# F-250 6.0 EGR /cooler delete kit



## fin&feather (Jun 24, 2008)

EGR cooler went out last week and after being stranded on the side of the road a few times because of this system failing one way or another I decided to get a delete kit. Curious to know how many 2coolers have tried this as a fix and what's your take on it now. 

Overall plan is to just use cooler bypass and leave the EGR in place to prevent codes (that reminds me that I have an extra EGR with lifetime replacement that is a week old if anyone is interested in it). I found an illustrated write-up to follow on how to do this replacement without pulling the intake and feel that is likely going to be the plan. 

So it's on the table I understand this emission part might have to be put back to factory when they start sniff testing so that plan is to just cross that road if and when it arrives.


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## sam7 (May 25, 2010)

i've personally not installed a delete kit,but i have worked on vehicles that have them. As long as the egr valve is left in place, the check engine light should not come on. One issue i have noticed with repeat egr cooler failures is improper reair. the egr cooler is not the cause, only the effect. the oil cooler is restricted and the cooling system is not being flushed properly.

There are several deleted kits on the market. some w/ just the deleted kit, and some with oil coolers,etc. most seem to work pretty good. just remember the oil cooler is most likley the issue.


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## fin&feather (Jun 24, 2008)

I pulled the egr last month for the first time and removed a coffee can full of suit from the intake, I could only speculate the cooler was in the same condition and expect the veins to be fouled causing excess heat buildup and metal fatigue. Regardless of what caused it, it's now shooting water into my exhaust and will be removed soon as time allows. Interesting that you say that and as of now I'm not sure how to check the oil cooler but will keep looking into it. just not sure how the 2 are connected though?


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## sam7 (May 25, 2010)

the carbon biuld up is pretty much a normal occurance in this engine. i've been told the egr cooler can be replaced w/o removing the intake. if the intake has carbon biuld up in it, clean it or have it cleaned when replaceing the cooler. the oil cooler causes the egr cooler to pop because the coolant side of the cooler gets restricted. when this happens, the coolant flow through the oil cooler is restricted and causes excessive heat in the coolant passage in the egr cooler. if coolant or water has been leaking for a while, our going to want to inspect the turbo charger for rusting and pitting. if not addressed, the turbo could stick and cause an under boost or over boost situation


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## fin&feather (Jun 24, 2008)

Ok I'm with ya now, thanks

Can the oil cooler be rebuilt or does it have to be replaced?


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## sam7 (May 25, 2010)

ford offers the oil cooler element kit. it comes with all of the necessary o'rings and the heat exchanger.
i have also seen aftermarket oil coolers for the 6.0l. i've never installed an aftermarket, but the design seems well thought out. the web site is www.bulletproofdiesel.com
i don't know the prices of them. the one they offer uses a radiator style cooler that routes coolant in front of the radiator.
it's just a thought to keep on mind. the ford cooler works pretty good as long as the cooling system is flushed.
when you pull the oil cooler out, another thing to keep in mind is, the oil underneath the cooler is the reservoir for the high pressure oil system. if possible drain the oil. there is a screen under there, and 90% of the time when i've done this repair, the screen is torn. i've seen where this was not done, and when the oil cooler is lifted out of the vehicle, debris falls in this reservoir, goes through the torn screen, and damages the ipr.


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## Bottomsup (Jul 12, 2006)

I would do an EGR delete on any diesel engine equiped with it. Better yet get rid of that turd 6.0 and go back to 02 or 03 with a 7.3 in it. Go back to you exhaust pipe and run your finger in it. That crud can not be run back into your engine without grinding your rings and valves away. Bet you never see an EGR engine with 500k on it.


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## fin&feather (Jun 24, 2008)

Found many threads on replacing the oil cooler, building one from scratch, and adding external filters, but not many explain on how to trouble shoot to tell if it's bad. Hoping that there will be some sign when I have it apart, that would so sux if it is discovered after its up and going.


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## sam7 (May 25, 2010)

when you take the oil cooler off, turno it upside down over a drain pan to get most of the coolan side empty. the oil side is not the issue. turn it back over, and with a flash light, look down inside the coolant ports. you will notice what looks like mud caked up in the bottom. i'm not sure what the material is, but this is what restricts the cooler. hope the info helps.


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## fin&feather (Jun 24, 2008)

Took the jump last week and just did it. Picked up a DCI delete kit on eBay (All nice quality, highly advise referring this part out, also liked the make a offer price) new oil cooler from dealer and found an extra bay at a friend's shop to do all the work. Overall I ended up sticking to the original plan of replacing the EGR cooler with the delete kit, cleaning the ccv, and replacing the oil cooler. I found out that the ccv was putting the oil into my turbo resulting in a sticky carbon build up so day 2 was spent cleaning up all the excess oil, boiling out the intake, and buffing out the turbo. I can't say it was the easiest of jobs that I've ever done but it was manageable. The delete kit was advisable all the parts was billet aluminum, stainless and all included. I still have the up tube and egr cover plate if someone is interested just let me know. I opted to keep the egr in place like I mentioned to keep from getting codes. One end of the egr cooler was cut off and welded up and put back in the exhaust spot so just in case it ever needs to be reinstalled it's an easy fix. I was surprised on how easy of a job this was epically since it's my first diesel job. Those who do this repair just make note its normal for your exhaust to blow white smoke for about 30 -60 min if you had an egr cooler failure. I can't believe how much quieter the truck runs and I'm looking forward to hooking up the boat and taking a little road trip.


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## willbo (May 21, 2004)

*Keep us updated*



fin&feather said:


> Took the jump last week and just did it.... I can't believe how much quieter the truck runs and I'm looking forward to hooking up the boat and taking a little road trip.


Sounds like a manageable fix to a real problem. Keep us informed of how the new and improved version of your 6.0 works. I would like to hear from yourself and anyone else that has this modification as I am seriously considering the delete kit as my 6.0 nears the end of its warranty.

I am really interested in hearing if there is any noticeable gain in power, mpg, or both. Also, do you have any noticeable exhaust after deleting the EGR cooler?


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## Pocketfisherman (May 30, 2005)

Is all this gunk in the turbo a result of the PVC feeding into the intake upstream of the turbo? On my Jeep CRD diesel it was and caused fouling of the turbo and EGR valve. Replacing the PVC into the intake with a catch can and filter fixed that problem permanently. Not sure if Fords are the same, but it might be worth looking at.


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## fin&feather (Jun 24, 2008)

I'm short running the truck back and forth to work so mpg will not be noticed right away, but have noticed added power and a much quieter ride. I actually keep finding myself turning down the air just to hear the engine at times not that I'm listening for a problem but rather just need to hear that turbo whistle to get the blood flowing in the mornings. 

At first I thought the turbo lag was a result of the crankcase vent box, (there is no pcv valve just 4 valve cover vents going into this ccv box, when the screens get saturated with oil it blows into the air intake tubing and gets blown all through the turbo). Now thinking about it I'm incorrect because this goes into the compressor side only not the variable gate side. I now feel that the combination of carbon and steam that was going through the exhaust is what gummed up the gates. I didn't intend to mislead others on this just didn't understand the whole matrix at that time. This was honestly a simple but timely repair, and would advise any with a 6.0 to invest into this repair to prevent a expansive failure in the future. My philosophy on this was I could do the "right" thing and components replace the failed parts risking another failure down the road and road killing another oil cooler and maybe set of perfectly good head gaskets. I feel that this bypass kit was the most logical, feasible, trustworthy way for me to enjoy this truck for many trouble free years to come and hope others who have done this repair will concur. 

Here is a good link for some information and parts reference on these 6.0's. 

http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles/article-06-08.php


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## fin&feather (Jun 24, 2008)

Almost forgot, running duel exhaust and have not noticed any visible emissions since the repair.


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## fin&feather (Jun 24, 2008)

Pocketfisherman said:


> Is all this gunk in the turbo a result of the PVC feeding into the intake upstream of the turbo? On my Jeep CRD diesel it was and caused fouling of the turbo and EGR valve. Replacing the PVC into the intake with a catch can and filter fixed that problem permanently. Not sure if Fords are the same, but it might be worth looking at.


Yes it is and would work great provided you had a way to route it in. did you make your own catch can?


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## Pocketfisherman (May 30, 2005)

fin&feather said:


> Yes it is and would work great provided you had a way to route it in. did you make your own catch can?


No, I bought one from a guy who made them up and was selling them on the Jeep KJ Formums. Nice anodized billet piece, holds about as much as a jelly jar and I empty it once a month. Usually it's only 1/4 full.


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