# What type of mono for leaders?



## Rippin_drag (Sep 2, 2008)

What are some other good, stiff monos for making tapered leaders besides the Mason Hard mono? I can't find that stuff anywhere!








I heard one of the Berkley lines is good and stiff but can't remember the name of it.


----------



## Ish (Oct 30, 2008)

i use ande for everything but tarpon leaders, then it's hard mason.

here you go

if i call up there to order some and they're out cuz you bought all of it, i'm gonna sine yo pitty on the runny kine.


----------



## Gigabite285 (Oct 16, 2006)

I use Rio Saltwater Hard Mono. It's basically the same as hard mason.


----------



## dsim3240 (Nov 12, 2008)

I find that the trilene xt is stiff enough for most of my leaders. It's available a Wal-mart.


----------



## Rippin_drag (Sep 2, 2008)

No worries, Ish. They don't have 40 and 30lb which is what i want. Was going to make leaders that are 40-30-20 in 4-3-2 feet sections, then the 15-16lb tippet.


----------



## Not For Hire (Jun 30, 2009)

I use Ande. Why use the 30. Just go from 40(5') to 20(2.5') then tippet. The 40 is not going to cut into the 20 that is why you taper anyway. My opinion.


----------



## Stuart (May 21, 2004)

I don't think there is one single answer to this. I've seen people use just straight #12 hard mason. Another guy on here uses 6 feet of 30# trilene XT and then 3 feet of 12# flouro. I'd do some experimenting. With a loop connection, leaders are easy to change out.


----------



## Ish (Oct 30, 2008)

****** Loco said:


> No worries, Ish. They don't have 40 and 30lb which is what i want. Was going to make leaders that are 40-30-20 in 4-3-2 feet sections, then the 15-16lb tippet.


have you ever used 40 lb. hard mason?

been there, tried that...it's a very large diameter (larger than normal 40 lb. mono) and it can be difficult to get good compact knots with it. not sure why you'd want to go that route when regular 40 lb. works great.

what say you?

you can get 40 lb. here


----------



## Ish (Oct 30, 2008)

Not For Hire said:


> I use Ande. Why use the 30. Just go from 40(5') to 20(2.5') then tippet. The 40 is not going to cut into the 20 that is why you taper anyway. My opinion.


i do something similar.

i go with long 40 butt section into 30, into 12 or 15 fluoro. turns over anything and never knots up. i have no use for a tippet lighter than 12-15, but that's just me.


----------



## Rippin_drag (Sep 2, 2008)

Ish said:


> have you ever used 40 lb. hard mason?
> 
> been there, tried that...it's a very large diameter (larger than normal 40 lb. mono) and it can be difficult to get good compact knots with it. not sure why you'd want to go that route when regular 40 lb. works great.
> 
> ...


What kind do you use then, Ish?


----------



## THE JAMMER (Aug 1, 2005)

Generally speaking I think fishermen really overkill on the breaking strength of their leaders/ tippets, etc. Most of the time for offshore, people use 30# backing, and for everything else they use 20#. 

I once did a test on several of my fly reels: abel super 8, 10, 12, 14 and Tibor Everglades. I have a very accurate drag tester, and the most drag I could get on any of those reels was about 16#, and that was on the Abel super 8 buttoned all the way down.. There was no rhyme or reason to the max drag vs. the size of the reel.

I called Abel and asked them how much drag I should expect out of their various reels, and was greeted with silence, and then "what do you mean?" I said how much drag should I be able to expect from say a Super 10. His answer was "I don't know, we've never measured that. I then thought that since the maximum IGFA tippet is 20#, and that recommended drag settings are no more than 1/3 or max 1/2 the breaking strength of your line, and with 20-30# backing, one would never need more than 10-15# of drag. And that's a lot of drag, especially on a fly rod. Thererfore that was information a reel manufacturer would not use. I use 25# plus of drag on conventional gear on a yellowfin, but that's totally harnessed up and clipped into the rod. 25# will pull you overboard if you're not careful.

As I said in another post, one of the most important things is to make sure that your backing is not the weak point in your system, unless you relish losing $70 fly lines. And I know this applies mostly to offshore, but that's mostly what I do. If you're using 30# backing, you need to have a piece of 20# something in your leader system. I know breaking strength is not always why you want heavier leader- sometimes it's to prevent breakoffs/bite offs. That's why I use about a 15" tippet of American Fishing Wire 7x7 pre tied to all my flies. Homer rhode to the fly, and perfection loop in the other end.

I know a lot of this really doesn't apply for inshore fishing. It's rare that we get broken off inshore. You all know my friend Chris Phillips, and he has used that 20# hard mason for decades, and Chris is one of the best if not THE BEST. He uses this offshore as well, and I watched him catch a 35# kingfish one day on my boat with that 20# mason, on a 6 wgt believe it or not.

THE JAMMER


----------

