# If you like to weld, this is a must have:



## barronj (Sep 30, 2013)

I've been using the composite blades on my metal chop saw forever, but noticed that the steel supplier I buy from makes their cuts with these blades.
Not eager to fork over the $100 for a saw blade, I took a long time to commit, but I did, and it's night and day over the composite wheel style blades. I think you can also find it for $80 on Amazon.

The composite blades tend to over heat metal at times, always seem to walk while cutting, and take time. These blades are precise, quick, and clean!

I can't wait to knock out my next couple of planned projects with this blade.

Current two projects are a cradle for a new (to me) Superwinch X3 I bought to load things on my new flatbed trailer, and a receiver hitch basket.

Recently built a carrier for my dirt bike (before buying this blade)
Bike rack frame is made of 1 x 1.5 rectangular tubing.


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## reese (Oct 9, 2005)

Yep, I've had the complete Evolution saw for about 2 years now, it rocks. Blades at Lowes are $ 86 I think.


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## j4577 (Feb 11, 2013)

Not sure if you are talking about the abrasive blades and then using this blade in the same saw, but these blades are lower maximum rpm. Regular abrasive blade chop saw runs much faster rpm. If Iâ€™m wrong I apologize, just wouldnâ€™t want someone to get hurt. I didnâ€™t know the saw rpm was different when I got ready to change over to this type of blade until the welding supply informed me of it. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## barronj (Sep 30, 2013)

Good point. I'm not sure what the RPM is on my Hitachi. Guess I'd better get learnt.

Uh, yeah, you're absolutely right. My hitachi has a 4000rpm motor and this blade calls for a 1600rpm motor.

Looks like I'll be selling the hitachi!

The counter guy at my steel sales place is new, pretty sure the old guy would've warned me.


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## TwoKewl'er (Oct 10, 2017)

J is correct.....these are designed to be low RPM but high torque so if you run that blade on a regular chop saw your pretty much gonna ruin the blade and sling off the teeth.

In the long run the investment maybe worth it to you or not. Really the only down fall IMO is that they are loud. The benefits are many,,,,,super clean cuts, excellent fit ups when marrying angles, only burr is on the drop piece, cut it cold and fast, you can have the teeth resharpened or replaced. 
As mentioned on the abrasive blades they walk on ya, the blade shrinks over the life of it, and the cut is hot and takes longer but the price is right.

Pro tip if your gonna cut angle iron or square tubing make sure you set the metal with the angle up, that way the teeth do not catch as much when you 1st enter the metal, also always let the saw ramp up to full speed before starting an just ease into the metal to start and the teeth will thank you

Fyi there are different blades for different material,,,,steel, stainless, alum etc....the blades are color code,,,,,what you have is steel......the difference is the # of teeth per blade

Carry on


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## reese (Oct 9, 2005)

Yep, I missed that and I agree with the others, your saw is too fast.

I have the chop saw. Dwilliams35 uses a handheld version, maybe he will post up a pic and more info on his.


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## Hooked (Oct 15, 2004)

This site continues to cost me $$$........lol

I seldom have a need to cut metal so when I do there is generally a wasted blade or lots of filing/grounding at the end. I've never taken the time to research good metal cutting blades so ya'll just showed me a new, and better, way to make these cuts. Reading through the Evolution site I found they have smaller blades which are suitable to my circular saws and possibly use in my miter saw as well.

Thanks for the heads up baronj. I'll be ordering a couple of these blades today.


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## barronj (Sep 30, 2013)

Hooked said:


> This site continues to cost me $$$........lol
> Reading through the Evolution site I found they have smaller blades which are suitable to my circular saws and possibly use in my miter saw as well.


You might end up with the same problem as I discovered w/ RPM, the skill saw might turn the blade too fast, resulting in damaged teeth.

I pulled the trigger on the lesser expensive of the two saws that Evolution makes. It comes with a multi use blade that can cut mild steel, but I will switch it out for the other evolution blade I bought, one dedicated to mild steel.

The two versions of the Evolution saw appear to have similar 1800 watt, 15 amp, motors on them, but the bigger*, more expensive of the two has a max rpm of 1650, the smaller has a max of 1450. The stated max RPM on the blade that set this all in motion is 1600rpm
The max thickness that they are rated is similar, but oddly, the smaller version has a slightly higher thickness rating on the Home Depot site.

I'm using bigger/smaller, but the size I'm referencing is the base. The base on the smaller one is the same (almost universal) size of my Hitachi, and many of the other common abrasive disc version metal chop saws on the market. They are so similar in fact that I will probably pull the one feature off my Hitachi that the smaller Evolution doesn't have, the quick release for the tension screw. On first glance, the appear to bolt on the base in the same fashion. Wouldn't be a tool in my arsenal without a story behind it. Frankensaw it is.

Smaller Evolution $187

Larger Evolution $382


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## Hooked (Oct 15, 2004)

Looking at the specs, the smaller blades are rated for the higher RPMs. Example: 8" mild steel blade is rated for 5800 rpm which believe will work in my old Milwaukee 8 1/4" saw. The 6" blade may work in my Makita 18 volt.

I need a new saw though. 

Glad you started this thread.....


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## dwilliams35 (Oct 8, 2006)

reese said:


> I have the chop saw. Dwilliams35 uses a handheld version, maybe he will post up a pic and more info on his.





















This thing has been absolutely invaluable during the build on that pit I have on the thread in the BBQ forum: a phenomenal timesaver, cuts sheetmetal with an edge that looks like you milled it. Iâ€™m on my third one, actually, and Iâ€™m not going to lie, it was my fault entirely: first one, I was cutting plate for the firebox. I got a little cocky and stacked two 3/8 plates, and proceeded to cut that for 24â€. That got it pretty hot, and a couple of days later it flamed out. I sent it back to Milwaukee, they put a new motor in and sent it back under warranty. A few months later, basically did the same thing ripping a full sheet of 1/4â€ plate the long way, just got past the duty cycle on that one, I guess. Sent it back again, and this time they sent back a new saw, the new FUEL brushless model. I havenâ€™t been able to kill it yet, that was probably June or July or so.

It has really been amazing how much time that thing saved though, I was pretty impressed when I got the plasma cutter, but itâ€™s got nothing on this thing as far as simple everyday usefulness.

And before somebody asks, itâ€™s not a regular saw with a metal blade, itâ€™s specific to metal cutting. Sealed up a lot better so you donâ€™t get chips embedded in your forehead. I think the actual rating is 1/8 or 3/16 plate, I canâ€™t remember for sure. I consider that more of a guideline than a rule, obviously.


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## Hooked (Oct 15, 2004)

Thanks for that last comment. I was considering getting just the blade to use in my old Milwaukee circular saw. Sounds like I should reconsider getting the saw you have.


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## jtburf (May 26, 2004)

If you weld at home for DIY projects this is a must have!!!

If you weld any stainless steel at all you need one with a HEPA filter...

http://www.avanienvironmental.com/d...able-fume-collector/spc-230-portable-handheld

John


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## dwilliams35 (Oct 8, 2006)

jtburf said:


> If you weld at home for DIY projects this is a must have!!!
> 
> If you weld any stainless steel at all you need one with a HEPA filter...
> 
> John


What, to set your beer on?


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## reese (Oct 9, 2005)

Kara yoke machine ?


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