# Poured spider weights



## peckerwood

Bought the Do-It mold from Barlowes that was mentioned on a thread a while back and made 16 weights that turned out perfect.With shipping and tax,the mold cost 40 bucks,so It's almost already paid for itself at full retail prices.Soon as I get off here,I'm going to order the small mold.I got the 5 1/2 and 8oz mold.Those 8's are some big mofo's.


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## colbyntx

Cool! I have thought about getting on for my jig heads!


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## fishingtwo

The first ones I made way back when I used a cup of hard packed sand. They were a little ugly but they worked.
They worked really good as I used coathanger wire. They would dig in and almost bust a gut trying to get them reeled back in. 
If something hit, it would hook itself.
Needless to say those were not used unless I cut the wire very very short.


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## jimj100

Plus, melting and pouring lead is fun.


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## fishingcacher

fishingtwo said:


> The first ones I made way back when I used a cup of hard packed sand. They were a little ugly but they worked.
> They worked really good as I used coathanger wire. They would dig in and almost bust a gut trying to get them reeled back in.
> If something hit, it would hook itself.
> Needless to say those were not used unless I cut the wire very very short.


The old sand cast method.


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## sharkchum

The do-it spider weight molds are great, and I highly recommend any one who fishes on a regular bases to pour your own weight. There is a small investment up front, but it will pay for its self in a year, and the molds will last a lifetime.


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## sharkchum

Here's some pointers on the 5 1/2 oz and 8 oz spider weights. For the legs use 1/16", 316 series stainless steel heliarc rod. For each sinker you need 3 legs cut to 5" and 1 cut to 7". Bend about 1" of the 7" rod over to form the eye, and bend a 1/2" hook or loop on the end of the 5" rods. When this is done line up the straight ends and secure all 4 together with a small piece of tape. I always start by preheating my molds with a torch than pour a couple blanks with no wire to get the molds good and hot before I start. Now just insert your legs into the mold, making sure the eye is in position, and pour your lead. When you remove the weight from the mold there will be a small piece of lead sticking out, to remove this simply grasp with pliers and twist and it will break off smooth.. That's all it takes to have a lifetime supply of sinkers.


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## peckerwood

Mr. Shark,I got lucky and made mine almost the same as you,except for the eye,I made one wire 13'' long and made a loop in the middle making 2 legs,then tied 2 6'' legs to the doubled eye wire.I was guessing on the length of the wires and got close to your recomendations.at least they're a hair too long instead of short.They sure were fun to make.I can see several more molds in my future.


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## sharkchum

peckerwood said:


> Mr. Shark,I got lucky and made mine almost the same as you,except for the eye,I made one wire 13'' long and made a loop in the middle making 2 legs,then tied 2 6'' legs to the doubled eye wire.I was guessing on the length of the wires and got close to your recomendations.at least they're a hair too long instead of short.They sure were fun to make.I can see several more molds in my future.


There is nothing wrong with that at all. It's always better to have the legs to long than to make them to short. If I'm fishing in clay and the weights are sticking to hard I just cut a couple inches off the legs so they are easier to pull out. Another good mold to have for surf fishing is the pyramid weights. I use the 1oz -4oz for the small rods to catch whiting and croaker, and the 5oz and 6oz on the big rods when the current's not bad. I usually make mine when the weather is to bad to go fishing and it's a very productive way to pass the time. You may already know this, but always make sure your lead is dry before dropping in the melting pot, any moisture at all will cause it to explode, covering you in molten lead, I learned this the hard way.


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## deatonic

Where do y'all get your lead? I was looking at pouring some weights, but by the time you buy the molds and the lead and factor in time, it doesn't seem like you come out too far ahead. Online I can buy 10 3oz pyramid for $6. I don't think I can make them cheaper than that if I have to buy the lead.


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## peckerwood

I scrounged a 5 gal. bucket full of wheel weights and had a bunch of plumbing vents.You can't save money if you decide I'm going to make my own weights right now and pay full retail and shipping for lead and molds.When your line sounds like a .22 rifle shot and your spider weight goes out of sight,you'll be glad you didn't pay $4.00 for it.


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## jimj100

deatonic said:


> Where do y'all get your lead? I was looking at pouring some weights, but by the time you buy the molds and the lead and factor in time, it doesn't seem like you come out too far ahead. Online I can buy 10 3oz pyramid for $6. I don't think I can make them cheaper than that if I have to buy the lead.


I have never seen a deal that good. Most folks ship lead in a flat rate box for $5.80. I'm not sure I get anything shipped for less than that. Can't imagine how your guy ships 30oz of lead for so cheap. Mudhole charges me $11.55 for a spool of thread!

I get my lead off eBay. 15-20 lbs (in flat rate box) for around $25, if memory serves.


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## sharkchum

I've been collecting lead for years and probably have close to 500# laying around. You can get it from tire weights, plumbing vents, old telephone box's or from the water. After a strong cold front blows through and the water level drops you can easily pick up 20# to 50# in a few hours walking along the dike from lost leaders and cast nets. If I had to pay the going price for lead I wouldn't make my own weights.


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## iamatt

sharkchum said:


> I've been collecting lead for years and probably have close to 500# laying around. You can get it from tire weights, plumbing vents, old telephone box's or from the water. After a strong cold front blows through and the water level drops you can easily pick up 20# to 50# in a few hours walking along the dike from lost leaders and cast nets. If I had to pay the going price for lead I wouldn't make my own weights.


 Good info. I guess you have to justify the time spent versus just paying for it. For me, 3 hours of my time is not worth saving 25 dollars. But that is not to say I would not take a peek at the waters edge! My last go around I was donated cases of 40 year old dove shells that were bad. So just have to keep your eyes open for the opportunities and think 'out side of the box'.... or just pay for the box.


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## JSimpson65

deatonic said:


> Where do y'all get your lead? I was looking at pouring some weights, but by the time you buy the molds and the lead and factor in time, it doesn't seem like you come out too far ahead. Online I can buy 10 3oz pyramid for $6. I don't think I can make them cheaper than that if I have to buy the lead.


The above works out to over $3.00 per lb. - you can buy lead for 1/3rd of that. The real costs come from spider weights which are considerably more expensive than pyramids to buy, but don't cost much more to make yourself.

Scrapyards can be another source, but it's hit or miss. I bought about 30lbs of roof flashing once for $30, plus a few tire weight scores, but maybe 1 in 5 of my trips are worthwhile. Again, looking at cost vs. time I usually opt for Ebay where you can get down close to $1 per lb. buying 50 or 60 lbs at a time.

I used to do a lot of boolit casting, so buying 60lbs of lead wasn't that much.


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## bjones2571

jimj100 said:


> I have never seen a deal that good. Most folks ship lead in a flat rate box for $5.80. I'm not sure I get anything shipped for less than that. Can't imagine how your guy ships 30oz of lead for so cheap. Mudhole charges me $11.55 for a spool of thread!
> 
> I get my lead off eBay. 15-20 lbs (in flat rate box) for around $25, if memory serves.


His is probably from ebay as well. Here's 70 3 oz pyramids for $35 shipped.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/70ct-3oz-su...705?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item257a0996b1


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## Greatwhite

bottom dwellers tackle has the claw weight molds a little cheaper for anyone interested. 27 bucks vs 33 but im not sure what shipping translates out to


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## sharkchum

Greatwhite said:


> bottom dwellers tackle has the claw weight molds a little cheaper for anyone interested. 27 bucks vs 33 but im not sure what shipping translates out to


Sounds like a deal to me. I just ordered a new claw mold for 2oz,3oz, and 4oz, I let someone use mine and they never brought it back, and a storm sinker mold for 2oz,3oz and,4oz with 100 #2 eyes and the total was $65.75. The shipping was $7.95 weather I bought 1 or 2. That is the cheapest I've paid for molds, thanks for the imfo.


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## Greatwhite

No problem, everyone likes to save a little dough.
That place is usually great on prices, but only some of the tackle translates to surf type fishing so not alot of guys here know about it. 

I picked up the 2,3,4 and a 5.5, 8 mold. 
I totally forgot I had a 50 dollar credit in paypal so the two molds only rung up to $12 something when I payed up.

:brew2:


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## peckerwood

I reckon my time isn't as valuable as some cats,but I sure get a lot of satisfaction outta doing little things like pouring weights.I don't care if I broke even or maybe go in the red a little.


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## Greatwhite

Agreed. I look at things in a "time is money" way all the time but when it comes to fishing, fishing gear or thinking about fishing. I find the time.

I know two seperate tire shops that give me lead. I collect what I need through the week then catch an evening or a Sunday and have me a case of beer and make weights, re spool reels, clean gear, organize....

It's how I wind down.


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## peckerwood

Sounds like your head is screwed on straight GW.Some folks buy chemicals to wind down.Hunting and fishing gear,and beer on a crappy day,I'm set.


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## sharkchum

sharkchum said:


> Sounds like a deal to me. I just ordered a new claw mold for 2oz,3oz, and 4oz, I let someone use mine and they never brought it back, and a storm sinker mold for 2oz,3oz and,4oz with 100 #2 eyes and the total was $65.75. The shipping was $7.95 weather I bought 1 or 2. That is the cheapest I've paid for molds, thanks for the imfo.


I just ordered these molds from bottom dwellers last Friday and I got them in this morning, very fast shipping. I poured a hand full of the storm sinkers this afternoon to see what they looked like. I've never used this type of sinker before, so I guess I'll find out how they work next weekend.


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## fishhawkxxx

is barlows still around???


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## [email protected]

SC, I have used those sinkers for years. They work great. Good job on pouring them.


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## fishhawkxxx

where can I get a spider weight mold? I know sea ponies have them, but I will be up north for a few more months


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## sharkchum

fishhawkxxx said:


> where can I get a spider weight mold? I know sea ponies have them, but I will be up north for a few more months


http://www.bottomdwellerstackle.com/doit_molds.htm


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## Greatwhite

Lookin good.
I still need to make a trip to the local welding store for some wire and test mine out next weekend hopefully


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## Gilbert

does anyone in the sugar land/richmond area have mold and pour their own weights? I have lead but no molds.


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## jimj100

Gilbert said:


> does anyone in the sugar land/richmond area have mold and pour their own weights? I have lead but no molds.


I gotta say, you don't need to buy a mold to pour these weights. You can use lots of things to cast these weights. Here's what I've done: I took 2 red oak scraps (1x2s, 8 inches long or so) and clamped them together. Then i bored them out w/ a drill bit, of varying size. If you pass all the way thru, you can clamp metal strap to the bottom w/ a hole in it for your wires. You can leave bottom intact and just make your wires come out the top on the same side as your wire loop you snap swivel onto. If i can find my molds in all my packed boxes, i'll try and post a pic (I just moved to new orleans...)

I have also seen people cut little bamboo sections to pour in, then they just crack off the bamboo after the lead is solid. I have heard of people using PVC too.
Lots of possibilities for nearly free. They are undoubtedly uglier, but they will sink just as good, and the wire will dig into sand just as well.


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## fishhawkxxx

thanx chum, exactly what i was looking for!


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## sharkchum

fishhawkxxx said:


> thanx chum, exactly what i was looking for!


I had never heard of that place until Greatwhite brought it up. I've been paying $40+ for each mold, they are way cheeper.


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## sharkchum

Gilbert said:


> does anyone in the sugar land/richmond area have mold and pour their own weights? I have lead but no molds.


I have a few molds and the melting pot, but I'm a hour away.


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## JFolm

Shark,

What size is the biggest bank mold you have?

Another +1 for bottom dwellers.


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## sharkchum

JFolm said:


> Shark,
> 
> What size is the biggest bank mold you have?
> 
> Another +1 for bottom dwellers.


16oz, It's what I used offshore for snapper and grouper.


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## JFolm

sharkchum said:


> 16oz, It's what I used offshore for snapper and grouper.


10-4. I have a mold for 16oz. Cannon balls. Thinking about getting a bank mold for 24oz.


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## Greatwhite

picked up some 1/16" stainless today at the local praxair place. 
Was like 16 bucks for 2 lbs worth of wire. Pieces look to be 36" in length. 

Had to laugh, the guy asked me what I needed it for. He could tell that since i wasn't sure what they called it i was no welder. 

He said that the biggest majority of stainless he sells isn't even to guys that weld. "Theyre all making something" he said. 

So materials wise, not counting beer, Im less than 20 bucks in. Thats only a few weights at academy. Of coarse counting the molds Ill have a little more initially in cost.


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## JFolm

Greatwhite said:


> picked up some 1/16" stainless today at the local praxair place.
> Was like 16 bucks for 2 lbs worth of wire. Pieces look to be 36" in length.
> 
> Had to laugh, the guy asked me what I needed it for. He could tell that since i wasn't sure what they called it i was no welder.
> 
> He said that the biggest majority of stainless he sells isn't even to guys that weld. "Theyre all making something" he said.
> 
> So materials wise, not counting beer, Im less than 20 bucks in. Thats only a few weights at academy. Of coarse counting the molds Ill have a little more initially in cost.


I've never bought wire so I don't know the price difference but you could go with a carbon wire to save more on the welding wire ( tig wire, heliarc wire). Guys use stainless for corrosion reasons but if youre not worried about looks (surface rust) then I wouldn't worry about using stainless.

If you still want stainless then the 304 (lower grade stainless) may be a little cheaper.

Just thinking out loud for the long term savings.


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## Greatwhite

Been down that road. Finding a wire that would shape and not be too soft or too stiff was hard enough. But as much as we hit the sand the legs didn't last long at all. 

This stuff was cheap enough. I'm sure it could bout bought somewhat cheaper but at this point it's splitting hairs Id say.

This is just an estimate but if each weight uses 1' of wire. 17$ got me 59 sticks at 3' each.
Three weights per stick.
177 weights total.
Would be .10 per weight because leads free. Of coarse this isnt counting the mold price.

This is all just an estimate. I'm sure there will be a little waste here or there. I'll figure it out better today.
Heck sharkchum may already have a price breakdown.


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## Greatwhite

Never mind. I wasn't thinking. Misread chums initial tips. The breakdown will be more than that. It'll be closer to .20 cents per weight


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## coogerpop

fishingtwo said:


> The first ones I made way back when I used a cup of hard packed sand. They were a little ugly but they worked.
> They worked really good as I used coathanger wire. They would dig in and almost bust a gut trying to get them reeled back in.
> If something hit, it would hook itself.
> Needless to say those were not used unless I cut the wire very very short.


I used to do their same thing.wet sand in a bucket...coat hanger wire...worked great....


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## iamatt

jimj100 said:


> I gotta say, you don't need to buy a mold to pour these weights. You can use lots of things to cast these weights. Here's what I've done: I took 2 red oak scraps (1x2s, 8 inches long or so) and clamped them together. Then i bored them out w/ a drill bit, of varying size. If you pass all the way thru, you can clamp metal strap to the bottom w/ a hole in it for your wires. You can leave bottom intact and just make your wires come out the top on the same side as your wire loop you snap swivel onto. If i can find my molds in all my packed boxes, i'll try and post a pic (I just moved to new orleans...)
> 
> I have also seen people cut little bamboo sections to pour in, then they just crack off the bamboo after the lead is solid. I have heard of people using PVC too.
> Lots of possibilities for nearly free. They are undoubtedly uglier, but they will sink just as good, and the wire will dig into sand just as well.


Been using galvenized pipe from home D-pot lately. Have yet to buy lead but getting low so the extra weight of the pipe saves on the amount of lead I need. Not sure if there is any reaction between the two metals and saltwater but have not seen anything weird going on, yet.


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