# 2005 Ford F-250 6.uhoh going to the shop!



## SALTLIFE361 (Sep 26, 2011)

What started out as white smoke coming out of my exhaust turned out to be a bad oil cooler which made my EGR cooler fail had the diagnostic done Ford quoted me over 3k to fix it with OEM parts. Luckily I'm in the boat business and meet all kinds of people sold a boat to a guy out of San Antonio who owns a Diesel mechanic shop real good guy who said he would do it for almost half the price using after market parts which are a whole lot stronger then that factory **** they put in. Hopefully it will be smooth sailing from here I'm just real skeptical after reading all the problems with this year model. Looking for any feedback good or bad I'm all ears.


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## devil1824 (Sep 4, 2010)

The problem is all the EGR ****. Once it's gone you should be good to go.


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## SALTLIFE361 (Sep 26, 2011)

See that's what I was thinking I brought that to his attention Im no fan of it either he advised not to do it because you start throwing all these codes but if I buy the tuner and over ride all that **** I should be good to go?


devil1824 said:


> The problem is all the EGR ****. Once it's gone you should be good to go.


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## Major29 (Jun 19, 2011)

SALTLIFE361 said:


> See that's what I was thinking I brought that to his attention Im no fan of it either he advised not to do it because you start throwing all these codes but if I buy the tuner and over ride all that **** I should be good to go?


Do it! I have an '07 dodge with the 6.7 Cummins and I love my truck so much more after deleting all that EPA BS. I deleted the egr valve, egr cooler, the catylitic converter, the DPF(diesel particulate filter), and hollowed out the crankcase vent filter. I did a 4" exhaust, but left the stock muffler. I put a smarty jr. tuner in it to override all the codes. My truck runs cleaner than ever with very little smoke, and I get 22 MPG highway and 19 city. You will not be sorry. Plus I did all the work myself in about 8-10 hours total and it cost me about $1,200 +/-

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2


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## SALTLIFE361 (Sep 26, 2011)

Thanks I needed to hear that once I get it fixed and can save up some more money more then likely ill go that route I already have a superchip programmer ready to put in it. I dont have to worry about doing the DPF delete I think that was put into place after my year model my cousin just got a 2012 F-250 6.3 did everything you did and he couldn't be happier and all the same results you did and the truck definitely has a TON more power I punched it doing about 45 and I could've sworn it spun the tires. I think doing the EGR delete is def. the way to go ill also go with a straight back exhaust it has a Banks exhaust but still has the Cat converter I think once I do all that I'll love it.


Major29 said:


> Do it! I have an '07 dodge with the 6.7 Cummins and I love my truck so much more after deleting all that EPA BS. I deleted the egr valve, egr cooler, the catylitic converter, the DPF(diesel particulate filter), and hollowed out the crankcase vent filter. I did a 4" exhaust, but left the stock muffler. I put a smarty jr. tuner in it to override all the codes. My truck runs cleaner than ever with very little smoke, and I get 22 MPG highway and 19 city. You will not be sorry. Plus I did all the work myself in about 8-10 hours total and it cost me about $1,200 +/-
> 
> Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2


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## sboudreaux (May 22, 2008)

SALTLIFE361 said:


> Thanks I needed to hear that once I get it fixed and can save up some more money more then likely ill go that route I already have a superchip programmer ready to put in it. I dont have to worry about doing the DPF delete I think that was put into place after my year model my cousin just got a 2012 F-250 6.3 did everything you did and he couldn't be happier and all the same results you did and the truck definitely has a TON more power I punched it doing about 45 and I could've sworn it spun the tires. I think doing the EGR delete is def. the way to go ill also go with a straight back exhaust it has a Banks exhaust but still has the Cat converter I think once I do all that I'll love it.


Saltlife - I just had the egr blocked and the oil cooler upgrade done a few weeks ago on an '04. Mine did not have issues but I have had a 6.0 in the past and experienced a few egr problems. Since it was in the shop I wanted all of the emissions **** off so I had a 4 inch turbo back system put on. It runs like a scalded ape but it is LOUD. When I crank it up in the garage it sound like a jet is getting ready for take off! It is really only turbo whistle not too much rumble but be ready for some noise when you take the cat off. Wait a minute, your in your early 20's, you'll be fine:cheers:


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## SALTLIFE361 (Sep 26, 2011)

Thanks for the input and you're absolutely right that's music to my ears I love that sound my cousin and my buddy both have it from the turbo back straight pipe and you described the noise to a T it sounds like a jet getting ready for take off! Once I get my truck running right that's my next move.


sboudreaux said:


> Saltlife - I just had the egr blocked and the oil cooler upgrade done a few weeks ago on an '04. Mine did not have issues but I have had a 6.0 in the past and experienced a few egr problems. Since it was in the shop I wanted all of the emissions **** off so I had a 4 inch turbo back system put on. It runs like a scalded ape but it is LOUD. When I crank it up in the garage it sound like a jet is getting ready for take off! It is really only turbo whistle not too much rumble but be ready for some noise when you take the cat off. Wait a minute, your in your early 20's, you'll be fine:cheers:


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## SALTLIFE361 (Sep 26, 2011)

*Here's a pic of old yeller*

Hopefully its back up and running soon! It runs fine now I just keep having to dump a gallon of coolant in it every other day I'd just rather park it before I mess it up even more.


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## Jolly Roger (May 21, 2004)

SALTLIFE361 said:


> See that's what I was thinking I brought that to his attention Im no fan of it either he advised not to do it because you start throwing all these codes but if I buy the tuner and over ride all that **** I should be good to go?


Up grade your head studs while they have it apart. If you have a choice go with an external oil cooler. Delete the EGR and get a Programmer like SCT and you will not have any codes. I would expect you to have problems with your dummy plugs. The pressure that makes the oil cooler go bad often gets the dummy plugs also. Tell them to put the blue spring in also.

If you have never drove a 6.0 once these upgrades have been done then you are in for a shock. It will be like a new truck. That is a whole lot of YELLOW, nice


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## TheGoose (Jan 22, 2006)

A lot of the Ford 6.0 enthusiasts also encourage to swap from Gold Ford Coolant to a CAT ELC (extended life) coolant. I did that and added a coolant filter ($125 and about a 10 minute job) to keep the new cooler from plugging again.


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## SALTLIFE361 (Sep 26, 2011)

Sounds good ill def. give that a shot. Thanks for the input


TheGoose said:


> A lot of the Ford 6.0 enthusiasts also encourage to swap from Gold Ford Coolant to a CAT ELC (extended life) coolant. I did that and added a coolant filter ($125 and about a 10 minute job) to keep the new cooler from plugging again.


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## cg_wilson2003 (Jun 2, 2011)

Also pick up a Scanguage or something similar to see what is going on with the engine. The bad oil cooler could have been spotted well before it took out the EGR cooler. No ford 6.0 should be without one. Great trucks once you know the quirks.


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## SALTLIFE361 (Sep 26, 2011)

*Truck is actin up again*

Ok so the truck started actin up again. I started to notice when I would pull up to stop signs or stop lights my truck would have a light shake and when I would take off it just didn't feel right like the truck wasn't getting enough diesel. I plugged my Superchip in and read the codes P0272 cylinder #4 Contribution/balance fault, P0300 random/multiple cylinder misfire detected & P0713 Tran fluid temp sens ckt high input. Ok so here's the funny thing I drove my truck to San Marcos over the weekend probably not the smartest idea with it running like that didn't drive it once I got to SM it was parked all weekend. I was driving back Sunday I got about 3/4 of the way home and it quit doing it no shake and I had all my power back I know the problem is intermittent and it just didn't just fix itself I was wondering if any other 6.0 owners has had this problem before or know anything about it. I called my diesel mechanic in SA the injector isn't as bad is I thought it would be, but if it's multiple injectors thats when it starts to add up any input would be helpful thanks fellas


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## Jolly Roger (May 21, 2004)

Poor quality diesel can give you the misfire codes. Change filters and drain water separator. This is the simplest and first thing to check. If that does not solve it, then need to check your FICM. You might be able to do this with the superchip. Should be detailed steps on the interweb of how to test the FICM. If not the FICM, post up and let us know.


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## SALTLIFE361 (Sep 26, 2011)

You know I never thought about getting some poor grade diesel my buddy filled up my truck from his diesel tank right before I started having this problem. That could very much be it I just had my filters changed though I'll drain the water separator should I go ahead and replace the filters again?


Jolly Roger said:


> Poor quality diesel can give you the misfire codes. Change filters and drain water separator. This is the simplest and first thing to check. If that does not solve it, then need to check your FICM. You might be able to do this with the superchip. Should be detailed steps on the interweb of how to test the FICM. If not the FICM, post up and let us know.


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## Jolly Roger (May 21, 2004)

SALTLIFE361 said:


> You know I never thought about getting some poor grade diesel my buddy filled up my truck from his diesel tank right before I started having this problem. That could very much be it I just had my filters changed though I'll drain the water separator should I go ahead and replace the filters again?


Kinda your call, you can pull them and do a visual check. If he had a bunch of Algae in his tank you can see this on your filters. But if he had a lot of water or clear goo then it can be hard to see on filters.


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## wakeupluis (Feb 16, 2006)

First have them do a diagnostic with AE software make sure you dont have any issues besides blown egr. Ofcourse it could just be a bad FICM. Have the coolant system flushed. Then have the heads pulled off checked and install OEM FORD head gaskets with ARP Head STUDS. Like someone else stated have them go back with an extended life coolant not the fold GOLD. I used the Rotella ELC "its RED in color" Have them update the internal problems. If its a 6.0 mechanic he/she should know what to upgrade. Various fittings that are upgrades, stand pipes, dummy plugs, oil screen. Install a brand new FORD oil cooler. Totally Delete or Weld shut the EGR cooler dont just put a puck syle block. Add a coolant filter and a SCT tuner with what ever tunes you like. You are looking to spend between $3000 to $5000 depeding on what all needs to be done.


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## SALTLIFE361 (Sep 26, 2011)

Just had all that stuff done not too long ago I would say in May new Oil cooler & EGR cooler all aftermarket top notch parts. Had the fuel filters changed did the coolant flush they used the Rotella coolant the oil was changed as well Royal Purple. I have a feeling I got some nasty diesel. Thanks for all the input.


wakeupluis said:


> First have them do a diagnostic with AE software make sure you dont have any issues besides blown egr. Ofcourse it could just be a bad FICM. Have the coolant system flushed. Then have the heads pulled off checked and install OEM FORD head gaskets with ARP Head STUDS. Like someone else stated have them go back with an extended life coolant not the fold GOLD. I used the Rotella ELC "its RED in color" Have them update the internal problems. If its a 6.0 mechanic he/she should know what to upgrade. Various fittings that are upgrades, stand pipes, dummy plugs, oil screen. Install a brand new FORD oil cooler. Totally Delete or Weld shut the EGR cooler dont just put a puck syle block. Add a coolant filter and a SCT tuner with what ever tunes you like. You are looking to spend between $3000 to $5000 depeding on what all needs to be done.


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## SALTLIFE361 (Sep 26, 2011)

Thanks buddy I'm gonna try this. Like I said its running like a top now no problems. I filled my truck back up from a Valero about 20 miles out of San Marcos could it be possible I burned up all the bad diesel and once the new diesel got in there it made the truck start running right?


Jolly Roger said:


> Kinda your call, you can pull them and do a visual check. If he had a bunch of Algae in his tank you can see this on your filters. But if he had a lot of water or clear goo then it can be hard to see on filters.


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## Copano/Aransas (Dec 18, 2011)

SALTLIFE361 said:


> Thanks buddy I'm gonna try this. Like I said its running like a top now no problems. I filled my truck back up from a Valero about 20 miles out of San Marcos could it be possible I burned up all the bad diesel and once the new diesel got in there it made the truck start running right?


I don't see why not, makes since to me.


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## Jolly Roger (May 21, 2004)

SALTLIFE361 said:


> Thanks buddy I'm gonna try this. Like I said its running like a top now no problems. I filled my truck back up from a Valero about 20 miles out of San Marcos could it be possible I burned up all the bad diesel and once the new diesel got in there it made the truck start running right?


It is possible, but if it was mine I would change filters. Also would run diesel kleen and something to kill algae for a few tanks.


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## Bigwater (May 21, 2004)

Putting that much coolant in it your gonna have more problems than fuel. Most likely your oil cooler is plugging due to bad coolant. You need head gaskets and arp head studs. A coolant filter and an EGR cooler. Put a new water pump on it while the cab is off and change the coolant filter after two months then three months then once a year after that. That will get the sand out of it. Get an sct programmer with live wire. Watch your coolant and oil temp split. When that split gets to 30 degrees you will need to work on it. Watch your ficm voltage primary and secondary. With a constant 13+ volts on the primary of the ficm if the secondary drops to 45 volts it will need worked on. Get an open 5 inch pipe. If you take the truck into dirt leave the factory air intake on it.
If your 6.0 has around 100000 miles on it most likely you got blown head gaskets.

Biggie


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