# Seed Potatoes are in!!



## Meadowlark (Jul 19, 2008)

Just got back from a fishing trip (see my report in http://2coolfishing.com/ttmbforum/showthread.php?t=1767698) and found that my feed store has newly arrived seed potatoes.

Time to start getting that soil ready for planting soon.


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## Dick Hanks (Aug 16, 2007)

What varieties do well in your soil and climate? I still have to wait 4 more months to plant. Ugh.

Just looked at your fishing post.... OMG... What an adventure.

I'd love to catch a GT. It's on my bucket list. Unfortunately, one has to go 1/3 of the way around the world to get decent fishing for them. I'm starting to hate flying more and more.


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## Meadowlark (Jul 19, 2008)

Dick,

I've always had the best luck here with red potatoes...red lasoda, red pontiac.

I've tried the yukon gold in the past, but it doesn't produce as well for me and yields a lot fewer of the small "new potatoes" that we love to cook with fresh green beans...many great meals out of green beans and new potatoes. 

The reds here produce about 5 pounds per seed in a bad year and up to 10 pounds per seed in a good year. I usually buy about 20 to 25 pounds of seed potatoes and store as many as I can. We still have a few from last years crop under refrigeration. 

I hope you get your shot at the GT. It is truly everything that has been written and said about them ...and more. Terrific fish.


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## Dick Hanks (Aug 16, 2007)

I find your potato results very interesting. It appears that they are influenced more by their genetics than they are by location where they are grown. However, If I remember right, we do both have fairly sandy soil. Even though they are 1300 or 1400 miles apart.

I also grow Red Pontiac and do get quite a few small "new" potatoes off of them. It's a big reason for us to plant them. Our yields haven't matched yours though. I'd guess our average per hill is 3 or maybe 4#s with a max around 5#s. The Red Lasoda isn't available here, but I do switch between the Viking and Norland. 

My results on Yukon Gold are also similar. Very few small potatoes. Some years, there is a problem with them getting too large and forming hollow centers. The potato is still good to eat like this, but their keeping quality with hollow centers is very short. Because of this, we usually eat our largest ones 1st and the medium sized ones are excellent keepers. They are our favorite potato for making mashed potatoes. Like the reds, my yields on Yukons are usually 3 or 4#s per hill.

Last year I experimented with closer placement of the hills. Planting 2 or 3 hills wide between walking rows. About 1 foot apart in all directions. I had read that the result would be more small potatoes, and also a slight gain in in total weight of production on a per square foot basis. For the most part, my results verified this. I liked it for the reds, but I probably won't do it again with the Yukons because their production of good sizes dropped too much. The thing that I liked the most about doing this is that the potato leaf canopy is so dense that the weeds are blocked out. Little to no weeding!

I don't grow any Russets (bakers). We are OK with what the grocery store offers in that category.


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## Meadowlark (Jul 19, 2008)

Yes, Dick, sandy acid soil here. I've been told not to use manure cause it raises the ph, but I use it anyway cause my soils are borderline too acidic naturally. In fact, just hauled in a couple of trailer loads of cow from the area where I feed them yesterday and began working it into soils.

Also, I've found that big chunks of potato for seed work much better than small ones as far as production. Interesting but left over potatoes from the year before do not produce well as seed potatoes for me.

My yields have been declining the last two or three years. Not sure if its soils and/or weather. I always rotate where I plant them and follow up with cover crops, but they are very heavy feeders...so I went with extra manure this year in hopes to boost production.

I also like how the tops shade out weeds and hence the plants require very little care. However, the better the tops seems to be the less production for me. The scrawniest plants often have the highest numbers and size of potatoes for me which kind of seems backwards. I guess its the amount of energy thats required to grow the above ground plant vs underground tubers.

Potatoes are my all time favorite veg to grow...ours are always in demand around here by family,friends and neighbors and I'm glad to accommodate them.


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## Dick Hanks (Aug 16, 2007)

Several good points in your last post:

1) "I've found that big chunks of potato for seed work much better than small ones as far as production" Hmmm.....That may be part of my low production per hill. I tend to use smaller chunks that usually only have 1 eye. I will experiment with larger chunks.

2) " However, the better the tops seems to be the less production for me. The scrawniest plants often have the highest numbers and size of potatoes for me which kind of seems backwards. I guess its the amount of energy thats required to grow the above ground plant vs underground tubers" Also interesting..... I have also been getting very leafy tops. Wondering if more Phosphorus and Potassium, and not so much nitrogen would change any of this?

My soil is also acidic. I know that spuds like fairly acidic soil so I don't want to mess with this too much. The problem for me is when rotating. Most of my other spots have been changed to have more neutral soil for other plantings. Your space is so large, this isn't an issue. 

3) " ...ours are always in demand around here by family, friends and neighbors and I'm glad to accommodate them." This made me smile: As kids (60 years ago) my older brother and I had to take care of the potatoes from planting to harvest. Dad would help some at planting and harvest, but all of the weeding and squishing all of the potato bug eggs was for us young'uns. We would harvest anywhere from 1000 to 1500# of potatoes. Most were put up in 100# burlap bags. Dad always enjoyed giving away the potatoes that "HE GREW". Ugh!


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## Meadowlark (Jul 19, 2008)

Dick Hanks said:


> ... Wondering if more Phosphorus and Potassium, and not so much nitrogen would change any of this?
> 
> ....


In addition to natural fertilizers like bone meal in the hole, I like 12-24-12 for my potatoes...of course depends on what's already in the soil.

Great story about your Dad, LOL


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## whistech (Jul 25, 2005)

Meadowlark, when do you start fertilizing your potatoes? 
Thank, Arlie


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## peckerwood (Jun 9, 2012)

Me a my garden buds at work were talking about how we done crop wise that summer,and a cat we've known for years that grew up in the country had his 1st garden ever and is maybe 50 yrs.old, chimed in a said he'll never try growing potatoes again.They made beautiful plants and bloomed like crazy and then just died.I was setting there and heard him say all that,thinking there's a punch line.Some one said "why you dumb-***,there underground in the dirt".He got beet red,got up and walked off,never to join or group again.Ya'll ain't gotta believe me and I don't blame you,because I still have trouble believing it, and it was at least 10 years ago.I can't figure how he could cut and plant eyes and think he'd pick them like tomatoes.


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## Meadowlark (Jul 19, 2008)

whistech said:


> Meadowlark, when do you start fertilizing your potatoes?
> Thank, Arlie


Arlie,

I fertilize before planting...and almost never after planting. I like to place any fertilizers in the hole where you are putting the seed cuttings.

Fertilizing after planting mainly promotes top growth rather than the tuber growth.


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## whistech (Jul 25, 2005)

Meadowlark, thank you for the information.


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## Meadowlark (Jul 19, 2008)

*Soil Prep for 2016 Potatoes*

Although planting time is still about three weeks away here, it is definitely time to prepare the soil for the seed potatoes. This year, with El Nina, I'm going to plant a little deeper than normal ( i.e.higher bed) to provide extra drainage in case of excessive rains, although the effects of the El Nina seem to be abating around here.

First, about 10 days ago, I tilled in the elbon rye cover crop that has been flourishing all fall/winter . Next, brought in a couple of loads of cow and tilled that in. This was followed by 12-24-12 scattered over the bed. Just today, brought out the middle busters and covered the entire bed several inches deep in new fresh soil that hasn't seen potatoes in at least four years.

Notice the contrast between the sandy loam in the seed bed vs the black soil of the untilled winter garden. The middle busters reach down well over 12 inches to bring up fresh soil and nutrients...and takes only about 5 minutes with a small tractor....far less work than shovel.

I'll add some bone meal as a last topping before placing the seed potatoes on top of this bed. Then, just cover them and as they grow hill them up further.

That's how I do it. Interested in how others are planting this year.

p.s. my raspberries, boysenberries, loganberries, etc. to the left of the bed


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## whistech (Jul 25, 2005)

Meadowlark, that soil looks rich and wonderful.


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## Meadowlark (Jul 19, 2008)

Thank you Whistech. As you know, it takes years and years of work to build.


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## Rubberback (Sep 9, 2008)

Got 5 lbs & a 100ft for 100 plants ready to roll after I potash them & let them sit a few days. Probably need more but will see.


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## Rubberback (Sep 9, 2008)

FYI! I got 78 seeds out of 5lb's.


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## Rubberback (Sep 9, 2008)

Got them in the ground today. Need some rain bad.


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## V-Bottom (Jun 16, 2007)

Cut a piece from the potato that contains the eyes and plant about 3 pieces to a hill. When plants are about 6-8 inches put down some Soda (sodium nitrate) and cover with dirt.It doesn't take much...Tblsp per hill........right before a rain. Along with reg. fertilizer, makes for a good crop. Nice green plants and fuller fruit. You can use on all veggies.....just don't use too much, you'll burn them


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## Sugars Pop (Jul 10, 2008)

When are you guys planting squash, okra, cucumbers etc that live in East TX and the Navasota area. Getting the urge to plant some seeds in Limestone county in the next week or two so trying to get an idea on timing.
Thanks


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## Rubberback (Sep 9, 2008)

I'll plant okra in May. The other veggies you mentioned all depends on the weather. Its still way to cold here. It will more than likely be late March depending on soil temps.


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## Dick Hanks (Aug 16, 2007)

*Random thoughts about potatoes*

Potatoes like acidic soil. Their preferred range is a Ph of 5 to 5.5, which is very acidic. If the Ph of your soil tends to be higher, some potato varieties may form scabs on their skin as they mature. Ammonium Sulfate is a non-organic fertilizer that is acidic, but unfortunately, contains only nitrogen. If your potato soil only needs a nitrogen kick, this is the one. I buy it in 50# bags for my blueberry bushes (which love acidic), but I share it with my spuds. It's a 21-0-0. Sulfur will also drop the Ph but it is too slooow for potatoes. I do put it on my blueberries bushes every year though.

If you rotate in a different crop after the potatoes, try bring the Ph back up with some wood ashes from burning hardwoods. It will also add P and K to the soil. Don't over do it though.


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## Meadowlark (Jul 19, 2008)

Sugars Pop said:


> When are you guys planting squash, okra, cucumbers etc that live in East TX and the Navasota area. Getting the urge to plant some seeds in Limestone county in the next week or two so trying to get an idea on timing.
> Thanks


I usually plant okra after I pull my onions in May. You could probably get away with planting it maybe last week of April but it really has to have warm soils to germinate and grow.

Cucumbers will tolerate a little cooler conditions than okra but not a lot. Mine will go in the ground first about mid-April and another planting mid-May which will produce through summer.

Squash I usually start mid to late March depending on forecasts. I like to get my green beans and pinto beans going about that same time, but only if the solis are warm.

Corn is my big favorite garden crop and I will make four or five plantings this year separated by at least two weeks and starting the first planting in late March...again depending on weather.

One of the things that I've learned the hard way over the years is that very few plant types are worth risking cold snaps for, i.e. they just don't need the early planting and often suffer irreparable harm from cold soils...even if you cover them. Just wait until it warms some cause it just doesn't do any good to go early. That "urge" to plant hits us all...but really for most veggies, it is better to resist it.

The main exception to that are tomatoes which need to get in the ground as soon as possible in order to harvest as early as possible. Our heat really kills tomatoes and if you don't get 'em in early, you can miss the most productive times. I'll probably put some in the ground tomorrow...and another batch in a couple of weeks.

Of course your cold weather plants, like turnips, radishes, carrots, cabbage, kale, broc, onions, etc., etc. are best started in fall around here and potatoes get planted on or before Valentines day.


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## peckerwood (Jun 9, 2012)

I almost planted a few tomatoes this past weekend,but couldn't find anything to cover them with,so I figured I better hold my horses and am glad I did.32 degrees right now.I'm 3 weeks away from planting squash and greenbeans and maybe okra.No hurry on the okra though.It'll lay there until it's good and ready to come up after the soil has some heat to it.


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## Sugars Pop (Jul 10, 2008)

Garden is at the Lake House and only go on weekends so I will wait a few more weeks since I can't cover everything if it gets cold again. Heck we had snow there a couple years ago in mid March.
Thanks for the information


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## Meadowlark (Jul 19, 2008)

Sugars Pop said:


> Garden is at the Lake House and only go on weekends so I will wait a few more weeks since I can't cover everything if it gets cold again. Heck we had snow there a couple years ago in mid March.
> Thanks for the information


How about mid-April... just a few years back we had 2 inches of snow here on April 15...will never forget that one. Patience is a virtue for a lot of these garden veggies.


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