# Shimano Roller Clutch Bearing Rebuild



## ClearLakeClayt

Buddy lost his rod and reel in the Galveston surf this week, miraculously recovered 30 minutes later by foot dragging and catching the line. You can imagine the condition of his Curado CU-200 after that...

I'm doing the cleaning and have the first opportunity to try a Roller Clutch Bearing rebuild (BNT1207, now BNT2925 with the new plastic race). It is easy and saves $15.30 if the rollers haven't corroded.

Step 1 - a good acetone soak and flush. As expected, mucho sand in the cup afterwards.

Step 2 - push plastic race out of SS housing. Use a screwdriver and carefully push on the bottom of one of the roller bearing races from the top. Do it over a towel to catch the six rollers.

Step 3 - clean, taking care not to break any of the tiny plastic prongs on the race. I used a soft bristle toothbrush.

Step 4 - reassemble. Six tabs on plastic race line up with the six knobs on the SS housing. Insert partway, then install six rollers, then push whole thing back together.

Step 5 - oil rollers, using BNT1206 Inner Tube to roll the oil around. Lightly grease outside of Roller Clutch Bearing before reinserting in side plate. Makes it easier to install and easier to get back out next time...


----------



## Dipsay

Nice Job Sir! Keep it up!


----------



## Drundel

Sorta reminds me of all the clutch weights on my Stradic when I dunked it last fall. I need to tear it apart again and use better grease, I'm not happy with how smooth it is, I think I can do better.


----------



## TopWaterPlugger

Make that blue collar "snaps" in place. There should be a definite pop when it snaps in place. Another thing, I have used grease before but learned later that it can actually cause to bearing to fail... you won't have "anti reverse" (the rollers get stuck inside those little sockets they ride in and won't contact the drag collar).... I suggest you refrain from using grease.


----------



## basspro99

can this be done to the newer style clutch bearings in a 200E7. I have one that a buddy dropped of and it was pretty gummed up. i soaked it and got it to move better but thee is still some dirt in there i imagine. Are these bearing safe to run through a US machine as well?


----------



## Bantam1

The amount of time you put into doing this you will be better off buying a new bearing and replacing it.


----------



## ClearLakeClayt

Well, Joe, even though I am looking at time from the opposite end of the spectrum than you (







), I have to agree with you. I enjoy these types of disassemble/clean/reassemble jobs and have the time to do it. However, looking at the BNT-3910 bearing, I see that it has what looks like 12 rollers. Getting the rollers back into the race on the older roller clutch bearings is the most challenging part of the job, and they only have 6 rollers. I don't think I'd want to wrestle 12 of them back in there. Sort of like playing Whack-A-Mole...


----------



## Drundel

basspro99 said:


> can this be done to the newer style clutch bearings in a 200E7. I have one that a buddy dropped of and it was pretty gummed up. i soaked it and got it to move better but thee is still some dirt in there i imagine. Are these bearing safe to run through a US machine as well?


The US part is safe, it just depends on what chemicals you are going to put in there. I have some gun cleaner that is safe on plastics, aluminum, etc. I used on a buddies 200E7 and while it did clean it some, its not great. I don't know if the newer ones come apart like the older ones. But if so, I bet they would clean up just fine in a tumbler.


----------



## ClearLakeClayt

Judging from the part photo online, it looks like they are the same construction, D, so should come apart the same way. Like I said though, you'll have a buttload of rollers to deal with...

But hey, if you're already faced with buying a new one, try taking it apart first. Might get lucky! If you do, basspro99, let us know how it goes.

If you buy a new one and don't want to mess with the old one, send it to me and I'll have a go at cleaning it. No charge.


----------



## Drundel

They aren't the same as the ones from the Cu200B. The are uniform so I'm guessing they can make one part that can be used in left and right reels. I haven't pressed hard enough on the plastic to see if it comes out of the metal sleeve.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-Rol...486?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d42cf06d6


----------



## ClearLakeClayt

Drundel said:


> They are uniform so I'm guessing they can make one part that can be used in left and right reels.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-Rol...486?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d42cf06d6


Interesting observation, I guess I don't really understand how these bearings work. I would have guessed that the left and right were different - with the little delicate plastic fingers on the race on the other side of the rollers. Seems like a left and right hand reel would require opposite bearings...


----------



## Drundel

ClearLakeClayt said:


> Interesting observation, I guess I don't really understand how these bearings work. I would have guessed that the left and right were different - with the little delicate plastic fingers on the race on the other side of the rollers. Seems like a left and right hand reel would require opposite bearings...


I just checked to make sure, for the 200E7 and 201E7 both use PN 3910. The left and right ones do require opposites, so you just flip them around and put them in the other direction and its now opposite. The lip you can see in your picture isn't on this model. Maybe someone at home can take a better picture of it and post up.

They are just one way roller bearings and the fingers are what hold them and prevent them from spinning the wrong way; which is why everyone on here says to not to put on too much oil or grease otherwise they would slip.

This video sorta explains it, but the fishing ones are MUCH simpler and the plastic part is the spring.


----------



## basspro99

Drundel said:


> The US part is safe, it just depends on what chemicals you are going to put in there. I have some gun cleaner that is safe on plastics, aluminum, etc. I used on a buddies 200E7 and while it did clean it some, its not great. I don't know if the newer ones come apart like the older ones. But if so, I bet they would clean up just fine in a tumbler.


Thanks for the help. I will probably go ahead and order another one to replace it. I think i will try to take the old one apart and see how it goes to waste some time....Bo


----------



## basspro99

ClearLakeClayt said:


> Judging from the part photo online, it looks like they are the same construction, D, so should come apart the same way. Like I said though, you'll have a buttload of rollers to deal with...
> 
> But hey, if you're already faced with buying a new one, try taking it apart first. Might get lucky! If you do, basspro99, let us know how it goes.
> 
> If you buy a new one and don't want to mess with the old one, send it to me and I'll have a go at cleaning it. No charge.


Thanks for the info. I am going to have a go at it. If all fails i will send it too you in pieces.


----------



## colbyntx

I took the RCB out of my 16 year old CH100SF yesterday and took it apart and cleaned it all up. It had never been done and was slipping a little bit from time to time. Put it back together and now is working good as new! I don't know a lot about repairing reels but am a mechanical person. I am learning so much from this section. Thanks for the post!


----------

