# 2008 F350 6.4 oil cooler plugged



## bigdaddyflo

Have any of you had a plugged oil cooler on the 6.4 and replaced it yourself, if so, how hard is it to do? Or do you know of a good repair shop that will guarantee their work. I am in Deer Park and I've been quoted right at $3000 from ford to do the repair (the oil cooler is roughly $350) and seems like a lot of money for this repair - but if you have ever looked under the hood of these trucks, you'll see all kinds of things packed under the hood and the mechanics earn their money. I normally do the work on this truck myself, but don't want to mess the truck up since I am going into the unknown. Oil cooler is under everything, right on top of the intake - engineers should be shot for doing that ****! My deltas are right at 15-20 degrees between the ECT and EOT. 
The truck is stock with 145,000 miles and I found a shop that quoted me $4,500 to replace the oil cooler, delete the egr, dpf, and new coolant filter, plus a mild tune. May go this route unless someone can direct me in other direction.


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## goodwood

I would attempt a coolant flush with restore and restore plus. That stuff works great. 

Another option is bulletproof diesels oil cooler kit. Its an external kit that may not require much labor. Sort of a band aid to a partially plugged cooler.

To remove and replace the oil cooler you have to remove turbos and intake manifold. Obviously a lot of work to remove all that equipment. However you might find a shop to do it for less. Im guessing parts are gonna be around 600-800. Then 2200 in labor. That breaks down to roughly 18-20 hours. Sounds a little high but i dont know the official book time. Maybe theyre charging you for a cab off procedure. 

I would call powerstroke magic or powerstroke enginuities. Both legit shops.


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## bigdaddyflo

goodwood said:


> I would attempt a coolant flush with restore and restore plus. That stuff works great.


Doing a little research on this stuff, it will break stuff loose and clog the cooler even further. And I can't seem to find anyone that has done it on a partially plugged oil cooler and was successful with the flush.



> Another option is bulletproof diesels oil cooler kit. Its an external kit that may not require much labor. Sort of a band aid to a partially plugged cooler.


On one of the negative reviews (1 star) on BPD's website, one reviewer said that adding this did not help his temps BPD commented to one of the reviewers/users that it won't help if the oil cooler is plugged and recommended a new oil cooler be installed (I read it myself). Plus it's around $1,400. 
Here's the review..."Put a bullet proof oil cooler on my 2010 f250 kit is nice but don't keep oil temp down while pulling my trailer runs 225 called bulletproof they told me that it was not a fix for a bad oil cooler that I wold hav to still change the factory one so I wasted 1400 on kit an 350 labor putting it on thanks for nothing still in same place I was just 1800 wasted"...



> To remove and replace the oil cooler you have to remove turbos and intake manifold. Obviously a lot of work to remove all that equipment. However you might find a shop to do it for less. Im guessing parts are gonna be around 600-800. Then 2200 in labor. That breaks down to roughly 18-20 hours. Sounds a little high but i dont know the official book time. Maybe theyre charging you for a cab off procedure.
> 
> I would call powerstroke magic or powerstroke enginuities. Both legit shops.


Are these shops local?

Unless someone can chime in on a successful Restore and Restore Plus flush, it's looking like I'm going to have to take the ol' girl in for some TLC!


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## goodwood

I would try restores at 35 a gallon and a day before i spent 3k on repairs. The previous owner of my truck put leak stop for a bad radiator and just about ruined the whole cooling system. I have pics somewhere of the build up that it removed.

Oil cooler- is why i described it as a band aid.

You asked for options and i gave them to you.

If you dont know ps magic or ps enginuities you need to ask around a little more.


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## bigdaddyflo

goodwood, I do appreciate your input, but I'm trying to save money and not throw good money at bad attempts (external cooler). I've already changed the thermostats and coolant thinking it would help my deltas since these are options that don't cost too much (money and time). However there were no improvements.
If I can do the Restore and have someone that personally did it with success - sounds like you did this - I am willing to try it! Even if it doesn't work, I am prepared financially to do the oil cooler and other delete items - but I am really not wanting to do the oil cooler replacement! I'm also going to call the two shops tomorrow and see what they charge! 
Any idea where I can get restore locally, preferably on the southeast side of Houston - near Hobby Airport?


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## goodwood

No matter what you need to do a PROPER FLUSH. If you dont you new cooler will get plugged. That ford gold coolant sucks cause the silicates drop out and theres a lot of sand from the block casting and both form blockages in the cooling system. I bought my restores from cummins southern plains on the NE loop. You can order online. Im sure there are other truck shops that carry restore but i havent located it.

Pse has been repairing and modding for a long time. Theyve been in diesel power mag a couple times. I prefer ps magic. I think theyve been doing it longer. Garrett is a good guy, stays low pro and also gave me good deals on work. Even had my truck dynoed there. 

Just be prepared to replace that oil cooler but regardless you have to do the flush. A coolant filter is not a bad idea.


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## TxMav

If you haven't already, go here:

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum169/

It's a diesel forum for 6.4's. These guys are really helpful. Sign up and ask questions or just search 'oil cooler' and you'll find tons of info.

What goodwood is saying is pretty accurate IMO.


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## Ah Yeah

look on Powerstroke Army. plenty of write ups there.

and then hands down, call Powerstroke Enginuities. im sure they will have a long back-log though.


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## FISHINGARTIST

I have a 6.4 with 220,000 miles. All stock except for the dpf delete. Get it fixed with OEM parts and then delete it with NO horsepower tune. Keep the power stock or you'll have more problems. Especially if you tow. Buddy has same truck with same miles all stock. He has put $15,000 into repairs so far. The only way to stop the bleeding is to delete. The only thing I replaced in mine is suspension components and oil, fuel filters religiously. 2008 f250 4x4 towing 16000 lbs half the year for the last 8 years.


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## [email protected]

*The auto Shop*

PM sent


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## bigdaddyflo

So I have a coolant filter kit ordered and should be here Thursday. I will install that once I have it in hand and let it filter the system for a couple weeks to get some of the big stuff out. I purchased a gallon of Restore and a gallon Restore Plus from Cummins Southern Plains on the North East loop for right at $60 for both to do a proper flush and change my coolant to an ELC - I will do that in a couple weeks. I have also ordered two Fumoto valves to install on the block in order to do the flush correctly/quickly. If my EOT and ECT correlation/delta changes after I do the flush - good or bad - I will post in here in case someone else has a 6.4 that has this same issue. If it goes terribly bad, I am ready to do the oil cooler! Wish me luck!


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## goodwood

Good luck to you. Would be nice if that cooler came unplugged.


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## bigdaddyflo

*Oil Cooler still plugged - System is clean though!*

Drained the coolant out of the truck. Removed parts to get to the thermostats (Iâ€™m getting pretty good at removing them), removed, both thermostats, and reinstalled all those parts. 
Removed block drain plugs and installed Fumoto valves on both sides (passenger side requires starter removal/installation) and attached/ran 3/8" clear hose from each valve to the front of the truck to catch all the fluids in one location (see second picture). Did the high idle mod (SEIC - stationary engine idle control) which idles the truck at 1200 rpm.

Filled the system with regular water and started the truck. After 5 minutes, turned off the truck, drained that fluid at the radiator, block, radiator hose under front of block. Refilled the system with water and opened the Fumoto valves on the engine and ran the truck (son was in the truck to rev the engine) while keeping the degas filled with clean water to try and clear out some of the gunk that is in the block. Some metal chunks came out while doing this (see first picture). Drained the system. Closed the valves and put in 2 quarts of Restore while filling the system. Started the truck, turned on the SEIC (with heater on high) and ran for 90 minutes after it got to operating temps -took about 10 minutes in 90 degree weather to get to operating temp (above 185) - had to cover the radiator with a tarp. Turned off the truck, drained at all 4 locations. Filled with water and ran for 5 minutes - turned off the truck drained at all 4 locations - repeated the 5 minute flush 7 times. Pulled some nasty stuff out of the system (see third picture).

Then we did the Restore+ flush - same procedure as above except we used distilled water on the last three flushes to get the regular water out. I didn't see much stuff come out, but figured I may as well do this too - I can hear my dad saying "Do it right or don't do it at all!" The last flush was done at night, but we drained it in the morning - probably should have done this in one day, but it was almost midnight and my son and I were tired. But as you can see from the fifth picture, in my opinion, some rust was starting to develop due to the color change of the water and no antifreeze/protection in the system.

Next day, I installed a coolant filter on the truck, removed parts to get to the thermostat housing (did I mention Iâ€™m getting pretty good at removing them), installed both thermostats, and reinstalled all those parts. Put in 4 gallons of Zerez ELC concentrate and topped off with distilled water. Turned the truck on, purged the air out, got it up to operating temps/pressure. Checked for leaks and took the truck for a test drive. Sadly there were no improvements on the temperatures (see fifth picture).

However, the flush is done, and done correct. I have a sample of every flush/drain we did to see the change (see fourth picture). Fumoto valves are in, tubing is ran to the front of the truck and tucked away nicely, and has a coolant filtration system in place. Now off to the mechanic shop to install an oil cooler and do some other things! And I have 1/2 gallon of Restore and Restore+ if anyone is interested in buying it from me! Got to pay for an oil cooler!


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## surf_ox

Might also look at changing out inner cooler

I went with flo pro inner cooler. Wrench and sawzall and it was in.

Comparison. Notice the pinch.










Sawzall cut spot.










Finish










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Don't ever hesitate to try something new. Remember amateurs built the ARK and professionals built the TITANIC.


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## goodwood

Too bad on the oil cooler but at least you got out all the gunk.


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## bigdaddyflo

goodwood said:


> Too bad on the oil cooler but at least you got out all the gunk.


I was surprised at the stuff that came out of the block and what the Restore pulled out of the system. A combination of these two things is probably what plugged up the cooler. I have done my maintenance on this truck so I don't understand why it plugged up. I didn't see any casting sand, unless that was what was at the bottom of the 5 gallon bucket (by the penny). After a month of the coolant filter being on the truck, I'll post a picture of the stuff that comes out of it after I replace the filter.


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## bigdaddyflo

goodwood said:


> Too bad on the oil cooler but at least you got out all the gunk.


I was surprised at the stuff that came out of the block. That is probably what plugged up the cooler. I didn't see any casting sand, unless that was what was at the bottom of the 5 gallon bucket by the penny. I should have checked it with a magnet, but I didn't. After a month of the coolant filter being on the truck, I'll post a picture of the stuff that comes out of it after I replace the filter.


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## bigdaddyflo

*Oil Filter Replacement*

I am posting my findings after pulling the coolant filter. I have had it in almost 1 month, and have over 1,000 miles on it. I dumped the fluid and stuff out of the filter. There was some soft scale looking stuff and some black pieces of stuff (don't know what it is). Both of these were soft and broke apart easily by rubbing it with my fingers. There was some sand in the filter as well and some small/tiny black metal pieces - they were picked up with a magnet.
I cut open the filter and there seemed to be some sort of gel in the filter. maybe this is still coming out of the oil cooler. There were also some black pieces of stuff -which was soft and easily dissolved once it was rubbed between my fingers.
I will check the next filter in 3 months (this is what is recommended by the filter manufacturer).
As a side note, my difference in temperatures is around 11 degrees on my 15 mile trip to work. On longer trips, it is around 16 degrees. So the flush helped a little, but not quite as good as a new oil cooler. I have not had the "wrench" light come back on and will monitor temperatures as the filter is allowed to filter the coolant. My theory is that the pieces of gunk that are caught in the oil cooler are slowly coming out and getting caught in the coolant filter - or at least I hope so!


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## FISHINGARTIST

That's a lot of stuff being collected. Maybe the inside of coolant hoses are deteriorating, hard to know until they go. Great report. Hows the delete running for you?


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## bigdaddyflo

FISHINGARTIST said:


> That's a lot of stuff being collected. Maybe the inside of coolant hoses are deteriorating, hard to know until they go. Great report. Hows the delete running for you?


Sadly, I haven't had a chance to do the delete yet!


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## PopArcher

bigdaddyflo said:


> Have any of you had a plugged oil cooler on the 6.4 and replaced it yourself, if so, how hard is it to do? Or do you know of a good repair shop that will guarantee their work. I am in Deer Park and I've been quoted right at $3000 from ford to do the repair (the oil cooler is roughly $350) and seems like a lot of money for this repair - but if you have ever looked under the hood of these trucks, you'll see all kinds of things packed under the hood and the mechanics earn their money. I normally do the work on this truck myself, but don't want to mess the truck up since I am going into the unknown. Oil cooler is under everything, right on top of the intake - engineers should be shot for doing that ****! My deltas are right at 15-20 degrees between the ECT and EOT.
> The truck is stock with 145,000 miles and I found a shop that quoted me $4,500 to replace the oil cooler, delete the egr, dpf, and new coolant filter, plus a mild tune. May go this route unless someone can direct me in other direction.


Might try Chris at Power Stroke Diesel in Baytown, 832 597 6986 and see what he can do.


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## bigdaddyflo

PopArcher said:


> Might try Chris at Power Stroke Diesel in Baytown, 832 597 6986 and see what he can do.


Called, them and they are in the middle of a move.


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