# Tring a couple of new things



## JS Fog (Sep 4, 2012)

Here is my first bullet pen, and pill key ring. The 7MM pen is my first crack at a CA finish.


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## Tortuga (May 21, 2004)

I'd say you wuz catchin' on right quick, Foggy...

That CA finish is great...and I think that is one of the toughest ones to try.

Really like your 'bullet pen'... See if you can get yore hands on some deer antler sheds and give them a try for the top.. Really get's hunters interested in the pens.. If ya have any trouble locating some antler sheds let me know and I will scratch up a few for you.... Drilling them is a booger...but turning and finishing is easy...

Excellent work....:cheers:


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## bill (May 21, 2004)

well done

if you don't have any, get some micro mesh up to 12k grit

really bring out the shine on your pens


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## JS Fog (Sep 4, 2012)

I have 30 or 40 deer antler sheds, so getting my hands of some is not a problem. I just have to get up the nerve to try. I am not sure how to finish them, and was told to make sure my tools are very sharp. I am still trying to learn to sharpen my tools. I hope to take a class next month. Any advice on sharpening would be helpful.


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## JS Fog (Sep 4, 2012)

I do have micro mesh. I have been using it to wet sand the wood before I do a friction polish, and to finish the CA. Can I us the micro mesh after I put the friction polish on the wood? I have done a couple of other pieces with a CA finish and they turned our great. They are going to be gifts so I can't post them until I give them. Any suggestion is appreciated.


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## bill (May 21, 2004)

I use regular sandpaper up to 600 on wood. (this is where I use the DNA to clean it up before going to the CA) Then the CA finish and then the micro mesh. I usually just go to the buffer at that point but some do use a wet polish ( Meguiars auto polish is very good and works as well if not better than the high priced "cream finish" that is sold on woodworking sites..some even use Brasso but I find it cuts too harsh once I have my finish done)

The reason I stop at 600 on bare wood is the CA needs to be able to bond and hold, otherwise what I found to happen is the CA will sliver or come loose.

There are some woods that after sanding to 600, I use a dry paper bag to "burnish". I do this on oily woods. It lays the grain down nice and tight and any oils on the surface really start to shine. One paper bag from the grocery store will last a very long time and just another thing to try. I just cut it into strips.

Your really doing good. Keep it up


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## speckle-catcher (May 20, 2004)

Sharpening is a good thing to learn "hands on" - but I understand a video from Kirk De Hees (video available from Craft Supply USA) is very good.

also - see if you can reach "Mr Bill" here on 2cool. He does an excellent job at teaching sharpening.

I do not wet sand any wood...ever. Wood absorbs water, which in turn raises the grain. For wood pens, I dry sand up to 400 or 600 grit, then apply finish. Always stop the lathe and sand along the blank in each grit before moving to the next grti. That step removes the radial sanding marks.

after 600 grit, I'll apply either CA finish or friction polish depending on the feel of the pen you want upon completion. CA has a plastic feel to it, friction polish leaves a more natural finish. There are other finishes you can use instead of friction polish: General Finishes "Woodturners Finish", Tung oil, and Minwax wipe-on poly are a few. I would not use MM after friction polish. You could use MM dry (with a light touch, it will burn through very easily) then apply friction polish.

if you do a CA finish, then you start wet sanding. How smooth I've applied the CA determines where I start with grit...usually 220 wet/dry paper to knock down the ridges, then 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000 and then through all grades of micro-mesh. You can also use a buffing system and eliminate some of the MM.


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## speckle-catcher (May 20, 2004)

bill - you can also use wood shavings from your turning to burnish. just reach down, grab a handful and get busy.


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## bill (May 21, 2004)

speckle-catcher said:


> bill - you can also use wood shavings from your turning to burnish. just reach down, grab a handful and get busy.


I would need to open my shop vac to get any LOL I would think you could grab up some unknown hard thing if you have a pile of shavings on the ground. Paper bag has no sharp/hard thing 

I do agree, never wet sand bare wood. You will need to use something (paper bag or even a folded paper towel ect) if you put on any type of wet finish on bare wood (tung oil ect) to get the grain to lay back down from swelling


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## JS Fog (Sep 4, 2012)

Ok you two play nice. You have given me enough information to research and try for now. What I am learning in everyone has their own little tricks of the trade. I will keep asking questions I hope you will keep giving me guidance.


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## speckle-catcher (May 20, 2004)

Who's not playing nice?

You're right though, there are many different ways to accomplish a nice finished product. 

The nice thing I've found about most turners, is that they're willing to share.


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## Robert A. (Jan 8, 2009)

I sand my antler to 600, then apply a CA finish on it, wet sand my CA finish to 1,000.00 then use Hut Plastic Polish..


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