# My 1978 Mako Fuel Tank Replacement



## fishinguy (Aug 5, 2004)

My 1978 20' Mako Fuel Tank Replacement Project. This project has been taking some time as I took a complete break from it for over a year. Now I am back to finish this project.

Well I started smelling gas in the bilge and have just got through draining the tank. I am about to start the removal process.

Also I stripped the steering and I am not sure what I am going to need to fix that. The motor wouldn't turn and I turned the wheel a little too hard
I have disconnected all of my electrical under the console and have not tried to remove the steering control yet but will be doing that later this week.

I am going to do a complete rewire while I am doing this as well. I like the way a lot the rewiring looks on this site.

Console finally off.









Mess of Wires









Steering cable destroyed









Preped to stay out side without any further damage. I baged and tapes all wires, opening and seals.









I didn't notice any broken teeth on the steering rack but it mangled the cable.

I took a peek in the inspection hatch it was too dark for photos but there was alot of black sludge. It didn't smell like gass but it looked like oil.

  I raised the coffin lid.


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## fishinguy (Aug 5, 2004)

There was a crack in the bottom of the coffin and quite a bit of gas. I had 2 nice size holes in the tank so it will be a new tank for sure. I am really dreding having to do glass work in the coffin Here are the pics.


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## fishinguy (Aug 5, 2004)

Well I finally have most of the fill and vent lines removed. These were harder to get out than the gas tank. They are the original aluminum lines and there was quite a pit of pitting. I tapped on the line after I got it out and it make a hole in it. I guess it was a good decision to get them out. I have the new tank ready to drop in thanks to Southern Sportsman Marine, they have a great shop and provide excellent work and service. Thanks Mudskipper for the recommendation.

Still have to do the top side of the fill line but that shouldn't be too hard. I'll get that finished up tomorrow. This was my first time cutting fiber glass. One I never knew how tough this stuff was and second I am itching.

Here are the pics of how I did it.



















With this hole the bend in the pipe was right there so all I had to do was cut it with a 12" reciprocating saw blade. Then I twisted the bottom lines with a pipe wrench to break them loose of the foam. Then I pulled them straight out. The sound of those pipes breaking free of the foam and sliding out was a sound of victory. I pulled out the whole vent line. I am not sure how to re attach that one but I will do some searching. I didn't have much time to think about putting it back together.

Here is the coffin, this will be my first glassing project.



















If you look close you can see where the whole back left corner is missing from the coffin. I am going to try and fix it in place.


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## fishinguy (Aug 5, 2004)

Oh yeah and a tip on busting through the foam. I am using a 1/2" paddle pit on my drill with an extension and it is really helping me tear through all the foam.


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## boat (Mar 7, 2005)

fishinguy, if you run into anything you do not know how to fix go to the web site 
www.classicmako.com . Many guys on the site have replaced their tanks and have step by step advice and pictures. These guys know what they are doing. They have helped me many times with projects on my 1982 Mako 224. You are now one of us, the Classic Mako Nation. Good luck and keep the pictures coming. I want to follow your progress.


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## fishinguy (Aug 5, 2004)

I am a member over there also. I do not know if I could tackle this project without all of the help I get from there.

Here it is. The fill line sure was a pia I ended up cutting around almost every bend. I think tomorrow I am going to have to wash the boat. I can not stand the way it is looking right now. So tomorrow i will give it a good cleaning and go and pick up some glass supplies and the new fill and vent line.hope fully I am reconstructing the boat next week. Still debating on painting. I think I will get it back to running condition before I decide.


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## fishinguy (Aug 5, 2004)

Well I put the first soap on the boat that it has seen in the last 2 years. Still need to scrub it down one more time before it is acceptable clean. I have a lot of little cracks that are driving me nuts. Any tips on removing stress cracks and minor dings around the boat? It defiantly looks better now than it has in a long time. I am either going to order some glass supplies tonight or go and pick some up tomorrow.

What all do you think I will need in glass supplies to repair my coffin and to re core the coffin lid? 1808 and vinyl ester. is there anything else that I need?


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## Autco (Jul 2, 2008)

Thanks for posting...I have a 17ft 1977 Mako and I have a leaking gas tank to! So now I have a great idea of what I am going to have to do.


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## kdumas (Aug 19, 2005)

You might want to read this 
http://www.yachtsurvey.com/fueltank.htm


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## fishinguy (Aug 5, 2004)

Well I got it sanded down and ready to glass. I think I really needed a grinder for this job. I used a belt sander with 50 grit and it was tough. Hopefully I can glass tomorrow. It is about to be raining here.


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## fishinguy (Aug 5, 2004)

well after mixing up a little batch of resin and trying some practice at glassing I realize this is kind of hard. Is there something I can add to thicken the resin? I tried wrapping some mat around a wood plank and where it folded over the edge it kept coming up. I m not sure how to make it lay down. next i am going to wrap a 2x4. How much hardener should I be mixing with the resin. I put 4 cc's to 7 oz of resin. I m waiting for it to dry to see my final product. Is there a good step by step tutorial that will walk me through basic fiberglass work?

VICTORY!!! The fill line is in. 10' was defiantly more than I needed though 7 or 8 foot would have been fine. I used a 2" pvc pipe and cut it like a spear and hammered it in with a 2x4 the hole in the foam for the fill line to slide in. This was a tough battle I had to declare all out war on the foam. Pics to come. 
 
Looking at deck after the battle









Fill passing through hole in step









Fill Line through the top









Tools Used









Foam that came out of pvc pipe









vent line ready next









Better pics of coffin where repair is needed









Boat closed up till next time







 Edited by - 1979mako20 on 09/12/2009 20:23:34


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## CoastalOutfitters (Aug 20, 2004)

you are useing the corrrect hardener for that resin in the correct proportions ?


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## Autco (Jul 2, 2008)

Keep updating!!!


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## fishinguy (Aug 5, 2004)

I got the vent line pushed through today. No pics cause it really doesn't look that much different. I pushed the hose down through the hole I cut it was easier than trying to push it through where the tanks sits. not I just have to do my fiber glassing tomorrow and I should be able to foam the tank in this week. It will be nice to have the tanks install complete. I also still have to install the ground wire. I should have ran that when I did the hose but I forgot, I'll be buying the wire today and will put that in tomorrow after laying up the glass repair.


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## fishinguy (Aug 5, 2004)

Alright I have layed my first glass in the boat. It may not be the cleanest job but it is in there. I used the broken piece and layed it between two layers of 1808. I think this will work well enough.


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## Autco (Jul 2, 2008)

Any recent updated pictures? Thanks!


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## fishinguy (Aug 5, 2004)

I just foamed the tank in with 2 part poly foam. I didn't have the camera with me and I moved the boat to a storage too that is closer to my house. I am finishing some classes that I am taking so it is draining my time. I am hoping to have everything ready to start installing the console by the end of the month. I only need to seal down the coffin lid and attach the fill and vent line in the gunnel to the fill neck and vent hole. I also have to attach the ground wire. I can't wait to atleast fire the motor up and hear it run. That 2 part foam is some sticky stuff I got a dab on my nuckle and lost some seroudl nuckle hair. That was painful I should have taken a pic looked like I had a huge wart.


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## Autco (Jul 2, 2008)

Thanks for the update!


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## fishinguy (Aug 5, 2004)

Back at it again. I just got the coffin lid screwed down. I am going to pick up the new steering system next week. I am going to try and get the motor running tonight hopefully that goes well. Now I need to find the key to the boat. I have no idea where I put that thing.


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## fishinguy (Aug 5, 2004)

Found the key, cleaned all the old screw holes in the deck with acetone and put some epoxy putty in the screw holes. I screwed down the fill neck and attached the vent hose. I am going to do some cleaning today and try to get the motor fired up. Then I will get sum updated pics.

All that will be left after that is to attach the console wire it up and hook up the new steering.


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## fishinguy (Aug 5, 2004)

What should I use to seal the coffin lid? 5200?


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## DargelJohn (May 26, 2004)

fishinguy said:


> What should I use to seal the coffin lid? 5200?


If you ever have to take the lid back off, 5200 is kind of tough to break free. I would use clear silicone sealant.

Nice project, keep reporting. DJ


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## fishinguy (Aug 5, 2004)

Didn't get much done this weekend. I did lift the console into the boat so it is ready to go when I get some time to hook it up. Any suggestion on some documentation on boat wiring. I am going to have to go through all my wires and figure out what is what and wire it all back up to the switch panel.


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## CoastalOutfitters (Aug 20, 2004)

5200 is fine 

or 4200 , wipe all the surfaces with naptha first to get a good bond


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## fishinguy (Aug 5, 2004)

what is naptha? I have acetone will that work? Just got 2 fresh batteries hopefully this thing will start right up. Will pick up some sealant on the way home.


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## DargelJohn (May 26, 2004)

Naptha is kind of like paint thinner. 

Do not use acetone around your foam, it will melt. :fish:


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## fishinguy (Aug 5, 2004)

Thanks for the heads up. I always figured if gas couldn't melt it it was un-meltable. I'll see if Home Depot has any.


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## fishinguy (Aug 5, 2004)

Well it took awhile but she showed me some life by rumbling and spitting smoke everywhere. Took awhile to figure out the wiring but I finaly got it right. I need to pretty much cut out all the wires and start over. It is a rediculous mess. I didn't get her to stay running because it got too late on me but I heard enough to know she still has life.


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## grman (Jul 2, 2010)

fishinguy

Where are you located?

You need to drop by Amco Transmission on Hwy 3 in Webster and visit with Mike Reed or Mike Carlton. They have been trough what you are doing a few times. You will see their 75 and 78 204Cs in the parking lot.


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## fishinguy (Aug 5, 2004)

The hardest part is over. Now I just have to do the finishing up work. I measured 14' on the steering cable. Does that sound right?


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## fishinguy (Aug 5, 2004)

Here are the pics. The wiring looks straight scary to me.


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## DargelJohn (May 26, 2004)

Looks real scary because the pic is out of focus. LOL

I notice you have an Evinrude on the back, so all of that wiring should be plug-n-play into the binnacle. Do you have a fuse block under the console or rocker switches with individual fuses?


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## grman (Jul 2, 2010)

My buddies who have done this several times and they say yank all that old wiring and start over from scratch - you will be glad you did.


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## fishinguy (Aug 5, 2004)

DargelJohn said:


> Looks real scary because the pic is out of focus. LOL
> 
> I notice you have an Evinrude on the back, so all of that wiring should be plug-n-play into the binnacle. Do you have a fuse block under the console or rocker switches with individual fuses?


Not sure why the pic came out so crappy. Prolly cause it was getting dark or because the fear of that mess was making me shake.

I have the old school pull out switches. They have bus fuses under the switch.

I did find all the necessary wiring to start the boat. I also shocked the bejebus out of myself too. Then I used rubber gloves while starting.

I am going to have to label this mess then get started pulling wire.


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## fishinguy (Aug 5, 2004)

grman said:


> My buddies who have done this several times and they say yank all that old wiring and start over from scratch - you will be glad you did.


This is exactly what I was thinking.


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## saltwatersensations (Aug 30, 2004)

Wiring is not as bad as you think. You can learn alot about your equipment by rewiring it yourself. Bring it to my house and I will help you.


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## CoastalOutfitters (Aug 20, 2004)

a few mako thoughts

1st jerk all that wiring out, esp. if it is orig.

put the batterys under the console on perko switches

run all tinned wire as a home run in some kind of protective hose

put a neg buss bar in the transom , run a heavy neg. lead from it to the battery, it will simplify alot of wire mess in the transom

put separate pos. and neg buss bars under the console to a fuse panel

mock up the layout of your batterys under the console to the perkos before you bolt everything down so that you can reach all thru the doors

put in 2 new rule pumps , at least one on an auto float setup


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## fishinguy (Aug 5, 2004)

CoastalOutfitters said:


> a few mako thoughts
> 
> 1st jerk all that wiring out, esp. if it is orig.
> 
> ...


This is pretty much exactly what I wanted to do with the wiring. I am planning to get this thing running and take it for a test ride then start this daunting task.


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## Autco (Jul 2, 2008)

Glad to see the progress...its inspirational!


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## fishinguy (Aug 5, 2004)

I did a wash and put some cleaner wax on it. I need to go get me a bigger buffer then do a few coats of some good protection wax. I didn't put was down last time I cleaned it and it got filthy in no time. I figure if I am not going to redo the gelcoat I can at least shine up what I have.


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## saltwatersensations (Aug 30, 2004)

Go to harbor freight and get a variable speed buffer. They are like $30 bucks. 3m boat wax works well, not cheap.


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## fishinguy (Aug 5, 2004)

Time for a long over due update.

Was hooked up and ready to take y boat into the shop for the steering cable that wouldn't move. 007 had p'd me his nuber so I was going to call him and give it one last shot at my house then if that failed take it into the shop.

007 said bring it over and he would help me get the cable out. 

Long story short 007 is 2cool. The boat now has a 10yr newer motor, a jack plate and steering is hooked up. With out 007's help who knows how much money I would have spent and there is no telling where this project would be. Thanks Mike, we are going to get that boat out soon. I owe you many favors.

Current status of the boat is everything is hooked up but the ignition will not turn off. I have been reading up on it and the problem has to be in the wiring. 

I am going to have to give up on the old controls and install the ones that I got with the motor. Hopefully sometime next week I can get that finished up and it will solve all the problems. I have pics on my phone of everything 007 and I did, they are on y phone so I will up date when I am back at my office with some pics.


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## 007 (Mar 11, 2008)

This whole thread has been one BIG LIE!!!!!



It's a 1975 Mako.


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## fishinguy (Aug 5, 2004)

****


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## fishinguy (Aug 5, 2004)

Made the final preparations of new plugs and new filter. Ran all the new control wires throught the riggin tubes and did some light scrubbing. I also screwed down the console and added some sealant. I need to give this thing a complete scrubbing but I am thinking about just dropping it off at clean toys or another 2cool cleaning sponsor.

The boat is ready for dunking. 

007 are you ready? 

I still need to update the pics but I spent a few days busting my butt on this thing. I have a couple of little things that need finishing but I want to run the boat for the first time in about 5 years before I do anything else.


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## CoastalOutfitters (Aug 20, 2004)

get a 100pk of zip ties and bundle all that mess up for now

make sure the following work well

horn
all nav lights
bilge pump

the rest can wait

i would strongly recc you do your first test runs away from heavy boat traffic

have a working VHF and cell phone w you


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## fishinguy (Aug 5, 2004)

I do need to get some zip ties. Bilge pump is in but not wired to a switch, I could manual attach to the battery if it was necessary. I have battery powered nav lights that I can use if need be. I don't plan on being out at night. It runs good on the hose I ran it for about 20 minutes when i got finished with it. I need to hook up the fuel gauge too.


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## CoastalOutfitters (Aug 20, 2004)

fishinguy said:


> I do need to get some zip ties. Bilge pump is in but not wired to a switch, I could manual attach to the battery if it was necessary. I have battery powered nav lights that I can use if need be. I don't plan on being out at night. It runs good on the hose I ran it for about 20 minutes when i got finished with it. I need to hook up the fuel gauge too.


fix nav lights and horn....................trying to save you a ticket


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## fishinguy (Aug 5, 2004)

I have a air horn I never had an electric one. I'll get those lights hooked up. I need to renew the registration too.


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## KID CREOLE (Oct 28, 2005)

fyi just in case you didn't know!

http://shop.genuinedealz.com/

http://www.classicmako.com/

My mako


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## paragod (Aug 25, 2006)

Good job! Mine is a 78 and I have the boat apart now also I have gone back with a large poly tank and I voted not to leave the fill in the gunnel I have moved it to the side of the console and filled in the holes it will have to have a new box lid made for the floor some how it got misplaced. Nice work!


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## CoastalOutfitters (Aug 20, 2004)

Paragod , if you aren't married to that classic mako console, why don't you rebuild it into something taller w a guage panel across the front, also suggest moving the batteries up under the console


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## fishinguy (Aug 5, 2004)

Those are some good lookin Mako's. If I keep mine I have some plans for getting it freshened up. I am going to replace the console and either do the gelcoat myself or just pony up the cash and pay to have it done.

Then I would get new controls I currently had a side mount control with ignition and everything all in one and I just installed some brackets on the console and attached it. I was just at the point where either there was going to be a fiberglass fire or this thing was going in the water. 

I think as long as I can use the boat and do a project here and there I will enjoy the boat but I don't want to see it sit up as long as it did ever again.

The plus side if I keep the boat I can go through and update everything and not have a boat payment. I do like that idea but those new boats always keep me looking.


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## paragod (Aug 25, 2006)

CoastalOutfitters said:


> Paragod , if you aren't married to that classic mako console, why don't you rebuild it into something taller w a guage panel across the front, also suggest moving the batteries up under the console


This is a budget build LOL! I spent alot on the Shoalwater this was done by Lyons many yrs ag and never finshed it he lost it in a storage lean and died I think. But he did the transom and re gelcoated the whole outside but never finshed the inside I will move the bats the hard part is going to be the teak or starbaord trim around the rod boxes on the side. Im not very wood tool friendly.


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## fishinguy (Aug 5, 2004)

Well I guess life dosen't go as planned. Everything was great boat running good everything I pull the boat down and it keeps dying and now it won;t start at all. I just dropped it off at Kroll's I am freaking ****** off about that. I have been running it on the hose for over a week with no problems. Oh well I guess it is time to Bust Out Another Thousand


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## CoastalOutfitters (Aug 20, 2004)

paragod said:


> This is a budget build LOL! I spent alot on the Shoalwater this was done by Lyons many yrs ag and never finshed it he lost it in a storage lean and died I think. But he did the transom and re gelcoated the whole outside but never finshed the inside I will move the bats the hard part is going to be the teak or starbaord trim around the rod boxes on the side. Im not very wood tool friendly.


contact quality plastics in beltway 8 , you can make the trim out of black ABS or hpde plastic and router the edges smooth, less hasle than dealing w teak

it does not have to be starboard, just ask them for uv stabilized plastic that you can router an edge on.


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## paragod (Aug 25, 2006)

I buy it down off Airport and 45 its not real starboard but same thing and alot cheaper maybe the place on the belt is closer?


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