# Anchoring deer stand on rocky ground?



## bobbyoshay (Nov 29, 2008)

Put a 10' 4x6 aluminum tower stand up in the Bracketville area. Where the stand is located is solid rock once i get around 5'" deep. Currently have a trashcan (30-40 gallon) that i filled with rocks and concrete to use as an anchor with an auger set in said concrete. I would like to have it secured better but the manufacturers recommended procedure of using dynamite is not going to happen. I dont really want to tow a tractor to lease to use a huge auger but will if i have no other options. Any past experience?


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## Reel Aggies (Nov 30, 2007)

we always tied off securely to any cedar tree bases that were close. never had any issues with blowing over at our lease.


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## wtc3 (Aug 16, 2005)

I was in the same predicament a few years ago. I finally just moved the stand to softer ground and trimmed up the brush to make new shooting lanes.


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## bobbyoshay (Nov 29, 2008)

Reel Aggies said:


> we always tied off securely to any cedar tree bases that were close. never had any issues with blowing over at our lease.


no trees.....only sage around



wtc3 said:


> I was in the same predicament a few years ago. I finally just moved the stand to softer ground and trimmed up the brush to make new shooting lanes.


the surrounding area is solid rock as well. i drove around with bobcat digging and then walked a huge area trying to drive in rebar but continuously hit rock


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## SSST (Jun 9, 2011)

Been in this predictament before, nothing much you can do but tie to a nearby tree if that's even an option, I had a tower on a granite slab near Llano for years, but i had it tied to cedar trees and it held.


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## SSST (Jun 9, 2011)

Sorry I didn't catch your post until i sent mine, sounds like you probably don't have many options, sounds like your setup may be what you're gonna have to go with.


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## mudcatz71 (Jun 8, 2006)

i have a idea never tried it but what about concrete anchor bolts. build you a 6"x6'' square piece out of 1/4'' metal weld a chain link in middle, drill a hole in each corner. Then dig all dirt off rock with a hammer drill and masonary bit pilot your holes for your anchor plates bolt it down. that might give you something solid to tie to.


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## pg542 (Oct 9, 2006)

If you have access to a roto- hammer drill and a small generator. You can drill holes in the rock and drive rebar to run guy wires to each corner of your tower. Just angle the rebar as though it were a tent stake. If you use 5/8 rebar and tie your guywires off near the bottom, you should be good to go. Use some simple hardware store turnbuckles as tensioners. Keep your guywires marked clearly for 4wheelers and dusk/dawn approach. Another option is to drill a hole beside each foot of the tower. Drill them at a 45 degree angle to the leg. Use the same rebar idea to fasten each leg down using u-bolts. I've done it both ways in really rocky areas. good luck. Mudcatz has good idea too, just make sure you use at least 6" anchor bolts when bolting the plate down.


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## spurgersalty (Jun 29, 2010)

Just buy 8 2X4's and nail them from forward leg at top to rear leg where ever it hits ran past a little as a "kicker" of sorts. Repeat for each leg twice. May not look pretty but may keep you from having to "settle" for a different spot.


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## RB II (Feb 26, 2009)

Either weld "feet" on the stand or fab a pipe "inside or over leg" slide in/over foot, drill and through bolt and install masonry/concrete anchors or rebar. 
If you make the feet big enough you could simply stack rocks on the feet. 
Or you could bury an anchor (piece of angle iron or rebar, etc.) stack rocks on the anchor. 
The first would be best, but others would probably work if enough rocks are stacked up.


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## finkikin (Jul 8, 2011)

mudcatz71 said:


> i have a idea never tried it but what about concrete anchor bolts. build you a 6"x6'' square piece out of 1/4'' metal weld a chain link in middle, drill a hole in each corner. Then dig all dirt off rock with a hammer drill and masonary bit pilot your holes for your anchor plates bolt it down. that might give you something solid to tie to.


if you need anchor bolts i work for a fastener company...PM me. we can work something out.


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## coogerpop (Sep 3, 2009)

we took a 55 gl drum,cut the top out and filled it with rocks...made a cable bridle up to the base of the stand and a turnbuckle to tighten it....been in Del Rio up on the crest of a ridge for many years,,,


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## JDJM (Jun 8, 2004)

If you take the time, you can drill holes at each corner by hand using a San Angelo bar. The hole is big enough to cement in a t post in the hole. Drill it as deep as you think it should be. I've drilled them a couple of feet deep in solid rock. It just takes some time.


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## Marshman (Jul 24, 2008)

We have the same issues at our place. We stretch a piece of hog wire across the base, sometimes have to weld angle iron on the base to attach, and fill it with large rocks. Like 1000 pounds of rock!! Won't blow over, and makes it real hard to steal, although that is not a problem on our place.

I'll get you a picture this weekend.


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## Bucksnort (Jun 29, 2004)

pg542 said:


> If you have access to a roto- hammer drill and a small generator. You can drill holes in the rock and drive rebar to run guy wires to each corner of your tower. Just angle the rebar as though it were a tent stake. If you use 5/8 rebar and tie your guywires off near the bottom, you should be good to go. Use some simple hardware store turnbuckles as tensioners. Keep your guywires marked clearly for 4wheelers and dusk/dawn approach. Another option is to drill a hole beside each foot of the tower. Drill them at a 45 degree angle to the leg. Use the same rebar idea to fasten each leg down using u-bolts. I've done it both ways in really rocky areas. good luck. Mudcatz has good idea too, just make sure you use at least 6" anchor bolts when bolting the plate down.


exactly, we rented a hilti drill from the equipment rental place and did the procedure described above. I will be surprised if your set up will work. You are fixing to get some very strong blue northerns that can take your blind to the next county.


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## Archer (Jul 10, 2006)

Shouldn't even need a big hammer drill. I had the same problem last year with a feeder and bought a concrete bit slightly samller than the anchor stakes and drilled through with my 18v. Ryobi, then drove the anchor bars down with a 3lb hammer. I now have the Ryobi hammer drill which does work a little better but it can be done with either.

Home Depot has some really nice anchor stakes that come in lengths from 2-4 ft. with multiple holes near the top for running your tie wires through. They usually have them near the rebar, I believe they are around 5/8" or 9/16, and I bought a 1/2"x 16" concrete bit to bore the holes, they worked great.


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## kweber (Sep 20, 2005)

if it's still there tomorrow you should be OK


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## RobaloSunrise (Jun 10, 2011)

cordless hammer drill and 3/8" red heads


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## kweber (Sep 20, 2005)

I've seen alot of blinds with one big anchor right under the blind w/ 4 wires off the bottom coners down to it.


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## Bucksnort (Jun 29, 2004)

kweber said:


> I've seen alot of blinds with one big anchor right under the blind w/ 4 wires off the bottom coners down to it.


Had guys do this and it doesn't work. Stand starts rocking in heavy wind and boom its on the ground. You need four guide wires coming off each side to help offset with the swaying.


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## Marshman (Jul 24, 2008)

Most of our blinds are on ridges, using anchors or guy wires didn't work so well. As was said above, the wind gets to rocking the blind , loosens the anchors and bam it's over. 

We have found that lots of weight, down low on the frame, is the best insurance from finding a toppled blind the morning after a front. And it is usually bitter cold and raining, and you gots no other place to be.


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## bobbyoshay (Nov 29, 2008)

Currently headed to lease. Rented hammer drill and purchased more wire. Plan on running 4 more guide wires out from stand and leave the current setup. I'm praying I don't drive up to find stand on its side. My saving grace may be the ladder is on the south side and should help it from blowing over. In 2 hours I shall know


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## bobbyoshay (Nov 29, 2008)

Happy to report that the trash can full of concrete did its job. Stand hasn't wiggled an inch and isn't rocking while inside. To be safe I'm adding more guide wires outside of base. 

On a side note.....my feeder didn't fare so well! Must anchor it down


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## RobaloSunrise (Jun 10, 2011)

Two thumbs up.


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## bobbyoshay (Nov 29, 2008)

i shouldnt have to worry about this stand anymore 










thanks for all your help.....


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## Bucksnort (Jun 29, 2004)

Good deal. I think your good to go.


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## pg542 (Oct 9, 2006)

Bucksnort said:


> Good deal. I think your good to go.


...x2..looks solid......just be careful around the guywires when it's dark. damhikt.....ouch....


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