# Shimano Stradic 1000 FH



## DMC

Hello,

I have 4 Shimano Stradic reels; 1 4000, 2 2000 and 1 1000. Every one of these reels intermittently experiences premature bail closing upon casting. The 1000 did it today and also began to be difficult to reel shortly afterward. I disassembled the bail mechanism and cleaned hardened grease from the bail spring. 

During this process the clicker spring fell out. I retrieved it but cannot figure out where it goes in that assembly. Even with the schematics, I get the orientation and which piece it goes into, however the schematic just shows that the spring goes up into the body of it's mating piece, it does not show the bottom of the piece and where the spring fits, and I don't see anywhere that it obviously goes except the oversized hole on the connecting part of the body. 

That aside, I've read numerous posts here and on other forums regarding this premature closing of the bail, and I have to ask if this is known issue at the factory and has it been rectified. These reels are not Van Staals but they aren't cheap either. The fact that my reels began doing this just a few months after purchase, and that they all do it, leads me to believe there is a manufacturing or design flaw. 

Granted I've had the 1000 FH for about 8 years but I take good care of my equipment (I realize everyone says that but I actually do). I love the Stradic reels, and I've recommended them to friends, but this issue has me wondering if I should look for another model or if Shimano has addressed the issue. As for the 1000 FH that I disassembled, I might send it to the factory to have it fixed since I obviously cannot figure out where the spring clicker goes.


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## george.maness86

Here is a blown up schematic that shows you. Hope this helps!!! If you have a bunch on thick grease on the spring is it possible that it is getting stuck and not getting the right tension to hold it open. Or someone assembled it wrong, not allowing it to open fully, causing premature closure.


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## george.maness86

Also check that there is no lube on the RD7868 bail arm where your click pin makes contact. If that is "slick" it might cause this as well. Even Bantam can confirm, the people at the factory get crazy with the grease and add plenty. I don't believe Shimano would design this kind of quality, it has to be something small that is easily over looked.


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## DMC

Thanks for the response,

I had the schematic for a different Stradic model. After I found the right one (the one you have) it became apparent even though that hole is almost 2x the size of that spring clicker, but then my issue was the bail spring (7833). I had to disassemble 2 other reels to have the epiphany of how it went because it connects to the bail, but when I took the 1st one apart the spring somehow latched itself to that push rod (7838) next to it and I couldn't figure out how that could ever be a working mechanism. All is well now.

Thanks again for your help. 

What grease do you use/recommend for the drive gears inside the body? I've been using X-1R Multi-use Grease.


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## george.maness86

DMC said:


> Thanks for the response,
> 
> I had the schematic for a different Stradic model. After I found the right one (the one you have) it became apparent even though that hole is almost 2x the size of that spring clicker, but then my issue was the bail spring (7833). I had to disassemble 2 other reels to have the epiphany of how it went because it connects to the bail, but when I took the 1st one apart the spring somehow latched itself to that push rod (7838) next to it and I couldn't figure out how that could ever be a working mechanism. All is well now.
> 
> Thanks again for your help.
> 
> What grease do you use/recommend for the drive gears inside the body? I've been using X-1R Multi-use Grease.


No problem! I like using Super Lube Synthetic grease with PTFE (Teflon) PN/21006 for gears and cals on the drag washers. Good luck fishing!:tongue:


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## bragwell

DMC said:


> Hello,
> 
> I have 4 Shimano Stradic reels; 1 4000, 2 2000 and 1 1000. Every one of these reels intermittently experiences premature bail closing upon casting. The 1000 did it today and also began to be difficult to reel shortly afterward. I disassembled the bail mechanism and cleaned hardened grease from the bail spring.
> 
> During this process the clicker spring fell out. I retrieved it but cannot figure out where it goes in that assembly. Even with the schematics, I get the orientation and which piece it goes into, however the schematic just shows that the spring goes up into the body of it's mating piece, it does not show the bottom of the piece and where the spring fits, and I don't see anywhere that it obviously goes except the oversized hole on the connecting part of the body.
> 
> That aside, I've read numerous posts here and on other forums regarding this premature closing of the bail, and I have to ask if this is known issue at the factory and has it been rectified. These reels are not Van Staals but they aren't cheap either. The fact that my reels began doing this just a few months after purchase, and that they all do it, leads me to believe there is a manufacturing or design flaw.
> 
> Granted I've had the 1000 FH for about 8 years but I take good care of my equipment (I realize everyone says that but I actually do). I love the Stradic reels, and I've recommended them to friends, but this issue has me wondering if I should look for another model or if Shimano has addressed the issue. As for the 1000 FH that I disassembled, I might send it to the factory to have it fixed since I obviously cannot figure out where the spring clicker goes.


 I sold all of my Stradics bc of this very same issue. I no longer use spinning reels.
I recently switched back from chronarchs, curados, cores, and quantums to my most durable and easy to use calcutta 100b and abu garcia ambassadeur 4600 c3 for my all around reels, I use an H20 mettle for wading the surf. No problems at all with these solid reels after years of wading in saltwater. Great reels.


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## Bantam1

We use a friction rong to apply tension to the bail to prevent closure on a hard cast. Check to make sure this ring has not come apart or swollen from excess oil.


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## george.maness86

Thanks Bantam, you cant go wrong when you get the info from the manufacturer!!


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## Bantam1

Sorry my fat fingers meant to type Friction Ring. This is the most common component that will cause the issue that was described. The bail wire tension may be wrong due to the wire being out of shape.


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## Fishin Tails

Bantam1 said:


> Sorry my fat fingers meant to type Friction Ring. This is the most common component that will cause the issue that was described. The bail wire tension may be wrong due to the wire being out of shape.


That was my thought as soon as I read the symptoms. I just worked on a 2500 FH where the original black friction ring desinigrated. I ordered a new blue one that is working just fine.


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## Jean Scurtu

STRIKEHOOK said:


> I sold all of my Stradics bc of this very same issue. I no longer use spinning reels.
> I recently switched back from chronarchs, curados, cores, and quantums to my most durable and easy to use calcutta 100b and abu garcia ambassadeur 4600 c3 for my all around reels, I use an H20 mettle for wading the surf. No problems at all with these solid reels after years of wading in saltwater. Great reels.


I already sold 10 years ago my SHIMANO STRADIC 4000(made in Japan) because after one season in salt water start to don't work right.
Now i am fishing in salt water just with *DAIWA SS TOURNAMENT(700,1300,1600,2600)* spinning reel and never have problem with minimum maintainance. SS TOURNAMENT 700 is not for salt water,but i never have problems fishing on the bank at ROLLOVER PASS.

I own over 10 SS TOURNAMENT reels.

ALL THE TIMES AFTER FISHING IN SALT WATER I WASH THE REEL AND THE ROD WITH FRESH WATER.

You can see some fish catch be me on jigs at ROLLOVER PASS(9 August 2012) with SS TOURNAMENT 700,but most of the time i am fishing with SS TOURNAMENT 1300 and FIRELINE ORIGINAL SMOKE 4lb.+14lb. fluorocarbon leader.


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## Bantam1

Graphite frame and less bearings = less maintenance.


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## DMC

Thanks for the responses.

I've done some more digging and it seems Bantam is correct. I wasn't aware that there was a friction ring and now that I know, I recall seeing black residue that looked like a solidified grease around the edge of the spool/rotor area. I wiped it clean but in retrospect that was what was left of the friction ring. At one point, on one reel, that ring caused the reel to seize and it would not turn. Makes sense now, no friction ring, over-rotation during cast, bail pops closed like it's supposed to during rotation. 

I'll order new rings. 

Thanks again.


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## DMC

Jean Scurtu said:


> I already sold 10 years ago my SHIMANO STRADIC 4000(made in Japan) because after one season in salt water start to don't work right.
> Now i am fishing in salt water just with *DAIWA SS TOURNAMENT(700,1300,1600,2600)* spinning reel and never have problem with minimum maintainance. SS TOURNAMENT 700 is not for salt water,but i never have problems fishing on the bank at ROLLOVER PASS.
> 
> I own over 10 SS TOURNAMENT reels.
> 
> ALL THE TIMES AFTER FISHING IN SALT WATER I WASH THE REEL AND THE ROD WITH FRESH WATER.
> 
> You can see some fish catch be me on jigs at ROLLOVER PASS(9 August 2012) with SS TOURNAMENT 700,but most of the time i am fishing with SS TOURNAMENT 1300 and FIRELINE ORIGINAL SMOKE 4lb.+14lb. fluorocarbon leader.


Thanks for the suggestion. I have owned many different brands and have gone through graphite frames as well. I prefer the Stradic for smoothness of action and drag. Most of my reels (35+) are Shimano reels, but I do have a few Penns, some Abu reels and Fin Nor.


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## OhRichie

Recently corrected the opposite problem. Bail not closing. 
Opening the bail when the rotor is over the bail trip actually bent the rod
(#7838 above). Caused the bail not to trip completely. Bent the rod slightly and bingo, fixed.


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