# 1860 Lowe center console rebuild



## Mrtoler (Dec 2, 2010)

I have this posted on a couple boat forums so I'm copy and pasting it here also for people who might be interested. If anything dosent make sence just ask!

I finally got me a big Jon boat, it's a 18' mod v center console with a 75hp mercury mariner. I've been looking for along time and found a few that fit the bill but the sells kept falling through! This boat is awesome for me, I'll be able to gig flounder as well as chase redfish through the shallow marsh, and when I need a fresh water fill I can hit the crappie holes and bass fish too it's going to be a fishing machine. I got it at a great price and acutely was able to talk the guy down a thousand bucks, it needs a paint job for sure I'm still trying to decide what color I want (black or red) and it also needs the carpet replaced. Ill most likely just take it 100% apart and stArt from square one so ill know the boat top to bottom. I'd like to have a T-top and leaning post but I might do a cooler flip flop seat, I also am going to add flotation pods to the transom, then trick it out with a bunch of LEDs... Here's the only pic I have so far, I'll get some more soon


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## Mrtoler (Dec 2, 2010)

I worked most of the day so I only had about an hour to tinker with the boat today. Pics



















This boat has 3 livewells the two here (open lids) and the cooler infront of the console



















The pumps and drains




























I removed the livewells to get a better look at the plumbing underneath



















Also pulled up some carpet










I know she's pretty ugly now but I see potential, it has a wood floor that's fiberglassed in and carpeted over that. I'm going to redo all this. I'm not sure what type of floor I'm going back with yet, I'd like aluminum and I for sure don't want carpet but well see!


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## CoastalOutfitters (Aug 20, 2004)

looks like fun'

would not suggest you put a t-top on it, might look at a pop-up something or a folding bimini

might look for a smaller alum console, raise it to the back seat for storage and deck across the back seat to the transom. add a small leaning post or cooler w rack to sit on

another cooler in front w cushion

strip the carpet and bedliner or similar the floor



what are the 2 chains doing ?


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## Mrtoler (Dec 2, 2010)

Got to work on the boat today, all the wood on the boat is covered in fiberglass so the screws that hold the wood in place are also covered in fiberglass so I had to take a chisel and hammer and pry between the layers of the wood until I was able to get it out. It was back breaking work but will be worth it in the end. My dad said I should leave the floor alone and just build ontop of it, I'm not sure I want to do this since I seen a few spots in the floor that had moisture between the wood and fiberglass. The aluminum needs a MAJIOR cleaning, Im thinking about maybe stripping it 100% to the hull and having it sandblasted then paint it. Thoughts on this? And I'm still in the air as to what I'm going to use as a floor. Here some pics from today










The bilge area was really nasty, it had everything from sand and leaves to dead baitfish in it










All carpet removed










Here's a spot where the fiberglass didn't stick to the floor


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## Mrtoler (Dec 2, 2010)

Thanks costal outfitters, why do you not recommend a t top? This boat had a bimini top and I just dident like the look! The PO said he installed the chains because the transom had just a tad of flex while trailering the boat! I plan on beefing it up with new plate and some beefy braces!


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## Mrtoler (Dec 2, 2010)

I got the console all unwired an removed it today. My boat is 5' wide at the bottom and 7' wide across the top.


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## Mrtoler (Dec 2, 2010)

I got alot done last night, started on the floor with a big scraper an it took all the fiberglass up very easy, I was surprised to see how poor the condition of the wood was underneath. I bustedca whole section out with a hammer.










After the last big hunk of wood was removed










Removing the waterlogged foam










Finished for the night


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## Mrtoler (Dec 2, 2010)

I got bored today and did a quick sketch of how I would like the boat to look when finished. Ok remember I'm no artist and can't draw to save my life, but I needed to see my vision someplace other than my head. I did it so the outside wall is removed so you can see my idea I have for a floor plan. Notice the stand for the console and helm seat, I'm doing this to fit a larger gas tank under the console it will also have some storage under it. Around it is lit up with LEDs and there is also LEDs on the front and rear deck shining down on the bottom deck. There is rod holders mounted on the back wall and I plan on a set on the other side also... I know i cant do a T-Top right away but i will eventully get one.....Any questions about what something is (remember I'm no artist) or any suggestions about anything please let me know


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## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

I like it. Just be aware of weight and build light. Might want to make sure that set up in your drawing is light enough for the hull. That is a lot material. Might consider doing the raises console out of Al. tubbing to save a ton of weight. Keep the pics coming!!


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## CoastalOutfitters (Aug 20, 2004)

t-tops put a huge load on the floor and hull, esp. when trailering down the highway

i'm afraid you are going to rip your floor up and poss crack the stringers over time if you brace to them, which you should.

move the gas tank up under the console, maybe battery too if you can, to center the load in the hull, 

i suggested the raised console to the back , because you will find you are hurting for storage, you can go as high as those livewells and gain lots of cargo space

i have rigged several alum hulls and run an alweld 1860 still

keep it simple, the boats run best w/o tons of extra weight


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## jeff.w (Jan 22, 2006)

Ambition, vision and initiative. Very inspiring. Keep the updates coming. I agree with Coastal. Keep it simple, light and functional. I would rethink the t-top idea also. I've got a 2072 Weldcraft I can post a pic of to give you some ideas.


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## Mrtoler (Dec 2, 2010)

Thanks for the interest, the front deck is a decent size but I've still thought about extending it a tad more. The back deck is tiny and I'm for sure extending it, both of them are aluminum but had plywood on top of them. I was planning on going back with an aluminum frame for sure and hopefully plate for on top instead of wood. When I test drove it it was really stern heavy, I might move the console forward a bit to help with that and make a Lil more room for the back deck... Ill admit I'm going to have a hard time loosing the t top idea as I've been set on one from day one. Mine would be a folding one since there is a couple bridges I need to clear, wouldn't that help with stress on the floor when trailering?


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## Mrtoler (Dec 2, 2010)

Thanks Jeff, sure post some pics I appreciate any intrest and opinions I get! I had a lot of fun building my 24' pontoon boat some of you might remember it and have alot of pride in it, I'm hopeing this boat will turn out just as good!


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## andre3k (Dec 3, 2012)

Glad to see another rebuild thread. Gives me hope for my boat project. How is the motor? Plan on making any changes to it?


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## Mrtoler (Dec 2, 2010)

It ran awesome in the test drive, started right up no problem the next day when it was cold. I'm sure I'll give it a facelift with paint and new graphics, but honestly I wish it was a new 4 stroke but it does the job for now. The boat surprised me in how it ran I'm sure we were upper 30's no problem possibly touched 40!


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## longboat (Apr 14, 2008)

Congratulations, you've got a great boat. I ran one of those for many years - I like them much better than the new cookie-cutter Roughnecks. They are lightweight, yet run very well with a heavy load. They are also the shallowest non-tunnel flat-bottom boat I've driven.

My suggestions:
Lose all of the carpet and replace with bedliner or paint with sand in it. When painting, paint the topsides a light color (white or slightly off-white, maybe with blue overtones) to keep it cool in the sun.

I would forget about the pods and save your $ to put a new lightweight Yamaha 70hp on the transom. It will be much better for your transom, and I don't think you'll lose any performance because you will be a good 100lbs or more lighter on the transom. The boat I ran had a Merc 60 Bigfoot and ran mid-30s easily.

As CO mentioned, be careful about putting a t-top on that boat. The hull already flexes quite a bit (one of things I liked about that boat) and not sure it would take a t-top easily. I would avoid it altogether and throw a golf umbrella over the console on hot days.

As mentioned earlier, keep the weight down on that boat. It will run beautifully when lightly loaded (although it will pound in a chop), run shallow and still carry a heavy load when you need it to. It will also handle pretty big water considering its size. That was a good hull to start with, and there is no need to modify it heavily. Clean it up good, give it a good paint job and concentrate on the little things that make life easier. I think you will be happier in the long run...


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## fowlwaters (Jun 14, 2006)

A light motor will not do the same as pods. You are going to tie up a good chunk of change doing all those mods aluminum is not cheap.


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## jeff.w (Jan 22, 2006)

Here's a couple pics of mine Mrtoler. It's a very simple layout. The hull is a 1996 Weldcraft and 20' x 72". The floor is aluminum with floatation under it, all welded. The entire inside has been done by SafeFloor with the rubber granules. This not only helped with traction or the summer heat on your feet, but also helped quieten down the ride considerably. The console is 32" wide with a poly 19 gal tank underneath. I had a custom leaning post built that has a storage tray under it, with rocket launchers on the back. One thing I don't like is clutter, so the storage tray was a must. I also built a box out of starboard with a hinged lid and stainless hardware that sits on top of the console. It's as wide as the console and about 6" deep. I also have additional horizontal rod holders on the sides of the boat to use when trailering. Large 2-step sponsons on the back and no tunnel with a 6" jackplate. 

A couple of upgrades that I've done to it over the past few years that I think were the most important was, first, add a Perko switch to the main battery cable. I think that is a MUST have for any aluminum boat. I also added a very small LED indicator light on the side of the console that stays on if the Perko is left on. It just reminds me to turn it off when sitting at home. Also make sure all of your anodes on the motor are clean and free of oxidation, and keep them that way. 2nd thing was adding a NFB helm. It had a tendency to pull pretty hard to the right while underway, but the helm eliminated that 100%. I also upgraded all of the fuel lines to ethanol approved, and added a water separator inline. I also added some LED lights under the console, on the front of the console and inside the back compartment for night fishing. 

I know you had your mind set on a T-Top, but I think that is a bad idea. When you're running across an open bay in 2 ft chop, you're asking for trouble with that thing bouncing around. 

I wish I had some better pics of the inside, but this is what I have for now. Good luck.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Nov 4, 2011)

If you want more floatation in the stern and buying a whole different motor is not an option, get pods added. It will be cheaper than buying a lighter outboard.

http://www.fishingscout.com/anglers/SmackDaddy


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## That Robbie Guy (Aug 11, 2009)

Always love the build threads! 

If you haven't already, tinboats.net is a good resource.


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## bjmillet (Apr 9, 2012)

If you decide to use wood, I would use thin (1/4, 5/16") plywood glassed with something like West System Epoxy. You can add stiffness by stiffening with 1x2's underneath.

It doesn't have to be West System Epoxy. System Three and MAS are both good. These epoxies are low viscousity and saturate the wood surface.

I've seen too many folks finish aluminum hull interiors with 3/4" CDX. You'll triple the boat weight.

Look at the center console for these boats.
http://www.jkwoodstudio.com/boats/index.php?page=23&type=Lake Skiff
http://www.harrisonboatworks.com/flipping-the-22-center-console/


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## Mrtoler (Dec 2, 2010)

Thanks for all the replys, once I get it all cleaned up and have any welding done that I need and then I'll paint it. I'm for sure going to use aluminum for the frames for extending the decks and the console stand and I'd like to use aluminum plate for the floor but it depends of the cost when I get ready for it. I really like the safe floor but I'm most likely taking the cheap way out and useing white grizzly grip I'd like to splatter some red paint on top of it to give it that bay boat look but I don't know if it would stick! I'm going to keep my console, I like the storage it has in front of it and it stays completely dry. I plan on using white steel flex on the bottom and the red marine rustoleum paint for the sides!


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## longboat (Apr 14, 2008)

Actually, your motor doesn't weigh that much (around 305lbs dry). The motor I had on mine was only 50lbs lighter. I really don't think you need pods on the back - that is a very nice hull as it is, and will run plenty shallow. As a point of reference, my current boat has pods, and I am generally a big proponent of them, but I would avoid them on that hull. If you find you are still stern-heavy, move batteries and/or fuel tanks up to the console - it will be a much better bet than pods on that hull.

If/when you do re-power, I'd still go with the Yamaha 70hp. If you're looking for a cheaper option, go with a used Yamaha 2-str 90hp (they are very light, around 260lbs dry). I believe 2010 was the last year that Yamaha sold 2-strokes.


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## fowlwaters (Jun 14, 2006)

Pods do more then just for weight no matter how light your motor is when you take off the back will dip down and pods and it stops it that is what pods are for.


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## Mrtoler (Dec 2, 2010)

On my test drive the stern set really low in the water, the console already had the fuel tank under it but it was behind the center point of the boat, the one and only battery was in the stern though, and that along with all the weight from the waterlogged foam and rotten wood in the back is most likely why. There was also nothing in the front of the boat so the bow rode high, when I start rebuilding it the console will be more at the center point of the boat and the gas tank will to since it will be under it. I can get as big as a 40 gal tank but I think I'm going to go with a 20gal. There will also be two batteries in the bow for the trolling motor and house battery, I'm hopping this will offset the weight a bit!


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## kodman1 (Sep 16, 2005)

The last boat that I rebuilt I left the deck/floor at the same level the manufacturer had it. Unfortunately it was under the water line and I had to pull the plugs as I was running if I wanted to get any water off the deck. If I were to do it again I would raise the deck enough so that it would be self baling. Have fun on the re-build and take plenty of pics.


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## McDaniel8402 (Dec 7, 2011)

I did a bunch of wood work on a 16' x 72" jon boat about 2 years ago. I got carried away with the wood. It looked pretty good, but it was outreageously heavy. Coupled with the fact that the transom had been modified by the pervious owner, and the motor i had on it was heavy (96' model 88hp Johnson), and i would take water over the transom really bad with it. Be mindful of the weight of matls used.


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## longboat (Apr 14, 2008)

fowlwaters said:


> Pods do more then just for weight no matter how light your motor is when you take off the back will dip down and pods and it stops it that is what pods are for.


I get that. I've had pods on the last two boats that I've run. As I've said, I am generally a big proponent of them, but don't think they are needed on this particular hull (I've driven a Roughneck 1960 extensively for seven years).

It sounds like the biggest issue may be extra heavy materials (e.g. - saturated wood) in the stern that aren't needed. Get rid of that stuff and the boat should perform much better. That particular hull is really forgiving when you add a lot of weight up front - carries it very well and still has plenty of trim.

To the OP, the Roughneck I ran had an aluminum floor riveted to the ribs. The aluminum wasn't too thick, but provided decent support with the sectioned foam boards underneath (between the ribs).

Fix up the rest of the boat and save the pods as a last resort. See how the boat performs, and if you still think you need the pods, have at it. I just don't think they will do much for that particular hull.


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## CoastalOutfitters (Aug 20, 2004)

offering 2c

go with real marine 3/4 plywood and no under blocking, it is plenty stiff, you will save the weight and not have to deal w blocking breaking free later and that hull can take that amnt of weight, look at what you just took out.

this also give you something stable to anchor cooler and such to

skip the lowes/hd cdx cheap treated plywood, it warps really bad


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## Mrtoler (Dec 2, 2010)

Haven't been doing much lately other than drilling out all the old rivets that where holding the wood to the decks and floors and cleaning on it. But I have to say that it's still a long way from clean. I still need to remove the motor and all the wiring, so I can flip the boat over and see about stripping the paint so I can mark any spots that need welding. One big thing I'm worried about is the transom, I've never replaced a transom before on a boat like this and it looks kinda difficult. If anybody could give me some tips to start this process it would be great. The PO had the chains on the transom kinda taking some of the flex out of it and I don't want to go back to that, I'd like to do an all aluminum transom but it depends on what's involved. If I go wood I like the idea of adding plate on the inside and outside to help stiffen it up...anybody have any helpful info?


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## Mrtoler (Dec 2, 2010)

I built my engine stand today and removed the engine. I knew the transom was in bad shape but man it just turns to dust when you touch around the bolt holes! So now the next step is a new transom...










Engine tucked away for now










I'll most likely clean this up and sell it so I can get a hydraulic one since this one is a manuel.


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## Mrtoler (Dec 2, 2010)

I worked almost all day on the boat, I got a lot of grunt work done. The whole bottom the transom and the bow are now 100% stripped



















I flipped the boat back over and got to work on the transom, I drilled out a few rivits and I had the tray over the back off and I got a good look at the transom DANG that thing is in bad shape. The previous owner did a bad job at patching some small leaks and the water that got in just got between the wood and the aluminum and also in-between the foam in the rear compartments. This caused som savere corrosion, Ill admit I had a few thought run through my head like why did I buy this junk! Since I'm in it this deap I'm going to bite the bullet and fix it RIGHT! I pulled out about half of the transom wood with my fingers that's how rotten it is.





































I coulda got about 10 more years outta that transom whatcha think....lol


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## CoastalOutfitters (Aug 20, 2004)

you have a mess , my man

best wishes


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## Mrtoler (Dec 2, 2010)

Haha ya I think so to....gotta make it work though!!


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## longboat (Apr 14, 2008)

It's no wonder that boat was so heavy at the transom!

Clean all of that would out of there, then clean up the aluminum. The metal part of the transom may still be serviceable with some good wood backing it up.

I built an 8' jon boat in high school shop back in the early 80's. I built it out of marine plywood (with epoxy glue and galvanized screws) and coated it with marine paint and several coats of spar varnish. It sat around for years and got occasional use and then forgotten about - until my brother decided to use it for a watering trough on the farm. Last I heard, he is still using it. All that to say that if you seal the wood good, it will last a long time (granted, this was in freshwater, but sealed wood is still sealed wood and should be just as resistant to saltwater).

Then you could put some extra aluminum backing plates around the motor mount holes.


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## gregr1971 (Oct 28, 2005)

Clean all that mess out of that transom and go back with some rectangular aluminum tubing. 
I would pull the foam out of the rear boxes and check for corrosion.... i speak from experience on this! (had the same boat, and the same issues)


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## Mrtoler (Dec 2, 2010)

Thanks for the replys, I had planned on rebuilding the transom all aluminum but I haven't got any prices on the square tubeing yet. I've pulled all the foam from the rear boxes and yes there was corrosion on both sides and it's pretty severe in a couple spots....but I have to fix it, I'm planning on making some backing plates out of aluminum plate and welding them on the inside then filling up the holes on the outside with the alumaweld low heat rods then bringing them flush. Hopefully this should work, after all this is done I'm going to coat the ahold bottom and a lil bit of the sides in steelflex. It's suppose to help seal any pinholes or leaky rivets you have! It's also suppose to protect your hull and make it really slick!


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## Mrtoler (Dec 2, 2010)

I recently got back in touch with the guy that does all of my welding, Hes been working alot so I dident want to take up his lil bit of free time with my boat..but since he got a new position at work he's got more free time and is going to help me on my boat. After talking to him we decided it would be best to remove the rear storage boxes and build new ones that don't block the drainage channels, and to reveal all the aluminum that was exposed to the foam to check for corrosion...I've got the boxes removed and I'm working on cleaning the aluminum so it can be welded to. I've got to go buy some 1/4" plate and some square tubeing, to build the transom. It will be way stronger than it was, that's for sure


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## SlowRollin' (Oct 25, 2010)

Looks like you're knee deep, and doing well. I have a 1650MV Monark and did the same as you. I applied the gray steelflex to the bottoms and side up to the water line. It's not something that is easy to apply by yourself. Small batches and use two people, dries very quick. Good luck and keep the pics coming. PM if there is anything I can do for you.

T.


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## Mrtoler (Dec 2, 2010)

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind when I get that far.
Ryan


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## uncle dave (Jul 27, 2008)

Don't know if anyone has mentioned this, but you need to brace the floor, the factory ribs are not heavy enough to keep the boat from twisting.


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## longboat (Apr 14, 2008)

I dunno - I kinda liked the flex -- didn't see any reason to get rid of it...


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## Mrtoler (Dec 2, 2010)

I was planning on braceing the rear up pretty good, but i wasn't planning on adding anything else upfront other than a a lil bit for the center console!


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## uncle dave (Jul 27, 2008)

longboat said:


> I dunno - I kinda liked the flex -- didn't see any reason to get rid of it...


 You don't have to get rid of it, but in time it will break every rib in the boat, I speak from experience.


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## Mrtoler (Dec 2, 2010)

Finally a update,I bought all my aluminum. The other day to redo my transom and to frame my new rear deck, raised floor and console stand. My welder got it all done today, he ended up cutting the entire transom off and cut a new one out of 1/4" plate and welded it on. I dident get the detailed pic I would have liked to because I was busy helping him, but I did get these..










New plate and start of bracing










Done and doing a leak test


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## lowensome1866 (Sep 13, 2010)

Looking good!


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## CoastalOutfitters (Aug 20, 2004)

looking good, you folks have been busy


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## Mrtoler (Dec 2, 2010)

Its official I've got a leak free boat. My father in law is suppose to be coming over this weekend to paint her so I should have some progress pics soon I can't wait! I did get some pics of the boat today doing a final float test before it gets some color, I got my grandpaw to sit in the boat but it's still EXTREMLY light, it was only drafting about 2"s


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## Mrtoler (Dec 2, 2010)

Ok paint has been delayed until today due to my father in law having to work and being sick. We did however get it primed and painted a light coat yesterday and today he came over and put several more coats of white. The plan is for him to come over tomorrow and add the red on the sides then clear the whole boat..weather permitting since there is a small chance for rain tomorrow evening.... Pics from today




























The sides are getting the same red that's on the pontoon with the exception of a clear over it so it should shine a lot more!


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## troutsupport (May 22, 2006)

Nice work. ...and it's certainly a lot of work.. but you'll be proud of a job well done in the end.


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## Mrtoler (Dec 2, 2010)

Thanks, I appreciate it!


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## goodwood (Mar 30, 2009)

good job on the work so far.


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## Mrtoler (Dec 2, 2010)

Pics pics pics, I've finally got a real update!!! Finally..lol... I got the red sprayed today and I couldn't be happier with the look. The paint is not 100% done we have some touch ups to fix and still need to clear the whole thing so that should give it a really nice shine... We just keep running outta time.. Hopefully well finish up this week and I can get it back on the trailer.

All taped off and masked ready for red!










First bit of red on the console
































































I think it's looking pretty good, the gunnels or rub rails across the top are going to get coated in the no slip coating that will also be inside. It will be white with hopefully red webbing (splattered paint) on top of it!


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## stiles (Dec 12, 2012)

Sweet!


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## bubbas kenner (Sep 4, 2010)

Very nice boat build story thanks for showing im glad I clicked on here it is very insperational.


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## Mrtoler (Dec 2, 2010)

I finally got the boats paint 100% finished and got the boat back on the trailer. I also cleaned up the engine and painted it and got it hung back on the boat today. Tomorrow I'll get all my wires and cables ran through a pipe and in place, then I'll go get my closed cell foam and install that!


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## cva34 (Dec 22, 2008)

*1860 redo*

Comeing around ,really looks nice...thanks for sharing all those pic..waiting to see final outcome...cva34


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## Logan (Aug 7, 2009)

have you considered adding sponsons in the back?

awesome project and you guys have done a ton of work. great job!


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## Little-bit (Oct 19, 2005)

Looks great..! Lots of work.


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## Mrtoler (Dec 2, 2010)

Thanks, ya I did consider the sponsons but decided to just wait and see how the boat sits without them. Plus my welder friend did all the welding work for just his price in parts and it was very cheap, I didn't want him to think I was taking advantage of him...im going to sell this boat when it's finished to start phase 2 of my pontoon boat build!


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## redoholic93 (Apr 29, 2013)

I am looking at doing something similar to an 18 ft extra wide extra deep MonArk that i am going to purchase from my friend. But instead of doing a T top i was thinking about filling the entire floor with foam blocks and covering it with either plywood or aluminium (obviously supporting it in some way), leaving about a 6 inch lip all the way around, covering that with carpet, i want to take the side console out and build a center console for it out of aluminium with a cooler with a pad for a seat in front of the console and maybe another behind it. and painting the boat, motor, and console a battleship gray color, does anybody have any suggestions and Mrtoler do you have any experiences that made anything easier for you?


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## Mrtoler (Dec 2, 2010)

I've been talking about finishing this thing for awhile now and I'm finally back at it.... I finished the floor today and got it all sealed, I also built the livewell/captain seat....here's the proof























































Here's my help










Ive decided to go with carpet over the non skid coating due to the price and because of how much eaiser and faster it is, so i still need to wrap the floor pieces in carpet, the floor is in several pieces so if you needed to access under the deck you can just remove one section...I need to do the float test to see how it's going to set in the water, so I can see where the 30gal gas tank needs to be placed..
Then its pretty much just wiring everything up and all the small stuff! It might get finished next weekend, I can only work on it on the weekend because I'm in the police academy in the evenings and I work during the day so I have a pretty busy schedule!


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## Smackdaddy53 (Nov 4, 2011)

Looking good! I have been following the build on the other forum.


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## Mrtoler (Dec 2, 2010)

Thanks smack!


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## Mrtoler (Dec 2, 2010)

I floated my boat again yesterday to see how it was going to set with the floor in and engine mounted... Considering I had the batteries small trolling motor and empty gas tank all back there it sat quite well... I had my wife and son join me and it handled the total load very well also.. So now I can start mounting stuff without worrying about the weight distribution so much.


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## Mrtoler (Dec 2, 2010)

Got some of the floor pieces wrapped in carpet the other day... It looked better than I thought it would... Looking forward to getting the rest finished.


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