# Band Saw Upgrade ?



## EndTuition (May 24, 2004)

My poor old bandsaw is about to give up the gost. I think the mesquite I have been running throught it has about burned it up. I really like resawing logs, but I don't want to buy a big ol saw if I don't need to. I think my saw has a 1/2 HP motor on it. It just bogs down and binds up too easy now. New blade, just has no power left. Would it be feasible to just put a 1HP on it and keep it ? Everything else about the saw if fine. I have a mess of Home Depot cards and they sell a Delta. Anyone know if the Delta (10 inch?) is a capable saw for resawing?


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## biggreen (Feb 23, 2005)

How thick of wood are you planning on resawing? Anything with the 1/2 hp motor is going to do the same as the one you have. I have the Rikon 14" deluxe and it'll cut anything I can lift up to the table. It's more expensive but I don't think I'll ever need another one. 

later, biggreen


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## Tortuga (May 21, 2004)

While we're on the subject of band saws...I got Trod's Jet and I think it's a 1 1/4 HP 14" set-up..The blade on there now looks like 1/4 inch. My blade is about shot and I need some input on what is the BEST blade for replacement..and also could use advice on size of blade...i.e. 1/4 in or 1/2 in.. I'm just using it for smaller chunks of wood and prolly 90 percent of the time just for cutting blanks for pens.Trod gave me a spare, but I gave it away and can't remember what brand or size it was...

thanks for any help....jim


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## Slip (Jul 25, 2006)

Jim, it depends on what kind of cutting you intend to do. If you are cutting curves mostly, the 1/4" or less is ideal. If you are resawing, the larger sized is best and 1/2" or larger. Many may not agree with me, but I prefer the blade with link and is a 1/2" sized and I resaw some very large wood (12" diameter)with it http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1293 and it also works great for cutting the blanks and cuts straight and cross cuts great on the blanks also. This is the only place that has this blade I believe. Most swear by the Timber Wolf blades which are sold in several places or direct from Timber Wolf. I have both and I use the Wood Slicer with link as my primary blade. I have Timber Wolf 3/4", 1" and even a 1.25" blade and I still prefer the cut and resaw with the Wood Slicer. Most that like the Timber Wolf and swear by them, admit that they never tried the Wood Slicer and I have used both. I cannot say Timber Wolf blades do not perform very well, I just like the Wood Slicer the best and is only 1/2" wide so it gives a little more versatility than a larger blade of other brands. I have a JET 18" saw so it handles very large blades. Like I said, most will advise the Timber Wolf and they are very good.


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## lchien (Nov 22, 2006)

highland woodworking Woodslicer in 1/2" would be the best bet. Super blade.
If you can get a hold of Lou Iturra the band saw master he will also sell you a woodslicer, maybe cheaper I think, Lou's hard to get a hold of no website, call his phone number and talk to him personally.


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## Tortuga (May 21, 2004)

Thanks Slip and Ich...I'm going with you guys recs.. Found Lou's phone number and will be giving him a call and buying from him (also hoping for some free advice..lol). Not quite sure yet what the 'link' you're referring to is , Slip, but search leads me to believe it's installed on the blade to facilitate tensioning and alignment ???? Probably I can get an explanation from Lou...

thanks again...jim


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## Slip (Jul 25, 2006)

Tort, the link I ws referring to is for the blade from Highlands. Here it is again. http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1293 You can read abou the blade here and buy from Lou.


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## EndTuition (May 24, 2004)

I use the Timber Wolf Slip is refering to. The Wood slicer is about the same price and my be a much better blade. I think I'll order one up as soon as I'm sure what I'm going to do with my current saw. Thanks Slip.


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## Viking48 (Jan 24, 2006)

Can't argue with biggreen. I bought his "old" one after reading a bunch of reviews. Almost all reviews were very positive and he ran some pretty good chunks of Mesquite through it as a demo and it was like the old hot knife through butter.


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## EndTuition (May 24, 2004)

I never argue with BG ! His tools are bigger than mine!

I gave that BS some thought, but at the time my drill press was a bigger issue. I have a new DP now , and I'm ready to address my BS.


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## EndTuition (May 24, 2004)

There is a 3 year old Rikon 18' band saw for sale on Craigs list. The owner lives about 3 blocks from me. He's asking $500 for it. I may not have much time to research this, but I'm thinking it's a no-brainer. Hobby use only, not a shop saw. What does the 2cool brain trust say ???


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## Slip (Jul 25, 2006)

Buy it and it will come. Buy it and it will come.


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## Hooked (Oct 15, 2004)

I hope you have home by now ET......lol It'll make short work of that hackberry.

Slip, thanks for the info on the Wood Slicer. I'm in the market for a new blade and just hadn't pulled the trigger but was gonna get the Timber Wolf since that's about all you hear about.


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## EndTuition (May 24, 2004)

The saw is in the back of my truck. Waiting on my young strong son to help his dad unload it. Looks like a dusty new saw. Got 5 new blades with it also. Not a scratch or mark anywhere. I beleive I have the upper hand on that mesquite now! Going to need a owners manual, hope I can just download one.

Weird how things happen some times ?


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## Bobby (May 21, 2004)

EndTuition said:


> There is a 3 year old Rikon *18' band saw* for sale on Craigs list. The owner lives about 3 blocks from me. He's asking $500 for it. I may not have much time to research this, but I'm thinking it's a no-brainer. Hobby use only, not a shop saw. What does the 2cool brain trust say ???


That is one big saw. How did you get it in the back of your truck? 18 ft what kind of trees will you be cutting?:rotfl:


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## Slip (Jul 25, 2006)

I think you will really like the extra power and cutting of the 18". I have the 18" JET and can cut almost anything with it and have never bogged it down.


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## Viking48 (Jan 24, 2006)

Just put that ad into Favorites to send to you. Glad you spotted it. I'm sure you'll love it.


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## biggreen (Feb 23, 2005)

That thing is 220 only isn't it? If you need any help setting up or adjusting let me know. I've dont two of them now. Not the most obvious stuff until you do it once. One of the only things that wasn't good on the reviews was the owners manual sucks and there's extra parts in every box. I'm jealous.

later, biggreen


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## EndTuition (May 24, 2004)

biggreen said:


> That thing is 220 only isn't it? If you need any help setting up or adjusting let me know. I've dont two of them now. Not the most obvious stuff until you do it once. One of the only things that wasn't good on the reviews was the owners manual sucks and there's extra parts in every box. I'm jealous.
> 
> later, biggreen


I have 220 where I need it. Got it set up, pluged in and it wanders off pretty bad. I can see it's not set up for the blade that's on it. I'm printing the manual now. I'm going print,read, and follow the user manual and see if I can get it right. If not, I'll be taking you up on the offer to help get it tuned. I spent an entire Saturday tunning a jointer once, and it only had two adjustments! Not too sure about the fence either, it seems to vary based on where you lock it down and is over a 1/4" off of zero. Wish me luck !


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## biggreen (Feb 23, 2005)

Put the blade you plan on using most on it before you start tuning it. Otherwise your wasting time. There's an adjustment behind the top wheel to center the blade. The guide bearings adjust in every way. The bar the fence sits on adjust to make the fence parralel to the blade. There's a bolt under the table to make sure it's at 90 degrees to the blade. Tensioner for the motor belts. Tensioner for the width of the blade (might be why your "wondering" now, tension may be too loose). It's a great tool once it's adjusted. Be patient.

later, biggreen


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## Tortuga (May 21, 2004)

Lawdy !!! That sounds like it's about two levels above my 'pay grade'.. When/if I get my new blade in I might like to be added to the folks you do bidness with, Steve.. We can work out a suitable 'house call' fee.....say.an icy cold 'six pack' ???:spineyes:


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## EndTuition (May 24, 2004)

Made some good progress last night once I had the book.
So far, everything that can be adjusted, has been found to be way off, at least for the blade on it now. Pretty sure the previous owner never had it right. Found the adjustment for the fence scale also, it could not have ever been right. Slip, what size blade do you recommend for mostly resawing? It's got a 1/2" 5/TPI(?) on on it now, and thats what I'm adjusting for, but maybe I should wait till I get a wood slicer if it's going to be wider ?


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## biggreen (Feb 23, 2005)

Will work for BEER.

I resaw w/a 5/8 3TPI blade. I don't buy the Timberwolf blades any more after I got three bad ones in a row. They weren't welded right and kicked the rear guide bearing ever time the weld came around. As long as you set the saw up for a 1/2 or 5/8" whatever, the adjustment should be fine. You don't have to really move stuff around unless your switching from a 1/4" to a 1" or something like that.

later, biggreen


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## EndTuition (May 24, 2004)

Found some major adjustment issues in the bottom end last night. Had to take the table off to get to one of the parts not assembeled correctly. Put it all back together and was able to get the blade to track correctly on the wheels, and then all the other adjustments were able to reach. Previously the bottom rear guide was so far forward the blade would not center on the wheel, and the guide would not back up. Got it all set according to the manual, and now the fence is correct. It still wanders a good bit







so I may have to mess with some of the factory settings, but I think I will put a new blade on it first just to be sure, before I go any further.

I'm not dissapointed and can tell this is going to be a kick arse saw, but I'm sure ready to do some sawing and less fussing.


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## EndTuition (May 24, 2004)

Saw is running right! New blade made no difference. Had to adjust the entire upper arm where it's mounted to the frame. Supposedly this is a factory adjusted setting and I suspect the wizard I got the saw from messed with it. It was way off and the blade was canted in quite a bit. I don't think this saw was assembeld correctly, or ever adjusted/tunned right. That may explain the fact it wasn't used much. Any way, running strong and I resawed a 12 Mesquite log with it in short order and with very little effort. I'm sure it not 100% correct, and I'm going to keep a 12 pack cold just in case I need a professional house call in the future.


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## biggreen (Feb 23, 2005)

I knew my first one wasn't perfect but worked fine. I found out on the second one how nice it could be. it runs almost silent, no bearing noise or anything but the motor. Still not sure why I sold the first one. I guess because I could replace it for no cost? I did the same with my table saw and now I'm stuck with two of them. New one is still in the box in the corner of the garage. Oh well, I guess I'll put it together someday. The old one is fine. Still looking to get rid of the "old" one if anyone's looking. Keep that 12 pack around. Something will come up.

later, biggreen


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## Slip (Jul 25, 2006)

EndTuition said:


> Slip, what size blade do you recommend for mostly resawing? It's got a 1/2" 5/TPI(?) on on it now, and thats what I'm adjusting for, but maybe I should wait till I get a wood slicer if it's going to be wider ?


With the Wood Slicer, it comes as a 1/2" only and works perfect for resawing. If using another blade, the wider the better. I have a 1-1/4" TimberWolf blade and is special for resawing, but my 1/2" Wood Slicer works just as good and I have resawed some 12" stock like butter. With most blades, the wider is better for resawing and at least 3/4" to 1" is mostly recommended. This is why I prefer the Wood Slicer and is super quite compared to many other blades. Like I said everlier, I have some Timberwolf blades of 1/2", 3/4", 1" and 1-1/4" blades. Have a few smaller for some fine curves, but changing blades on the 18" Jet is not the easiest to change and adjust to make work. I basically leave the Wood Slicer on it all the time. Again, it is only my opinion and others don't always agree, but the ones that don't agree, haven't necesarily tried the Wood Slicer. Kinda like other saw blades, I have tried many and I will not use anything other than a Forrest blade any longer. They are expensive but the Wood Slicer blades are no more expensive than others.


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## Viking48 (Jan 24, 2006)

biggreen said:


> Still not sure why I sold the first one.
> later, biggreen


Glad you did.


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