# LL boat opinions wanted



## Danny O

The Pure Bay is a financial stretch for me, and the trees/stumps don't discriminate. With that in mind, I'm thinking that this Alweld Escort boat might do well on Livingston (underwater hazards and large waves). The pics are a 23 footer, but I'd probably want the 21 footer and add a t-top and other accessories. It lacks storage, asthetics, and other features. Another concern is the aluminum gauge. These Alwelds are 0.100 thick, but other boats of this size are 0.125 or 0.190.

http://www.alweld.com/escort_bay_boat.html
Beam 102"
Max HP 200
boat weight 1,500 lbs

Just curious about your opinion on a larger CC aluminum v-hull on Livingston.


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## kgobble

Looks like a fine vessel. I started fishing livingston in an Xpress and later went to a Champion. Do not think that an aluminum boat will do you any more favors than fiberglass. I put a dent in mine and it was never the same, even after repairing. Also, the ride in aluminum is brutal in waves. The majority of damage on boats is to lower units on the outboard, so bring that into play. 

If I was to buy a boat for main body fishing on LL, I would buy more of a walley type boat, or a boat shaped like the one you listed above. Either way it would have high sides compared to my bass boat.

No matter what you decide, congrats on the new boat.

KG


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## live2fish247

I would imagine that Alweld would hold up fine. If your set on a Pure Bay type boat there are cheaper brands that offer a lot of the same amenities as the PB. If your worried about the hull getting ding up by used and repower. I run an old 2000 model BayStealth for this very reason. The sound of oysters digging in a new Pure Bay or any other new boat for that matter would probably cause me to stroke out.lol Anyway if you like the Alweld I say get it and I dont think youd be disappointed. If you dont mind me asking whats wrong with the skiff youre running now? You dont seem to have any trouble getting slime in it.lol

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## johnmyjohn

If you can store the extra 2 foot get it. When I bought my SeaArk I was looking at an 18'. I went on and got the 20' for $200 more. These boats don't wiegh nothing compared to glass, probably half as much. Boats aren't as big as you think when you get them in the water. Yes, metal thickness makes a difference, mine is .125. Get the thickest you can, I don't care much for .100 for anything over 16foot. It gives the boat support in twisting and flex not to mention running over something. I use mine in saltwater for the most part and it is bumpy (it's almost a flatbottom 3 degree pitch on bottom) but very stable and a work horse for fishing.


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## Meadowlark

Take a ride in it first, on a rough day.


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## Danny O

Thanks for the feedback.



live2fish247 said:


> ...If you dont mind me asking whats wrong with the skiff youre running now? You dont seem to have any trouble getting slime in it.lol


The skiff has a lot of advantages, espectially shallow water and plenty of elbow room. However, we are thinking about upgrading (1-2 feet longer, 150 HP, and a V-hull).


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## FISHROADIE

Thats a nice boat if you got a jetfoot for it you would never have to worry about a stump taking out your lowere unit. They make them for up to 225hp, the disadvantage is they do not do good in rough water.


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## shadslinger

Are you thinking about shrimping? It looks like a shrimp boat. 
Metal beats the heck out of you in rough water, but then I am sensitive to pounding because of back & spine problems.
Get as long a boat as you can, with some kind of vee to the bottom, have you looked at the Frontier bay boats?


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## Sunbeam

All of the guides and regular fishermen in the north west, ie: Columbia river type areas, all run aluminum. It is cheaper to fix. You could not give them a fiberglass boats because they know that sooner or later they will hit some thing hard.

If I were going to a new boat I would look very long and hard at the Lund boat line. They are made for the big northern lakes. Tough.
http://www.lundboats.com/


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## rubberducky

I have to say the boat I have a McKee craft is a very smooth ride in rough water. I know it's an older boat but I am sold on this kind of boat. 
The big sweeping bow on my boat has made me feel very confident running 20mils out in 3ft swells. I have to agree with what most people have said I wouldn't go with aluminum unless your back is better then mine lol
That's my .2 
James 


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## rubberducky

Here is a pic of the bow of my boat. Man do I love that boat lol
James


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## whackmaster

rubberducky said:


> Here is a pic of the bow of my boat. Man do I love that boat lol
> James
> 
> Nice looking boat. Your daughter looks like she likes it to....


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## Gofish2day

Danny, Too thin. I ran alum boats all my life back in Louisiana and you want something you can weld when buying alum. Also, unless you have the weight of a fiberglass boat you will have a very rough ride. Someone on 2Cool talked me into buying my 19ft kenner bay boat. Best decision I every made for Texas lakes which get rough. Back home I would not buy a fiberglass hull if you made me.
I don't care the shape or the V - It will pound. Great for Louisiana marsh but bad for Texas rough lakes. Talk to Loy about my boat and how it rides. Outstanding!
Now - Tow it on the hwy and not so good. Alum will be the best tow boat behind a truck. I don't think you tow. Tbone has fished with me in 3ft seas in galveston. Ask him.


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## Whitebassfisher

Danny, I hesitate to influence anyone in a decision this expensive, but.... I think the lightness of the boat would beat you to heck on Livingston. I like the shape of the boat you showed though. I think a deep v fiberglass with deep sides or plenty of freeboard would be the ticket.


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## live2fish247

rubberducky said:


> Here is a pic of the bow of my boat. Man do I love that boat lol
> James
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk because Reeltime told me to


Man its hard to beat a tri-hull running in rough water. Danny O, that old BayStealth I run is a 22 footer and it does great in rough water. I've had it in solid 4s (accidentaly lol) and it did well. Took a few over the bow due to having an untimely fuel issue that just happened to pop up right then but it handled em well. I have been knocking around the idea of getting a 20' alluminum but after seeing everybodys thoughts I think I'll stick with what I got.

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## markbrumbaugh

Best riding cc I've had is like the sea hunt triton series. But on mine the transom is way too low in a following sea. Get heavy, v hull with flare, and tall transom.
A skiff is better in shallow IMHO. A decent non shallow bay boat for our lake is what I favor.


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## Lonestar Proud

I have to agree with most everyone else Danny, aluminum is gonna beat you up and .100 is too thin. You can find some very good used fiberglass cc's if you're patient that are well worth the money.

-LP


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## Danny O

Thanks for the comments. It's 1500 lbs, which is the same as my skiff and a Pure Bay; therefore I don't think it will bounce around too much. 

The gauge is just too thin, and as Karl mentioned, may not be easily weldable. That defeats the whole purpose. 

Price is becoming a factor, especially since Pet Spoon just got a new truck. Honestly, I think she would spend more time in the boat than her truck. Nonetheless, I'd like to do a little more research on the Nautic Stars (19 or 21 foot) and the Blue Wave 1902 Evolution. We may have to wait a little while. Thanks again

P.S. We just got back from the Coldspring game. They are 8-0 and just beat Cleveland 61-0 tonight. The previous 2 weeks, they beat Splendora 67-0 and Shepherd 59-0.


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## Fishon21

*Welded boats and stumps*

Danny

This is only an opinon , i run a 18.60 alumacraft , i fish fresh and saltwater
a lot my boat is a semi V bottom tunnel which takes rough water better then a flat bottom with a V hull , now longer is always better because it's 
more heavy , the only thing that i worry about is running over stumps at lower speeds were all the weight is in that one spot , i have not had any problems yet but if you break a weld loose and have it rewelded it will never be the same .

Glad to help
Terry:texasflag


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## Git$um

I would buy a 1990 Partikraft 20 foot pontoon boat. Oh wait, I did that already. Pontoons are sweet for fishing. Not too fast, but they take waves and are very stable. They also cost 1/2 the price of a fiberglass CC. Something to think about. Good luck with whatever you get !!!


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## fishinganimal

I would test drive drive it in some slop for sure. If you get that one with a 150 the price tag will be up there. I would definately stay at 21 or bigger.


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## johnmyjohn

There is a lot of input to consider here. The best advice is to ride in one first. A lot a people are talking about their experiences in a standard jon boat, 18' and under. The reason I'm saying this is because the bigger metal boats are no where near as bad as the small ones. Another reason most people don't know about the bigger boats is because they cost as much as a fiberglass the same size and most I know won't pay that much for metal, not as attractive. I've been in metal boats up to 26' in Alaska not to mention the 40' aluminum crew boats Capt. Elliot Party boats use to have and they are bumpier but more durable than glass. I've had both, I know they've made big strives in glass but most have ten years before it would start checking or cracking in week points. That's because the resin never stops curing, it keeps getting harder. There's a reason why dredging companies, pier companies and bridge companies all use aluminum boats and if you're going to fish hard and treat your boat the same way get metal. If you're going to ride around more than fish get glass. Most of this is just personal info. I just want to help someone make a good choice in boats.


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## Meadowlark

johnmyjohn said:


> ...I've had both, I know they've made big strives in glass but most have ten years before it would start checking or cracking in week points. That's because the resin never stops curing, it keeps getting harder. There's a reason why dredging companies, pier companies and bridge companies all use aluminum boats and if you're going to fish hard and treat your boat the same way get metal. If you're going to ride around more than fish get glass. ....


JJ,

That hasn't been my experience with glass....but maybe I'm just lucky.

IMO, it depends on how well the glass boat is constructed and how well it is maintained. I'm the original owner of an original Mako 15...circa about 1972...still am using it. In fact, was on the main lake chasing stripers 3 times last week in it. No cracks, no problems, nothing but fishing, and the safest boat I know. Its been 15 miles offshore, most of its life spent in salt water, and been through many rough days on Liv...I'd go anywhere in it. Its outlasted three engines.

One of the key things about keeping a glass boat going for years is to always store it protected from the sun....and also hit it with good marine wax once a year. If its well made to start with, there is no limit to how long it will last.


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## johnmyjohn

I have a friend who just sold his mako and it looked like you described yours. He garaged his and took very good care of it. It was 20 years old and it out lasted two motors also. The other day I saw an old Boston Whaler at the ramp that had to be 30 years old because I remember fishing in one just like it. It looked like new, it is not the norm. I don't know if it's changed but most boat companies stop the warranty on the hulls at 10 years because they expect hairline cracks to show up. Most people don't store them in a garage or ever wax them let alone wash it by hand. Look around and old boats are a lot like old cars, they are there but not many. I bought a Welcraft that was 15 years old that was in very good condition. I used it for bay and offshore fishing. I stored it outside and it started cracking and fading within a years time. Metal boats are not bullet proof either if over stressed welds will crack and they get dinged. But as they age the aluminum they are made of does not get harder, maybe oxidize some. Can you imagine how long the life span of jon boats would be if they were welded together instead of riveted from the start? I wouldn't want for someone to put aside the idea of a metal boat because it's not as popular as it is up north, fiberglass rules down here in the south. I am by no means an expert on boats I just have been around them a while like a lot of you here. You are doing right by your boat and I hope it last you another 10 years because like and old classic car they look good.


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## nikki

You don't see millions riding 35,000ft above the earth in turbulent winds and dropping down on run ways at 200 mph in fiberglass planes. Nor are they welded. I've owned 17 boats of all types and in my final days will stay with the alum, fishin 100+ days a year and this one going 11 yr old semi v, doesn't make that flapping sound and not bad in 2+' waves. BUT it's your decision


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## uncle dave

I fished a welded 18 ft aluminum boat with tunnel and pads for several years in salt and fresh water. Broke several ribs in the boat and it was rough riding and wet, my vote goes for fiberglass.


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## Gofish2day

*Kenner bay boat*

Danny,

Attached is a pic of my kenner at LL Dam with my old truck. Great boat. Funny thing is back in Louisiana you could not pay me to have a fiberglass boat.

I hope pic is not too big.


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## Gofish2day

*Kenner*

One more pic


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## Mattsfishin

I have had aluminum and fiberglass boats also. I now have the 18 ft rolled gunnel fiberglass Kenner like Karls. It has took a beating and still goes on. I would suggest you look at the larger fiberglass liner boats. They are heavier and give a smooth ride when it gets rough on Livingston. I chose the 18 ft rolled gunnel because it is lite weight and I could go in the small creeks chasin whites and it has been over and thru log jams. For the open water the liner boats give a really good ride. Boomhauer has a 19 ft Kenner liner boat and it gives one heck of a ride and he has had it offshore. Just my 2 cents on this.

Matt


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## Whitebassfisher

I would love to have a 20' or 21' version of the 18 footer shown below.


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## RAYSOR

Danny, I have the Frontier 21, and have been very happy. I truly would veer away from any metal boat, as Loy mentioned ride but also noise slapping water against a metal hull. We are in the Cape now but my Frontier is in the old boat slip, we are going to move her as soon as the water comes up.


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## fishinganimal

Personally I would keep the skiff. You and spoon are sharp with weather and know when to go and stay home. Lots of center consoles out there shop around and test drive a few. One thing I would be sure to get is a console that is glassed in not screwed down. Keep this in mind.


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## BayouBonsaiMan

I have owned the esort for 5 years. The boat is really a double hull with ribs 10"O.C. Never felt any flexing at all. I have been 25 miles offshore and felt plenty safe. You have to go slow but when you crest a 3 ft swell you have a bow that will come up for the next. Transom is very bouyant with wide beam and pontoons. Gas milage is way better than a equal size fiberglass hull equals more trips farther. When I hit a sandbar like I did yesterday in slp area I had to ask 2 of 3 passengers out to help push , no worries about scratched gel coat.
You can fish 4 big people in that boat, take them across lake sightseeing and bring them back without getting them wet and only burning a few gallons. I don,t think you can do that with some of other boats mentioned. IMO Minuses is not good for trolling shore for bass, catches too much wind.


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