# Super Tuning



## Bluefleck (Mar 13, 2009)

OK Matt, please tell me more about "super tuning" old curado's! :smile:


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## MattK (Feb 9, 2006)

Here's two really great articles about super tuning. Check these out and let me know if you have any questions.

http://www.ultimatebass.com/content/view/72/42/

http://www.ultimatebass.com/content/view/247/42/


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## Dipsay (Apr 28, 2006)

Hence my signature..lol


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## MattK (Feb 9, 2006)

Dipsay said:


> Hence my signature..lol


Huh?


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## Dipsay (Apr 28, 2006)

IOW, I agree with the links you provided. Good read. That's what I do.. Read my signature.. Thanks again Matt..


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## MattK (Feb 9, 2006)

Oh, gotcha. Yea, those are the best articles I've found on the subject to date. They give enough information and details for someone wanting to give it a shot. It's not hard it just takes some time. I super tune reels fairly regularly but try not to advertise it because of the time consumption issue. My name got passed around this bass club and one guy found out about the tuning, been busy with super tuning ever since.


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## Dipsay (Apr 28, 2006)

I agree..lol It does take some time. not just your average clean and go..


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## Bluefleck (Mar 13, 2009)

Thanks! OK, a bunch of questions come to mind. Forgive me if I just missed something in these excellent articles&#8230;

He created a tool to polish the "friction ring", is there an easer way or should I start re-creating this tool?

After you wrap the sandpaper around the toothpick, I assume it sort of flops and slaps at it spins, is that ok?

When he talks about wiping things down with alcohol, is it just rubbing alcohol? Could I use lighter fluid?

He uses 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper for everything, but then also uses 2000 grit for the drag components. What do you guys use? Do you wet sand everything?

For a Curado SF, and a Chronarch SF, do I assume I don't need to polish the pinion gear and the spool shaft? I recognize I would still polish the concave (doesn't he mean convex?) spool shaft ends.

Can't wait to try this all out, thanks!


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## MattK (Feb 9, 2006)

Bluefleck said:


> Thanks! OK, a bunch of questions come to mind. Forgive me if I just missed something in these excellent articles&#8230;
> 
> He created a tool to polish the "friction ring", is there an easer way or should I start re-creating this tool?


Create the tool. It's simple and will save you a bunch of time.



Bluefleck said:


> After you wrap the sandpaper around the toothpick, I assume it sort of flops and slaps at it spins, is that ok?



It's fine as long as you wrap it in the right direction because it will tighten when it spins.
 


Bluefleck said:


> When he talks about wiping things down with alcohol, is it just rubbing alcohol? Could I use lighter fluid?


Rubbing alcohol or denatured alcohol will work. It evaporates quickly and leaves no residue. Some people use lighter fluid. I use neither. Be careful when using these, I don't want to hear about a flaming fisherman.



Bluefleck said:


> He uses 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper for everything, but then also uses 2000 grit for the drag components. What do you guys use? Do you wet sand everything?


Maybe Dipsay can chime in, I got to keep some things secret.



Bluefleck said:


> For a Curado SF, and a Chronarch SF, do I assume I don't need to polish the pinion gear and the spool shaft? I recognize I would still polish the concave (doesn't he mean convex?) spool shaft ends.


You need to polish both the spool shaft and the ID of the pinion gear. Super free reels just have a pinion support bearing instead of a spool bearing. It's purpose is to center the pinion gear on the spool shaft but they do make contact from time to time.

Yes, he should have used convex instead on concave. I noticed that when I read it years ago. Good eye.



Bluefleck said:


> Can't wait to try this all out, thanks!


Let us know how it turns out.


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## robul (Apr 26, 2007)

MattK said:


> Oh, gotcha. Yea, those are the best articles I've found on the subject to date. They give enough information and details for someone wanting to give it a shot. It's not hard it just takes some time. I super tune reels fairly regularly but try not to advertise it because of the time consumption issue. My name got passed around this bass club and one guy found out about the tuning, been busy with super tuning ever since.


now you tell me!! lol. Time to send you some more reels!!


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## Mojo281 (Sep 7, 2006)

Pretty cool reading... Thanks for sharing MattK!!! 

Still, I think I would just pay a pro to do it for me...


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## Dipsay (Apr 28, 2006)

I tend to use CLR for the brass parts and a wire brush..polish everything. That CLR works pretty well. Just be careful of any "thin' brass washers..they tend to *curl* . just like in that link. It's important to get rid of anything that can cause friction..pinion gear, shaft, ect..the smoother the parts the better the reel will perform..Just remember once you get er dun..crank it down a bit on the cast control knob. it will perform differently and you can easily blow it up..lol good luck.


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## trout250 (Aug 24, 2005)

I use skewer sticks for skiskabobs instead of toothpicks because they are just right to chuck up in my cordless dremel tool,they are also easier to split in half with a single edged razor blade. i don't use sandpaper because if you have a flapper wheel going around, you can aggrevate/ create some problems, I use products that are not readily available to everybody , because I have them on hand to clean the gold, brass and silver mounts on antique furniture. Always keep keep the piece lubed while polishing makes it go faster.


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## Bluefleck (Mar 13, 2009)

Thanks for all the advice guys. I'll let you know how it goes. I love working on my reels, now I just need to find the time.


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## Jeepmanmike (Aug 17, 2005)

This is one of the coolest things, had not even thought of it, bought the stuff today working on mine now, cant wait to cast the old 201b.


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## MattK (Feb 9, 2006)

Let us know how it turns out.


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## Jeepmanmike (Aug 17, 2005)

Drag smooth as silk, better than out of the box. Will be playing with a few more reels this week, awesome thread.


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## reelthreat (Jul 11, 2006)

I am headed to the store to get everything to "super tune" my reels after work. I can't wait to see the difference!!


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## trout250 (Aug 24, 2005)

If you use wet or dry sandpaper and naptha to sand the back of the main gear and the metal drag washers you use a piece of marble, thick glass or something of that sort that is super flat and keep the paper wet while flatting out the pieces you will be suprised how much you have to sand to get them flat.
I use 4/0 steel wool instead of ssand paper to polish the brake ring anf pinion gear, then cape cod polishing cloths wrapped on the skewer stick to buff out for finial polish. This works better than trying to to do the brake ring with sandpaper, but the cape cod cloths are a little pricey. the kicker to them is to take them out of the foil packet and place in a small plastic or glass container than can be sealed. The cloth is a flannel type and does not take a very large piece to do a reel. like i said before the skewer sticks work better thn a toothpick for me because theyare easier to split and make a arbor out of


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## reelthreat (Jul 11, 2006)

I finished super tuning one of my old green curados... MAN WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!!

I replaced the spool berings, sanded the spool shaft where needed, sanded the pinion gear and sanded the drag parts and now it performs better than new. And this reel is over 10 years old!!

The only problem is since I got used to the "low profile" reels, thumb release feels a little akward. I am going to field test it tomorrow morning.


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## MattK (Feb 9, 2006)

Way to go, let us know how it performs.


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## reelthreat (Jul 11, 2006)

MattK said:


> Way to go, let us know how it performs.


I field tested the curado and it casts outstanding. I was able to cast super light stuff further than I ever have before and with a top water I could almost cast the whole spool off. It even out casted a new curado E7.

Unfortunatly, I was not able to test the drag smoothness... we ran all over West Matty and could not find a trout or baitfish for that matter. We fished with tops, corkys, gulps and tails. All four of us did not get a single tap. Guess I have the test the drag another time .


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## TR (Feb 25, 2005)

Would Nevr-Dull work for the polishing phase or do you think that Simichrome is the way to go?


thanks
TR


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## MattK (Feb 9, 2006)

reelthreat said:


> I field tested the curado and it casts outstanding. I was able to cast super light stuff further than I ever have before and with a top water I could almost cast the whole spool off. It even out casted a new curado E7.
> 
> Unfortunatly, I was not able to test the drag smoothness... we ran all over West Matty and could not find a trout or baitfish for that matter. We fished with tops, corkys, gulps and tails. All four of us did not get a single tap. Guess I have the test the drag another time .


It's amazing how big of a difference it make. I'm sure you will have plenty of opportunities to try that drag out.



TR said:


> Would Nevr-Dull work for the polishing phase or do you think that Simichrome is the way to go?


I've never used it because I've been happy with the Semichrome.


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## trout250 (Aug 24, 2005)

never dull will work it just does not cut as fast, I use cape cod polishing cloths instead of never dull because the smell from never dull bothers my sinuses


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## edbuck51 (Aug 7, 2008)

reelthreat said:


> I . . .I was not able to test the drag smoothness.... Guess I have the test the drag another time .


You sure you didn't just cast past all of the fish?


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## Jeepmanmike (Aug 17, 2005)

I am very happy with mine after I supertuned it, here is a little video of it in action, please do not listen to the crappy singing, I was having a good day.


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