# Measuring Cabinet Door Size



## BradP (May 24, 2004)

I would like to see if anyone had tips on how best to measure for cabinet doors for the 2 spaces at the top of this picture. Although I have most of the tools needed to make cabinet doors myself, it's probably something I would like to outsource for quicker service...any help with online or larger cabinet door company that could fab these up with dimensions to look similar to my kitchen cabinets?


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## MT Stringer (May 21, 2004)

Hello Brad.

Here is a video that might help.





My concern is will the door have room to open without hitting the wall?

Would it be OK to make a face frame for the front of the cabinet? Then it would be easy to measure for a pair of doors with a 1/2 inch overlay all around the opening.

I made a generic drawing of your cabinet with a face frame attached to the front of the cabinet. Then, to measure for doors, measure the opening of each door and add 1 inch so the door will overlay the opening by 1/2 inch all around.

European style hinges are available with the 1/2 inch overlay.
http://www.cabinetparts.com/p/blum-european-cabinet-hinges-BH38N355008

Evans Cabinet & Door in Brenham made the doors and drawer fronts for our kitchen. We stained and finished them. Doors and drawer fronts is all the do, and they are good at it.
http://www.evanscabinetanddoor.com/

Hope this helps.
Mike


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## 3192 (Dec 30, 2004)

X2

_*My concern is will the door have room to open without hitting the wall?

Would it be OK to make a face frame for the front of the cabinet? Then it would be easy to measure for a pair of doors with a 1/2 inch overlay all around the opening.
*_


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## padrefigure (Aug 22, 2006)

MT Stringer has it right--you either need to build inset doors (that I would be concerned about the appearance of) or build a face frame with overlay doors. You should be able to get a cabinet shop to build the face frame and doors as an assembly for little more than the cost of the doors. If your opening is not perfectly square, then have the face frame slightly over size and plane to fit the opening. The one thing that I would modify from MT's drawing is that the bottom of the cabinet needs to be flush with the bottom opening of the face frame, not the bottom of the face frame. You do not want a lip around the inside of the cabinet. So the bottom of the face frame will extend below the cabinet by about 3/4". You could install the face frame with finish screws or nails, caulk to the wall, paint to match and you would be done. Hope that makes sense.


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## MT Stringer (May 21, 2004)

Since there is a shelf underneath the cabinet, an option would be to make the bottom rail of the face frame the same as the thickness of the bottom of the cabinet. Then measure the doors so they would be even with the bottom. 

It would look a little funny, but would be functional.


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