# 7.3 goes dud



## mas360 (Nov 21, 2006)

My F250 with 7.3 engine suddenly stalled while rolling along at 30mph on a busy street. I could not restart it. I turned off and turned back on the ignition key and while there were indicator lights on the panel, the usual WAIT TO START light did not come on. 

I thought it was the all too familiar CPS problem. When it was towed to the shop, the tech told me he could not read any codes at all ????? he had no idea what was the issue after he put in a new CPS (a spare I always carry along in the truck) and still could not start it up since the analyzer did not come up with any code. 

So, I now have to consult with wise men on 2cool. What do you think is the issue? 

By the way, while I was sitting in the stalled truck with the hood raised blocking traffic waiting for the tow truck, every few minutes someone would pull right up a foot or two away from my rear fender despite of my distress blinking signals were on. Almost every single one of these drivers were busy yepping on their cell phones. 

I thought to myself, if I ever get stalled on freeway, I'd turn on the distress blinking lights and get the heck out of the vehicle looking for shelter as I am sure someone is going to rear end me at 65 mph. So many drivers could not even notice the distress signal on a busy street at 30 mph, they definitely would not be able to brake in time to avoid collision when they finally realized my vehicle was stalled and not moving.


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## sotexhookset (Jun 4, 2011)

If not the cam sensor I wouldn't have a clue because I'm as mechanically inclined with diesels as piece of squirrel **** but stupid as it sounds you may want to check your oil level. Safety shut down on 7.3 I've had happen then check batteries. Again sounds lame but have been there with trucks before. Should be the first go to with your mechanic.


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## mas360 (Nov 21, 2006)

I did not check the oil level but did check the battery this morning. I had the charger on all night to make sure it was fully charged since the morning was going to be in the upper 30's. Battery voltage was 13.1V this morning.


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## jwales (Dec 25, 2012)

Yes, low oil pressure will kill it instantly....will then turn over but not crank.


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## DA REEL DADDY (Jun 7, 2005)

How about fuel filter..., Is it clear and clean?


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## mas360 (Nov 21, 2006)

Fuel filter was replaced 2K miles ago.

Since the WAIT TO START ENGINE light did not light up as it should, I suspect fuel starvation due to dirty filter is not the culprit.


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## mas360 (Nov 21, 2006)

jwales said:


> Yes, low oil pressure will kill it instantly....will then turn over but not crank.


How does low oil pressure take place? oil pump failed?

I looked around under the hood and did not see any sign of oil residues due to oil line cracking/breaking.


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## jwales (Dec 25, 2012)

Low oil level.....most likely HPOP O-rings leaking. Check ur oil level, and if low, see if oil is puddled between heads with a flashlight.


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## DA REEL DADDY (Jun 7, 2005)

If you hadn't try reading this thread...

http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/general-diesel-discussion/124998-7-3-stalls-while-driving.html


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## tooshallow17 (Apr 10, 2009)

Do you have an aftermarket chip?


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## TunnelVision (Aug 16, 2005)

Google no wait to start light and there are a bunch of posts.


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## CaptainJMB (Nov 28, 2008)

Those are mechanically fired injectors. I've seen the same, oil get to bottom of stick and truck just STOP......check hpop ( high pressure oil pump) someone correct me - but doesn't it put out like 15k psi? Or higher? 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## TIMBOv2 (Mar 18, 2010)

Sounds like something with the computer if the mechanic can't pull any codes out of it. Yes low oil pressure will kill it and keep it from starting but I think you could still be able to pull codes off the computer.


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## Friendswoodmatt (Feb 22, 2005)

my guess ECU fried or not getting power?
http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/99-f250-7-3l-cranks-but-wont-start-304999/


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## Bassman5119 (Feb 26, 2008)

Dont forget about the fuel pickup tube in the tank. These will fall off, and into the tank, no longer picking up low level fuel like it used to. I used to get 20 or so miles after my low fuel light came on, now maybe 1 or 2 miles. Happened to a buddy the other day and he remembered what I told him. Saved him big towing and mechaninc money. He put diesel in and was on his way.

Now, no codes and no "wait to start" light is odd and not fuel related. Sounds like the majority of SME's here are thinking oil. Good luck and please post up when you find out what it is. I may be next. Thx.


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## Chuck (May 21, 2004)

You mentioned fuel filter was replaced a bit ago. You might try priming the fuel system again and trying to start it. My chevy diesel did that to me not too long after I had my first fuel filter changed. it would somehow loose the "prime" every now and then, it might run fine for months but then fail to start, just turning over and over. After it did this a few times, I replaced the filter again and it has been fine since. Worth a shot since it easy and free. Prime the system good with the little hand pump and try starting it again.
Good luck.


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## sotexhookset (Jun 4, 2011)

Bassman5119 said:


> Dont forget about the fuel pickup tube in the tank. These will fall off, and into the tank, no longer picking up low level fuel like it used to. I used to get 20 or so miles after my low fuel light came on, now maybe 1 or 2 miles. Happened to a buddy the other day and he remembered what I told him. Saved him big towing and mechaninc money. He put diesel in and was on his way.
> 
> Now, no codes and no "wait to start" light is odd and not fuel related. Sounds like the majority of SME's here are thinking oil. Good luck and please post up when you find out what it is. I may be next. Thx.


This too. We've got a an old beat up 99' we'll use as a back up to run deliveries if needed and once that light comes on that's it. Started doing it a few of years ago and the usual/ long time guys know not to take it out of the yard without at least a quarter of a tank to get to the Pilot station down the street. Can't count the times, that I know of, that someone green or just not paying attention has "broke down" not knowing what happened.


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## DeerSlayer (May 7, 2008)

*Diesel bombers.com*

Hey bud,
I would think possibly the HPOP...I had a 6.0 and have had EVERY problem you could think of with the Ford Diesel engine. It was a NIGHTMARE!!! But, the 7.3L is a true legend...It is the best diesel engine Ford has come out with...a true work horse!

I go to Dieselbombers.com...there are a bunch of diesel owners on that board and diesel mechanics that talk about these types of problems and offer suggestions. This site has been a very good site and has helped me out with a bunch of problems I was having with the 6.0L.

Try Dieselbombers.com....you wont be dissapointed.
Good luck,
hope it works out,
Joe


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## bruteman (Dec 8, 2006)

Make sure your fuel pump is working, it is on the drivers side frame. Had one go out on a 99 powerstroke, no check engine lights nothing. just died and wouldnt restart.


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## Hueyfisher (May 28, 2006)

*Just happened to me a couple of months ago!*

So my 7.3 has 195K on it. I have done very little to it except for a tune, exhaust, and air intake as well as basic maintenance.

I was running along about 65 mph in north Texas and all of the sudden I just seemed to lose power, I glided along and ended up on the highway about 4o minutes from my destination.

I showed to have some fuel in the tank so I was thinking something ignition wise, or fuel pump related...and was going to call for a tow..

Instead, a buddy drove down to where I was(40miles) and brought 5 gallons of fuel, he had the same thing happen to him, fuel in the tank but wouldn't run. I added the fuel to the tank and it was a little rough to start, but after a couple of minutes the idle came back, and 5 miles later it was running like a champ. Filled it up at the next station, and even with just putting around 4 gallons in it, it was still almost dry.

My situation may have just been that over time my fuel gauge has changed as it has gotten older, not sure. But his issue was his lift pump starting to go out, so when he had 5 gallons or close to a quarter tank, his truck wouldn't start, so he had to change it.

Long story short, it could be as simple as a bad gauge showing fuel when you are empty, you could be low on fuel and have a bad lift pump. Or it could a few things mechanical all fuel related. And finally it could be electrical, but if electrical you would get a code, lift pump throws a code too from what I was told. So I would focus on fuel first...

Good luck, and the Powerstroke forum is a great place to start, and it is also a good place to find an exerienced local diesel mechanic...


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## HTownBoi281 (May 13, 2006)

shot in the dark cause i dont know if ur truck is a timing belt or timing chain but maybe timing belt broke?? usually when it breaks u can crank the motor but it wont run.

had that happen to me in my old honda accord. luckily i'd just exited off I-10 on Dairy Ashford when it broke and I coasted to the light off the side. It happened at night so there wasnt a crazy amount of traffic. Called the pops and he came with a tow chain and pulled it home not too far away and found out the next day by a mechanic that the timing belt broke and me not knowing the timing belt broke, i tried to restart it a couple times and ended up doing something to the head and they had to machine it flat again. costed a good $1200 to fix only to last me another month before she got tired and blew up. Junk yard it went.


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## aguaflaca (Aug 11, 2005)

F ound
O n
R oad
D ead

sorry, I had to say it, nobody else did.


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## james hines (Nov 21, 2006)

my truck did the same,check your fuses under the hood,it should be a 30 amp,i believe it is number 20 ,it feeds your fuel heater ,ECU,mine was fried,if that is the problem it's not cheap,


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## mas360 (Nov 21, 2006)

tooshallow17 said:


> Do you have an aftermarket chip?


No, it is all stock. No mod done to boost performance at all.

Low fuel is not the issue. The tank is 80% full by my own record keeping. I always zero odometer after a fill up.

If lift pump fails, would that generate code?

One thing I forgot to mention. In the morning the truck could not start, so, this WAS THE FIRST TIME EVER I powered up the engine block heater with 120VAC home utility power. Does this have any possible bearing to the dud?

I am thinking of purchasing a scanner and learn to use it. Do you have any recommendation for a scanner I should get given I have zero hands on experience with it ?
Thanks everybody for your advices/input. I'll keep you posted.


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## marshhunter (Mar 20, 2008)

mas360 said:


> My F250 with 7.3 engine suddenly stalled while rolling along at 30mph on a busy street. I could not restart it. I turned off and turned back on the ignition key and while there were indicator lights on the panel, the usual WAIT TO START light did not come on.
> 
> I thought it was the all too familiar CPS problem. When it was towed to the shop, the tech told me he could not read any codes at all ????? he had no idea what was the issue after he put in a new CPS (a spare I always carry along in the truck) and still could not start it up since the analyzer did not come up with any code.
> 
> ...


if you go through all other things the people have been posting, id stick another cps on it. i had a sensor that was bad from the factory. just an idea.. also have you checked the fuses for instrument cluster? do all of the other lights come on? does it just click when trying to start or does the motor just spin?


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## james hines (Nov 21, 2006)

if you don't have a "wait to start light" an can not pull up any codes then odds are you lost power to your PCM,a bad fuel filter an low oil is not a cause to lose your 'wait to start or codes.


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## surf_ox (Jul 8, 2008)

7.3 have 2 sets of codes...

the usually obdii codes..cheap reader

and some other engine specific ones that are laptop specific with a program and cable


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## rippin lips (Jan 8, 2005)

Check glow plug relay also. Mine back fed into ecu. Fried it out.
Call this man he can hook you up. 
Robert Delerosa. 281-642-3055


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## mas360 (Nov 21, 2006)

rippin lips said:


> Check glow plug relay also. Mine back fed into ecu. Fried it out.
> Call this man he can hook you up.
> Robert Delerosa. 281-642-3055


I don't think it could be GPR and/or glow plug. I drove it four miles before it stalled. Engine temperature was in normal range. The glow plug and relay are critical only when engine is cold.


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## rippin lips (Jan 8, 2005)

Yes but mine shorted out at idle in driveway. Robert is a psd guru give him a call b


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## mas360 (Nov 21, 2006)

surf_ox said:


> 7.3 have 2 sets of codes...
> 
> the usually obdii codes..cheap reader
> 
> and *some other engine specific ones that are laptop specific with a program and cable*


Does that mean I do not need a code reader? all I need is a laptop program and cable....where can I find them at?

Thanks


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## wiltray4000 (Sep 16, 2010)

I'm no mechanic, but no one has mentioned faulty battery connections or cables.


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## Y-Not (Sep 14, 2012)

We need to go back to the very beginning. By"not being able to get codes" Does that mean that he can not communicate with the computer? Or that there are no trouble codes present? This is a very important question that need's answering.


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## Seeker (Jul 6, 2009)

Billwill555 said:


> I'm no mechanic, but no one has mentioned faulty battery connections or cables.


This is where I would have started. No codes tells me the computer is not reading. But that's just me.


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## sweenyite (Feb 22, 2009)

My 6.0 did the same thing, ended up being the FICM (Fuel Injection Control Module) and the high pressure oil regulator was bad.


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## sweenyite (Feb 22, 2009)

aguaflaca said:


> F ound
> O n
> R oad
> D ead
> ...


 What a d-bag post. Any machine can break down regardless of who built it. Nobody likes unfunny humor when their truck is broke down. Unless of course you're offering to go help him fix it.


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## mas360 (Nov 21, 2006)

Y-Not said:


> We need to go back to the very beginning. By"not being able to get codes" Does that mean that he can not communicate with the computer? Or that there are no trouble codes present? This is a very important question that need's answering.


The first mechanic who plugged in his Harbor Freight grade code reader and it showed a bunch of number 5.4, 4.2, which I had no clue as I have never owned one. I asked him one question and he got nasty with me saying I was there watching in comfort while he busted his behind working. I told him, yes, I can appreciate it and I PAY YOU FOR THE JOB and I have the right to ask questions. You are not working for free...if you want to get comfortable you can walk off your job, go home and be comfortable. I knew he got nasty because he had no clue what he was doing. I told the shop owner to take him off my vehicle. As a paying customer I did not have room for rude service provider, period. 
The second mechanic had a very nice looking reader but after awhile he said he could not pull any code out of the PCM. At least this man talked like a normal person even though his explanation was vague and did not make sense to me.

There was power, starter did turn but engine would not start. The biggest item boggling my mind was the absence of that WAIT TO START signal not lighting up as it should be.

Batteries are less than three months old. In the morning I checked with a multimeter before starting up engine. It read 13.1V. All connectors and cables were checked and all functioned well.


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## mstrelectricman (Jul 10, 2009)

I didn't read all these but if you have no codes the computer has lost power. Check fuses and make sure the switched fuse block has power with the ignition switch on.


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## sweenyite (Feb 22, 2009)

Renegade Diesel in West Columbia does good work on PSD's. Gabe used to work for Ford and when he hooks up his laptop, he'll pull all the ghost codes that the code readers at regular shops won't get. He can tell you exactly what is wrong with your Powerstroke and the price to fix it will be fair. 979-345-4350
I won't trust anyone else with my truck unless I'm out of town and have a problem. A shop in Pearland swore up and down my high pressure oil pump was shot and wanted $2,300 to swap it out. Had it towed to Renegade and it was the high pressureoil regulator and the FICM and I was out the door for a little over $500.


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## mas360 (Nov 21, 2006)

sweenyite said:


> Renegade Diesel in West Columbia does good work on PSD's. Gabe used to work for Ford and when he hooks up his laptop, he'll pull all the ghost codes that the code readers at regular shops won't get. He can tell you exactly what is wrong with your Powerstroke and the price to fix it will be fair. 979-345-4350
> I won't trust anyone else with my truck unless I'm out of town and have a problem. A shop in Pearland swore up and down my high pressure oil pump was shot and wanted $2,300 to swap it out. Had it towed to Renegade and *it was the high pressureoil regulator and the FICM* and I was out the door for a little over $500.


His laptop told him right off these two components malfunctioned?


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## mas360 (Nov 21, 2006)

mstrelectricman said:


> I didn't read all these but if you have no codes the computer has lost power. Check fuses and make sure the switched fuse block has power with the ignition switch on.


All indicator lights on driver's panel came on when ignition key was turned on. The only thing missing was WAIT TO START indicator light.

Does that confirm fuse was not blown?


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## Super Dave (May 26, 2004)

Is the "shop" you took the truck to a ford dealer? Service depts usually have a pretty good head diesel technician who is trained and certified by Ford. If you haven't done that yet, tow the truck to a dealer.


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## mstrelectricman (Jul 10, 2009)

If switched loads like turn signals and radio are working when the key is the on position then youatleast have power to that fuse block. It could still be no power to the computer.


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## surf_ox (Jul 8, 2008)

mas360 said:


> Does that mean I do not need a code reader? all I need is a laptop program and cable....where can I find them at?
> 
> Thanks


sorry re-read my post...it was a little confusing

a simple obdii code reader will read some of the code the computer with throw.

then there is a deeper tool used to diagnose powerestroke specific issues

http://www.autoenginuity.com/products/scan-tool.html

heres good description

AE can run the various tests that are required to diagnose your truck. Code readers and tuners only read codes which will help, but may not solve the the problem. AE can pull live data from all the sensors and really helps when troubleshooting. The testing varies depending on what vehicle you use it on. Your PS often requires the injector buzz test as well as cylinder contribution. There are many others that can be run. It also has the ability to change the speedometer for larger tires. Really it is the best deal out there.


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## ChuChu (Jan 23, 2010)

Dual tanks? Mine did that on the Katy freeway once and it was the fuel pickup tube broke off and couldn't pick up any fuel. Gauge showed 1/4 tank. I switched to the other tank and it started right up.


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## mas360 (Nov 21, 2006)

ChuChu said:


> Dual tanks? Mine did that on the Katy freeway once and it was the fuel pickup tube broke off and couldn't pick up any fuel. Gauge showed 1/4 tank. I switched to the other tank and it started right up.


No, it is single tank, no mods done to it.


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## Hooked (Oct 15, 2004)

You might try releasing air/fuel at the schrader valve on the fuel filter housing to see if you are getting fuel to the injector pump. 
The only times my 7.3 has died while underway was the result of either bad/clogged fuel/water separator filter or lack of fuel in the tank. Both my tanks had the pickup tube problem mentioned earlier. The tube breaks and will not pick up fuel when the tanks gets to about 1/4 tank. However, you mentioned you have about 3/4 tank.

The 'wait to start' light not working may be a bad glow plug relay. Over on the dieselstop forums there are some good threads about testing the relay and other components of the fuel system.

Hope you get it corrected soon. I know how frustrating there type problems can be.


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## surf_ox (Jul 8, 2008)

Hooked said:


> You might try releasing air/fuel at the schrader valve on the fuel filter housing to see if you are getting fuel to the injector pump.
> The only times my 7.3 has died while underway was the result of either bad/clogged fuel/water separator filter or lack of fuel in the tank. Both my tanks had the pickup tube problem mentioned earlier. The tube breaks and will not pick up fuel when the tanks gets to about 1/4 tank. However, you mentioned you have about 3/4 tank.
> 
> The 'wait to start' light not working may be a bad glow plug relay. Over on the dieselstop forums there are some good threads about testing the relay and other components of the fuel system.
> ...


that valve is yellow in color on the back of the fuel filter housing.


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## mas360 (Nov 21, 2006)

Hooked said:


> You might try releasing air/fuel at the schrader valve on the fuel filter housing to see if you are getting fuel to the injector pump.
> *The only times my 7.3 has died while underway was the result of either bad/clogged fuel/water separator filter or lack of fuel in the tank.* Both my tanks had the pickup tube problem mentioned earlier. The tube breaks and will not pick up fuel when the tanks gets to about 1/4 tank. However, you mentioned you have about 3/4 tank.
> 
> The 'wait to start' light not working may be a bad glow plug relay. Over on the dieselstop forums there are some good threads about testing the relay and other components of the fuel system.
> ...


Did you notice any advance warning before it went dead? a decrease in performance, hard to start, poor acceleration?

In my case it was going just like it had been and then suddenly without warning it dropped dead.


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## james hines (Nov 21, 2006)

mas360 said:


> Did you notice any advance warning before it went dead? a decrease in performance, hard to start, poor acceleration?
> 
> In my case it was going just like it had been and then suddenly without warning it dropped dead.


that's exactly what mine did,i was doing 40 an like I turn the key off.Pulled over an tried to start an noticed it would crank but no wait to start light,I started checking fuses an found my fuel heater PCM fuse blown,mine was the wiring harness had smoked an shorted together.


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## aguaflaca (Aug 11, 2005)

aguaflaca said:


> F ound
> O n
> R oad
> D ead
> ...





sweenyite said:


> What a d-bag post. Any machine can break down regardless of who built it. Nobody likes unfunny humor when their truck is broke down. Unless of course you're offering to go help him fix it.


My post was meant to be a joke and I'm sorry it wasn't taken that way. And yes, any machine can break down. But, if it were my Dodge or somebody else's GM that broke, a lot of these Ford guys would be the first to say "should have bought a Ford" or "what do you expect from Government Motors". 
once again I apologize and to the OP, I hope you solve your problem.


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## Hooked (Oct 15, 2004)

mas360 said:


> Did you notice any advance warning before it went dead? a decrease in performance, hard to start, poor acceleration?
> 
> In my case it was going just like it had been and then suddenly without warning it dropped dead.


Never a warning when the filter is shot. It'll simply die driving down the road. I do get a couple seconds warning when the fuel gets below the pickup tube. Just long enough for me to switch tanks..........lol Assuming, of course, the other tank has plenty of fuel in it.


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## Forty (May 7, 2013)

Check in the fuse box under the hood for a blown 30a maxi fuse. If ya find a bad one unplug the black wire with the green tracer at the fuel filter housing (it's the fuel bowl pre heater). Replace the blown maxi fuse with another 30a fuse. Just went through this in December. Had no wait to start light and a no start condition.


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## bk005 (Feb 23, 2005)

I would buy the auto engenuity scanner I really like them, then see what it pulls and run the on board diagnostics. Then you can roll it over look for IHOP and Icp valve function. Before I put anything but a cps and basic fuel delivery checks invest in the scanner and save time and money replacing parts and chasing ghosts. Good luck.


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## HillCountry Hunter (Apr 9, 2009)

Sounds like a bad wiring harness


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## xp22 (Jul 20, 2012)

I haven't seen your answer yet, or maybe I missed it but have you checked the oil level as some suggested?


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## goodwood (Mar 30, 2009)

change out the blinker fluid.


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## xp22 (Jul 20, 2012)

another good source of info is ford-trucks.com and go o the 7.3 forum.


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## bentman (Jul 23, 2007)

if you are anywhere close to pasadena take it to TRM they are really good mechanics


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## El Ahogo (Mar 14, 2010)

bentman said:


> if you are anywhere close to pasadena take it to trm they are really good mechanics


 ^^^^^^^^^^^ what he said. Todd knows his shizzle!!


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## BlueSea (Aug 7, 2013)

*Fuel Heater*

My 99 F250 was blowing fuel heater fuses and finally learned I could simplu UNPLUG it from the back side of the fuel filter housing.
dont need it anyway down here.
No prob ever since


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## goodwood (Mar 30, 2009)

a buddy of mine had to replace his fusebox recently on his 7.3 for no start problems.


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## mas360 (Nov 21, 2006)

So, here is the latest with the truck. The tech ran the analyzer and this is the readout he gave me: 

P0500 VSS
U2015 Missing Data from NGV
B1203 Fuel sender circuit short to battery
B1201 Fuel sender circuit fail
B1342 ECM Internal Fault (Defective)
B1318 Battery volt too low
B1484 Brake pedal input circuit fail

Holy cow, I thought...this many errors? are they related to each other? which one killed the engine?
The two Duragold batteries are 3 months old ! 
The tech said he suspected the issue was with the oil pump/pumps.

Does that rhymthe with the codes above?


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## mstrelectricman (Jul 10, 2009)

The battery low volt needs to be investigated first. Need to do a load test on those, one could be bad and causing havoc with the electrical systems.


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## Y-Not (Sep 14, 2012)

Now the question is, what codes are active codes and what codes are history. For example, the B1318 could have happened when you changed the batteries. I would not worry with this one at all. Your truck probly dosn't have a NGV, fuel sender circuits will not shut you down and niether will the brake peddle circuit. Now google B1342 and take it from there. Has your mechanic not talked to you about the truck at all? He does not seem very helpful or knowlegeble.


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## Hooked (Oct 15, 2004)

I'm with electricman. First thing I'd do is take the batteries to have them load tested. No just the little handheld tester at the auto parts store.


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## kneekap (Nov 13, 2012)

So sorry you are having probs with that thing. My neighbor disconnects his batteries every night and reconnects in the morning so they won't go dead. He has been to several mechanics also with no resolution to his difficulties. You DO need a rocket scientist to fix that machine.


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## sweenyite (Feb 22, 2009)

mas360 said:


> So, here is the latest with the truck. The tech ran the analyzer and this is the readout he gave me:
> 
> P0500 VSS
> U2015 Missing Data from NGV
> ...


 In my case, they thought it was the high pressure oil pump. Those oil pumps are pretty bullet proof. Turned out to be the high pressure oil regulator. (and the FICM)


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## Mako232 (Sep 16, 2005)

I had a pair of Duragold batteries go out after 3 months in my 7.3, as mentioned start with the batteries.


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## reload56 (Apr 6, 2012)

I had a similar experience with my GMC diesel , I took it to TRM in Pasadena and Todd found a bad connection on the oil sending unit that was not allowing it to run. He has all my business now since he did not gouge me for a new oil pump.


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## Retired Hazmat (Jul 31, 2011)

My Brother had a 7.3 he had trouble with alternators. His tech called it dirty voltage. Just before he got his new truck, he had similar issue and had to replace both batteries and alternator. 
Good luck


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## rew4 (Mar 8, 2005)

*I know this sounds retarded but*

I know this sounds retarded but, my 97 F350 does this from time to time.

back when I first got it, in 2007 it sat for 4 weeks while I did what you are doing.

Then one day like poof,, went out and the wait to start light came on and fired right up.

It still has the same problem and may dye on the road but it will normally start back up and go in a few minuets.

I checked all the web forms, talked to 4 different Ford dealerships, begged for help online, all to no end.

My wife loves the truck and she can get it running by going out and pecking on the main brain on the left side under the hood in the firewall.

That don't work for me? I just slam the door a few times and away we go.

So it is probably in a wiring harness as I have checked all the connectors you can get to.

Good luck and IF you find the problem PLEASE let me know.


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## mas360 (Nov 21, 2006)

Mako232 said:


> I had a pair of Duragold batteries go out after 3 months in my 7.3, as mentioned start with the batteries.


I purchased two Duragold batteries 9 months ago. One went dead and the other was weak six months later. I took it back and got new replacement, which are on the truck at this time. The replacement is only 3 months old.

Could it be horrible luck and coincidence on my part to get two set of bad batteries in a row? I always had good performance and life expectancy with Duragold in the past on all of my vehicles.


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## EN1 (Nov 5, 2013)

Vehicle Application: 2001 F-250 Super Duty 7.3 2002 F-350 Super Duty 7.3 2002 F-250 Super Duty 7.3 2002 F-450 Super Duty 7.3 2003 F-250 Super Duty 7.3 2003 F-450 Super Duty 7.3 2001 F-350 Super Duty 7.3 2002 F-550 Super Duty 7.3 Customer Concern: The engine will not start. The Wait to Start light on the dash will not come on and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) will not communicate with a scanner.

Average Reported Mileage: 184920 
Tests/Procedures: 1. Access the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and check for an aftermarket performance chip installed. If installed, remove and recheck operation. If the problem is solved, leave the chip removed or replace with a new part.

2. If no chip is installed, or removing it does not help, check fuse #22 20A in the Central Junction Box (CJB) (interior fuse panel) to make sure it shows full battery voltage on both sides from the PCM power relay. If OK, check pins 71 and 97 Red wires at the PCM connector to be sure they are both full battery voltage with key on from fuse #22.

3. If the powers are OK, check for 5 V reference voltage (vref) on the Brown/White (BR/WH) wire at pin 90 of the PCM or at any of the three wire sensors under the hood with key on and the PCM connected. If the voltage is low, disconnect the Injection Control Pressure (ICP) sensor, exhaust backpressure sensor, Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor, Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) sensor, and camshaft position sensor one at a time to see if one is shorted and pulling the voltage down. If disconnecting any of the sensors causes the 5 V to return, replace the shorted sensor.

4. If disconnecting all sensors does not affect the vref, cut the wire near the PCM and recheck out of the PCM. If 5 V is now present, locate and repair the short to ground on the BR/WH wire.

5. If the powers to the PCM and the vref voltage is OK at 5 V, check all of the PCM grounds. These are pins 51, 77 and 103 Black/White (BK/W) wires and pin 25 Light Blue/Yellow (LB/Y) wire. Repair any circuit as needed and recheck operation.


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## surf_ox (Jul 8, 2008)

^^^^ should cover it


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## mas360 (Nov 21, 2006)

EN1 said:


> Vehicle Application: 2001 F-250 Super Duty 7.3 2002 F-350 Super Duty 7.3 2002 F-250 Super Duty 7.3 2002 F-450 Super Duty 7.3 2003 F-250 Super Duty 7.3 2003 F-450 Super Duty 7.3 2001 F-350 Super Duty 7.3 2002 F-550 Super Duty 7.3 Customer Concern: The engine will not start. The Wait to Start light on the dash will not come on and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) will not communicate with a scanner.
> 
> Average Reported Mileage: 184920
> Tests/Procedures: 1. Access the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and check for an aftermarket performance chip installed. If installed, remove and recheck operation. If the problem is solved, leave the chip removed or replace with a new part.
> ...


Wow...the details look awesome. Is this from a Ford procedure manual?

The truck is stock. No chip or performance booster was ever installed. It has 138K miles. A lot of folks on Ford forum say the ECM/PCM is pretty much bullet proof. Is that correct?

I took the truck in this morning to an AAA shop, which is highly recommended. While I cannot run this procedure myself, it definitely gave me an education on how to systematically check for failure. Thanks a bunch....

I am holding my breadth waiting for a diagnostic report from the shop. If the shop says the ECM needs replacement, what should I ask to make sure it is necessary to replace it?


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## mas360 (Nov 21, 2006)

The shop just called. They found fuse #30 malfunction. They replaced that fuse and re-programmed the PCM. Truck now runs. The bill is $200. 

Thanks everyone for your advices. I greatly appreciate EN1's procedure instruction. I printed it out and kept it in my F250 notebook....:smile:


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## Hooked (Oct 15, 2004)

Good deal. Glad you finally got it fixed and at a reasonable price.


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## EN1 (Nov 5, 2013)

Good deal I am glad you fixed it. I own an auto repair shop and subscribe to the website this info came from. Glad you got it going...


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## Mojo281 (Sep 7, 2006)

Had a like scenario happen to me.... Took them forever to figure out that my fuel pump imploded!!


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## sweenyite (Feb 22, 2009)

Good deal! Glad you're back on the road!


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## mas360 (Nov 21, 2006)

sweenyite said:


> Good deal! Glad you're back on the road!


The fuse was $4 and labor was $200.
They cannot tell me why the fuse blew. That means the fix is only for the symptom not the cause. I am going to buy a few of these fuses and keep them in the glove box. If one blows every 1,000 miles I'd consider the fuse as consumables...:headknock


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## Hooked (Oct 15, 2004)

mas360 said:


> The fuse was $4 and labor was $200.
> .:headknock


Funny you say that. I was listening to Skeeter on his Car Doctor program Saturday afternoon when he mentioned something similar. Seems they had a vehicle in some years back and it took them several hours to trace the culprit to something similar. Distribution of part and labor costs were about the same. Diagnosis is not so easy on cars these days.

Again, glad you have it fixed and hope it doesn't come back anytime soon. Hopefully, this isn't simply the result and not the original cause. Good luck!!


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## EN1 (Nov 5, 2013)

The fuse blew because something that runs on that circuit drew to much amperage
Make sure you know what fuse it was so you can replace it.
If it is not blowing now the problem is not there and no one can find it.
If they reflashed your pcm that is 150 bucks worth right there. What year is this truck 
And what fuse box underdash or in the engine compartment


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## JohnHumbert (May 21, 2004)

Same exact problem. I have a 2001 7.3 (excursion). Batteries running down, #30 fuse blowing, etc. after replacing batteries, wiring harness, the problem went away - but there is still a minor short /drain somewhere. This is now a secondary vehicle and if I don't drive it at least once a week, the batteries start to drain. No one has been able to trace the short.


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## REEL CRAZY (Dec 21, 2005)

JohnHumbert said:


> Same exact problem. I have a 2001 7.3 (excursion). Batteries running down, #30 fuse blowing, etc. after replacing batteries, wiring harness, the problem went away - but there is still a minor short /drain somewhere. This is now a secondary vehicle and if I don't drive it at least once a week, the batteries start to drain. No one has been able to trace the short.


Mine did the same thing. It checked out good on the clamp meter but still went dead within 3 or 4 days. It turned out to be a bad terminal on the right side positive cable.


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## mas360 (Nov 21, 2006)

EN1 said:


> The fuse blew because something that runs on that circuit drew to much amperage
> Make sure you know what fuse it was so you can replace it.
> If it is not blowing now the problem is not there and no one can find it.
> If they reflashed your pcm that is 150 bucks worth right there. What year is this truck
> And what fuse box underdash or in the engine compartment


The service manager said it was fuse #38. I looked up in manual and #38 did not control the PCM, it controlled the trailer tow backup lamp relay.

It is #30 in the fuse box underdash AND also in the engine compartment.

The PCM reflash was to update the TBS. I could not tell any difference in truck performance with this new update.

Several people on Ford forums told me they had same problem and it was traced to the fuel bowl heater failing, which caused fuse #30 to blow. The suggested remedy was to disconnect this fuel bowl heater.


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## BlueSea (Aug 7, 2013)

*and the winner is!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!*



BlueSea said:


> My 99 F250 was blowing fuel heater fuses and finally learned I could simplu UNPLUG it from the back side of the fuel filter housing.
> dont need it anyway down here.
> No prob ever since


 I called it from the start did that to mine last year at 458K miles
Now at 509K hasn't missed a lick since


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## mas360 (Nov 21, 2006)

BlueSea said:


> I called it from the start did that to mine last year at 458K miles
> Now at 509K hasn't missed a lick since


Was it fuse #30 blown in your case?

I'll have to look for that thing and unplug it. How did yours do when temperature was into the 40's? I noticed this problem took place after I had a heck of hard time starting the truck and had to recharge batteries several times despite of the batteries were barely four months old. Perhaps the cold temperature caused it to overdraw and thus melted the fuse?


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## EN1 (Nov 5, 2013)

1999 F-250 Super Duty 7.3 1999 F-550 Super Duty 7.3
1999 F-350 Super Duty 7.3	
Customer Concern:	
Fuse 30 in the underdash fuse box is blowing immediately. If the PCM diode in the underhood fuse box is removed, the fuse still blows. 
Average Reported Mileage:	
221663 
Tests/Procedures:	
1. First reference the underdash and underhood fuse box layouts to ensure you are on the same fuse as this archive, and to be sure you removed the correct diode. 

2. Once you verified your concern is the same as this archive, unplug the fuel heater first, see the attached photo location of the fuel heater. If the short is gone, replace the heater, see the attached procedure to replace the heater. 

3. If the short is still present, access and unplug the wastegate control solenoid, if the short is gone, replace the solenoid. See the attached location. 

4. If the short is still present, access and inspect connectors 138 and 1049. Both locations are attached. Pay special attention to 138, many times wires will rub on the valve cover in that area. Unplugging each connector to see which one gets rid of the short will help isolate where the Red and Light Green wire is shorted. 

The fuel heater seems to be the most likely cause from what I am seeing and the fact that it had hard start issues cold would increase my suspicion of this part. 
Connector 138 referenced is directly behind the alternator going across the left(drivers side) valve cover. 1049 is under the dash and is less likely to have problems. this will only do you any good if the short comes back and stays there long enough to find the problem. As far as the Reflash you will not see or feel any major improvement or decline on performance. These reprogramming procedures are to fix and adjust problems after the 
vehicle has left the factory and needs to be changed or corrected due to a calibration modification. Still need to know the exact year but this should cover 99-01


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## BlueSea (Aug 7, 2013)

mas360 said:


> Was it fuse #30 blown in your case?
> 
> I'll have to look for that thing and unplug it. How did yours do when temperature was into the 40's? I noticed this problem took place after I had a heck of hard time starting the truck and had to recharge batteries several times despite of the batteries were barely four months old. Perhaps the cold temperature caused it to overdraw and thus melted the fuse?


I believe it was #30 little mini green fuse but also I pulled the plug on the back of the fuel heater and its fine to what ever temps we have had around here


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## mas360 (Nov 21, 2006)

EN1 said:


> 1999 F-250 Super Duty 7.3 1999 F-550 Super Duty 7.3
> 1999 F-350 Super Duty 7.3
> Customer Concern:
> Fuse 30 in the underdash fuse box is blowing immediately. If the PCM diode in the underhood fuse box is removed, the fuse still blows.
> ...


My truck is 2000 model. Does the procedure you listed still apply?

Another addition to my repair tip collection....thanks. ..

For the amateur weekend mechanic wannabe me, this is quite a challenge.

BlueSea unplugged his fuel bowl heater and did not replace it. His truck has been working fine in cold weather and that's what multiple other 7.3 owners on Ford forum reported on theirs as well. None of them replaced it. So, the puzzle to me is why Ford put that problem child in the 7.3 to start with?


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## sweenyite (Feb 22, 2009)

mas360 said:


> My truck is 2000 model. Does the procedure you listed still apply?
> 
> Another addition to my repair tip collection....thanks. ..
> 
> ...



For the Yankees.


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## EN1 (Nov 5, 2013)

Yes it should still apply . ..


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