miles and not killed the tank. Many, many times.


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## charliel2

*Fuel Usage*

I bought an extra 6 gal tank and have only ever had to use it twice. On our trip to the Keys this summer we ran the boat 12 out of the 16 days we were there and only had to use the spare tank once. And we ran it just about sunrise to sunset on those days. No way it would burn a tank of gas in two hours when working properly. I think you'd have to be WOT for two hours straight to burn thru 6.6 gals, lol.

Try it again with a full tank and see what happens. Your best RPM for fuel mileage is going to be somewhere around 4000-4500. You should be able to go 50 miles easy on 6.6 gals. Don't forget to loosen the vent, I killed my engine once when I forgot to loosen it. Thought I had run out of gas.

Good luck!


----------



## lrobalo23hps

Going to give it another try on Friday. I know the tank is full now. Perhaps I made a mistake when I looked in the tank and thought it was almost full. I will report back after Friday's trip.


----------



## yeocokent

Winters97gt said:


> That's very surprising. I've run 45-50 miles and not killed the tank. Many, many times.


 same here. I run at WOT most of the time too. The only time I get in trouble is when I go out and dont't fill the tank and need to go further than I plan.

Killing the tank in 2 hours sounds like something is not right.


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## prod1944

*Boat at last!!!!*

Just recieved a call from Bass Pro. My boat has finally arrived. Will take cashiers check on Monday an should have the boat in my garage on tuesday. Will be on the water no later then Friday. Install stern saver, lowrance hds 7 gen2, anchor cleat, compass, fire ext., trailer guide poles with lights, handheld vhf. Need couple of months to buy trolling motor. Ran out of cash but everything is paid for. Probably will not be able to sleep tonight LOL. Yeaaaaaaaaaaa!!:spineyes:


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## Jonc

prod1944 said:


> Just recieved a call from Bass Pro. My boat has finally arrived. Will take cashiers check on Monday an should have the boat in my garage on tuesday. Will be on the water no later then Friday. Install stern saver, lowrance hds 7 gen2, anchor cleat, compass, fire ext., trailer guide poles with lights, handheld vhf. Need couple of months to buy trolling motor. Ran out of cash but everything is paid for. Probably will not be able to sleep tonight LOL. Yeaaaaaaaaaaa!!:spineyes:


Congrats!!!! Great feeling right? Now go get em!

Jonc


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## atexan

*Transducer installation advise*

I looked for example pics in the forum and on Google but never found much. As you can see in the pic I mounted my Lowrance transducer on a stern saver at the bottom edge of the transom. I originally set the transducer level with the bottom of the boat and and horizontal to the bottom. On my first trip out in the west bay it would loose contact with the bottom at any speed over 5mph. I tilted it downward until I was able to get the contact break up to 15mph. I don't know the results on plane because I was in an unknown area and was not comfortable.

Is your transducer below the bottom of the boat?

Does it need to be square to the rear or can it be on an angle with the transom?

Is it going to loose contact with the bottom until on plane? I have never used an electronic unit before so I am not sure what to expect.

Is there any way I can test myself or should I take it to a professional?

Suggestions appreciated


----------



## joebucko

atexan said:


> I looked for example pics in the forum and on Google but never found much. As you can see in the pic I mounted my Lowrance transducer on a stern saver at the bottom edge of the transom. I originally set the transducer level with the bottom of the boat and and horizontal to the bottom. On my first trip out in the west bay it would loose contact with the bottom at any speed over 5mph. I tilted it downward until I was able to get the contact break up to 15mph. I don't know the results on plane because I was in an unknown area and was not comfortable.
> 
> Is your transducer below the bottom of the boat?
> 
> Does it need to be square to the rear or can it be on an angle with the transom?
> 
> Is it going to loose contact with the bottom until on plane? I have never used an electronic unit before so I am not sure what to expect.
> 
> Is there any way I can test myself or should I take it to a professional?
> 
> Suggestions appreciated


I can give you a couple of suggestions. My transducer reads depth as fast as the boat will go (36mph) with very little rooster tail. You may have to move the mounting location to the starboard corner but you should try these two things before you do that.

1. Since you used a SternSaver you can raise the transducer up a bit so it is not actually below the bottom of the boat. The reason for positioning it 'below' the hull is an attempt to get the transducer into clear/non-turbulent water. The Sternsaver moves the transd. a bit aft. As your boat planes through the water it creates a hole and this water rises up very rapidly behind the transom as you go forward. Moving the transd a bit higher (3/4" maybe) will still allow it to engage the water but you want it to skim the surface of this cleaner water not plow through it. Once it is skimming and not plowing it will read better.

2. You have your transd mounted flat to the transom. As you probably know the Proskiff transom is angled thus the transd is being pulled through the water at this same angle which generates turbulence. You need to shim out the starboard side of the transd until it is parallel with the center line of the boat/eliminate this angle.

A combination of raising the transd and eliminating the transom angle solves the problem for transds mounted on the starboard corner. If this does not fix your issue then you need to move the mounting location to starboard.

Here are 3 pictures of how my transducers are set up. The large transducer in the center is my SideImaging transd which is completely out of the water at planing speed. The 2nd picture shows the shim I am using and the 3rd shows my how high my starboard transd is mounted. The 3rd picture also shows the value of using a transducer mounting plate and how many holes you can avoid drilling in your transom.


----------



## pcola_fl

Hi all,
I just took the 17' Skiff w/60 for test ride on Sunday. The day was rainy and a good bit of chop in the bay. The ride was very stable and came out of the hole quickly. The skiff performed remarkable; however, (thanks to the information from this group) I did experience extremely stiff steering to starboard. The boat was a 2012 and the cooler handles were broken. The BPS rep addresses my concerns and is very aware of this owner group. Thanks again, for all of the good information.


----------



## atexan

joebucko said:


> I can give you a couple of suggestions. My transducer reads depth as fast as the boat will go (36mph) with very little rooster tail. You may have to move the mounting location to the starboard corner but you should try these two things before you do that........


Thanks for the suggestions Joe. I would have never thought to go up but it makes logical sense. I will give it try.


----------



## latex

redfish007 said:


> Picking up my new skiff Saturday. Pro 17 with jackplate and power pole!! Thanks a lot for sharing your stories it has helped me decide on grabbing one of these. The pros seem to seriously out weigh the con's. Look forward to hearing more from yall on here its invaluable to get the reel scoop on these first hand. Laguna madre look out!!


Would it be to much to ask for a picture of the jackplate and powerpole??


----------



## panhandlekelly

pcola_fl said:


> Hi all,
> I just took the 17' Skiff w/60 for test ride on Sunday. The day was rainy and a good bit of chop in the bay. The ride was very stable and came out of the hole quickly. The skiff performed remarkable; however, (thanks to the information from this group) I did experience extremely stiff steering to starboard. The boat was a 2012 and the cooler handles were broken. The BPS rep addresses my concerns and is very aware of this owner group. Thanks again, for all of the good information.


I think I saw you on the I-10 bay bridge Sunday. I hope you enjoy your 17 as much as I do. A great all around boat,


----------



## pcola_fl

panhandlekelly said:


> I think I saw you on the I-10 bay bridge Sunday. I hope you enjoy your 17 as much as I do. A great all around boat,


We put in on the Alabama side of the Lillian Bridge. I really like the boat but have a little concern about the extremely stiff steering to starboard. Seems like it would be two hands to turn to starboard. Is that your experience?


----------



## joebucko

pcola_fl said:


> We put in on the Alabama side of the Lillian Bridge. I really like the boat but have a little concern about the extremely stiff steering to starboard. Seems like it would be two hands to turn to starboard. Is that your experience?


Is your boat hard to steer/turn to starboard when you are at speed or is it all the time?


----------



## pcola_fl

joebucko said:


> Is your boat hard to steer/turn to starboard when you are at speed or is it all the time?


joebucko, this was a test run with BPS on a demo 2012 17/60. I really noticed it at speed. Just wondering if this is the norm for this boat. It is a great ride and I am about to pull the trigger, but just a little concerned about the stiff steering.


----------



## prod1944

*Boat home*

Got my boat today. Stern saver is on but having major issue getting transducer cable plug through the wire chase. Almost had it and it is hung up very close to the end under the console. Gave up and will try again tomorrow. Going to pull it back out and start over. Fit right in my garage cross corner with room to spare. Have to be ready for the weekend.


----------



## joebucko

pcola_fl said:


> joebucko, this was a test run with BPS on a demo 2012 17/60. I really noticed it at speed. Just wondering if this is the norm for this boat. It is a great ride and I am about to pull the trigger, but just a little concerned about the stiff steering.


If the steering operates easily at idle speed then it should be easy to adjust. It is actually norm for most boats with manual steering and is should be easily corrected with a minor adjustment to the engine's trim tab. Your dealer can explain it to you and show you exactly how to adjust it. All it requires is a socket wrench. The dealer can't fine tune this without actually driving YOUR boat and engine combination. I have tweaked mine a couple of times.


----------



## atexan

prod1944 said:


> Got my boat today. Stern saver is on but having major issue getting transducer cable plug through the wire chase. Almost had it and it is hung up very close to the end under the console. Gave up and will try again tomorrow. Going to pull it back out and start over. Fit right in my garage cross corner with room to spare. Have to be ready for the weekend.


Did My Lowrance unit the other weekend. It took 3 tries with a big strip of duct tape and a 25' fish tape. It can be done at home.


----------



## panhandlekelly

pcola_fl said:


> We put in on the Alabama side of the Lillian Bridge. I really like the boat but have a little concern about the extremely stiff steering to starboard. Seems like it would be two hands to turn to starboard. Is that your experience?


I have not had any steering issues.


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## lrobalo23hps

panhandlekelly said:


> I have not had any steering issues.


I noticed the same thing with mine..but seemed hard both starboard and port..I fixed it...had them install Hydraulic steering! It's worth every penny.


----------



## whistlingdixie

I just wanted to help get this thread to a million views.


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## pcola_fl

whistlingdixie said:


> I just wanted to help get this thread to a million views.





lrobalo23hps said:


> I noticed the same thing with mine..but seemed hard both starboard and port..I fixed it...had them install Hydraulic steering! It's worth every penny.


Thanks all. That gives me some peace of mind. Do any of you have photos of forward or aft fishing seat? The thing I like about the boat is it flexibility to fish the river as well as bay and a little off shore.


----------



## jeh

Ok lets try this. I'm new to this stuff. I pick up my 17cc this Friday from BPS in San Antonio. I intend to use it mostly in the Rockport and Aransas pass area. My question is has anybody here tried to use their 17cc at the ends of the jetties in either PA or CC.


----------



## Linesider34

*Mako 17 draft*

And what draft are you hoping for with normal load?


----------



## redfish007

latex said:


> redfish007 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Picking up my new skiff Saturday. Pro 17 with jackplate and power pole!! Thanks a lot for sharing your stories it has helped me decide on grabbing one of these. The pros seem to seriously out weigh the con's. Look forward to hearing more from yall on here its invaluable to get the reel scoop on these first hand. Laguna madre look out!!
> 
> 
> 
> Would it be to much to ask for a picture of the jackplate and powerpole??
Click to expand...

Heres few pics of the power pole.Sorry it was dark when these were taken.


----------



## Jonc

*Aft seat*



pcola_fl said:


> Thanks all. That gives me some peace of mind. Do any of you have photos of forward or aft fishing seat? The thing I like about the boat is it flexibility to fish the river as well as bay and a little off shore.


Here's an aft seat.

Jonc


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## KeithD.

Jonc
How is the leaning post working out for you? Where did you get it? Are the screws holding well into the floor? Thanks


----------



## mrevilo

*Mako Pro Skiff*

Hello to all and thank you for an excellent source of information on the Mako Pro Skiff. I recently purchased my Pro Skiff 17 60 HP stainless prop from the local dealer here in New Braunfels, Tx. I am extremely pleased with the performance, handling and layout of my boat.

However.....

After two weeks of ownership and only 4 trips on the water I discovered two blemishes in the outer hull of my boat. They are in the same area on both sides, approximately where the bulkhead is placed across the front of the boat. I also noticed the entire front quarter of the port side appears to be hollow and flexes when moderately pressed on. The rest of the boat has no flex whatsoever.

I took my boat back to the dealer for evaluation of the problems. The dealership service manager called to say his fiberglass person had taken a look at the holes and said they could repair them no problem but he was waiting to hear back from the factory concerning the apparent lack of foam in the port quarter of the boat. He said the lack of foam was no big deal at which point I was very concerned. The fact that the boat's construction includes "High density structural foam injected hull" is very important to me (and obviously to Mako also since they mention that as a highlight of the boats construction in their brochure for the boat) and I sure would not buy a boat that has sides that flex under light pressure. He said he would let me know when he heard back from the factory.

I called the factory consumer line immediately. The person that is handling my warranty told me they had authorized the local dealer to repair the holes but the lack of foam between the inner and outer hulls was not an issue. She said my boat had the proper amount of foam but that it had settled more on the right side and left a void in the left side. She said it did not affect the structural integrity of my boat. I told her that I was not satisfied at all with that answer at which point she said they could ship it back to the factory to redo the foam if that is what I wanted. I told her that is what I wanted, a factory repair. So, I am waiting for them to send a document to the dealer for me to sign for them to ship my boat to the factory.

Like I said, I am very happy with my boat. I purposely wanted to buy my boat from a local dealer so service and support would be readily available just in case something should go wrong with my boat. I never expected to be all up in it to this level so soon after my purchase! So far I guess I have been treated fairly and am satisfied with what they say they will do. I will definitely keep my post updated as the process moves along. If they will do the correct repairs and get my boat back to me in a reasonable amount of time I will still be a happy customer. I'd like to hear from other folks who have had their boats returned to the factory so I will know what to expect.

Thank you all again for a fantastic source of information.


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## redfish007

KeithD. said:


> Jonc
> How is the leaning post working out for you? Where did you get it? Are the screws holding well into the floor? Thanks


Good question. About to get one and was worried about the installation. I think that's the only thing these boats are missing. Was wondering about those little hairline spider web cracks that I see in my buddies boats around the post legs.any of those show up? Thanks


----------



## Jonc

KeithD. said:


> Jonc
> How is the leaning post working out for you? Where did you get it? Are the screws holding well into the floor? Thanks


Hey keithD,

It's actually working out great and no issues with it at all. I bought it online thru ebay from a shop in San Diego for I believe around $300. I posted the info somewhere back in this thread but couldn't find it at this early hour. I'm thinking this thread will be surpassing the bible in pages sometimes soon.

Jonc


----------



## Jonc

redfish007 said:


> Good question. About to get one and was worried about the installation. I think that's the only thing these boats are missing. Was wondering about those little hairline spider web cracks that I see in my buddies boats around the post legs.any of those show up? Thanks


Check back on page 131 redfish 007 as I did note the installation process along with some discussion with the ever wise Joebucko. Note the depth from the liner which isn't much at all and the fasteners I used. The 3m 5200 has held it rock solid and no problems or stress cracks to date.

But..... Keep in mind I'm fishing relatively small inland fresh water lakes so it's not anywhere close to what you coastal guys put these little boats thru. I'm sure I'll be ok forever with this install but I'm betting hard fishing Winters would have it broke in a few days!!!!.

Jonc


----------



## frankcr

Gel coat is very brittle and develops spider cracks if flexed.


----------



## prod1944

*At last!!!*

Got the boat on Tuesday and its finally ready to take out. Going to do Biscayne Bay south to Card Sound. Then to Jewfish creek and into the gulf side. Got a couple of spots to fish that side and then head back and explore on the way. Good day for breakin period. Probably to windy to try to sneak out to the patch reefs. Guess I should make sure the boat is right before I venture out. Sure hope I catch fish. Been bridge fishing in the Keys the past two 1/2 years and always did very well. Installed tranducer Joebucko style with a shim an it looks great. Pain to make shim without band saw. Damm have a table saw, miter saw, jig saw and end up cutting it with hacksaw lol!!! Also installed Anchor cleat like Joebuckos and it came out great. Put my fire extingusher crossways under the steering wheel. keeps it away from your knees and feet. Transducer cable was a pain until I lube it. Then it pulled right through. People at the Miami Bass Pro did good. The salesman did not deliver the boat and the lead tech is involved with the delivery. Sorry about writing this novel. Im just excited


----------



## FlyItAll

Congratulations Prod1944! Hope your boat works out as well for you as it does for most of us on this thread. My boat is just over a year old now and I continue to pick up great ideas from these guys that I just have to add to my boat.


----------



## prod1944

*first ride*

Went out Sunday. Very windy and rough chop on Biscayne Bay. Wrong time to go but had to get that initial ride. Spray going out from the front of the boat was blown back on us by the wind. First time tried to anchor could not get it to hold. Wind and current very strong. Went a total of about 25 miles to another spot protected from the wind and finally anchored up. Water in the back of the boat from the spray and coming out of the livewell because of the rough chop on the bay. Live well worked when ever I turned it on everytime. traveled a total of maybe 50 to 55 miles fishing and explorering and of course just checking the boat. Used 5 1/2 gallons of gas. Thought I would find water coming out of the bottom plug when I pulled the boat out of the water but it was bone dry. Have an idea for the live well and if it works will post it. Very happy with the boat and looking forward to couple of trips this week. Now all I need to do is catch some fish and finish the breakin period. Thanks to all those that have had a lot of great imput on this message board


----------



## charliel2

Trim that nose up a bit and it'll help with the boat sneezing at ya.


----------



## scrat

lrobalo23hps said:


> I noticed the same thing with mine..but seemed hard both starboard and port..I fixed it...had them install Hydraulic steering! It's worth every penny.


Mines hard both ways also. I just deal with it. to cheap to instal hydraulics.:smile:


----------



## Winters97gt

My boat will be gone Monday. Dargel boats is taking it on cosignment. 200 hours in 14 months, it's been both a great boat and a nightmare. I caught a "boat load" of fish making the 800 mile round trip almost every week to South Padre Island. I hope the next owner enjoys it too. Tomorrow will be the last day the boat is used by a local guide in SPI for a tournament.

My Dargel 21ft Tunnel V is just a fishing machine. Goes shallower, faster, goes offshore, but burns more fuel. I rigged it with a fusion 700 blue tooth stereo system, hydraulic steering and a few other goodies last week. It pushes right up to 50mph in good air.

I learned a lot and had a blast on the boat. Wish everybody the best.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

Winters97GT:
Good luck with your new rig. Thanks for all of your postsâ€¦.the good(you catch more fish in a season than I will the rest of my life, lol), the not so good, and the ugly. They have helped all of us MPS17 owners to be more aware of potential issues with our hulls. Post some pics up of your new ride when you can. Tight lines!


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## joebucko

Good luck Winters97GT
Please post pictures of your new ride. I don't know how it is possible to catch more fish than you did in your Mako but somehow I think you will try.


----------



## Winters97gt

Thanks guys! Went fishing today for Mangrove Snapper. We got about 30 in the boat by 10 so a buddy and I decided to head in and pick up a few girls at one of the bars and we took them out for a day on the water to relax and dolphin watch. The boat isn't new. It's a 2004. I actually bought it out from my dad, who's reaching the age where it's difficult for him to operate it by himself. Only has 400 hours on the whole rig.


















And the Snapper from Today.


----------



## prod1944

Good luck Winters97gt. Since you already know the boat that you have just bought sounds like you will be very happy with it. I just did my third trip this week on my new mako 17 and so far its been great. I was worried about the water issue in the hull like you had but I must have gotten lucky. Three trips and no water in the hull. Gas milage great. 118 miles by gps and google earth, on 121/2 gallons of gas. Still in break in period. Maxed out on mangrove snapper today with three prople in the boat and also put our first redfish in the boat. Could not get the snook to bite today. Steering is a tiny bit tight but very managable. Did very good in a very rough chop. Only been out 3 times but I think it would be hard to beat this complete package at the given price. Hope I can still say this 2 or 3 months from now. Again thanks to everybody on this forum for their imput.:clover:


----------



## Homestead Fl Man

Been following this thread for a while, thanks everyone for the info. I've been using my 17 for about 4 months now, and I ride it pretty hard across biscayne bay , mostly at night, to my favorite spots. My lights worked all the way home last time. But when I went to check up on my boat a week later where I store it (outdoors in my brothers yard) the nav lights nor anchor light was working. Could this be a breaker or fuse.? I don't know much about electrical but I will be looking into the manual, can anyone give me some tips on where to start. I also bought some portable lights incase this occurs while in the water. Thanks again.


----------



## KeithD.

I would go back to BPS first that stuff should be under warranty. If you want to check it yourself check the circuit breaker next to the switches. Make sure the are not tripped. See if you have power at the lights, if not check at the switch as well. I would try the BPS idea first though.


----------



## Homestead Fl Man

Thanks should be taking it in soon, odd thing is they started working , maybe it's a faulty connection .


----------



## KeithD.

Check your grounds. Sounds like a loose ground.


----------



## frankcr

If you know how to do it, minor problems are less a hassle just to fix it yourself.


----------



## pcola_fl

BPS just called to say my 2015 Pro Skiff 17 with the 60 HP is ready. Iâ€™ll run to Spanish Fort BPS tomorrow afternoon to bring it home. I had them install the trolling motor, bimini top and bow seat plate. Thanks to this site, I feel very comfortable with my purchase and look forward to sharing my experience with my new toy.


----------



## prod1944

Six trips this month and boat doing great. Do have the issue with the water splashing out of the livewell in rougher water. Installed a foam seal on top of the original seal but havent had a chance to check it yet. Went out last week end and water too rough and wind blowing 15 to 20 mph. Boat handled it ok but I will not go out in those conditions again. Top rpms at 6200 and speed at 37 mph on smooth water and playing with the trim. Had to replace one trailer bulb already. Cannot unplug lights with surge brakes on trailer. The bypass solenoid for the brakes is hooked up to the back up lights. The mechanical bypass is a pain know where. Probably should have gotten the standard trailer and put the breakaway tongue on myself. All that being said having a great time with my two sons and the boat.


----------



## mrevilo

My boat has been at the factory since early October. I have had to call about status over the weeks. The dealer and the factory have never called or emailed to let me know anything about what is going on with my boat. I have had to initiate every contact with them. I found out yesterday that my boat was completed (after I called again to see if there was any status update )and ready to ship back. No one can tell me what was done to my boat. Amazingly I did receive an email satisfaction survey from Mako asking how satisfied I was with the dealer and company...... It was very easy to complete. I'll update again when I get my boat back.


----------



## Jonc

*2015 pro skiff*

I'll bet that survey was simple to complete. Wow, evidently someone was sick on customer service quality in service day. Have you guys looked at the new white and blue 2015 Pro a Skiffs? Not sure of the blue but I do like the idea of the two tone concept.

Jonc


----------



## prod1944

*Color options*

You can choose from 5 different color options but the price is ridiculous. $470.00. I am going to check with a local company and find out what a custom wrap similar to that will cost and will post when I do.


----------



## Winters97gt

Wraps for my corvettes range from 700-1500. I'm not sure I'd wrap a boat, it can easily get dinged up at the dock or when pulling in during rough conditions to get fuel, bait, etc.


----------



## pcola_fl

I have taken the boat out three times breaking in the motor. I love this boat. Prior to the Pro Skiff, I had a 14â€™ tri-hull bass boat, so, Iâ€™ve trailer a boat for a while. Trying to get this boat on the trailer is kicking my butt, even after installing guide post. Of course, the landing is full people watching me screw up time and time again. 
The boatâ€™s steering is a bit stiff and Iâ€™m still learning how to trim correctly. It is rock steady even with choppy water. Have had no problems with the live well or water in the bilge. Threading the transducer wire with a fish tape was not fun, but once I unscrewed the boot under the center console everything went fine.


----------



## joebucko

pcola_fl said:


> I have taken the boat out three times breaking in the motor. I love this boat. Prior to the Pro Skiff, I had a 14â€™ tri-hull bass boat, so, Iâ€™ve trailer a boat for a while. Trying to get this boat on the trailer is kicking my butt, even after installing guide post. Of course, the landing is full people watching me screw up time and time again.
> The boatâ€™s steering is a bit stiff and Iâ€™m still learning how to trim correctly. It is rock steady even with choppy water. Have had no problems with the live well or water in the bilge. Threading the transducer wire with a fish tape was not fun, but once I unscrewed the boot under the center console everything went fine.


I had factory installed guide posts but removed them after getting familiar with how the boat handles. The way the bunks are designed to cradle the hull makes it pretty much self aligning(with enough practice of course). The key for me was not to back the trailer in too far. Depending on steepness of ramp I normally have the front portion of the bunks out of the water. The hull configuration makes the boat track very straight, that just leaves wind and/or tide to compensate for.

When launching I back down a bit more and float the boat off.


----------



## pcola_fl

Thanks Joe. I think you are right about having the trailer too deep. I'm going to try bunks about 1/3 covered. 
I've had the boat out four times and the only real problem has been with the iPilot. The Spot Lock seems to be working for 10 to 20 minutes and I lose the anchor icon and of course, Spot Lock. I can reset it and it will hold but then lose it again. I called Minn Kota and was asked if I losting my GPS bars. I really didnâ€™t notice, but the rep said if I lost them, the problem was most likely the trolling motor battery. I told him it was a new battery and was full charged, but he said we need to make sure before going forward with troubleshooting. Anyone else have this problem?


----------



## cnoise

*New Jack Plate*

Just got a new jack plate put on(Atlas Micro Jacker) put on. Will probably get out on Sunday to try it out.


----------



## joebucko

cnoise said:


> Just got a new jack plate put on(Atlas Micro Jacker) put on. Will probably get out on Sunday to try it out.


I have been considering changing my manual JP to the Atlas Micro Jacker. Please let us know how it changes your boat's handling/performance characteristics.

The two big changes I saw with my manual were:
-my engine is raised 1.5-2" higher than factory.
-the 4" setback allowed me to install my sideimaging sonar transducer near the center line of my boat instead of the outside starboard corner.

I'd like to have the Micro Jacker for those rough water conditions when I need to lower the engine deeper in the water to be able to trim up and raise the bow a bit higher.


----------



## daanglerguy

I hardly post anything about my expirience with the boat and since I have moved from the rio grande valley to san antonio. So, I went from sal water to fresh water. I jeard about calaveras lake and their red drum, but no luck so far. Any other lakes to try out?


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*jack plate*



cnoise said:


> Just got a new jack plate put on(Atlas Micro Jacker) put on. Will probably get out on Sunday to try it out.


Cnoise, your JP looks great. i'm interested in knowing if the steering resistance
is adversely affected (much stiffer than stock?). I have a CMC manual JP that i am procrastinating about installing.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*Recent visit to Bass Pro*

i was in BP Sunday looking at turkey fryer equipment and of course i somehow found myself in the boat section, lol.

i was looking over a newer 17PS for any running changes that might have occurred since my 2013 model. i did notice a different bilge reshaping and component layout. a truer low spot has been enlarged in front of the rear rigging tube that allows the bilge pump mounting. since the bilge pump has been moved forward, the live well pump now resides back to port side where it was originally on earlier models. the E-Z pump cover also sports three (3) 3/16th's holes in the top. the latter has been in use for the past year or so.

progress is progress, albeit at a glacial pace. cheers!


----------



## jeh

daanglerguy said:


> I hardly post anything about my expirience with the boat and since I have moved from the rio grande valley to san antonio. So, I went from sal water to fresh water. I jeard about calaveras lake and their red drum, but no luck so far. Any other lakes to try out?


There is Brauning on I 37s. There is also placid in New Braunfels on I 35n and dunlap on I 10e. I drive to Rockport/Fulton for my saltwater fix on a regular basis.
John


----------



## mullethead00

As of 6 months ago, I'm the proud 2nd owner of 2012 Mako 17 from Waypoint Marine. Armed with the knowledge on the this thread, I took my boat to the Katy Bass Pro Shops for some fixes. 

I 'm posting to let you know that Doug and his service team are some class acts. I pulled up on a Saturday, and within 30min he had:

-Added a loop to fix the live well pump issue (hopefully).
-Reseated the live well drain and stopped the leak
-Installed two new straps to the cooler
-Advised me to just used a 2x4 for motor support while trailering and "installed" one.
-Gave me a spare key

All with no paperwork, while I waited and all done for free. High five BPS, you're gear is overpriced but your people are awesome.


----------



## FlyItAll

Congratulations on the new boat! I would love to find such great service, but many of us have not been so pleased with BPS, glad you found a good group. 
Happy Thanksgiving to all you Mako Skiff guys!


----------



## prod1944

*Itching to go fishing*

Been trying to go fishing for week and a half now but small craft advisory's have been in effect for Biscayne Bay out of Homestead and Florida bay out of Key Largo. Looks like might let up for this weekend. finally did the livewell mod for the air lock at the pump. Funny how that pump worked everytime when I first got it now its hit and miss. Well the mod is done now and I hope that is the fix. Found a great rubber seal to go around the livewell seat to keep the water from splashing out. If it works as good as it looks I'll post a picture. :headknock


----------



## Jonc

Please do post the pic and the where you bought it if you will. That live well issue drives me crazy.

Jonc


----------



## yeocokent

Well, I am getting ready store mine away for the winter. I pulled her out of the water to clean her up and change the lower unit oil. Straight water came out the outdrive. Maybe 4-6 oz straight water and the rest outdrive oil. I was out about 30 miles in the bay on my last run chasing rockfish....darn lucky I made it back in. Going to call basspro and take her in and call it a year.


----------



## prod1944

*livewell seal*

I found a universal weather seal for cars and trucks at Advance Auto Parts. The seal is round and has a flat bottom with a sticky surface. I have wedged it in the groove that the old seal was in and so far it looks good. I used the handle end of a plastic picnic knife to force the bottom part into the groove. The weather seal is round but hollow like a vacuum hose. I put a rope that would fit inside of the seal so it would hold its shape and not flatten out. Probably would have been better to use something like the clear vinyl aquarium hose instead of the rope but was in a hurry to see how it was going to work. It will get the test this weekend. The seal is made by AmeriSeal. Part # 13480.


----------



## prod1944

*livewell pics*

Hope these pics come through.


----------



## yeocokent

That looks good and well thought out. That leaking live well is a real pain in the rear. When I am running hard it really starts to overflow. It became a bigger nuisance this fall when we were running in colder weather. Let us know how she works and thanks for posting.


----------



## prod1944

*Live well*

Left 7:00 in the am and came back 12:45 pm. Boat ran perfect. Live well pump ran the entire time on auto. Kept 10 dozen shrimp alive until we ran out. The seal I put around the live well worked perfect. No water in the boat from the live well. Calm waters in the AM an Choppy waters in the Pm. If you use this seal make sure that you raise the seat back high enough that when you close the seat it does not roll the seal. Caught 15 keeper snapper, jacks and some that we did not see. Upper Key Largo on the gulf side. 33.5 miles, 4.5 gals of gas, max speed on gps 35.9 mph at 6100 rpm, 3 people in the boat, cooler with ice and fish, seat cooler with ice and drinks, two tackle boxes, anchor with chain and rope, two gas tanks, small dry box, and small tool box. Beautiful day on the water. And the best part going again tomorrow on the Atlantic side!!!!!!!! Yea!!!! Again I would like to thank those that have contributed to this site. From the anchor cleat on the bow to the transducer mouting on the transom and every thing in between has been right on.


----------



## joebucko

Great report Prod1944. 
The Proskiff is a very versatile boat that is simple to operate leaving enough time to use 10 dozen shrimp! You are getting very good performance numbers from your boat. What prop are you running?


----------



## FlatsCatFL

Prod1944, looks like you've got your rig dialed inâ€¦enjoy.


----------



## prod1944

*performance*

Hey Joebucko. Using the standard stainless vengence prop 13 pitch. Hey the conditions were just right. 68 degrees this morning, slight breeze at my back, black water sound in Key Largo was calm, Kept triming up until no more gain then one tap down on the trim. Ive had it to 6300, just short of 38 mph on gps, again with just the right conditions. There has been days that I couldnt reach 34mph. Temp, current, wind, chop on the water. Hey Im just happy that every thing is working right and I lucked out an dont have the water in the hull issue( I just hand tighten my drains ). Next month I should get my trolling motor. Any reccomendations on the shaft length, 48 inch, 54 inch?


----------



## joebucko

prod1944 said:


> Hey Joebucko. Using the standard stainless vengence prop 13 pitch. Hey the conditions were just right. 68 degrees this morning, slight breeze at my back, black water sound in Key Largo was calm, Kept triming up until no more gain then one tap down on the trim. Ive had it to 6300, just short of 38 mph on gps, again with just the right conditions. There has been days that I couldnt reach 34mph. Temp, current, wind, chop on the water. Hey Im just happy that every thing is working right and I lucked out an dont have the water in the hull issue( I just hand tighten my drains ). Next month I should get my trolling motor. Any reccomendations on the shaft length, 48 inch, 54 inch?


The Mercury Vengeance 13" pitch is probably the best all round prop for the Pro17 with the Mercury 60hp engine. I think its possible to run a Vengeance 14" pitch in the winter(65deg and below) but that's a pretty short window for the $$ involved. As for tm shaft length I'd suggest 45"/48" or 54". I have a 55#thrust 45" Terrova and it is fine. 
If you can swing it I do recommend you spend the extra bucks and get a TM with iPilot or the Motorguide equivalent. They give you unprecedented boat control and with the remote they can be operated from any position in the boat without a foot pedal to get in the way.


----------



## prod1944

*trolling motor*

Thanks Joebucko. I am going to go with the 48 inch shaft and will definitely get the I PILOT. Went fishing again this morning. Went across Biscayne Bay to Cesars Creek. To rough outside on the reef. Still had a great time. 12 mangrove snappers 13 to 16 inches, one nice yellow jack, one small shark, 15 to 20 porgys. 64 degrees out and first time ran with the lights on. Bay was a little rougher than I anticipated but not enough to turn me back. Weekends gone. Can't wait to go fishing and exploring again next weekend. Does the 4 blade give you a quicker hole shot or better top end?


----------



## joebucko

prod1944 said:


> Thanks Joebucko. I am going to go with the 48 inch shaft and will definitely get the I PILOT. Went fishing again this morning. Went across Biscayne Bay to Cesars Creek. To rough outside on the reef. Still had a great time. 12 mangrove snappers 13 to 16 inches, one nice yellow jack, one small shark, 15 to 20 porgys. 64 degrees out and first time ran with the lights on. Bay was a little rougher than I anticipated but not enough to turn me back. Weekends gone. Can't wait to go fishing and exploring again next weekend. Does the 4 blade give you a quicker hole shot or better top end?


I am working on the 4 blade question right now. So far I have tried two 4blade props. 4 blade mercury spitfire 14"P and a Solas Amita 13"P.

The Mercury did not do well because in the 14"P it is barely 10" in diameter. Top end was barely 33.5mph. Decent hole shot but overall mediocre.

The Solas Amita4 on the other hand is a different story. Great hole shot and very good top end. Interesting blade design as it has some cup actually cast into the prop. I should have more to report after Wednesday. I can say that it is the CHEAPEST/LEAST EXPENSIVE prop that I have tried and is impressive.


----------



## yeocokent

I run the four blade spitfire and would agree with that assessment. I have to trim it up pretty good to get up to 32-33 mph. Highest RPM is around 5800 rpm. The prop doesn't slip much at all though. The only slip I have had is when I have had it trimmed up too far and the water was pretty rough. You have me curious on the Solas though. I am going to purchase one before next spring and try it out. I would like to squeeze a bit more into it on the top end.


----------



## Part Timer

Question for all the owners - Is there any of the extras yall would have wished yall would have bought originally with the boat. Or something you wish you wouldn't have bought and added it yourself?


----------



## atexan

I added the Bimini cover for $550 when I bought mine from BPS. In retrospect I think I could have done that cheaper.


----------



## joebucko

yeocokent said:


> I run the four blade spitfire and would agree with that assessment. I have to trim it up pretty good to get up to 32-33 mph. Highest RPM is around 5800 rpm. The prop doesn't slip much at all though. The only slip I have had is when I have had it trimmed up too far and the water was pretty rough. You have me curious on the Solas though. I am going to purchase one before next spring and try it out. I would like to squeeze a bit more into it on the top end.


I am still testing the Solas Amita 4 blade 13"P prop. I was out twice this week. I did not get to do as much testing as I'd like because some fishing got in the way. The hole shot with this prop is very good regardless of load. So far I have gotten about the same top end out of it with either 1 or 2 people in the boat. 35mph @ 6000rpm with air temp below 65degrees.

I mention the air temp because the Merc 60hp is pretty sensitive to air temperature. Running this prop in the summer I can get 5600- 5700 rpm but as soon as the air cools below 65degs it will easily reach 6000+.

I haven't had the opportunity to really put the Amita through its paces since I just replaced my manual JP with an Atlas Micro Jacker. I have noticed that regardless of engine height I get very little prop slip or blowout even in turns. I think that is due to the amount of cup built into the Amita. Lots of power with this propeller and very good top end plus it is the very inexpensive.


----------



## prod1944

*Performance*

Thanks for the info Joebucko. I have some other purchases to make such as the trolling motor but after I get past those I am going to get one as a spare and give it a try. I am getting great performance now but who knows may squeak out a little more. Has anybody installed hydraulic steering. I have an interest in that but dont know what is involved an how expensive it is.


----------



## joebucko

prod1944 said:


> Thanks for the info Joebucko. I have some other purchases to make such as the trolling motor but after I get past those I am going to get one as a spare and give it a try. I am getting great performance now but who knows may squeak out a little more. Has anybody installed hydraulic steering. I have an interest in that but dont know what is involved an how expensive it is.


I am interested in the hydraulic steering topic as well. I changed my helm to the Teleflex/Seastar NFB (non feed back 3 turns) and it has made quite a difference in boat control. I no longer have to hold the steering wheel constantly. If I had gone with the 4.2turn NFB I suspect the steering would be even easier.

The two hydraulic systems I have seen are by the Baystar Seastar/Teleflex and Uflex Hyco. Both cost about the same @$500+ and require complete removal of the existing manual steering components. The install appears to be pretty straight forward but I suspect will be a PITA since you must remove the existing cable. The thought of pulling that stiff steering cable out of the already tight wiring tube makes me cringe. 
I will probably wait until I wear out the existing manual system.


----------



## lrobalo23hps

joebucko said:


> I am interested in the hydraulic steering topic as well. I changed my helm to the Teleflex/Seastar NFB (non feed back 3 turns) and it has made quite a difference in boat control. I no longer have to hold the steering wheel constantly. If I had gone with the 4.2turn NFB I suspect the steering would be even easier.
> 
> The two hydraulic systems I have seen are by the Baystar Seastar/Teleflex and Uflex Hyco. Both cost about the same @$500+ and require complete removal of the existing manual steering components. The install appears to be pretty straight forward but I suspect will be a PITA since you must remove the existing cable. The thought of pulling that stiff steering cable out of the already tight wiring tube makes me cringe.
> I will probably wait until I wear out the existing manual system.


Can't say what it involved other than about 600$ out of pocket to have the dealer do it. It is sure nice to have though. I also had them remove that factory wheel and put an Edson type wheel on with the knob. Boat is fantastic for what it's designed to do. Use it 10 times as much as my others.


----------



## joebucko

lrobalo23hps said:


> Can't say what it involved other than about 600$ out of pocket to have the dealer do it. It is sure nice to have though. I also had them remove that factory wheel and put an Edson type wheel on with the knob. Boat is fantastic for what it's designed to do. Use it 10 times as much as my others.


What system did you have installed...Baystar or Uflex?


----------



## rgourley11

Joe was length cable did you end up getting.


----------



## joebucko

rgourley11 said:


> Joe was length cable did you end up getting.


I swapped out the factory manual Teleflex helm for a Teleflex NFB helm and used the existing teleflex cable which happens to be a 16' cable. I am considering hydraulic steering but will probably wait until I have trouble with the manual system before the upgrade. I don't know what length hydraulic cables would be required.


----------



## lrobalo23hps

joebucko said:


> What system did you have installed...Baystar or Uflex?


It was the Baystar Joe.


----------



## prod1944

*steering*

You got a great price at around $600.00 if that included installation. I did a little research and the installation is pretty easy except what Joe mentioned, ( REMOVING THE STEERING CABLE AND INSTALLING THE HYD. HOSES THROUGH THE CABLE CHASE ) that is definitely a PITA.


----------



## joebucko

lrobalo23hps said:


> It was the Baystar Joe.


Thanks John,

If its convenient some time could you post a picture of your motor with the Baystar hydraulic cylinder attached. I'd like to see how much clearance the cylinder has with the motor tilted up in the stowed/trailering position.

I have my motor installed on an Atlas Micro Jacker Hydraulic Jack Plate and while underway it would be no problem since I run with the motor jacked pretty high. When trailered the manufacturer recommends that the jack plate be lowered all the way down and I am wondering if there would be adequate clearance for the hydraulic steering cylinder.


----------



## Jonc

*Stainless Rails*

Merry Christmas guys...

Has anyone researched, purchased or installed rails on your pro-skif?

Jonc


----------



## lrobalo23hps

joebucko said:


> Thanks John,
> 
> If its convenient some time could you post a picture of your motor with the Baystar hydraulic cylinder attached. I'd like to see how much clearance the cylinder has with the motor tilted up in the stowed/trailering position.
> 
> I have my motor installed on an Atlas Micro Jacker Hydraulic Jack Plate and while underway it would be no problem since I run with the motor jacked pretty high. When trailered the manufacturer recommends that the jack plate be lowered all the way down and I am wondering if there would be adequate clearance for the hydraulic steering cylinder.


Will do Joe. It will be this weekend and I'll post them Monday.


----------



## lrobalo23hps

*Baystar*



lrobalo23hps said:


> Will do Joe. It will be this weekend and I'll post them Monday.


Here you go Joe.


----------



## jorgepease

with a jack plate your clearance will differ On mine I have to jack it up a couple of inches to clear the transom when tilting all the way up.


----------



## joebucko

lrobalo23hps said:


> Here you go Joe.


Thank you John. Your pictures really help.


----------



## joebucko

jorgepease said:


> with a jack plate your clearance will differ On mine I have to jack it up a couple of inches to clear the transom when tilting all the way up.


My 4" setback will cause me to have to do the same especially since I have my motor set pretty low on the plate. When tilted up for trailering are you able to lower the JP all the way down or does the JP still need to be raised a bit?


----------



## yellowskeeter

I think you all need to give it up to bryster for one of the longest on going threads that just keeps going and going ! Great source of info for all mako skiff owners!

www.g-spotservices.com


----------



## prod1944

Great site but just keeps costing me money lol!!! Trolling motor next month. Now I just got to have hydraulic steering. By the way Jonc, look at the 2015 pictures. It has rails as an option. Do the mods and options ever stop. Do I need to attend mods anonymous or has this just became a way of life.


----------



## joebucko

prod1944 said:


> Great site but just keeps costing me money lol!!! Trolling motor next month. Now I just got to have hydraulic steering. By the way Jonc, look at the 2015 pictures. It has rails as an option. Do the mods and options ever stop. Do I need to attend mods anonymous or has this just became a way of life.


These mods are no different than the fuzzy dice, spinner hubcaps and Tennessee GoFasters we used to put on our cars. Is this a GREAT COUNTRY or what?


----------



## Jonc

*SS Rails*



prod1944 said:


> Great site but just keeps costing me money lol!!! Trolling motor next month. Now I just got to have hydraulic steering. By the way Jonc, look at the 2015 pictures. It has rails as an option. Do the mods and options ever stop. Do I need to attend mods anonymous or has this just became a way of life.


Thanks Prod1944.. Wasn't aware that was an option. Heading up to Michigan this weekend to a Tracker dealer with a buddy who's gonna by a Grizzly. I'll inquire about the rails and pricing and will post the results in case anyone else is interested.

Jonc


----------



## lrobalo23hps

prod1944 said:


> You got a great price at around $600.00 if that included installation. I did a little research and the installation is pretty easy except what Joe mentioned, ( REMOVING THE STEERING CABLE AND INSTALLING THE HYD. HOSES THROUGH THE CABLE CHASE ) that is definitely a PITA.


 Once I looked at my invoice, it was 700$, not 600$. That included installation and wheel swap. The trolling motor installation battery (12V Minn Kota) was 600$.


----------



## prod1944

*steering*

Thats still a good price installed at $700.00


----------



## JSwift

So I haven't posted on here yet but we got ours about a month ago. We've already done a decent amount out stuff to it. HDS 7 touch w/ Sonic hub 6.5" speakers , Micro power pole w/ 10' Wang Anchor, 55lb I Pilot, Atlas Jack plate. This boat has been great for us. We've got out of 4" of water with soft mud. It handles great in chop and extremely dry. There's a few more things were gonna add in the future. Probably first thing is to switch the 3 batteries we have to lithium batteries. Then probably a casting platform in the front.


----------



## Jonc

JSwift said:


> So I haven't posted on here yet but we got ours about a month ago. We've already done a decent amount out stuff to it. HDS 7 touch w/ Sonic hub 6.5" speakers , Micro power pole w/ 10' Wang Anchor, 55lb I Pilot, Atlas Jack plate. This boat has been great for us. We've got out of 4" of water with soft mud. It handles great in chop and extremely dry. There's a few more things were gonna add in the future. Probably first thing is to switch the 3 batteries we have to lithium batteries. Then probably a casting platform in the front.


Congrats on the new boat Jswift and it sounds like your well on your way. Fun boat to modify to your specific fishing style and setup preferences. I added a casting platform to mine and couldn't be happier with it.


----------



## prod1944

*Fishing*

Good looking platform. Starting the year the way it should be, FISHING!!! LOL!! Happy NEW YEARS TO ALL.


----------



## TallySkiff

Happy New Year everyone! This is the most informative and awesome thread!! Thanks!!

Haven't been able to get to the boards in a long time. We've been trying to get out on the water whenever the weather is nice and between a slammed work schedule. We're mainly fishing the Big Bend area in FL and are slowly learning the ropes. 

I've got to say.. BPS has been great helping us out since we bought the boat from them. We installed the Humminbird 899ci fish finder...a pin broke in the head unit from the power cable and they swapped it out for us. They've also been great at helping us find a Motorguide Xi5 trolling motor (80# thrust with double batteries) that wants to work. We're on our 3rd one in last the last 3 months... #1 would stop working after running it on high; #2 would shut off intermittently and the GPS wouldn't come on...currently on #3 which we took for a test run yesterday... had a good impression at first. The anchor lock worked great, but then when we went to move down a little ways and put it into high, it became sporadic again. It's currently sitting in our driveway...tested in it a garbage can today and now it's having problems coming on...anyone else having these issues? We're going to call Motorguide tomorrow to discuss and make sure we're not doing anything wrong. If we can't get it to work, I think we'll do a switch over to the MK I-pilot. 

Does anyone have a power pole installed? the buddy we fished with yesterday had one and while we were playing with our anchor (when MG died) - he would lower his pole and it looked so easy! 

Will be heading out again tomorrow on the Florida flats to hopefully find some trout and reds!


----------



## arrowhand

placed my order last night for a hummingbird gps/depth finder combo, new model- Helix 5, also ordered a Atlas mini jacker. Cant wait till start the install, but, never done a jack plate so does anyone have some pointers


----------



## joebucko

arrowhand said:


> placed my order last night for a hummingbird gps/depth finder combo, new model- Helix 5, also ordered a Atlas mini jacker. Cant wait till start the install, but, never done a jack plate so does anyone have some pointers


The Atlas Micro Jacker has a 4" setback so your existing cables will work just fine. You just need a simple way to suspend the motor while you install the JP. Here is a link showing the method I used to accomplish the same thing.
http://2coolfishing.com/ttmbforum/showthread.php?p=6182074&highlight=ladder#post6182074


----------



## atexan

*Push Pole question*

Push Pole question for this group. :question:

8' or 12'?

Fiberglass or homemade PVC?

Also how are you securing it? :camera:


----------



## Jonc

*Push Pole*

I bought an 12' expandable fiberglass pole with a couple different tip attachments. I can't imagine the 8' would be long enough in most instances standing on the aft casting platform. I Stowe mine away with SeaSuckers attached the the gunwales and it works great with the open space under the front deck. These little boats pole well after you learn the mechanics.

Jonc


----------



## Jonc

*Push pole pic*

Sorry forgot the pic..


----------



## atexan

Jonc said:


> I bought an 12' expandable fiberglass pole with a couple different tip attachments. I can't imagine the 8' would be long enough in most instances standing on the aft casting platform. I Stowe mine away with SeaSuckers attached the the gunwales and it works great with the open space under the front deck. These little boats pole well after you learn the mechanics.
> 
> Jonc


Thx Jonc - Where did the pole come from?


----------



## Jonc

*Push pole*

It's a Superstick brand Atexan but I don't remember which web site I purchased it from. I was a bit reluctant to trust the twist lock expansion concept when I bought it however it's performed great. The multiple tip attachments that come with the pole are a must as you can change them out based on whatever type of lake bed you're fishing. I give it an A plus rating.

Jonc


----------



## atexan

Found it! Thanks for the rec. Jonc

http://thesuperstick.com/product/superstick/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PtU3igZIiG0#t=228


----------



## Jbgarcia08

so this would be my first post. I have been looking around this forum for last couple of years and I have been paying real attention to this thread because I really like the looks of this boat and the low cost associated with owning this boat. hopefully this question is not too weird but is there anyone out there near the San Antonio Texas area or even the Corpus Christi area that wouldn't mind taking me on a test drive. i would compensate if that was needed. if interested pm me and set something up. thank you in advance


----------



## mmacro

*Winter break*

I fished my 17' skiff this summer. (We bought it new mid summer from BPS in Maryland) It has been a great boat. We mostly ran it in the Severn River out to Annapolis and then into the bay around Sandy Point. Had a blast catching smaller Rockfish, croaker and white perch.
I took it into the BPS marine shop for the 20 hour service on the motor. And I found a spot on the right, rear corner of the front casting deck where it is pulling up from the gunnel. Their fiberglass guy is going to take care of it, hopefully before the yellow perch start running next month.
Now that my girls are 6 and 2 years old I got my recreational crabbing license for the boat. Next is a 300' or 600' crab trot line and the wait for lte spring when the blue crabs start moving into the bay.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

joebucko said:


> I am working on the 4 blade question right now. So far I have tried two 4blade props. 4 blade mercury spitfire 14"P and a Solas Amita 13"P.
> 
> The Mercury did not do well because in the 14"P it is barely 10" in diameter. Top end was barely 33.5mph. Decent hole shot but overall mediocre.
> 
> The Solas Amita4 on the other hand is a different story. Great hole shot and very good top end. Interesting blade design as it has some cup actually cast into the prop. I should have more to report after Wednesday. I can say that it is the CHEAPEST/LEAST EXPENSIVE prop that I have tried and is impressive.


Hey there JB, I bought the Amita4 prop to try out. Did you need any additional washers/spacers when bolting on this prop?


----------



## joebucko

FlatsCatFL said:


> Hey there JB, I bought the Amita4 prop to try out. Did you need any additional washers/spacers when bolting on this prop?


No. The Amita uses the same forward spacer as your Mercury prop. So just remove the existing Mercury prop and slide the Amita in place. I believe it comes with a lock washer and nut. 
One difference you will notice with the Amita is that there is no forward/aft play with this prop. The nut tightens it securely to the shaft unlike the Merc props that use that odd Reflex hub that allows about a 1/4" of prop slide on the shaft. I predict you will like the prop.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*Amita4 Prop*

Thanks JB for the quick reply info. I've planned a fishing trip for this coming weekend with two friends. I'm hoping the Amita prop will help resolve some ventilation issues.


----------



## arrowhand

when install the micro jackplate, what sealant should I use for the transom bolts?


----------



## joebucko

arrowhand said:


> when install the micro jackplate, what sealant should I use for the transom bolts?


I used Life-Caulk sealant with my Atlas Micro Jacker.


----------



## Jonc

*Much Needed Storage*

Found some Rosewood in the shop and decided to make some much needed storage for the boat. Just a thought for you guys with leaning posts. Work shelf on top with storage underneath for keys, wallets, cell phones, etc. Its been zero here everyday for weeks so this is as close as I get to fishing. You southern boys don't know how good you have it !! Kinda old school looking but I think it works.

jonc


----------



## joebucko

Nice work Jonc. 
Rosewood is beautiful when finished. We are finally getting some near seasonal temps here in the DFW area and I am going out in the morning looking for Hybrid Stripers. Should be 45+ when I start with clear 60deg by mid afternoon.


----------



## OldManOwen

Joe,
Where are you catching the Hybrids at?








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----------



## joebucko

OldManOwen,
I will be going to Lake Lewisville here in North Texas. It has been slow but tomorrow weather looks like it will cooperate so I intend to use all my electronics to try and locate some schools.


----------



## OldManOwen

joebucko,
Sounds like fun, take pictures for us!


----------



## Jonc

*Bimini Top Enclosure*

Go get em Joe and awesome fish Old Man Owen... Bought a bimini top this week and the next step is to make a full helm enclosure and wondering by chance if any of you guys have already done so? I don't mind the cold as I have gear for that up here but wet, wind and cold just makes you stay in and find something else to do.

I figure some type of break from the wind and rain would prolong the fishing year up here by several months.

Jonc


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*Amita4 10.5/13p prop report*

This past MLK holiday weekend I got a chance to fish with two of my buddies. I'm still running the Mako factory engine position. The Amita4 prop did indeed produce a better holeshot and midrange control through the twisties in the back country mangrove islands, and I had less ventilation (prop slip?). The top end decreased considerably running about 27mph at 5500rpm.


----------



## joebucko

FlatsCatFL said:


> This past MLK holiday weekend I got a chance to fish with two of my buddies. I'm still running the Mako factory engine position. The Amita4 prop did indeed produce a better holeshot and midrange control through the twisties in the back country mangrove islands, and I had less ventilation (prop slip?). The top end decreased considerably running about 27mph at 5500rpm.


I suspect it is your engine position. I have been switching props between my Powertech NREB 13"Pitch stainless 3 blade (pretty much identical to Mercury Vengeance) and the Amita 4 blade 13"pitch to compare performance with my hydraulic jack plate. I ran the Powertech on Monday and the Amita yesterday. The Amita definitely gives a better hole shot and is practically identical to the Powertech in both mid-range and WOT. I'll pay more attention next week but with the JP jacked up I believe I am around [email protected] and [email protected] 6000rpm. I know the Amita performs better than the Powertech when I have a 2nd person on board.

I'll tell you that it is a PITA to experiment with engine height changes without a JP because you have to remove all 4 engine mounting bolts, clean the mounting surfaces and thoroughly reseal the bolt holes each time you adjust the engine height.

Performance of this boat/engine combination is very dependent on water condition and air temp. In my experience air temps above 70degs will cost you 200-300rpm and a mild chop on the water will benefit your top end by 2-4mph. With what I call IDEAL conditions I have briefly hit 38mph with both the Amita and Powertech.

Your factory mount is in the 2nd hole position which means the Anti-vent plate on your engine is buried in the water at cruising speed. The holes on the engine bracket are .75" apart. You should be able to raise the engine two holes (1.5") without inducing any ventilation with the Amita. You may experience a little bit of ventilation at cruise in a following sea but a bit of down trim will eliminate it.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

Thank you JB for your insights, they are ALWAYS appreciated. As you might recall from some of my previous posts, I have a manual ML65 jack plate in the waiting. But having read your posts past and present on manual vs hydraulic I think I'll not bother with the manual and eventually upgrade to a hydraulic Atlas unit. I'm also wanting to get the Minn Kota I-Pilot TM. To many wants and not enough $$. I think it's time for an early raid on my 401K, lol!


----------



## prod1944

*Amita four blade*

Hey guys thanks for the info on the amita four blade. I was going to buy one to try but I think I will hold off. It looks like a jack plate would be necessary to have any gains such as holeshot and keep your top end speed if using this prop. What do you guys reccomend for a trolling battery. Will purchase a minn kota i pilot soon. Looking at a optima battery. I know there are cheaper batteries but dont know what is good or bad.


----------



## joebucko

prod1944 said:


> Hey guys thanks for the info on the amita four blade. I was going to buy one to try but I think I will hold off. It looks like a jack plate would be necessary to have any gains such as holeshot and keep your top end speed if using this prop. What do you guys reccomend for a trolling battery. Will purchase a minn kota i pilot soon. Looking at a optima battery. I know there are cheaper batteries but dont know what is good or bad.


The Amita 13Pitch 4 blade will give you a very good hole shot with or without a JP. Depending on air temp you should be able to run WOT around 5600-5800rpms. A JP will allow it the Amita to turn at 6000RPM+. If you need a spare prop I'd go ahead and get the Amita because its probably the least expensive prop you can put on this boat. I carry a spare prop in my boat for emergencies so I tend to switch between stainless Powertech and the Amita pretty regularly. As I said earlier the 4blade Amita does a better job on my boat particularly when I have a passenger.

TM batteries are pretty much a matter of personal preference anymore since there are so many choices. I run a GP27 Interstate DC marine battery with my 55#thrust Terrova. It has been a great battery. Costs about $77 at Costco. On my last boat I used a GP29 Marine DC from Walmart and it was just as dependable as this Interstate.


----------



## prod1944

*amita prop*

Thanks Joebucko. Will consider the amita for a spare. I just dont want to loose anything on the top end. Who knows jackplate might be in the near future. My next two priorites are the trolling motor and then hyd steering. I am definitely going to look into the interstate battery. Thanks again for your help.


----------



## WatcherinLa

*2013 Mako Pro 17 Skiff*

This thread was a great read. In fact, reading through these pages convinced me to buy a Mako 17. If I had time to fish, this is a great boat.

Is there another forum similar to this where you guys would recommend posting it for sale?


----------



## Aggie1127

I am sure this info is on one of the 100 something pages on here, but real quick, what is the best option for installing some sort of back rest? Does BPS have any options or should I order a leaning post or swing back cooler? Will new swing back coolers fit directly in place of stock cooler? Also, what kind of monthly payments are you guys paying from BPS? Looking to get in the 150/m range. Was thinking the 16ft. Thanks.


----------



## atexan

Aggie1127 said:


> I am sure this info is on one of the 100 something pages on here, but real quick, what is the best option for installing some sort of back rest? Does BPS have any options or should I order a leaning post or swing back cooler? Will new swing back coolers fit directly in place of stock cooler? Also, what kind of monthly payments are you guys paying from BPS? Looking to get in the 150/m range. Was thinking the 16ft. Thanks.


There are some pics of guys who have removed the cooler and had custom lean post installed. I remember seeing them. You might check this other thread

http://2coolfishing.com/ttmbforum/showthread.php?t=416841

As for BPS financing, stay away if you can. BPS doesn't finance in-house. They hooked me up with Merrick bank who has a terrible Internet reputation. The first payment was 4 hours late and they called me to threaten repossession. I refinanced with my local bank as soon as I could. My note for the 17' with accessories financed was $240.


----------



## joebucko

Aggie1127 said:


> I am sure this info is on one of the 100 something pages on here, but real quick, what is the best option for installing some sort of back rest? Does BPS have any options or should I order a leaning post or swing back cooler? Will new swing back coolers fit directly in place of stock cooler? Also, what kind of monthly payments are you guys paying from BPS? Looking to get in the 150/m range. Was thinking the 16ft. Thanks.


The only two ready made options I've seen are the Leaning Post and the Cooler with swing back. I use my seat/cooler for storage so if it were me I'd go the Swing Back Cooler route since the install would be simple and you'd still have the dry storage available.


----------



## Jonc

Aggie1127 said:


> I am sure this info is on one of the 100 something pages on here, but real quick, what is the best option for installing some sort of back rest? Does BPS have any options or should I order a leaning post or swing back cooler? Will new swing back coolers fit directly in place of stock cooler? Also, what kind of monthly payments are you guys paying from BPS? Looking to get in the 150/m range. Was thinking the 16ft. Thanks.


I installed a leaning post but a swing back cooler would work great for storage as Joe suggested. If you would like some pics, pm me and I'll send them to you. I bought the 16 and couldn't be happier with it but I typically fish solo or with one other buddy. Once per year I go on a trip where we fish 3 out of it and it's fine for that and not too cramped.

If you plan to double purpose the boat and use it as a pleasure craft, etc. I'd step up to the 17 with more HP and room as you'd have more options such as pulling a towable, etc. I've posted several times in this thread that the cooler is far too large for the 16 and it's really tight in my opinion between the aft deck and gunwhales. The 16 is really stable port to starboard but I imagine the 17 would be even more so with the added beam width.

JonC


----------



## cnoise

*Amita*



joebucko said:


> No. The Amita uses the same forward spacer as your Mercury prop. So just remove the existing Mercury prop and slide the Amita in place. I believe it comes with a lock washer and nut.
> One difference you will notice with the Amita is that there is no forward/aft play with this prop. The nut tightens it securely to the shaft unlike the Merc props that use that odd Reflex hub that allows about a 1/4" of prop slide on the shaft. I predict you will like the prop.


Is the diameter of the Amita prop 10"? Thanks in advance.


----------



## joebucko

cnoise said:


> Is the diameter of the Amita prop 10"? Thanks in advance.


Diameter is 10.5".


----------



## scrat

*chime in*

If you plan to double purpose the boat and use it as a pleasure craft, etc. I'd step up to the 17 with more HP and room as you'd have more options such as pulling a towable, etc. I've posted several times in this thread that the cooler is far too large for the 16 and it's really tight in my opinion between the aft deck and gunwhales. The 16 is really stable port to starboard but I imagine the 17 would be even more so with the added beam width.

JonC[/QUOTE]

I concur. I've got the 16 also. It handles okfor three (sometimes I squeeze my granddaughter in too) but optimal for 2. I also am dumping the yeti knockoff and going to replace it with a swing back cooler. I need the back rest at my age and don't need a cooler the size of my truck bed. lol.


----------



## cnoise

Thanks Joe. Went ahead and ordered one last night. Should get here in a few days.


----------



## flounder boy

Well let me jump in the pool. Ordered the 17 at BPS in Pearland. Delivery set for next Friday.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## OldManOwen

Can anyone link their swing back cooler installation, or where they found it? I'm looking but not seeing much. Thanks guys.


----------



## Jonc

flounder boy said:


> Well let me jump in the pool. Ordered the 17 at BPS in Pearland. Delivery set for next Friday.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Welcome Flounderboy! Not to worry, the guys on this thread will supply you ample reasons to keep spending money on your new boat!

JonC


----------



## Aggie1127

OldManOwen said:


> Can anyone link their swing back cooler installation, or where they found it? I'm looking but not seeing much. Thanks guys.


 interested in this also. just simply a drop in the same size as the origional cooler?


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*angled trolling motor deck plug*

Joebucko, where did you source your angled front plaform trolling motor plug?


----------



## texas skiffaroo

View attachment 1981114


Al talk and no pic's.


----------



## texas skiffaroo

View attachment 1981130


Entrance to Barroom bay from the fishing center


----------



## joebucko

FlatsCatFL said:


> Joebucko, where did you source your angled front plaform trolling motor plug?


The wedge shaped enclosure was on the boat when I bought it. I have searched several sites for info on it but so far have not located anything. The actual receptacle housed in the enclosure and corresponding plug is from BassPro.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

joebucko said:


> The wedge shaped enclosure was on the boat when I bought it. I have searched several sites for info on it but so far have not located anything. The actual receptacle housed in the enclosure and corresponding plug is from BassPro.


Thanks, JB.


----------



## prod1944

*Trolling motor battery*

I think I am probably going to get and interstate battery for my trolling motor unless someone out there has something good to say about a lithium battery. I have read a little about them but would sure like to hear from someone with hands on experince. Big plus, very small and very light.


----------



## John Kocurek

*New boat today, proSkiff 17ft.*

Brought the boat home today from Pearland, BP Shop. Hats off to man that started this thread, already started some minor add on, not my first boat. Person Needs something to keep himself occupied. Just saying lots of info that can be utilized.


----------



## joebucko

John Kocurek said:


> Brought the boat home today from Pearland, BP Shop. Hats off to man that started this thread, already started some minor add on, not my first boat. Person Needs something to keep himself occupied. Just saying lots of info that can be utilized.


Congratulations John,
My best additions to this boat were my fishing rods. Yea I have fiddled with the boat more than I should have but just fishing out of it has been a blast.
Enjoy


----------



## Jonc

prod1944 said:


> I think I am probably going to get and interstate battery for my trolling motor unless someone out there has something good to say about a lithium battery. I have read a little about them but would sure like to hear from someone with hands on experince. Big plus, very small and very light.


I'm leaning towards the lithium this season as well simply due to the size. I have a 24 volt trolling system and the big batteries don't fit so well under the bow on the 16. I would like to see the comparison to justify that kind of cash outlay on two batteries.

JonC


----------



## eyesneers

*power pole anchor*

I haven't been on here in a while and may have missed it, but has anybody installed a powerpole or talon? And what is your experience(love it or hate it?).


----------



## cnoise

atexan said:


> There are some pics of guys who have removed the cooler and had custom lean post installed. I remember seeing them. You might check this other thread
> 
> http://2coolfishing.com/ttmbforum/showthread.php?t=416841
> 
> As for BPS financing, stay away if you can. BPS doesn't finance in-house. They hooked me up with Merrick bank who has a terrible Internet reputation. The first payment was 4 hours late and they called me to threaten repossession. I refinanced with my local bank as soon as I could. My note for the 17' with accessories financed was $240.


http://2coolfishing.com/ttmbforum/showthread.php?p=7745777#post7745777

Scroll down a little and you can see the leaning post I had installed. Mine was custom built and allows the original cooler to be in there.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*trolling motor battery question*

hello all,

i just picked up the 12v minn-kota riptide st 55lb/54" trolling motor with I-pilot yesterday. i want to keep the battery weight as little as possible. i'm looking for recommendations for minimum group size/ah rated batteries utilizing AGM technology. i will be fishing saltwater shallow coastal area flats, passes, rivers and creeks. tidal current changes will be strong at times. i will be carrying a solar panel charger with me when camping.

i've read that some small AGM deep discharge batteries designed for the disabled person electric scooter might be an option.


----------



## marcd

*power pole response*

I have 8 ft power pole. I absolutely could not live without it now. A couple of key notes to consider. I would not try to mount to transom with the construction of the hull. Use a mount bracket off motor. Run you about $200-300 but a must.

Determine who will be fishing off rear deck. Because I am right handed & my 3 fishing buddies are I mounted to port side. If you mount on starboard (like most people) you can easily break rods on your backhand of cast when it is up.

Make sure you add a independent power switch that shuts off complete system. If you don't you can be going down the road & some random signal will make you power pole drop and while it will stop on a dime in water, doesn't work so well on asphalt.

I fish Laguna Madre out of Port Aransas, but mostly run my boat Canyon Lake, as Choke Canyon down so low. So run both fresh & salt.

I have a 55 lb Motorguide Great White 12 volt & often fish 2 straight days on water day & night. I used to carry a second trolling battery in truck & switch out after 1st day.

With powerpole I run 48 hours continuous on 1 battery with power to spare. When I am tired I sink powerpole & role out sleeping bag. Boat has never moved.

Get on the fish and need to hold a spot - no more throwing out fish buoy (unless deep water) to mark spot, I just drop the powerpole & stay on the fish.

I can assure you if you power fish like me a powerpole a must.


----------



## marcd

*Great Forum*

Been a log time viewer, finally registered.

Bought Pro Skiff 17 in Oct 2013, has been a jewel. Was looking at a bigger more expensive boat, but the Waypoint Marine dealer here in Corpus Christi was really helpful. Like many of you I originally went to the BPS in San Antonio and the 'boat' salespeople didn't know squat. I think they were originally in the shoe department the previous day.

The dealer shared a jewel of wisdom I will share: Most people buy the biggest boat they can afford and then put cheap electronics and a $20 anchor, which may be fine for the occasional fisherman. But if you really want to catch fish drop down a size and spend some money on great electronics, motor upgrade, trolling motor and Powerpole. I can attest he is correct. I power-fish up to 48 hours straight on the lake or bays.

Like many of you a dropped the $15k on the Pro Skiff 17, but upgraded to 60 HP motor, added hydraulic jack-plate, 55 lb Motorguide Greatwhite, Powerpole, TACO starboard rodholders w/bungees, Stiffy push/anchor pole, stailess stell prop, Lowrance GenII 7 inch fishfinder and 4 inch Lowrance Elite Gold on front of boat.

Since then have added a second GenII touchscreen to dash (that's right I have two on dash) with Sidescan & Insight Genesis mapping feature to create your own maps. Also Lowrance wiFi module that feeds a 9 inch tablet mounted on front of boat for viewing sidescan up there. Some lowlife stole my knockoff Yeti boatseat/cooler from the boat, so with insurance money the Waypoint dealer sold me a better cooler with tiltflipping backrest (about 4 qts smaller) which is worth every penny and a much better option. THIS IS NOW A FISHING MACHINE!

This forum has been a Godsend in helping me to address the few issues I have had like the usual baitwell issues.

Let me tell you though this boat has proven to be worth every penny I have spent and have the fishing pics to prove it. I often go out for 48 hours on the water, just running back to the dock to refuel when needed. Roll out a sleeping bag when I need some sleep & keep on fishing.

The electronics are essential for me as I fish a lot of night fishing. If you got the chops to brave it night fishing yields BIG bass & strippers on lures (just view my photo albums). But without topnotch electronics it is very dangerous running full speed around the lake in the dark.

For the money this boat is a great buy. I can compete with $40K bass boats (& usually out fish them) and run almost anywhere in the bay as well. Those bigger boats may be faster, but I'll keep the $15k -$20K and still fill my chest.

I bought a sheet of 3/4 starboard & cut my own 'sternsaver' 10.5 inches X 4 inches to facilitate both my transducers. So if any of you out there need a piece to add to stern that will take multiple transducers let me know, be glad to share with all the help this forum has been to me.

One upgrade that I recommend is putting a rear light holder mount on the dash like the old Kenner boats with 2 foot pole to get rid of that thing on the back deck w/ the 6 foot pole that gets in the way.

I'll send pics this weekend after I make the last few tweaks on the boat. Great job forum folks, keep it up.

Oh also, have seen some conversations on BPS verses independent Mako dealers. Here is the big difference. Mako sets the price of the boat the same either way, BUT dealer prep charges & set up fees are negotiable by dealers and BPS won't flex. With my add-ons the dealer discounted k prep charges. And I am the original penny pincher - and paid the same for powerpole & electronics that I would pay anywhere, so it was a true discount. Obviously dealer got the profits on electronics, but don't care as I still couldn't get then cheaper anywhere else.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

Welcome aboard, Marcd.


----------



## FlyItAll

Welcome Marcd! Just looked over your fish pics.....very nice.:fish:


----------



## eyesneers

do you have the micro pole or original powerpole?


----------



## Jonc

*All Weather Enclosure*

Final fitting before we install all of the snaps and zippers. Bought a small 12 volt ceramic heater which will at the least take the edge off and warm up the hands. this should extend the fishing year up here by 4 months unless I can figure out how to make it an ice breaker as well.!


----------



## Jonc

*Front*

All of the window curtains will roll up as well.


----------



## joebucko

Jonc said:


> All of the window curtains will roll up as well.


Neat Jonc,
How do you intend to use the enclosure? Is it mainly for heat or rain protection? How fast do you think you can travel with the curtains in place?


----------



## marcd

eyesneers said:


> do you have the micro pole or original powerpole?


I have original see pic


----------



## Jonc

joebucko said:


> Neat Jonc,
> How do you intend to use the enclosure? Is it mainly for heat or rain protection? How fast do you think you can travel with the curtains in place?


Pretty much for cold weather during late fall and early spring JoeB. The ice stays on until mid March and typically its still pretty cold up here until May. We don't have big water lakes up here with the average being around 400 acres so I don't suppose I'll ever take it above plane speed with the enclosure on. I figure I can stay out there all day with a few respites from the cold. without it, the fishing season is really only about 5 months here at best.

jonc


----------



## yeocokent

Jonc said:


> Final fitting before we install all of the snaps and zippers. Bought a small 12 volt ceramic heater which will at the least take the edge off and warm up the hands. this should extend the fishing year up here by 4 months unless I can figure out how to make it an ice breaker as well.!


WOW!!! I really like that. We froze our balls off during rockfish season this fall and that set up would definitely do the trick for us. Whereabouts in Indiana are you? I grew up on a farm around Lebanon and went to Purdue. Live in Virginia now.


----------



## yeocokent

Jonc said:


> All of the window curtains will roll up as well.


You know, I think if you moved that skiff over a bit you would have room in there for one more boat.


----------



## Jonc

yeocokent said:


> WOW!!! I really like that. We froze our balls off during rockfish season this fall and that set up would definitely do the trick for us. Whereabouts in Indiana are you? I grew up on a farm around Lebanon and went to Purdue. Live in Virginia now.


Good Deal! Another Hoosier on the Texas/ Florida thread... boiler fan here and spent many an hr. at Ross Ade and Mackey.. Fort Wayne in the crappy weather and Sylvan Lake in Noble County in the summer. You certainly get the need for the enclosure then right? Long cabin fever winters up here dreaming about getting back out on the water.

JonC


----------



## marcd

*Finally Finished Boat Pics*

Finally finished installing the last of the stuff on my boat. Go to my albums to My Boat to see all the upgrades with notes on each pic & some ideas you may be able to use. Thanks again for all the ideas I found here, now I can share a few of my own. Hope this helps someone out, my payback to all you who have shared here.


----------



## marcd

*Ice Chest solution*

I tried several ways to put ice chest in my boat without a bunch of installed brackets on the deck. I use multiple size ice chest depending on # people & how long I am out (up to 48 hrs. on Canyon Lake).

Got this idea from a fishing mag a few years back & added my own twist (see pic). The make precut non-skid mats for under your ice chest that will keep it from sliding around boat with out strapping it down.

Just go to Walmart & get a role of the shelf mat material in the kitchen stuff area. It is the type mats you cut & put under glasses. You can get a whole roll cheaper than 1 mat at a marine supply store or sporting good store.

I can load a 70 or 100 qt. chest with no straps, run around all day & it never moves. The heck with drilling holes in deck & putting down brackets to stumble on.

At the end of the day pull out the chest & roll up the mat. No fuss, no mess!


----------



## yeocokent

Jonc said:


> Good Deal! Another Hoosier on the Texas/ Florida thread... boiler fan here and spent many an hr. at Ross Ade and Mackey.. Fort Wayne in the crappy weather and Sylvan Lake in Noble County in the summer. You certainly get the need for the enclosure then right? Long cabin fever winters up here dreaming about getting back out on the water.
> 
> JonC


I spent a lot of time at a lake house on Lake Schaefer as a kid. I have gotten used to milder winters here in Virginia but we are getting nailed this winter. Did you have that enclosure locally done and if so do you mind disclosing the cost? Do you think the maker would manufacture one and deliver it?


----------



## Jonc

yeocokent said:


> I spent a lot of time at a lake house on Lake Schaefer as a kid. I have gotten used to milder winters here in Virginia but we are getting nailed this winter. Did you have that enclosure locally done and if so do you mind disclosing the cost? Do you think the maker would manufacture one and deliver it?


I'll send you a p.m.

JonC


----------



## KeithD.

*Swingback Cooler*

Has anyone listed where they purchased these from? I didn't see if that had been answered yet. Thanks


----------



## Sanren

well, after 3 weeks I finally got through all 207 pages. Mako/Tracker really does need to just link to here for the "Info" tab for the Pro Skiff, impressive amounts of information about it here. I don't have a Mako yet, but as soon as i can sell my motorcycle and Gheenoe, a Mako will be in my future. I know the OP mentioned the length as he had to fit it into his Garage. I'm in the same situation with a 20 ft 4 in. garage that it needs to fit into. I really don't care if there are millimeters between the back wall and boat, or trailer and garage door, as long as it will fit. Will even remove the drywall from the Garage side to give an extra 3 1/2 inches if need be. The question is, does anybody with a 2014 or 2015 Pro Skiff 17 with the 60hp have the overall length from the back of the motor to the tip of the trailer with the swing tongue. Is the swing tongue factory installed (deluxe trailer) or an aftermarket add on? And how about the height on the trailer? My garage opening is 6ft 8in tall, will i need to remove the wind screen to get it in and out? Not sure if the dimensions changed at all between the OP's post (2012 Mako if i remember correctly) and the newer ones.


----------



## prod1944

*Garage fit*

From the back of the engine to the swing tongue on my 2015 60hp is 20 feet. I put it in my garage cross corner and it gives me about a 1 1/2 foot of space with my garage door closed so I can access both sides of the garage with out opening the door. Its 80 inches from the floor to the top of the grabrail on the center console. The optional trailer comes with brakes, swing tongue, spare wheel/tire and torsion suspension. If I was to do it over I would get the standard trailer and by the swing coupler and install myself. Don't need the brakes on the trailer or the torsion suspension and the trailer option is not aluminum anymore. 600.00 dollars for the optiion or 85.00 for the swing coupler. That being said I have towed it 85 mph and it rides great. By the way it would have fit in the garage without the swing tongue ( cross corner )


----------



## Sanren

Thanks prod. 80 inches will just barely fit under the door, but barely fit is good enough. I went from a 2.5 car garage to a 2 car garage, so diagonal will not be an option as there is to much "stuff" packed into there. I wasn't planning on the deluxe trailer, as i don't need the trailer breaks. I drive a Ford F250 Super Duty Diesel, there will be no issue towing this thing. I was planning on the standard trailer, and just picking up the swing tongue hinge and installing it as soon as I brought it home. So it sounds like everything will fit, and that was the only thing hinging the decision on the PS 17 or something else. Now to get the other stuff sold off so i can pick up the ProSkiff and start on the mods.


----------



## marcd

*swing back cooler*



KeithD. said:


> Has anyone listed where they purchased these from? I didn't see if that had been answered yet. Thanks


Moeller Cooler/Livewell 72 qt is what I have, I bought from Waypoint Marine in Corpus Christi, But West Marine carries them nationwide (usually online order). I love mine. while I lost a couple qts I still have put 10 stripper, 2 bass, 2 small mouth bass & a 10 lb catfish on one trip with room to spare. made well & mounts to deck so can't be stolen easily, like mine by some lowlife jerk. Maybe not as ice worthy as a Yeti but I fish 48 hr trips on the lake and ice holds fine. Truth be told I don't need a 7 day ice chest. I have already fileted and cooked them by that time.

It is about 3 or 4 inches less deep so has a little more room behind the seat. Now my large BPS boat bag fits perfect there.


----------



## joebucko

marcd said:


> Moeller Cooler/Livewell 72 qt is what I have, I bought from Waypoint Marine in Corpus Christi, But West Marine carries them nationwide (usually online order). I love mine. while I lost a couple qts I still have put 10 stripper, 2 bass, 2 small mouth bass & a 10 lb catfish on one trip with room to spare. made well & mounts to deck so can't be stolen easily, like mine by some lowlife jerk. Maybe not as ice worthy as a Yeti but I fish 48 hr trips on the lake and ice holds fine. Truth be told I don't need a 7 day ice chest. I have already fileted and cooked them by that time.
> 
> It is about 3 or 4 inches less deep so has a little more room behind the seat. Now my large BPS boat bag fits perfect there.


Thanks Marcd. Great info on the cooler.


----------



## eyesneers

I love the cooler Marcd. I think I will go this route for the sake of my dad's back when he is fishing with me(78 and going strong). I like a lot of what you did with your boat. I use a yeti up front like you have the older cooler- but I just put it up on the casting deck for a quick seat on that deck- it's very stable- I can stand on it and cast if I need a better view. The only problem is I need to move it back off the deck if I am running in rough water.


----------



## jpmizelle

Awesome thread on here guys. Lurked awhile last spring before I bought my Proskiff 17 w/60. Tons of info on here thanks to ya'll. Getting ready to add electronics on it soon. What's the best way to fish wires from transom up through console? Are ya'll using a metal fishin tool to do it? Figured I only want to do it once and go ahead and run an extra set as well for future radio, etc.


----------



## atexan

jpmizelle said:


> Awesome thread on here guys. Lurked awhile last spring before I bought my Proskiff 17 w/60. Tons of info on here thanks to ya'll. Getting ready to add electronics on it soon. What's the best way to fish wires from transom up through console? Are ya'll using a metal fishin tool to do it? Figured I only want to do it once and go ahead and run an extra set as well for future radio, etc.


Yep a true value $10 metal fish tape did the trick for me. Wasn't hard at all.


----------



## Jonc

jpmizelle said:


> Awesome thread on here guys. Lurked awhile last spring before I bought my Proskiff 17 w/60. Tons of info on here thanks to ya'll. Getting ready to add electronics on it soon. What's the best way to fish wires from transom up through console? Are ya'll using a metal fishin tool to do it? Figured I only want to do it once and go ahead and run an extra set as well for future radio, etc.


When I installed mine, I kept get hung up at the rubber boot in the back, eventually removed it and then resealed it when I was done. May have been the fish tape I was using but its a snap without the boot on.

jonc


----------



## Jonc

Jonc said:


> When I installed mine, I kept get hung up at the rubber boot in the back, eventually removed it and then resealed it when I was done. May have been the fish tape I was using but its a snap without the boot on.
> 
> jonc


By the way, its not a bad idea to leave a fish string in there just in case you needed to add or replace something at a later date. Ounce of prevention = way less profanity at times..

jonc


----------



## jpmizelle

Thanks for the replies. Yes, definintely leave a piece of string or line in there for any future pulls. I was lucky with my Nautic Star, as they left one in there from the factory. Goes a long way to plan ahead.


----------



## jpmizelle

*Stereo*

How about some pics of where ya'll mounted your head unit for stereos. 200 pages and I forget what I saw where, usually only speakers mounted. thanks.


----------



## njgradywhite

Hey everyone

Have been reading this post for sometime now as well as the Mako skiff mods thread. WOW. The most information I have found on the whole web on this boat. This looks like this is the place to be. 

I just purchased a 2015 Mako ProSkiff 17 and it will be ready in two weeks for pick up. No rush for me since NJ is frozen solid at the moment. 

My first couple of question I have for you guys is pretty simple. 

1. Who keeps their boat in the water for long periods of time in a slip or dock? 
2. What do you do to keep rain water from filling the boat? extra batter and auto charger for bilge or heavy cover?
3. Any tips on bottom painting this boat's hull? The design looks like a pain in the butt to paint. 

Boat will be kept behind our shore house in water. And if you guessed it, from my name we already have a Grady for bigger fishing the bays and ocean but it is on a lift so no bottom paint needed..

Looking forward to adding to this thread once i get my rig!

Bob - NJ


----------



## Jonc

jpmizelle said:


> How about some pics of where ya'll mounted your head unit for stereos. 200 pages and I forget what I saw where, usually only speakers mounted. thanks.


For what it's worth... I bought a waterproof bluetooth speaker from an AT&T store and although it doesn't thump the sound is really pretty good. I like the portability of it from boat to boat to camper to golf cart to wherever. Just a thought.


----------



## Aggie1127

njgradywhite said:


> Hey everyone
> 
> Have been reading this post for sometime now as well as the Mako skiff mods thread. WOW. The most information I have found on the whole web on this boat. This looks like this is the place to be.
> 
> I just purchased a 2015 Mako ProSkiff 17 and it will be ready in two weeks for pick up. No rush for me since NJ is frozen solid at the moment.
> 
> My first couple of question I have for you guys is pretty simple.
> 
> 1. Who keeps their boat in the water for long periods of time in a slip or dock?
> 2. What do you do to keep rain water from filling the boat? extra batter and auto charger for bilge or heavy cover?
> 3. Any tips on bottom painting this boat's hull? The design looks like a pain in the butt to paint.
> 
> Boat will be kept behind our shore house in water. And if you guessed it, from my name we already have a Grady for bigger fishing the bays and ocean but it is on a lift so no bottom paint needed..
> 
> Looking forward to adding to this thread once i get my rig!
> 
> Bob - NJ


The new models have some paint options from the factory, I know I have seen a yellow one. Might be better idea to keep its value than painting it yourself. You would need a covered slip to keep the rain out, or run the bilge often after rains, or keep it in the yard with the plug pulled.


----------



## njgradywhite

Aggie1127 said:


> The new models have some paint options from the factory, I know I have seen a yellow one. Might be better idea to keep its value than painting it yourself. You would need a covered slip to keep the rain out, or run the bilge often after rains, or keep it in the yard with the plug pulled.


Looking at a cover to keep rain out at the moment! The boat will be at our second home and no one is there during the week. I'm there on weekends mostly. That's why I'm looking for a long term in water solution.

As for bottom paint, might have the dealer do it before i pick it up but it def will need bottom paint to keep the bottom glass clean and seaworthy and to keep those barnacles off.

Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk


----------



## pmt1317

ok guys just bought my new mako 17 skiff three weeks ago and i have seen where no one has run wire from bow to the helm or center console well i already posted in the other mako forum but i was finally able to run wires under the floor from front cavity to the center console


----------



## stang33331

pmt1317 said:


> ok guys just bought my new mako 17 skiff three weeks ago and i have seen where no one has run wire from bow to the helm or center console well i already posted in the other mako forum but i was finally able to run wires under the floor from front cavity to the center console


Hi PMT, will you be able to post some pictures how you wire from bow to center console?


----------



## pmt1317

i wiil try to get some pics tomorrow after work


----------



## rgourley11

Anyone look at the new Micro Power pole on the market. Looks like it would work on this skiff


----------



## eyesneers

I have been looking at it- comes as an option on the new year model so I guess it would work ok


----------



## MichaelMcNease

Hi, new to this and have been looking for some advise on how to mount a trolling motor on my 2013 17 ft pro skiff. I just bought the mini kota sp 55 lbs salt water trolling motor from bps. I bought the quick release as well but on the skiff it doesn't have enough flat surface to mount it right. I am hesitant on drilling holes until i Know where I want it for sure. From the few pics I have seen on here and the web I mostly see them mounted on the side of the front instead of in the center of the bow. It has to have a good over hang in order to deploy correctly but seems to fit better in the middle of the bow. I have a material that I am using for the filler space to make it level but am wanting any suggestions on better places to place it or maybe easier ways to mount this motor? Also, is it even possible to mount this think with the quick release mount. Bps wanted $300 dollars to do it but after buying all the stuff for the motor, battery, and other odds and ends was over a grand and am wanting to save some money. Any advise would help.


----------



## MichaelMcNease

*mako 17 skiff 2013*

Hi, new to this and have been looking for some advise on how to mount a trolling motor on my 2013 17 ft pro skiff. I just bought the mini kota sp 55 lbs salt water trolling motor from bps. I bought the quick release as well but on the skiff it doesn't have enough flat surface to mount it right. I am hesitant on drilling holes until i Know where I want it for sure. From the few pics I have seen on here and the web I mostly see them mounted on the side of the front instead of in the center of the bow. It has to have a good over hang in order to deploy correctly but seems to fit better in the middle of the bow. I have a material that I am using for the filler space to make it level but am wanting any suggestions on better places to place it or maybe easier ways to mount this motor? Also, is it even possible to mount this think with the quick release mount. Bps wanted $300 dollars to do it but after buying all the stuff for the motor, battery, and other odds and ends was over a grand and am wanting to save some money. Any advise would help.:texasflag


----------



## Jonc

*Trolling motor mount*



MichaelMcNease said:


> Hi, new to this and have been looking for some advise on how to mount a trolling motor on my 2013 17 ft pro skiff. I just bought the mini kota sp 55 lbs salt water trolling motor from bps. I bought the quick release as well but on the skiff it doesn't have enough flat surface to mount it right. I am hesitant on drilling holes until i Know where I want it for sure. From the few pics I have seen on here and the web I mostly see them mounted on the side of the front instead of in the center of the bow. It has to have a good over hang in order to deploy correctly but seems to fit better in the middle of the bow. I have a material that I am using for the filler space to make it level but am wanting any suggestions on better places to place it or maybe easier ways to mount this motor? Also, is it even possible to mount this think with the quick release mount. Bps wanted $300 dollars to do it but after buying all the stuff for the motor, battery, and other odds and ends was over a grand and am wanting to save some money. Any advise would help.:texasflag


There are several posts in this thread further back that will assist you in mounting your trolling motor to the bow. Click on either myself or Joebucko and search the posts and you'll find several. With over 200 pages now it's easier than flipping thru all of them.

Jonc


----------



## joebucko

MichaelMcNease said:


> Hi, new to this and have been looking for some advise on how to mount a trolling motor on my 2013 17 ft pro skiff. I just bought the mini kota sp 55 lbs salt water trolling motor from bps. I bought the quick release as well but on the skiff it doesn't have enough flat surface to mount it right. I am hesitant on drilling holes until i Know where I want it for sure. From the few pics I have seen on here and the web I mostly see them mounted on the side of the front instead of in the center of the bow. It has to have a good over hang in order to deploy correctly but seems to fit better in the middle of the bow. I have a material that I am using for the filler space to make it level but am wanting any suggestions on better places to place it or maybe easier ways to mount this motor? Also, is it even possible to mount this think with the quick release mount. Bps wanted $300 dollars to do it but after buying all the stuff for the motor, battery, and other odds and ends was over a grand and am wanting to save some money. Any advise would help.:texasflag


Most people mount the Trolling Motor to one side of the bow instead of directly down the middle. When stowed the side mount allows most of the casting deck to still be clear and provides more balanced weight distribution with the TM on the port side and the TM battery(s) under the starboard side of the bow. Here are a couple of pictures of my Terrova mounted with the aluminum quick release slide mount. Lots of people have used the Puck style quick release as well. Both work and both are a little tricky to install because of the limited space under the front casting deck. Be sure to use very large washers or backing plates under the front deck.

A 3/4" thick piece of starboard makes a perfect spacer to raise the TM level with the lip on the deck. I laid down the starboard, topped that with a piece of 1/4" aluminum plate and mounted my aluminum slide to the plate. The addition of the 1/4" aluminum plate leveled everything out and gave me a firm flat surface all the way to the edge of the bow lip.


----------



## lrobalo23hps

rgourley11 said:


> Anyone look at the new Micro Power pole on the market. Looks like it would work on this skiff


I'm curious as well. The PP website says for boats up to 1500lbs, but does add that it will work with a heavier boat. (Mako is around 400lbs heavier).
I'd like to have one, but I want it to fold down so the spike is not sticking up all the time. Wonder if the adjustable bracket can be mounted on the rear deck?


----------



## joebucko

lrobalo23hps said:


> I'm curious as well. The PP website says for boats up to 1500lbs, but does add that it will work with a heavier boat. (Mako is around 400lbs heavier).
> I'd like to have one, but I want it to fold down so the spike is not sticking up all the time. Wonder if the adjustable bracket can be mounted on the rear deck?


It should work fine. On the occasions when I need to anchor is shallow water I just carry a Stickit fiberglass anchor pin. It stows flat in my boat when not in use and is basically a manual version of the MicroPower Pole less the power(and expense).


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*Trolling Motor Pics*



joebucko said:


> Most people mount the Trolling Motor to one side of the bow instead of directly down the middle. When stowed the side mount allows most of the casting deck to still be clear and provides more balanced weight distribution with the TM on the port side and the TM battery(s) under the starboard side of the bow. Here are a couple of pictures of my Terrova mounted with the aluminum quick release slide mount. Lots of people have used the Puck style quick release as well. Both work and both are a little tricky to install because of the limited space under the front casting deck. Be sure to use very large washers or backing plates under the front deck.
> 
> A 3/4" thick piece of starboard makes a perfect spacer to raise the TM level with the lip on the deck. I laid down the starboard, topped that with a piece of 1/4" aluminum plate and mounted my aluminum slide to the plate. The addition of the 1/4" aluminum plate leveled everything out and gave me a firm flat surface all the way to the edge of the bow lip.


Great pics, JB. On the port side did you radius the starboard to match the bow curve?


----------



## joebucko

FlatsCatFL said:


> Great pics, JB. On the port side did you radius the starboard to match the bow curve?


Yes the starboard spacer on the bottom has been cut to match the angle of the bow.


----------



## njgradywhite

Haven't gotten my boat yet but will this month.

What types of plotter/sonars does everyone run?

On my Grady we run a large lowrance setup with down imaging and side scan.
I dont need this for my mako skiff since its going to be all bay and back bay use.

Thinking about getting the SP200 sonar phone unit so it syncs with my navionics app that I use.

http://store12459.americommerce.com/store/p/27-SP200-T-BOX.aspx



















Thoughts?


----------



## Scuellar

He mike how well does that mako run in shallow water? I plan on buying one and I fish the arroyo city spi areas, do I have to invest in a jackplate and cavitation plate to have the boat up to par? Please let me know ASAP


----------



## Scuellar

Sorry if anyone that runs there boat in the spi arroyo city area please give some advice on how to rigup this boat to run shallow...please help..thanks


----------



## flounder boy

*My experience*

Here is my take on the 17 Pro Skiff. *Keep in mind what the boat is for the price point*. I purchased the boat from Bass Pro in Pearland. Brent, Seth and the crew over there were very nice and listened to all of my questions and were able to answer most of them. They were able to find answers to the questions they did not have an answer for. I was skeptical about the ride, both comfort and agility. I was able to arrange a test ride in Clear Lake. I was immediately impressed with how easy it planed out with the 60 hp Merc. Top GPS speed was about 35 mph with two adults and very little gear. We ran out to the bay and put it through the paces.

I nosed and cornered every wave or wake I could find and never got wet. I was never concerned about crashing a wave or getting caught between them. I will admit the water was slightly choppy at best but I was able to find some large boat wakes. The motor accelerated very easy and never seemed to strain like it was underpowered. You better be holding on when you hit the throttle. The hull is very quiet and sturdy, I never felt any flex under my feet. The boat trailered very easy and is easily managed by one person. I was out again this past Saturday in West Bay when the winds got up a few times and I had no issue going anywhere in the bay.

I added a trolling motor, Minn Kota riptide 55 / 12v. The battery is mounted forward under the casting deck outside of the storage compartment. This motor moves the boat with ease in any conditions. I have been out in 20+ mph winds and had no trouble moving the boat. I have not had any issues with running out of juice with one battery.

I went with a Garmin gps/sonar combo with a 5â€ screen due to very limited space on the center console. The transducer is mounted on the transom.I will say I was disappointed in the performance capabilities of the transom mount transducer. It will not read depth at all when on plane. I have had it adjusted up and down a few times and seem to have found an acceptable, for now, point where it will read shallow to deep just prior to jumping on plane. I was able to talk with a Garmin rep at the Holder Fishing Show and learned this is a common complaint and it is directly due to the hull design of this boat. I would like to know if anyone has found a fix.

I also had a swim ladder fabricated since that little step and grab handle are basically useless if you have all of your wading gear on. They have a fabricator they use, the name escapes me right now, but he built an awesome ladder for that hull. It is a three step ladder with bottom step able to fold upwards when in transit. I highly recommend you call Brian in service or Brent in sales if you need a ladder for your skiff, it is well worth the investment.

I have experienced the same issues as others in the thread, such as the tach not working properly, the cooler plug not sealing and a few other minor issues typically associated with a new vehicle of any type. The staff at the Pearland Bass Pro has been easy to deal with and all concerns have been addressed in a timely manner.

As of now, I am still impressed by this â€œlittle boatâ€. It has a ton of fishing room and is very stable while static, and like I said, *keep in mind what the boat is for the price point. *I did add one other little trinket, a Bluetooth capable marine stereo. There is no large radio box to deal with, only a round interface that mounts flush in the center console. A nice stereo for less than 200.00 that also plays am/fm.

I would be interested to know if anyone has actually poled this skiff and how difficult or easy it is.I plan on using my Yeti as a platform on the rear deck.


----------



## njgradywhite

flounder boy said:


> Here is my take on the 17 Pro Skiff. *Keep in mind what the boat is for the price point*. I purchased the boat from Bass Pro in Pearland. Brent, Seth and the crew over there were very nice and listened to all of my questions and were able to answer most of them. They were able to find answers to the questions they did not have an answer for. I was skeptical about the ride, both comfort and agility. I was able to arrange a test ride in Clear Lake. I was immediately impressed with how easy it planed out with the 60 hp Merc. Top GPS speed was about 35 mph with two adults and very little gear. We ran out to the bay and put it through the paces.
> 
> I nosed and cornered every wave or wake I could find and never got wet. I was never concerned about crashing a wave or getting caught between them. I will admit the water was slightly choppy at best but I was able to find some large boat wakes. The motor accelerated very easy and never seemed to strain like it was underpowered. You better be holding on when you hit the throttle. The hull is very quiet and sturdy, I never felt any flex under my feet. The boat trailered very easy and is easily managed by one person. I was out again this past Saturday in West Bay when the winds got up a few times and I had no issue going anywhere in the bay.
> 
> I added a trolling motor, Minn Kota riptide 55 / 12v. The battery is mounted forward under the casting deck outside of the storage compartment. This motor moves the boat with ease in any conditions. I have been out in 20+ mph winds and had no trouble moving the boat. I have not had any issues with running out of juice with one battery.
> 
> I went with a Garmin gps/sonar combo with a 5â€ screen due to very limited space on the center console. The transducer is mounted on the transom.I will say I was disappointed in the performance capabilities of the transom mount transducer. It will not read depth at all when on plane. I have had it adjusted up and down a few times and seem to have found an acceptable, for now, point where it will read shallow to deep just prior to jumping on plane. I was able to talk with a Garmin rep at the Holder Fishing Show and learned this is a common complaint and it is directly due to the hull design of this boat. I would like to know if anyone has found a fix.
> 
> I also had a swim ladder fabricated since that little step and grab handle are basically useless if you have all of your wading gear on. They have a fabricator they use, the name escapes me right now, but he built an awesome ladder for that hull. It is a three step ladder with bottom step able to fold upwards when in transit. I highly recommend you call Brian in service or Brent in sales if you need a ladder for your skiff, it is well worth the investment.
> 
> I have experienced the same issues as others in the thread, such as the tach not working properly, the cooler plug not sealing and a few other minor issues typically associated with a new vehicle of any type. The staff at the Pearland Bass Pro has been easy to deal with and all concerns have been addressed in a timely manner.
> 
> As of now, I am still impressed by this â€œlittle boatâ€. It has a ton of fishing room and is very stable while static, and like I said, *keep in mind what the boat is for the price point. *I did add one other little trinket, a Bluetooth capable marine stereo. There is no large radio box to deal with, only a round interface that mounts flush in the center console. A nice stereo for less than 200.00 that also plays am/fm.
> 
> I would be interested to know if anyone has actually poled this skiff and how difficult or easy it is.I plan on using my Yeti as a platform on the rear deck.


Great write up thanks! Picking up my 2015 17' next week. Can't wait!


----------



## joebucko

flounder boy said:


> Here is my take on the 17 Pro Skiff. *Keep in mind what the boat is for the price point*. I purchased the boat from Bass Pro in Pearland. Brent, Seth and the crew over there were very nice and listened to all of my questions and were able to answer most of them. They were able to find answers to the questions they did not have an answer for. I was skeptical about the ride, both comfort and agility. I was able to arrange a test ride in Clear Lake. I was immediately impressed with how easy it planed out with the 60 hp Merc. Top GPS speed was about 35 mph with two adults and very little gear. We ran out to the bay and put it through the paces.
> 
> I nosed and cornered every wave or wake I could find and never got wet. I was never concerned about crashing a wave or getting caught between them. I will admit the water was slightly choppy at best but I was able to find some large boat wakes. The motor accelerated very easy and never seemed to strain like it was underpowered. You better be holding on when you hit the throttle. The hull is very quiet and sturdy, I never felt any flex under my feet. The boat trailered very easy and is easily managed by one person. I was out again this past Saturday in West Bay when the winds got up a few times and I had no issue going anywhere in the bay.
> 
> I added a trolling motor, Minn Kota riptide 55 / 12v. The battery is mounted forward under the casting deck outside of the storage compartment. This motor moves the boat with ease in any conditions. I have been out in 20+ mph winds and had no trouble moving the boat. I have not had any issues with running out of juice with one battery.
> 
> I went with a Garmin gps/sonar combo with a 5â€ screen due to very limited space on the center console. The transducer is mounted on the transom.I will say I was disappointed in the performance capabilities of the transom mount transducer. It will not read depth at all when on plane. I have had it adjusted up and down a few times and seem to have found an acceptable, for now, point where it will read shallow to deep just prior to jumping on plane. I was able to talk with a Garmin rep at the Holder Fishing Show and learned this is a common complaint and it is directly due to the hull design of this boat. I would like to know if anyone has found a fix.
> 
> I also had a swim ladder fabricated since that little step and grab handle are basically useless if you have all of your wading gear on. They have a fabricator they use, the name escapes me right now, but he built an awesome ladder for that hull. It is a three step ladder with bottom step able to fold upwards when in transit. I highly recommend you call Brian in service or Brent in sales if you need a ladder for your skiff, it is well worth the investment.
> 
> I have experienced the same issues as others in the thread, such as the tach not working properly, the cooler plug not sealing and a few other minor issues typically associated with a new vehicle of any type. The staff at the Pearland Bass Pro has been easy to deal with and all concerns have been addressed in a timely manner.
> 
> As of now, I am still impressed by this â€œlittle boatâ€. It has a ton of fishing room and is very stable while static, and like I said, *keep in mind what the boat is for the price point. *I did add one other little trinket, a Bluetooth capable marine stereo. There is no large radio box to deal with, only a round interface that mounts flush in the center console. A nice stereo for less than 200.00 that also plays am/fm.
> 
> I would be interested to know if anyone has actually poled this skiff and how difficult or easy it is.I plan on using my Yeti as a platform on the rear deck.


Great write up Flounder Boy. Your experience is pretty typical of the rest of us Pro17 owners. I am still astounded by the boat's dry ride in almost all conditions.
Reading depth at speed can be an issue. Fortunately both of the Humminbirds I have had on my boat(currently the HB999si) read depth at speed. It took me a while to get the transducer fine tuned but once I did the readings have been good. Depending on water conditions I still loose bottom momentarily at WOT but this usually doesn't last more than a few seconds. 
One issue that may be contributing to your depth reading problem is the angle of the transducer relative to the centerline of the boat. If mounted flush to the starboard corner of the transom without a shim the transducer 
skims the water at a slight angle.
Here is a picture of how I had to shim my 2D sonar transducer so that it skims the water correctly.


----------



## Earl3

Hey folks. I've been considering buying this MPS17/60 for the last few weeks. I wanted to do some research first so I ended up reading this ENTIRE thread over the past 6 days. Good stuff in here. I took notes and took pics of several things to consider sealing, adding, cutting, mounting, drilling, venting, etc. when I finally bring mine home. Should be real soon. So glad to have a place to read all these real world reviews from regular people. Joebucko, flats, winters, and ev1 else. Awesome job.


----------



## frankcr

Flounder boy, thanks for taking the time to write up your thoughts on the boat.

Mako is getting a lot of bad press which is not deserved since being bought by Tracker by people who do not own one. We have the tiller version which does everything we like without spending a small fortune and it handles river chop while staying dry. The common skiffs by other manufacturers will beat you to death and wet you while the Mako Skiff is just getting into its operational mode.

Any boat is a compromise. We stepped down from a 21 ft. deep vee which was expensive to operate and a horse at a ramp and purchased the Mako which only sips fuel and is easily handled at a ramp by just the two of us. We stopped making expensive offshore trips with all the aggravation of sea conditions and expense and have not looked back yet. It is a very stable platform which accepts many modifications to personalize it to your tastes.

I rate it as a best buy for our purposes.


----------



## atexan

x2 to Flounder boy for the write up. The only thing I might add is that I saw this boat as a great dual-purpose boat. I live an hour from the coast but my parents have a place on Livingston. This boat works well in both fresh and salt conditions.


----------



## lrobalo23hps

*Micro PP*



rgourley11 said:


> Anyone look at the new Micro Power pole on the market. Looks like it would work on this skiff


 Installed today.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

Very coolâ€¦


----------



## Jonc

FlatsCatFL said:


> Very coolâ€¦


Agreed... that appears to be the perfect set up for our little boats

jonc


----------



## MONSTER369

Awesome boat I just got my micro anchor for this boat and I am looking to install it myself are they any brackets that I need or any tips u can give me would be greatly appreciated


----------



## lrobalo23hps

*Micro PP install*



MONSTER369 said:


> Awesome boat I just got my micro anchor for this boat and I am looking to install it myself are they any brackets that I need or any tips u can give me would be greatly appreciated


 I had the dealer install it, but I can tell you that if you install the deck mount, in order for it to clear the end of the transom and go straight down into the water, part of it will be mounted on that lip area around the edge and the other part will need to be mounted on a piece of starboard (to keep it level). The starboard will be sealed and the whole installation looks good. They cut the starboard to the shape of the deck mount, then sealed it. I really did not want the transom mount, but that may be a possibility. I just wanted to make sure it would lay horizontally near the boat gunnels. Good luck. It is very quiet. really a glorified electric Cajun anchor.


----------



## lrobalo23hps

flounder boy said:


> Here is my take on the 17 Pro Skiff. *Keep in mind what the boat is for the price point*. I purchased the boat from Bass Pro in Pearland. Brent, Seth and the crew over there were very nice and listened to all of my questions and were able to answer most of them. They were able to find answers to the questions they did not have an answer for. I was skeptical about the ride, both comfort and agility. I was able to arrange a test ride in Clear Lake. I was immediately impressed with how easy it planed out with the 60 hp Merc. Top GPS speed was about 35 mph with two adults and very little gear. We ran out to the bay and put it through the paces.
> 
> I nosed and cornered every wave or wake I could find and never got wet. I was never concerned about crashing a wave or getting caught between them. I will admit the water was slightly choppy at best but I was able to find some large boat wakes. The motor accelerated very easy and never seemed to strain like it was underpowered. You better be holding on when you hit the throttle. The hull is very quiet and sturdy, I never felt any flex under my feet. The boat trailered very easy and is easily managed by one person. I was out again this past Saturday in West Bay when the winds got up a few times and I had no issue going anywhere in the bay.
> 
> I added a trolling motor, Minn Kota riptide 55 / 12v. The battery is mounted forward under the casting deck outside of the storage compartment. This motor moves the boat with ease in any conditions. I have been out in 20+ mph winds and had no trouble moving the boat. I have not had any issues with running out of juice with one battery.
> 
> I went with a Garmin gps/sonar combo with a 5â€ screen due to very limited space on the center console. The transducer is mounted on the transom.I will say I was disappointed in the performance capabilities of the transom mount transducer. It will not read depth at all when on plane. I have had it adjusted up and down a few times and seem to have found an acceptable, for now, point where it will read shallow to deep just prior to jumping on plane. I was able to talk with a Garmin rep at the Holder Fishing Show and learned this is a common complaint and it is directly due to the hull design of this boat. I would like to know if anyone has found a fix.
> 
> I also had a swim ladder fabricated since that little step and grab handle are basically useless if you have all of your wading gear on. They have a fabricator they use, the name escapes me right now, but he built an awesome ladder for that hull. It is a three step ladder with bottom step able to fold upwards when in transit. I highly recommend you call Brian in service or Brent in sales if you need a ladder for your skiff, it is well worth the investment.
> 
> I have experienced the same issues as others in the thread, such as the tach not working properly, the cooler plug not sealing and a few other minor issues typically associated with a new vehicle of any type. The staff at the Pearland Bass Pro has been easy to deal with and all concerns have been addressed in a timely manner.
> 
> As of now, I am still impressed by this â€œlittle boatâ€. It has a ton of fishing room and is very stable while static, and like I said, *keep in mind what the boat is for the price point. *I did add one other little trinket, a Bluetooth capable marine stereo. There is no large radio box to deal with, only a round interface that mounts flush in the center console. A nice stereo for less than 200.00 that also plays am/fm.
> 
> I would be interested to know if anyone has actually poled this skiff and how difficult or easy it is.I plan on using my Yeti as a platform on the rear deck.


 I also had a swim ladder fabricated since that little step and grab handle are basically useless if you have all of your wading gear on. They have a fabricator they use, the name escapes me right now, but he built an awesome ladder for that hull. It is a three step ladder with bottom step able to fold upwards when in transit. I highly recommend you call Brian in service or Brent in sales if you need a ladder for your skiff, it is well worth the investment.


I would love to see a picture if you have one and more information on this. I live in Charleston SC. Thanks.


----------



## Jonc

*S.S. Steering Whee*

I see where some of you guys installed S.S. Steering wheels. I'm sure this topic is buried in this thread somewhere but can somebody please relay the wheel/shaft size?

JonC


----------



## joebucko

Jonc said:


> I see where some of you guys installed S.S. Steering wheels. I'm sure this topic is buried in this thread somewhere but can somebody please relay the wheel/shaft size?
> 
> JonC


Good Morning JonC,

The original wheel was 13 1/2" in diameter and fits on a Teleflex helm with a 3/4" tapered shaft(this 3/4" tapered shaft is pretty much standard for boats this size). I believe my stainless steel wheel is a Schmidt 13 1/2" 'Defender' style wheel. There are lots of SS wheels available in all sorts of patterns.

Toughest part is getting the old wheel off. I practically guarantee it is frozen on the shaft. You are going to need some PB Blaster penetrating oil, a Wheel puller (hopefully borrowed from an auto parts store) and a comprehensive list of maritime curse words in multiple languages. Don't beat on the shaft, use the wheel puller.

Once removed, clean up and lube the helm shaft with some heavy grease, insert a new locking wedge and install the shiny new SS wheel. Simple.


----------



## Jonc

joebucko said:


> Good Morning JonC,
> 
> The original wheel was 13 1/2" in diameter and fits on a Teleflex helm with a 3/4" tapered shaft(this 3/4" tapered shaft is pretty much standard for boats this size). I believe my stainless steel wheel is a Schmidt 13 1/2" 'Defender' style wheel. There are lots of SS wheels available in all sorts of patterns.
> 
> Toughest part is getting the old wheel off. I practically guarantee it is frozen on the shaft. You are going to need some PB Blaster penetrating oil, a Wheel puller (hopefully borrowed from an auto parts store) and a comprehensive list of maritime curse words in multiple languages. Don't beat on the shaft, use the wheel puller.
> 
> Once removed, clean up and lube the helm shaft with some heavy grease, insert a new locking wedge and install the shiny new SS wheel. Simple.


I could have bet you'd have the answer JoeB. Thanks for the info and I'll brush up on my marine profanity vocabulary!

jonc


----------



## rgourley11

*Trailer wheels*

Just a head up that anyone that got a Legacy Trailer with their boat. I had the hub mount bracket almost completely break off over the weekend on mine. Trailer and boat are 2 years old. From what we could tell the welds on the hub bracket section did not penetrate correctly. See pics.


----------



## rgourley11

*Trailer welds*

Here are some pics


----------



## rgourley11

rgourley11 said:


> Just a head up that anyone that got a Legacy Trailer with their boat. I had the hub mount bracket almost completely break off over the weekend on mine. Trailer and boat are 2 years old. From what we could tell the welds on the hub bracket section did not penetrate correctly. See pics.


At BPS getting worked on now. Looks like that are going to replace the complete frame axle system and tires.


----------



## joebucko

rgourley11 said:


> At BPS getting worked on now. Looks like that are going to replace the complete frame axle system and tires.


Sorry to see that. Is that a torsion axle? Did you have any damage to your boat?


----------



## panhandlekelly

lrobalo23hps said:


> I also had a swim ladder fabricated since that little step and grab handle are basically useless if you have all of your wading gear on. They have a fabricator they use, the name escapes me right now, but he built an awesome ladder for that hull. It is a three step ladder with bottom step able to fold upwards when in transit. I highly recommend you call Brian in service or Brent in sales if you need a ladder for your skiff, it is well worth the investment.
> 
> 
> I would love to see a picture if you have one and more information on this. I live in Charleston SC. Thanks.


Very interested in seeing the design of you ladder, especially the mounting.


----------



## lrobalo23hps

*Swim Ladder*



panhandlekelly said:


> Very interested in seeing the design of you ladder, especially the mounting.


 Waiting on "flounder boy" to send pics of his ladder. I don't have one.


----------



## rgourley11

joebucko said:


> Sorry to see that. Is that a torsion axle? Did you have any damage to your boat?


The tire missed going into the boat by a 1/4". Caliper stop it from going into it.


----------



## flounder boy

*ladder pics*

I will be on East Matty tomorrow and I will take some pics of the ladder for you fellas. I will try and post them tomorrow night.


----------



## flounder boy

*Swim Ladder*

Here are some photos of the ladder BPS had made for me, and oh yeah, I included the pic of my first 30" trout caught yesterday.


----------



## panhandlekelly

flounder boy said:


> Here are some photos of the ladder BPS had made for me, and oh yeah, I included the pic of my first 30" trout caught yesterday.


Very nice, thanks for posting


----------



## KiteboarderDoug

*Steering Issues*

Just an FYI to anyone who may encounter any steering issues down the road. Our rig is a year and a half old. We noticed the steering was getting progressively worse so we greased where we were supposed to on the motor, greased end of the steering column all to no avail. Finally took it in to our Mercury guy. Turns out the bushings are bad and have to be replaced. Should turn with a finger after they are done he said. Hoping for the best and looking forward to not having to use both hands to turn the wheel.


----------



## joebucko

KiteboarderDoug said:


> Just an FYI to anyone who may encounter any steering issues down the road. Our rig is a year and a half old. We noticed the steering was getting progressively worse so we greased where we were supposed to on the motor, greased end of the steering column all to no avail. Finally took it in to our Mercury guy. Turns out the bushings are bad and have to be replaced. Should turn with a finger after they are done he said. Hoping for the best and looking forward to not having to use both hands to turn the wheel.


Thanks for the information Doug. I have heard of one other instance where the engine bearings were supposedly installed incorrectly making steering nearly impossible. I think my engine is a little harder to turn than it should be. I will get that checked while its still under warranty.


----------



## Jonc

*Changing Steering Wheel*

Changed out my steering wheel this week and my shop manager showed me a neat trick as I was about to head out to the rental joint for a gear puller. 2 man job.. grab the wheel and pull up with equal force and and a quick lite pop to the shaft with a rubber mallet and it slides right off. Well, at least mine did. He claims it works every time.

jonc


----------



## jpmizelle

Had to take mine back right after buying it last year, bushings as well. They replaced and much better now. Seems like a common problem.


----------



## yeocokent

I have seen a couple of people on this thread ask about the cost of the 100 hour service. I just had mine serviced for the 100 hour and for water in the outdrive. They inspected the outdrive and changed busted seals along with 100 hour service. Total cost was $216.


----------



## frankcr

Jonc, putting pressure to remove a hub from a tapered fit (even with a gear puller), a sharp tap is the way to go. Once the joint is in tension, the slight shock will normally free the joint. Good that you reported this as many have never worked with tapered fits and can do damage trying to do it wrong.

You normally do not lubricate the joint when reassembling the tapered fit, but there should be a key used on a steering wheel.

Yeocokent, what seals were busted or were they just worn?


----------



## yeocokent

It was just the seals on the lower unit drain plugs plus and engine oil plug. They were probably just worn and let water in the outdrive. Probably wasn't worth mentioning cause they would have changed those anyway I would think.


----------



## frankcr

Thank you for the reply. Lip seal life is measured in hours as they can wear, but if something is not running true, it is possible to damage the casing. Worried me that you could possibly have had that problem.


----------



## Jonc

*Spring Finally!!!*

The 1.5' of ice finally melted off the lakes up here so it's game on now for all of us dopes that choose to live up north. Each spring a group of us rent a cabin at a state park in southern Indiana and I was in charge of t-shirts this year. Not quite the party it used to be now that we're all in our late 50's but hey, it makes for fun t-shirts. Happy Easter to all. JonC


----------



## flityr

Hey fellas, I came on here back in July or August after reading the entire thread. Was supposed to get the boat Sept but delayed so I asked BPS to keep it till April. So, paid them today and gave instructions for equipment. 
So my question is, (and I know it's been asked but... 
Has anyone figured out how to run communication from ipilot terrova bow mounted to humminbird (899si) at console?
I can't seem to find the answer and Installer isn't sure either. 
This is a rare boat around here. (Great Lakes Ontario) 
Tks


----------



## joebucko

flityr said:


> Hey fellas, I came on here back in July or August after reading the entire thread. Was supposed to get the boat Sept but delayed so I asked BPS to keep it till April. So, paid them today and gave instructions for equipment.
> So my question is, (and I know it's been asked but...
> Has anyone figured out how to run communication from ipilot terrova bow mounted to humminbird (899si) at console?
> I can't seem to find the answer and Installer isn't sure either.
> This is a rare boat around here. (Great Lakes Ontario)
> Tks


pmt1317 has managed to run wires from the bow to the center console. Check out his description in the Mako Pro Skiff Mods thread: http://2coolfishing.com/ttmbforum/showthread.php?t=416841&highlight=mako+mods&page=16


----------



## scrat

*Running Transducer Cable*

After many, many hours of trying to run the transducer cable I felt I'd share what I found to help. I did use a cheap fishtape and had no problem pulling a string through, When I tied the string to the transducer cable and tried to pull it back through it would stick halfway through.. ugh. many ughs.  I worked at this for quite a while then had an epiphany. h:
I pulled the cable back out and retied the string to the cable in such a way that the cable would always be pointing straight ahead. then used duct tape to insure the string was coming off the connection centered over the transducer connection, building a somewhat pointy nose from around the connection onto the string, lastly greased it with liquid soap. amazingly it pulled right through without a hitch. :bounce:


----------



## joebucko

scrat said:


> After many, many hours of trying to run the transducer cable I felt I'd share what I found to help. I did use a cheap fishtape and had no problem pulling a string through, When I tied the string to the transducer cable and tried to pull it back through it would stick halfway through.. ugh. many ughs.  I worked at this for quite a while then had an epiphany. h:
> I pulled the cable back out and retied the string to the cable in such a way that the cable would always be pointing straight ahead. then used duct tape to insure the string was coming off the connection centered over the transducer connection, building a somewhat pointy nose from around the connection onto the string, lastly greased it with liquid soap. amazingly it pulled right through without a hitch. :bounce:


Thanks for the tip Scrat. Pulling wiring through that tube is a pita. I tape mine as you described but never thought to add the dish soap.


----------



## KeithD.

*Little Issues*

I was wondering if you guys have experienced the frustration of small issues with these boats? Mine is just shy of 2 years and I have had a few issues. Nothing major but just seems too frequent for something less than two years old. I have had a wire issue with the trim switch in the handle for the motor. Trailer light issues, winch support cracked, tires fell apart, cooler latches, livewell air lock, overheat horn went bad, and lastely I just replaced one of the thermal circuit breakers. These have been small but PITA things. Just wondering if any else has been there. I fish about 100 miles from home and when these things happen that far away.


----------



## joebucko

KeithD. said:


> I was wondering if you guys have experienced the frustration of small issues with these boats? Mine is just shy of 2 years and I have had a few issues. Nothing major but just seems too frequent for something less than two years old. I have had a wire issue with the trim switch in the handle for the motor. Trailer light issues, winch support cracked, tires fell apart, cooler latches, livewell air lock, overheat horn went bad, and lastely I just replaced one of the thermal circuit breakers. These have been small but PITA things. Just wondering if any else has been there. I fish about 100 miles from home and when these things happen that far away.


I had issues with my trailer lights burning out. I started unhooking the connector to the truck before launch and retrieval and have not had a bad bulb since. I suppose it was the thermal shock of the water on a hot bulb.

Aluminum winch support weld cracked so I just took the part to a local weld shop and got it repaired.

I was never happy with the cheapo tires so I replaced them with radials and so far so good. They still look new.


----------



## Jonc

joebucko said:


> I had issues with my trailer lights burning out. I started unhooking the connector to the truck before launch and retrieval and have not had a bad bulb since. I suppose it was the thermal shock of the water on a hot bulb.
> 
> Aluminum winch support weld cracked so I just took the part to a local weld shop and got it repaired.
> 
> I was never happy with the cheapo tires so I replaced them with radials and so far so good. They still look new.


outside of the cheap cooler issues and the live well air lock, I've not experienced any issues with my boat or trailer at all. however, in all fairness I trailer my boat maybe three times per year as it 's on a lift all summer. I wonder if the weekly bouncing around on the trailer is the cause of some of the problems you guys are having?

We all get there's better built equipment out there and the constant vibration of trailering can cause all kinds of connections to vibrate loose. jonc


----------



## frankcr

KeithD, I think you just described a typical trailer boat of any make used in salt water except for the winch stand issue.

Balance trailer tires, watch for alignment, and then rotate them from time to time to prevent them sitting too long on one spot. We have several trailers and it is getting expensive keeping tires on the camping trailer which sits up for most of the year.

A trim switch in the handle of a motor is a motor problem no matter what boat it is on. 

A boat truly is a hole in the water that you throw money in, but that does not stop me from enjoying one.


----------



## flityr

Thanks joebucko and pmt1317!
I sent the info to the installer. 
If all goes well I get the boat next Friday! 
The ice chunks in the StClair river are bigger than the boat so no rush of course...
I watched a trout slurping winter stones on top beside the ice sheet 4 nights last month. Couldn't get a cast to him though...too far. Was the winter from hell.


----------



## yeocokent

Getting boat ready for rockfish season. Opens on Saturday. Thought I would post some pic of the winter upgrades.




























Finally, went to replace the through hull with stainless and....ooops what was I thinkin.


----------



## joebucko

Nice upgrades yeocokent.
Were the stainless rod holders in the console a direct replacement? 
What brand did you use?


----------



## Jonc

yeah i'm with JoeB, the rod holders are way cool, great mod... The stainless rocket launchers are also perfect on the aft deck. Nicely done!

jonc


----------



## yeocokent

Thanks guys. The stainless rod holders were Sea Choice that I picked up at ace hardware for 26 bucks each. They aren't the real high dollar ones like the Scotties but work and look just fine for holders. The screw holes didn't line up so I screwed them down through a new area. The plastic is soft so it wasn't hard. I put the rod holders at the stern on last fall and used them a bit. They work really well. Plus I put some flush ones at both starboard and port stern. Heads up if you do that the casting deck has varying degrees of thickness so you want to crawl under there first to see where you want to put them.


----------



## prod1944

*minn kota riptide sp*

Hey guys I have the minn kota riptide sp I pilot. Has worked flawless once deployed on three trips since installed. Trying to deploy it is a bear. Very difficult to push the motor from the cradle it sits in. Thinking about grinding the hump that the motor has to clear to make it more manageable. Has anyone had that issue and solved it. :headknock


----------



## Jonc

prod1944 said:


> Hey guys I have the minn kota riptide sp I pilot. Has worked flawless once deployed on three trips since installed. Trying to deploy it is a bear. Very difficult to push the motor from the cradle it sits in. Thinking about grinding the hump that the motor has to clear to make it more manageable. Has anyone had that issue and solved it. :headknock


I have the same problem and they are a royal pain in the butt. I get why they make them that way as to not deploy when under way or towing. I used to cheat mine and not engage the cradle entirely until one day I hit a wake and I thought it would take the bow out when it flipped up so fast.

Just wondering if we could somehow not engage it entirely in the cradle and just latch it to a ram mount. I know some of you guys have ram mount trolling motor supports... Any thoughts?

jonc


----------



## prod1944

*riptide*

I have a ram mount on mine and it did save me a few nights back. Went out in day light came back about midnight. The bay got rough on us and the wind blowing hard. My son did not pull it back far enough and when I noticed it was out of the cradle it sits in. For sure it would have deployed if it wasnt secured by the ram mount. I use the ram mount so the head and the arm dont bounce up and down when under way. I think that I am going to find out if that cradle is replaceable and how much. If it is I am going to shave mine down to deploy easier. If it works I will let you know.


----------



## DigiCowboy

yeocokent said:


> Thanks guys. The stainless rod holders were Sea Choice that I picked up at ace hardware for 26 bucks each. They aren't the real high dollar ones like the Scotties but work and look just fine for holders. The screw holes didn't line up so I screwed them down through a new area. The plastic is soft so it wasn't hard. I put the rod holders at the stern on last fall and used them a bit. They work really well. Plus I put some flush ones at both starboard and port stern. Heads up if you do that the casting deck has varying degrees of thickness so you want to crawl under there first to see where you want to put them.


Sorry, but I am going to have to copy the SS rod holders on my skiff. Love them!

The factory holders on the 2015 have to re-done anyway, since they put like 1/8" screws in them, that fall out on the 2nd trip.


----------



## prod1944

*riptide motor cradle*

Jonc, the left and right cradle mounts that the motor sits on are only 2.39 each. I ordered two an will try to modify as much as possible so the motor will deploy easier. If it works I will post what I did.


----------



## DigiCowboy

prod1944 said:


> Jonc, the left and right cradle mounts that the motor sits on are only 2.39 each. I ordered two an will try to modify as much as possible so the motor will deploy easier. If it works I will post what I did.


Another Riptide owner here. I will be following to see how you make out with that mod as well. I tried greasing it with white lithium, but it did not help.


----------



## njgradywhite

Finally picked my 2015 Pro Skiff today. Blowing 30mph north west in NJ today so she'll get dunked tomorrow for her first run. Can't wait!

Love the way it looks with the bottom painted since it will be left in water for long periods of time.

Next step is to mount up the electronics. Going to be out bay and back bay boat.


----------



## yeocokent

Looks great and congrats! Can you let me know what kind of performance you get with the bottom paint? I leave mine in the water for a week at time but don't have bottom paint. I am thinking about it though.

Also, if you leave her in the water you will definitely want to put a float switch in her for the bilge pump. She fills up fast when it down pours.


----------



## njgradywhite

yeocokent said:


> Looks great and congrats! Can you let me know what kind of performance you get with the bottom paint? I leave mine in the water for a week at time but don't have bottom paint. I am thinking about it though.
> 
> Also, if you leave her in the water you will definitely want to put a float switch in her for the bilge pump. She fills up fast when it down pours.


Thanks! I'll keep you updated on performance. I'll be leaving it in for a couple months behind our house. Figured the bottom paint will help.

Float switch is a good idea!


----------



## jpmizelle

*Replacement Fender Products*

Had a chicky grease my passenger side of the trailer and need parts. It's at the dealer but they're dragging their feet. I have found the fender but I cannot locate the mounting bracket; It is flat alum that ubolts to the frame with mounting bracket attached coming off of it. Any ideas? Thanks


----------



## njgradywhite

New Mako is in! Runs outstanding and it really is everything I wanted. Handled a rough bay with it blowing 25mph this morning.

Just put the bigger boat in today as well.










After it sat down a bit


----------



## njgradywhite

Also digging the console cover for it


----------



## daanglerguy

rgourley11 said:


> This is what I got from Amazon 6' Ft 600 Hd 3 Bow Grey Bimini Boat Top Cover Includes All Hardware. It will fit the boats top gunnel no problem,but if you want it to fit the inside gunnel like I did remark holes on all 3 of the poles, drill out then cut off 1" from ea. Do both sides this way. Its only 46" tall so if your tall you will have to duck down a little when walking under it. From the floor of boat to the canopy is 65". You can set and drive with it up if needed. Only $115.00 shipped. Great material on canvas and poles are 7/8" and thick walled. looked at some in the local boat store for twice to three times as much and canvas was not as thick and as good looking as this one.


Thank you for pics. I was curious on the cutting of the poles, can you elaborate a little or place a closer image on the cuts it the mounted area?


----------



## njgradywhite

Any idea on fishing a snake to the back of the boat to fish through a transducer cable? I have fished a snake through but can't get it to the back boot where everything comes through.

Have no idea how to get this thing through.

Any help is appreciated!


----------



## yeocokent

njgradywhite said:


> Any idea on fishing a snake to the back of the boat to fish through a transducer cable? I have fished a snake through but can't get it to the back boot where everything comes through.
> 
> Have no idea how to get this thing through.
> 
> Any help is appreciated!


Get some steel fish tape. Put the transducer on the point. Tape it real good with electrical tape to a point so it looks like a torpedo. Lather up real good with dish soap so she slides. Start her in from the stern entry. Working her through any obstructions by ramming it back and forth. Have someone else looking at the hatch in the center console (after taking the boot thingamajigger off). Keep going until you get to the small hatch. your second person should see it. With a pair of needle nose pliers or yer fingers get ahold of it and pull it through. Fish tape + detergent makes it a pretty simple job.


----------



## njgradywhite

yeocokent said:


> Get some steel fish tape. Put the transducer on the point. Tape it real good with electrical tape to a point so it looks like a torpedo. Lather up real good with dish soap so she slides. Start her in from the stern entry. Working her through any obstructions by ramming it back and forth. Have someone else looking at the hatch in the center console (after taking the boot thingamajigger off). Keep going until you get to the small hatch. your second person should see it. With a pair of needle nose pliers or yer fingers get ahold of it and pull it through. Fish tape + detergent makes it a pretty simple job.


I have been using the steel fish tape but going form the console back to the stern with no luck.

Going to try this tactic now


----------



## njgradywhite

yeocokent said:


> Get some steel fish tape. Put the transducer on the point. Tape it real good with electrical tape to a point so it looks like a torpedo. Lather up real good with dish soap so she slides. Start her in from the stern entry. Working her through any obstructions by ramming it back and forth. Have someone else looking at the hatch in the center console (after taking the boot thingamajigger off). Keep going until you get to the small hatch. your second person should see it. With a pair of needle nose pliers or yer fingers get ahold of it and pull it through. Fish tape + detergent makes it a pretty simple job.


You my friend have saved me so much more headache. Worked like a charm!

Thanks brother!


----------



## joebucko

njgradywhite said:


> You my friend have saved me so much more headache. Worked like a charm!
> 
> Thanks brother!


The first time I did this was real pita. I left a length of paracord in place with slack on both ends for future pulls. This has proved invaluable.


----------



## njgradywhite

joebucko said:


> The first time I did this was real pita. I left a length of paracord in place with slack on both ends for future pulls. This has proved invaluable.


Did this exact thing. Next time it will be much easier!


----------



## jpmizelle

*trailer parts*

Anybody??


----------



## yeocokent

Call the trailer company and order the part? Hopefully the girls insurance covers the cost of repairs.


----------



## WatcherinLa

*Pro Skiff Motor Options*

I've learned so much from this forum. Over the past year I've made the modifications to my boat so that it's setup the way that I want it.

However, it would be nice if I could add some speed for the occasional long run across Lake Pontchartrain. Has anyone mounted something larger than a 60 hp motor? Is that the limit because of the strength of the transom, or just the limits of the boat. Is 45 mph impossible with the 17' Pro Skiff?


----------



## joebucko

WatcherinLa said:


> I've learned so much from this forum. Over the past year I've made the modifications to my boat so that it's setup the way that I want it.
> 
> However, it would be nice if I could add some speed for the occasional long run across Lake Pontchartrain. Has anyone mounted something larger than a 60 hp motor? Is that the limit because of the strength of the transom, or just the limits of the boat. Is 45 mph impossible with the 17' Pro Skiff?


During development Mako tested a larger engine on the Pro17 but found that the added weight of the 75hp made the stern sit too low in the water. A 75 4stroke adds 116lbs to the stern.

I have tested this extensively using 6 different props, manual and hydraulic jackplates, hydrofoil and different air temperatures

With the 60hp under ideal conditions the fastest speed you are going to be able to get is 37-38mph with a normal load using a Stainless steel prop like the Mercury Vengeance 13"pitch or Powertech NREB 13"pitch. Realistically you can count on achieving 35-36mph on average at WOT.


----------



## WatcherinLa

joebucko said:


> During development Mako tested a larger engine on the Pro17 but found that the added weight of the 75hp made the stern sit too low in the water.  A 75 4stroke adds 116lbs to the stern.
> 
> I have tested this extensively using 6 different props, manual and hydraulic jackplates, hydrofoil and different air temperatures
> 
> With the 60hp under ideal conditions the fastest speed you are going to be able to get is 37-38mph with a normal load using a Stainless steel prop like the Mercury Vengeance 13"pitch or Powertech NREB 13"pitch. Realistically you can count on achieving 35-36mph on average at WOT.


Thank you, thank you, thank you. I have much to learn, but would moving weight up front help? 
I seldom venture into less than 2 feet of water. I did replace the gas tank with a low profile 12 gallon.What if I moved the gas tank and rear battery up front? That would be 2 batteries and a 12 gallon tank under the front deck.


----------



## joebucko

WatcherinLa said:


> Thank you, thank you, thank you. I have much to learn, but would moving weight up front help?
> I seldom venture into less than 2 feet of water. I did replace the gas tank with a low profile 12 gallon.What if I moved the gas tank and rear battery up front? That would be 2 batteries and a 12 gallon tank under the front deck.


If you are asking me if weight forward will help you go faster I'd say no. The weight distribution is pretty good on these boats with starter battery and 6/12 gallons of fuel in the stern and a trolling motor and battery in the bow. If you don't have a TM/battery in the bow and you are experiencing some porpoising then by all means experiment with moving weight forward to balance the boat. That would also help with you hole shot but not necessarily speed.

I would get some sand bags and experiment with weight displacement BEFORE I went to the trouble of actually moving batteries and gas tanks.


----------



## WatcherinLa

joebucko said:


> If you are asking me if weight forward will help you go faster I'd say no. The weight distribution is pretty good on these boats with starter battery and 6/12 gallons of fuel in the stern and a trolling motor and battery in the bow. If you don't have a TM/battery in the bow and you are experiencing some porpoising then by all means experiment with moving weight forward to balance the boat. That would also help with you hole shot but not necessarily speed.
> 
> I would get some sand bags and experiment with weight displacement BEFORE I went to the trouble of actually moving batteries and gas tanks.


The boat rides great. I was asking if balancing the weight would help if I were to replace my 60hp with a 75hp.


----------



## joebucko

WatcherinLa said:


> The boat rides great. I was asking if balancing the weight would help if I were to replace my 60hp with a 75hp.


If you try a 75hp engine I suspect you will need to shift a lot of weight forward. That will be an interesting experiment and one most Pro17 owners would like to follow. 
Before I would do something like that I'd just double check with my insurance company to see if I was covered since the Max recommended HP for the boat is 60hp.

Good luck and keep us updated with your results


----------



## njgradywhite

Week in the water and its still floating!


----------



## frankcr

If you want something to blast across the water, there are many designs to scratch that itch. The skiff is a softer riding skiff design which is a great fishing craft in its own category and capable of good performance with smaller motors while the faster designs would be poor performers with smaller motors.

I do not believe pushing this design at high speed would be safe. Rather than repowering, one might be better off replacing the boat with a vee hull.

Just my opinion and your mileage may vary as they say.


----------



## njgradywhite

Was on the water for a full day for the first time. 

Still in the 4500 rpm break in period. After running for a couple miles around 3500-4500 rpms I slowed down to go through a no wake zone. The boat started beeping at me. 

I found out from the Mercury manual it was the intermittent 6 second alarm showing no critical issues but should be checked out.

This only happened two times while out today after long runs on the engine driving for a couple miles then when slowed down it started the beeping.


Anyone have any clue what this could be? The boat is literally two weeks old and find this veryyyy strange there are issues already.


----------



## DigiCowboy

prod1944 said:


> Hey guys I have the minn kota riptide sp I pilot. Has worked flawless once deployed on three trips since installed. Trying to deploy it is a bear. Very difficult to push the motor from the cradle it sits in. Thinking about grinding the hump that the motor has to clear to make it more manageable. Has anyone had that issue and solved it. :headknock


I was having problems also. Today I was playing with the latch when I noticed that when you push down on the release handle:
- it first releases the catch on top
- but when you continue to apply pressure it pushes against a collar above the motor and 'pops' the motor off the mount.

Maybe I am just slow - but maybe this will help.


----------



## FlyItAll

*I'll be darned!*

Digicowboy- Thanks for posting that detail about deploying the trolling motor. I have been struggling with it, but never once pushed the lever all the way down like you described. I just tried it out in the garage. When you do that, the lever pushes it 90% out of the cradle. Once it is 90% out, pushing down slightly on the head lifts the motor clear of the cradle. The only friction left will have to be just the shaft sliding.Can't wait to try it from the front deck the next time I go out.:dance:


----------



## prod1944

*riptide deploy*

digicowboy, I just read this and went into my garage and tried it. That was just too easy. I was getting ready to modify the cradle. I ordered the new ones and got them on Friday. Guess I have spares now. I thought that handle was just the release. Thanks you made my day.


----------



## WatcherinLa

joebucko said:


> If you try a 75hp engine I suspect you will need to shift a lot of weight forward. That will be an interesting experiment and one most Pro17 owners would like to follow.
> Before I would do something like that I'd just double check with my insurance company to see if I was covered since the Max recommended HP for the boat is 60hp.
> 
> Good luck and keep us updated with your results


Joe, I went back and read your post about the props, engine height and performance. I have the Vengeance prop, and with 2 people, TM and battery up front, 12 gallon gas tank, the best I can do is 32-33 mph. I also installed a hydrofoil, but didn't notice any change in top end speed. Would raising the motor make that much of a difference; 36 mph?


----------



## joebucko

WatcherinLa said:


> Joe, I went back and read your post about the props, engine height and performance. I have the Vengeance prop, and with 2 people, TM and battery up front, 12 gallon gas tank, the best I can do is 32-33 mph. I also installed a hydrofoil, but didn't notice any change in top end speed. Would raising the motor make that much of a difference; 36 mph?


Raising the engine will not make a lot of difference. With a load as you describe under ideal conditions my boat will do 35-36 at an air temperature about 60deg. As it gets warmer top end RPMs will drop. By myself last week I managed 37.8mph briefly.

My testing tells me that most Pro17s will benefit by raising the engine 1 or even 2 holes BUT raising the engine is a PITA since you must reseal the engine mount bolt holes each time to change the height. Raising it 2 holes can subject you to a little more prop blow out when trimming the engine up. I finally bit the bullet and added an Atlas Micro Jacker hydraulic jack plate. I can now fine tune the height tailored to the conditions and load. Even so the maximum gain is still only going to be a few MPHs.

The JP does give you much better control under all water conditions. Ideal conditions I can jack it all the way up and reach max speed, harsh conditions I can lower it all the way down and trim up the engine which raises the bow and still run decent speed. At very slow speed in shallow water, or stumps and weeds I can raise the engine 4 1/2" to clear lots of obstacles I couldn't clear at the original factory set height.


----------



## Jonc

prod1944 said:


> digicowboy, I just read this and went into my garage and tried it. That was just too easy. I was getting ready to modify the cradle. I ordered the new ones and got them on Friday. Guess I have spares now. I thought that handle was just the release. Thanks you made my day.


How funny as that.. Out of all of us dealing with the same problem only one was smart enough to read the manual!


----------



## DigiCowboy

*riptide manual?*



Jonc said:


> How funny as that.. Out of all of us dealing with the same problem only one was smart enough to read the manual!


Actually, I didn't read the manual either. After I figured it out, I was telling my wife and she made some comment about 3 guys and not one bothered to read the manual ....

real guys don't read manuals -AAARGGG


----------



## Jonc

*S.S. Grab Rails*

Wondering if any of you guys have purchased or explored grab rails for the Pro Skiffs? Thinking about adding side rails if possible to raise the gunwhale height a bit.

25 years on boats and never went overboard until last week. Slipped in the rain and in an instant found myself in 50 degree water, 45 degree air temp. Never thought that would ever happen but man was I wrong. Also have never worn a life vest but that's gonna change as well.

Landed on my hip on the gunwhale before I went over, thankfull it wasn't my head. Just a reminder that things happen fast on the water so don't assume it only happens to rookies guys.

JonC


----------



## prod1944

*Ss rails*

Jonc, thinking about the rails they offer as an option now. Look perfect for me but I have other priorities first such as hyd steering. I wear a vest most of the time ( I CANT SWIM !!!! ).


----------



## FlyItAll

Dang Jonc, that could have been bad news, glad you got thru it. I hope you weren't alone and were able to find some warmth quickly.

I was fishing the tailwater on the Colorado river below Lake Powell this weekend. Water was also about 50 degrees and it felt bitter cold, couldn't stand it on bare skin for more than a minute. I tripped on the front deck, didn't go in but it got me thinking about wearing some flotation device also.


----------



## frankcr

I used all the standard reasons for not wearing a PFD over the years until getting into kayaking. Know what, they are not as hot and uncomfortable as the average person thinks they are and the sense of security sure is not a bad thing. Going over in cold water, there would be no comparison between a jacket or not.

We took a swim without jackets in 45 deg water one winter, and that was one bad experience.

Happy that your tumble turned out alright and appreciate you passing the word to others. If it saved one person from getting hurt, it was worth spreading the word.


----------



## njgradywhite

Glad you were ok, that is scary stuff! 

Happened to me while duck hunting the bay years ago and that water was high 30's. I was able to get back into the boat and it was shallow enough to stand but i was soaked and weighed down with waders and heavy jackets. The waders kept a lot of the water off my lower body. Luckily I always carry a dry bag with extra clothes in it but the waders were done for the day.

On my Mako and Larger Grady we wear/carry with us the Inflatable PFDs from Cabelas (were on sale last year) when it is rough or if Im fishing alone.

The auto pfds these days are not hot and pretty comfy also are reasonable priced for an Auto pfd. Normally I fish with my brother or buddies so we keep them stowed in the front hatch. But by law in NJ you must have a throwable PFD one board so if someone goes over that throwable is the first thing to follow them into the water. 

When I go out alone, 100% I am wearing my auto pfd.


----------



## njgradywhite

Made a semi boring random video out on the boat the other day. Wanted to use my gopro!


----------



## joebucko

njgradywhite said:


> Made a semi boring random video out on the boat the other day. Wanted to use my gopro!


Nice video with appropriate music. What a gorgeous day to be on the water.


----------



## WatcherinLa

joebucko said:


> Raising the engine will not make a lot of difference. With a load as you describe under ideal conditions my boat will do 35-36 at an air temperature about 60deg. As it gets warmer top end RPMs will drop. By myself last week I managed 37.8mph briefly.
> 
> My testing tells me that most Pro17s will benefit by raising the engine 1 or even 2 holes BUT raising the engine is a PITA since you must reseal the engine mount bolt holes each time to change the height. Raising it 2 holes can subject you to a little more prop blow out when trimming the engine up. I finally bit the bullet and added an Atlas Micro Jacker hydraulic jack plate. I can now fine tune the height tailored to the conditions and load. Even so the maximum gain is still only going to be a few MPHs.
> 
> The JP does give you much better control under all water conditions. Ideal conditions I can jack it all the way up and reach max speed, harsh conditions I can lower it all the way down and trim up the engine which raises the bow and still run decent speed. At very slow speed in shallow water, or stumps and weeds I can raise the engine 4 1/2" to clear lots of obstacles I couldn't clear at the original factory set height.


I think I'll try a manual adjustable jack plate. I see one from Vance that's not too pricey, or search ebay for a used jack plate. I'm not ready to invest in the hydraulic JP without knowing how beneficial it will be for my use. I'll let you know if it makes any difference.


----------



## joebucko

WatcherinLa said:


> I think I'll try a manual adjustable jack plate. I see one from Vance that's not too pricey, or search ebay for a used jack plate. I'm not ready to invest in the hydraulic JP without knowing how beneficial it will be for my use. I'll let you know if it makes any difference.


Good idea. That is exactly what I did because I wanted to experiment with different engine heights and propellers and it worked out very well. After about 9 months I decided to go the hydraulic route for the following reasons:

1. With the manual JP I settled on two props and an intermediate position that gave me the best top end speed with the least prop ventilation. This worked out probably 90% of the time but in very harsh conditions I needed the motor lower (to raise the bow without any prop ventilation) and trying to adjust the manual under those conditions was not practical.

2. In shallow water and stump fields I needed the motor has high as I could get it but seldom took the time to adjust the JP as I would soon be back in deeper water.

When I decided to go hydraulic I went with the Atlas Micro Jacker because of the reliability and size. It's almost custom made for our Pro17 and installation is super easy.

I am sending you a PM on the subject of the Atlas Micro.
Good luck


----------



## njgradywhite

Thinking of mounting a LED light bar to the skiff (probably to the hand rail on the console) 

Does anyone have one mounted on their rig? If so, how did you mount it?


----------



## scrat

Rails? Did someone say rails? Where do I go? I've got the 16 ft skiff I would live to have the rails


----------



## Jonc

*Rails*

Good job guys posting your own overboard stories and you're all correct, the new PDF's are nothing like the old ones and we should all be wearing them. I plan to check with the Mako help center today to see if we can purchase the rails direct from the factory.

the online help chat service has goofy hrs., mostly late afternoon. I'll post my findings.. I have the 16 also and the reduced beam width makes it pretty slim walking around the helm particularly with rods in the holders. Having something to grab if need be certainly cant hurt, ****, this growing old stuff really sucks!

jonc


----------



## Jonc

*Overboard*

By the way, last year about this time I posted how I slipped on that front tunnel where there is no non skid and suggested that everyone put something on it to prevent slipping while stepping off the front casting deck. Well... guess who didn't take his own advice?

That's exactly how I went O/B last week and I now have it completely covered with self adhesive stair tread non slip from Home Depot. Trust me for those of you who have not done so, don't be a dope like me and wait until someone gets hurt. Serious design flaw by Mako putting a slick spot exactly where you step off the deck.

jonc


----------



## joebucko

Jonc said:


> By the way, last year about this time I posted how I slipped on that front tunnel where there is no non skid and suggested that everyone put something on it to prevent slipping while stepping off the front casting deck. Well... guess who didn't take his own advice?
> 
> That's exactly how I went O/B last week and I now have it completely covered with self adhesive stair tread non slip from Home Depot. Trust me for those of you who have not done so, don't be a dope like me and wait until someone gets hurt. Serious design flaw by Mako putting a slick spot exactly where you step off the deck.
> 
> jonc


Jonc
Sorry you didn't heed your own advice on covering the slick spot. I did it immediately upon reading your original post. It never dawned on me that it would be a problem but it is.
As for the rest of the safety stuff I second all of it. I am getting older and my balance is not nearly as good as it used to be so I every time out I;

1. Wear my Self inflating PFD the entire trip. It is surprisingly comfortable and I don't even know I have it on. 
2. I use my KillSwitch whenever I am under way with the main engine. That is a bit of a pain at trolling speed since I do occasionally get up and move around a bit but I am experimenting with an alternative. Until then I will just suffer through wearing it.
. I replaced the goofy transom step with a decent boarding ladder since there was no way I could ever drag my carcass back into the boat the way it was configured from the factory.
4. I have never considered rails but I might once you guys get them figured out and post some pictures.

Now get out there and catch some fish.


----------



## dk2429

Why does the post have over a million views??


----------



## Smackdaddy53

dk2429 said:


> Why does the post have over a million views??


Probably because a bunch of Mako Pro Skiff owners like to exchange information about their boats.


----------



## Jonc

Jonc said:


> By the way, last year about this time I posted how I slipped on that front tunnel where there is no non skid and suggested that everyone put something on it to prevent slipping while stepping off the front casting deck. Well... guess who didn't take his own advice?
> 
> That's exactly how I went O/B last week and I now have it completely covered with self adhesive stair tread non slip from Home Depot. Trust me for those of you who have not done so, don't be a dope like me and wait until someone gets hurt. Serious design flaw by Mako putting a slick spot exactly where you step off the deck.
> 
> jonc


Here's the skinny on the S.S. bow and aft rails from Mako H/Q

Apparently they were upgrade options on the 2014 & 2015 models and can be ordered thru your local dealer. Pricing as follows:

Bow Rails $226.89
Aft Rails: $210.72

I assume that's for the set however the person on the phone didn't know for sure. Also inquired as to how much the hull dimensions changed for the 2014 & 2015 model years compared to the older models and didn't get an answer. If any of you guys are interested and by chance swing in a BPS or other dealer perhaps we can get some clearer info.

I'm 90 miles away from the closest dealer but I'll venture up that way sometime in the future unless someone beats me to it.

jonc


----------



## dmahoney12

Here is a pic I found of the railings. I just ordered both sets. I will take some pictures after I get them installed. I just feel like it will be safer for my Son.

Dave


----------



## doughnut_cat

have the fixed the livewell issue some people were having?


----------



## prod1944

*livewell mod*

doughnut_cat. look at pages 114 thru 117.


----------



## Jonc

dmahoney12 said:


> Here is a pic I found of the railings. I just ordered both sets. I will take some pictures after I get them installed. I just feel like it will be safer for my Son.
> 
> Dave


Is your rig older than 2014 or newer?


----------



## dmahoney12

I have a 2012.


----------



## njgradywhite

njgradywhite said:


> Was on the water for a full day for the first time.
> 
> Still in the 4500 rpm break in period. After running for a couple miles around 3500-4500 rpms I slowed down to go through a no wake zone. The boat started beeping at me.
> 
> I found out from the Mercury manual it was the intermittent 6 second alarm showing no critical issues but should be checked out.
> 
> This only happened two times while out today after long runs on the engine driving for a couple miles then when slowed down it started the beeping.
> 
> Anyone have any clue what this could be? The boat is literally two weeks old and find this veryyyy strange there are issues already.


Had the tech from the Tracker Dealer I purchased the boat from come by the house to check out the alarm after I got it again last weekend.

Found out it was throwing a overfill/low oil code which triggers the alarm. Tech verified like I did that the oil was slightly higher then normal but he said it will burn off and be ok.

He also thinks the censor is faulty so he is coming by the house next week to install a new one.

Overall I'm glad I had him look at it and it was a simple fix.

I'll know more about this issue when I call him Monday since I wasnt home when he came by.


----------



## KiteboarderDoug

Sorry to beat this dead horse again but hey he's already dead right? Wife wants a trolling motor. Pretty much decided on Riptide #55 and getting ipilot later. We always fish in Sarasota Bay and if we go offshore its only on dead calm days. She doesn't like rough at all. What size shaft? Also, can I just charge my battery afterwards with my regular charger? Don't understand about these multi bank chargers... thanks as always..


----------



## joebucko

KiteboarderDoug said:


> Sorry to beat this dead horse again but hey he's already dead right? Wife wants a trolling motor. Pretty much decided on Riptide #55 and getting ipilot later. We always fish in Sarasota Bay and if we go offshore its only on dead calm days. She doesn't like rough at all. What size shaft? Also, can I just charge my battery afterwards with my regular charger? Don't understand about these multi bank chargers... thanks as always..


I have the Terrova with a 45" shaft and have never had an issue. Using your regular charger for the TM battery will work just fine. My TM battery is housed in a battery box strapped down under the front deck. I found it a bit cumbersome to hook up the charger each time so I finally added an on-board charger for convenience.


----------



## KeithD.

I have a Riptide 52 inch shaft. I like the longer shaft as the trolling motor handle sits at a comfortable height for my son and I while operating it. As Joe stated your charger will work fine but I have my battery set up as he does and the on board charger works out well. They are very easy to install and all you have to do is plug it into an extension cord.


----------



## KiteboarderDoug

*Trolling Motor Additional Questions...*

Thanks for the speedy replies....What size starboard will I need for this? My mechanic is going to put it on for me and has done plenty of this but just not on this boat. Any thing I should mention to him? Also since this is going to eat into my wives sunbathing area  is it ok to have him mount it are far left as it will go? I was going to tell him to then put the battery on the starboard side to help with the weight distribution. I guess I should get the plug too so I can take it off when I am not using it? I am pretty close to the street and don't wanna lose it after saving 3 months to buy it. Thanks again. Any suggestions and thoughts are appreciated.


----------



## KeithD.

Mine is mounted on the port side with the trolling motor battery under the deck on that same side. Remember that your fuel tank is on the opposite side so you won't run into a distribution problem. 1/2 inch starboard was used on mine. Do yourself a favor and have him install your TM plug between the TM and the edge of your boat. Mine is on the right side of the TM and you have to be very careful that you dont step on it.


----------



## prod1944

*riptide*

Kiteboarderdoug. If you are going to add I pilot I think you only have 2 choices. Riptide sp 12v is 48 inch. Riptide st 12v is 54 inch. I have the sp with I pilot and 48 inch is plenty. However I would agree that the longer shaft would be better if you are not I pilot connected. You can get longer shafts in both of these but they are 24v and 36v. I did put my plug in connection on the inside of the trolling motor and mounted the motor as far to port side as possible and keeping in mind that my bolts went all the way through 3/4 inch starboard on the deck and 1/2 inch starboard under the deck. I put my battery on starboard side in one of those battery boxes that have external connections under coated wingnuts. I bought a Stanley charger at walmart that came with connections that you can hook to your battery an leave it there. Sit your charger on the deck an plug in when ready to charge. I used my motor around 5 to six hours this Sunday at anchor mode and working the shore line. It charged back in about 3 1/2 hours. All that being said I got all the ideas from these guys


----------



## KiteboarderDoug

Prod1944. Thanks for the great info.. I didn't think about starboard underneath!!! I am assuming to disperse the stress? You also answered my question about how thick on top of the deck. Sounds like 3/4" is whats needs to get flush. You guys are awesome!


----------



## KeithD.

Yes it is 3/4 inch not 1/2 inch on the starboard. Sorry about that.


----------



## KiteboarderDoug

I am going to look for some scrap starboard on ebay. Do any of you guys remember the dimension for that? Do I need the same size piece to be used under the deck? Can the under-deck piece be 3/4" also or should it be 1/2". Thanks!


----------



## njgradywhite

Got my boat 1 month ago today. Honestly it is perfect. Was nasty wind here today and was bouncing off 2-3 footers in the bay. Handled it like a champ. Came in at low tide this morning and it handled 11 inches of water with the motor trimmed up nicely as well.

Still have yet to see another Pro Skiff on the water but that won't last long. Have had many compliments on the boat and people very interested in the design. With the new Bass Pro Atlantic City opening I'm sure more will be on the water soon. (We bought ours at a dealer)

Its also been in the water 1 month and no issues at all.

From this morning before the wind whipped up...


----------



## ADK

Here are a few pics for the guys wanting to run wires up to the front of the boat. I didn't feel any foam in the bottom of the boat.


----------



## joebucko

ADK said:


> Here are a few pics for the guys wanting to run wires up to the front of the boat. I didn't feel any foam in the bottom of the boat.


Thank you ADK.
There are lots of reasons for wanting to run concealed wires to the bow but I could never figure out how to do it.


----------



## flounder boy

Anyone set up their MPS 17 for pulling a tube? If so, what is needed?


----------



## atexan

flounder boy said:


> Anyone set up their MPS 17 for pulling a tube? If so, what is needed?


Yep - I pull my teenagers around. You need one of these

http://www.basspro.com/XPS-Titan-61-2Person-Towable-Tube/product/10226881/

and one of these
http://www.basspro.com/XPS60-4-Rider-Tube-Rope-with-Float/product/14101807421812/

and one of these
http://www.basspro.com/Airhead-Tow-Demon-Ski-Tow-Harness/product/52629/

Vendor may vary


----------



## MichaelMcNease

atexan said:


> Yep - I pull my teenagers around. You need one of these
> 
> http://www.basspro.com/XPS-Titan-61-2Person-Towable-Tube/product/10226881/
> 
> and one of these
> http://www.basspro.com/XPS60-4-Rider-Tube-Rope-with-Float/product/14101807421812/
> 
> and one of these
> http://www.basspro.com/Airhead-Tow-Demon-Ski-Tow-Harness/product/52629/
> 
> Vendor may vary


Do you have any pictures of what you tie the rope on to so that it's higher then the motor for towing a tube, or what do you tie the tow rope onto?


----------



## atexan

MichaelMcNease said:


> Do you have any pictures of what you tie the rope on to so that it's higher then the motor for towing a tube, or what do you tie the tow rope onto?


I don't lift it up over the motor. I hook the harness to the rear transom rings and have one kid pay attention to keep it all out of the prop.


----------



## yeocokent

njgradywhite said:


> Got my boat 1 month ago today. Honestly it is perfect. Was nasty wind here today and was bouncing off 2-3 footers in the bay. Handled it like a champ. Came in at low tide this morning and it handled 11 inches of water with the motor trimmed up nicely as well.
> 
> Still have yet to see another Pro Skiff on the water but that won't last long. Have had many compliments on the boat and people very interested in the design. With the new Bass Pro Atlantic City opening I'm sure more will be on the water soon. (We bought ours at a dealer)
> 
> Its also been in the water 1 month and no issues at all.
> 
> From this morning before the wind whipped up...


 Beautiful pic! Can I ask what kind of performance you are getting with the bottom paint? I either need to put a boat lift in or apply some bottom paint. Bottom paint is my cheaper option. Also, I don't see any of these out where I fish too. I fish the lower Potomac ...lower Middle Bay area. Tangier, Smith Point, Point Lookout, St. Georges....boat really is a lot for the money for this area.


----------



## yeocokent

ADK said:


> Here are a few pics for the guys wanting to run wires up to the front of the boat. I didn't feel any foam in the bottom of the boat.


Thanks! How hard was it to get the wire to that hole from the center consul? I would really like to put the running lights on the bow and get them off the center consul rails. Plus would like to run some wires up there for stereo speakers amongst a few other things! Also, do you reckon that little hole you cut breaches the hull warranty?


----------



## ADK

yeocokent said:


> Thanks! How hard was it to get the wire to that hole from the center consul? I would really like to put the running lights on the bow and get them off the center consul rails. Plus would like to run some wires up there for stereo speakers amongst a few other things! Also, do you reckon that little hole you cut breaches the hull warranty?


 It wasn't really too hard. I used pin flags taped together, because they're straight. I got it lined up with the hole on the first shot. As far as the warranty goes, I'm not sure. I wasn't really too concerned with that. I don't see it being any worse than drilling holes in your transom for power poles, transducers, and other things.

I originally wanted to run the wires all the way to the access hatch for the front eye nuts, but on my boat I couldn't get the wire all the way there. I believe the two halves of the boat join together at the top of the hump under the deck.


----------



## ADK

Both holes are 3/4" in dia.


----------



## Sanren

Just signed the paperwork for my ProSkiff 17. I need to get the Fulton swing tongue hinge so it will fit in my garage, but while I was at BPS i forgot to measure the tongue of the trailer. Does anybody know what size hinge i need to get? I'm guessing 3"x4" but i'm not sure and don't want to order the wrong size.


----------



## MichaelMcNease

Sanren said:


> Just signed the paperwork for my ProSkiff 17. I need to get the Fulton swing tongue hinge so it will fit in my garage, but while I was at BPS i forgot to measure the tongue of the trailer. Does anybody know what size hinge i need to get? I'm guessing 3"x4" but i'm not sure and don't want to order the wrong size.


Yes the 3"x4" is what came with my fold away tongue on my trailer. Fits exactly in my garage after i lower the motor and turn sideways a little. Boat and trailer fit in straight thou perfectly. Only problem i have is with the surge brakes since i have an inclined driveway but fixed this problem with 2 nickles and a c clamp in the holes so that I am able to back it up hills. Good luck with the new boat, you will enjoy it.


----------



## njgradywhite

Follow up to the alarms I have been getting in my 2015 Mako Proakiff with 60hp Mercury.

The dealer came out and replaced oil censors to try and fix the problem. Ran the boat again and alarms still sounding. Codes reading oil overfill/underfill.

Finally just brought it back to the dealer and they kept it for a week. Changing out the idle air control valve and sensors since the computer was showing it wasnt working properly and coming into idle while still at high rpms. They ran the boat and alarms still sounding.

They have been in touch with Mercury from day one and have walked them through about every change and fix that the dealer and mercury knows. 

Looks like now the solution is to replace the outboard with a new one from Mercury next week. Might be computer issues with engine. Thank got for the warranty!

The dealer that I bought the boat from is top notch and is really taking care of the situation. Motor has about 20 hours on it and its going to be replaced. **** shame but at least this should fix my issues!


----------



## panhandlekelly

*Boarding ladder.*

I know it is a pita, but one of you modified the mounting of an over the counter transom mount ladder. I've been looking through the pages for a while now with no luck. Would appreciate your help! Wish there was a better way to search for a subject.


----------



## joebucko

panhandlekelly said:


> I know it is a pita, but one of you modified the mounting of an over the counter transom mount ladder. I've been looking through the pages for a while now with no luck. Would appreciate your help! Wish there was a better way to search for a subject.


Here are a pictures of my ladder and how it is installed. The only draw back to this particular telescoping ladder is the bottom swings freely when extended making it a bit tough to climb. There are similar ladders which do not swing free at the bottom.


----------



## panhandlekelly

joebucko said:


> Here are a pictures of my ladder and how it is installed. The only draw back to this particular telescoping ladder is the bottom swings freely when extended making it a bit tough to climb. There are similar ladders which do not swing free at the bottom.


Thank you so much.


----------



## WatcherinLa

*4 blade prop*



joebucko said:


> Ran the boat today with two people and full fishing gear load. The 4 blade propeller definitely has more power. I recorded the same performance numbers as I did with just me in the boat.
> 
> Still looking for feedback on the Mercury 4 blade propellers Spitfire or Trophy Sport (or any other brand). I'd really like to get me WOT rpm slightly above 6000rpm. Currently just barely making 5800.


Did you ever get any feedback on the Spitfire props? I don' want to lose top end, but I'm trying to solve the blow out issue when running across Lake Borgne in 2 foot chop.


----------



## flounder boy

panhandlekelly said:


> I know it is a pita, but one of you modified the mounting of an over the counter transom mount ladder. I've been looking through the pages for a while now with no luck. Would appreciate your help! Wish there was a better way to search for a subject.


Search back a few pages and you will pics of the ladder bass pro had made for me. It was a little pricier than an off the shelf ladder but well worth the money.


----------



## ADK

Recently purchased a 13 pitch spitfire 4 blade. I don't have exact numbers, but compared to my 13 pitch vengeance 3 blade: RPM's climbed from 5800 to 6200 plus..couple Mph slower on the top end but hole shot was better and I was able to trim the motor up with out the boat porpoising. I think I. Should have gone with a 14 pitch. I had to back off the throttle pretty good to keep the rpms from going through the roof.


----------



## WatcherinLa

*Props*

I ordered one of the Amita 4 blade, 13p x 10.5. I thought about going to 14p for that same reason. I'll check it out next weekend and give you some feedback on that one. It was just over $100 delivered, so I may get the 14P too if I end up slower at higher RPM.


----------



## joebucko

WatcherinLa said:


> I ordered one of the Amita 4 blade, 13p x 10.5. I thought about going to 14p for that same reason. I'll check it out next weekend and give you some feedback on that one. It was just over $100 delivered, so I may get the 14P too if I end up slower at higher RPM.


My Solas Amita 4 blade 13P is pretty consistent running between 5800-6000rpms depending on air temp. It pushes my boat around 35mph. Fastest I ever got was 38mph but that was with moderate chop and a strong wind to my back. 
Keep us posted if you try the 14"P.


----------



## WatcherinLa

joebucko said:


> My Solas Amita 4 blade 13P is pretty consistent running between 5800-6000rpms depending on air temp. It pushes my boat around 35mph. Fastest I ever got was 38mph but that was with moderate chop and a strong wind to my back.
> Keep us posted if you try the 14"P.


Have you noticed much of a change in fuel consumption with the 4 blade?

I removed my live well and moved 2 fuel tanks to that location. The boat just seems to ride better at higher speeds, and I have 11.6 gallons of fuel. With the occasional long runs I need to make across the big lakes, I can burn 6 gallons during the day. Peace of mind is good thing.

Plus, I now have all that space under the deck for tackle and gear. My battery is now in the center rear, too.


----------



## joebucko

WatcherinLa said:


> Have you noticed much of a change in fuel consumption with the 4 blade?
> 
> I removed my live well and moved 2 fuel tanks to that location. The boat just seems to ride better at higher speeds, and I have 11.6 gallons of fuel. With the occasional long runs I need to make across the big lakes, I can burn 6 gallons during the day. Peace of mind is good thing.
> 
> Plus, I now have all that space under the deck for tackle and gear. My battery is now in the center rear, too.


I don't keep track of the fuel consumption as I normally don't burn more than 2 gals on a trip and I don't ever run the same route. 
I am curious as to how you removed the live well and replaced it with fuel tanks. Could you post some pictures of how you did this and how you routed the hose to the engine.


----------



## WatcherinLa

joebucko said:


> I don't keep track of the fuel consumption as I normally don't burn more than 2 gals on a trip and I don't ever run the same route.
> I am curious as to how you removed the live well and replaced it with fuel tanks. Could you post some pictures of how you did this and how you routed the hose to the engine.


I'll get some pics this evening and post them. I took a sharp hatchet and hammer and chiseled around the inside of the live well. It's not perfect, but you'd have to look hard to notice. And, it's covered most of the time.

I just routed 3/8 fuel line when I pulled the hoses to the live well. A 3 way valve from Sea Choice on ebay allows me select each tank. 
The original tank is strapped in where the well was. I bought a 5 gallon fuel tank and used a through hull connector on the cap. 2 hoses, one valve, runs back to the connector at the back.


----------



## yeocokent

WatcherinLa said:


> Have you noticed much of a change in fuel consumption with the 4 blade?
> 
> I removed my live well and moved 2 fuel tanks to that location. The boat just seems to ride better at higher speeds, and I have 11.6 gallons of fuel. With the occasional long runs I need to make across the big lakes, I can burn 6 gallons during the day. Peace of mind is good thing.
> 
> Plus, I now have all that space under the deck for tackle and gear. My battery is now in the center rear, too.


Good idea. Plus you eliminated the water overflowing all over the place from that livewell!


----------



## WatcherinLa

WatcherinLa said:


> I'll get some pics this evening and post them. I took a sharp hatchet and hammer and chiseled around the inside of the live well. It's not perfect, but you'd have to look hard to notice. And, it's covered most of the time.
> 
> I just routed 3/8 fuel line when I pulled the hoses to the live well. A 3 way valve from Sea Choice on ebay allows me select each tank.
> The original tank is strapped in where the well was. I bought a 5 gallon fuel tank and used a through hull connector on the cap. 2 hoses, one valve, runs back to the connector at the back.


I took these before I cleaned the boat, so ignore the dirty floor. 

The other tank is sitting underneath the console on the left, it's a little taller,but it fits nicely. I just slide it from under the console when I need to fill it.

You can see how clear it is under the rear deck. I have a couple of battery boxes that I put under there to carry accessories. My tackle boxes also fit well. I ran nylon strap across and looped it to the battery box in the center to keep everything from sliding forward. 
You can also see the PVC I used to elevate the seat/cooler. The height is just right, now.


----------



## yeocokent

Not sure if you guys are running fuel water separators. I just purchased this Yamaha mini 10 unit for my mako 17. Its for smaller engines (less than 115) and is a smaller filter.


----------



## njgradywhite

*So it happened...*

Welp. I have gone from having a great experience with this boat and loving it to having a terrible experience and wanting to get rid of it. All in a 2 week period.

First, the tachometer came from the factory incorrectly wire. Had to rewire this myself to get this to work. OK, no biggie. The dealer walked me through it over the phone.

Then I have had engine issues since day 1 that were "fixed" but came back a week later. Long story short the dealer had to do work on the engine through the warranty to stop an alarm from sounding because of the oil pressure. They had to replace the idle control valve as well as Oil pressure valve. Work was done at the house and then brought to the dealer for a week.

Next, over this past weekend the boat almost sank. had water up the console. Seal around the live well drain in the back of the boat was gone and water pouring in over night. I keep my boat in the water for the summer so if I wasn't around the boat would be gone. Luckily I installed a floatswitch. It was so bad the float switch kept the boat from sinking until the battery died.

I am so done with this boat. Total POS if you ask me. Nothing but issues from a brand new, 2015 Pro Skiff.

I think I have had the boat out of the water more than in the water. This is only month 2 of ownership and cant even imagine what else is going to happen to this thing.

Luckily the dealer I bought the boat from is a family owned company and really takes good care of the boat when its needed. Makes house calls so I don't have to drive the 45 mins to the dealership etc. I def. wouldn't be getting this attention from Bass Pro.

I am speaking with Mako/Tracker Marine now with a Warranty case worker to figure out what to do next. I have requested a replacement boat but no news on this yet.

Here is the video of the water coming out of the boat. Seawater came out for about 20-22 mins. I bet almost 40-50 gallons.


----------



## frankcr

That is a shame, but Mercury shipping an engine with problems and someone messing up the wiring on a tach could happen no matter the brand of a boat.

 Now the seal problem is a real QA problem, but overall your problems have nothing to do with the boat design or construction. 

Hang in there and enjoy the rig when they get it in shape. The majority of owners swear by these boats with good reason and you will probably feel the same way once these problems are addressed.

Met a guy at the ramp the other day who had a Pro Skiff and when told I also owned one it was high five and man hug time. He has a 28 footer which has only been used once this season as he does most of his fishing out of the skiff and loves it. None of the hassles associated with his large rig and extremely economical to run. I hope you feel the same way once the teething problems are solved.


----------



## Jonc

njgradywhite said:


> Welp. I have gone from having a great experience with this boat and loving it to having a terrible experience and wanting to get rid of it. All in a 2 week period.
> 
> First, the tachometer came from the factory incorrectly wire. Had to rewire this myself to get this to work. OK, no biggie. The dealer walked me through it over the phone.
> 
> Then I have had engine issues since day 1 that were "fixed" but came back a week later. Long story short the dealer had to do work on the engine through the warranty to stop an alarm from sounding because of the oil pressure. They had to replace the idle control valve as well as Oil pressure valve. Work was done at the house and then brought to the dealer for a week.
> 
> Next, over this past weekend the boat almost sank. had water up the console. Seal around the live well drain in the back of the boat was gone and water pouring in over night. I keep my boat in the water for the summer so if I wasn't around the boat would be gone. Luckily I installed a floatswitch. It was so bad the float switch kept the boat from sinking until the battery died.
> 
> I am so done with this boat. Total POS if you ask me. Nothing but issues from a brand new, 2015 Pro Skiff.
> 
> I think I have had the boat out of the water more than in the water. This is only month 2 of ownership and cant even imagine what else is going to happen to this thing.
> 
> Luckily the dealer I bought the boat from is a family owned company and really takes good care of the boat when its needed. Makes house calls so I don't have to drive the 45 mins to the dealership etc. I def. wouldn't be getting this attention from Bass Pro.
> 
> I am speaking with Mako/Tracker Marine now with a Warranty case worker to figure out what to do next. I have requested a replacement boat but no news on this yet.
> 
> Here is the video of the water coming out of the boat. Seawater came out for about 20-22 mins. I bet almost 40-50 gallons.


Wow... Too bad you're having all of these issues with a new boat, I'd be just as peaved if it were mine as well. I've had mine for 3 years now and it's been absolutely trouble free. I don't say this to rub it in at all but the skiff is an awesome boat as a general rule. Looks to me that you have a great dealer down there and he'll be key to fixing your problems. Hang in there man, get the girl fixed up and enjoy the summer on the water. Sometimes stuff just happens. Good luck!

Jonc


----------



## yeocokent

Jonc said:


> Wow... Too bad you're having all of these issues with a new boat, I'd be just as peaved if it were mine as well. I've had mine for 3 years now and it's been absolutely trouble free. I don't say this to rub it in at all but the skiff is an awesome boat as a general rule. Looks to me that you have a great dealer down there and he'll be key to fixing your problems. Hang in there man, get the girl fixed up and enjoy the summer on the water. Sometimes stuff just happens. Good luck!
> 
> Jonc


Same here. It kinds of peeves me that these things come up with the boat. We all know we aren't in top tier boats but through hull fittings should be sealed from the factory. I leave my boat in the water for a week or two at a time and that has never been an issue. The only time I have water in the hull it is from the absolute downpours we have been having lately. I always taste the water when it comes out of the hull and it is never salt.


----------



## njgradywhite

Well, boat is back in the water with no visible leaks. Spoke with Tracker again and they are sending me a $200 bass pro gift card for my troubles (rather have my boat without issues) but this will do in the interim.

The deal I bought the boat from has been nothing short of outstanding. They sent a tech to the house and worked on sealing everything up. So glad I went with a local dealer!


----------



## Winters97gt

njgradywhite said:


> Welp. I have gone from having a great experience with this boat and loving it to having a terrible experience and wanting to get rid of it. All in a 2 week period.
> 
> First, the tachometer came from the factory incorrectly wire. Had to rewire this myself to get this to work. OK, no biggie. The dealer walked me through it over the phone.
> 
> Then I have had engine issues since day 1 that were "fixed" but came back a week later. Long story short the dealer had to do work on the engine through the warranty to stop an alarm from sounding because of the oil pressure. They had to replace the idle control valve as well as Oil pressure valve. Work was done at the house and then brought to the dealer for a week.
> 
> Next, over this past weekend the boat almost sank. had water up the console. Seal around the live well drain in the back of the boat was gone and water pouring in over night. I keep my boat in the water for the summer so if I wasn't around the boat would be gone. Luckily I installed a floatswitch. It was so bad the float switch kept the boat from sinking until the battery died.
> 
> I am so done with this boat. Total POS if you ask me. Nothing but issues from a brand new, 2015 Pro Skiff.
> 
> I think I have had the boat out of the water more than in the water. This is only month 2 of ownership and cant even imagine what else is going to happen to this thing.
> 
> Luckily the dealer I bought the boat from is a family owned company and really takes good care of the boat when its needed. Makes house calls so I don't have to drive the 45 mins to the dealership etc. I def. wouldn't be getting this attention from Bass Pro.
> 
> I am speaking with Mako/Tracker Marine now with a Warranty case worker to figure out what to do next. I have requested a replacement boat but no news on this yet.
> 
> Here is the video of the water coming out of the boat. Seawater came out for about 20-22 mins. I bet almost 40-50 gallons.


Wished you would have learned from my videos. This boat sucks. It's extremly fuel efficient and runs decent in chop, but it's a Chinese pile of ****. I put 200+ hours on it, and had 5-6 water in the hull warranty claims, both front and rear decks started coming apart, cooler straps snapped a few times, fuel pump was wired incorrectly, etc. But these Mako Skiff owners can be like a cult, so I'm sure I'll get flamed. Just glad I don't have that POS boat anymore and now have a real boat. I should have known growing up on Shallow Sports and now owning a Dargel not to fall for this, but I learned a lesson.


----------



## frankcr

You may be swimming upstream, Winters. If we were not satisfied with our Mako, there is a strong possibility that we could afford to replace it with a more expensive rig, say as soon as this afternoon. In our case, we gave away a 21 ft cutty cabin to a friend completely equipped with trim tabs, outriggers, electric downrigger and quite a few other toys and bought the skiff we enjoy. We can drop it off a ramp and fish without all the fuss and maintenance needed for the larger boat and filling a 12 gallon tank beats the 65 gallon tank any day.

The difference is that I would not make it my vendetta to constantly voice my displeasure with a fairly common craft which others enjoy. You got burned, replaced the boat, now enjoy the replacement.

You do not understand the difference between a cult and people who are just satisfied with their purchase. If you feel this is flaming you, you may be right


----------



## Jonc

Well that was pretty straight forward, honest and accurate. I get he's sour to the Mako brand and in his case, rightfully so but its time to let it go on move on. I will add though that I'm convinced there is a quality control issue at Tracker Marine as how else can you explain some of the unexplainable issues a few guys on this thread have experienced? No seals, incorrect wiring, etc.

I find it amazing that 97:/: of us have great boats and a few guys just get burned. Hopefully Tracker reads threads like this and makes adjustments as in this day and age anything less than 100:/: is out there in an instant.



frankcr said:


> You may be swimming upstream, Winters. If we were not satisfied with our Mako, there is a strong possibility that we could afford to replace it with a more expensive rig, say as soon as this afternoon. In our case, we gave away a 21 ft cutty cabin to a friend completely equipped with trim tabs, outriggers, electric downrigger and quite a few other toys and bought the skiff we enjoy. We can drop it off a ramp and fish without all the fuss and maintenance needed for the larger boat and filling a 12 gallon tank beats the 65 gallon tank any day.
> 
> The difference is that I would not make it my vendetta to constantly voice my displeasure with a fairly common craft which others enjoy. You got burned, replaced the boat, now enjoy the replacement.
> 
> You do not understand the difference between a cult and people who are just satisfied with their purchase. If you feel this is flaming you, you may be right


----------



## joebucko

Jonc said:


> Well that was pretty straight forward, honest and accurate. I get he's sour to the Mako brand and in his case, rightfully so but its time to let it go on move on. I will add though that I'm convinced there is a quality control issue at Tracker Marine as how else can you explain some of the unexplainable issues a few guys on this thread have experienced? No seals, incorrect wiring, etc.
> 
> I find it amazing that 97:/: of us have great boats and a few guys just get burned. Hopefully Tracker reads threads like this and makes adjustments as in this day and age anything less than 100:/: is out there in an instant.


Well stated JONC. The majority of these boats are fine but the few that have had problems have been pretty severe. The apparent inability of Tracker/Mako to deal with the worst cases like Winters is just not acceptable. I don't blame him for moving on I'd have done the same thing.


----------



## frankcr

I do not mean to come down on anyone, but if you have a lemon, rectify the situation if possible or dump it. That lemon does not mean that the vast majority of the boats have any problems. If that skiff in our driveway starts being a problem, it is gone.

I spent years on the road and the model of Mercury automobile I had once had the worst seat you have ever sat in and was reworked many times before I dumped it. Stuff happens, and most of the owners seemed satisfied. Drove Fords for years and got exceptional service from them which were nearly identical to the Mercury.

It just takes one goldbrick in a manufacturing line to create a problem. We bought a boat once and when I complained to the dealer, he immediately replaced it. Seems the manufacturer hired a nut who could not mix resin properly which cost the manufacturer a lot of money. They told me "he gone". 

It is managements problem, however, if the problem child is not sent down the road. It is the QA people who should always keep their ears attuned to watch for problems, as that one lemon could cost the company a mint among the poor guys friends. 

Poor management is just asking for troubles.

I trained mechanics for years, and believe me, some of them should have never owned a set of tools.

Leaking thru hull fittings should be checked by the user and not just assumed to be properly fitted. Those suckers are bad news. One leaving the factory should result in a stiff reprimand to whoever was responsible.

My problem is listening to broken records who constantly harp on one experience and tries to sound like some kind of expert. Hey, an expert would have fixed the problem himself. Just move on and do not attempt to cause questions in happy owners minds. You are vastly outnumbered.


----------



## scrat

Any Mercury dealer can do that.


----------



## yeocokent

joebucko said:


> Well stated JONC. The majority of these boats are fine but the few that have had problems have been pretty severe. The apparent inability of Tracker/Mako to deal with the worst cases like Winters is just not acceptable. I don't blame him for moving on I'd have done the same thing.


Agreed. Not sure why Winters is now lashing out at those of us that have been happy with the boat. Kind of over the top if you ask me.


----------



## racingdc9

Any recommendations on a boat cover for the 17 Skiff? The storage place I use is not totally sealed so my boat gets pretty dirty when stored from all the dust coming in from under the doors.


----------



## joebucko

racingdc9 said:


> Any recommendations on a boat cover for the 17 Skiff? The storage place I use is not totally sealed so my boat gets pretty dirty when stored from all the dust coming in from under the doors.


My cover is an American made Carver. 71018NP. I got the NP=8 oz. Performance Poly-Guard. It is now three years old and going strong. Carver has a great website with lots of info on the various materials. I believe they offer at least 5 different materials. If you use their cover finder they show a cover made for the Mako Pro17 as 71017xx. I opted for the 18ft cover since my Minn Kota trolling motor sticks out over the bow a little. If you follow the 2coolfishing link below you can see my cover. It fits pretty loose and I expect the standard 71017 cover would be just fine even with my trolling motor.
I have trailered short distances with the cover on but I donâ€™t recommend it as the cover is really not designed for that. This cover does have a built in motor cover which fits nicely.

I bought mine off eBay from a vendor named ARTICALS but lots of people sell Carver Covers and you can buy directly from Carver if you wish. http://www.carvercovers.com/carver-boat-covers/


----------



## yeocokent

Finally got my fuel water separator installed. Its the Yamaha mini 10. Darn drill shifted on my when drilling one of the holes so it is a little crooked but still works. Debated on where to put it. Was going to put it on the transom but decided to put in on starboard side for easier removal and replacement.


----------



## racingdc9

joebucko said:


> My cover is an American made Carver. 71018NP. I got the NP=8 oz. Performance Poly-Guard. It is now three years old and going strong. Carver has a great website with lots of info on the various materials. I believe they offer at least 5 different materials. If you use their cover finder they show a cover made for the Mako Pro17 as 71017xx. I opted for the 18ft cover since my Minn Kota trolling motor sticks out over the bow a little. If you follow the 2coolfishing link below you can see my cover. It fits pretty loose and I expect the standard 71017 cover would be just fine even with my trolling motor.
> 
> I have trailered short distances with the cover on but I donâ€™t recommend it as the cover is really not designed for that. This cover does have a built in motor cover which fits nicely.
> 
> I bought mine off eBay from a vendor named ARTICALS but lots of people sell Carver Covers and you can buy directly from Carver if you wish. http://www.carvercovers.com/carver-boat-covers/


Thanks Joe


----------



## FlatsCatFL

racingdc9 said:


> Any recommendations on a boat cover for the 17 Skiff? The storage place I use is not totally sealed so my boat gets pretty dirty when stored from all the dust coming in from under the doors.


check out boatcoversdirect.com, they carry the carver line and provide excellent customer service. my first cover began to tear at the engine shroud and they redesigned a new one and shipped it to me free of charge..


----------



## Jonc

*Boat covers*

Hey flatscatfl... Do you leave your cover on outside year around? Just wondering how it stands up to the intense sun uv rays down there... I'm bringing my boat down to Stuart this fall and leaving it outside in the sun until spring.

JonC


----------



## raptorman700r

*new boat*

Bought a 2015 mako 17 with a 60hp about a month ago. I have been following this thread for a while deciding if this was the boat for me or not. Glad I bought it I am very happy with the purchase. So far I installed a minn kota pilot with quick disconnect, fire extinguisher, stingray fin and some rod holders. I have had the boat out 6 times now and have had no water in hull or problems with the livewell. Everything works great and wow this thing gets fantastic mileage. I boat at 4500 ft above sea level so I installed a 4 blade 12p and it works great trims out right at 6000 rpm. Here are some pics of my mods.


----------



## joebucko

Congratulations Raptorman,
Glad you are happy with your purchase. I am close to 3 years on my boat now and still love it. No issues so far and I don't expect any at this point.


----------



## njgradywhite

Congrats on the new ride! I have had some **** luck with mine but FINALLY got to enjoy it all weekend with no issues. What a great feeling. Handled 2 foot chop on the bay like a champ.

Tonight at the dock









Friday night taking it for a spin


----------



## njgradywhite




----------



## panhandlekelly

raptorman700r said:


> Bought a 2015 mako 17 with a 60hp about a month ago. I have been following this thread for a while deciding if this was the boat for me or not. Glad I bought it I am very happy with the purchase. So far I installed a minn kota pilot with quick disconnect, fire extinguisher, stingray fin and some rod holders. I have had the boat out 6 times now and have had no water in hull or problems with the livewell. Everything works great and wow this thing gets fantastic mileage. I boat at 4500 ft above sea level so I installed a 4 blade 12p and it works great trims out right at 6000 rpm. Here are some pics of my mods.


Glad you like your boat. I really like my 2013. How does the 12 pitch prop work out? Curious as to any gains with the Stingray.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*Boat cover*



Jonc said:


> Hey flatscatfl... Do you leave your cover on outside year around? Just wondering how it stands up to the intense sun uv rays down there... I'm bringing my boat down to Stuart this fall and leaving it outside in the sun until spring.
> 
> JonC


Yes, it's outside. The color (black) has faded a bit but the stitching and elastics are all still in good shape.


----------



## joebucko

*High Water keeping me off the lakes!*

Just needed to vent.
Its been 6 weeks since I had my Mako on a body of water and it will probably be another 4-6 weeks before I can launch on any of my three go to lakes here in North Texas.

Anticipating some of this I took the opportunity to take my boat into BassPro to have them change my plugs and impeller in the Mercury. It is going on three years old and I wanted it checked out thoroughly while still under warranty. It was there for a month due to the backlog BP is working through.

For you guys who don't know Texas was headed into our 5 year of drought. Most of our lakes were getting dangerously low and we have been implementing water restrictions. How do you cure an epic 5 year drought??? with a 100+year flood of course. 6 months ago my closest lake was 13ft low and they had closed all the ramps. It is now 26ft high and they have closed all the ramps. Got to fish it for one month in April as the water rose.

Staying busy catching up on all my honeydoos so when the lakes open back up I can spend all the time I want on the water.


----------



## KiteboarderDoug

So it sounds like the Solas Amita 4 blade 13P is the go to prop for a lot of you guys. Is there a good online source you guys recommend?


----------



## 2Beez

joebucko said:


> Just needed to vent.
> Its been 6 weeks since I had my Mako on a body of water and it will probably be another 4-6 weeks before I can launch on any of my three go to lakes here in North Texas.
> 
> Anticipating some of this I took the opportunity to take my boat into BassPro to have them change my plugs and impeller in the Mercury. It is going on three years old and I wanted it checked out thoroughly while still under warranty. It was there for a month due to the backlog BP is working through.
> 
> For you guys who don't know Texas was headed into our 5 year of drought. Most of our lakes were getting dangerously low and we have been implementing water restrictions. How do you cure an epic 5 year drought??? with a 100+year flood of course. 6 months ago my closest lake was 13ft low and they had closed all the ramps. It is now 26ft high and they have closed all the ramps. Got to fish it for one month in April as the water rose.
> 
> Staying busy catching up on all my honeydoos so when the lakes open back up I can spend all the time I want on the water.


 Being from Texoma I feel your pain. A good friend purchased a brand new mako 16 skiff a month before the monsoon so I have been working my way through this thread relaying all the info to him. There is some great information in this thread and I appreciate you taking the time to write it up :brew2:


----------



## joebucko

KiteboarderDoug said:


> So it sounds like the Solas Amita 4 blade 13P is the go to prop for a lot of you guys. Is there a good online source you guys recommend?


Kiteboarder
I'd just google it and see what comes up. It should be available for $95-$110. I have purchased several props from Dansdiscountprops.com


----------



## KiteboarderDoug

Thanks Joe, I knew I could count on you for a good answer.


----------



## Jonc

*Bad Rain..*

Yep, you poor folks down there have just been hammered this early summer. With the weather pattern flow, we've received most everything that blew thru Texas way up here in Indiana although not to the extent you guys have had.

June was the wettest month in history up here with a bit over 12" of rainfall. Much flooding and wind damage but hey, we can still fish! Fortunately we have hundreds of lakes here in a three county area. Hope you guys dry out soon JoeB.

Jonc

QUOTE=joebucko;14196946]Just needed to vent.
Its been 6 weeks since I had my Mako on a body of water and it will probably be another 4-6 weeks before I can launch on any of my three go to lakes here in North Texas.

Anticipating some of this I took the opportunity to take my boat into BassPro to have them change my plugs and impeller in the Mercury. It is going on three years old and I wanted it checked out thoroughly while still under warranty. It was there for a month due to the backlog BP is working through.

For you guys who don't know Texas was headed into our 5 year of drought. Most of our lakes were getting dangerously low and we have been implementing water restrictions. How do you cure an epic 5 year drought??? with a 100+year flood of course. 6 months ago my closest lake was 13ft low and they had closed all the ramps. It is now 26ft high and they have closed all the ramps. Got to fish it for one month in April as the water rose.

Staying busy catching up on all my honeydoos so when the lakes open back up I can spend all the time I want on the water.[/QUOTE]


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*trolling motor, backer plate needed?*

hello all,
very soon i'll be mounting my MK riptide TM. is it necessary to add a backer plate under the front deck for additional holding strength? thanks.


----------



## joebucko

FlatsCatFL said:


> hello all,
> very soon i'll be mounting my MK riptide TM. is it necessary to add a backer plate under the front deck for additional holding strength? thanks.


You will need some backing under the deck but it does not require a full plate. Large oversized washers will work.


----------



## racingdc9

joebucko said:


> Raising the engine will not make a lot of difference. With a load as you describe under ideal conditions my boat will do 35-36 at an air temperature about 60deg. As it gets warmer top end RPMs will drop. By myself last week I managed 37.8mph briefly.
> 
> My testing tells me that most Pro17s will benefit by raising the engine 1 or even 2 holes BUT raising the engine is a PITA since you must reseal the engine mount bolt holes each time to change the height. Raising it 2 holes can subject you to a little more prop blow out when trimming the engine up. I finally bit the bullet and added an Atlas Micro Jacker hydraulic jack plate. I can now fine tune the height tailored to the conditions and load. Even so the maximum gain is still only going to be a few MPHs.
> 
> The JP does give you much better control under all water conditions. Ideal conditions I can jack it all the way up and reach max speed, harsh conditions I can lower it all the way down and trim up the engine which raises the bow and still run decent speed. At very slow speed in shallow water, or stumps and weeds I can raise the engine 4 1/2" to clear lots of obstacles I couldn't clear at the original factory set height.


Joe, with the JP, how shallow do you think the skiff can run in? Been thinking about a JP for going back in the marshes where the fish go, but the water can get low back there.


----------



## joebucko

racingdc9 said:


> Joe, with the JP, how shallow do you think the skiff can run in? Been thinking about a JP for going back in the marshes where the fish go, but the water can get low back there.


Racingdc9,
I don't know exactly how shallow the boat will run when on plane. My educated guess would be about 12" of water since the cavitation plate is out of the water. Off plane at slow speeds I can raise the jp a total of 4.5" which would make it much more shallow than the factory position. Getting it on plane from very shallow water might be a challenge. 
Sorry I can't be more definitive I just don't have any way to determine the minimum running depth. It will not run nearly as shallow as a tunnel hull for obvious reasons.


----------



## flounder boy

*Jack Plate or Hydrofoil?*

For those of you that have added jack plates, has it really helped with the hole shot in skinny water? Seems the hull design would still allow the prop to washout. just looking for some feedback before spending the 700 - 1,000 dollars. I have also considered adding a poling platform but have no experience poling a cat like hull. Input from the MPS Skiff crowd would be appreciated.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

joebucko said:


> You will need some backing under the deck but it does not require a full plate. Large oversized washers will work.


thanks for the input JB.


----------



## Jonc

*Platform*



flounder boy said:


> For those of you that have added jack plates, has it really helped with the hole shot in skinny water? Seems the hull design would still allow the prop to washout. just looking for some feedback before spending the 700 - 1,000 dollars. I have also considered adding a poling platform but have no experience poling a cat like hull. Input from the MPS Skiff crowd would be appreciated.


I bought a platform a few years back flounderboy and rigged it up for use on both casting decks. With no prior poling experience I'm not sure I can give you much of a review however once I figured out the mechanics I was able to move the boat around pretty well.

I did find that the front deck mount puts you up in the air enough to cut the vision glare dramatically which works great sight fishing with a fly rod. My platform has a big loop grab rail on it and I attach my I pilot remote to the handle making it pretty easy to cruise around while still seeing below the water surface.

JonC


----------



## KiteboarderDoug

Any body have any issues getting their prop off? Or is it just me? Suggestion welcome.
Not thinking it should be this hard..


----------



## joebucko

KiteboarderDoug said:


> Any body have any issues getting their prop off? Or is it just me? Suggestion welcome.
> Not thinking it should be this hard..


I sent you an email Doug.


----------



## jpmizelle

*Prop slippage*

Loaded heavy with 6 on board I am experiencing significant slippage when trying to get up on plane with my 17 and Merc 60 with as 13 vengeance. Tons of pages on here and trying to cut to the chase. What have y'all found to run with heavier loads? Thanks.


----------



## Homestead Fl Man

If your having trouble getting to plane it might be due to where the people are sitting. Four people would be towards the front of the boat. Not a good idea in rough water lol. Sometimes it gets heavy towards the back of the boat with coolers fish and beer . I tell the heavy guy to sit in the front. 
This leads to my question , has anyone taken a few waves over the bow? I feel confident on the boat and have been using it often . But my recent concern is that it's not self bailing and I have to rely on the pump if I take water over the front. Is it possible to pull the top drain plug in emergency and drive forward. I would like to hear from anyone's experience . 
Would adding a second pump help , I added a second battery already with the battery box switch .


----------



## Jonc

*Drain Plug*

I've had a 12 ft. hard floor inflatable for the past ten years without a bilge pump or anything else for all that matters. It will hold a bunch of water under the floor and I routinely pull the plug while under way and the water drains out quickly. Works like a charm just watch your hands down there that close to the prop.

Jonc


----------



## frankcr

Talked to a gentleman recently who had one wave come over the bow and put 8 inches or so of water in the boat. These hulls are not meant for large waves.

Had a 20 foot self bailing hull with two 3/4 inch thru hulls in the stern and took on water in heavy seas, so I put an additional two thru hull drains in. Still took forever to drain after getting water aboard.

Stay out of big water with the skiff. It would take a very large pump to get rid of water in time to save your bacon and the 3/4 inch drain is of very little value. The bilge pumps are fine for rain water but completely useless in rough seas.

Skiffs are inshore boats, not offshore boats.


----------



## Homestead Fl Man

That's the plan , stay out of rough water but I like to prepare for the worse case. I haven't gone offshore on this boat, only once a few miles out to snorkel dry rocks reef by key largo. I've been around the water as a kid and had other small boats . This boat handles well in rough bay chop in Biscayne bay. And it handled well on some big rolling waves that day by the reef. I took a little water over the front but nothing of concern. But it got me thinking. I guess I'll have to keep to my bridge fishing more often then I thought . I will investigate a little more about the second stronger pump with its own drain line.


----------



## prod1944

*Big Water*

I'm dying to go dolphin fishing but just can't get a flat water day. I am in Homestead fl. too and fish Biscayne Bay often. Also fish bay side in Key Largo and one trip down to Long Key. I have 41 trips out since Oct. 5th 2014. I have went out in a light chop and had to make my way back in water that I shouldn't have been in. I know my limitations and have still got caught in rough water. I agree that this boat should not go in big water. That being said I have a hard head and the first day that looks flat I will bring home some dolphin. Going to install another bilge pump just for peace of mind. If the boat is foam filled as advertised will it sink? Which brings up another subject. What kind of vhf radios are you guys using. I have a hand held uniden with gps but can't get distance out of it and was wondering if anybody has added a telescopic antenna to a hand held


----------



## frankcr

People tend to look at a foam filled hull as unsinkable which is wrong plus an upside down hull is not safe which is step two when waves come in a boat. They also do not think you can drown while wearing a life jacket, also wrong. The design is great for river chop but not ocean wave action.

Bilge pumps are rated in gallons per hour which would take some time just to remove the water from one wave over the bow. Those little pumps with 3/4 inch discharges move very little water. If you want to play around in blue water, trade boats.


----------



## Homestead Fl Man

You should get a vhf radio on the boat with 8ft antenna I believe . That's what I'm looking at now , I believe you can get 20 miles range . Depending on conditions. I saw one setup with stainless steal bracket and ratchet attached to the bar by the center console. You'll have to put it up and down when not in use.


----------



## charliel2

I go out in the gulf fairly commonly. BUT, I pick my days very very wisely. Get out very early (0500-0600) when it's typically flat. Here in the panhandle I look for mornings that are absolutely dead calm. A lite breeze out of the north is even better because the north breeze tends to lay any waves down within 3 miles of shore. As soon as I feel that wind turn I pull lines and head in. By noon here the southerly sea breeze is at 10-15mph. On the days that I've gotten out I've always gotten my red snapper limit within 2 hours and within 4 miles of the pass. And that's on public numbers...the snapper are abundant though.

I always make sure my pumps are working before heading out. I carry a waterproof handheld VHF and a cell phone in a waterproof bag. 

My grandfather fished Tampa Bay his entire life in a 15' stick steer trihull bass boat and caught as much or more tarpon and cobia as anyone else. But, he knew the limits of himself and his equipment. He typically left before dawn and he didn't hesitate to cancel a trip or head in early. Know your limits.


----------



## prod1944

*limitations*

I agree Charlie12. I said it before and Ill say it again, know your limitations. I fish the same way you do. Early out an cleaning the boat by 12:30 / 1:00 unless it is a night trip. Going tomorrow and Sunday in biscayne bay. Winds out of the east at 5 to 10 knots, light chop. Sunday morning 5 knots out of the east and becoming 10/15 knots in the afternoon. Wont even take a look at the outside because I know what it will be like. When it is 15 knots steady or more I dont go at all. I wont even go in the back country because of the open bays that I cross. That being said going for snapper, grouper and permit tomorrow. Lord willing I might catch something. Fish On!!!


----------



## yeocokent

Went to launch yesterday and there was no pee stream. Just a friendly reminder to always check your pee holes guys. If I hadn't noticed could have blown the motor. Brought it back home and examined it a bit and stuck a wire into it and pulled out some mud. Put it on the muffs and it was back to normal. Mud dauber made a nest in there and you couldn't see it from the outside. Very simple problem could have blown the motor easily.


----------



## gdavis

Just picked up the first boat I've ever owned. Got a Mako 17 with a Sportsman Powerpole and Lowrance Elite 5 Chirp series. The guy at the store told me that if I want to use bait from a bait stand that I should put the livewell plug in and use my own bubbler to keep the bait fresh. Otherwise, when the boat takes water from the area that I will be fishing and cycles it with the water from the bait shop, they'll die. Is this true? Has anyone else had this experience? Should I be plugging the livewell each time I go out and fish live shrimp or croaker from a bait stand?


----------



## atexan

yeocokent said:


> Went to launch yesterday and there was no pee stream. Just a friendly reminder to always check your pee holes guys. If I hadn't noticed could have blown the motor. Brought it back home and examined it a bit and stuck a wire into it and pulled out some mud. Put it on the muffs and it was back to normal. Mud dauber made a nest in there and you couldn't see it from the outside. Very simple problem could have blown the motor easily.


Thanks for the reminder. I fight those daubers and yellow jackets every week. They seem to be attracted to boats.


----------



## prod1944

*live shrimp*

Gdavis, I'm not sure I understand what you were told about the live shrimp but I will tell you my experince. I use live shrimp a lot. I get as many as 15 dozen when I go skinny water or outside. I get my shrimp at the local tackle shop an put it in a 5 gallon bucket with an aerator. Before I launch I pour their water an shrimp in the live well and as soon as the boat is in the water I turn my livewell pump on. If the shrimp is healthy they will easily last 6 to 9 hours. The water at the tackle shops is usually dirty compared to what the livewell will bring in and send out unless they are located on the water and are continually bringing in fresh water like your pump will. You must make sure your livewell pumps when it is suppose to and if it doesnt look for the mod in this forum to fix it.


----------



## stang33331

When I flipped the power switch, the light on the power switch should be on and it did not. I flipped a few times and the power light switch finally turned on. However, I still do not have power on any of the accessories, such as the bilge pump, live well pump or horn. I thought it might be the fuse problem but I could find any fuse inside the center console. I still can start up the motor. Anybody had the same problem before.


----------



## prod1944

*power switch*

stang33331. I just replaced my power switch. It was still under warranty but not worth the hassle to tow to bass pro and wait for them to install a new switch, which by the way they didn't have anyways. Went to local marine store and found switch very similar. Easy replacement. If you know how to use a test light it is easy to check. Three wires on the back. One wire to ground, one wire is always hot when tested an the third wire feeds the rest of the switches when you turn the switch on it becomes hot. If the third wire is hot when the switch is flipped you need to trace that wire to where it connects. Hope this helps. By the way you can take that switch apart and clean the contact in it. I did that after I repalced it.


----------



## gdavis

prod1944 said:


> Gdavis, I'm not sure I understand what you were told about the live shrimp but I will tell you my experince. I use live shrimp a lot. I get as many as 15 dozen when I go skinny water or outside. I get my shrimp at the local tackle shop an put it in a 5 gallon bucket with an aerator. Before I launch I pour their water an shrimp in the live well and as soon as the boat is in the water I turn my livewell pump on. If the shrimp is healthy they will easily last 6 to 9 hours. The water at the tackle shops is usually dirty compared to what the livewell will bring in and send out unless they are located on the water and are continually bringing in fresh water like your pump will. You must make sure your livewell pumps when it is suppose to and if it doesnt look for the mod in this forum to fix it.


Thanks for the help. I'll try to use the aerator next trip. Took it out for its first trip yesterday and did ok. Kept the bait in a bucket on the boat.


----------



## stang33331

prod1944, thanks for your information. I will check that out.


----------



## gdavis

Steering question on my new Mako...

So I got a new Pro Skiff 17 last Sunday and have taken it out twice. The first time I took it out I wasn't sure of how it would handle, but it did fine. However, the steering was rougher than I thought it would be. Washed down the unit after the first run Monday and went out yesterday. I noticed that when I'm idling or barely moving, I can hardly turn my boat to the right. It's like turning a car without power steering fluid. Does anyone know the cause of this? 

I checked the steering cable and the lubricant that was on it seems to have disappeared. In the manual it says to use 2-4-C Marine Lubricant with Teflon. I'm going to lube that up before the next run. Also, the mechanic told me to put grease in the two pivot areas after each run. I bought a grease gun and used that on the trailer but am unsure which grease to put in these pivots. Does anyone know which grease to put on these pivots?


----------



## joebucko

gdavis said:


> Steering question on my new Mako...
> 
> So I got a new Pro Skiff 17 last Sunday and have taken it out twice. The first time I took it out I wasn't sure of how it would handle, but it did fine. However, the steering was rougher than I thought it would be. Washed down the unit after the first run Monday and went out yesterday. I noticed that when I'm idling or barely moving, I can hardly turn my boat to the right. It's like turning a car without power steering fluid. Does anyone know the cause of this?
> 
> I checked the steering cable and the lubricant that was on it seems to have disappeared. In the manual it says to use 2-4-C Marine Lubricant with Teflon. I'm going to lube that up before the next run. Also, the mechanic told me to put grease in the two pivot areas after each run. I bought a grease gun and used that on the trailer but am unsure which grease to put in these pivots. Does anyone know which grease to put on these pivots?


Congratulations on the new boat GDavis

There is not much to go wrong with the steering setup on the Pro17 and it should be easy to figure out where your problem lies. It is a manual system consisting of a cable in a tube. Turning the helm counterwise(left) retracts/pulls on the cable and turning it clockwise extends/pushes the cable out. Something as simple as lubrication can dramatically affect the steering especially when turning to the right. The good news is there is only one place that you can even lubricate on the steering system. I use 2-4-C but can't remember where I bought my tube.

Your boat should be easiest to steer at idle. Trying to turn right means you are pushing/extending the steering cable. At home lower the engine to the normal position and try turning the wheel lock to lock. It should take about the same effort in both directions. If it does not I'd lubricate the steering rod where it exits the tilt tube on the port side of the engine. If it gets easier to turn then that was your problem.

If lubing does not fix it I'd check if the motor itself is moving freely by disconnecting the steering arm from the actual steering cable. There is a single nut connecting this arm to the steering cable located in front of the engine on the port side. Remove the nut and lift the arm out of the hole in the steering cable(don't lose the two small stainless steel washers). The engine is now free and should turn easily in both directions. Pay attention to how far you are able to turn the engine especially to the left. Sometimes the control cable bundle slips down into the hole in the rear deck and does not allow it to move as far left as it does to the right. This can hamper steering a bit.

With the steering still disconnected get in the boat and turn the steering wheel from lock to lock and see if it moves easily. It should take the same amount of light force to turn in either direction.

These tests should tell you if your problem is in the steering mechanism or the actual motor. If it's the steering and lubricating it does not solve the problem I'd take it to the dealer.

Lubricating through the zerk fitting on the front of the motor after every trip is a little overkill. The only thing you are greasing through that fitting is the tilt tube that allows the engine to raise/lower. Pumping grease into this fitting DOES NOT LUBRICATE the actual steering mechanism. Any good grade Marine grease will do that. 
There are only three grease fitting on the motor. The one in front of the engine for the tilt tube, one on the engine shaft that lubes the bearings the engine swivels left and right on and one on a little locking mechanism on left side of the motor that can lock the engine in the full upright tilt position. I lube all three once or twice a year at the same time.


----------



## gdavis

So I couldnt find 2-4-C marine lubrication but I found 2-4-C Marine Grease with PTFE. I don't know if this is what I should be using or not...


----------



## joebucko

gdavis said:


> So I couldnt find 2-4-C marine lubrication but I found 2-4-C Marine Grease with PTFE. I don't know if this is what I should be using or not...


That is exactly what you need. I have an 8oz tube of it but mine says 2-4-C with Teflon. PTFE is Teflon so I guess the marketing gurus have been at work updating the look. Surprised it doesn't say NEW and IMPROVED. A little goes a long way. I have been using the same 8oz tube for three years and still have plenty left. It also comes in a 14oz tube for a grease gun if you want to use the same stuff to lube the engine zerks.


----------



## DO GOODER

Hey guys, great thread am considering getting the MPS 17. Am intrigued by all the mods. I am a bass guy and all of my boats have had hot foots. Am curious if any one has installed one. Also have not read about any one installing trim gauge. Any one care to chine in
Thanks


----------



## joebucko

DO GOODER said:


> Hey guys, great thread am considering getting the MPS 17. Am intrigued by all the mods. I am a bass guy and all of my boats have had hot foots. Am curious if any one has installed one. Also have not read about any one installing trim gauge. Any one care to chine in
> Thanks


Welcome DO GOODER
I fish for bass almost exclusively on North Texas lakes. My Pro17 is hands down a great overall fishing platform. Incredibly stable, easy to move around in and can float in very shallow water.

As to your questions No I have never heard of anyone installing a Hot Foot Throttle on this boat. Being a center console with a cooler for a seat I think it would just get in the way. This boat with the 60hp Mercury will only do a max of about 37mph and the existing throttle will hold you at whatever speed you desire. I have also not heard of anyone installing a trim gauge.

This boat is a very simple craft. I gauge (tachometer) and a throttle. It jumps on plane very quickly with little bow rise and for trim I just watch my rpms relative to my GPS speed. Pretty easy to dial in the most efficient combination for any given water condition.

The biggest negative for fisherman is the absence of a substantial live well. I do mostly catch and release so its not an issue for me but if you keep fish or get involved in a tournament you will have to come up with a way to keep them alive and healthy. I am sure other owners have already come up with a number of solutions for this issue.

Did I mention it sips gas!


----------



## Homestead Fl Man

I agree about the live shrimp, mine stay alive quite awhile, in fact if I left it on automatic I think they would stay alive forever. lol. I also use an aerator when transporting the shrimp and sometimes when the well is full of bait I use the aerator at the same time. It sits perfect on the side of the center console.
I always check the pee stream from the motor but I did forget to take off the bunny ears for flushing the engine. The boat ran fine, I finally noticed when my fishing line got tangled in it. :/


----------



## WatcherinLa

gdavis said:


> Steering question on my new Mako...
> 
> So I got a new Pro Skiff 17 last Sunday and have taken it out twice. The first time I took it out I wasn't sure of how it would handle, but it did fine. However, the steering was rougher than I thought it would be. Washed down the unit after the first run Monday and went out yesterday. I noticed that when I'm idling or barely moving, I can hardly turn my boat to the right. It's like turning a car without power steering fluid. Does anyone know the cause of this?
> 
> I checked the steering cable and the lubricant that was on it seems to have disappeared. In the manual it says to use 2-4-C Marine Lubricant with Teflon. I'm going to lube that up before the next run. Also, the mechanic told me to put grease in the two pivot areas after each run. I bought a grease gun and used that on the trailer but am unsure which grease to put in these pivots. Does anyone know which grease to put on these pivots?


I didn't like the slack in the steering of the original helm, so I replaced mine with a 4.2 NFB helm. Huge improvement.


----------



## WatcherinLa

DO GOODER said:


> Hey guys, great thread am considering getting the MPS 17. Am intrigued by all the mods. I am a bass guy and all of my boats have had hot foots. Am curious if any one has installed one. Also have not read about any one installing trim gauge. Any one care to chine in
> Thanks


I've decided to sell mine. If you're interested, PM me and I'll send you the details.


----------



## njgradywhite

Finally enjoying this boat after the **** I went through when I got it. It is such a beast. Was fishing 1.5-2ft skinny back bays yesterday and it was perfect.

This morning top water fishing.. Brother casting on the deck...









In water shot









Beast from last week on the skiff


----------



## frankcr

Good to see you getting use out of the skiff. Sorry you got snake bit at first, but you should become a fan now that it is fit for service.


----------



## prod1944

*boat power*

Hey guys. Went to Bass Pro today. Shoppiing for new reel for one of my sons birthday. Ran in to my salesman and had a very interesting conversation about one of his customers that has the pro 17. Customer is out of Key West and Salesman says that he has put a 115 merc on the boat. A second customer of his that bought a boat from him told him the same story and about the first customer. I am going to see if he will contact the customer and find out if he will talk to anybody about it. I just cant see the extra weight hanging back there. Sure would like to increase the hp though. Raining every day now. Lobster mini season opens Wednesday. The Keys are loaded with boaters. Im going to try my hand bully netting. Rigged a great set of underwater lights. Ill try to post the pictures.


----------



## joebucko

prod1944 said:


> Hey guys. Went to Bass Pro today. Shoppiing for new reel for one of my sons birthday. Ran in to my salesman and had a very interesting conversation about one of his customers that has the pro 17. Customer is out of Key West and Salesman says that he has put a 115 merc on the boat. A second customer of his that bought a boat from him told him the same story and about the first customer. I am going to see if he will contact the customer and find out if he will talk to anybody about it. I just cant see the extra weight hanging back there. Sure would like to increase the hp though. Raining every day now. Lobster mini season opens Wednesday. The Keys are loaded with boaters. Im going to try my hand bully netting. Rigged a great set of underwater lights. Ill try to post the pictures.


The 115 sounds pretty wild. The Merc 75/90/115 all weight the same so you might as well go for the gusto. Putting that motor on the boat would add 112lbs to the stern but you could probably offset a lot of that weight by moving weight to the bow keeping the boat pretty flat on the water. I am not sure how you handle the issue of the boat only being rated for 60hp max.
Keep us posted on what you find out.


----------



## prod1944

*merc 115*

Joebucko, I thought it was more weight then that. I didnt ck. However remember that is weight on the back of the transom. The only weight I would wont to move would be the battery and that is probably around 45 lbs. I have two fuel tanks but I wouldnt want them taking space on another part of the boat. The transoms are always built to hold more then they are rated for but I bet that could be an insurance issue. Just dreaming of what could be. If I get any real info I will post it.


----------



## frankcr

Insurance will be the largest hiccup. If I remember correctly, they wanted to know what the hull was rated for when we applied for the coverage. Ask your carrier what their rule is.

Unless you are a naval architect, you are playing with fire. Trade boats if you want a faster hull.


----------



## prod1944

*merc 115*

Frankcr, Your right on about the carrier asking what the hull was rated for. A man can dream cant he??. LOL!! I like this boat, just wish it was a little faster on the top. I average five trips a month between Biscayne Bay, Key largo and the area of Long Key in the fl keys. (Gulf side and Alantic side) Looking to start fishing the Flamingo area of Florida Bay. I have no water in the hull issue, livewell has the mod per this forum and works perfect. I did my own mod to the top of the livewell and water does not splash out. I have hit 38 mph in 68 degree weather with a slight chop on the water and breeze at my back, before I put the weight of the trolling motor on the front with the battery. I always have the weight of my two tanks, fish cooler and my two sons are always with me. I havent used an anchor since I installed the trolling motor which has held me in some very strong currents. I would like to run 40 mph at any time but I would not give up anything this boat does for me to accomplish that. Sorry to ramble on guys. I just love being on the water and fishing.


----------



## WatcherinLa

joebucko said:


> The 115 sounds pretty wild. The Merc 75/90/115 all weight the same so you might as well go for the gusto. Putting that motor on the boat would add 112lbs to the stern but you could probably offset a lot of that weight by moving weight to the bow keeping the boat pretty flat on the water. I am not sure how you handle the issue of the boat only being rated for 60hp max.
> Keep us posted on what you find out.


Curiosity got the better of me, so I looked up the USCG rating formulas.
For a tiller with at least 20" transom:
Length x Max transom width x .5

Remote steering (CC) 
Length x Max Transom width x 2 -90

Basically, the transom width is the beam width on the PS 17.
17.3 x 6.75 x .5 = 58.34 hp

17.3 x 6.75 x 2 - 90 =143.5 hp

Looks like the 60 HP rating is for the Tiller version.


----------



## frankcr

Hull design makes a tremendous difference in how a boat handles horsepower. Using a raw equation without accounting for that will mislead you.

Consider the difference between a pad boat, deep vee and a jon boat, you can see immediately that hull design is very influential. The skiff hull is fine tuned for low speed and chop, in other words fishing.

The only complaint I have is that the inner liner could use additional layers of fiberglass in the Skiff.


----------



## WatcherinLa

Yes, hull design has a significant impact on handling, but the 17 should be able to run in the 40's with little chop, don't you think? I was just pointing out that the HP rating is for the Tiller version, and how much difference there is in the ratings between tiller and CC.


----------



## frankcr

Not meaning to be disrespectful at all, but we do not have enough information to second guess the manufacturer. I have no problem with your calculations, but other factors come into play which must be addressed. 

Before we bought our rig, my salesman was in touch with the Mako test driver to answer some questions for me. He did water tests plus the work done by the design team, so they probably have a world of data which led them to their recommendations.

We had a 17 foot deep vee once which topped out at about 42. Constant care was required to keep that rig under control, but it was a dream at 30 to 35 MPH. Pushing a hull faster than what it was designed for can bring on problems quickly.

We have a 30 HP on our boat which would probably not even plane that 17 ft deep vee, but the performance with the small motor is very satisfying on the Mako. They do not require high horsepower to provide good service, so it would be my guess that pushing one too much would bring on handling problems.

I would hate to read where one of the fellows spent good money only to end up with a dangerous rig.

The rigs as fitted out by the manufacturer are well balanced and do a great job as fishing craft.


----------



## joebucko

WatcherinLa said:


> Yes, hull design has a significant impact on handling, but the 17 should be able to run in the 40's with little chop, don't you think? I was just pointing out that the HP rating is for the Tiller version, and how much difference there is in the ratings between tiller and CC.


I agree with you that this boat should be able to hit 40mph. With the 60HP Merc the only way this is going to happen is in an air temperature below 65deg, limited weight in the boat and 14"pitch stainless steel prop(13"P if the tail wind is strong enough)nice wind to your back, mild chop. For practical purposes it is just an academic exercise as normal WOT is going to be 34-37mph with a 5000rpm cruise around 30mph. If you want something different from that you need to look for a different boat.

I don't know anything about calculating how much weight/hp a given boat is capable of I just know I have the Pro17 CC and the sticker on my boat is crystal clear relative to:
max weight 1400 lbs (Persons, motor, gear)
max hp=60
max weight of the engine @ 220lbs.
There is only 1 Pro17 hull regardless of whether it is a tiller or CC.

I did a pretty good internet search and couldn't find any USCG or state specific regulations regarding matching the actual engine to the 'Recommended HP sticker". I did find several Insurance company references stating that if you exceeded the MAX HP rating your claims could/would be voided. 
So if you wanted to put a larger engine on it I suppose you could do that as long as you did not want it insured.


----------



## WatcherinLa

Tiller and remote steering always have different power ratings.

This is the first thing that came up in a search.

http://www.boats.com/boat-content/outboard-horsepower-ratings-for-tiller-steer-boats

http://newboatbuilders.com/pages/33CFR_HP.html


----------



## joebucko

WatcherinLa said:


> Tiller and remote steering always have different power ratings.
> 
> This is the first thing that came up in a search.
> 
> http://www.boats.com/boat-content/outboard-horsepower-ratings-for-tiller-steer-boats
> 
> http://newboatbuilders.com/pages/33CFR_HP.html


The calculations are very straight forward in both of these documents. Now we just need someone bold enough to strap on a 75-115hp and let us all know how it goes.


----------



## frankcr

Hey, I planed a 16 foot canoe a couple of times with a 4 HP motor when I was younger and dumber, but it was a stupid maneuver on my part. It was fast running straight ahead but a real squirrel in turns. So someone might think rating those boats for higher HP is reasonable, but I would not agree with them. A canoe is not designed for planeing.

If someone wants to fit a skiff with a larger motor, go for it. We had a dude around here who put a 115 HP Merc on a 16 ft narrow beam open boat for a time which was very fast but as dangerous as they come. One slip and he was shark bait.

There was another dude who put sponsons on a 12 or 13 foot aluminum utility boat and fitted it with a 30 or 35 HP motor, but would the average joe want to run such a rig? It would pitch end over end if it hit a decent wave.

I don't understand why an argument for a larger motor on the skiff is being made. There are many other designs out there if you want speed.

The Mako skiff is unique in that it performs well with motors from about 25 to 60 HP which makes it a desirable fishing craft. We cruise at 20 to 22 MPH and can run forever with a 6 gallon tank. It tops out at about 26 or 27 MPH with half the rated horsepower and two aboard with all fishing gear. It is a dream ride in river chop. As Joe said, the hull on both versions are identical. 

If double the horsepower only provides about 10 MPH, what would be the gain with more horsepower? Would anyone want to run a rig which the insurance company could walk away and leave the financial problems in your lap if you were involved in an accident?


----------



## WatcherinLa

I'm hoping we hear back from the guy who said he was going to contact the owner that had a 115 on his PS 17. 
The Mako 18 runs mid 40's with a 115, so a 90 on the 17 should get close to that. 
As for insurance, there are a few companies that will rate your premium based on the USCG formula. It's higher when you exceed the manufacturers plate, but they will insure it.


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## WatcherinLa

joebucko said:


> The calculations are very straight forward in both of these documents. Now we just need someone bold enough to strap on a 75-115hp and let us all know how it goes.


Joe is a bold guy, isn't he? LOL


----------



## joebucko

WatcherinLa said:


> Joe is a bold guy, isn't he? LOL


Joe is not quite bold enough to shell out the kind of coin it would take to test this setup. I am quite happy with my gas sipping almost 40mph incredibly stable and dry Pro17. 
There are still two or three props I'd like to try on this boat but that's about it for me.


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## frankcr

The 17 and 18 have two completely different bottom profiles, so that is not a good comparison. When you get your new motor, let us know just what it does. The cost of the replacement would be interesting as well as the speed potential.


----------



## Homestead Fl Man

Frank, how did your mini season go? I went bully netting for the first time and struck out twice. I was around the key biscayne area (outside the lobster sanctuary) and only found some short ones. Back at the marina FWC said people weren't coming back with much the second night. Most the pictures for bullynetting im seeing are coming from the keys. They say it's plentiful down there. I used some under water LEDs works pretty good. It was nice rasing the enginge and skimming over a foot water.


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## frankcr

I am in Georgia but would love to be in the Keys right now. Hope to bring the Mako down there in the future and hit the patch reefs, as some grunts and grits would make me very happy.


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## DO GOODER

? for you guys, does the access port for all the rigging cables that runs from the stern to the helm drain into the hull ? I notice this appears to be below the bilge. Why is there two drain plugs ? Is the Pro Skiff 17 a self bailing deck? And last but not least, is there a bilge pump in the hull? Just wondering how do you get water out off the hull without pulling plug?


----------



## joebucko

DO GOODER said:


> ? for you guys, does the access port for all the rigging cables that runs from the stern to the helm drain into the hull ? I notice this appears to be below the bilge. Why is there two drain plugs ? Is the Pro Skiff 17 a self bailing deck? And last but not least, is there a bilge pump in the hull? Just wondering how do you get water out off the hull without pulling plug?


Hey DO GOODER,
I'll try and answer your questions.
1. The Proskiff is not self bailing. Mine has a 1000 gal/hr bilge pump.

2. The rigging tube is not supposed to drain into the hull. It should not get much/any water in it because the only openings are under the console which is pretty dry and at the bilge where your cables exit and it is protected somewhat with a rubber seal. Now if your bilge filled up I expect some water could enter the tube and probably some would enter the hull around that seal. There should not be a lot of room for water in the hull since the liner fits pretty close to the hull and there is supposed to be flotation foam between the liner and the hull.

3. One drain plug is for the liner above the hull and the other is to drain the hull. It would be very difficult to drain either while on the water.

4. No bilge pump in the hull. You have to pull the plug to drain it.

I am on my 3rd year with my boat. I use it frequently and I have only used my bilge pump twice both times do to significant rain storms.


----------



## njgradywhite

The bilge pump works great. I use it daily. Boat stays docked in the water for 6-7 months and when it rains it fills the bilge. When we take a little water from some nasty wakes or chop the bilge pump dries us out. I reallllyyyyy depend on that pump. I already have a second waiting if I need to replace it. I also installed a float switch. Huge help.

I did have a big issue with my boat see a couple pages ago. You will see just how much water can fit into he Hull. I'm talking 30-40 gallons or more I'd guess.

All is good now but the only way to drain the Hull is through the drain plug.


----------



## DO GOODER

You guys are awesome, thanks for the response just trying to do my home work before pulling the trigger. The staff at bass pro does not seam to be able to answer any of my ?


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## njgradywhite

Great lines when in the water!


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## Jonc

*Small mouth trip to Canada*

Non Mako post but thought I'd jump start this thread again as most of us check this site out regularly if not daily... Heading up to Ontario in a couple weeks to a buddies place to fish for small mouth bass. A few weeks back they caught over 25 that were 20" or longer with one going 7.6 lbs. that's one big small mouth!

Taking along an 8 weight fly rod as that would be a heck of a ride.... If we get into the big ones, I'll post a few pics later.

JonC


----------



## joebucko

Jonc said:


> Non Mako post but thought I'd jump start this thread again as most of us check this site out regularly if not daily... Heading up to Ontario in a couple weeks to a buddies place to fish for small mouth bass. A few weeks back they caught over 25 that were 20" or longer with one going 7.6 lbs. that's one big small mouth!
> 
> Taking along an 8 weight fly rod as that would be a heck of a ride.... If we get into the big ones, I'll post a few pics later.
> 
> JonC


Sounds like a GREAT trip Jonc. Have fun/ post pics.

I still can't launch my boat on the local lakes here in North Texas because they are still above flood stage from our torrential Spring rains. Couple that with 106deg afternoon temps and you can image the mood I am in.


----------



## njgradywhite

Well I made the decision to at least try to duck hunt out of the Mako this season. My other small boat isn't as comfortable as the pro Skiff but in the other hand it will be hard to hide a big white boat.

Anyway, I ordered a boat blind for the boat from Beavertail which is no drill system. Looks like it will work great. Should hide almost all the white and what it doesn't cover i will attach additional camo.

I'll keep everyone posted on how this goes. What the heck, its only $1000 for the blind, its only money...


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## njgradywhite

Picked up some nice Taylor made tuff end orange buoys for the dock since the boat is in the water full time. Expensive but work great in protecting the boat! Recommend them for anyone on the bay with this boat.


----------



## joebucko

njgradywhite said:


> Well I made the decision to at least try to duck hunt out of the Mako this season. My other small boat isn't as comfortable as the pro Skiff but in the other hand it will be hard to hide a big white boat.
> 
> Anyway, I ordered a boat blind for the boat from Beavertail which is no drill system. Looks like it will work great. Should hide almost all the white and what it doesn't cover i will attach additional camo.
> 
> I'll keep everyone posted on how this goes. What the heck, its only $1000 for the blind, its only money...


Looking forward to pictures of your boat all ducked out with camo this fall.


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## Sanren

i got my mako PS 17 2 months ago, love the thing. It handles Tampa Bay perfectly. I did the bait well mod and that works about 97% of the time, every now and then i have to pull the vent tube out and blow into it as the water that gets caught in there tends to keep it vapor locked. One issue i have, and not sure if others have got this solved well, while using the bait well and then going from one location to another, that thing spills all over the deck, even with a buddy of mine sitting on the lid it was still soaking the back of his legs. I know i saw a post somewhere back around page maybe 140 where somebody put a different gasket on. Is that the only fix? to replace the gasket?

On a different note, I just looked at the Mako site at the 2016 models, on the Features/Options page it lists a "10-gal. (38 L) aft baitwell w/adjustable aerator & overflow". The pictures they have don't show any of this. I did see in the pictures that they moved the socket for the aft light off to the side rather than in the center. Anybody seen one of the new models with an extra bait well in it?


----------



## Jonc

joebucko said:


> Sounds like a GREAT trip Jonc. Have fun/ post pics.
> 
> I still can't launch my boat on the local lakes here in North Texas because they are still above flood stage from our torrential Spring rains. Couple that with 106deg afternoon temps and you can image the mood I am in.


And I thought we had it bad up here with all the rain we had. No wake on most of the lakes for a few weeks but you guys got hammered. Hang in there JoebB!


----------



## txteltech

Here's a picture of the original pro skiff built by Kenner before it became Mako from BPS

These boats have been around a while and come along way!










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## frankcr

Interesting. Did it have the same bottom profile?


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## njgradywhite

frankcr said:


> Interesting. Did it have the same bottom profile?


The ones that I have seen in NJ have a pretty flat smooth bottom.


----------



## prod1944

*live well seal*

Sanren look at page was 196 for live well seal.


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## Carolinaguy

Hey there. I have been reading this page for a few weeks now, and I want to thank everyone for all of the useful information. Thanks to all of your dedication, I have decided the 17 skiff is the perfect boat for my family. I have always had bass boats, so this will be my first skiff/CC boat. I have never really looked at them much until moving here to SC from Ohio. You don't see too many skiffs on the lakes in Ohio, but here in Myrtle Beach you see a ton of them. I believe this will be a much more versatile boat for what I would like to do. I will spend a lot of time in the inlets/marsh, jetties, and a lot of time searching for the rare bass here in the fresh waterways lol.

I hope to be picking my new boat up from BPS here is MB this week. I have opted to just get the boat with no accessories because after reading this post, I feel I can perform the add-ons myself. I will only be adding a trolling motor and bimini top for now. I Like the plainness of this boat a lot, unlike a bass boat with a lot of shiny stuff to break over time lol.

I'm not sure on which trolling motor I will get, so any recommendations are appreciated. I am looking to go with a 12 volt motor.

Well I just wanted to introduce myself and I look forward to getting the boat and getting back on the water. Once again, thanks to all of you for the great info.


----------



## Jonc

Welcome to the thread! Great guys and you'll get all the advice and opinions you'll need to assist in setting up your new boat. Due to no raceway from helm to bow, I elected to buy a 24v min Kota me I've never once came even close to running out of power al an all day fish. Good luck and enjoy!

JonC



Carolinaguy said:


> Hey there. I have been reading this page for a few weeks now, and I want to thank everyone for all of the useful information. Thanks to all of your dedication, I have decided the 17 skiff is the perfect boat for my family. I have always had bass boats, so this will be my first skiff/CC boat. I have never really looked at them much until moving here to SC from Ohio. You don't see too many skiffs on the lakes in Ohio, but here in Myrtle Beach you see a ton of them. I believe this will be a much more versatile boat for what I would like to do. I will spend a lot of time in the inlets/marsh, jetties, and a lot of time searching for the rare bass here in the fresh waterways lol.
> 
> I hope to be picking my new boat up from BPS here is MB this week. I have opted to just get the boat with no accessories because after reading this post, I feel I can perform the add-ons myself. I will only be adding a trolling motor and bimini top for now. I Like the plainness of this boat a lot, unlike a bass boat with a lot of shiny stuff to break over time lol.
> 
> I'm not sure on which trolling motor I will get, so any recommendations are appreciated. I am looking to go with a 12 volt motor.
> 
> Well I just wanted to introduce myself and I look forward to getting the boat and getting back on the water. Once again, thanks to all of you for the great info.


----------



## Carolinaguy

Yeah I looked at the 24volt ones but I think I'll stick with a 12 for now. Im having troubles though. I want a hand controlled bow mount trolling motor but im confused on what shaft size to get. I am 5'11 and i would like it to be tall enough to be comfy to use while standing on bow.


----------



## Sanren

Thanks Prod. I've gone through this entire thread, but with 235 pages things can get lost. I went back and looked through 125 through 165 and didn't see it. 

Carolinaguy. I can't rant enough about the iPilot. I was skeptical with the cost, but it has become the best by far feature on my boat. I have the 55# thrust 12v model and it works great in the currents in the Tampa Bay. I still carry an anchor (old habits die hard) but the only time i've ever used the anchor was when we beached for a cookout and i knew i would be there for hours, threw the anchor on the beach so i didn't have to worry about the tide. If i were to buy this boat again, i wouldn't even consider it without the iPilot on there.


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## Carolinaguy

Sanren said:


> Thanks Prod. I've gone through this entire thread, but with 235 pages things can get lost. I went back and looked through 125 through 165 and didn't see it.
> 
> Carolinaguy. I can't rant enough about the iPilot. I was skeptical with the cost, but it has become the best by far feature on my boat. I have the 55# thrust 12v model and it works great in the currents in the Tampa Bay. I still carry an anchor (old habits die hard) but the only time i've ever used the anchor was when we beached for a cookout and i knew i would be there for hours, threw the anchor on the beach so i didn't have to worry about the tide. If i were to buy this boat again, i wouldn't even consider it without the iPilot on there.


Thanks for the info The i-pilot confuses me. The anchor hold looks amazing but what all do you need to make the ipilot work? just the trolling motor?


----------



## joebucko

Carolinaguy said:


> Thanks for the info The i-pilot confuses me. The anchor hold looks amazing but what all do you need to make the ipilot work? just the trolling motor?


All you need is the iPilot. It comes in two flavors, standard iPilot and iPilot with Link that will interface to certain gps equipted Humminbird units. The link is supposed to actually follow map contours if linked properly.

I am on my third year with the standard iPilot and as Sanren stated it is the best piece of equipment I have added to my boat. It comes with a footpedal but I have NEVER even hooked mine up because the remote is so convenient. In addition to the Anchor feature which is great I use the AutoPilot every time I use the motor. iPilot has a built in GPS in the head unit and Autopilot uses that gps to steer the boat regardless of wind or tide. Just aim it in the direction you want to go and Autopilot will take you there. I has other features as well but too many to list here.


----------



## mccooj

Hello All,

The Pro 17 Skiff is on my short list and I must say this thread is a large part of the reason why. Some great information here and I really appreciate everyone's time and all of the great insight.

The only real concern I have about the pro skiff is the center console material. My son and I were all over the skiff at BPS (probably annoyed the sales person we spent so much time there). I noticed that when applying pressure to the grab rail the center console would warp and allow the grab rail to move. It would return to it's original shape when I stopped applying pressure however I'm concerned this will weaken over time.

Is anyone having problems with their center console? 

Will the 2016 have the same material or will they start using fiberglass going forward? 

Thanks again for all the great info.


----------



## Carolinaguy

joebucko said:


> All you need is the iPilot. It comes in two flavors, standard iPilot and iPilot with Link that will interface to certain gps equipted Humminbird units. The link is supposed to actually follow map contours if linked properly.
> 
> I am on my third year with the standard iPilot and as Sanren stated it is the best piece of equipment I have added to my boat. It comes with a footpedal but I have NEVER even hooked mine up because the remote is so convenient. In addition to the Anchor feature which is great I use the AutoPilot every time I use the motor. iPilot has a built in GPS in the head unit and Autopilot uses that gps to steer the boat regardless of wind or tide. Just aim it in the direction you want to go and Autopilot will take you there. I has other features as well but too many to list here.


Thank you Joe and Sanren for the info on the ipilot I will now have to go look at it as it sounds great lol. But just in case i decide on a hand controlled bow mounted trolling motor any info on a good shaft length? I am 5'11 and would like something that is a little under waste line when in use.. Thanks again =)


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## joebucko

Carolinaguy said:


> Thank you Joe and Sanren for the info on the ipilot I will now have to go look at it as it sounds great lol. But just in case i decide on a hand controlled bow mounted trolling motor any info on a good shaft length? I am 5'11 and would like something that is a little under waste line when in use.. Thanks again =)


I don't know how tall they go but I have the 45" shaft on my iPilot and it is very low to the front deck. If it were a hand operated motor I'd want at least another 12" and probably more.


----------



## Carolinaguy

Thanks Joe for the info.


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## Jonc

I've read in other threads about numerous guys echoing the same concern with the helm construction and materials but can't recall one instance where the concern became reality. I'm in my third summer however my boat sits on a covered lift and is only exposed to the sun when I'm out fishing.

No problems to date but perhaps a few of our southern coastal friends can chime in on extended sun/ heat exposure.

JonC



mccooj said:


> Hello All,
> 
> The Pro 17 Skiff is on my short list and I must say this thread is a large part of the reason why. Some great information here and I really appreciate everyone's time and all of the great insight.
> 
> The only real concern I have about the pro skiff is the center console material. My son and I were all over the skiff at BPS (probably annoyed the sales person we spent so much time there). I noticed that when applying pressure to the grab rail the center console would warp and allow the grab rail to move. It would return to it's original shape when I stopped applying pressure however I'm concerned this will weaken over time.
> 
> Is anyone having problems with their center console?
> 
> Will the 2016 have the same material or will they start using fiberglass going forward?
> 
> Thanks again for all the great info.


----------



## Jonc

*Helm Delamination*

I should have added one more note regarding the helm. I thermal form plastics and PVC out of flat sheet stock daily at my company and the finished products are exposed to excessive heat for long periods of time. We crate up our products and ship many in shipping containers often times for weeks on the water, never one issue with delamination.

Once the substrate is formed the memory retention is amazing. We've even clamped these products for weeks on end during testing just to see if they would retain the new shape and they always spring back to the molded form. Mako isn't the only company using plastics in boat manufacturing and actually you'd be hard pressed to find a manufacturer who does not.

Think about how much Starboard is fabricated and thermal formed for boat deck interiors these days. Same exact concept and much lighter in weight than fiberglass. Simply put, I tried and true common process.

Jonc


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## mccooj

Thanks for the response Jonc. I feel fairly confident the material won't be any real issue other than just bothering me with the flex when leaning on the grab rail. I thought if anyone were to know of issues with the consoles it would be someone from this thread. Seems to be the go-to forum for this little skiff.


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## Carolinaguy

Well its official I pick my new 17 up tomorrow morning at 11am =))


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## joebucko

Carolinaguy said:


> Well its official I pick my new 17 up tomorrow morning at 11am =))


Congratulations and good for you. 
Let the MODS begin.


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## Carolinaguy

joebucko said:


> Congratulations and good for you.
> Let the MODS begin.


Thanks Joe.. I am looking forward to adding stuff to it. I will use allot of info and mods off here. As there are a tone of great ones =) Ill post pictures of her tomorrow =)


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## njgradywhite

Carolinaguy said:


> Well its official I pick my new 17 up tomorrow morning at 11am =))


Always a great feeling! Enjoy the boat!


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## Carolinaguy

Ok, so I picked the boat up this past Saturday. I already have around 5 hours on her. Let me start by saying how much I'm glad I chose this boat. It is an amazing boat. It is very stable and sips the gas.

So here goes my 5 hour first thoughts =)

I love the 60hp four stroke motor. I have never had a four stroke so I was amazed at how quiet it is, as well as the fuel economy. I did the break in on the motor just as it says to in the manual. I'm on hour number 6 now and its is purring like a kitten. The trim is a little more tricky then my other boat. It takes a little more playing with it to find the sweet spot. The boat plains out nice and quick. I have already encountered light chop to massive wake and this boat seems to do great against both.

I love the layout of the boat, as it's perfect for my family. Coming from bass boats to this is a big change. There is plenty of room to move around and, like I stated it is very stable. I haven't had a chance to cast any lines from it yet, but I'm sure standing on the deck is very stable as well.

Now for the few issues I've ran into.

I am aware of the live well issue, but I encountered a different issue. I didn't want to put any water in it at all since i wasn't going to use it, so I had the live well plug in. About an hour into the maiden voyage I saw some water seeping out from under the seat so we stopped to have a look. It was full of water. So after thinking for a min of how that happened, I realized that with the nozzle open in the live well at high speeds the EZ pickup pushes the water into the well even if the pump is never engaged. So once I shut the nozzle off and pulled the plug it drained and never filled again. So to sum it up, it's only a minor issue to me and I will just keep the nozzle closed unless I wish to use the livewell.

My only other issue is the steering is funky to me. It is not very smooth, and at high speeds it's is very tight to move it to the right at all while seeming easy to turn it left. The tech at BPS told me at pickup that these boats have bad torque steer and I could adjust a little flap thing right above the prop to make it better. I'm not really sure what that means lol But I will let them have a look at the 20 hour service in a couple weeks.

And that is it. I feel these problems are very minor at best and I have read through this forum and seen that others have had the same issues, so I was expecting the livewell thing and the steering I will figure out.

All in all my opinion is that this a great boat for a great price. This is not a $40,000 flats boat SO I don't try and compare it to one. I take it for what it is. A great entry skiff for people who don't have a big budget, but still want a great boat. I would not hesitate to recommend this boat to anyone.

Also, just got my stern saver on this afternoon, so I hope to get my electronics on soon and my trolling motor is coming next.

Just wanted to add that after 2 days out in the boat only a tablespoon at best water in the bottom hull plug with the boat angled on the ramp. So I do believe the water in the hull are isolated incidents and not to be a concern at all when looking at this boat =) Take care


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## joebucko

Congratulations Carolinaguy on your shake down cruise. It is a fun little boat.

Most boats with manual steering exhibit what is known as Torque Steer. It is usually very easy to adjust for this. Check your Mercury Owners manual for TRIM TAB ADJUSTMENT (starts on page 61 in my manual). It will take a little trial and error to get it adjusted correctly but it is something you will need to do. Here is a link to a YOUTUBE video that may help. 




In the video he shows accessing the Trim Tab bolt from the top, on the Mercury 60 4stroke this bolt head is actually on the bottom of the engine slightly recessed in the center of the Trim Tab itself.

In your case if the boat turns easily to the left/hard to right then move this tab to the left a bit, tighten securely and test it at WOT (wide open throttle) and trimmed up properly. Repeat until your boat turns left & right with about the same amount of effort at WOT.


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## Carolinaguy

Thanks again Joe. I believe that's my problem. My tab is turned way to the right of center. So I will turn it left alittle bit and do another test run this weekend.


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## Sanren

Question for the more experience with this boat. I've had it for just over 2 months now and love it, did the bait well vent mod, added my lowrance (still dialing in the transducer), and added an extra 12 gal tank under the back deck. I have the ipilot on the front port corner with the batter mounted on the same side (BPS did the mount and i don't want to move it and put more holes in my new boat). That being said, i'm having a lot of prop slip when taking off. I have a vengence 13p SS prob, motor is at factory setting and i have it trimmed all the way down. If it is just me its not to bad, a little feathering of the throttle and it will catch and get on plane. If its me an a buddy, if he is sitting on the bait well and i'm at the console, it take a lot of playing with the throttle to get it to bite and get up on plane. once on plane everything works fine. I know JoeB has done a lot of playing with motor height and props, wondering if i just need to lower the motor down the one more hole that it can go, of if i just need to swap out to a 4 blade prop.


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## joebucko

Sanren said:


> Question for the more experience with this boat. I've had it for just over 2 months now and love it, did the bait well vent mod, added my lowrance (still dialing in the transducer), and added an extra 12 gal tank under the back deck. I have the ipilot on the front port corner with the batter mounted on the same side (BPS did the mount and i don't want to move it and put more holes in my new boat). That being said, i'm having a lot of prop slip when taking off. I have a vengence 13p SS prob, motor is at factory setting and i have it trimmed all the way down. If it is just me its not to bad, a little feathering of the throttle and it will catch and get on plane. If its me an a buddy, if he is sitting on the bait well and i'm at the console, it take a lot of playing with the throttle to get it to bite and get up on plane. once on plane everything works fine. I know JoeB has done a lot of playing with motor height and props, wondering if i just need to lower the motor down the one more hole that it can go, of if i just need to swap out to a 4 blade prop.


Sanren,
I honestly don't know what to tell you. The Vengeance 13P is probably the best 3 blade prop you can put on the boat for overall performance. Dropping the engine another hole is only 3/4 of an inch so I doubt it will help this issue much and will affect your top end just a bit. Plus changing engine heights on this/any boat without a jack plate is a PITA. I assume the boat gets on plane fine with you alone but just takes a bit longer with a 2nd person. 
If you are talking about it taking 15-20 seconds longer to get on plane with a 2nd person I'd tell you to just live with it. If its much longer than that you might want to try a Solas Amita 13P 4blade aluminum prop.

When you are alone in the boat and running Wide Open Throttle (WOT) what is your max MPH/RPM with the Vengeance 13P?

You said you added a 12gal tank. Did you also keep the 6gal? If so are you routinely running with 18 gals of fuel in the stern?


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## Sanren

Joe,

Just me at WOT and trimmed i get 6100 to 6150 RPM. Being on the Tampa Bay, I do tend to run around a bit and have the 6 gal tank that came with the skiff mounted on the port side and a 12 gal low profile tank on the starboard side with the cranking battery in the middle. The last thing i want to do is run out of gas while on the water, and i have had the days we have gone through well over 6 gal in a day. I launch from the north tampa bay and will end up all over the bay during the course of the day, all depending on weather and conditions. I was considering the Trophy Sport 14P, as many places i've found say you can swap a vengence for trophy sport with the same pitch and not lose RPM. Just not sure if its worth putting out the lump sum without knowing if it will help. Wondering if raising the motor a notch would help, getting the cav plate not so deep in the water with the extra weight i have in the stern with the extra gas.


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## joebucko

Sanren said:


> Joe,
> 
> Just me at WOT and trimmed i get 6100 to 6150 RPM. Being on the Tampa Bay, I do tend to run around a bit and have the 6 gal tank that came with the skiff mounted on the port side and a 12 gal low profile tank on the starboard side with the cranking battery in the middle. The last thing i want to do is run out of gas while on the water, and i have had the days we have gone through well over 6 gal in a day. I launch from the north tampa bay and will end up all over the bay during the course of the day, all depending on weather and conditions. I was considering the Trophy Sport 14P, as many places i've found say you can swap a vengence for trophy sport with the same pitch and not lose RPM. Just not sure if its worth putting out the lump sum without knowing if it will help. Wondering if raising the motor a notch would help, getting the cav plate not so deep in the water with the extra weight i have in the stern with the extra gas.


You are getting very good numbers out of your rig with the Vengeance 13P. I understand why you carry the extra gas/weight in the stern and agree. I believe raising the engine will only complicate your situation as it will result in every higher RPMs at WOT and could even result in more prop ventilation.

If it were me I'd probably take a risk and buy a Stainless Mercury Trophy Sport 14P 4blade prop. I should solve the ventilation issues and result in a very nice hole shot without sacrificing much if anything on the top end. It might lower your max RPM a bit but that should not be a problem. If that works you can consider raising the engine 1 or even 2 holes. This will bring your motor's ventilation plate to the surface when on plane and probably give you back any lost rpms.

Now you may be in luck because I believe you have access to a company called PROPGODS. http://www.propgods.com/Content2/HOME/tabid/69/Default.aspx
Their business is props and they have a neat program where they bring props to you to test. You can read about it on their site. It might help you decide.


----------



## joebucko

*Mako Pro Skiff with aluminum trailer and folding tongue*

Yo ProSkiffers,

I need some information. I am contemplating putting a folding tongue or swing tongue on my oem aluminum trailer. I know where to get the materials but I have some questions about how your's is installed. 
If you got your aluminum trailer from the factory with the swing-tongue what material is the tongue made of? I have been told that even though the rest of the trailer is aluminum at least a portion of the tongue is galvanized steel(the portion from the hinge to the trailer hitch).

If you have added a swing tongue to your aluminum trailer how has it worked out. Got any tips for me. A few closeup pictures would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance


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## FlatsCatFL

*swing tongue for trailer*

hi JB. i have the factory swing tongue on my '13 aluminum trailer. the tongue is indeed galvanized steel. i'd be glad to supply a close up photo if you think you need a good visual. cheers!


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## Jonc

Sure seems to me that something just isn't right with your motor setup to be experiencing prop blow out. The hull is designed to divert all of the aerated water away from the prop and although these little boats are really finicky with weight placement, I'd doubt if it is just the added 100 lbs. of extra fuel weight causing your problem.

I added two extra batteries to the stern when I first set up my boat and the weight really screwed up the performance but, that's way more weight than 100 lbs. if it were me, I'd try her out without the extra fuel and if the problem still exsists, I believe I'd haul her back to the dealer. Just my two cents...

Jonc



Sanren said:


> Joe,
> 
> Just me at WOT and trimmed i get 6100 to 6150 RPM. Being on the Tampa Bay, I do tend to run around a bit and have the 6 gal tank that came with the skiff mounted on the port side and a 12 gal low profile tank on the starboard side with the cranking battery in the middle. The last thing i want to do is run out of gas while on the water, and i have had the days we have gone through well over 6 gal in a day. I launch from the north tampa bay and will end up all over the bay during the course of the day, all depending on weather and conditions. I was considering the Trophy Sport 14P, as many places i've found say you can swap a vengence for trophy sport with the same pitch and not lose RPM. Just not sure if its worth putting out the lump sum without knowing if it will help. Wondering if raising the motor a notch would help, getting the cav plate not so deep in the water with the extra weight i have in the stern with the extra gas.


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## frankcr

We run a tiller model with a 30 HP motor and have found weight distribution can be a problem. In fact, there is a sticker on the boat giving the recommended seating positions. Bow weight is detrimental in our case plus prop design.

We tried a Michigan Wheel which gives fantastic miles per gallon but blows out constantly so is used as a spare. High mileage, decent speed but an aggravating bear to put up with on a normal fishing trip. The Merc prop works very well as long as weight distribution is followed. Probably a tad faster and much more forgiving.

We have had good results with from two to five on board by placing our weight in the proper positions. Mess with weight distribution and the ride is not very satisfying.


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## Sanren

i will need to test more with weight distribution but will have to wait until mid sept. before i can get her out again. 

I looked over Prop Gods site and they don't have the Trophy Sport listed, only the pro which is WAY to big for our little 60HP motors. Will shoot them off an e-mail later to see if it is something they do carry, and maybe they have some experience with these boats. 

I saw back towards the beginning of the thread, between pages 30 and 60, panhandlekelly got his vengeance swapped out to a trophy sport by BPS. I know with some playing he got it dialed in better but never did see a post with final results.


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## panhandlekelly

Sanren said:


> i will need to test more with weight distribution but will have to wait until mid sept. before i can get her out again.
> 
> I looked over Prop Gods site and they don't have the Trophy Sport listed, only the pro which is WAY to big for our little 60HP motors. Will shoot them off an e-mail later to see if it is something they do carry, and maybe they have some experience with these boats.
> 
> I saw back towards the beginning of the thread, between pages 30 and 60, panhandlekelly got his vengeance swapped out to a trophy sport by BPS. I know with some playing he got it dialed in better but never did see a post with final results.


Sorry about not posting my results. BPS lowered my motor all the way down and changed the prop to 4 blade. Hole shot is still OK, lost about 1-2 mph, and prop blow out is not as bad as long as you pay attention to weight distribution. I've decided to not worry anymore about it and just enjoy this really neat fishing boat.


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## joebucko

panhandlekelly said:


> Sorry about not posting my results. BPS lowered my motor all the way down and changed the prop to 4 blade. Hole shot is still OK, lost about 1-2 mph, and prop blow out is not as bad as long as you pay attention to weight distribution. I've decided to not worry anymore about it and just enjoy this really neat fishing boat.


I am so used to my boat now that I just automatically adjust my trim/throttle/jack plate for the relative conditions. But I was fishing yesterday and took some time to pay attention to my boat's performance a bit.

I was running by myself with my Powertech NREB 13P stainless steel prop (essentially identical to the Mercury Vengeance). I lowered the JP all the way, trimmed down and hit the throttle. I didn't get any ventilation just smooth hole shot and was on plane quickly. One thing I have noticed that smooths the take off for me is as I am initially coming out of the water if I gradually trim my motor UP I seem to get on plane a tad faster and get to WOT/Max RPMs just a bit quicker.

As has already been pointed out the weight distribution is probably the single most important factor in this boat. If you carry extra fuel in the stern it might be possible to add counter weight in the bow but I personally wouldn't do that simply because more weight eats more fuel and affects top end performance and handling a little. The most I might do is ask a passenger to sit on the bow during the hole shot to see if that helps. Other than that just enjoy the boat.


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## Carolinaguy

I have noticed slight prop blowout at takeoff if weight is not right in the boat. I had a buddy sitting on the bow and got prop blow out at take off. I had him move to the back and it corrected itself. I think you guys are correct that weight placement is very important in this boat.

Also, not to change subject, but I'm still pondering trolling motors and I decided to take your guys' advice and look into the ipilot system. I don't know much about them and am spending some time learning about them. I wanted to get the opinion of this group on this trolling motor here.

http://www.basspro.com/Minn-Kota-Ri...GPS-Trolling-System-Combos/product/10215398/#

I was looking at the 55lb trust 54"

Should this one be ok? Is it enough thrust for the anchor hold ability? That is the main reason I'm looking at them now. Thanks for any info =)


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## Mouse52

*Minn Kota Riptide*

This is the same trolling motor I have on my Pro Skiff 17. Works great. the 12v 55pounds provides plenty of power even in the wind. The I Pilot is worth the money. I was like you and very skeptical about spending this much extra for the I Pilot but after reading a lot of reviews I am glad I did. It gives you a lot of flexibility on where you are in the boat.


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## njgradywhite

I bought an onboard battery charger for the Mako and want to install it back under the rear casting deck on the port side, side wall. Has anyone else put a charger there?

Sidewalls strong enough/thick enough to hold it in place even through the pumps of riding around?

Any other ideas one here to mount it?


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## joebucko

njgradywhite said:


> I bought an onboard battery charger for the Mako and want to install it back under the rear casting deck on the port side, side wall. Has anyone else put a charger there?
> 
> Sidewalls strong enough/thick enough to hold it in place even through the pumps of riding around?
> 
> Any other ideas one here to mount it?


nigradywhite
Are you charging the starter battery in the stern or do you also have a trolling motor battery in the bow?


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## njgradywhite

joebucko said:


> nigradywhite
> Are you charging the starter battery in the stern or do you also have a trolling motor battery in the bow?


Sorry, yes I'm starting the cranking battery. I have an auto float switch that keeps her afloat when I'm not around. Sometimes I'm away for 2 weeks or more and I come back to a dead battery.

Sometimes I would just leave the battery charger plugged in for the couple weeks if I could since it has a on hold mode.

I dont care if I have to jump it to start it when it dies but my big worry the float switch will be dead and not trigger the bilge.


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## joebucko

njgradywhite said:


> Sorry, yes I'm starting the cranking battery. I have an auto float switch that keeps her afloat when I'm not around. Sometimes I'm away for 2 weeks or more and I come back to a dead battery.
> 
> Sometimes I would just leave the battery charger plugged in for the couple weeks if I could since it has a on hold mode.
> 
> I dont care if I have to jump it to start it when it dies but my big worry the float switch will be dead and not trigger the bilge.


The sidewalls are pretty thin. I have mounted rod holders to the sides with no problem. The charger is a little heavier than my rod holders, that coupled with the pounding its going to get would concern me just a bit. If it were me I'd mount it with stainless steel screws and before I did my final mount I'd coat the back of it with some Marine GOOP adhesive. I have used this clear adhesive in a number of places on my boat and it does an incredible job of bonding. Dries very quickly as well.


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## frankcr

The inner liner is very thin. I have mounted rod storage holders but would not put anything else on the liner without a patch of fiberglass attached to spread out the load and provide thickness capable of holding screws.

Wish I had known about the Goop but did not realize just how thin the liner was before mounting the holders.


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## njgradywhite

Hmm good info guys. Thanks.

I'll look into the Goop sounds like it should work. 

Any idea where I can mount this charger in the stern? Unless I just attach it and then plug it in before I leave and not permanent mount it to anything. Just let it sit?


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## njgradywhite

joebucko said:


> Looking forward to pictures of your boat all ducked out with camo this fall.


Running into some challenges with the duck blind. Center console is too tall but I can always cover it up. The way the blind fits to the boat it does not hold onto the sides well because of the design. However it fits great on the cleats.

I am having a buddy help make a skirt that will hide the sides and back casting deck so that shouldn't be too much of an issue.

Just not sure if I should go though all the work.

I want to because I don't think it has been done and I could really make it a fun project. However the blind is $800 and it really isn't a great fit but I could definitely make it work.

Other option is a custom build with materials I get at the shore. Which is definitely a possibility still.


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## O2BFSHN

I've heard a rumor that in the next model year they will offer a 19' Pro Skiff. Have any of you heard the same?


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## Homestead Fl Man

How about Bimini tops I know I saw a picture a while back. I usually do my fishing in the late afternoon and evenings but when I do go in the daytime the boat turns into an oven. I through a bucket of water over my sons head the other day to cool him down. I was thinking I would prefer the Bimini top to cover more of the front of the boat as that's where we seem to sit when we go swimming and relaxing. Anyone can chime in on the sun blocking strategys and Mods.


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## flounder boy

Homestead Fl Man said:


> How about Bimini tops I know I saw a picture a while back. I usually do my fishing in the late afternoon and evenings but when I do go in the daytime the boat turns into an oven. I through a bucket of water over my sons head the other day to cool him down. I was thinking I would prefer the Bimini top to cover more of the front of the boat as that's where we seem to sit when we go swimming and relaxing. Anyone can chime in on the sun blocking strategys and Mods.


My MPS 17 is at BP now having a Bimini installed. I will post some pics and give a report this weekend if all goes well.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Mouse52

Mine is mounted on the port side stern and seems to be well protected and work well. BPS did the mount.


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## Jonc

*Boat covers*

Canada trip was a blast and I do believe small mouth bass lb. for lb. have to be the toughest fighting fresh water fish there is. Didn't get into any 20" plus fish but many 15" - 20".

Ok... Looking at Weathermax covers and wondering if any of you guys have one? A bit pricey but from what I've read so far, high quality cover. Taking suggestions on other types as well .

Jonc


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## Homestead Fl Man

I'm looking forward to your bimin top pics Flounder boy, may I ask the total cost with installation was for you ? Hopefully it's something I can do this winter. 
I never had prop blow out until I installed the second battery (next to original battery) and carry an extra tank of gas also in the stern. But I adjust the sitting arrangement of my fishing partner and off we go back to normal. This is on the 17 with vengeance prop.


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## yeocokent

Has anyone replaced the 20 amp breaker at the battery with a standard fuse? We were washing the boat this evening to get ready to fish tomorrow and I think my son might have doused the breaker with water. No powere to the electronics and it takes forever for the breaker to reset. Seems it might be easier to just replace it with a standard fuse.


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## jpmizelle

*prop*

Sanren, I am dealing with some of what you are as far as props are concerned. Joe has addressed the majority of it, as the Vengeance 13P is a great all around prop. It does me fine with just me and a buddy, but as the load gets heavier and we max out capacity in the summer with kids n gear, I have issues. I will be trying the Solas Amita 4 blade 12P prop today, as we will be loaded to the gill for a good ol ******* yachtclub day. I will be interested to see if it does the trick. I will post my results and am hoping for the best.


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## Fisherman305

Hello everyone, new Miami user here. Like many have said, after countless hours reading this post i found after google search, and youtube reviews, I picked up a 17 about 1 month ago. Perfect for wife, kids, and to stay on some shallow reef down here in biscayne national park & the florida keys. Great boat, no complaints, but a pain in the a-- to load this boat! I have searched everywhere and have found no real solutions to picking out the "right" ladder. Also, anyone here upgraded to 12g tank? Thats all i'm missing to make this little skiff complete.


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## Fisherman305

picking her up









first voyage without rails









rails finally installed









and "curtains" installed


















thanks to this site for convincing me on this bad a-- skiff


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## njgradywhite

Fisherman305 said:


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Congrats! Love those curtains and rails. Very nice


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## MichaelMcNease

Fisherman305 said:


> picking her up
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> 
> thanks to this site for convincing me on this bad a-- skiff


Looks good. How sturdy are the curtains when you drive on the highway with it and did bass pro have those or did you have to special order them? Rails look good been thinking about them for my skiff as well.


----------



## joebucko

Fisherman305 said:


> Hello everyone, new Miami user here. Like many have said, after countless hours reading this post i found after google search, and youtube reviews, I picked up a 17 about 1 month ago. Perfect for wife, kids, and to stay on some shallow reef down here in biscayne national park & the florida keys. Great boat, no complaints, but a pain in the a-- to load this boat! I have searched everywhere and have found no real solutions to picking out the "right" ladder. Also, anyone here upgraded to 12g tank? Thats all i'm missing to make this little skiff complete.


Welcome Fisherman,
Lots of people have added 12gal tanks. Most recent I read about was SANREN who talked about it a couple of pages back. The height of the rear deck is pretty critical so talk to some of these guys who have already added them to ensure you get one that fits under the deck.
Ladders have been added by a number of people as well. I added one that is strictly for emergency use but there are better choices than mine


----------



## Fisherman305

Thanks. Rails and curtains both were on back order. One month after purchase (last week) I took it back to tracker for install. As far as curtains go, they are very tight and sturdy, and very secured under tow. They fasten up top with stron buttons and held to the deck with a rubber rail you slide in. 

For the ladder, I have seen a few on here but not sure where to purchase? And I'm not trying to spend a fortune on a custom one either. I want to use boat mainly for shallow reef diving for lobster and to spear, so I want I good, functional ladder that is easy to board frequently. I'm not sure why Mako/bass pro would consider the two handles they put on the stern a "ladder". First time trying to board was a shocker. 

And for the 12 gallon, bps has one that's a slim model and fits perfectly under deck. I'm just worried since every time I have returned back to dock I have had very low levels of fuel, and I just want some added range.


----------



## Carolinaguy

Well I have now owned my skiff for alittle over a month now. All I can say is this boat is great. Finally got FF on and TM is coming soon. 

I have a question, And I'm sure its been answered allready somwhere in the 240 pages lol. I was going to get the slim 12 gallon tank from BPS as mentioned above. My question is. Is it ok to just put it where the current tank is at or should it be moved as it will add more wieght?


----------



## frankcr

Came home on fumes once with a different boat, so we started carrying a spare 6 gallon tank to assure we could get home. There is a very good argument for a spare tank rather than increased capacity in the main tank unless you fit the rig with a Floscan or other means to watch the fuel usage.

A 3 gallon spare could save the day for you if you do not watch your fuel usage and could be stowed out of the way for an emergency.

It gets really lonesome on the water when fuel runs low.


----------



## KeithD.

I installed another 6 1/2 gallon tank on the port side and swap over the fuel line when needed. This has worked well for me and also helps to spread the weight out.


----------



## Carolinaguy

KeithD. said:


> I installed another 6 1/2 gallon tank on the port side and swap over the fuel line when needed. This has worked well for me and also helps to spread the weight out.


Hey Keith. Any chance you could take a picture of this setup i was gonna just buy the 6 gallon tank from bps for $50. But there service guy said not to buy the cheap one and i should buy the $170 one thats identical to the one it came with. Since the lines and regulator are on the tank itself. I would love to do mine like yours. Just not sure how you jsut switch it over like you said. any info would be great..Thanks =)


----------



## Carolinaguy

I was going to use one of these.

http://www.basspro.com/Moeller-Marine-Products-360-Series-Portable-Fuel-Tanks/product/10210684/

But they said not to since ther ewas no regulator etc. I'm confused lol this is my first 4 stroke motor. On my old boat i had 2 tanks and I could jsut pass the gas line back and forth. I was hoping to do the same with this one.


----------



## Fisherman305

Carolinaguy said:


> I was going to use one of these.
> 
> http://www.basspro.com/Moeller-Marine-Products-360-Series-Portable-Fuel-Tanks/product/10210684/
> 
> But they said not to since ther ewas no regulator etc. I'm confused lol this is my first 4 stroke motor. On my old boat i had 2 tanks and I could jsut pass the gas line back and forth. I was hoping to do the same with this one.


Which is the one they recommeneded? I might just go with having 2 6 gallon tanks, and not one 13, for weight reasons. Why wouldn't they recommended the $50 tank?


----------



## Carolinaguy

Fisherman305 said:


> Which is the one they recommeneded? I might just go with having 2 6 gallon tanks, and not one 13, for weight reasons. Why wouldn't they recommended the $50 tank?


They recommended the same quicksilver tank that came factory with the boat. It is $170 from bps. You have to get it from there parts department. there not on the floor. The service guy told me the QS tank that comes with it, comes with all the lines hookups and fuel regulater allready attached to it. To where the $50 has none of that and im guessing that fuel regulater is important.

I was hoping to use the cheaper one as it's mainly just gonna be a security blanket lol. If anyone can chime in on this that would be wonderful. I'd love to know if i could in fact use the $50 tank somehow


----------



## frankcr

They want or need to keep the EPA folks happy by containing vapors. I got fittings from West Marine to convert from a female to male tank connector for the spare tank.


----------



## Carolinaguy

frankcr said:


> They want or need to keep the EPA folks happy by containing vapors. I got fittings from West Marine to convert from a female to male tank connector for the spare tank.


So then you dont need the run the regulator? for the extra tank?


----------



## racingdc9

Carolinaguy said:


> So then you dont need the run the regulator? for the extra tank?


I have the same boat. Mine came with two tanks. (Paid extra) All u have to do is get the same connectors, hose and parts for the new tank and you're fine. Just make the hose just like the one on the existing tank. Just make sure you buy a good tank that won't leak.


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## racingdc9

Joebucko, I have the Vengeance 13P prop on mine and I also have the stingray hydrofoil installed. The last time I took the boat out, at WOT it would not hit 6k rpm. Is that because of the hydrofoil? I hardly ever go WOT so I'm not sure if it's done this before or not.


----------



## joebucko

racingdc9 said:


> Joebucko, I have the Vengeance 13P prop on mine and I also have the stingray hydrofoil installed. The last time I took the boat out, at WOT it would not hit 6k rpm. Is that because of the hydrofoil? I hardly ever go WOT so I'm not sure if it's done this before or not.


If you just added the hydrofoil that is most likely why you can't hit the max RPM at WOT. It could also be the air temperature. It is awfully hot across the country and all motors tend to be less efficient(lowers RPM) at higher temperatures because of reduced air density.

On the subject of hydrofoils. I assume you added the hydrofoil to help with the hole shot. It should do that but...if you have not raised your engine from the factory setting the hydrofoil is not skimming the water when you are on plane. It is most likely being dragged through the water which is producing drag on your boat. If you can live with that and you are satisfied with the hydrofoil's other performance advantages then just go with it. If not you will either need to remove the hydrofoil or raise the engine probably 2 holes (1.5") to get the hfoil skimming at planing speed.


----------



## racingdc9

Ok. Thanks


----------



## KeithD.

I bought the same tank that came with the boat from BPS. I paid 106.00 for mine not 170.00. All I do is disconnect the fuel line from one tank and plug it into the other tank. It is very simple to do. Works great.


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## prod1944

Fisherman305, You can purchase the antisiphon regulator from bass pro for 25.00 dollars. Buy the spare tank and splice the regulator into the line just like the tank that came with it. I have the two tanks like KeithD and I like that better than one tank for 2 reasons. I never drag my boat to the gas station to get gas, I take one or both tanks out when I go to put gas in my truck. The second reason is when I run out of gas in one tank I know what my limitations our for getting home. Last weekend I covered 79 miles on one trip. Fished the back country and then crossed to the atlantic side and fished. One 12 gal tank I would be wondering how much gas I have left.


----------



## Sanren

Been busy and haven't had a chance to look at the thread in a while. I got a slim 12 gal tank from West Marine and replaced the factory tank with it (starboard side). I then got another tie down strap and put the 6 gal factory tank on the port side. so the back of my boat, going from starboard to port is 12 gal tank, battery, 6 gal tank. The pressure regulator and fitting for the fuel line can all be bought separately and you don't need to spend the 170 for the 6 gal tank that comes with it. the 12 gal west marine tank was 115, plus regulator, fuel line connector and tie down straps i was out the door for around 150. When i run out of gas from the 12 gal tank, i just disconnect the fuel line from the 12 gal and plug it into the 6 gal. having the 6 as a backup works for me since i'm in Tampa bay and 6 gallons can get me a straight shot to somewhere with either gas or a dock. Every now and then, i will start the day using the 6 gal tank just to use the gas up in there. don't like to let the gas sit more than about 6 to 8 weeks in a spare tank, even with stabil.


----------



## Sanren

something to remember with the 12 gal tanks; first, measure the height of your back deck and measure the tank you want to put in there, they are a little bit of a tight fit. make sure you take into account the height of the gas lines and pressure regulator that may be sitting ontop of the tank.

Second, its been HOT in Tampa, when the tank gets hot, it expands. took me a moment to try to figure this out when i was trying to top it off last time i was out, few weeks ago, could figure out why the tank was stuck. as soon as I took a step back and looked and thought for a moment, i was able to open the fill cap releasing the pressure and the tank fit perfectly again. Not all new tanks come with a screw type vent on the cap anymore, this one didn't. The cap is vented, but it seems to only allow air in and not out.


----------



## Carolinaguy

Finally got it in today


----------



## jpmizelle

*Amita 4 blade 12P*

Well, I finally got the chance to water test with the new Amita 4 blade 12 P, since I was having problems with the Vengence 13P and running heavy loads as we do family fun in the summer. I had 5 people on board, cooler absolutely full and with 30 lbs of ice; 12 gal tank full and the ladies each had 2 handbags they carried on , as well as a small portable grill. It came up on plane much easier and most important to me, was able to carry this load at a lower rpm and without effort. Max rpm's with this load was 5600 and top end was only 28, but when you're stuffed this heavy, who cares about top end. I did not get the chance to run it empty to see how well it did. I will keep the Vengeance 13P on for fishing in the winter and spring when it's just me n a buddy, and switch over to the Amita 12P for summer running heavies. Thanks for everybody's input on here.


----------



## prod1944

jpmizelle, really curious as to what your rpm and speed is with 2 or 3 people in the boat and less weight. I get great performance out of the boat with the vengence but also have prop blow out. I trim like joebucko does when coming up on a plane. I almost always have 3 in the boat with cooler for fish, 13 gals of gas, live well full, anchor, seat cooler with ice and drinks and normal tackle for 3.


----------



## frankcr

The right prop for the job is using the right tool for efficiency. We have two different pitch props for each of our boats which gives the flexibility to fine tune for trips. You cannot expect one prop to handle very different loads and run the motor in its proper operating range. Happy to hear that you are taking care of your motor.

People generally look for the highest speed they can get out of a lightly loaded rig and forget that lugging an engine can be costly and provide less than desirable performance.


----------



## racingdc9

Sometimes when I'm running the boat at normal speeds and I go over a 2ft wave and catch a little air and the motor makes a high pitch wurrr like it free spun and the motor cuts out. It would start right back up again and I would continue on. Is that what you call prop blow out?


----------



## joebucko

racingdc9 said:


> Sometimes when I'm running the boat at normal speeds and I go over a 2ft wave and catch a little air and the motor makes a high pitch wurrr like it free spun and the motor cuts out. It would start right back up again and I would continue on. Is that what you call prop blow out?


Does your motor actually stop and you have to manually restart it or does it just slow down considerably then immediately return to speed?

My engine has never actually stopped running in these conditions. When I hit a large wave at speed the prop can break the surface of the water(blows out) which allows it to spin much faster than normal and I hit the Rev.Limiter for the engine in the 6200 rpm range. You can see the tachometer suddenly jump and peg at 6200 and the boat looses some speed since the prop is not completely in the water. I slow down a bit and/or trim down and the prop fully reengages and I am back running like normal.

I can usually tell when this is about to occur because the tach gets a little jumpy just before it happens and I adjust speed/trim and normally avoid it.


----------



## racingdc9

Yeah, it dies and I have to turn the key to restart


----------



## joebucko

jpmizelle said:


> Well, I finally got the chance to water test with the new Amita 4 blade 12 P, since I was having problems with the Vengence 13P and running heavy loads as we do family fun in the summer. I had 5 people on board, cooler absolutely full and with 30 lbs of ice; 12 gal tank full and the ladies each had 2 handbags they carried on , as well as a small portable grill. It came up on plane much easier and most important to me, was able to carry this load at a lower rpm and without effort. Max rpm's with this load was 5600 and top end was only 28, but when you're stuffed this heavy, who cares about top end. I did not get the chance to run it empty to see how well it did. I will keep the Vengeance 13P on for fishing in the winter and spring when it's just me n a buddy, and switch over to the Amita 12P for summer running heavies. Thanks for everybody's input on here.


Thanks for the great write up on the Amita 12P. I was wondering how it would perform. I suspected it would improve your hole shot but didn't have a clue to the impact on top end speed and WOT/RPM. At 5600 you are well within the operating range of the engine and with the load you describe I think this is very good performance.


----------



## Fisherman305

prod1944 said:


> Fisherman305, You can purchase the antisiphon regulator from bass pro for 25.00 dollars. Buy the spare tank and splice the regulator into the line just like the tank that came with it. I have the two tanks like KeithD and I like that better than one tank for 2 reasons. I never drag my boat to the gas station to get gas, I take one or both tanks out when I go to put gas in my truck. The second reason is when I run out of gas in one tank I know what my limitations our for getting home. Last weekend I covered 79 miles on one trip. Fished the back country and then crossed to the atlantic side and fished. One 12 gal tank I would be wondering how much gas I have left.


That's great mileage. You have 2 6gallon tanks? Or a 12 and a 6 gallon? That's what I'm going to do, thanks for the response!

I am still stuck on this ladder issue and not sure if anyone can help. Someone at bps told me I couldn't install one by myself only through bps because if not I'd void the warranty. I'm looking for a comfortable ladder since it will be used a lot when I free dive. Any input or help here would be nice. I don't want to purchase on of those you hang over boat since space is an issue. I saw one ladder that comes standard on the CC's which is a single black bar and the rungs fold out.


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## frankcr

Since when does installing an accessory void a warranty? Sounds like someone was talking out of his hat to you.

The gunwale is a strong point with the actual hull weaker in foam filled boats, so selecting a ladder requires care.


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## jpmizelle

*Amita 4 blade 12P*

I am sorry I was not able to test it with a lighter load; we had 4 boats tied up among 20 others and had kids everywhere; no chance to test it with a lighter load once we had all our redneckin supplies on the island. 
I must say I was greatly impressed in the ability to carry a load at a cruising speed of about 25 mph and approx 4000 rpms without it having to be wound up.


----------



## Carolinaguy

*Need help*

Ok I am in need of some help. I have a new Minn Kota ST with i-pilot. I have no clue how you mount this thing on this boat. I have installed about a dozen trolling motors before and this one has me stumped. I got a pre-fabbed piece of starboard from tracker parts in BPS, and it fits nice up in the left corner but this trolling motor is smaller than any one I have ever had. How do you bolt it through since you cant get your hand all the way up in the front. Please any help/pictures or anything would be great.. :headknock:headknock:headknock

Thanks as always


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## Mouse52

*Need Help Minn Kota ST*

I mounted mine about a foot in on the starboard side of the bow. I used the rubber expansion bolts for the back hole and bolts thru the front. The front is thru the bow gunwhale. I did have to drill new holes in the mounting plate for the back holes.


----------



## MichaelMcNease

Carolinaguy said:


> Ok I am in need of some help. I have a new Minn Kota ST with i-pilot. I have no clue how you mount this thing on this boat. I have installed about a dozen trolling motors before and this one has me stumped. I got a pre-fabbed piece of starboard from tracker parts in BPS, and it fits nice up in the left corner but this trolling motor is smaller than any one I have ever had. How do you bolt it through since you cant get your hand all the way up in the front. Please any help/pictures or anything would be great.. :headknock:headknock:headknock
> 
> Thanks as always


Ok this may be more confusing then helpful but wanted to give it a shot. I mounted mine on the left front side of my skiff. I used the prefabbed star board from bps as well and a quick release mount to. I drilled 4 bolts thru the prefabbed star board into my front deck to hold it down but also from the quick release mount put 2 bolts thru the star board piece as well but counter sunk them into it. Took me awhile to get it lined up just perfect but works like a charm. The other 2 holes i drilled thru the front edge of the skiff. Which I didn't care to do really but the guys at bps said it's what they would do if they were to install it. It has about a 4-5 inch over hang so that it goes into the water easy and doesn't hit the front of the boat. All my bolts that I put in thru the deck and the star board are counter sunk in so they don't stick out. Just used a bigger drill bit to counter the hole a little. For the quick release mount is where 2 of the front bolts went in thru the front of the boat. I had to use stainless steel bolts that were about 4 inches I think to fit thru the mount and front of the boat. I coated them with a water sealant and used rubber washers as well to seal any air space between the boat and nut. I haven't had any issues with leaks or anything but in my opinion i'm not really happy with how it looks if you look under it and see the bolts sticking out. Here is a few pics of what mine looks like if it will help you. Hope you figure it out and get to try out the trolling motor soon.


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## prod1944

Carolinaguy I installed my tm similar to MichaelMcnease. I made sure that my front bolt holes were in line with the roll of the gunnel. I also had to redrill a couple of holes in the motor bracket. I put bolts all the way thru the deck and used 1/2 starboard under the deck with flat washers and locking nuts. You can reach under that deck but you need someone on the smaller side to hold the starboard in place to drill thru deck and starboard. Install one nut and bolt to help hold starboard in place then drill the rest. By the way I use (2)6 1/2 gal tanks.


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## FlatsCatFL

*prefabbed star board from bps*

"I used the prefabbed star board from bps"

hello all. i haven't installed my trolling motor yet, so this topic is of particular interest to me. i didn't know BPS/TM sold a pre-fabed star board mount for a trolling motor. how much did they charge for it?


----------



## MichaelMcNease

FlatsCatFL said:


> "I used the prefabbed star board from bps"
> 
> hello all. i haven't installed my trolling motor yet, so this topic is of particular interest to me. i didn't know BPS/TM sold a pre-fabed star board mount for a trolling motor. how much did they charge for it?


Not a hundred percent sure because I can't find my receipt but it was more then I was wanting to pay for it. If I remember right was about 60 bucks. Got it from the parts department at my local bps. Had to ask for it and they then had a skiff in the shop and showed me how they would do it if they were installing it and how it all fit in there just perfect.


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## Sanren

The Home Depot here in Tampa sells 1/2 inch 2' x 4' starboard for about 50 bucks. save yourself 10 bucks and get the sheet from HD, use a piece of cardboard to make a template and cut your own out and that will leave you with enough starboard for almost any other project you want to do with the skiff, like making the hatch cover for the center console. The stuff is REAL easy to work with.


----------



## Carolinaguy

FlatsCatFL said:


> "I used the prefabbed star board from bps"
> 
> hello all. i haven't installed my trolling motor yet, so this topic is of particular interest to me. i didn't know BPS/TM sold a pre-fabed star board mount for a trolling motor. how much did they charge for it?


Hey there Flats. The piece is $57 with your VIP card. Here is what it looks like.
It comes from the BPS tracker parts department only.


----------



## Sanren

took the boat out both days the past weekend and played with weight distribution to see if could narrow down the prop blowout problem. On saturday it was me and a buddy of mine, my buddy is about 250# so i had him moving around to different places on the boat and then tried a hole shot. Weight distribution is HUGE on this boat. with him standing on the bow, going from a stand still to WOT had almost zero blow out and jumped on plane pretty quickly. sitting on bait well there was a little bit of blow out but feathering the throttle took care of it. standing on the stern was the worst, could not do a hole shot WOT, to much blow out and it wouldn't get enough speed to effectively get on plane. If i started out slow and slowly increased the speed it would eventually get up enough to get on plane and then it wasn't a problem. Oddly enough, the second best place for him to be on the boat for a hole shot was sitting on the cooler seat behind the helm with me. that worked better than him sitting on the bait well. standing on the bow was by far the best. I am using the vengeance 13p and have the stock 6 gal tank and an extra 12 gal tank under the rear deck. My motor is at factory height setting. We had the helm cooler filled with 40lbs of ice and a bunch of drinks. had 2 tackle boxes and enough gear for 6 people, anchor chain and rope, 10ft cast net, and the bait well was full. Thinking about getting a 100lbs bag of play sand and putting it in the "dry" storage box on the bow, since it seems more weight on the bow tends to help. I did have the iPilot and batter up front for all of the testing.
On sunday we went out again, but this time it was my buddy and his pops. we tried the hole shot test again, but my buddy's dad was sitting on the baitwell seat (bum leg and can't move around to well, so we just let him stay there for all of the testing.). with the addition of the 3rd person, the hole shot to WOT had a lot less prop blowout at any place my buddy was standing.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

Carolinaguy said:


> Hey there Flats. The piece is $57 with your VIP card. Here is what it looks like.
> It comes from the BPS tracker parts department only.


thanks Carolinaguy for the info, tight lines!


----------



## Scrumptrelecent

*Pro 16 Length Question*

I'm sure this has been answered but I've searched about 90% of this thread and can't find anything. For you owners of the Pro 16, if I tilt the motor down, and have the swing tongue on the trailer, what's the overall length?


----------



## Jonc

*16 length*



Scrumptrelecent said:


> I'm sure this has been answered but I've searched about 90% of this thread and can't find anything. For you owners of the Pro 16, if I tilt the motor down, and have the swing tongue on the trailer, what's the overall length?


Just had mine in the garage to get her cleaned up after setting on a lift all summer. I don't have the break away tongue but it's right at 21' with the motor tilted all the way down.

JonC


----------



## Sanren

not sure about the 16, but the 17 with the 60HP i put the swing tongue on it and overall it comes out at about 19'8".

I didn't need all the bells and whistles that come with the deluxe trailer, didn't want to pay for them, and the deluxe trailer doesn't come with a swing tongue anymore. I got my swing tongue bracket online for about 70 bucks. Putting the bracket on myself, i got to decide how far back it went, and its about as far back as i could put it. Simple install, used an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel and a step bit on my drill. entire process took about 45 minutes. The first 15 minutes of that was talking myself into cutting up my brand new trailer that i just brought home.


----------



## stang33331

Hi Fisferman305, Nice boat. I like your bimini top very much. Where did you get it done and how much was it?


----------



## Carolinaguy

@ Fisherrman305 What are the specs of your bimini top? I'm trying to get one now and I'm confused seems like 54" height seems like it might be to short but don't know for sure. Any info from anyone else on there size/specs would be great..Thanks


----------



## John Kocurek

*Pro Skiff 17 ft.*









I put this top on my boat, it is 17 ft, installed the brackets on the inner rail on the side of the boat.I also installed the rails fore & aft, good investment, added the rails for safety, something to grab on to.this top is centered perfect, enough room on the bow platform to fish, back platform also clear for person to fish standing up.Head clearance is close,I'm 6-2 and have room to walk under canopy.The other feature that i like it has sock built into the canopy.Very hardy material also.Purchased it on ebay.


----------



## Carolinaguy

John Kocurek said:


> I put this top on my boat, it is 17 ft, installed the brackets on the inner rail on the side of the boat.I also installed the rails fore & aft, good investment, added the rails for safety, something to grab on to.this top is centered perfect, enough room on the bow platform to fish, back platform also clear for person to fish standing up.Head clearance is close,I'm 6-2 and have room to walk under canopy.The other feature that i like it has sock built into the canopy.Very hardy material also.Purchased it on ebay.


Thanks for info. What is the height of your rails?


----------



## dk2429

I asked this a long time ago.. But since this post has an additional 260k post, I must ask again. Why does this post have over 1mil views?


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## frankcr

Perhaps interest in the subject craft might be high and a good place to have any questions one might want answered in a convenient location.

If the thread is not of interest to you, why are you reading it would be a more reasonable question unless you are just trolling and have no information owners would find interesting to consider.


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## John Kocurek

*Rail height*

The height of the rails I purchased at BP are 5 inches, rails are stainless, made in China .If you mount them yourself put some Teflon tape on the bolts, that China steel wants to gall.i 'd post pic but boat covered up and in storage.sure happy I put them on the boat.price was 450.00 plus tax.


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## Jonc

frankcr said:


> Perhaps interest in the subject craft might be high and a good place to have any questions one might want answered in a convenient location.
> 
> If the thread is not of interest to you, why are you reading it would be a more reasonable question unless you are just trolling and have no information owners would find interesting to consider.


BAM!!


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## Carolinaguy

John Kocurek said:


> The height of the rails I purchased at BP are 5 inches, rails are stainless, made in China .If you mount them yourself put some Teflon tape on the bolts, that China steel wants to gall.i 'd post pic but boat covered up and in storage.sure happy I put them on the boat.price was 450.00 plus tax.


Sorry I meant the rail height of your bimini top =)


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## Carolinaguy

frankcr said:


> Perhaps interest in the subject craft might be high and a good place to have any questions one might want answered in a convenient location.
> 
> If the thread is not of interest to you, why are you reading it would be a more reasonable question unless you are just trolling and have no information owners would find interesting to consider.


Well said


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## njgradywhite

After 5 months in the water...









Yuck. Just doing a little clean up and putting it back in for the fall and winter!


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## John Kocurek

The height is is 86 inches total, 69 inches of top railing, add 17 inches of boat depth.If you look at page 32 , a very good pic of top mounted on boat.Flatscatfl posted the pic.His has four straps for tie down, the one I purchased had 2 poles and 2 straps.


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## John Kocurek

I made mistake, fully erect the top is 75 inches, from bottom of boat to canopy.


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## Sanren

one bit of advice to anybody putting a bimini, make sure you have some other sort of rod storage. the vertical rod holders in the console work well when the bimini is down, but once you put it up, your rods won't fit anymore.


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## racingdc9

njgradywhite said:


> After 5 months in the water...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yuck. Just doing a little clean up and putting it back in for the fall and winter!


Wow, you have ring around the hull. I didn't even recognize it at first.


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## njgradywhite

racingdc9 said:


> Wow, you have ring around the hull. I didn't even recognize it at first.


Yeah not too bad after all cleaned up. Bottom paint worked great so far.


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## Carolinaguy

Hey Flatscat do you by chance remeber the specs on your bimini top. I looked back on page 32 and i want your same top. Im having a hard time finding the right one. Thanks in advance.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

Carolinaguy said:


> Hey Flatscat do you by chance remeber the specs on your bimini top. I looked back on page 32 and i want your same top. Im having a hard time finding the right one. Thanks in advance.


Hi carolinaguy,
Biminis come in different heights. I got the tallest I could find so I could stand up under it. I think is was a 54''. That height plus the approx. 20" you get from the liner deck to the top of the side wall puts you at @ 6'. They also come in different widths too. Try to find one with a width of about 78". Page 32 does show a pic of my top with a brief explanation of how I had to cut the cross bows to get it narrow enough. A Google search for what you need is your best hope to find one. I looked at my old Amazon purchases and the place I bought mine from only has three bow units at the moment. Hope this helps.


----------



## njgradywhite

Here is a update on operation Mako Proskiff Duck Boat

Mounted the blind last weekend. All of the white that is still exposed is getting covered with 500 denier brown water repellent fabric what I will attach to the blind it self.



















The whole blind folds to one side for transport


----------



## joebucko

Amazing transformation njgradywhite. Nice Job.


----------



## njgradywhite

Well the hurricane missed NJ but we are getting slammed by a noreaster. Right now we have flooding, 35-40 kt winds with gusts to 55 kts. Thankfully the Mako is still on the driveway on the trailer and not back in the water.

Wish us luck, going to be a rough couple days with some of the stronger winds and rain tomorrow. Gust to 60 kts with sustained 40 kts!

Couple bad pics from today. Phone was in my truck and used a tablet. This wasn't even that bad when these were taken. Now, it is bad.


----------



## racingdc9

Be safe


----------



## Fisherman305

Carolinaguy said:


> @ Fisherrman305 What are the specs of your bimini top? I'm trying to get one now and I'm confused seems like 54" height seems like it might be to short but don't know for sure. Any info from anyone else on there size/specs would be great..Thanks


sorry for late response... I purchased bimini from this site: www.kapscomoto.com and got the 3 bow 67"-72" which measures 6'. I installed mounts on the very inner part of hull, and the bimini came with a boot. Good material and have had no problems. Just wish I ordered in black. I didn't care for color at time of purchase, and went with the grey which was the only color in stock.


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## njgradywhite

So its very hard trying to hide a white center console lol

Next steps..

1. Trim skirts and add extra cover on front.
2. Paint skirts
3. Mud up blind
4. Attach base fake grass
5. Attach real grass


----------



## flounder boy

Gonna try and load pics of mods completed since purchase in March.








This the Bimini from bass pro









This would be the ladder custom built for the boat









These are the rod holders. I had a hard time settling on the right rod holders due to the non flat surface of the gunnels. These mount individually and work great.









Added a second tank and can run all day on 12 gallons.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## joebucko

Nice job flounderboy. The ladder is especially awesome. Are the black things I see on the grab rail and trolling motor drink holders?


----------



## flounder boy

Yes those are cup/rod holders. The brand name is robo cup and clip mount to grab bars, rails, etc... Its nice to have a rod holder on the trolling motor shaft when fishing from the front deck. Next mod is the wedge for the transducer mount you shared with me. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Homestead Fl Man

I took a trip this past weekend to Big Pine and finally took some major water over the bow when I was in Bahia Honda channel. I really thought the boat was done . It was flooded inside with about a foot of water maybe more. A few mistakes on my part caused this but we reacted quickly. 
Im sharing this just to keep you guys alert and never get to confident on the skiff because one mistake in a rough channel can easily ruin your day. 
First I was to cocky in the channel because I had just came back from offshore (yes I know I should not be doing that) but the ocean was flat as a plate and everything went fine. So when I was in the channel cruising I took my eyes off the waves for a few seconds to chat with my uncle. Luckily my friend sitting in the front yelled at me right as the wave was coming over the front. It looked bad, like we were duck diving the whole boat. Right then I slowed down but not completely. I switched the bilge on and had my uncle steer us to calm water while my friend and I grabbed two buckets and scooped water out frantically. I also moved more forward to balance the boat because I was worried that the Battery would get flooded. I truly do not know how the electrical did not get fried. The whole ordeal lasted probably 5 minutes. The bilge did the rest of the work and we enjoyed the rest of our weekend.
But I now realize I had to much wait on the boat. Extra gas, 60 lbs of ice. Live well full of water. 3 big adults. Besides all our gear and beer and water for two days to drink. 4 chum boxes & more bait. Extra cooler. 
I will still probably take the skiff off shore a little on a flat day but I learned you can't do everything in one day. I was trying to spear fish, go fishing, go to the sand bar , bbq & drink beer , then more fishing . Which all added up to a lot of weight on the boat. I'm definetly going to lighten the load and focus my trips. Only do one thing. If I'm headed to nearby reef to spearfish I'm not going fishing which requires all my extra gear and bait. And if I'm fishing I'm staying at my usual spots near the bridges. And if I'm going to bbq and have a few drinks just do that and relax at the sand bar. I can't do it all in one day. 
I was proud of the skiff, that it pulled through and we continued on with our weekend. Be safe out there and watch the weight you put on that bad boy.


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## frankcr

Happy it turned out right, but please folks, these hulls are not meant for offshore work.


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## FlatsCatFL

flounder boy said:


> Gonna try and load pics of mods completed since purchase in March.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This the Bimini from bass pro
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This would be the ladder custom built for the boat
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are the rod holders. I had a hard time settling on the right rod holders due to the non flat surface of the gunnels. These mount individually and work great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added a second tank and can run all day on 12 gallons.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


love your mods, especially the rear boarding ladder. i def need one of those.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

also glad you made it safely from a scary situation. great advice about the weight awareness.


----------



## Carolinaguy

Has anyone else seen the changes made on the 2016 model? I't looks like the may have fixed the livewell issues. Not sure if I like loosing that space though. The front seat is now just storage.


----------



## atexan

Carolinaguy said:


> Has anyone else seen the changes made on the 2016 model? I't looks like the may have fixed the livewell issues. Not sure if I like loosing that space though. The front seat is now just storage.


Very interesting but now where do I put my second fuel tank?


----------



## Vinnycappello717

Hey new to the forum just want to post a picture of my mako I bought a year ago. Love the boat.


----------



## prod1944

Homestead fl man,

Glad to hear you came through your experience unscathed. I'm sure your quick reaction changed what could have been a terrible event on the water into a happy ending. Sounds like the boat did well considering how much water was in it and that channel can be very rough. Curious, do you think in your opinion would another high output bilge pump have been any help. I haven't taken my boat that far down yet. I go as far as long key I use the ramp at sea bird marina. Which ramp did you go out of?


----------



## frankcr

Bilge pumps are rated in gallons per hour, so a five gallon bucket does a much better job in a pinch. A pump large enough to move enough water quickly out of your boat would be very large.


----------



## Homestead Fl Man

Nice mods guys. I was trying to picture a T top on the skiff, thanks for showing me. My friend once had his chopped to make the top part removable for storage. It was easy to bolt back on you just needed two people. 
I asked about second bilge pump too but the conclusion is that you might be better off investing in better life jackets in an emergency situation lol.


----------



## frankcr

Homestead, wish I could get down there in your area, but my wife runs too much of a schedule to make the trip.

If I were using waters where it could get too rough for safety, I would fit a deflector on the back of the front deck to hopefully direct water coming aboard away from the cockpit. Just be careful and give the fish fits.

We once had a 17 ft deep vee with an open bow deck area, so I fitted a removable deck. Looked like the devil but worked well. Got a 20 ft self bailing hull with good deadrise at the bow as soon as money became available.


----------



## njgradywhite

Homestead Fl Man said:


> Nice mods guys. I was trying to picture a T top on the skiff, thanks for showing me. My friend once had his chopped to make the top part removable for storage. It was easy to bolt back on you just needed two people.
> I asked about second bilge pump too but the conclusion is that you might be better off investing in better life jackets in an emergency situation lol.


I took a nice wave over the bow this summer swamped the boat. I installed a auto float switch I leave on 24/7. As soon as water got in the boat the pump kicked on. I went to the front to grab my bucket and manual pump.

It will only be a couple seconds but if you don't hit that bilge switch you'll be in trouble. I would get a float switch to start the pumping process.

Just my two cents ha-ha


----------



## frankcr

Your tip is worth much more than 2 cents.

Take a 750 GPH pump and it will pump about 12 gallons per minute, so you want it to kick in as soon as possible.


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## Fisherman305

Homestead Fl Man said:


> Nice mods guys. I was trying to picture a T top on the skiff, thanks for showing me. My friend once had his chopped to make the top part removable for storage. It was easy to bolt back on you just needed two people.
> I asked about second bilge pump too but the conclusion is that you might be better off investing in better life jackets in an emergency situation lol.


Crazy story. Sounds like me trying to do it all in one outing on this skiff. I'm also trying not to push it to much. Quick question, any idea where to buy a poling platform down here in south Florida? I saw a skiff at bps with one, but the shop didn't know who/where installed it.


----------



## Fuzz

Found this thread a few months ago and have occasionally browsed through. Finally thought I should quite being a lurker and join the forum and contribute. Fist thing, thanks to all the regular posters for making this thread an invaluable resource.

So a little about me and .... Austin, TX based. Fish for bass and and hybrid striper over 90% of the time. But grew up fishing saltwater mangrove, estuaries so any chance I can get to go to the coast is welcome. Probably once a year or twice if I'm lucky.

Now the boat ...... love it. I'm well aware of the limitations but it's ideal for me. It's a 17/60 hp with from Austin Tracker, June 2012. Runs 33-35 mph top speed @ 6000-6200 rpm. Good wind will get you 36 mph maybe a bit more. Trim the motor up and you can fish in 1 fow. Boat fits in the garage and that's a plus.

Mods/add ons added over the years:

Humminbird 597hd/di
Minnkota Riptide 55
Vengence prop (came with it)
Twin spray on keel guards
Bunk slicks
Bunk Guide ons (great in the wind)
Sea sucker rod holders on each side of gunnell (2 pairs)
Butt seat up front and chair on the back deck 
Pair of tite lok rod holders on rear deck for trolling
Stern saver for transducer
Fold up ladder on transom 
Aluminium framed bimini
Kenwood stereo/2 Kicker speakers

No water in the hull issues, but some gel coat spider cracking on rear deck (I suspect it started with impact with a bulkhead a while ago ). I do have a leaking livewell from the bottom fitting. Poor design it seems. Probably my biggest beef is still not being able to dial in the FF/transducer over about 8/9 mph. I've mostly given up on that. Minor issues aside it's a great boat. Most recent trip was 2 weeks ago from the Copano Causeway public ramp to Rattlesnake Bt/Port Bay and back 3.2 gallons of gas on a maybe 25/26 mile trip.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*welcome*

Fuzz, welcome and thanks for the skiff rundown.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*polling platform*



Fisherman305 said:


> Crazy story. Sounds like me trying to do it all in one outing on this skiff. I'm also trying not to push it to much. Quick question, any idea where to buy a poling platform down here in south Florida? I saw a skiff at bps with one, but the shop didn't know who/where installed it.


Fisherman305, check out CUSTOMMARINEWELDING.COM


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## njgradywhite

Did you ever see a pro skiff with a full duck blind? Now you have.


----------



## njgradywhite

Folds to port side for transport.


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## joebucko

njgradywhite, that is an amazing transformation. It looks like a small floating island. Well done.


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## njgradywhite

joebucko said:


> njgradywhite, that is an amazing transformation. It looks like a small floating island. Well done.


Thank you joebucko! Lots of work getting it put together to fit right. I ordered a simple camo outboard cover too.

I'm glad I went through and made the boat into a multipurpose boat I can use for ducks. Have too many boats already so a duck boat would probably have killed my wife 

Now I just have to resist buying a 1978 13' Whaler to rehab. Found it cheap and always wanted one lol


----------



## frankcr

Big smile here. The first boat Daddy turned me loose with was a Feather Craft aluminum with a 1952 7 1/2 HP Evinrude. I found and put in running order a 1951 model which is nearly identical to the 1952

A few weeks ago while at a boat ramp, a gentleman came up in a later model Feather Craft in nearly like new condition as it had been stored in a barn for many years and the factory paint job was immaculate. After talking to him, he offered to sell me the boat and said it would mean more to me than it does to him!

I turned it down but second guessed myself as soon as he drove away  Should have scratched that itch.


----------



## njgradywhite

Our house is like a boat storage yard! Pulled the Mako out since ill be away for 3 weeks and some strong winds coming before duck season opens (late November)


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## Homestead Fl Man

Prod,
When I go down to big pine key I go for the free ramp by Spanish harbour I believe it's called. It's to the right, after Bahia Honda and right befor the next bridge. Or the one at the old wooden bridge motel which is by no name key and no name bar. Or if your only there for the daytime you can pay the Bahia Honda entrance and ramp fee.


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## Fuzz

That's a pretty impressive blind you got going there and definitely the only one I've seen on a skiff for sure


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## prod1944

*ramp*

Thanks Homestead Fl Man. I know of both of those ramps but haven't used them yet. Good to know about the park ramp too. Haven't been in the park in over 50 years. Going to go that way next time we have flat days on the weekend.


----------



## Sanren

Hoping somebody can help. Last time i was out on my PS 17, we were on the way back in and my buddy was clearing out the bait fish in the live well, using a little hand net. we were talking about the days catch, and he wasn't really paying attention, so when scooping fish with the net, he scooped the drain plug and over the side it went. I have been to the new Bass Pro in Brandon (just south of Tampa) and they don't have one, and the guy that was there is covering for the parts guy, who is apparently on vacation for a while, couldn't find it to order one. I have been trying to search the internet to find a replacement, but with no luck. Anybody have any idea where i can get a replacement live well drain plug from? I know i could go to BPS and "Look" at one of the new model Pro Skiffs and just happen to leave the bait well plug in my pocket, but my morals don't allow me to do that. I know i can't be the first one to lose the plug, there has to be a replacement available somewhere.


----------



## FishLoco

I feel like I know most of you guys just from reading this thread, I have made it through pages 1-201 and couldnâ€™t stand it anymore had to post. I will finish the remaining pages over the next week. Just want to say thank you for all of your informative posts, they have been extremely helpful!
I bought my 2015 Mako 17â€™ PS w 60hp in August, and overall I love it. I live in Houston so primarily fish Galveston Bay (east, west, ship channel, tried the jetties but didnâ€™t go well!), and Louisiana (Sabine & Calcasieu Lakes). I have been out about 10-15 times, and mostly for just quick morning trips, I really need full days on the water to start logging performance and such. I am running about 28-32mph WOT but will start paying more attention to this. 
My current mods are:
Lowrance elite 5 chirp
Micro anchor (only good in 3-4ft of water ïŒ)
Minn Kota SP w Ipilot 70# 24v (being installed now)
Vengeance stainless prop 3 blade 13p
On board charger (being installed now)

Mods I will do SOON:
Interior LED lighting under bow & aft deck
Seal the bow compartment to make it waterproof
Hydrafoil cav plate
â€œdoorâ€ for CC opening
Rodholders for CC grab rail
Thinking of adding seasucker horizontal rod holders just cant decide

Mods I am thinking of doing:
Adding the aft rails with rodholders
Eventually need an extra prop so deciding which one to get, want to try a 4 blade
Looking into all kinds of storage solutions, under bow, bow compartment, under CC, ect. Playing with ideas for now.
Now that I have seen it I have to have a duck blind cover like NJGradywhite!! That is sweet!

Issues I have had:
1.	Livewell pump, I took back to BPS and informed them of the issue and they have fixed it, but it still is finicky, works most of the time
2.	Water coming in livewell at WOT when pump is off, I have tightened the cap to reduce the flow to a trickle, but long runs it still overflows. Not sure what the pressure buildup would do if I closed all the way while WOT. I use the livewell every trip so this is a burden.
3.	Red/Green nav lights went out, BPS repaired but have not learned the cause yet.

The biggest issue I have had is not enough time to go fishing for full days!! I have also run into some bad weather the last few trips, the boat handles chop great but I have pushed the limits a few times. I have grown up fishing/boating so am experienced, but learning this boats capabilities has been eventful lol! 2ft chop in Galveston bay is not comfortable at all. I can tell some stories later. Just wanted to say hello and look forward to future postings, hopefully all you guys are still on here. Here are some pictures as well if I can figure out how to add them.


----------



## FishLoco

*First Post on Mako 17 PS*

I feel like I know most of you guys just from reading this thread, I have made it through pages 1-201 and couldnâ€™t stand it anymore had to post. I will finish the remaining pages over the next week. Just want to say thank you for all of your informative posts, they have been extremely helpful!
I bought my 2015 Mako 17â€™ PS w 60hp in August, and overall I love it. I live in Houston so primarily fish Galveston Bay (east, west, ship channel, tried the jetties but didnâ€™t go well!), and Louisiana (Sabine & Calcasieu Lakes). I have been out about 10-15 times, and mostly for just quick morning trips, I really need full days on the water to start logging performance and such. I am running about 28-32mph WOT but will start paying more attention to this. 
My current mods are:
Lowrance elite 5 chirp
Micro anchor (only good in 3-4ft of water ïŒ)
Minn Kota SP w Ipilot 70# 24v (being installed now)
Vengeance stainless prop 3 blade 13p
On board charger (being installed now)

Mods I will do SOON:
Interior LED lighting under bow & aft deck
Seal the bow compartment to make it waterproof
Hydrafoil cav plate
â€œdoorâ€ for CC opening
Rodholders for CC grab rail
Thinking of adding seasucker horizontal rod holders just cant decide

Mods I am thinking of doing:
Adding the aft rails with rodholders
Eventually need an extra prop so deciding which one to get, want to try a 4 blade
Looking into all kinds of storage solutions, under bow, bow compartment, under CC, ect. Playing with ideas for now.
Now that I have seen it I have to have a duck blind cover like NJGradywhite!! That is sweet!

Issues I have had:
1.	Livewell pump, I took back to BPS and informed them of the issue and they have fixed it, but it still is finicky, works most of the time
2.	Water coming in livewell at WOT when pump is off, I have tightened the cap to reduce the flow to a trickle, but long runs it still overflows. Not sure what the pressure buildup would do if I closed all the way while WOT. I use the livewell every trip so this is a burden.
3.	Red/Green nav lights went out, BPS repaired but have not learned the cause yet.

The biggest issue I have had is not enough time to go fishing for full days!! I have also run into some bad weather the last few trips, the boat handles chop great but I have pushed the limits a few times. I have grown up fishing/boating so am experienced, but learning this boats capabilities has been eventful lol! 2ft chop in Galveston bay is not comfortable at all. I can tell some stories later. Just wanted to say hello and look forward to future postings, hopefully all you guys are still on here. Here are some pictures as well if I can figure out how to add them.


----------



## FishLoco

Sanren,

If you have a west marine near you they have not only the drain plug that fits the livewell, but also they have a overflow drain pvc tube that you plug into your drain line and will overflow. This is good because you can overflow at a lower level than your boats overflow which is too high because water splashes out in choppy water. You can order from their website if you dont have one close by.

Sorry for the double post earlier


----------



## Fuzz

Sanren, I also found a plug that fit at Academy not sure if they have stores in your area but they are online as well. As for the overflow tube I took a drill bit to the OEM tube and made enough holes to have it drain about 1.5 in lower and that helped.

FishLoco, I initially got one pair of the sea suckers and liked them enough to add another pair eventually. I've never had them fall off


----------



## Fuzz

Sanren, I also found a plug that fit at Academy not sure if they have stores in your area but they are online as well. As for the overflow tube I took a drill bit to the OEM tube and made enough holes to have it drain about 1.5 in lower and that helped.

FishLoco, I initially got one pair of the sea suckers and liked them enough to add another pair eventually. I've never had them fall off. Nice pics with the family btw


----------



## FishLoco

Fuzz said:


> Sanren, I also found a plug that fit at Academy not sure if they have stores in your area but they are online as well. As for the overflow tube I took a drill bit to the OEM tube and made enough holes to have it drain about 1.5 in lower and that helped.
> 
> FishLoco, I initially got one pair of the sea suckers and liked them enough to add another pair eventually. I've never had them fall off


For the seasuckers do you not bump your knees when walking around the deck?  that is my main concern is objects sticking out as I usually fish 3 people and quite a bit of walking around the deck netting fish, putting in ice box, changing tackle or putting on live bait, ect..


----------



## Fuzz

The take up a little space of course but not anymore than any other horizontal rod holders you could put in the same spot. Can't say that I've noticeably bumped into them


----------



## Jonc

*Sea Suckers*



FishLoco said:


> For the seasuckers do you not bump your knees when walking around the deck? that is my main concern is objects sticking out as I usually fish 3 people and quite a bit of walking around the deck netting fish, putting in ice box, changing tackle or putting on live bait, ect..


I've had them on my 16 for 3 years now and they work great... I like the portability of them as often times I remove them if I'm just taking out a few spinning rods. They also work great for stick it anchor pins and push poles. The 16 is a bit skinnier though and I do need to be aware of my rods if I'm walking around that side of the helm. Sounds crazy but I always walk around the left side of the helm as I'm right handed and hold on to the grab bar. Mounting them on the starboard side keeps them out of the way as I can board this little boat off the port side as well from my boat lift.

Jonc


----------



## FishLoco

Thank you guys, now I just need to drop the $ and get a set of the seasuckers.

I did order one of the robocups and thanks for sharing that, thats a very quick and simple mod to attach to trolling motor!

Picked up the boat from BPS and trolling motor / on board charger is installed. Cant wait to try it out!! Just wanted to throw this out there in case if it is useful for anyone. I store my boat at my wife's work which is dusty. In addition to the cover I have on my boat, some of the guys at her work have wrapped my boat in a shipping container liner. These are inexpensive and can be used as a cover when traveling and such and wouldn't have to worry about it getting stolen.

Here are a couple pics.


----------



## DigiCowboy

FishLoco, 

My nav lights went out in the first few months too. It was the switch, it has a bad post that is not getting 12v. If yours is the same, maybe a bad run of switches, there is a quick fix if you need lights. I swapped the wires from the top row of the switch with the wires from the bottom row. The anchor light position only needs one 'hot' so the lights all work properly, just reverse from the switch markings.


----------



## prod1944

*19 ft skiff*

I dont know if its true but I am seeing post on facebook of a new 19 ft mako skiff.


----------



## LitUp

I use a my extra plug for a drain plug it works great


----------



## KeithD.

There is a 19 skiff coming out. One of the guys at my job has been in contact with BPS and it should be out by Feb. 2016


----------



## yeocokent

Time for some rockfish picks..

































We have been fishing the heck out of this boat on the lower Potomac/Chesapeake bay. It is laid out real nice for fishing and moving from school to school. One tank plus a 2.5 gallon spare gets us about everywhere we need to go.


----------



## joebucko

Handsome fish Yeocokent. 
Here in North Texas the lakes are up again with most ramps closed till probably January. Those that can get on the lakes are catching the heck out of Stripers and Hybrids though.


----------



## yeocokent

Carolinaguy said:


> They recommended the same quicksilver tank that came factory with the boat. It is $170 from bps. You have to get it from there parts department. there not on the floor. The service guy told me the QS tank that comes with it, comes with all the lines hookups and fuel regulater allready attached to it. To where the $50 has none of that and im guessing that fuel regulater is important.
> 
> I was hoping to use the cheaper one as it's mainly just gonna be a security blanket lol. If anyone can chime in on this that would be wonderful. I'd love to know if i could in fact use the $50 tank somehow


You can get the same 6.6 gallon tank from amazon for about 113 dollars.


----------



## yeocokent

joebucko said:


> Handsome fish Yeocokent.
> Here in North Texas the lakes are up again with most ramps closed till probably January. Those that can get on the lakes are catching the heck out of Stripers and Hybrids though.


We have had a milder weather so far so the fish are still holding up in the bay. Water temp is around 51-52 degrees. A few more degrees colder and the fish head South. Hope to get a few more trips out before they leave.


----------



## Crow's Nest

Okay, I see there is a lot of information on this thread regarding this boat. I do no intend to read every post so I would like to understand if anyone has any realistic numbers on how well this boat does shallow water?

I would like to know what the boat drafts at standstill?

I would like to know the shallowest anyone has actually run this boat, and the set up to run it that shallow? Jackplate, cupped prop,....etc?

What is the shalowest anyone has gottrn on plane? Again, setup?

I ask this as I have a friend wanting to buy a boat. He is wanting to buy a used boat for both Fresh and Salt Water fishing. I am trying to push him away from used boats and to consider a new boat that is reasonbly priced.

This boat appears to fill a lot of areas that I would recommend. Just need to understand the skinny water capabilities?

Thanks in advance for any input.


----------



## joebucko

Crow's Nest said:


> Okay, I see there is a lot of information on this thread regarding this boat. I do no intend to read every post so I would like to understand if anyone has any realistic numbers on how well this boat does shallow water?
> 
> I would like to know what the boat drafts at standstill?
> 
> I would like to know the shallowest anyone has actually run this boat, and the set up to run it that shallow? Jackplate, cupped prop,....etc?
> 
> What is the shalowest anyone has gottrn on plane? Again, setup?
> 
> I ask this as I have a friend wanting to buy a boat. He is wanting to buy a used boat for both Fresh and Salt Water fishing. I am trying to push him away from used boats and to consider a new boat that is reasonbly priced.
> 
> This boat appears to fill a lot of areas that I would recommend. Just need to understand the skinny water capabilities?
> 
> Thanks in advance for any input.


I can't answer all of your questions but here are my thoughts having owned the boat for 3 years. I have the Pro17 center console, Mercury 60 4stroke and an Atlas Micro Jacker jackplate.

First this boat was not designed to be a super shallow boat like the tunnel hulls.

Draft at standstill: 9" with the engine tilted out of the water.

I have never purposely run it super shallow because I use it exclusively in lakes and there are stumps etc. When on plane the hull is probably drawing 4" of water at the stern.

I have an Atlas Micro Jacker jack plate which gives me 4.5" of lift. When on plane I can raise the engine at least 3" without blowing out.

I have never needed to get on plane from super skinny water but I suspect the boat would not need much water. I say that because this boat doesn't have much bow rise when accelerating. That is something I noticed early on. My friend's Nitro almost stands on its stern when going on plane. The Mako Pro17 with the Mercury 60hp comes out of the water almost flat.

Just guessing but with a jackplate I think you could run in 18" of water if not a little less. Getting on plane in 18" of water would be a challenge but probably doable on occasion. Idling with the jackplate raised could probably be a little shallower.

Good luck.


----------



## Spenser

I sell Makos. The stated draft is 8", but that is likely an unladen boat. 9 inches does not surprise me for a loaded boat at rest. We have a customer who installed a full jack plate and he swears he is running in 5-8 inches of water. Without a jack plate, it should pick up in 18 inches. It has about 4 inches of bow rise from a standing start, so yes, it comes out "flat." 

We are suppose to have a 19 skiff at the Houston Boat Show and are being told that we can take orders then. I've seen one and it's awesome. Obviously more room, much more storage and you can put up to a 115 on it!


----------



## joebucko

Spenser,
Have you gotten any specs or performance data on the new 19' boat?
If so care to share?



Spenser said:


> I sell Makos. The stated draft is 8", but that is likely an unladen boat. 9 inches does not surprise me for a loaded boat at rest. We have a customer who installed a full jack plate and he swears he is running in 5-8 inches of water. Without a jack plate, it should pick up in 18 inches. It has about 4 inches of bow rise from a standing start, so yes, it comes out "flat."
> 
> We are suppose to have a 19 skiff at the Houston Boat Show and are being told that we can take orders then. I've seen one and it's awesome. Obviously more room, much more storage and you can put up to a 115 on it!


----------



## Crow's Nest

joebucko said:


> I can't answer all of your questions but here are my thoughts having owned the boat for 3 years. I have the Pro17 center console, Mercury 60 4stroke and an Atlas Micro Jacker jackplate.
> 
> First this boat was not designed to be a super shallow boat like the tunnel hulls.
> 
> Draft at standstill: 9" with the engine tilted out of the water.
> 
> I have never purposely run it super shallow because I use it exclusively in lakes and there are stumps etc. When on plane the hull is probably drawing 4" of water at the stern.
> 
> I have an Atlas Micro Jacker jack plate which gives me 4.5" of lift. When on plane I can raise the engine at least 3" without blowing out.
> 
> I have never needed to get on plane from super skinny water but I suspect the boat would not need much water. I say that because this boat doesn't have much bow rise when accelerating. That is something I noticed early on. My friend's Nitro almost stands on its stern when going on plane. The Mako Pro17 with the Mercury 60hp comes out of the water almost flat.
> 
> Just guessing but with a jackplate I think you could run in 18" of water if not a little less. Getting on plane in 18" of water would be a challenge but probably doable on occasion. Idling with the jackplate raised could probably be a little shallower.
> 
> Good luck.


Thanks everyone for the input.


----------



## atexan

Crow's Nest said:


> Okay, I see there is a lot of information on this thread regarding this boat. I do no intend to read every post so I would like to understand if anyone has any realistic numbers on how well this boat does shallow water?
> 
> I would like to know what the boat drafts at standstill?
> 
> I would like to know the shallowest anyone has actually run this boat, and the set up to run it that shallow? Jackplate, cupped prop,....etc?
> 
> What is the shalowest anyone has gottrn on plane? Again, setup?
> 
> I ask this as I have a friend wanting to buy a boat. He is wanting to buy a used boat for both Fresh and Salt Water fishing. I am trying to push him away from used boats and to consider a new boat that is reasonbly priced.
> 
> This boat appears to fill a lot of areas that I would recommend. Just need to understand the skinny water capabilities?
> 
> Thanks in advance for any input.


I have a '14 17CC that I run in the west bay and can tell you it does not run as skinny and the J&H and shallow sports that fish around me. But I didn't pay $50k for my boat either. I don't have numbers but i can tell you that it will go into the marshes and will fish skinny if you have the patience. I'm not one that needs to get to the back of Jones lake in a hurry if you get my drift.

When it comes to skinny water, I believe you get what you pay for.


----------



## atexan

yeocokent said:


> You can get the same 6.6 gallon tank from amazon for about 113 dollars.


2x (just bought one off amazon via Leaders RPM for $118)


----------



## crghill

i'm in SW Florida (Punta Gorda) and have a 17' w/ 60 hp 4 stroke. I'm looking to add a poling platform to mine. I saw in the thread that others have. I'm curious to know if anyone has a recommendation for where to get one. Also, how does this boat pole? I plan on adding a trolling motor at some point but will use the Push Pole for the near future.


----------



## rgourley11

*Controller*

Anyone know the model #on the throttle control on the Mako 17 pro skiff. I think it is a Teleflex/Seastar but do not know model. The plastic piece that holds one of the 2 cables broke off and trying to replace it,


----------



## Jonc

*Platform*



crghill said:


> i'm in SW Florida (Punta Gorda) and have a 17' w/ 60 hp 4 stroke. I'm looking to add a poling platform to mine. I saw in the thread that others have. I'm curious to know if anyone has a recommendation for where to get one. Also, how does this boat pole? I plan on adding a trolling motor at some point but will use the Push Pole for the near future.


I bought a Fishmaster platform and it's a quality made item manufactured in Florida. ( I have a place in englewood neighbor ) as for polling, the square nose and hull design isn't as nimble as a pointed bow for polling but it's doable.


----------



## Strat

*picking up the mako 17 with 60 tomorrow*

Hello all. Have purchased and will be picking up my used 2013 (I'll be second owner) 17 foot Mako skiff 60 horse tomorrow. Really looking forward to getting it on the water. May try a test run on Lake Conroe here near Houston for the maiden voyage if the weather is ok. Hoping for the best! I've made it to Page 200 on the thread and I feel like I've learned a lot. I'll let you all know how it goes. Thanks for the great info from all the guys around the country. Pretty awesome.


----------



## Strat

*6 inch circular deck plate*

Well, it looks like I'll be in the market for a replacement 6 inch diameter aft deck plate. I looked at one at a local sporting goods store but it wasn't quite compatible without drilling new holes and I'm not quite ready for that. Does anyone know where I might get a stock replacement? I looked on BPS website but didn't see.


----------



## crghill

I too would like to know if you get info on where to find the 6 inch deck plate.


----------



## prod1944

*Rear deck plate*

Hey guys, I got a replacement plate from bass pro shops. I found one on the shelf almost a perfect replacement and better then the one that came with the boat. My original one came with a twist lock that broke. The replacement came threaded with a rubber seal. Could have gotten it under warranty but would have to tow the boat there for them to inspect and then order the new plate. The one I bought was 16/ 17 dollars off the shelf.


----------



## Strat

*Rear deck plate*

Thank you Prod


----------



## njgradywhite

Couple pics of the Mako ProSkiff Duck Boat Project from hunting the other day. Enjoy.


----------



## joebucko

The duck boat looks great. How many ducks did you bag?


----------



## njgradywhite

joebucko said:


> The duck boat looks great. How many ducks did you bag?


The first day 4 Buffleheads and the second none. Did plenty of missing though! 

Both days were beautiful except for a 25 kt west wind with 30kt gusts. Had a good time running the boat for the first time though so definitely learning how to balance the weight!


----------



## njgradywhite

Still windy down there!


----------



## njgradywhite

Hunted three guys out of it both days. I am just about at the weight limit for the boat I'd say.

Good thing is, one guy is 5'5 115 lbs. He is more like a squirrel lol so he had plenty of room hunting the casting deck in the front


----------



## Strat

*Duck boat*

Now that's what I call dedication njgrady. Good job on the blind. Looks like you all had quite a bit of fun despite the wind!


----------



## Strat

*Filling portable fuel tanks*

I've always been told to remove plastic fuel tanks from vehile when filling them at a gas station to avoid the risk of static electricity igniting the fuel. This crossed my mind as I filled up my 6 gallon tank last weekend in my new boat. I've since made it a point to read a few things here and there (warnings on gas pumps/manufacturer recommendations etc.) and the official line seems to be "remove them from the boat" when filling. Now, as this seems to be a bit difficult (my tank is 45 to 50lbs when nearly full), I thought I'd ask what a few of you guys thought. Besides removing the tank to fill, the other option I've read about is "bonding and grounding". I'll bet there are many of us that have fueled without years with an inkling of a problem but I'd still would like to hear your opinions and experience.


----------



## jorgepease

plastic tanks don't conduct, you don't need to ground them, it does you zero good.


----------



## joebucko

Strat,
I feel your pain when it comes to lifting that tank out of the boat for fueling. I also do not like dragging my boat through a gas station. So I don't do either. My solution is pretty basic but it works GREAT for me.

I have several 5 gal and 2 gal gas cans that I keep full at my house. I use these to top off my boat tank (or lawn mower) whenever I return from a trip. I calibrated an oak dowel and I stick my boat tank to determine how much fuel to add, I then use one of my containers to refill the boat tank while its in the boat. 

Next time I go to the gas station I take one or several the portables and refill them along with one of our vehicles. 

I did modify my portables to eliminate those horrible 'Safety Valve" fueling contraptions and added longer, more flexible spouts and vents. As a result I never spill a drop of gas into my boat and on regular occasion I find myself fueling my wife's car when she says "Oh by the way, that little gas light is on on my dash again."


----------



## FlyItAll

Strat- i fall into the group who ignores those warnings. I changed out my 6 gallon tank for a low profile 12 gallon. I just pull the tank forward a few inches to get the tank opening to clear the back deck and fill it in the boat. I figure that my touching the tank will discharge any static. Taking a 12 gallon tank in and out of the boat is just a bit too much.


----------



## surf_ox

njgradywhite said:


> Couple pics of the Mako ProSkiff Duck Boat Project from hunting the other day. Enjoy.


Beaver tail blind??

--------------

Merry CHRISTmas everyone!!!! Remember HE is the reason for the season.


----------



## njgradywhite

surf_ox said:


> Beaver tail blind??
> 
> --------------
> 
> Merry CHRISTmas everyone!!!! Remember HE is the reason for the season.


Yes sir!


----------



## surf_ox

njgradywhite said:


> Yes sir!


Had one on a 1754 beaver tail with 24 long tail.

Love how they get out of your way

--------------

Merry CHRISTmas everyone!!!! Remember HE is the reason for the season.


----------



## njgradywhite

surf_ox said:


> Had one on a 1754 beaver tail with 24 long tail.
> 
> Love how they get out of your way
> 
> --------------
> 
> Merry CHRISTmas everyone!!!! Remember HE is the reason for the season.


Love that too. Very well built. Not even remotely made for this boat but we are making it work in the nonfishing months!


----------



## Strat

Thanks Jorge, Joe, and Fly for input on fueling the tank


----------



## Strat

*Have any of you guys launched in Lake Charles?*

I may try to head over there on Friday and wondering what to expect


----------



## Vinnycappello717

I am selling my 2015 mako pro skiff 17. Anyone who knows someone who might be interested please pass this along I live in pa but will drive it pretty far for someone who is very interested. http://jerseyshore.craigslist.org/boa/5373945073.html


----------



## racingdc9

Well, took the boat out Friday and fished for about 5 hours. Didn't go far from the launch and no rain, when we got back and pulled the boat up. I unscrewed the bottom drain plug and a ton of water came out. Ran for a good 1-2 minutes. I've never had that much water in there before. On our last trip we had some water in the hull but not like this time around. I'm thinking of resealling the bottom drain plug where it screws into the transom. Probably take the boat out next week and if there's significant amount of water in the hull again I will take it in. Which marine goo do you guys use again?


----------



## yellowskeeter

Why not put all plugs in, disconnect battery and put a water hose in the boat while in the trailer and see where it is coming out from?

www.g-spotservices.com


----------



## racingdc9

That makes sense. Haha. I'll try it. Should I fill it till I see about an inch of water on the floor?


----------



## yellowskeeter

I would. Good time to drop a gallon of simple green in the bilge if it's nasty as well. Drive around for 15 minutes and let is slosh around, then drain.

www.g-spotservices.com


----------



## racingdc9

Water started leaking from the rust spot and the rubber plug. Going to bps to buy some sealant. 5200 right?


----------



## Strat

Racing, did you happen to talk to Mako about the situation? I was wondering if maybe it was still under warranty.....

Strat


----------



## Kevin Nicholls

Well I joined the club. I bought a 2012 Proskiff 17. ( from Texas skiffaroo ). I read the entire thread and wanted to thank every one for all the info. I've been trying to find a used one for awhile now and finally found the right one. Hopefully I'll have something to contribute soon. So far I'm very happy with it. I'm looking at putting a Stingray Hydrofoil on it soon, it does porpoise at WOT a little. Hopefully that will help with that. Thanks again, Kevin


----------



## FlyItAll

Welcome Kevin! Kuddos for reading the entire thread. Great bunch of guys here who are willing to share their knowledge....can't beat that!


----------



## Strat

Congrats Kevin. We will look forward to hearing about it. I've had mine for just over a month now and have had it in the water 4 times. I am very pleased and have spent quite a bit of time working through getting together the right equipment (paddles, anchor, etc.) to go with the boat. The first day I bought mine, I drove away from the dealership (bought used) and the rear deck plate blew off on the freeway. I finally found a replacement deck plate that was the right color last week at Great Lakes Skipper. I plan to install it this week. In the meantime, I used a soccer ball to plug the hole! Also, learned the hard way to turn off the vehicle lights when hooking up the trailer (saw a bright spark and blew a fuse under the hood). I too read thru this thread before buying and found it to be a wonderful resource. Look forward to your update.

Strat


----------



## FishLoco

*Mako 19' Pro Skiff*

Well, I haven't seen any pictures of the Mako 19' Proskiff on here so I figured I would share 

I tell you, it is just my luck to buy the 17' ONE YEAR before they come out with one much better lol! I love my 17' dont get me wrong, but this is a big step up on the 19' and not a big cost increase.

I am not sure exactly what all this boat will come with stock, but this one at the Houston Boat Show was really nice. Jack plate, trolling motor, i especially like the 2 live wells in the back and closed in decks to conceal equipment, bigger engine obviously the biggest deal, as well as actual gas tank.

I was heartbroken when I saw it and considered trading mine in, when discussing this with the rep there, he mentioned something that blew my mind even more!!! His words "I wouldnt trade in your 17' this year for the 19', I would wait until the 21' comes out next year"!!!!!!! So big things coming to the Mako Skiffs in the near future.

Enjoy the pictures!


----------



## FishLoco

*Mako 19' Continued*

some more pics


----------



## joebucko

*Mako 19 Proskiff*

Thanks for the pictures FishLoco.

I reviewed the specs and pictures on the Mako Boat site and got excited. I have no plans on trading up from my Pro17 since it fits my fishing needs but a 19' boat of the same design will fit a lot of anglers/bay fishermen very well.

Can't wait to hear some new Pro19 owner's reviews.


----------



## Hal P

I haven't had the chance to go thru all the post here, but I just purchased a used 2013
17 Pro skiff and have a few questions. Hope you guys can help me.

1) There are still 2 years on the boat's extended warranty ($40 transfer fee) which does not include the motor. Have you had any problems which would make it beneficial to transfer it?

2) The original owner claims he never did anything to the wiring, but I have a "power" switch which seems to turn on a bilge pump and a bilge pump switch which seems to do nothing. Am I missing something?


----------



## Strat

Al, i'll take a crack at this just to get the topic going. Please understand however that I am relatively new to the boat don't know everything. I'm still learning. Despite what I'm about to say I am very happy with the boat.....

...there is a lot of talk on this thread about water in the lower hull. You may have seen the post and videos.. There are videos of people draining a great deal of water from their hull drains. In some cases, this seems to have just been the result of a drain plug not tightened. In other cases, it seems water on the decks drained into the boot from which the cables go to the motor to the console and entered the lower hull in that manner. It seems the bilge pump is not sufficiently low down to prevent this from happening. If this is true (someone can weigh in please), I'm hoping there but be a way to seal that boot or raise the elevation so that water cannot enter. Also there's been lots of issues with the live wells. I have heard nothing about the warranty covering any of this although I maybe mistaken. Hopefully you'll get some other replies. Like a said, I'm new to the boat, Love it so far and learning all I can. Best of luck to you!


----------



## KiteboarderDoug

*Replacement Power Switch*

So can any of you guys tell me where you got a replacement power switch. I am assuming it is bad since I measure 12V on the middle red lead but it doesn't light up and nothing powers. On continuity testing on the switch itself, I get it on the one middle lead but not the bottom one in both switch positions. I can get the part from my Mako dealer but they want to see the switch first, have me pay for it and then wait a week. My local Marine dealership did not have the part either.


----------



## Hal P

Strat said:


> Al, i'll take a crack at this just to get the topic going. Please understand however that I am relatively new to the boat don't know everything. I'm still learning. Despite what I'm about to say I am very happy with the boat.....
> 
> ...there is a lot of talk on this thread about water in the lower hull. You may have seen the post and videos.. There are videos of people draining a great deal of water from their hull drains. In some cases, this seems to have just been the result of a drain plug not tightened. In other cases, it seems water on the decks drained into the boot from which the cables go to the motor to the console and entered the lower hull in that manner. It seems the bilge pump is not sufficiently low down to prevent this from happening. If this is true (someone can weigh in please), I'm hoping there but be a way to seal that boot or raise the elevation so that water cannot enter. Also there's been lots of issues with the live wells. I have heard nothing about the warranty covering any of this although I maybe mistaken. Hopefully you'll get some other replies. Like a said, I'm new to the boat, Love it so far and learning all I can. Best of luck to you!


Thanks Strat. I'm hoping that since the boat is 3 years old and according to the previous owner he had no problems, that all water in the hull is behind me. I had the boat the other day for about 2 hours and didn't get a thimble full of water out the drains. So far I love it! Still wondering about the "power" switch...what it does


----------



## joebucko

Hal P said:


> Thanks Strat. I'm hoping that since the boat is 3 years old and according to the previous owner he had no problems, that all water in the hull is behind me. I had the boat the other day for about 2 hours and didn't get a thimble full of water out the drains. So far I love it! Still wondering about the "power" switch...what it does


Hal,
My boat is a 2012 and when the Power Switch is off nothing works except the ignition switch. Power On allows the lights, bilge, aerator and bilge to operate. If your bilge pump runs continuously when you turn on the Power then I would guess you either have a bad Bilge pump switch or the bilge pump has been wired around that switch directly into the power lead coming from the Power Switch.


----------



## Hal P

*"Power" switch*

joebucko:

I got the boat back today and looked further into the power switch. You are right that nothing else works without the power switch being on, but when I turn it on the livewell pump comes on without the "aerator" switch on. I thought this is supposed to be a 2 step switch, first pump, then automatic pump/aerator. Am I missing something?


----------



## joebucko

Hal P said:


> joebucko:
> 
> I got the boat back today and looked further into the power switch. You are right that nothing else works without the power switch being on, but when I turn it on the livewell pump comes on without the "aerator" switch on. I thought this is supposed to be a 2 step switch, first pump, then automatic pump/aerator. Am I missing something?


It is a two stage (3 position) switch just as you describe. On/Off/Timed. As I said the switch is either faulty or the aerator pump is wired directly to the power lead from the Power Switch.


----------



## njgradywhite

Just got back from the Atlantic City Boat Show. Went to chat with my dealer where I bought my ProSkiff 17 last year and he had the new 2017 ProSkiff 19 on the floor. 

Wow. The beam being 1+ foot wider and the extra room is awesome. Great setup with the live well in the stern along with a fixed gas tank, jack plate and hydrosteering (option) and larger console.

I asked my deal (who is by far the best I have ever dealt with) to write me up a trade in offer.

Who knows, maybe this spring I'll be in a new 19 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


----------



## bavant

Hey gang,

Purchased my new Pro 17 last week. Getting some electronics and trolling motor installed. Reports to follow after initial sea trials. Mostly a stock boat, with a few surprises to share later. Couple of questions:

Anybody towing this with a Jeep Wrangler JK, two door? How does it tow?

What is your trolling motor power? 24v or 12v? 55# or 80# thrust? Any comments on the difference?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## KiteboarderDoug

My jeep pulled it fine but my mechanic said that it was not designed to tow for long stretches. (We towing for 6 hours to the keys). 12V 55# is plenty. Get the ipilot. Do not consider not getting it.


----------



## joebucko

bavant said:


> Hey gang,
> 
> Purchased my new Pro 17 last week. Getting some electronics and trolling motor installed. Reports to follow after initial sea trials. Mostly a stock boat, with a few surprises to share later. Couple of questions:
> 
> Anybody towing this with a Jeep Wrangler JK, two door? How does it tow?
> 
> What is your trolling motor power? 24v or 12v? 55# or 80# thrust? Any comments on the difference?
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Kiteboarder is RIGHT on the iPilot 55# trolling motor. It will be the best accessory you ever add to your boat. If my iPilot ever craps out I'll upgrade to their Ulterra because I'm old.


----------



## bavant

Ok, thanks for the replies. That about does it for me. I'll only be towing my rig about 10 miles round trip to most of the local boat ramps. I'm on the Northwest Florida Gulf Coast 
fishing the inter coastal and bays. My plan was the iPilot after fishing with two boating owners who both have that setup. Both really like it and adds incredible versatility over the foot pedal/tiller style from 'days past'. I opted for a less expensive boat so that I can invest more in the trolling motor and a 3d scanning fish finder. 

Thanks again to all the forum posters here on the thread for taking the time to share valuable information for those of us shopping for our boats, gear, etc.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Strat

I would appreciate some advice from those with more experience than me on a few points. I am a new owner of a used 2013 Pro 17. I don't expect that anyone would have time to answer all of my questions, but I would certainly appreciate your input on any of the items:

1) for those that have added a larger fuel tank, did you have new tie down attachments installed to accommodate the tank to keep it from sliding, 2) pros and cons of adding a cleat to the bow in the center, 3) anchor storage boxes or approaches while on the water? I've got a pretty good size Danforth anchor which seems like might cause some damage if I'm not careful 4) any trouble with the sealed bearings on the all aluminum trailer going bad prematurely and bearing replacement schedule? 5) best way to stop small tears in apholstry from getting bigger. 6) spark plug and wire replacement schedule

Sorry for being long winded. Replies appreciated. Hope I can return the favor some day.

By the way - I've had the boat out 5 times now to 5 separate docks since buying it over Christmas (Lake Conroe, Galveston Bay, San Luis Pass, Intracoastal to East Matagorda Bay). Each time has definitely been a learning experience. Boat runs great. Live well leaks (it seems through seals around plastic fittings onto the deck below the console while at a standstill), depth finder seems to work very well. The boat does a really good job of putting us into wade fishing locations, which I really appreciate.


Start


----------



## FlyItAll

Strat- I've had my 17' for a couple years now and played around with it quite a bit. I'll give you some feedback on your questions.
I swapped out the 6 gallon tank for a low profile 12 that just slides under the back deck on the port side. I put 2 ss brackets(same type that were holding the 6 gallon tank) along the front edge of the tank and 2 along the back side with 2 1" straps around the tank. I just drilled thru the deck and sealed the screws with 5200. I just loosen the straps and slide the tank forward about 6" to refuel. This is way more gas than I need.
I did add the front cleat after JoeB wrote it up and I use it every trip. I use it to tie the boat to the trailer when launching alone, fasten anchor line in mild conditions, and use it when positioning the boat/trailer in the garage.
As for anchor storage, I use a small Danforth and store it in the live well with the lines and fenders. I had a similar issue as you with the fitting on the live well drain leaking and once I fixed that I ran into the issue with the pump not picking up(this is discussed extensively on this thread and a fix has been identified). I would not use a live well anyway so I just abandoned it and use it for storage. 
No issues with the trailer bearings, no upolstery tears, since I store the boat in the garage- I'll bet the spark plug wires will outlast me!


----------



## Strat

Thank you Fly. I do appreciate the reply.


----------



## mmacro

*Shaft length for trolling motor*

What shaft length is everyone finding optimal for a trolling motor? I am getting a nice check from work for some travel pay I earned... and its tax refund season.

I thought it was time to add an iPilot to the boat so when I fish (mostly by myself) I can "anchor" or autopilot some of the structure I fish.

Also, I fish in the Chesapeake Bay near Annapolis, MD, depending on the tide there can be some pretty good current as well as slack water. Am I better off with a 24V motor or is the boat small enough that the 12V is good enough? I have read a few places that the 24V will put less drain on the batteries because it runs at a lower RPM and that gives you longer battery life.


----------



## joebucko

mmacro said:


> What shaft length is everyone finding optimal for a trolling motor? I am getting a nice check from work for some travel pay I earned... and its tax refund season.
> 
> I thought it was time to add an iPilot to the boat so when I fish (mostly by myself) I can "anchor" or autopilot some of the structure I fish.
> 
> Also, I fish in the Chesapeake Bay near Annapolis, MD, depending on the tide there can be some pretty good current as well as slack water. Am I better off with a 24V motor or is the boat small enough that the 12V is good enough? I have read a few places that the 24V will put less drain on the batteries because it runs at a lower RPM and that gives you longer battery life.


I have a Minn Kota Terrova iPilot 55# with the 45" shaft coupled to a GP27 conventional deep cycle battery. I have never used more than 25% of the charge on the battery. With the motor set on 10(fastest speed) it will pull my Pro17 along at 2.5mph. BUT I fish large North Texas lakes where all I have to contend with is wind. I don't know if the 55# thrust motor is enough to contend with strong tide+wind all day in your case. I suspect the 80# with two batteries would handle it with no problem. 
Curious to hear from other Pro17 owners who fish in the same conditions you do.


----------



## mmacro

Does anyone know the part number/skew for the contour cut Starboard That someone posted a photo of a while back that raises a trolling motor level with the lip on the deck?
I found the photo but the photo is low resolution and you can't read the barcode sticker.


----------



## Hal P

*Rod Holder*

Does anyone know of a clamp-on rod holder for my Mako skiff? I really don't want to put any more holes in my boat.


----------



## joebucko

Hal P said:


> Does anyone know of a clamp-on rod holder for my Mako skiff? I really don't want to put any more holes in my boat.


Hal,
the only clamp on rod holders I have seen and use are the stainless steel ones that clamp to the 3/4" hand rail running around the center console.
I lucked into some Taco Marines a couple of years ago but don't see them on the Taco website any more. Lots of places sell them. Here is a link to West Marine where they have several.
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--super-adjustable-heavy-duty-rod-holders--P019_570_001_552


----------



## Hal P

*Rod Holder*

joebucko: Sorry, I should have clarified myself that I am looking for rod holders to hold my poles while fishing, hoping to clamp to the gunwales.


----------



## Tarpontapper

*Trolling motor*



mmacro said:


> What shaft length is everyone finding optimal for a trolling motor? I am getting a nice check from work for some travel pay I earned... and its tax refund season.
> 
> I thought it was time to add an iPilot to the boat so when I fish (mostly by myself) I can "anchor" or autopilot some of the structure I fish.
> 
> Also, I fish in the Chesapeake Bay near Annapolis, MD, depending on the tide there can be some pretty good current as well as slack water. Am I better off with a 24V motor or is the boat small enough that the 12V is good enough? I have read a few places that the 24V will put less drain on the batteries because it runs at a lower RPM and that gives you longer battery life.


This is my .02 on the trolling motor choice for my mako 17 that I just purchased. I have been following this thread for a short while now and weighed the pros and cons of I pilot vs. tiller models. I purchased the 80 pound thrust tiller model in a 52 inch shaft length for the following reasons. I fish hard, long days in salt water with tides and wind to contend with. I have found over the years that having too much thrust is NEVER a bad thing when fishing...you simply twist the handle until you have what you need....the extra is saved battery time! Simplicity is usually the best answer for me anyway. Less moving parts means less to go wrong over time. I have heard horror stories about the head gears in the I pilots having issues. It sounds, however, like most folks here are having excellent luck, so it may be a mute point. I fish quietly for reds on the flats in skinny water and fear that a motor trying to hold a position in the wind and tide would have to make more noise than a spike stick. The cheaper price of the tiller model easily offset the cost of an additional battery and the extra weight doesn't seem to bother this little boat at all. This little boat will haul *** with the 80 pound thrust up there and it will do it all day with no problem. I'm happy with my decision but your preferences may be different. If you go with the tiller model let me know and I can show you a super easy and cosmetic mounting system I came up with!


----------



## Tarpontapper

I forgot to mention that the 52 inch tiller length is PERFECT on this boat. Being an older guy I don't like to bend over to drive by trolling motor. With the head at a deep enough setting to avoid cavitation even at full throttle, the head is right about waist height when fishing the flats and I find that to be perfect for me being 6' tall. I can set it plenty deep for rough water as well and by extending the handle I can still remain basically upright when trolling along. Any longer would be a waste and any shorter wouldn't be enough unless you went with the I pilot where you don't need to drive manually. Enjoy!


----------



## FlatsCatFL

mmacro said:


> Does anyone know the part number/skew for the contour cut Starboard That someone posted a photo of a while back that raises a trolling motor level with the lip on the deck?
> I found the photo but the photo is low resolution and you can't read the barcode sticker.


I've researched this subject a bit and have found that there is no Mako/Tracker pre-made starboard spacer. It seems each local BP/TM shop that gets tired of making there own, contract out to a local marine shop to make them.


----------



## crghill

*Looking for detailed help*

My wife gave me a ipilot 55# trolling motor for Christmas. Yes, she's a keeper. Anyway, I've not installed it yet because I'm the kind of person that hates to drill holes especially when I'm not confident of where exactly they should be drilled. In addition to the trolling motor, I also have the quick release bracket so really I'm drilling holes to install that.

Does anyone have a detailed write up, pictures or explanation for how I should install the motor? I've seen them all installed port side on the bow and this is where I'd like to put mine. I can wire it up okay by myself but just want to make sure I drill no more holes than necessary.

Thanks in advance for the help and if anyone is in Punta Gorda, Florida area look me up.

Oh, it's a 2013 17' Pro Skiff.

Thanks!


----------



## joebucko

crghill said:


> My wife gave me a ipilot 55# trolling motor for Christmas. Yes, she's a keeper. Anyway, I've not installed it yet because I'm the kind of person that hates to drill holes especially when I'm not confident of where exactly they should be drilled. In addition to the trolling motor, I also have the quick release bracket so really I'm drilling holes to install that.
> 
> Does anyone have a detailed write up, pictures or explanation for how I should install the motor? I've seen them all installed port side on the bow and this is where I'd like to put mine. I can wire it up okay by myself but just want to make sure I drill no more holes than necessary.
> 
> Thanks in advance for the help and if anyone is in Punta Gorda, Florida area look me up.
> 
> Oh, it's a 2013 17' Pro Skiff.
> 
> Thanks!


Nice gift from your wife.
I don't have detailed pictures of the actual holes but here are a couple of pics of my install and some suggestions.

1. You will need a small piece of 3/4" Starboard to raise the motor/quick connect bracket level with the front lip on the boat. My Quick Release bracket is the metal sliding model (not the Puck style) so I also added a piece of 1/4" aluminum plate to support the whole assembly which you can see in the pics.

2. Your motor is going to be angled slightly and hang over the front edge of the boat in order to deploy. Make sure when you angle it that the head unit does not overhang off the port siderail or you could damage it when docking.

3. I drilled 7 holes in total. 
2 holes went through the very front of the bracket then down through the front lip of the boat. These were easy because you can get the nuts and washers on working from the front of the boat. Because of the slight mounting angle of the TM I had to drill a new Port side front hole in the bracket to position it.

1 hole through the front Starboard side of the aluminum plate then down through the lip(visible in the pic)

2 holes in the back edge of the aluminum plate(visible in the pics) going down through the 3/4" starboard.

2 holes in the two rear bracket mounting holes(not visible because they are hidden under the sliding bracket). These were the toughest because you really have to reach under the front deck from inside the storage hatch and there is not much room. Make sure you use the shortest bolts you can in these holes because there is not much space under there.

I used very large Stainless steel fender washers as backing plates under the deck.

My install has been very solid. Nothing has moved in 3 years.

Lastly if you look at the front on picture closely you can see some stacked washers under the right hand side(port) side. This was done to level the TM. Crude but effective.
Good luck


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*looking for detailed help*

crghill,

I did this procedure just last weekend for my newly installed MK TM. A fish tape runs along the V-groove in the center of the hull. It will almost pop out of the hole made forward of the bulk head with just the right bend on it. I can try to post some pics of the install if you like.


----------



## crghill

FlatsCatFL said:


> crghill,
> 
> I did this procedure just last weekend for my newly installed MK TM. A fish tape runs along the V-groove in the center of the hull. It will almost pop out of the hole made forward of the bulk head with just the right bend on it. I can try to post some pics of the install if you like.


Man, that would be great. If I get to Lake Worth, could I take a look at it? I'm in Punta Gorda.


----------



## Hal P

*Just put my 2103 17' Pro Skiff up for sale*

Just a heads up if you are looking for a like new boat for a good price. We are selling our 2103 17' Pro Skiff up for sale in the boats for sale section.


----------



## Hal P

*Just put my 2013 17' Pro Skiff up for sale*

Oppps meant 2013


----------



## 8814ca

FlatsCatFL said:


> crghill,
> 
> I did this procedure just last weekend for my newly installed MK TM. A fish tape runs along the V-groove in the center of the hull. It will almost pop out of the hole made forward of the bulk head with just the right bend on it. I can try to post some pics of the install if you like.


 I would love to see some pictures. I don't understand about the fish tape, v-groove and the hole forward of the bulk head. Thank you.


----------



## highanddryinco

*Hi Old Friends*

Shout out to all the old guys back when this thread was young. A lot of good knowledge was traded back and forth. I think I built the original custom I-pilot mount along with my dual battery mount setup. Search my posts for pictures if you need ideas. I disappeared a couple of years ago but thought I'd check back in. I still have my Pro Skiff, I still love it, but it may be going away soon. I'm test driving a Yamaha FSH this weekend and may come home with it. That said, there may be a very good, low hours, mostly freshwater 2012 Pro Skiff on the market soon.

Very cool to see this thread is still going strong. :cheers::cheers::cheers::cheers:


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*Fishing wire to front storage area*

hello all. hang tight, i'm gonna try to put together some pics and step by step info on the above procedure this weekend. tight lines!


----------



## FlatsCatFL

FlatsCatFL said:


> hello all. hang tight, i'm gonna try to put together some pics and step by step info on the above procedure this weekend. tight lines!


hello all. i hope the pictures come out properly.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*photo explanation*

oh well, one out of four pics came out right.


----------



## joebucko

FlatsCatFL said:


> oh well, one out of four pics came out right.


Thanks Flats
Under the console did you bring the bow wiring up through the existing boot or did you drill another hole in the floor under the console?


----------



## FlatsCatFL

joebucko said:


> Thanks Flats
> Under the console did you bring the bow wiring up through the existing boot or did you drill another hole in the floor under the console?


Hi JB, 
I used the existing factory tube. I moved the existing rigging as far to the left as I could, then made a 7/8th hole with a paddle bit.

At the front bulkhead I drilled a series of small holes in the diameter I wanted. I then used a Dremel tool with various bits to cut the deck between the previously made smaller holes. The rubber boot I sourced at Home Depot toilet accessories section.

Since I've got your ear, I finally got my MJ jack plate installed this weekend with the help of a friend who has a shop with a fork lift. While rigging for the JP, I ran new battery cables for the starting and trolling motor batteries so they could reside inside the console. A Blue Sea 5510e dual battery disconnect switch flush mounted top port side on the console finished off the electrical install.


----------



## joebucko

Thanks Flats.
I really like my MicroJacker JP because it allows me to fine tune the ride based on conditions. I am a bit surprised at how high I can actually raise the engine without blowing out and it can make a 1-3mph difference in top end speed. 
Let us know if you see any difference in boat handling with the weight of both batteries centered under the console.


----------



## Strat

I am having some issues with my 60 horse mercury warning horn beeping upon start up. It beeps six times. Is that normal for you guys? I'm relatively new to this boat not sure what to make out of the warning horn. I just had it in the shop and they detected no alarm codes


----------



## Zorro

Getting ready to pick up my new Pro Skiff 17 and have a couple of questions:
1) trying to decide between the Hummingbird Helix 7 SI/GPS or the Helix 5 SI/GPS. Any advice would be appreciated.
2) this is my very first non bailing hull. How do you get the water out when you wash down the cockpit?


----------



## kcliff

Strat how new is the motor? Could be routine service warning. Most boats are first 10 hours then maybe every year or 100hrs


----------



## joebucko

Zorro said:


> Getting ready to pick up my new Pro Skiff 17 and have a couple of questions:
> 1) trying to decide between the Hummingbird Helix 7 SI/GPS or the Helix 5 SI/GPS. Any advice would be appreciated.
> 2) this is my very first non bailing hull. How do you get the water out when you wash down the cockpit?


Get the biggest screen you can afford. I had a 5" screen before upgrading to a 999si which is 8". It makes a huge difference.
As for the wash down I assume this is after you pull the boat from the water. If so just pull both plugs on the transom and wash away. Be sure to raise the bow slightly higher than the stern to allow the water to drain.


----------



## Zorro

Thank you, Joe!


----------



## Zorro

JoeBuck did you use a 4inch or 8 inch RAM mount for your unit?


----------



## joebucko

Zorro said:


> JoeBuck did you use a 4inch or 8 inch RAM mount for your unit?


Neither. I significantly modified a RAM-109H....6" horizontal swing arm mount. I'll post a picture in the next day or two. Of the ones you are looking at I'd suggest the 8" heavy duty mount. Hopefully others will chime with their choice.


----------



## prod1944

*steering*

Hey guys. Has anybody installed baystar hydraulic steering. Looking to do so but would sure appreciate some feedback on how it compares to the stock mechanical steering. I have 66 fishing trips in my boat and the only real complaint is the steering in tight quarters (2015 pro 17).


----------



## joebucko

prod1944 said:


> Hey guys. Has anybody installed baystar hydraulic steering. Looking to do so but would sure appreciate some feedback on how it compares to the stock mechanical steering. I have 66 fishing trips in my boat and the only real complaint is the steering in tight quarters (2015 pro 17).


I installed a Baystar unit on my Proskiff. It was a pretty easy install and I have been very pleased. The only thing I might have changed was the hoses. The kit I bought came with cut to length hose which had factory installed couplers at the engine end. I believe its 1/4" id hose. It works fine but you can get their 5/16" ID hose with factory installed fittings on both ends(extra cost and you have to determine the exact length hose you need). According to the factory rep I spoke with this larger diameter hose will allow for even easier steering. The Baystar system I have is definitely easier to steer than the original Teleflex with very little play in the wheel and is of course Non-feedback. Unless something happens to my existing 1/4" hoses I will not bother to change them out.


----------



## prod1944

*steering*

Thanks Joebucko. I'm pretty sure I am going to install that system. Would you by any chance have the model number you installed. There are a few different models and the difference is the cylinder. The helm is the same but the cylinder at the motor can be different. I have seen decent prices on amazon.


----------



## joebucko

prod1944 said:


> Thanks Joebucko. I'm pretty sure I am going to install that system. Would you by any chance have the model number you installed. There are a few different models and the difference is the cylinder. The helm is the same but the cylinder at the motor can be different. I have seen decent prices on amazon.


I still have the box so I'll check it and post something tomorrow.


----------



## njgradywhite

Picked up the boat from the dealer after getting it serviced! It's just about that time here in NJ!


----------



## Strat

kcliff said:


> Strat how new is the motor? Could be routine service warning. Most boats are first 10 hours then maybe every year or 100hrs


kcliff, thanks for asking. The motor has about 160 hours on it according to the Tracker mechanic that serviced it about a month ago and "put it on the computer". There were no alarms or issues per the computer diagnostics. At the time I was unaware that the Mercury 60 horse motor was only supposed to beep 1 time on start up (not 6) so I didn't even ask.

Oddly enough, since I posted my last message, however, the extra beeping stopped, and now I only get one beep on start. I'm keeping my eye on it. Since I'm new to the boat (bought used three months ago), I'm still learning about these things. I've now launched it 10 times and love it. I will have to replace the trailer lights now since the receptacles for the bulbs were heavily corroded to the point that they won't hold new blinker lights tightly. The boat is a 2013 model.


----------



## jettech17

Finally ditched the cooler. Love it. Elevated 4 inches and it's just right


----------



## Zorro

*Pilot Seat*

Looks great! Where did you get the replacement?


----------



## mmacro

What's everyone doing with the space under the center console? I'm thinking about reinforcing the lip around the opening with some Starboard and mounting some Deep Blue Marine products in the void. They have some Plano storage cabinets and glovebox type of storage products that look like they might work out. I'd love to make that space a little more manageable and less prone to being a leaf/litter magnet.


----------



## joebucko

mmacro said:


> What's everyone doing with the space under the center console? I'm thinking about reinforcing the lip around the opening with some Starboard and mounting some Deep Blue Marine products in the void. They have some Plano storage cabinets and glovebox type of storage products that look like they might work out. I'd love to make that space a little more manageable and less prone to being a leaf/litter magnet.


I store a small tool box, spare prop and jumper cables in my center console. I looked at other options but the space is so cluttered with cabling that I did not think it was practical. To keep debris out from under the console I made a starboard cover which also allowed me to add a small storage hatch that has been very convenient.


----------



## mmacro

That's just about what I was thinking about. The company I'm looking at has some pretty nice compartments, similar to yours. They come in all sizes. I'll post up some photos later. I'm hoping a small watertight compartment for wallet/phone etc... And a Plano box holder will fit in the space.


----------



## njgradywhite

joebucko said:


> I store a small tool box, spare prop and jumper cables in my center console. I looked at other options but the space is so cluttered with cabling that I did not think it was practical. To keep debris out from under the console I made a starboard cover which also allowed me to add a small storage hatch that has been very convenient.


After all the time of looking at this post of the last year I never noticed the wheel. Love it. Which wheel did you switch to?


----------



## mmacro

I was thinking about something like these if they will fit.


----------



## joebucko

njgradywhite said:


> After all the time of looking at this post of the last year I never noticed the wheel. Love it. Which wheel did you switch to?


I am not sure about the manufacturer. It is a standard 13.5" destroyer type wheel with the rubber grippy stuff around the outside.


----------



## Kevin Nicholls

jettech17 said:


> View attachment 2870098
> 
> 
> Finally ditched the cooler. Love it. Elevated 4 inches and it's just right


What type and how long are the screws you used to secure it to the floor. I'm looking to change mine also. Thanks, Kevin.


----------



## flyjag

Just finally joined the forum guys. I appreciate all the information. I've had may 17 for almost two years now and read much of this before buying the boat. Has anyone resolved the issue with the power pole bracket? My boat has been at the installer with no solution. I was hoping since it has been a few years we may have a solution, or are ya'll just using the microstick?


----------



## jettech17

Kevin Nicholls said:


> What type and how long are the screws you used to secure it to the floor. I'm looking to change mine also. Thanks, Kevin.


I believe they were 3/4" because the plate is 1/4" thick on the seat


----------



## jettech17

Zorro said:


> Looks great! Where did you get the replacement?


Family friend in corpus.I'm trading for some airbrush work on a car. There is a fella on here that quoted a great price on building one very similar.


----------



## yeocokent

Does anyone know the part number for the water pump kit for the 2014 60hp ELPT that comes on the boat?


----------



## yeocokent

By the way, I was up at Basspro a few days ago and saw the new 19. That is a lot of boat for the money. Really nice and a lot more fishing space.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*Hull questions*

Hello all, a couple of questions.

Has anyone come across pictures or videos of the pro skiff hull layup from Mako or third parties?

Has anyone felt the need to add drain holes to the transom's lowest points port and starboard where the hull finishes in a V?

I've seen some CS owner videos do the additional drain holes. I still take on quite a bit of water in the lower hull cavity on some outings, and wonder if I'm still holding water in those outside hull cavities after the center drain runs dry.


----------



## atexan

To add to the "holding water" topic. I pulled my 17 out of the shed and saw it still had water in the lower bottom tray by the cable boot. No matter how much I tilt it, it don't drain. Anything down there that will rust?


----------



## FlatsCatFL

atexan said:


> To add to the "holding water" topic. I pulled my 17 out of the shed and saw it still had water in the lower bottom tray by the cable boot. No matter how much I tilt it, it don't drain. Anything down there that will rust?


Yeah, that deck dimple in front of the rear boot wasn't really thought through by Mako me thinks. I bought the 'el cheapo' hand pump from Harbor Freight and pump it out when needed.

It's not likely there's a rust issue there unless a wire gets nicked when pulling new wires through for mod devices.


----------



## Zorro

Anyone install a side imaging transducer on their skiff? Is there enough clearance for a view past the motor without adding a jack plate?


----------



## joebucko

Zorro said:


> Anyone install a side imaging transducer on their skiff? Is there enough clearance for a view past the motor without adding a jack plate?


eyesneer installed his Lowrance on the outside starboard corner. You might want to check with him on how well it works. 
I opted to install a jackplate with 4" setback with my my Humminbird transducer mounted in the center of the transom and it works great. I also installed a separate 2D sonar transducer on the outside starboard corner to enable depth readings at planing speed. I could never get the big transducer to read 2D correctly at speed. This had the advantage of allowing me to raise the big $expensive$ SI/DI transducer above the water line when on plane to protect it against impact damage.
Instead of a JP you could install a 4" setback bracket to give you the room.


----------



## 8814ca

*Position of ipilot on Pro 17 skiff*

I have a Pro 17 Skiff on order. Hopefully it will be here within the next two weeks. I am going to put a Minn Kota ipilot on the bow. The mounting instructions from MinnKota say to mount the trolling motor as close to the centerline of the boat as possible. I also checked the mounting instructions on the Motorguide site and the instructions on TrollingMotors.net website. They say the same thing. One of them said if the shaft and prop are off center you may encounter drifting and steering problems. It seems to me that the boat could not track straight if motor is off center. It seems that the boat would have to be pulled through the water at a slight angle. I know that some people put a cleat in the center of the bow to tie an anchor rope to. This makes the boat face straight into the current or wind. It seems to me that if you were using the anchor function on the ipilot that it must be centered to make the boat face into the current or waves. All the pictures I see here show the motors off to the side. Please give me your thoughts on this. Would I be better off with the motor mounted closer to the center than off to the side? I do realize it may cut down on deck space. Thanks for your opinions.


----------



## joebucko

8814ca said:


> I have a Pro 17 Skiff on order. Hopefully it will be here within the next two weeks. I am going to put a Minn Kota ipilot on the bow. The mounting instructions from MinnKota say to mount the trolling motor as close to the centerline of the boat as possible. I also checked the mounting instructions on the Motorguide site and the instructions on TrollingMotors.net website. They say the same thing. One of them said if the shaft and prop are off center you may encounter drifting and steering problems. It seems to me that the boat could not track straight if motor is off center. It seems that the boat would have to be pulled through the water at a slight angle. I know that some people put a cleat in the center of the bow to tie an anchor rope to. This makes the boat face straight into the current or wind. It seems to me that if you were using the anchor function on the ipilot that it must be centered to make the boat face into the current or waves. All the pictures I see here show the motors off to the side. Please give me your thoughts on this. Would I be better off with the motor mounted closer to the center than off to the side? I do realize it may cut down on deck space. Thanks for your opinions.


Most of us have mounted out TMs on the port side of the bow with the TM battery under the front deck on the starboard side. This frees up the bow casting deck whether the TM is deployed or not.

My Minn Kota Terrova iPilot works perfectly fine in this position and my boat tracks straight. When using the Anchor function you do want to point into wind/current. The reason it tracks straight is the cat like hull on the Proskiff. This hull also makes it very easy to get on the trailer because it does track so straight and the bunks on the trailer pretty much self-align. A traditional V-hill or flat bottom skiff/jon boat would tend to track at an angle with the TM mounted off center.


----------



## atexan

joebucko said:


> Most of us have mounted out TMs on the port side of the bow with the TM battery under the front deck on the starboard side. This frees up the bow casting deck whether the TM is deployed or not.
> 
> My Minn Kota Terrova iPilot works perfectly fine in this position and my boat tracks straight. When using the Anchor function you do want to point into wind/current. The reason it tracks straight is the cat like hull on the Proskiff. This hull also makes it very easy to get on the trailer because it does track so straight and the bunks on the trailer pretty much self-align. A traditional V-hill or flat bottom skiff/jon boat would tend to track at an angle with the TM mounted off center.


I second Joes comment. Mine is not an ipilot but works just the same. Mounted on the port side with the quick release base. Worth the extra expense to be able to get the TM out of the way when needed.


----------



## 8814ca

joebucko said:


> Most of us have mounted out TMs on the port side of the bow with the TM battery under the front deck on the starboard side. This frees up the bow casting deck whether the TM is deployed or not.
> 
> My Minn Kota Terrova iPilot works perfectly fine in this position and my boat tracks straight. When using the Anchor function you do want to point into wind/current. The reason it tracks straight is the cat like hull on the Proskiff. This hull also makes it very easy to get on the trailer because it does track so straight and the bunks on the trailer pretty much self-align. A traditional V-hill or flat bottom skiff/jon boat would tend to track at an angle with the TM mounted off center.


Thank you.


----------



## 8814ca

atexan said:


> I second Joes comment. Mine is not an ipilot but works just the same. Mounted on the port side with the quick release base. Worth the extra expense to be able to get the TM out of the way when needed.


Thanks for your reply.


----------



## rgourley11

*New Pro 19'*


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*21' Pro Skiff debuts*

http://www.mako-boats.com/boat/?boat=3917


----------



## DO GOODER

*water in the hull*

you guys are awesome . just got my 2013 used. why doesn't the bilge pump work to remove water from the hull. am I missing something?


----------



## joebucko

DO GOODER said:


> you guys are awesome . just got my 2013 used. why doesn't the bilge pump work to remove water from the hull. am I missing something?


You are not missing anything. Probably all of us have pondered this question so here's my opinion. It seems logical to think you would have a way to pump from the hull while underway on the water. In theory the hull should have very little air space since it is lined with flotation foam capped off by the Hull liner and any water that does collect is designed to flow to the lowest point in the boat which is where the lower drain plug is located. 
Most water is going to collect on the hull liner which has the stern recess where the bilge pump is located. In theory keeping this pumped out should prevent water from entering the hull through the wiring boot.

I am on my 4 year with my Pro17 and so far I have not had any water in the hull issues. A few owners have had significant hull water issues but the vast majority do not. As a result Mako has apparently seen no reason to add bilge pump capability to the hull.


----------



## MichaelMcNease

flounder boy said:


> Gonna try and load pics of mods completed since purchase in March.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This the Bimini from bass pro
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This would be the ladder custom built for the boat
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are the rod holders. I had a hard time settling on the right rod holders due to the non flat surface of the gunnels. These mount individually and work great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added a second tank and can run all day on 12 gallons.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Hi, was wanting to know if you remembered where you found the rod hanger/holders that were individual ones to mount. I'm having same problem trying to mount some to the side because it is not a flat surface. Thanks for any info you can give me


----------



## Mouse52

Where did you get the ladder?


----------



## flounder boy

I am in Houston and found the rod holders at fishing tackle unlimited but they can be ordered on line. They are 20.00 a pair. The ladder was designed with my input and fabricated by a bass pro shop vendor. They now keep a few in stock. It has been a popular item.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## MichaelMcNease

Thanks. Im from Kerrville but go to Houston often. Will look online and see about ordering them or just have my brother pick them up in Houston. I take my skiff out in Matagorda Bay a lot down off palacios and it works great just been wanting something to hold my rods so i can have my cover up and them not be in the way all the time. Will have to ask the San Antonio Bass Pro if they have the ladder as well would be easier then the step on that come on the boat when trying to climb out of the water. Thanks for the response.


----------



## DO GOODER

Launching with I pilot
can the I pilot be lowered while still on the trailer for manless launch? I know the Ulterra with auto deploy works but wondering if it can be done with regular riptide I pilot.


----------



## joebucko

DO GOODER said:


> Launching with I pilot
> can the I pilot be lowered while still on the trailer for manless launch? I know the Ulterra with auto deploy works but wondering if it can be done with regular riptide I pilot.


Interesting question. I think the answer depends on several things:
1. The design of your trailer.
2. The depth of the iPilot in the water.
3. The slope of the launch ramp.
4. The range of the transmitter.

Let us know what you find out.


----------



## FlyItAll

Do Gooder - The ipilot does not automatically deploy. You would have to deploy it while you could still reach it. If you deployed it while the boat is still on the trailer, I don't think you could launch the boat without the ipilot dragging or snagging on the trailer.


----------



## KiteboarderDoug

*Minn Kota Wiring Question*

So the guy who wired up my Riptide used connectors from West Marine which have corroded and rusted on me twice so I never know when I plug into the connector on my bow if it is going to work or not. So should I just get the Minn Kota MKR18 connector or use something else? I have a hole in my bow deck from the other connector that I would like to utilize. thanks


----------



## rgourley11

*Steering cable connection*

Can anyone take a picture of the steering cable connection in the con olÃ©. Thanks


----------



## njgradywhite

Finally upgraded the wheel on the Mako. So far so good! Steering knob us a cheap one that u am trying out before I buy a nicer, smaller one.


----------



## njgradywhite

Already changed the steering knob. Took the boat for a ride with the larger knob and just didn't like it. Picked up this smaller SS one at Bass Pro today. Much better.


----------



## Missed Again

*Bow Seat Mounts*

Tarpontapper and others of you using bow mounted tiller handle trolling motors, where is your bow pedestal seat mount located? Is it close enough to the trolling motor so you can reach the handle while seated or back so far you must stand to use it? Did you put in the seat base yourself or did you order it as an option? If it is an option where does Mako normally put it? Is there someone at Mako you can call and discuss this? Somewhere in the past on a forum/review thread I found where a manufacturer of skiffs installed these and the one used had a problem with the rubber insert, was this Mako or another brand boat? I have slugged through this thread but donâ€™t remember seeing reference to it here, but this thing is sooooo looonnngg one can get lost. Then too Iâ€™ve read so much on boats Iâ€™m investigating I do not remember where I found it or which boat it is.


----------



## Missed Again

*Prop for Trolling*

A question for JoeB and other propeller nerds. Most discussions on props here center on how fast one can go under whatever kind of condition comes up, myself I find it hard to catch fish running 30+ mph. As I do most of my fishing single hand what I do the most of, especially in the wind and current looking for Flounder, is troll or at least keep the motor running for boat control. I want to go as slow as possible, mostly I go at idle speed. To do this on my last boat I dropped my prop by a pitch or two. From your experience, experimentations, and calculations what would be your choice of a prop for a lightly loaded, 60 HP Pro 17 for this application?


----------



## joebucko

Missed Again said:


> A question for JoeB and other propeller nerds. Most discussions on props here center on how fast one can go under whatever kind of condition comes up, myself I find it hard to catch fish running 30+ mph. As I do most of my fishing single hand what I do the most of, especially in the wind and current looking for Flounder, is troll or at least keep the motor running for boat control. I want to go as slow as possible, mostly I go at idle speed. To do this on my last boat I dropped my prop by a pitch or two. From your experience, experimentations, and calculations what would be your choice of a prop for a lightly loaded, 60 HP Pro 17 for this application?


Good question Missed Again. 
We always talk about speed relative to WOT/RPM but like fighter jets you don't dogfight at Mach2+. My two favorite props are a 3 blade Powertech NREB13p (equivalent to the Vengeance13P) and the Amita 4 blade 13P. With either prop my slowest trolling speed is around 2.4-2.6mph. If I need to troll slower than that I use my 55#thrust Terrova Trolling Motor which will pull the Pro17 at about 2.2mph max.

In order to use the Mercury 60 to troll slower than 2.4-2.6mph I suspect you'd have to drop the prop to 10-11P which would destroy your top end speed and you'd be hitting your Rev limiter on the engine at WOT. I think a better solution would be to add a trolling plate to the engine. It would slow your trolling speed down significantly and have little affect on the top end and fuel economy.


----------



## MarkU

I'm going to be selling my 17 Pro Skiff. Haven't used it in over a year. Since I sold my place in Sea Isle. I'm taking it to the shop to get a new impeller, oil change done. It's basically a stock boat with the 60 hp. I've added a Riptide remote control 12volt trolling motor. Engine probably has 20-25 hrs max. Trolling motor was used mainly, 60 hrs. We just fished the Snake Island area, out of Sea Isle. That's the reason for the low hours. Not too far to go, to catch fish.

If interested, PM me, we'll chat about price and such.


----------



## mako17chd

*NFB Helm*

Greetings all! Long time reader first time poster. I bought my 17 summer of 14. I'm ready to upgrade the steering to make it easier for the wife and kids to pilot the boat (I'm tired of always driving!). I just received the 4.2 NFB helm today and I was surprised how big it is. I got the helm only, not the kit. I'm curious from those who have made this switch if the new module will fit the existing bracket. I'm also upgrading the steering wheel to the 13.5 destroyer style wheel. Can't wait! I'd appreciate any tips on the helm switch - dos donts tools etc. The boat is an hour and a half away so if I'm missing something it means some serious car time.


----------



## joebucko

mako17chd said:


> Greetings all! Long time reader first time poster. I bought my 17 summer of 14. I'm ready to upgrade the steering to make it easier for the wife and kids to pilot the boat (I'm tired of always driving!). I just received the 4.2 NFB helm today and I was surprised how big it is. I got the helm only, not the kit. I'm curious from those who have made this switch if the new module will fit the existing bracket. I'm also upgrading the steering wheel to the 13.5 destroyer style wheel. Can't wait! I'd appreciate any tips on the helm switch - dos donts tools etc. The boat is an hour and a half away so if I'm missing something it means some serious car time.


I don't know the answer on the 4.2nfb bracket. My guess is that it will fit but worse case you might have to swap the brackets. The Safety T and regular NFB use the same bracket so I'd download the installation instructions for one of these and compare the cutout template to the template for the 4.2 to determine if any modification to the existing hole is required.

Since you are going to pull the existing steering wheel you need to be prepared for a fight. Take some PB Blaster and if it were me I'd rent a wheel puller kit from a local Autoparts store to aid in pulling the wheel. Pulling the wheel is the first step so if you can't get it off you can't proceed.


----------



## mako17chd

Ok so I've replaced the old safe-t helm with the 4.2 NFB helm and replaced the steering wheel while I was at it. Everything went pretty smoothly except that MY STEERING IS NOW BACKWARDS!! The new helm went in facing the same direction as the old with the cable entering the helm at the top. I can't figure out what I did wrong. I didn't see any other way I could have done the installation. This is the teleflex SH4910P.


----------



## alexgrimes1976

I bought a new Pro Skiff 17 with 60hp in March. I'm getting ready to take it in for the 20 hour break-in service. It has had a tendency to hesitate at acceleration, and will seem to skip, surge, bog momentarily even on plane at cruise. It doesn't do it all the time but it does do it on occasion. The prop also will seem to lose bite when it comes into a swell or hits a wave. Has anybody experienced any of this? If there is an issue, will this be covered under warranty?


----------



## joebucko

alexgrimes1976 said:


> I bought a new Pro Skiff 17 with 60hp in March. I'm getting ready to take it in for the 20 hour break-in service. It has had a tendency to hesitate at acceleration, and will seem to skip, surge, bog momentarily even on plane at cruise. It doesn't do it all the time but it does do it on occasion. The prop also will seem to lose bite when it comes into a swell or hits a wave. Has anybody experienced any of this? If there is an issue, will this be covered under warranty?


I don't notice/remember my Merc 60 hesitating/surging but mine is well broken in so it might have done so in its early life.

Prop losing bite is not engine related. Since your engine height is probably at the factory setting either you are trimmed incorrectly for the conditions or you might benefit from a different propeller. What propeller is on your boat and what is it's pitch?


----------



## njgradywhite

Well. To go along with the great luck that I have with my Mako Pro Skiff 17, I now have to get warranty glass work done. Was out in some nasty chop in the bay last week and hit a nice wave. Shook the boat completely. Notice a nice little hole on the inside of the boat.

Called the dealer and they looked at it and it was an air void in the resin from the factory. Thankfully all covered under warranty.

But yet another issue with the boat. Ugh. More time out of the water.




























Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


----------



## alexgrimes1976

joebucko said:


> alexgrimes1976 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I bought a new Pro Skiff 17 with 60hp in March. I'm getting ready to take it in for the 20 hour break-in service. It has had a tendency to hesitate at acceleration, and will seem to skip, surge, bog momentarily even on plane at cruise. It doesn't do it all the time but it does do it on occasion. The prop also will seem to lose bite when it comes into a swell or hits a wave. Has anybody experienced any of this? If there is an issue, will this be covered under warranty?
> 
> 
> 
> I don't notice/remember my Merc 60 hesitating/surging but mine is well broken in so it might have done so in its early life.
> 
> Prop losing bite is not engine related. Since your engine height is probably at the factory setting either you are trimmed incorrectly for the conditions or you might benefit from a different propeller. What propeller is on your boat and what is it's pitch?
Click to expand...

It's the stainless Vengence prop that came on it. It's very small compared to previous outboards I've owned and I've suspected it to be s trim issue. I love the boat. The ride is nice and dry for a 17', with little pitch or yaw at anchor or drifting. We took it 20 miles down the beach from Panama City Beach Sunday and were comfortable to and from our snapper spots. So far I love the boat other than the minor motor issues. It's going to the dealer this weekend and they are going to address the sporadic bogging. It may just need an adjustment. The fuel economy is fantastic.


----------



## KeithD.

To the guys that have replaced the cooler seat with something else such as a flip seat or leaning post how has it been holding up. I would like to replace my cooler seat with a leaning post but was wondering if the floor is thick enough to get a decent size screw in it. Have you guys had these items custom built or have you been able to find them commercially available?


----------



## joebucko

Alexgrimes
The Vengeance prop is one of the best props you can put on this boat/motor combination. Since you have very few hours on the boat additional time on the water should cure the prop issue. You will find it is just an issue of matching trim and speed to the water conditions.


----------



## Kevin Nicholls

Keith, I replaced my cooler with a Wise 70gt flip back seat for about $375 on Amazon. I screwed it to the deck with 1/4" x 1 1/4" stainless screws. It's very solid. I like the back support while driving from A to B. I worried about the stock cooler being stolen because everyone seams to think its a Yeti. Good luck, Kevin.


----------



## KiteboarderDoug

To me it is a trim issue.. I experience the same issues. The boat is very sensitive to weight distribution and trim settings.


----------



## KiteboarderDoug

My seat cushion is failing and Mako wants $150 and so does the guy who does vinyl marine seats. Any other suggestions or recommendations?


----------



## TexasAg12

Long time lurker here. I can partially blame this thread for causing me to go buy one of these boats last July. It's my first boat so I can't really give an opinion on it, but it gets the job done. I was wondering if anyone has installed a power pole. Is there a bracket available for these skiffs that can attach to the motor mount? Or did you mount it through the hull?


----------



## scrat

*Stick it anchor*

I use a 12 foot stick-it anchor. Kindof a manual way to get the job done. Can also be used to do a little poling when needed.


----------



## joebucko

TexasAg12 said:


> Long time lurker here. I can partially blame this thread for causing me to go buy one of these boats last July. It's my first boat so I can't really give an opinion on it, but it gets the job done. I was wondering if anyone has installed a power pole. Is there a bracket available for these skiffs that can attach to the motor mount? Or did you mount it through the hull?


I also use a manual "Stickit" anchor pin when not using the anchor feature on my iPilot Trolling Motor. I briefly considered a Powerpole but couldn't justify the cost and additional weight on the stern.


----------



## atexan

I also use a 6' homemade version of the Stick-It and it works well. I will be upgrading to a 8' or 10' version as soon as I earn some extra $$$$.


----------



## DigiCowboy

*Merc 60 Air Dam Problems*

I had to replace the air dam (black insert on the top of the engine cowling) on my Mercury 60 when it was only about 9 months old. It is mounted to the cowling with 4 screws and the front two threaded legs broke off at their base. It was never banged or smashed, so I assumed it was a bad part and broke from vibration.

Well, I was out fishing yesterday and heard that strange noise again, when the front mounts crack on the air dam the leading edge vibrates when the motor is running, especially noticeable at low speed. Sure enough that darn thing is broken again, exactly the same way. I called the dealer to order another one and he is 'checking' with Mercury to make sure they will pay for another. I don't have an answer yet, but I am thinking that they sure better replace it! The only thing I could think of was our regular trips towing it to our favorite fishing grounds, from the east coast of FL (Davie) to the west coast, Flamingo or just south of Marco Island. Could the 70 mph long trips be causing it? The service dept. of a local Merc dealer did not think so, it should be made to handle that.

So I was wondering, has anyone else has this problem?


----------



## Ecto1

*Thank You everyone*

This is an Awesome thread and I am only 61 pages in. I hope to finish it by the weekend and it has already answered most of my questions. My Wife has said she wants a boat so we can do more fishing with the family and who am I to argue. We really like the Pro Skiff 19 and are just about ready to pull the trigger. I like the 17 but i want enough room that if all the kids want to go I never have to tell them no. We are from South Texas but my job currently has me 12 miles from Calcasieu Lake in Louisiana and $600 a pop for a guide got old real quick. I do have a few questions I was hoping someone could answer for me. This will be our first boat.

1. What size trolling motor do you think would be perfect for 19 foot version of the proskiff? Wireless? Tiller?

2. The website says the 19 is rated for 200 pounds (passenger weight) less than the 17 this has to be a typo correct?

3. Would a factory installed battery charger be a wise investment or is it just as easy to charge the batteries off the boat?

4. Being a first boat would I be OK with the factory prop? I am going to go with the 90HP engine I am not a speed person and the runs we will be making will be fairly short right now.

5. Recommendation for a GPS/Dept unit?

6. Any other recommendations if you could do it all over again.

Thanks a million in advance.


----------



## mako17chd

*Rear seating*

I added some seating to the rear deck. They're pedestal mounted and removable. I used a kit provided by the parts guys at BPS Pearland.


----------



## joebucko

Ecto1 said:


> This is an Awesome thread and I am only 61 pages in. I hope to finish it by the weekend and it has already answered most of my questions. My Wife has said she wants a boat so we can do more fishing with the family and who am I to argue. We really like the Pro Skiff 19 and are just about ready to pull the trigger. I like the 17 but i want enough room that if all the kids want to go I never have to tell them no. We are from South Texas but my job currently has me 12 miles from Calcasieu Lake in Louisiana and $600 a pop for a guide got old real quick. I do have a few questions I was hoping someone could answer for me. This will be our first boat.
> 
> 1. What size trolling motor do you think would be perfect for 19 foot version of the proskiff? Wireless? Tiller?
> 
> 2. The website says the 19 is rated for 200 pounds (passenger weight) less than the 17 this has to be a typo correct?
> 
> 3. Would a factory installed battery charger be a wise investment or is it just as easy to charge the batteries off the boat?
> 
> 4. Being a first boat would I be OK with the factory prop? I am going to go with the 90HP engine I am not a speed person and the runs we will be making will be fairly short right now.
> 
> 5. Recommendation for a GPS/Dept unit?
> 
> 6. Any other recommendations if you could do it all over again.
> 
> Thanks a million in advance.


Good luck on your first boat purchase. The Mako Pro19 would be nice first boat for anyone.

1. Trolling motor will need to be 80# thrust. I have a 55# on my Pro17 and I can tell you it would not be enough motor for the 19' boat. The tricky part will be deciding on cable steer, tiller or wireless. I much prefer wireless/remote. I have a MinnKota Terrova iPilot on my boat and it is the best accessory I have added.

2. I can't address the apparent 200# discrepancy in the load ratings.

3. You will want an on-board charger for the batteries. Whether you install it or have the dealer do it is up to you.

4. Personally I'd go with the 115HP motor. You never hear guys complain about having too much horsepower. You can get the Pro17 with 5 different motors (25-60hp) but it performs the best with the 60. I suspect the Pro19 will do much better with the 115 and it is only adding about $1000 to the price.

5. GPS/Depth finder is going to be dependent on where and how you fish.

6. The only thing I can think of that you might want to address at/or soon after you purchase the boat is a decent boarding ladder. The little step and handle arrangement is entirely inadequate.


----------



## Ecto1

Finally read this entire post wow this is super good info. Going back to the dealer next week with the wife to test drive the 17 and the 19 and pick out our boat. We looked at a ton of them and kept going back to the Mako we just love the huge casting deck up front. The 19 foot is 7'9 wide too so plenty of room for my family of 5.


----------



## FlyItAll

Ecto1 said:


> This is an Awesome thread and I am only 61 pages in. I hope to finish it by the weekend and it has already answered most of my questions. My Wife has said she wants a boat so we can do more fishing with the family and who am I to argue. We really like the Pro Skiff 19 and are just about ready to pull the trigger. I like the 17 but i want enough room that if all the kids want to go I never have to tell them no. We are from South Texas but my job currently has me 12 miles from Calcasieu Lake in Louisiana and $600 a pop for a guide got old real quick. I do have a few questions I was hoping someone could answer for me. This will be our first boat.
> 
> 1. What size trolling motor do you think would be perfect for 19 foot version of the proskiff? Wireless? Tiller?
> 
> 2. The website says the 19 is rated for 200 pounds (passenger weight) less than the 17 this has to be a typo correct?
> 
> 3. Would a factory installed battery charger be a wise investment or is it just as easy to charge the batteries off the boat?
> 
> 4. Being a first boat would I be OK with the factory prop? I am going to go with the 90HP engine I am not a speed person and the runs we will be making will be fairly short right now.
> 
> 5. Recommendation for a GPS/Dept unit?
> 
> 6. Any other recommendations if you could do it all over again.
> 
> Thanks a million in advance.


Ecto- I have only seen pictures of the 19' and I have owned the 17' with 60hp for several years now. The 19' looks like a great boat though and if you will have 5 people on board very often, you will be glad for the extra space.

1. X2 on the recommendation for the wireless trolling motor. You might be OK with a 55# thrust, but if you have current to contend with you will want something stronger.

2. Don't assume the 19' is rated to carry more weight than the 17', nail this down before you buy. The 17' has an unusually high rating and was one of the reasons I chose it.

3. A factory installed battery charger is a good idea only if it is wired to charge both your engine battery and your trolling motor batteries. Getting wires from a charger to both batteries is a real problem on the 17', but maybe they changed it on the 19'. I decided it wasn't worth the effort to install a charger on my boat. I have a spot on my trolling motor battery case with exposed copper that I simply hook a charger to. Your engine chargers the starting battery and I have never needed to hook a charger to it.

4. X2 on buying the largest engine rated for the boat.

5. Lots of good units to choose from based on your usage.

6. My 17' is near perfect for what I wanted to use it for. These boats are utilitarian and priced right. If some additional seating with back support is available on the 19' you might want that. The ice chest is way to big for my needs on the 17' so I use it for storage and I carry a smaller one on the boat, but it would be nice if a smaller one were built in.

Good luck with your decision.


----------



## Ecto1

Just got off the phone it seems like the 19 does have a lower recommended Max weight due the extra weight of the boat and motor. This puts me in a pickle if I had all of the family with me it would be about 700 pounds or 50 pounds higher but that would be in the recommended max for the 17 foot. They both have a max rating of 1400 I am confused. I may have to look at the room in the 17 again.


----------



## joebucko

Ecto1 said:


> Just got off the phone it seems like the 19 does have a lower recommended Max weight due the extra weight of the boat and motor. This puts me in a pickle if I had all of the family with me it would be about 700 pounds or 50 pounds higher but that would be in the recommended max for the 17 foot. They both have a max rating of 1400 I am confused. I may have to look at the room in the 17 again.


If it were me I'd still get the 19' boat and not the 17'. There are formulas they use to determine all these factors and I bet you would be comfortably within the real limits in the 19' boat. The biggest reason I recommend the 19 is the amount of additional interior room you get over the 17' boat. The 19' boat is wider, longer and has higher sides than the 17. Putting 5 people in the 17 would be extremely crowded, not so much in the 19. Besides you won't be taking a full load every time you go out.


----------



## Ecto1

joebucko said:


> If it were me I'd still get the 19' boat and not the 17'. There are formulas they use to determine all these factors and I bet you would be comfortably within the real limits in the 19' boat. The biggest reason I recommend the 19 is the amount of additional interior room you get over the 17' boat. The 19' boat is wider, longer and has higher sides than the 17. Putting 5 people in the 17 would be extremely crowded, not so much in the 19. Besides you won't be taking a full load every time you go out.


That is what I am thinking also. I would guess the 5 of us will only be out all together maybe 20 percent of the time.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

Ecto1, welcome to the Pro Skiff family.

I echo the suggestions from the above posts. My add on suggestion is that you consider getting a water separator for your fuel delivery. The 19' has a built in fuel cell.


----------



## Ecto1

For those with the Min Kota Ipilot when you use it do you anchor at pints and fish the whole time with it on anchor and then move to the next point? In other words if I ran it all day like that would I wear it out. Not sitting for hours at a time in the same place but sometimes maybe 20-40 minutes


----------



## joebucko

Ecto1 said:


> For those with the Min Kota Ipilot when you use it do you anchor at pints and fish the whole time with it on anchor and then move to the next point? In other words if I ran it all day like that would I wear it out. Not sitting for hours at a time in the same place but sometimes maybe 20-40 minutes


Under normal conditions you shouldn't wear it out using the Anchor feature all day nor should you use up your battery. Just be sure you size it properly for you boat. In the case of the Mako Pro19 it should be at least 80# thrust. These things are very energy efficient with their digital maximizer motors. I am going on my 4th year with my Terrova iPilot and it shows no signs of slowing down.


----------



## Ecto1

joebucko said:


> Under normal conditions you shouldn't wear it out using the Anchor feature all day nor should you use up your battery. Just be sure you size it properly for you boat. In the case of the Mako Pro19 it should be at least 80# thrust. These things are very energy efficient with their digital maximizer motors. I am going on my 4th year with my Terrova iPilot and it shows no signs of slowing down.


This is the one I am looking at RIPTIDE ST 80 LB 54" i-PILOT. Trying to decide between the Lowrance Hook 5 and the Hummingbird Helix 5 right now. Going to make my own pole anchors. Also thinking about a Jack plate


----------



## Ecto1

Saw a Pro Skiff 21 at BPS in Pearland today it is a monster! You will need a step stool to get up on the front castin deck boy is it nice. The consoles on the 19 and 21 look nicer.


----------



## Kevin Nicholls

On my 2012 model I had a leak on the live well drain. Got to looking and the fitting coming out the bottom was cracked. I had to unbolt the center console to remove the fitting to replace it. Got a new one at Bass pro. When I put in the new one I found that the fitting sticks below the console apx 1/2". If I bolt the console back down it will break the new one. Bass Pro said to shim up the console or grind a divot in the deck. I don't like either idea. Anyone have an answer for this. Thanks, Kevin


----------



## Ecto1

Ordered my boat today will pick it up next Friday. Got great financing through my credit union. We test rode in a 19 last weekend and it was plenty of room. Can't wait to start customizing it. This is gonna be a family memory maker.


----------



## FlyItAll

Kevin- I don't have a solution for you, but I had a problem there also. My fitting didn't crack, but it did leak there and I had to tighten up the cable clamp which was nearly impossible without lifting the console. I found that I didn't use the live well anyway and converted it to dry storage. When you think about it though, there is already a hole thru the deck under the console so one more won't affect anything especially if you seal it up or put a boot on it.


----------



## Kevin Nicholls

Thanks FlyItAll. I replaced it and didn't gouge out the deck. I put it back like it was for now. I'm sure it will break again, so I'll have to figure something out eventually.


----------



## prod1944

*hydraulic steering*

Hey Joebucko, a couple of months back I asked you about baystar steering. I finally pulled the trigger and bought the steering and a bimini top. The difference is like night and day. It was so easy to install I was afraid I did something wrong. You dont realize how hard that mechanical steering is until you replace it with the hydraulic steering.


----------



## joebucko

prod1944 said:


> Hey Joebucko, a couple of months back I asked you about baystar steering. I finally pulled the trigger and bought the steering and a bimini top. The difference is like night and day. It was so easy to install I was afraid I did something wrong. You dont realize how hard that mechanical steering is until you replace it with the hydraulic steering.


I agree. Hydraulic steering is very nice, a bit costly but still very nice.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*baystar steering upgrade*



prod1944 said:


> Hey Joebucko, a couple of months back I asked you about baystar steering. I finally pulled the trigger and bought the steering and a bimini top. The difference is like night and day. It was so easy to install I was afraid I did something wrong. You dont realize how hard that mechanical steering is until you replace it with the hydraulic steering.


Hello all, this question is for Joebucko or prod1944. Do you have to modify the console much if at all for the Baystar helm? Thanks.


----------



## joebucko

FlatsCatFL said:


> Hello all, this question is for Joebucko or prod1944. Do you have to modify the console much if at all for the Baystar helm? Thanks.


FlatsCatFl
I don't remember having to modify the console at all. Also, it was not in the installation instructions but I did make a circular backing plate for the hydraulic helm to be placed on the inside of the console.


----------



## gdavis

Ok so I searched through this but didn't see the end result from anyone that had the problem. My dads Mako 17 Pro Skiff is having tach problems. The tach reads 900-1100 at idle and when the key is turned off. The tach never goes below 900 rpms. I looked at some other forums and they say that if you're putting the boat in gear while idling at 900-1100 rpms the gear case won't last long due to wear and tear. I feel like the tach used to drop all the way down to zero when the boat was off or we were just sitting there in the water. My question is, for those of you with the high idle tach problems, what was the fix? How did you solve the problem? Did you take it in to the dealer or was the fix simple and easy?


----------



## GULF COAST FISHERMAN

Does anyone know the difference between the 2016 and 2017 Pro 17 Skiff CC? Thanks!


----------



## symmranch

Well, I have joined the crowd and I will be taking delivery of my Pro Skiff 17 next week Thursday. If anyone fishes Rockport regularly, let me know and we can meet up.


----------



## Ecto1

Picked up my boat yesterday and took her out for a couple of hours this morning in to break in the engine. Love it lots will post some pics of the 19 with my set up later this week.


----------



## Ecto1

Need help yesterday when in about 3 foot of water I hit some mud. What is the best way to go through water this shallow when needed. I tilted up and went through slow. Still learning a ton and any advice is appreciated.


----------



## joebucko

Ecto1 said:


> Need help yesterday when in about 3 foot of water I hit some mud. What is the best way to go through water this shallow when needed. I tilted up and went through slow. Still learning a ton and any advice is appreciated.


Every new boat owner has to go through the learning process like:
1. Forgetting to put the plug in.
2. Forgetting to remove all the straps securing the boat to the trailer when launching.
3. Forgetting that the boat is loose on the trailer and launching then watching your boat float away.
4. Getting stuck in the mud.
5. Running out of gas.

Too many to list here but you will experience them all if you boat long enough.

In this particular case the water must have been more shallow than 3ft. With engine trimmed up you should have been able to idle through. At idle speed with engine trimmed I'd bet your boat would go in about 2ft of water. Anything more shallow than that and the engine would need to be tilted completely out of the water and you would need to paddle/pole through .


----------



## prod1944

Good afternoon FlatsCatFl,

You will have to drill four holes using the template they provide. Start with a smaller bit. The holes will be close to the edge of the existing 3 inch hole for the helm. There is a piece of starboard behind the old helm. Use that as your backing and you will drill through that piece too for the new helm. Removal of the old cable at the motor is very tight at the motor end. I cut the cable and it pulled right out. The rest is easy. Should have help pulling the old cable out, pulling the new hoses through and bleeding the system.


----------



## Ecto1

Here are some pics of my 19 pro skiff


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*Baystar steering upgrade*

Thanks JB and prod1944 for the info on replacing the OEM steering system!


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*new 19 Pro Skiff*

Ecto1, congrats on the new skiff. The 19 will fit your family well. Enjoy...tight lines!


----------



## mako17chd

*Spark Plug Change*

Need a little help here, friends. I thought changing the spark plugs on the Merc 60 would be a piece of cake, but I apparently made a misstep somewhere. After starting the engine on new spark plugs (Champion RA8HC) the idle was rough and the motor was sputtering. I compared the gapping and noted a larger gap on the old plugs than the new. Ok, i don't have a spark plug gapper, so i replaced the old plugs in the motor just until i can get the correct new plugs. When i started the motor, same thing, rough idle and sputtering (coughing). All i can think is I accidentally switched a couple of the spark plug wires. Problem is i can't find a diagram of the proper order. Can one of you guys take a look under your cowl and tell me the plug order? The wires come off of two modules with numbers 2 and 3 on the top and 1 and 4 on the bottom. Just need the plug order on the engine coming off of these from top to bottom. Thanks!!


----------



## joebucko

gdavis said:


> Ok so I searched through this but didn't see the end result from anyone that had the problem. My dads Mako 17 Pro Skiff is having tach problems. The tach reads 900-1100 at idle and when the key is turned off. The tach never goes below 900 rpms. I looked at some other forums and they say that if you're putting the boat in gear while idling at 900-1100 rpms the gear case won't last long due to wear and tear. I feel like the tach used to drop all the way down to zero when the boat was off or we were just sitting there in the water. My question is, for those of you with the high idle tach problems, what was the fix? How did you solve the problem? Did you take it in to the dealer or was the fix simple and easy?


Sorry for the late reply but I just remembered to look at mine this morning. My tach reads 900 when off and it idles about 900 as well. My engine is 4 years old and it has always idled at this speed and I have yet to damage anything. At this point I'd say its NORMAL.


----------



## prod1944

gdavis. My engine and tach operate the same as joebucko and always has. I have 180 hours and no problems.


----------



## Donkeykongbk

I'm new to this forum but have gotten a lot of info from here. So I thought I'd add my boat. I've had my pro skiff 17 for just about a year and couldn't be happier. Just swapped out the cooler seat for a leaning post. And just installed a sea dek helm mat.


----------



## Donkeykongbk

Not sure why pic is sideways


----------



## Donkeykongbk

Came out nice


----------



## joebucko

Donkeykongbk
I like the leaning post and mat. How wide is the leaning post and how is it secured to the deck?


----------



## joebucko

Donkeykongbk
I like the leaning post and mat. How wide is the leaning post and how is it secured to the deck?


----------



## ADrummer2278

Ecto1 looks great! I have had mine for a few months and am enjoying it. My biggest concern is getting the trolling mototrs! iread NOTHING but BAD reviews on almost every single one! How is your Motor Guide holding up ? Which model did you get?


----------



## Puffwheat

*New to the forum*

I am expecting a call any day from BP to come pick up my new 17 PS
Want to thank all of you for the great info and pictures. I have ordered my boat with the riptide trolling motor and would wonder if anyone knows if it will be compatible with I-pilot?
Thanks


----------



## Ecto1

ADrummer2278 said:


> Ecto1 looks great! I have had mine for a few months and am enjoying it. My biggest concern is getting the trolling mototrs! iread NOTHING but BAD reviews on almost every single one! How is your Motor Guide holding up ? Which model did you get?


So far i Love the Motor Guide and I use it all day long when I am on the water. It is super quite and i can get it in and out of the water in a flash. If I could change one thing it would be the remote. It is a little on the big side and it takes several trips before you get things down. I went with the Xi5 and when you hit anchor you are not going to move but a few feet left to right. This has been the best thing we have done to the boat. We have had some great catches with it too.


----------



## ADrummer2278

excellent! Thank you!! I am sure you take care of it and that I believe is the biggest part!:dance:


----------



## Ecto1

Anyone have trouble with the trailer lights? I have one full of water and it won't work now.


----------



## joebucko

Ecto1 said:


> Anyone have trouble with the trailer lights? I have one full of water and it won't work now.


Initially I had trouble with my lights. One did fill with water and I was regularly blowing bulbs. I started unplugging my trailer lights before I backed down the ramp and all of my problems went away. I think they call it thermal shock when the hot tail light bulbs contact the cool/cold water. I also drilled some small holes inside the trailer light housing to allow any accumulated water to drain out. All my lights now work and I have not changed a bulb in probably two years.


----------



## Ecto1

Ok next question is the live well. If I keep my love well on it will overflow am I suppose to not have the plug in?


----------



## johnsons1480

Ecto1 said:


> Ok next question is the live well. If I keep my love well on it will overflow am I suppose to not have the plug in?


I've been wondering the same thing. As far as I can tell, if you're planing, the live well will fill up from the hole on the starboard side. As long as the live well switch is off, the water wont go above the drain level in the back of the well. If you're not planing, then you can cut on the switch to circulate the water and it will drain out of the back drain hole. If you have the switch on and you're planing, then it will overflow. I have a 19', so I could be wrong about your model and I could also be wrong over all lol


----------



## Ecto1

johnsons1480 said:


> I've been wondering the same thing. As far as I can tell, if you're planing, the live well will fill up from the hole on the starboard side. As long as the live well switch is off, the water wont go above the drain level in the back of the well. If you're not planing, then you can cut on the switch to circulate the water and it will drain out of the back drain hole. If you have the switch on and you're planing, then it will overflow. I have a 19', so I could be wrong about your model and I could also be wrong over all lol


I have the 19 as well will try that this weekend.


----------



## ADrummer2278

I have a question to those who have installed their own fish finders...How did you feed the cable through the under deck channel? I had bass pro install mine and then the screen is damaged and Garmin will replace it but I have to send the entire fish finder back, cables and all...I went to pull the cables out from under the console and it doesn't budge AT ALL...how in the world did they feed this through? Do you need to remove the black rubber gaskets first? Thanks for any help!


----------



## joebucko

ADrummer2278 said:


> I have a question to those who have installed their own fish finders...How did you feed the cable through the under deck channel? I had bass pro install mine and then the screen is damaged and Garmin will replace it but I have to send the entire fish finder back, cables and all...I went to pull the cables out from under the console and it doesn't budge AT ALL...how in the world did they feed this through? Do you need to remove the black rubber gaskets first? Thanks for any help!


It can be a real PITA. The wiring race/tube is pretty crowded thus very tight. On my Pro17 I did have to unscrew the black rubber gasket under the console then work with the cables involved to get my transducer cables freed up. 
Before you pull the cable out through the stern end of the tube be sure and securely tie a long piece of cord to the end under the console so you have messenger in place when you need to fish your replacement cable(s) back through the tube to the console. Paracord works great.


----------



## ADrummer2278

joebucko said:


> It can be a real PITA. The wiring race/tube is pretty crowded thus very tight. On my Pro17 I did have to unscrew the black rubber gasket under the console then work with the cables involved to get my transducer cables freed up.
> Before you pull the cable out through the stern end of the tube be sure and securely tie a long piece of cord to the end under the console so you have messenger in place when you need to fish your replacement cable(s) back through the tube to the console. Paracord works great.


excellent! Thank you! i will remove the rubber pieces! I do have the paracord ready! I just couldnt get the cable to move at all! Thank you so much


----------



## panhandlekelly

After a floundering trip the other night, I pulled my boat up to the wash rack and hosed it down. Shortly after washing the boat and having a conversation with a friend, the motor on my 2013 Skiff started to raise up on it's own. Thinking the problem was with the trim switch on the motor, I disconnected it hoping to get home and address the problem later. After several minutes the motor started to raise on it's own again. This time I just disconnected the battery and went home. I "think" the problem is moisture in the throttle handle switch. Anyone ever experience this issue and if so how did you solve the problem if this is the issue with the self trimming motor.


----------



## waterbabie

*Hydraulic steering*

Thinking about buying a mako 17ft skiff. Should I get the Hydraulic Steering option.
I read it was hard to steer.


----------



## joebucko

waterbabie said:


> Thinking about buying a mako 17ft skiff. Should I get the Hydraulic Steering option.
> I read it was hard to steer.


Mine was hard to steer so after owning it three years I changed the steering to hydraulic. You can certainly get by with the standard mechanical steering and how the motor is trimmed while on plane makes a big difference but I'm glad I switched to hydraulic.


----------



## waterbabie

Thanks, I will go with the hydraulic steering.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

waterbabie said:


> Thanks, I will go with the hydraulic steering.


I recently upgraded my 17 skiff steering to the Baystar hydraulic system. While not one finger turnable, it is certainly easier to rotate than the OEM. If you routinely stand at your helm, you might consider the tilting helm for better ergonomics.


----------



## joebucko

waterbabie said:


> Thanks, I will go with the hydraulic steering.


I used the Baystar hydraulic system like FlatsCatFl. UFLEX also makes a very good small engine hydraulic system.

I talked to Baystar technical support after installation and they told me that if I wanted even easier steering I could change out the 1/4" hoses to SeaStar 5/16" pre-made hoses. Larger diameter means more hydraulic fluid flowing through the system = easier steering. That would cost about $120 more to do.

You can also replace the 13" steering wheel with a 15" to make it even easier.


----------



## jbuchanan

*Trailer Boat Width*

I have seen where a lot of people have mentioned the overall storage lengths of this boat at 20' with swing away tongue, motor trimmed down and turned. What I was wondering is what is the width for storage reasons. Does any know the width from outside edges of tires?

I have recently relocated up to DFW area and will have to sell my current boat and downsize slightly to fit a single bay garage door.

Thanks in advance and apologize if I overlooked where someone has already answered this question.


----------



## rgourley11

Have to get a measurement on it. I have the Pro17 with the swing away tongue. It fits in my garage if the motor is trimmed down with no problem and still get my wifes Tahoe in there


----------



## jbuchanan

rgourley11 said:


> Have to get a measurement on it. I have the Pro17 with the swing away tongue. It fits in my garage if the motor is trimmed down with no problem and still get my wifes Tahoe in there


Thanks rgourley11
I was up at Bass Pro yesterday afternoon looking at the 17' and should have went and got the tape measure out of the vehicle, but forgot till I got home. I don't have any concerns in it fitting depth wise with the swing away tongue, but width I do.
I was looking to get a boat to fit in the single bay side of 3 car garage. It is a 8' wide door but with the trim work and such after door is installed it really is only like 7'-8"ish in width.


----------



## SnookHunter

I added Guide poles to my trailer and have a total width of 7ft 7 inches.


----------



## jbuchanan

SnookHunter said:


> I added Guide poles to my trailer and have a total width of 7ft 7 inches.


That is good to know with the guide pools. I was thinking those might be rather helpful on these skiffs esp on the cross wind days at ramps. I think 7'-7" would work for me. Might just have to remove some trimming on bottom 3-4ft of the garage....


----------



## yeocokent

ADrummer2278 said:


> excellent! Thank you! i will remove the rubber pieces! I do have the paracord ready! I just couldnt get the cable to move at all! Thank you so much


I used a fish tape, pretty heavy one. Start from the back. tape the duce cable plug to the tape really good with black electrical tape so it is in the shape of a torpedo. Apply dish detergent. Take off boot in console. Start pushing hard from the back. When you meet resistance start pulling back and pushing forward till you break through. I have done a few this way. I tried pulling through with a wire but couldn't get one through that way. Good luck.


----------



## luisjg1

I am going to buy me one of these skiffs for my flats fishing need,, what da heck!


----------



## Missed Again

*New Pro 17 in the future?*

I will soon get a new boat for fishing and the Mako Pro Skiff 17 CC is on a very short list. What I had was a 1655 DLX Carolina Skiff, the biggest problem with it was moving from aft to bow around the center console. Just not enough foot space for a clumsy old man. Would one of you owners of a Pro 17 please tell me how many inches does this boat have between the console and gunwale. Also is there a go to person at the factory for this boat with which one can speak to ask about custom outfitting? Thank you for your time and efforts, looking toward hearing from some owners.


----------



## atexan

Missed Again said:


> Would one of you owners of a Pro 17 please tell me how many inches does this boat have between the console and gunwale. Also is there a go to person at the factory for this boat with which one can speak to ask about custom outfitting?


I would highly recommend visiting your closest Bass Pro Shops for a climb in and see how it feels session. That's exactly what I did before buying. Also Bass Pro handled all of my rigging (TR, Bimini, etc) right there at the location. I am sure I could have shopped around but it wasn't worth the time to me.


----------



## jr fla

Hello all. I found this thread by googling "mako 17 pro skiff reviews". Although I've only read the first 100 pages I can tell there's lots of good stuff here in the almost 300 pages. 

Anyway, without having to read all the pages, and I apologize if this has been asked more than once, has anyone besides the thread originator installed a Fulton swing-tongue kit on an all aluminum trailer? The wife wants to park her car in the garage again and the only way I can accommodate her is to install the swing-tongue. If anyone has done this I would greatly appreciate any input, comments, feedback, suggestions, do's or don'ts, or issues/problems/failures. 

Thanks in advance.

jr in Palm Bay, FL


----------



## stang33331

jr fla said:


> Hello all. I found this thread by googling "mako 17 pro skiff reviews". Although I've only read the first 100 pages I can tell there's lots of good stuff here in the almost 300 pages.
> 
> Anyway, without having to read all the pages, and I apologize if this has been asked more than once, has anyone besides the thread originator installed a Fulton swing-tongue kit on an all aluminum trailer? The wife wants to park her car in the garage again and the only way I can accommodate her is to install the swing-tongue. If anyone has done this I would greatly appreciate any input, comments, feedback, suggestions, do's or don'ts, or issues/problems/failures.
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> jr in Palm Bay, FL


I have swing tongue came with the original trailer. I don't know if it is Fulton or not. It works great. I have a 2 car garage. I have the boat and a SUV parked in the garage.


----------



## stang33331

This is what I have.


----------



## hwkav8r

I'm doing a little wiring work on my 2016 pro skiff 17. Does anyone know how these boats are constructed, specifically the channel from the aft end going into the console? Is is an actual channel or is there just space between the deck and bottom of the boat? As I am running wires up to the console, I find that there is water in the channel, I'm curious if the water is contained or is all over between the deck and bottom. 

I'm adding a second battery, a four way battery switch, battery tender. Pics after I'm done.


----------



## Kevin Nicholls

Has anyone installed a leaning post on their skiff. If so how did you attach if to the deck. The deck seems like a thin liner and then foam. I installed a flip flop seat and the screws pulled out and didn't hold. Any advice on this? Thanks, Kevin.


----------



## waterbabie

Does anyone have the forward and aft grab rails and can post pictures.
I'm thinking about getting them but would like to see them first


----------



## joebucko

Kevin Nicholls said:


> Has anyone installed a leaning post on their skiff. If so how did you attach if to the deck. The deck seems like a thin liner and then foam. I installed a flip flop seat and the screws pulled out and didn't hold. Any advice on this? Thanks, Kevin.


Kevin,
JONC installed a leaning post in his ProSkiff in early 2014. You might want to check with him to see how its doing. Here is a link to his original post:
http://2coolfishing.com/ttmbforum/showthread.php?p=8593770#post8593770
I believe its on page 131 of this thread.


----------



## hwkav8r

*2nd Battery/Charger/4 way switch install*

Completed first mod. Added a second dual purpose battery in the console, added a NOCO onboard charger/tender to the port side gunwale and added a blue seas M 6007 four way battery switch and a NOCO charger plug in installed on a piece of starboard in front of livewell.

Anyone know how to rotate images in this forum?

Chad


----------



## Kevin Nicholls

Thanks Joe. I sent him a PM.


----------



## hwkav8r

*Max load/cavitation*

I went out today with 5 people, and quite a bit of gear. Wasn't going fishing, just using the boat as a ride to the beach. I've never had that much weight in the boat before. The prop sounded like it was cavitating until we got up on plane; is that a common issue with a lot of weight in a boat? This is the smallest boat I've ever owned and have never really had to give much thought to weight. Any comments are appreciated. 
Chad


----------



## yeocokent

njgradywhite said:


> Also digging the console cover for it


Hay NJ Grady, I know this post i kind of old but I was searching for a decent cc cover for my pro skiff. I am curious where you purchased your cc cover? Did you get it from the dealer? I can't find a decent cc cover anywhere on the net including the tracker/mako website.


----------



## njgradywhite

yeocokent said:


> Hay NJ Grady, I know this post i kind of old but I was searching for a decent cc cover for my pro skiff. I am curious where you purchased your cc cover? Did you get it from the dealer? I can't find a decent cc cover anywhere on the net including the tracker/mako website.


Yep! Got it directly from the deal. The boat is 3 years old and the cover is holding up OK. Has some small holes but nothing bad and I patched them up.


----------



## yeocokent

njgradywhite said:


> Yep! Got it directly from the deal. The boat is 3 years old and the cover is holding up OK. Has some small holes but nothing bad and I patched them up.


Thanks! I put a Boss gauge stereo in the dash and want to make sure I keep any rain off of it. Like you, I bottom painted mine and keep it in the water. She's in the water from March/April to January.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*Prop Ventilation*



hwkav8r said:


> I went out today with 5 people, and quite a bit of gear. Wasn't going fishing, just using the boat as a ride to the beach. I've never had that much weight in the boat before. The prop sounded like it was cavitating until we got up on plane; is that a common issue with a lot of weight in a boat? This is the smallest boat I've ever owned and have never really had to give much thought to weight. Any comments are appreciated.
> Chad


I've noticed the same phenomena with my '13 17'. The 4 blade prop I recently installed has helped some. I think it has something to do with the hull design at the stern....maybe creating to much turbulence for positive prop grip.


----------



## joebucko

*Mako Pro 17 Skiff repowered with Mercury 75 4stroke*

Just wondering if anyone has repowered their Mako Pro17 with a new mercury 75hp 4 stroke? I know that the boat is only rated for 60hp max and that the new Mercury75 will add about 100lbs to the stern but just wondered if anyone has done it.

What got me thinking about it was a ride I took in my friends new Tracker Pro Team 175 TWX equipped with the 75Hp merc. His boat is just about identical in size to the Proskiff 17 and weighs about the same. Top end on his 175twx is about 45 with this engine. Looking at his 175 twx/75hpmerc it looks slightly stern heavy but it has an excellent hole shot and ride. I suspect a Pro17 would have a similar stern heavy look if you added 100lbs to the stern.


----------



## symmranch

Anyone have an idea on the current resale value of a 2016 17 foot Mako? Have outgrown mine and looking to possibly get rid of it sadly.
Thanks in advance!


----------



## loyd63

Winters97gt what prop did you have on here and what was your top speed in this video?



Winters97gt said:


> Ahh, not HD. Need wifi, will try later.
> 
> I'd still like to get the water out if the hull, move the battery forward and hang a 90 etec on this sucker and have an awesome hole shot and probably hit 45mph.


----------



## joebucko

loyd63 said:


> Winters97gt what prop did you have on here and what was your top speed in this video?


I am not sure Winters97 is on this board any more since he sold his boat. I know he was running the Mercury Vengeance 13" pitch stainless steel prop in all of his postings.


----------



## loyd63

*WOW 275 pages!!....new guy here*

275 pages !!!, took me a week to read it! Lots of good guys here I see,,, and a lot of good info. 
Last week I purchased my 2012 Mako 17 Pro Skiff used, has been sitting, so my first job was impeller, dang thang took me 2 hours to get the shift linkage splines to line back up and then serviced the motor and grease zerks,,, then on to buffing it out.
Next chore - Bought a 24v Minn Kota Power drive from a friend and installed it, (HA this is gonna be a learning process) ran wires, installed batteries and time to go test drive it.. First thing i didn't like was the front of the boat hanging up on the roller when trying to launch, I gotta change this, i don't like the pressure the roller puts on the front of the boat anyway, it bows the fiberglass in. 
Next , out to the lake, planed out fast and flat, throttle to WOT- trimmed up, porpoised a lot, pretty much uncontrollably , looked at my gps on my phone and was running 32 mph, looked at the tach - 5200 rpm. after some of the reading i learned about Joebucko. so i messaged him about the prop (He's been a big help, Thanks Joe) and i'm way over propped, with a 4 blade 10.1 x 15. Just too much for my boat. 
Went on to test the bilge pump and aerator, of course the aerator is a problem, it didn't start working until i stopped, then leaks from under the console, the hose fitting on the bottom of the livewell was broke, bad design if you ask me. I replaced that. 
Loaded back up and went home to work on the Ice chest/seat (loose) took it out cleaned the floor and when i was drilling the holes i went thru the floor and about 1/2" under the floor was something else fairly thick, i just knew the bottom couldn't be that close so i drilled on thru it,,, siliconed the base put new stainless screws, OK That's fixed,, So i thought to my self,, I better look at the bottom of the boat and make sure i didn't drill thru the hull, good news is no i didn't, bad news is the axle and springs were shot!! eat up with rust to the point of it flaking apart, and this is a fresh water boat.. after making calls for 3 hours couldn't find any replacement parts that are exact replacements , finally found someone who says they could build my axle and had the springs,, we'll see about that next week. 
Next add on, is a hydro foil (came in today) and raise the motor and get a dang prop !!
So i've been reading this thread all week and have learned a lot!! I'm not new to boats but i'm new to this boat and its really GREAT to have you guys here sharing your experiences and skills. As a fresh owner , We really appreciate it.!!!


----------



## loyd63

*Motor Height*

Can someone tell me if this is the factory motor height, was wanting to move it up a couple holes after reading some if this forum. Its porpoising real bad on trim. it does have a hydrofoil on it.


----------



## Kevin Nicholls

Same as mine, second from the top.


----------



## loyd63

*Transducer location*

Wondering if any of you guys have mounted a Garmin GT52 transducer on the Mako 17 PS, transducer goes with a Garmin striker 7sv. pictures would help. thanks


----------



## njgradywhite

Another season is about to start and freshened up the bottle paint. Good as new!


----------



## mworthan

*My Pro Skiff 17*

Hey Guys,
Owned this Plain Jane since 2013 bought new at BP. Used very little in N GA. Got relocated to Savannah for work and bought a place just N of Darien, about 10 minutes from Blue N Hall. Been in the water down here for the first time last week, low tide putt-putt to learn the sand bars and more next week as the low tide swings back around to afternoons. Besides the trolling motor all mods have been done in the past few months:
* Fishmaster T Top with Rod Holders, antenna mount (Digital 4 Ft)
* New Horizon 2200 VHF
* Electronics Box
* TACO Neptune leaning post with bag
* Fishmaster storage bag
* Riptide 55 with battery
* Cabela's Pro Mariner 3 bank charger 
* Add a Battery switch and house battery
* LED bars up front and in the back
* Smart Tabs cause I really screwed up the already stern heavy boat (haven't tried them out).
* Stainless rails along the sides for fender tie offs.
* Extra 3 gal emergency tank.


----------



## WishtoFish

Looking at a Pro 16 and was wondering how you check the fuel? Is there a gauge on the tank?


----------



## joebucko

WishtoFish said:


> Looking at a Pro 16 and was wondering how you check the fuel? Is there a gauge on the tank?


There is a gauge on the tank but these are usually not real accurate. I use an oak dowel with 6 notches corresponding to the 6 gallons in the tank. Stick it in the tank and instantly know how much fuel I have on board.


----------



## ADrummer2278

*Fuse help*

Hi all...I have a 2015 17ft. My lights and bilge and bait well wont cut on. I am assuming a fuse is possibly blown. The fishfinder comes on though so it is getting power...I am assuming its a fuse. I am out of town but will check when I get home. Where exactly is the fuse section on this boat? I tried to look quickly before I went out of town but did not see it. Im not really a mechanic but I can change a fuse. Thanks for any help.


----------



## Kevin Nicholls

mworthan I'm thinking about putting Smart Tabs on my Mako. So I gotta know, how are they working out for you? I fish pretty shallow and I'm looking to get up on plane with a little less bow rise. Also did you lose any top end after installing them? I tried a hydrofoil and lost about 5 mph and didn't get a lot of benefit from it so I looking into the Smart Tabs. Thanks, Kevin.


----------



## ImBatman

*Deck Mounting*



Kevin Nicholls said:


> Has anyone installed a leaning post on their skiff. If so how did you attach if to the deck. The deck seems like a thin liner and then foam. I installed a flip flop seat and the screws pulled out and didn't hold. Any advice on this? Thanks, Kevin.


Kevin, have you found any info about this. I am working on a seat mod but I'm going to need a couple of mounting brackets on the deck. Any info would help. Thanks.


----------



## ImBatman

*Deck Mounting*



mworthan said:


> Hey Guys,
> Owned this Plain Jane since 2013 bought new at BP. Used very little in N GA. Got relocated to Savannah for work and bought a place just N of Darien, about 10 minutes from Blue N Hall. Been in the water down here for the first time last week, low tide putt-putt to learn the sand bars and more next week as the low tide swings back around to afternoons. Besides the trolling motor all mods have been done in the past few months:
> * Fishmaster T Top with Rod Holders, antenna mount (Digital 4 Ft)
> * New Horizon 2200 VHF
> * Electronics Box
> * TACO Neptune leaning post with bag
> * Fishmaster storage bag
> * Riptide 55 with battery
> * Cabela's Pro Mariner 3 bank charger
> * Add a Battery switch and house battery
> * LED bars up front and in the back
> * Smart Tabs cause I really screwed up the already stern heavy boat (haven't tried them out).
> * Stainless rails along the sides for fender tie offs.
> * Extra 3 gal emergency tank.


Did you install the t top and leaning post yourself? If so could you describe the process. I am working on a seat mod where I will need a couple of anchor points on the deck and I'm not exactly sure where to start. Thanks.


----------



## ImBatman

http://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bzt4bLvgkMaLQ2ZLQ2xYVjIzeGs

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bzt4bLvgkMaLdTdacG5yakxnZTg

On a trip with the wife to Ikea, I found this no drill, inexpensive storage solution for my Pro Skiff 17. Suction cups on these items hold like a beast. Perfect for trash, or to hold accessories. I am already thinking about other mods I am going to build with them. Spent about $15 for the pair, and they hold every bit as good as the set of $150 sea suckers I bought last seasons! http://m.ikea.com/us/en/search/â€¦


----------



## Kevin Nicholls

ImBatman said:


> Kevin, have you found any info about this. I am working on a seat mod but I'm going to need a couple of mounting brackets on the deck. Any info would help. Thanks.


I haven't had any replies on the leaning post mount. I've talked to some people about how to do it and they've recommended screws and 3M 5200 to mount it. It's a liner hull so your not going to get much bite with the screws. I'm told if you use 5200 you better mean it. It's permanent. Let me know if you find out anything different. Thanks, Kevin


----------



## mworthan

*T Top and Smart Tabs*

I think the first question was the smart tabs. They have definitely helped with getting on plane quicker but did affect top end but, so did adding the weight. I've only been out once more and it was a little rough with a flooding tide and wind so maybe next week I can get back out again. To answer the T top question, yes, did it myself after asking the guys at Fishmaster if I should install backing plates, inspection ports, etc. They assured me that if I used 5200 and the screws supplied following their directions, I won't have any problem. I did add extra bracing to be sure to the center console. Fishmaster's products are great and quality for a DIY is really outstanding. 
I'm still playing with weight distribution and definitely have something out of whack though it doesn't seem so if you do the math. Here on the GA coast we see a 8'-9' tide range and the ramps are not great. Can be dangerous at low tide with drop offs. Most use lifts to put in like at Blue N Hall. The stern eyes, being close together and the weight of the top so high makes the boat want to lean over when you life to port. I am going to relocate my trolling battery to port and if this fixes it, I'm going to say that it ain't fixed because that is way to sensitive to load and could be bad news when lifting in a sudden roll. On the water, I can't tell a thing. The only solution I can think of is to spread out my transom lift points but the transom beyond the immediate around around the OB is just glass and foam. I am looking at fabbing or mounting a bar on the inside of the transom, tied to the stern eyes or outboard bolts and using a threaded rod and eye bolt extending through the deck from the ends of the strut under the deck to spread the lifting points out as far as I can. Right now now stern eyes are maybe 16" apart? It's one aggravating aspect of having a transom that is only solid in a small area and I don't think the geometry was ever meant to make lifting safe if weight wasn't carefully watched. It literally can go from solid to roll over in the lift with very little weight shift.


----------



## mworthan

mworthan said:


> I think the first question was the smart tabs. They have definitely helped with getting on plane quicker but did affect top end but, so did adding the weight. I've only been out once more and it was a little rough with a flooding tide and wind so maybe next week I can get back out again. To answer the T top question, yes, did it myself after asking the guys at Fishmaster if I should install backing plates, inspection ports, etc. They assured me that if I used 5200 and the screws supplied following their directions, I won't have any problem. I did add extra bracing to be sure to the center console. Fishmaster's products are great and quality for a DIY is really outstanding.
> I'm still playing with weight distribution and definitely have something out of whack though it doesn't seem so if you do the math. Here on the GA coast we see a 8'-9' tide range and the ramps are not great. Can be dangerous at low tide with drop offs. Most use lifts to put in like at Blue N Hall. The stern eyes, being close together and the weight of the top so high makes the boat want to lean over when you life to port. I am going to relocate my trolling battery to port and if this fixes it, I'm going to say that it ain't fixed because that is way to sensitive to load and could be bad news when lifting in a sudden roll. On the water, I can't tell a thing. The only solution I can think of is to spread out my transom lift points but the transom beyond the immediate around around the OB is just glass and foam. I am looking at fabbing or mounting a bar on the inside of the transom, tied to the stern eyes or outboard bolts and using a threaded rod and eye bolt extending through the deck from the ends of the strut under the deck to spread the lifting points out as far as I can. Right now now stern eyes are maybe 16" apart? It's one aggravating aspect of having a transom that is only solid in a small area and I don't think the geometry was ever meant to make lifting safe if weight wasn't carefully watched. It literally can go from solid to roll over in the lift with very little weight shift.


Meant to say move my trolling battery to starboard.


----------



## KiteboarderDoug

Has anyone found a decent replacement seat cushion for the stock cooler on a 2013 Mako 17CC? Mine is cracking and Mako wants $130 for cushion.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

KiteboarderDoug said:


> Has anyone found a decent replacement seat cushion for the stock cooler on a 2013 Mako 17CC? Mine is cracking and Mako wants $130 for cushion.


KBD, check out Boslterbuddy.com. They don't have exact replica cushions but they do offer thicker cushions giving you some elevation.


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## joebucko

*Sold My Mako Pro17*

Sad to say but I sold my Mako Pro17 so I won't be frequenting this thread any more. It was a great boat for me and I loved tinkering with it but have moved on to something a little more age appropriate. I have a few props and rigging items I will be listing for sale if anyone is interested.


----------



## mworthan

*age appropriate*

Joebucko. Age appropriate = bigger?


----------



## joebucko

Bigger, faster, and a bit more comfortable. I fresh water fish for bass mostly so I bought a more conventional bass style boat.


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## mworthan

Understand completely. Its ok. I've tried to make it more than it is. Now that I have grandbabies, it seems small and really low. I think it may eventually find a new home as well. I need more boat.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

joebucko said:


> Sad to say but I sold my Mako Pro17 so I won't be frequenting this thread any more. It was a great boat for me and I loved tinkering with it but have moved on to something a little more age appropriate. I have a few props and rigging items I will be listing for sale if anyone is interested.


JB, thanks for all of the great info you have provided since 2012. There are quite a few of your mods i have incorporated in/on my skiff. Your mod DNA will continue to live on. Tight lines and good luck with whatever comes next!


----------



## Jasonalred

*Riptide to question*

For those that have installed a riptide 55# to with ipilot. Do you recommend the 48 or 54 inch shaft for saltwater bay fishing in Florida?


----------



## FlatsCatFL

Jasonalred said:


> For those that have installed a riptide 55# to with ipilot. Do you recommend the 48 or 54 inch shaft for saltwater bay fishing in Florida?


I have the 54" but would have bought the 48" if BP had it in stock. The 48" will give a lower profile, possibly decrease line snag issues etc.


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## Damion

I have that model.. big bummer is there is nowhere to put the extra gas tank.. I guess I will just modify the mounting and put the tanks side by side. Just bummer for weight balance.


----------



## Damion

*Bummer with the new location of livewell*



Carolinaguy said:


> Has anyone else seen the changes made on the 2016 model? I't looks like the may have fixed the livewell issues. Not sure if I like loosing that space though. The front seat is now just storage.


I actually wish the live well was somewhere else. I need to have the 2nd gas tank as I have almost ran out of fuel twice now. I will mount them side by side for now.. but the balance of the boat might be off when both tanks are full.


----------



## Damion

I might be interested on some items. Honestly, I have been following your specific threads for some time and they helped push me to buy the pro skiff. What accessories do you have that I might be able to put to good use?


----------



## Chase4556

mworthan said:


> Understand completely. Its ok. I've tried to make it more than it is. Now that I have grandbabies, it seems small and really low. I think it may eventually find a new home as well. I need more boat.


Good to see someone else from the GA coast on here. I'm up in Savannah, the Army brought me here after living the first 21 years of my life in TX. Been looking at the pro skiffs for a while.... just need to pull the trigger one day and get it. Problem is finding a dual purpose boat to keep the wife happy and be good to fish out of.


----------



## rgourley11

*fuel*



Damion said:


> I actually wish the live well was somewhere else. I need to have the 2nd gas tank as I have almost ran out of fuel twice now. I will mount them side by side for now.. but the balance of the boat might be off when both tanks are full.


I installed a 12 gal that has worked out great. Moved the battery to the middle and the 12 gal on the side.


----------



## CroakerChoker

Has anybody came up with a way to add cushion s for seating on the back casting deck. How do you think stadium seats would work?


----------



## Missed Again

Daimon, Would three three gallon tanks fit? What about filling live well for balance then empty it as gas is used?


----------



## Carp-enter

*Perfect timing*



joebucko said:


> Sad to say but I sold my Mako Pro17 so I won't be frequenting this thread any more. It was a great boat for me and I loved tinkering with it but have moved on to something a little more age appropriate. I have a few props and rigging items I will be listing for sale if anyone is interested.


So three weeks reading this board and hours pouring over boat info I finally decided to get the 17.... And Joe (one of the posters that really convinced me) has left for other waters. Then I must have picked a "stupid" user name and was unable to get registered to submit a reply. But! in the meantime I ordered and received the new '17 Pro 17 on Wednesday and hit the lake for break-in on Saturday. Great fun and the family approves. Can't wait to hit the bays POC or Rockport. Thanks everyone for the great info. Hope to have my own to share soon.


----------



## joebucko

Carp-enter said:


> So three weeks reading this board and hours pouring over boat info I finally decided to get the 17.... And Joe (one of the posters that really convinced me) has left for other waters. Then I must have picked a "stupid" user name and was unable to get registered to submit a reply. But! in the meantime I ordered and received the new '17 Pro 17 on Wednesday and hit the lake for break-in on Saturday. Great fun and the family approves. Can't wait to hit the bays POC or Rockport. Thanks everyone for the great info. Hope to have my own to share soon.


Good luck with your Mako. I hope you like yours as much as I liked mine.


----------



## Carp-enter

Thanks again JB. I'm sure going to try.

And, Does anyone know of a rod holder designed to mount in/on the bimini top mounting rails? Sure seems like an easy way to attach without drilling thru the rear deck or gunnels.


----------



## joebucko

Carp-enter said:


> Thanks again JB. I'm sure going to try.
> 
> And, Does anyone know of a rod holder designed to mount in/on the bimini top mounting rails? Sure seems like an easy way to attach without drilling thru the rear deck or gunnels.


What is the diameter of your Bimini top rails?


----------



## Carp-enter

Wasn't thinking about attaching them to the rails. I guess I meant the tracks that the rails mount to. If I remove the top or leave it down I thought that would be a great place to mount the rod holder without drilling into the boat.


----------



## SnookHunter

rgourley11 said:


> I installed a 12 gal that has worked out great. Moved the battery to the middle and the 12 gal on the side.


What brand of gas tank did you get that fit? I got a 12gal one from Bass Pro near me and it expands and puts to much pressure on the deck, and it is a pain to try to get to the cap.

thanks


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## yeocokent

I was heading out the other night and the motor started hesitating and went in limp mode with the warning beeps. I am getting 6 beeps. I have the 60 hp merc 4 stroke. Does anyone know what the 6 beeps represents?


----------



## joebucko

yeocokent said:


> I was heading out the other night and the motor started hesitating and went in limp mode with the warning beeps. I am getting 6 beeps. I have the 60 hp merc 4 stroke. Does anyone know what the 6 beeps represents?


I don't know what the trouble code (6 beeps) means but for future reference this info may help someone.

Mercury has a product they call Vessel View Mobile. It is a small bluetooth interface module that plugs into your engine's diagnostic port, then mounts under the cowling and transmits information to an App on your smartphone. You don't need any fancy add on gauges just your smartphone and it will transmit real time a number of key pieces of information depending on your engine model. Stuff like RPMs, Fuel consumption, engine temperature, Engine hours, TROUBLE CODES and other useful information.

Supposedly if you get a fault/trouble code this information should be displayed on your smartphone along with a plain English explanation and some indication of severity (stop and take to a dealer immediately or it can wait until your next regular service).

I don't know how well the trouble code diagnostics work but I just added this module to my Mercury 115 Pro XS(very easy install) and instantly I got the GPS speed, RPM, Engine temp, Actual engine hours, and some other data.

Once catch is that the engine must be running to display the information so if your engine won't start this probably won't help.

The Vessel View Mobile retails for $275 and the App is free for either iPhone or Android.


----------



## yeocokent

joebucko said:


> I don't know what the trouble code (6 beeps) means but for future reference this info may help someone.
> 
> Mercury has a product they call Vessel View Mobile. It is a small bluetooth interface module that plugs into your engine's diagnostic port, then mounts under the cowling and transmits information to an App on your smartphone. You don't need any fancy add on gauges just your smartphone and it will transmit real time a number of key pieces of information depending on your engine model. Stuff like RPMs, Fuel consumption, engine temperature, Engine hours, TROUBLE CODES and other useful information.
> 
> Supposedly if you get a fault/trouble code this information should be displayed on your smartphone along with a plain English explanation and some indication of severity (stop and take to a dealer immediately or it can wait until your next regular service).
> 
> I don't know how well the trouble code diagnostics work but I just added this module to my Mercury 115 Pro XS(very easy install) and instantly I got the GPS speed, RPM, Engine temp, Actual engine hours, and some other data.
> 
> Once catch is that the engine must be running to display the information so if your engine won't start this probably won't help.
> 
> The Vessel View Mobile retails for $275 and the App is free for either iPhone or Android.


Thanks that looks pretty cool. I checked my manual and the 6 intermittent beeps signals a non critical issue. Motor is still going into limp mode though. Likely a bad sensor or something. I am going to get it in to dealer this time but will definitely download that app for future.


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## oznog715

I just got my 2017 17' Mako, and very happy with the purchase. We ordered it with the rails from the factory, so it took a while for the boat to be delivered and decided on buying the Vessel View when we picked it up. We took it to a local lake to break in the motor and I noticed a very large difference between what the tac showed and what the app showed, well over 1000 rpms at wide out, and the first hour 3500 tac was showing 2800 on the app. It was not cheap, but it gives a lot of information that I thought may be really useful.
The funny thing was that we met another Mako 17 Pro on the water, lol! I never thought I'd see another one in Colorado. Center console skiffs are not very common here,
Thanks for all the past posts, it convinced me and my family this would be a perfect boat for us! Future plans are install the hummingbird and motorguide troller, as well as a good ladder. I also need to cut out the joebucko wedge for the transducer.


----------



## atexan

joebucko said:


> The Vessel View Mobile retails for $275 and the App is free for either iPhone or Android.


Darn it Joe! That's something else I can't live without.


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## joebucko

atexan said:


> Darn it Joe! That's something else I can't live without.


Sorry but if I didn't tell you about it you'd be mad.


----------



## atexan

oznog715 said:


> I just got my 2017 17' Mako, and very happy with the purchase. ........


congrats on your fine purchase. I am on my 3rd summer with my 17' and i could not be happier.

Make sure you read all of Joe's posts and helpful hints. Worth the time.


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## Carp-enter

oznog715 said:


> I just got my 2017 17' Mako, and very happy with the purchase.
> 
> Congrats, I hope you enjoy. What part of Colorado? I picked mine up on the 14th down here in San Antonio and broke it in on local lake on Father's day weekend. Took my 10 yr old to POC this last weekend and had a great time. Plus he caught some trophy trout and a 25" red that I soon let flip from my grasp onto the bow deck of the Mako and watched as it went back into the bay while hearing my son's voice yelling that I better not lose his first red fish!!.... I still feel horrible but at least we got his pictures first. Really all the credit for the fish should go to our fabulous guide Capt. Joe Richard who was accommodating to use our boat and put up with a noob boat owner. Either way the memories are great and we look forward to many more adventures. Also, be sure and get the i-pilot on the troll motor. It's amazing.


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## oznog715

I'm in Greeley, about an hour north of Denver. We've ordered the Motorguide Xi5 and Hummingbird Elite 7 ti, so excited and nervous about getting it all together.


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## Carp-enter

I have Sister-in-law and husband just north of Denver. Maybe should haul the boat next time we visit.
Still working on learning the electronics and trolling motor, lucky to have a 10 yr old to help with that. LOL.
Attached some photos (will attempt anyway) of the POC trip.


----------



## oldebagdad

Quick hello! Got our PS17 little over a month ago. Basic so far, but still catches fish!! TM and Bimini after Blue Angel Week. Pics are from Father's Day, fishing with my brother and nephew. This is my first post, but you guys have helped me in more ways than you know - even before I was set on a Mako. More to come from - Olde Bagdad.


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## Carp-enter

Had the skiff down to Rockport today. No good on the fishing but had a good time with my son running all over looking for a bite. Boat ran well since dealer put new permanent clamps on the fuel line where it enters the motor. I was having problems with it cutting out when running at steady RPM. Ran down the intercoastal to Aransas Pass and back and kept getting a lot of grass caught on the lower unit which caused a side spray. Stopped a couple of times and raised the motor to drop the grass. Also noticed the guard over the live well pick-up is now being held on by only one screw. Not sure what could have caused this. Overall the boat handled great and the i-pilot on the minn-kota was perfect for fishing the flats.


----------



## Carp-enter

...Oh, and don't leave your tackle box sitting loose in the boat while flying down the highway. It may not be there when you arrive at your destination! And it sure adds an unexpected cost to your fishing trip!!:headknock


----------



## FX4_Mako17

Hey guys I finally registered after reading many pages on this thread and thought I would introduce myself.

Name is Luis and I am a very proud owner of a 2017 Mako Pro Skiff 17 I have had it for almost a year after buying it at Bass Pro. I haven't done many major mods to it but I am waiting to see what would be the best way to install a trolling motor and a LED light bar. I fish out of Arroyo City and Port Isabel 

Things I have done install trailer guides, Put in a Radio, and change the rear tie downs to a ratcheting style.

Some items I have had done in Service, Replace the rivets that hold the front seat down and a grounding wire that goes to motor anodes


----------



## Carp-enter

Welcome Luis. I'm actually a newer owner than you and can't help you on any mods yet because I ordered mine with TM, FF/GPS and Bimini. I did originally install a 2-bank onboard charger for the TM and order a cleat for the front which just arrived yesterday, so I will be adding that this weekend. 

My next mod will be a swim ladder once I find one that has over-the-rail grab handles to mount on the rear deck. Then probably some LED lighting. And, unfortunately I have to figure out how to reattach the cover over the live well pick-up since it was pulled loose somehow.

Which kind of trailer guides did you install? poles or carpeted bunks?


----------



## Carp-enter

Got the cleat installed. Not sure why this is not standard with the boat but it will come in very handy.


----------



## Mouse52

*Mako 17 ladder*

Bass Pro Shop in Pearland has a ladder designed for the Mako Pro Skiff 17. One of the guys on the forum helped design it so they started carrying it. Locally made and can get it from the boat rigging department. Cost was around $500. Not cheap but very well made.


----------



## Carp-enter

/\ /\ exactly what I was looking for. Thanks Mouse


----------



## Mouse52

I talked to them about mounting and they gave me some bolts for the upper section and screws for lower transom mounts. One word of caution from one of the installers is that there is an aluminum plate at the bottom of the transom so be careful with the screws. Make sure you have the proper size hole and don't over torque and twist off the screw. Glad he told me this.


----------



## oznog715

Mouse52- can you post a picture from the side? I think that ladder is exactly what I've been wanting!

I ran my transducer wire back and trolling motor wires up to the front last weekend, made an aluminum plate to mount my trolling motor (still needs to be finished), and attempt to press out a bracket to hold my transducer. When I get all the photos, I'll do a write up here about what you shouldn't do (lol) and what was successful for me.


----------



## yeocokent

I have to give Basspro/Tracker Ashland, VA a thumbs up. Had a the intermittent sensor go off. They got me in the shop a couple weeks later....on July 3. The mechanic diagnosed a bad injector. Instead of ordering a new injector and keeping me off the water he took one off of a new motor. In by 8 and out by 2 just in time to be out with all the crazies on the 4th! Oh, and everything was covered under warranty.


----------



## FX4_Mako17

Has anyone installed an LED light light bar? Deciding on either the grab bar or the front of the Bow


----------



## Mouse52

Ozng715 This is the best side picture of the ladder I have. I will get a better one when I have a chance.


----------



## atexan

Mouse52 said:


> Ozng715 This is the best side picture of the ladder I have. I will get a better one when I have a chance.


Thanks for the Pic - its on my Christmas list.


----------



## yeocokent

FX4_Mako17 said:


> Has anyone installed an LED light light bar? Deciding on either the grab bar or the front of the Bow


Mine is wired for it but I haven't actually installed the light bar yet. It was surprisingly very easy to snake wires under the deck from the console to the bow.


----------



## FX4_Mako17

yeocokent said:


> Mine is wired for it but I haven't actually installed the light bar yet. It was surprisingly very easy to snake wires under the deck from the console to the bow.


I was thinking well in the front I could get away with a 36-42" light bar but concerned on how to make the install look clean without having make to many holes. On the grab bar it would be a 12" light bar, clean install but much less light


----------



## oznog715

atexan said:


> Thanks for the Pic - its on my Christmas list.


Me too! Perfect side shot, I wanted to make sure it didn't angle to underneath the boat. Thanks Mouse52!


----------



## Mouse52

The ladder has a stop so when the lower step swings down it stays vertical and doesn't swing under the boat. Heavy gauge material. I am completely satisfied with it. Hope you get your Christmas wish!!


----------



## Zorro

*Second Impressions*

OK, so I am in the middle of my second season with my Pro Skiff 17, and overall - I love the boat. I have taken it into Peconic Bay and Long Island Sound, and a number of lakes in New Hampshire and Maine. It's been on smooth water and snotty water, and has handled everything pretty well. What have I added? - sea sucker rod holders on port and starboard sides, Hummingbird Helix 7 side view on a RAM mount, and a 2.5 gal. no-spill plastic gas can that fits perfectly between the live well and the battery. The boat came with side rails and fore/aft and console curtains. Very stable to fish from with 2-3 people.

What don't I like - trying to get water out after washing it down. If the ground or driveway is not level left to right, water will collect on the low side without draining - only solutions are to keep pushing it toward the stern drain over and over again, or to tow it up an incline and let it drain. I have a week's rental coming up in September, and the house has a dock. I want to keep it tied up, so I have been practicing snapping on my mooring cover from inside the boat and exiting through a remaining opening before snapping the final fasteners - way far from easy. If I could fix this issue, I'd have the perfect boat for my needs. :cloud::cloud:


----------



## Capt. AB

2814 Posts! Good grief, the Mako Skiff must be the most popular boat in the world.


----------



## favarcat

Mouse52 said:


> Bass Pro Shop in Pearland has a ladder designed for the . One of the guys on the forum helped design it so they started carrying it. Locally made and can get it from the boat rigging department. Cost was around $500. Not cheap but very well made.


We have a Mako Pro Skiff 16. Do you think this ladder would fit it. We use the boat mainly for recreation and need a good swim ladder.


----------



## Mouse52

I'm not sure how the transom angles are between the 17 and 16. This ladder was designed for the 17 and fits the contours of the boat perfect. Call the Bass Pro Shop Tracker in Pearland and ask for Brent in sales or Brian in service. They should be able to give an accurate answer. I did find the invoice and the ladder was $550 + tax so close to $600. Still a good deal for the quality and not being aggravated by a cheap ladder.


----------



## favarcat

Thanks, they could maybe match it up to a 16 if they have 1 in stock to see if it would work.

Having a hard time finding a good ladder. How is it mounted on the top? To thru bolt it on the 16, it would have to be about 10-12 inches in from the rub rail to bolt it thru the platform.


----------



## atexan

*Cooler Seat and my OCD*

So I really like the cooler seat that came with my Pro 17. What my OCD does not like is that it's mounted a wee bit crooked. Every time i get in the boat I impulsively try to straighten the cooler out. I pulled up one of the mounting/tie-down brackets expecting to find a course threaded screw that I could just relocate a inch or so from the existing hole. What I found is a fine thread SS screw that seems to be threading into a metal plate. It's hard to see.

Anyone know how this is assembled? Can I just drill a hole next to the existing holes? Will it thread?

Or is it a threaded insert? I have a hard time thinking it is. I am leaning more towards the factory install guy was too lazy to measure.


----------



## Carp-enter

Anyone installed smart tabs on their skiff? good idea?


----------



## saltymako16

*Wiring front to center*

Bought a used 2014 MAKO skiff 16 and LOVE it! Have made some alterations that I will post pictures of soon. My biggest question is getting my wiring from my 24vmotorguide to my HDS gen3. Currently have wiring running in the corner of the deck. I did however find the "hatch" cover that is WAY up front in the nose that covers where the winch eyelet is bolted in. It feels like there is a small cavity when I remove the cover that might facilitate pulling wires through. Easy enough to try with a fish tape. Has anyone tried this? Second question, id the front deck removable? sure looks like it. This wire pull would be 10X easier with the deck removed.

Thanks to everyone who has posted MODS on this thread!!


----------



## atexan

saltymako16 said:


> Bought a used 2014 MAKO skiff 16 and LOVE it! Have made some alterations that I will post pictures of soon. My biggest question is getting my wiring from my 24vmotorguide to my HDS gen3. Currently have wiring running in the corner of the deck. I did however find the "hatch" cover that is WAY up front in the nose that covers where the winch eyelet is bolted in. It feels like there is a small cavity when I remove the cover that might facilitate pulling wires through. Easy enough to try with a fish tape. Has anyone tried this? Second question, id the front deck removable? sure looks like it. This wire pull would be 10X easier with the deck removed.
> 
> Thanks to everyone who has posted MODS on this thread!!


Somewhere in the 50k pages of this post there are some pics of someone who was able to pull cable from the console to the front. I personally have not tried it myself but I believe it can be done.
Yes the front deck looks removable. That question has been posted before but I do not remember anyone posting that they actually removed it. My concern is what you would have to drill out / destroy to get the deck out and would you ever be able to put it back?


----------



## atcfisherman

OK, so I have noticed this thread has a zillion pages. Am I missing something or is this boat the #1 selling boat?


----------



## joebucko

I don't think it is the #1 selling boat. It was new in 2012 and has attracted a number of very satisfied owners.


----------



## atcfisherman

joebucko said:


> I don't think it is the #1 selling boat. It was new in 2012 and has attracted a number of very satisfied owners.


I was just wondering. No other thread that I've seen in the boating section has this many pages so I figured it must be an extremely popular boat.


----------



## fishingjordan

I'd love to buy a mako skiff if it had a tunnel.. hoping they will make one soon

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## FX4_Mako17

fishingjordan said:


> I'd love to buy a mako skiff if it had a tunnel.. hoping they will make one soon
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


That would make mine perfect for me. I've seen boaters take a flat bottom boat and have a tunnel molded in.


----------



## saltymako16

*deck removal*

atexan,

Noticed you were in Richmond. Hope you are making it through this storm OK. I am in North Spring.

I still have to figure out how to post pics on here but,.....on the underside of my front and back deck they are both held down with screwed in brackets (think L bracket that is about 4 inches wide) so there would be no drilling rivets.

Will go down the wire pull rabbit hole on the thread soon


----------



## atexan

saltymako16 said:


> atexan,
> 
> Noticed you were in Richmond. Hope you are making it through this storm OK. I am in North Spring.
> 
> I still have to figure out how to post pics on here but,.....on the underside of my front and back deck they are both held down with screwed in brackets (think L bracket that is about 4 inches wide) so there would be no drilling rivets.
> 
> Will go down the wire pull rabbit hole on the thread soon


Thanks for the concern. So far so good out here. It's the flooding that gets us. 
I use a imgur.com account to post my pics. You can also use the Tapatalk app.

Stay dry tell Harvey to blow off.


----------



## brianBFD

Greetings, new to the forum.
Just purchased a like new 2017 this past Friday.
I've only had it on the water twice but really like how stable this boat is. It came with electronics and a bimini.
So far the only thing I want to add is rod holders, 5 isn't quite enough. Just not sure where and how. Maybe there is something in this thread I can find.?.?


----------



## Carp-enter

Welcome Brian, I haven't been here long and also have a new 17. I was thinking the same and considering setting some into the rear deck that angle out toward each side. 
I'm sure you can find other ideas out of here, just use the thread search. Let me know what you work out. Good luck and tight lines.


----------



## brianBFD

I've done some searches and the only thing I've found is where a couple of folks have used Scotty rod holders on the fore and aft decks. I have Scotty products on my fishing kayaks and they make great products, but I was hoping for something other than deck mounts.


----------



## johnsons1480

brianBFD said:


> I've done some searches and the only thing I've found is where a couple of folks have used Scotty rod holders on the fore and aft decks. I have Scotty products on my fishing kayaks and they make great products, but I was hoping for something other than deck mounts.


If you don't need them immediately accessible, you can use the sea sucker rod holder. I use it on my 19' and like it for carrying the rods I probably won't, but just might, use.

http://www.basspro.com/shop/en/seas...ders?hvarAID=shopping_googleproductextensions

These may also be options for you

http://www.basspro.com/shop/en/seasucker-rod-holders?hvarAID=shopping_googleproductextensions

http://www.boatdepot.com/p-5485/6-r...E0mE7OCOcGkZmEY1fi-JIBnO1Y8tin-AaAtIYEALw_wcB


----------



## brianBFD

Those are excellent options, thank you very much.
I'm notorious for taking 5-6 rods and only using 2 or 3 of them. There have been times though where it was easier and quicker to just pick up another rod and keep on casting.


----------



## FlatsCatFL

*Mako Pro Skiff Mods Thread*



atexan said:


> Somewhere in the 50k pages of this post there are some pics of someone who was able to pull cable from the console to the front. I personally have not tried it myself but I believe it can be done.
> Yes the front deck looks removable. That question has been posted before but I do not remember anyone posting that they actually removed it. My concern is what you would have to drill out / destroy to get the deck out and would you ever be able to put it back?


Hello atexan,

Check out the thread as stated in "Title" above. Also check out page #259 on this thread for additional info about getting wire from the console to the front deck.

Here's hoping you're high and dry from Harvey. Tight lines!

FlatsCatFL


----------



## Carp-enter

brianBFD said:


> I've done some searches and the only thing I've found is where a couple of folks have used Scotty rod holders on the fore and aft decks. I have Scotty products on my fishing kayaks and they make great products, but I was hoping for something other than deck mounts.


I was thinking something like this.
http://www.basspro.com/shop/en/offshore-angler-stainless-steel-rod-holders


----------



## joebucko

Here are a couple of ideas for additional rod storage that I did when I had my Pro17. The stainless steel TACO rail mounted rod holders worked very well for both still fishing and trolling. The cooler attached rod holders did great for trolling one rod while storing the 2nd or just storing two additional rods. 
Here's a link showing the construction of the cooler mounted rod holders.
http://2coolfishing.com/ttmbforum/showthread.php?t=407563&highlight=rod+holder&page=166

When I sold my boat I kept both the Taco stainless steel rod holders and the cooler mounted ones. Let me know if you are interested in either/both sets as they are in like new condition.


----------



## DoorKicker

Hello fellow Mako Skiff owners. New owner and first post here. I have read most of this thread.
Was looking for the post about the owner/member that modified the handle on the transom and added a ladder.
Was that a part he bought, or had custom made?
Love this little boat and glad I found this thread.


----------



## Carp-enter

Welcome! Check post #1281. Might be what you're looking for.


----------



## Carp-enter

DoorKicker said:


> Hello fellow Mako Skiff owners. New owner and first post here. I have read most of this thread.
> Was looking for the post about the owner/member that modified the handle on the transom and added a ladder.
> Was that a part he bought, or had custom made?
> Love this little boat and glad I found this thread.


Sorry. It's post #2801


----------



## DoorKicker

Carp-enter said:


> Sorry. It's post #2801


Thanks, how do I find that post? what page is it on

Thanks


----------



## Carp-enter

I think it's 281. If you look in the top right corner of your post you will see the #


----------



## fishingjordan

Looking at buying one of these and a guy on here selling one claims a 10" deep holeshot. Does that sound possible? No jack plate either. I figured there's 15" of lower unit and a 8" draft would put hole shot near 2 ft. Anyone have numbers to compare? He has a 60hp

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Carp-enter

fishingjordan said:


> Looking at buying one of these and a guy on here selling one claims a 10" deep holeshot. Does that sound possible? No jack plate either. I figured there's 15" of lower unit and a 8" draft would put hole shot near 2 ft. Anyone have numbers to compare? He has a 60hp
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


I have shot out in 12" with just me and my 10yr old on the boat. Would prefer 16" to 24" but this little boat really doesn't rise much when taking off.


----------



## Kevin Nicholls

I resently put a Atlas micro jack plate on mine to try to run a little shallower. It did that but the off set gave me more bow rise when I took off. So I just put a set of the 40lb Smart Tabs on it and they did the trick. Almost eliminated any bow rise when I take off. I know mine will get up in a foot or less and run in a foot or so. The smart tabs really changed the way it performs for the better. I put the flip up adapters on there for shallow water drifting.


----------



## atexan

Kevin Nicholls said:


> I resently put a Atlas micro jack plate on mine to try to run a little shallower. It did that but the off set gave me more bow rise when I took off. So I just put a set of the 40lb Smart Tabs on it and they did the trick. Almost eliminated any bow rise when I take off. I know mine will get up in a foot or less and run in a foot or so. The smart tabs really changed the way it performs for the better. I put the flip up adapters on there for shallow water drifting.


Thanks Kevin. I was also. Considering smart tabs but didn't know what size.


----------



## ACflats

Hey guys, been reading this whole thread and I'm ready to purchase the 17/60 as my first boat.

Just a couple of things I would like to know.

What changes were made on the 2018 version? There is a discount going for the 2017 models and just want to see what my best option is.

I'm also thinking about the bimini top but i was wondering if it takes up too much space on the rear platform when it is down. Are you still able to fish comfortably with the top down?

Any other tips would be much appreciated.


----------



## rbrower

I recently purchased a 2017 Mako Pro Skiff 17 and compared it to a 2018 model...could not identify any differences and the dealer also stated there were no differences. I say take advantage of the discount on the 2017 and additionally avoid the $400 increase on the 2018 models. BTW....I love the boat!


----------



## atexan

ACflatsllm said:


> I'm also thinking about the bimini top but i was wondering if it takes up too much space on the rear platform when it is down. Are you still able to fish comfortably with the top down?.


I have a Bimini top on mine and it is easy to fish around when folded. Worth the time and money in my opinion.


----------



## Carp-enter

I'm also thinking about the bimini top but i was wondering if it takes up too much space on the rear platform when it is down. Are you still able to fish comfortably with the top down?

Any other tips would be much appreciated.[/QUOTE]

My '17 17 has been great fun. The bimini top is out of the way plus it's only two screws to remove if the wife is not going with us.


----------



## brianBFD

I have a 2017 model that I'm really happy with so far. I've fished off the back platform with the top down. I didn't care for it much, but I have size 13 feet too.

Have any of you replaced the cooler/seat behind the console? Perhaps installed a leaning seat? I'm also trying to decide where to mount additional rod holders, anyone added any?


----------



## prod1944

Carp-enter I installed my top so when in the down position it lays right on the edge of the front part of the rear deck. leaves plenty of space to cast from rear deck and legs fit between cooler seat and and deck. Depending on how tall the top is your rods may not sit in the rod holders of the console with the top up. I turned my cooler seat backwards so the lid opened up towards the console and then installed a three piece rod holder on the cooler facing the rear deck. It cleared the top. I also take a fish cooler with me that I sit on the hump on the floor, I installed four rod holders on that cooler and face them towards the front deck. I use a non slip mat under that cooler. It also clears the top. Hope this helps.


----------



## ranchonodinero

*Purchase questions*

Is it pretty typical to pay prep and freight? Are prices really not negotiable? I am comparing this boat to the Carolina skiff Jv17 and jvx17.


----------



## LitUp

*time to sell*

Good day fellow Mako skiff owners its time for me to sell my 2013 mako proskiff 17 cc 60hp merc and I wanted to get a feel from yall on how much I should be selling it for ?

It runs great has low engine hours and I was planning on leaving my riptide 80 with charging bank and my hummingbird 698 si finder with it, it also has a aluminum t-top with 4 rocket launcher rod holders.

please let me know what yall think a fair price for this would be and as always I love this thread!!


----------



## ranchonodinero

Any 15 owners around?


----------



## bsailors

ranchonodinero said:


> Any 15 owners around?


Pick mine up on Sat. Hopefully will take it on shakedown cruise the following weekend. Bought the 60hp option, hoping that is not overkill.

The storage on the 15 vs no storage on the 16 was the deciding factor for us.

Oh, and first post!


----------



## ranchonodinero

I went with a Ranger RB190.


----------



## Tjsadler

*Easier Livewell Mod*

Hi guys. I recently bought a new Pro Skiff 16 and was having the normal problem with the livewell not priming. I read on the forum posts about the mod with the "T" installed in the line and the reducers and the clamps and the 1/4" line so I was all ready to do that when my laziness took over and I started looking for an easier way. I started thinking about how a sprinkler system gets put together without all the "T's" so I bought a packet of the 1/4" barbed connectors and some 1/4" line and silicone sealant. I first ran the 1/4" line to terminate near the motor over the back of the transom but where I could see it. Basically I have a second visual indicator of whether the pump is pumping water or not. I attached the 1/4" barbed fitting onto the other end of the line. I drilled a smaller hole in the top of the livewell line just outside the pump and stabbed the 1/4" fitting into it. I used a generous amount of silicone around the fitting to make sure it wouldn't leak. I had the boat in the water a few days later and it primed and ran 99% of the time. I even closed the livewell valve end almost completely to see if the pressure would make the barbed fitting leak and it didn't. This mod does the same thing as the "T" fittings and all their accompanying parts but with way less parts and way less work.


----------



## Tjsadler

Here are some pics finally


----------



## Undersea4me

*Safe-Floor*

Anyone have any experience with this on their 17 or 19 Pro Skiff? Supposed to be awesome stuff
http://safe-floor.com


----------



## Kevin Nicholls

Iâ€™d love to get it but they said it would be $1200 to $1400 to put it on. Just canâ€™t pull the trigger on it. Some day.


----------



## pscottie

Hello everyone! Looking at picking up a 2018 17' Pro skiff shortly and had questions about how the boat handles moderate chop. From videos and of course what Mako says, it looks like it does pretty well.

Im on Florida's east coast and it will be used primarily in the Indian river lagoon/inter-coastal and it can get pretty choppy at times.

I likely won't be putting it in at these times, but it can go from smooth to 1-2 ft chop sometimes depending on conditions and of course wake from decent size boats moving around.

Thanks!


----------



## [email protected]

*Mako Pro Skiff 17 review day*

Have had my mako pro skiff 17 for almost 8 months now. Was wondering can the live well run overnight sitting on trailer or out of water? If I fish in the morning and decide to go in for lunch and plan on heading back out that afternoon will the live well run with the saltwater that got pumped in that morning? If so has it ran anybody's battery down overnight?


----------



## atexan

pscottie said:


> Hello everyone! Looking at picking up a 2018 17' Pro skiff shortly and had questions about how the boat handles moderate chop. From videos and of course what Mako says, it looks like it does pretty well.
> 
> Im on Florida's east coast and it will be used primarily in the Indian river lagoon/inter-coastal and it can get pretty choppy at times.
> 
> I likely won't be putting it in at these times, but it can go from smooth to 1-2 ft chop sometimes depending on conditions and of course wake from decent size boats moving around.
> 
> Thanks!


I have a 2014 that I run often in Gal Bay and it is safe in the chop. Its not a pleasant ride, but you are safe.


----------



## Houtoccmatt

Wow what a thread. A lot of useful information. However, I've searched for my problem and can't find the answer on here. I have a new 2018 Mako 17 pro skiff with a 60 HP Merc (4cy 4 stroke of course) from BPS. During the break-in as soon as I got to blipping it up to full revs I realized my tach was waaaaay off. It would go well past 7K, probably closer to 10K, couldn't tell because it was pegged out. Anyways, I don't want to drag to the dealer as I think it has to do with the dial setting or the calibration. 

My question is, what pole setting should it be on? From what I found on other sites, it leads me to believe it should be on 6P (the tach is a Sierra btw), but the documents I found don't go past 2012 so I'm assuming the later are the same.


----------



## mako17chd

*Sargent cut*

Thinking of taking the Mako offshore on a calm early morning next week from the Gulf cut at Sargent. Not really sure where to head once I'm out there though! Are there any rigs within a few miles of the beach? I don't want to get too far out at least not my first time venturing out. Any advice or ideas would be appreciated!!


----------



## scrat

Guys, I have a mako 16 I bought a while back.. Love the boat for what I use it for. One bad thing the 16 came with no hydraulic steering. I am goign to try to install that this fall and wondered if anyone else has been down this road? What kit did they go with, particular headaches, etc.


----------



## atexan

scrat said:


> Guys, I have a mako 16 I bought a while back.. Love the boat for what I use it for. One bad thing the 16 came with no hydraulic steering. I am goign to try to install that this fall and wondered if anyone else has been down this road? What kit did they go with, particular headaches, etc.


Search this thread for a post or two on the topic. Someone successfully installed Hyd. Steering a few years back. It wasn't cheap. My first suggestion would be to install a larger diameter steering wheel to see if that eases the turn.


----------



## Baud'up

If anyoneâ€™s in the market, I just won a 17â€™ skiff and have no use for it at the moment. Looking to sale if interested...thx!










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## scrat

*Hydraulic Steering Add on*



atexan said:


> Search this thread for a post or two on the topic. Someone successfully installed Hyd. Steering a few years back. It wasn't cheap. My first suggestion would be to install a larger diameter steering wheel to see if that eases the turn.


.

Thanks I did and i got all the particulars. Even contacted baystar to get the appropriate kit id'd. The motor hookups and the steering pump is no problem. The hard part is gonna be to get thos hydraulic hoses through the cable trace. It was hard enuff just getting the depth finder cable through but perseverance and a lot of cussing should get the trick done...


----------



## MichaelMcNease

Hi all been awhile since i have been on here. I usually use my 2014 17 ft skiff for bay fishing in Palacios,Tx or to set jugs in the local lakes in the hill country. My question thou is has anyone ever pulled a tube with a mako 17 ft skiff? I read on like page 6 or so that one guy just hooks into the hooks in the back of the boat but am wondering if anyone has experience with doing just that or is there a better way? Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks


----------



## johnsons1480

MichaelMcNease said:


> Hi all been awhile since i have been on here. I usually use my 2014 17 ft skiff for bay fishing in Palacios,Tx or to set jugs in the local lakes in the hill country. My question thou is has anyone ever pulled a tube with a mako 17 ft skiff? I read on like page 6 or so that one guy just hooks into the hooks in the back of the boat but am wondering if anyone has experience with doing just that or is there a better way? Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks


I use this on my 19, works perfect for tube and knee board.
AIRHEAD AHTH-3 Tow Harness https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FECD2Y?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


----------



## MichaelMcNease

johnsons1480 said:


> I use this on my 19, works perfect for tube and knee board.
> AIRHEAD AHTH-3 Tow Harness http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FECD2Y?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


Do you just hook it to the transom hooks?


----------



## johnsons1480

MichaelMcNease said:


> Do you just hook it to the transom hooks?


Yes, just hook it to the transom hooks and go


----------



## Koda2017

Hello everyone.. new to the forum and my boat.. but not to boating. I just picked up a 2018 Mako Pro Skiff 17. I really like it.. but have a few questions. I am trying to read the forum, but there are so many messages it takes a while. So forgive me if this has been asked before:

1) How do I read the stock fuel tank? The gauge is under the decking. Is there another tank that others are using? I find it difficult to see how much fuel is left without stopping and staring at the tank. If the sun is just right, then you can't tell. Please help.
2) Proper way to fill the tank... I am using a funnel to do it.. but not really happy with that. I don't want to take the tank out each time. What are others doing?
3) What is the best GPS/Fishfinder for this boat? Is it easy to install? 
4) Same for a trolling motor. Would like to get a 55lb thrust.. but don't want to spend $1000 dollars. 
5) Any other improvements or things I should know?

Thanks in advance..


----------



## atexan

Koda2017 said:


> Hello everyone.. new to the forum and my boat.. but not to boating. I just picked up a 2018 Mako Pro Skiff 17. I really like it.. but have a few questions. I am trying to read the forum, but there are so many messages it takes a while. So forgive me if this has been asked before:
> 
> 1) How do I read the stock fuel tank? The gauge is under the decking. Is there another tank that others are using? I find it difficult to see how much fuel is left without stopping and staring at the tank. If the sun is just right, then you can't tell. Please help.
> 2) Proper way to fill the tank... I am using a funnel to do it.. but not really happy with that. I don't want to take the tank out each time. What are others doing?
> 3) What is the best GPS/Fishfinder for this boat? Is it easy to install?
> 4) Same for a trolling motor. Would like to get a 55lb thrust.. but don't want to spend $1000 dollars.
> 5) Any other improvements or things I should know?
> 
> Thanks in advance..


Fuel tank is not user friendly. You will find a comfort level with it. I can go all day on a single tank. I used to carry a 1 gallon spare then I switched to a second 6 gallon tank mounted on the other side. My boat doesn't have the rear live well so I can do this. I recommend a spare fuel source of some sort. 
Filling is easy, just loosen the strap enough to slide it forward. Then fill with the pump nozzle.

I'm a big fan of Lowrance but others on the forum will argue. Go to bass pro, play with all of them and buy what you choose to afford.

55lb. is perfect for this boat. You don't need a remote unless you 'want'. Minn Kota. It does a good job.

There are plenty of other things you can do. Bimini Tops fit well on these boats. Radio options are plentiful. I use a stick anchor 95% of the time. Additional rod holders. storage boxes, etc... etc...etc... How much $$ you got? LOL!


----------



## Koda2017

Thanks for the info. I am going to go to BassPro and do what you said. That is the only way to know. 

On another subject, I saw where someone put a tower over the center console on a 17' skiff? How and where did you get it? I thought the 17' wouldn't support a tower?


----------



## Koda2017

I was reading all the previous posts.. is anyone still have water in the hull issues or any issues with the live well? Just curious.


----------



## atexan

Koda2017 said:


> Thanks for the info. I am going to go to BassPro and do what you said. That is the only way to know.
> 
> On another subject, I saw where someone put a tower over the center console on a 17' skiff? How and where did you get it? I thought the 17' wouldn't support a tower?


A couple of folks have done towers, others have done poling platforms. I bookmarked this web site http://actionweld.com just in case I am ever feeling rich. All of it is custom work.


----------



## atexan

Koda2017 said:


> I was reading all the previous posts.. is anyone still have water in the hull issues or any issues with the live well? Just curious.


I only have water/hull issues when I try to use the console live well or when it rains and the lower plug is in. It was a poor design for my 2014 model. I am told these issues have been fixed in later models.


----------



## Seamancox28

*Just purchased a 2019 Mako 17'' Skiff.*

I had been looking into the 2018 Mako skiff and I loved it. I went to call BPS and ask about one but they told me there were no more 18's but they could order 19's... I was confused there was nothing on the 19's on Makos website. I found a 19 in FL with a 75 and I wanted it. No I needed it. I called yesterday and I will be going down Tuesday to pick it up. I sold my current skiff (that I am in love with) for way less than it was worth just to make room for the new one. I feel like I made a shotgun purchase and this is too good to be true. Does anyone have a 19? What should I look out for? I think the 75HP motor looks cool but it also looks stupid heavy. Also, from the pictures the salesman sent me I cannot see a cover or filter on the Live well intake. I asked him if this was something they should have but the salesman seemed clueless. Other than that the boat looks awesome. I Spent way more than I wanted to but I have never had a new boat, or new anything for that matter.

Does anyone have any ideas of things I need to look out for when I pick it up? I cannot find any info or specs for it online. Is there a manufacturer Hotline or anyone I can contact to get specs?

Thanks to all for any info.

This is my first post on any forum so my apologies if it is not formatted correctly or posted in the correct location. :cheers:


----------



## Koda2017

What are the differences between the 2018 and the 2019? I don't see anything on Mako site about a 2019 being available yet.


----------



## Koda2017

I don't see a 2019 17' foot. Only a 15' and 19'.


----------



## Seamancox28

Koda2017 said:


> I don't see a 2019 17' foot. Only a 15' and 19'.


I called Bass pro about a 2018 and they were all out but were taking orders for 2019's. I was also confused because Mako is not showing anythig for a 2019 17' model yet. I looked online and found a few dealers with the 2019 models. The Hull is redesigned and looks just like the 15' with the taller bow and new fishing platform ect. The 2019's also have the option for a 75 HP mercury. I did'nt want the bigger, heavier motor but the hull is about 200lbs heavier as well so I got one with the 75. I called Mako and they could only give me basic specs ( length, weight ect. and referred me to the dealer for more specifics. If you look up Waylen Bay marine in FL they still have another 2019 model for sale. It also has the 75 HP motor. They also have new options for bigger gas tanks and a few other little details. Another huge difference is the price. The 2017's and the 2018's were very competitively priced but the 2019's start right at 20,000. Kind of a bummer but it is an awesome boat. I will upload photos and post a few YouTube videos when I pick it up on Tuesday.


----------



## Lttran

Hi all new to this site and have been following the mako pro skiff forums for a while. This will be my first boat and am looking forward to getting one sometime soon. I will have to check out the difference between the 2018 vs the 2019 proskiffs. One question, are the trailer widths the same with the 17 vs the 19' skiffs?


----------



## ACflats

any updates Seamancox28? I was waiting to pick up a 2018 with the end of year clearance discount, but when I went in to see it i saw the 2019 model and it looks amazing. Now I'mnot sure which one i want to go with.


----------



## Lttran

ACflatsllm said:


> any updates Seamancox28? I was waiting to pick up a 2018 with the end of year clearance discount, but when I went in to see it i saw the 2019 model and it looks amazing. Now I'mnot sure which one i want to go with.


What does the clearance event offer?


----------



## RLM215

ACflatsllm said:


> any updates Seamancox28? I was waiting to pick up a 2018 with the end of year clearance discount, but when I went in to see it i saw the 2019 model and it looks amazing. Now I'mnot sure which one i want to go with.


Just picked up the 2019 and and really glad I did not go with the 2018 after looking at one in bass pro. The entire hull design has changed it flares out in the middle and is higher from the water in the front. The front deck now has a proper mounting location for the trolling motor. No lip and a dedicated mounting space. Has a front hatch for the anchor and a large front hatch for storage. The rear livewell is about triple the size of the 2018 and located in the middle. I think it is well worth the price difference.


----------



## RLM215

Wanted to share an update. Anyone seeing a massive amount of water draining from the lower plug should have the lower housing checked. I brought my boat to the shop and they found the lower brass housing that holds the drain plug was not sealed to the boat. Even with the plug sealed tight, water freely entered the hull.

My boat has been in the shop for a while now and I'm dying to get back out on the water. I have a list of things being fixed, but this was one of the bigger things that had me worried.


----------



## ADrummer2278

*Power Switch ALWAYS going out*

Has anyone else had this issue? I have had to replace the power switch on my 2 year old boat 5 times already! Its under warranty so I take it to the dealer and have them do it and ask them to check all the wiring etc... they say the wiring is fine, but 5 times is ridiculous! it has now gone out on me AGAIN. So annoying! the boat turns on and the fish finder works but not all the other electronics and I need the lights and bilge especially!


----------



## ACflats

Anybody heard any reviews on the new redesigned 2019 model yet? looking to pull the trigger soon on one of these.


----------



## arrowhand

Back in a proskiff 17. Ended up trading in my 2014 for a Keywest bayreef 230 with a yamaha 250 SHO. suffered a major case of 2footitis. After having that boat for a couple years i found myself missing my little skiff-so simple to operate solo and cheap on gas, so the keywest got sold and im back in a 2018 17skiff , this one has the larger 75hp motor, hydraulic steering and a stainless 4 blade prop. Put about 1.5 hrs of breakin yesterday between rains. lots of updating was done with the new body style. That front storage area is HUGE for a little boat. burned thru about 2 gallons of gas so i think its just about a gas sipping as that 60hp was. Be getting a 80lb minnkota again but im going to upgrade to the power deploy and stow model. Something to be said for simple little boats.


----------



## atexan

> Something to be said for simple little boats.


 I second that!


----------



## FlatsCatFL

arrowhand, what do you mean by '2footitis'?


----------



## SeaDreamin

Hey guys! I just purchased a small Garmin Striker 4 for the boat. Just curious as to the best way to install. The only electronics I have is a small radio with two speakers that I have running to my power switch powered off my starting battery. I’m going to purchase a second battery for the finder along with lights that were purchased for me as a gift. Just curious if anyone else installed a fish finder on there’s and has some insight. Of course I’m scared to drill into the hull but it’s a necessary evil and just don’t want to screw it up. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!!


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## Bilge Cereal

*Where to sea trial?*

Hello! I'm a lifelong sailor and am looking into getting a skiff to run my wife, son and me around protected ICW crabbing, amateur (very) fishing, and beach picnic runs. I like what I read and see of the May-Craft 1700 CC and the Mako Pro Skiff 17 (2019) but have no idea where to sea trial either. Anyone know of a place near Hampton, VA to try a Mako PS 17? I have a BPS 15 minutes away but they don't offer the opportunity. Thanks in advance.
-BC


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## JustAddWater2

*Mako 17 Pro Bow Roller*

I'm sure this has been discussed. When I back out the boat the roller gets hung under the lip of the bow. Same coming in. I need a fix and quick. I'm pooped lifting this bow. I think someone makes skiff rollers. My roller measures 6 1/2". Wierd size. :headknock


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## JustAddWater2

*Done*

Fixed. Bought two 6" roller wheels rubber and install on outside. $18


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## 352outfitters

Post a pic please.


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## NanoSkiff

A stretch but... Can anyone with the new Mako with the 13.0 x 17p stainless prop on the 75 hp tell me what RPM you run at WOT?

Thanks.


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## Carp-enter

Justaddwater said:


> Fixed. Bought two 6" roller wheels rubber and install on outside. $18


Yes, Photos would be great


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## Carp-enter

Is anyone else having issues with your fish finder showing depth at speed? It's been suggested that my transducer is too close to the small tunnel on the starboard side and is picking up turbulence. The mechanic at BPS is saying that I need a different type of transducer. I have a hummingbird helix 5 with down imaging. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.


----------



## RUFcaptain

A different transducer may not help, ultrasound will not transmit through air/ turbulence. Not even sure a thru-hull transducer will â€œseeâ€ clean water with a tunnel hull. Best to consult your boat manufacturer and get their opinion.


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## atexan

Carp-enter said:


> Is anyone else having issues with your fish finder showing depth at speed? It's been suggested that my transducer is too close to the small tunnel on the starboard side and is picking up turbulence. The mechanic at BPS is saying that I need a different type of transducer. I have a hummingbird helix 5 with down imaging. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.


If you dig thru this thread, you will find some posts by JoeBucko where he places the transducer in different spots to get the right results.
BTW - my Lowrance has never worked properly under speed after many years of trying. My experience was deeper the better.


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## Carp-enter

Thanks atexan, found what I was looking for in a few of joe's numerous posts. I'll have to figure out the angle of the wedge and move the whole thing starboard. Just what I needed - another project.:biggrin:


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## SeaDreamin

*Squeaky bow platform*

Just wondering if anyone else has an issue with the bow platform squeaking when you stand on it? Iâ€™ve had my mako skiff 17 for four years now so itâ€™s out of warranty but just trying to see if itâ€™s a big deal or not.


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## atexan

Carp-enter said:


> Thanks atexan, found what I was looking for in a few of joe's numerous posts. I'll have to figure out the angle of the wedge and move the whole thing starboard. Just what I needed - another project.:biggrin:


Ahh.... making the wedge.... i remember that experience well. I ordered starboard from West Marine and used my hand circular saw. Take my advice, don't do that.


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## Carp-enter

SeaDreamin said:


> Just wondering if anyone else has an issue with the bow platform squeaking when you stand on it? Iâ€™ve had my mako skiff 17 for four years now so itâ€™s out of warranty but just trying to see if itâ€™s a big deal or not.


Only had my 17 for 2 years but nothing squeaking on mine. And believe me at 240ish plus the weight of my Icehole cooler on the deck, I would be making it squeak. Could you have something under the deck rubbing against it?


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## Reel Life

*New Member-Hello*

I have been keeping up with this forum for the last few years. Finally became a member. 
My boat:
2012 Mako Pro Skiff
40 Hp

Would love to see some pics of all of your boats. 
I will upload some also.


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## Reel Life

*Loose Deck*

SeaDreamin be cautious. I have a 2012, bought it used in 2017. The deck on it was a little loose when I took posession. After a little investigation, I decided to pull up on the decks, they both broke loose. There was a ton of glue that Mako had put down, but it was hardly making any contact with the deck. I cleaned it all up and re-glued it down with 3M 5200. It is rock solid now. Here are some pics of what I found. You can see small spot that made contact but not much.


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## Reel Life

Carp-enter said:


> Thanks atexan, found what I was looking for in a few of joe's numerous posts. I'll have to figure out the angle of the wedge and move the whole thing starboard. Just what I needed - another project.:biggrin:


Let us know if the wedge works. I have lowrance hook7. I have tried mounting the transducer in many different spots. Only works when going slow.


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## Reel Life

*Front without deck*

Here is how the boat looks without a front deck.


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## Reel Life

*Lights*

I am thinking about adding some lights to the front of the boat for early morning applications. Would like to know if anyone else has done this and if so, any pros or cons? What types of lights did you use and how and where did you mount them?


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## uvafisherman

*Used 2018 Mako Pro Skiff 17*

Recently picked up a used 2018 Pro Skiff 17 for use on the upper Potomac River. I plan to keep it in the water during the season. Anyone have any suggestions on bottom paint? I saw someone asked the question in an earlier thread, but I couldn't find an answer.

Really appreciate all the advice from reading the thread so far - convinced me to pull the trigger and buy this boat.

Thanks in advance.


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## Reel Life

uvafisherman said:


> Recently picked up a used 2018 Pro Skiff 17 for use on the upper Potomac River. I plan to keep it in the water during the season. Anyone have any suggestions on bottom paint? I saw someone asked the question in an earlier thread, but I couldn't find an answer.
> 
> Really appreciate all the advice from reading the thread so far - convinced me to pull the trigger and buy this boat.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


I don't know anything about bottom paint, but good luck with the boat. I hope you enjoy yours as much as I have enjoyed mine.


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## wag1551

*Bottom Paint*

The keel on my sailboat is in the water all year.

It has Interlux interprotect 2000E barrier coat

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/interlux--interprotect-2000e-barrier-coat-system--P004_121_007_504

and Interlux Trilux 33 top coat

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/interlux--trilux-33-antifouling-paint--P004_121_001_510?recordNum=4

any scum that accumulates brushes off easily


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## JustAddWater2

*Online Wiring Diagram?*

My power switch stopped working. I bought another and it still doesn't work. Looking for a console wiring diagram.


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## ghoelzel

*Repair of Pro Skiff 17 60 HP frozen pivot pin*

I have a 2014 Pro skiff 17 and the motor pivot was nearly frozen. Steering had become more and more difficult each spring after sitting all winter. In spite of greasing the the available 2 fittings ( Cable and pivot) I was unable to get acceptable movement. Grease always came out the top but not on bottom. This year I actually stripped the teeth off the Safe-t steering box trying to loosen the pivot. I purchased a new SH5094 box. But I knew that I would have to improve the pivot movement or I'd brake the new unit, After numerous initiatives adding additional grease fittings, heating, flushing with WD 40 under pressure) I finally added a grease fitting on the inside of the pivot (Facing the transom) about 3/8 of an inch up from the bottom of the pivot. It took a lot of pressure but I finally got grease to flow out the bottom of the pivot. This has loosened the movement considerably and steering function works reasonably well.


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## CopanoCruisin

I am with Justaddwater, my 2012 Mako Pro Skiff 16 40 hp Mecury has been sitting since Hurricane Harvey in August of 2017. finally the house and the shop. is complete and back to new normal. I have pretty much ran it in the driveway every 4 to 8 weeks ever since. Just put it in the shop for a complete service. No engine issues and and has always had fresh gas w/stabilizer. Since it always started right up and run good, I never even though about the electrical system. Went to checking everything out this afternoon and I do not have power to to any accessories.i will get back on it tomorrow afternoon, just curious if there is a main fuse to the power switch? Thanks.........CC


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## cmcmurphy22

Hello,
I am considering buying a mako skiff for the inland lakes, some rivers and inshore at the coast. Would mostly be me and my two teenagers fishing and sometimes my wife joining but just for cruising. Our total weight for the 4 of us is about 630lbs. Theres lots of 16's with the 40hp but I'm concerned that might not be enough power for when we are all on the boat. I've read in a few places the 40hp just wasn't the greatest under load for the 16. Should I be going with the 17 and a 60hp for my purposes?


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## Mouse52

I believe you would be happier with the17â€™ and 60. Especially as your teenagers grow. I had a 17â€™ and it did very well with three people and I believe it would have done well with a fourth.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## LSUALUM

I am currently looking at a used 16' pro skiff. I am sure it is posted somewhere in this thread but haven't been able to find it yet. Can someone let me know what the from factory weight distribution is like on these boats? Is it 50% stern, 20% bow, etc.? Also, what are some tell tale signs of anything bad to lookout for?


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## wag1551

cmcmurphy22 said:


> Hello,
> I am considering buying a mako skiff for the inland lakes, some rivers and inshore at the coast. Would mostly be me and my two teenagers fishing and sometimes my wife joining but just for cruising. Our total weight for the 4 of us is about 630lbs. Theres lots of 16's with the 40hp but I'm concerned that might not be enough power for when we are all on the boat. I've read in a few places the 40hp just wasn't the greatest under load for the 16. Should I be going with the 17 and a 60hp for my purposes?


I had a 16 with the 40 hp for about a month then traded for a 17 with a 60 hp. The 17 is way better for my purposes which are mostly cruising. I have had 4 adults with no problem


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## cmcmurphy22

I need swim ladder and Bimini top suggestions please! Having a really hard time with the swim ladder issue. Not sure what works?


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## Reel Life

cmcmurphy22 said:


> I need swim ladder and Bimini top suggestions please! Having a really hard time with the swim ladder issue. Not sure what works?


I purchased a bimini from Ebay for around $100. I has worked great.
Not sure about a ladder.


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## atexan

cmcmurphy22 said:


> I need swim ladder and Bimini top suggestions please! Having a really hard time with the swim ladder issue. Not sure what works?


I have a Carver Cover that has held up well. Wasn't cheap though ($500)

These are the notes I have about the ladder.

_Bass Pro Shop in Pearland has a ladder designed for the Mako Pro Skiff 17. One of the guys on the forum helped design it so they started carrying it. Locally made and can get it from the boat rigging department. Cost was around $500. Not cheap but very well made.
_

Somewhere in this thread there are pages regarding the ladder.


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## cmcmurphy22

Is that the only option? Iâ€™ve seen some inexpensive rope steps that look like they might attach to the rope cleat. I wonder how much weight those cleats could handle?

Is a $500 ladder really the only option?


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## Kevin Nicholls

I believe TH Marine has a ladder that mounts to a jack plate or the motor mounts. It's a fold down aluminum two rung emergency ladder for about $200. Also R&R Design in Terrell Tx has one. Kevin.


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## Reel Life

*Finally Boat Pics*

So back in Nov. I said I was going to post some pics. Finally got around to taking some today. My boat is a 2012 Pro Skiff 16. I want to thank everyone who has put information here. I also want to say Thank You to Kevin Nicholls for all of his help and encouragement on the jack plate and trim tab install. I hope some others will post pics. I enjoy seeing how others set this boat up.


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## Reel Life

*More Pics*

Here are a few more pics.


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## Kevin Nicholls

I like it. Job well done.


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## chasejordan1

*Mako Pro Skiff 17 heading to Catalina Island*

I have read a few people taking the Mako to Catalina, would love to get some thoughts on this?


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## Reel Life

*Mako 16 Top Speed*

I wanted to ask the owners of the Mako Pro Skiff 16 with the 40 HP engines, what top speeds they are running? I am topping out at 30 mph by myself and 27-29 mph with two of us in the boat. Before adding the jackplate my top speed was 25 mph.


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## Kevin Nicholls

I have a 2012 Pro Skiff 17, I've hade it 5 years and used it a lot. I haven't had any problems other than regular issues any boat in saltwater would have. Is it the greatest boat in the world, nope. Will it go anywhere and do anything, nope. I fish back bays and bayous, I fish open bays on calm days. It's been a very good, reliable boat for me and I've owned boats and fished my whole life. I have no intentions of selling it anytime soon. I hope this helps, Kevin.


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## atexan

I will second Kevin's comments. The pro skiff won't turn any heads but you won't be spending $60k either.

I bought new in 2014 and I don't use it nearly enough to justify keeping it. However I know all of its little issues and such and have 99.9% confidence it won't leave me stranded. I couldn't say that of any used boat. So I will be holding on to mine until such time as I am able to use it more often.

I stop by Bass Pro in Katy from time to time and it looks as if these boats have only gotten better with time. More features such as built-in tanks and larger motors. Good luck with your buy.


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## KiteboarderDoug

Does anyone have any photos that can share the wiring for the nav switch? Somehow I know that I don't have them right. Everything else works and I just got a new switch from Mako and she doesn't light up. I just need to be able to see colors to match up.


thanks


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## Kevin Nicholls

I sent you a PM.


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## TheMann505

Hello. New here and hoping this thread hasn’t totally died. I’m a North Texan who spends his summers in SW Florida. This summer I brought my too-big-for-one-person deck boat all the way from Texas and sold it in Florida. Now looking at getting a Mako Pro Skiff 17 CC. I like the concept of getting it at BPS because I have one close by my house in Texas and where I stay in Florida. However, I know they usually don’t water test nor do they have any in stock to do so. Anyone know of any resources on where to be able to experience the boat on the water before I make a cash outlay on it?


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## atexan

TheMann505 said:


> Hello. New here and hoping this thread hasn’t totally died. I’m a North Texan who spends his summers in SW Florida. This summer I brought my too-big-for-one-person deck boat all the way from Texas and sold it in Florida. Now looking at getting a Mako Pro Skiff 17 CC. I like the concept of getting it at BPS because I have one close by my house in Texas and where I stay in Florida. However, I know they usually don’t water test nor do they have any in stock to do so. Anyone know of any resources on where to be able to experience the boat on the water before I make a cash outlay on it?


My opinion - if you are stuck on 'float before you buy' then I think your best avenue is to buy used from an individual in FL. There are a ton of these boats in FL and always for sale. Make a test float a condition of purchase. I launch and trailer mine by myself all the time. It can be done as long as you slow down and pay attention (my biggest issue).
Waypoint in Corpus is the closest 'to the water' dealer that I am aware of.


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## TheMann505

atexan said:


> My opinion - if you are stuck on 'float before you buy' then I think your best avenue is to buy used from an individual in FL. There are a ton of these boats in FL and always for sale. Make a test float a condition of purchase. I launch and trailer mine by myself all the time. It can be done as long as you slow down and pay attention (my biggest issue).
> Waypoint in Corpus is the closest 'to the water' dealer that I am aware of.


Thank you atexan. In addition to being stuck on float before you buy, I’m also stuck on buying new. I loved my last boat, but couldn’t get past some of the things that came with buying used. I really want the warranty coverage and it seems that reading through the thread BPS does a good job of standing behind the product. Thanks again!


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## MakoZ28

I just read most of this thread and I am quite happy about decision to purchase a 2022 Mako CC17. It seems pretty much all owners are happy with their boats and we all bought them for the same reasons, a fishing boat that’ll fish almost anywhere in Texas and pull a tube. What more do you need? My wife and I are both avid fishermen and enjoyed the perk of using the parents boat for years until recently. We like most of you, like getting out in the bay or the channels and catching reds but we live in Georgetown so we do settle for freshwater when we are pinched on time.


My question is, I opted for the 75hp engine and pretty much checked all the boxes except for the jacking plate. Do these boats need a jacking plate? What’s the real benefit to it when you’re already in such a capable boat?

Due to covid, we are on a 2-6 month lead time before delivery. While I really don’t like the wait it does give me time to figure out a few things I will be needing. Thanks


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## Kevin Nicholls

I have a 2012 17 footer with a 60hp on it. I put a jack plate on it so I could idle around in shallower water. It changed the the way the boat got on plane significantly.in a bad way. I added Smart Tabs to it and had to get the prop cupped because of cavitation. The set back on the jack plate changes a lot of things on these boats. All that said I'm very happy with the way the boat runs and planes. It takes off very level and will get on plane with the jack plate all the way up, I have to lower it when I'm winding down the bayous though. If you have any questions PM me your number, I'll be glad to answer any questions you have. Kevin.


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## Briangina 17.

flounder boy said:


> Gonna try and load pics of mods completed since purchase in March.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This the Bimini from bass pro
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This would be the ladder custom built for the boat
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are the rod holders. I had a hard time settling on the right rod holders due to the non flat surface of the gunnels. These mount individually and work great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added a second tank and can run all day on 12 gallons.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I would like info on your ladder


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## ctoles86

Does anyone on here have the mako 19 and how do they like it?


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## c hook

I'm running a 20 foot 75' Mako semi v hull. I've had it for over 30 years, excellent for Galveston. It's been restored, but it's a very solid boat and handle chop well. My understanding is the newer Mako's aren't built like the older ones. I have no experience with the newer ones.

I see you revived a 2012 thread??


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## FishinMid

Hey guys, I've read a ton of these posts and am super thankful for all the help that has been on here. 

I have a 2014 Pro Skiff 17' and just saved up enough to get a Minn Kota Powerdrive, 54" shaft 70lb thrust 24v with i-Pilot. I fish between South Jersey and South Florida so all sorts of current and different styles of fishing so I'm really excited for it. As I'm sure everyone is aware, the older models do not have the dedicated trolling motor platform and plug in station. I'm not as concerned with the plug-in as I am with where to mount the thing. I've seen a couple of y'all used shims to get enough clearance with the lip on the bow. I purchased the RTA 17 quick release mount with the motor and I'm wondering if anyone has used that mount and if it gives enough clearance to get over that lip. If not, what's the best way to gain height? My guess is starboard and/or aluminum like someone had way back on page 76, but then I assume I probably wouldn't be able to use the quick release mount unless I got super long bolts. 

Any and all help is appreciated. I'm still waiting on the TM to ship and looking at an install on the weekend of the 23rd so I've got time to tie up any loose ends. Thanks everyone.


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## Kevin Nicholls

Mine was mounted by Bass Pro Shop, it's a 2012. My boat is up at my shop right now but I can send you a picture tomorrow or Monday. They may still sell the mount at Bass Pro.


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## hendersonb762

Mouse52 said:


> *Mako 17 ladder*
> 
> Bass Pro Shop in Pearland has a ladder designed for the Mako Pro Skiff 17. One of the guys on the forum helped design it so they started carrying it. Locally made and can get it from the boat rigging department. Cost was around $500. Not cheap but very well made.


How can I purchase one of those ladders?


Mouse52 said:


> rigging


How can I purchase one of these ladders?


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## hendersonb762

Mouse52 said:


> *Mako 17 ladder*
> 
> Bass Pro Shop in Pearland has a ladder designed for the Mako Pro Skiff 17. One of the guys on the forum helped design it so they started carrying it. Locally made and can get it from the boat rigging department. Cost was around $500. Not cheap but very well made.


How can I buy a ladder?


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## Mouse52

hendersonb762 said:


> How can I buy a ladder?


Call the boat department at Bass Pro in Pearland. Not sure if they still keep them in stock but the should be able to get one for you.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## awelch0428

FishinMid: I think you will still need a shim. I bought the quick release when I put mine on and decided not to use it because I store my 2017 PS17 in the garage and we don't travel with it. I remember assessing the situation though and thinking that it would need a shim still. The challenge was to get the motor lined up so that it angles out of the way and you can still have access to the bolt heads under the bow deck and through the bow gunnel. Mine could have been angled a bit more.


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## awelch0428

P.S. I f you look around online I found a product for the Pro Skiff 19 that provided a template in the images. I used that to get the angle for the shape of the shim.









Mako Boat Trolling Motor Base 184068 | 19 CC Pro Skiff Off White


Boat part number 8103099 is a new trolling motor mounting base assembly for a Tracker Mako 19 CC Pro Skiff model Boat, part number 184068 .




www.greatlakesskipper.com


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## Keatoncrew

I wanted to find out how I can get the same custom ladder for my 17 ft mako


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## MakoBoner

2015 Mako ProSkiff 17.

Put on a Fishmaster T top, and a stick it manual pole anchor. Perfect for island hopping here in NC


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## MakoBoner

Reel Life said:


> *Front without deck*
> 
> Here is how the boat looks without a front deck.


That's giving me ideas to put some custom cushions there, and go deckless!


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## atcfisherman

How do those boats handle 1-2 foot chop?


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## MakoBoner

atcfisherman said:


> How do those boats handle 1-2 foot chop?


Compared to my buddies flat bottom John boat, and my other buddies flat bottom Carolina Skiff, better. Not as good as a true v-shape hull, but when I gave them both a ride they were incredibly impressed, including his wife, because she's used to being bounced around to wakes on the ICW.


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## CenTexDave

MakoBoner said:


> 2015 Mako ProSkiff 17.
> 
> Put on a Fishmaster T top, and a stick it manual pole anchor. Perfect for island hopping here in NC
> View attachment 4617227





atcfisherman said:


> How do those boats handle 1-2 foot chop?


I was surprised at how good they handle chop. They even manage to stay relatively dry. The trick is trimming properly and managing speed.


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## Missed Again

Are the newer models of the Pro Skiff self-bailing? As they first came out they were not so I moved on to another brand but now am helping a friend find himself a skiff and remembered the PS-17 as one I really liked. Problem is though we both leave our boats in the water full time and of course they fill with rain water. If not self-bailing would just pulling the bilge plug now work without filling the boat with water?


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## CenTexDave

Missed Again said:


> Are the newer models of the Pro Skiff self-bailing? As they first came out they were not so I moved on to another brand but now am helping a friend find himself a skiff and remembered the PS-17 as one I really liked. Problem is though we both leave our boats in the water full time and of course they fill with rain water. If not self-bailing would just pulling the bilge plug now work without filling the boat with water?


They are not self-bailing. I'm guessing the design of the hull prevents the possibility of making them self-bailing. However, with the way it performs, I'm happy with the trade-off. If you have it on a lift and can pull the plug, that would solve the problem. You could also run the bilge pump after a rainstorm. Some people have installed auto-bilge pumps when the boats are left in the water.


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## Orazor

Hi folks. I’m looking at a super clean 2017 Mako Pro Skiff 21 on Tuesday. It seems to check every box for my specific needs. On the FB owners group, I got some pretty negative feedback about the 21s. Potentially systemic hull issues? I’ve tried to search in this thread, but honestly the 21s seem pretty rare. Are there any current 21 owners that can weigh in? Would you buy your boat again?


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## Kevin Nicholls

I have a 17'er and love it. I think the 21'er was a bridge too far. It's just a big wide tub. I don't know anything good or bad about it. Take it for a ride and see. Good luck.


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## YakShore Outdoors

I'm looking at possibly picking up a 2021 Pro Skiff 17. I do have a few questions though. So my wife and I like to chase trophy catfish in the Tennessee River. How would you guys mount rod racks for that style of fishing? How does this boat do when anchored in swift current? When anchored in any type of current How is the back and forth sway? I know this boat is designed more for flats and calm days on the reef, but I don't know how it does in 3 to 10mph current. Any opinions would be helpful. My wife loves the way this looks and the stability is a plus because of our toddler, but either it will work or it won't.


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## yeocokent

Does anyone know the bearing and/or hub kit replacement part numbers for the 2014 Karavan trailer that came with some 17 foot pro skiffs? I have the Karavan part numbers but not sure how that translates to other brands. I know the numbers are stamped in the bearings but my boat is 5+hours away.

I recently moved but left my boat at my old house. I need to go pick it up and would like to have some spare bearings and/or hub kit for the 400 mile journey.


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