# underwater lights



## ramos.rene (Jul 31, 2012)

After pouring fiberglass resin in a conduit fitting im still tripping my GFCI. does anyone out there have a method of keeping water out of my underwater lamps? Im using 175w mercury vapor. Im going to test some different type of silicone and measure my activator to resin. Also, using a longer curing time.


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## qapd (Nov 10, 2004)

ramos.rene,

I made an underwater light. I bought a ceramic female screw on connector. Not sure what you call them. Its what the bulb scres in to. I coated the wires with a light coat of grease before tightening the screws. I put an "O" ring around bulb trying to help seal from water. I used a 3" PVC coupling, short piece of PVC Pipe and a PVC cap. I connected everything together and suspended above the coupling while I poured resin.

I would be interested in any information you will share. I want some ideas on how to protect the bulb. Seems every failure I have had was with something hitting the bulb and breaking.


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## cva34 (Dec 22, 2008)

Well i'm right there with You..I got a 400w Metal Halide ballast (used for$12 and $12 shipping .Then got a 400w mercury vapor bulb.Temporary attached all ,Man after about 10 min it was like welding in garage (no way to look at Bulb)(BRITE) So I am that Far..I am in the sameplace (more less)..As for how to seal the bulb I am at loss too.But I have soldered 1 wire to threads of bulb (common )and 1 wire to center tap on bulb base (HOT) I am thinking it will be a lot easier to seal that (there should be less voids than trying to seal the bulb and Socket )Thats why I have chosen that route.I'm thinking get Pvc fitting that fits over Base and fill with something to keep water and moisture out and electric safe (something like silicone sealer ;just have not decided what will get it done and not leak, water ,.moisture, or electricity..when its 10 ft underwater ...cva34

Shannon Foye has posted some really good stuff great read on the subject if you haven't seen find it and read. I will be re- reading his stuff and trying/testing whatever sounds like will work..Keep me posted THX '...'cva34


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## cva34 (Dec 22, 2008)

*JB weld*

Googled JB weld and looking at FAQ it sounds Interesting.Also mentions can be thinned to pour..Its an Insulator too.But haveing used a lot of JB over the years for things. I am quiet sure once you use it ,work or not (it will not come apart without breaking)) Will look more into it...cva34


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## carryyourbooks (Feb 13, 2009)

buy a submersible light fixture.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=submerisble+light+fixture+12+volt


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## limpline (Sep 15, 2009)

try heat shrink tubing


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## Johnnycb (Aug 6, 2005)

Try using the stuff lawn irrigation techs use to waterproof their wiring connections. These connections are direct buried in the ground and set their lives in water,


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## podnuh (May 26, 2004)

I've had better luck with silicone and 5200


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## ramos.rene (Jul 31, 2012)

carryyourbooks said:


> buy a submersible light fixture.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...ld-keywords=submerisble+light+fixture+12+volt


Thanks however, I AM a do it yourself'er


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## ramos.rene (Jul 31, 2012)

podnuh said:


> I've had better luck with silicone and 5200


 Im going try a marine grade silicone, but what is 5200?


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## qapd (Nov 10, 2004)

5200 is a 3M product. If I remember correctly it is like caulking but will set up and get hard.

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...ECIE20S4K7000000_nid=GSHQ68LPDHbeQH8HT14PGTgl


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## cva34 (Dec 22, 2008)

*5200*

3m makes like said above.I just do not know if it is a conductor of electricity or insulator and how it would hold up to heat that bulb gives off where it sticks to glass base (yea underwater it might stay cool enough to be no problem).If its a insulator might be worth a shot .They sell it at Academy and the 4200 ..There are several kinds some fast cure and regular cure like 14 days ..Google it ;Thats what I been doing trying to find out if it is conductor or not Thanks for it and all Idea's ..cva34


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## Texmex1951 (Aug 13, 2012)

I've just used a two part epoxy and it seems to have worked fine. If you use a silicone, engine silicone has a better bond than your standard silicone sealant.


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## ramos.rene (Jul 31, 2012)

*underwater mer vapor*

I talked to a fiberglass guy which he said that he would not use the resein. Just use the 5200. so im going to put a 1/4" bead along the bulb and then at the bottom of the PVC cap. Having a good time trying


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## Blast-n-cast (May 7, 2010)

looking for ideas


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## Aggie88 (Sep 27, 2012)

Might try to Google swimming pool lights and niches. I have a light in my pool and this is how they did it. I have not had any problems at all. Good luck.


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## Ah Yeah (Apr 14, 2009)

i purchased my light from a guy in La Marque.
my bulb is just sitting in an 1-1/2"x1-1/4" bushing with a cap on the one end of it. the positive and neg. are somehow soldered to the bulb itself, no bulb socket housing. not a bad idea though. im not sure about the type of epoxy, but im with a few others on here, 5200 is the ticket for me. specifically made for thru hull fittings. you can find it at west marine for sure.


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## ChampT22 (Mar 7, 2011)

I have 5200 on my rod holders. I took my continuity tester and place probes about 1/2" apart and no beep, so I would say 5200 is non conductive.


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## scooba (Jul 10, 2009)

Solder the wires to the bulb,cover the bulb liberally with 5200,let it harden then put it in a piece of PVC filled with a 2 part epoxy and let it cure. Put the wire thru a hole drilled in the bottom of the cap first.


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## TXXpress (May 23, 2004)

scooba said:


> Solder the wires to the bulb,cover the bulb liberally with 5200,let it harden then put it in a piece of PVC filled with a 2 part epoxy and let it cure. Put the wire thru a hole drilled in the bottom of the cap first.


I've tried several versions using the resins my neighbors suggest and I've never had a light last more than one night.

I did something similar to the above post, but I used J B Water Weld. I drilled a hole for the wire through the bottom of the PVC end cap and inserted my wire. I soldered the wires to the bulb, then took a half the contents of one package of J B Water Weld. I mixed as directed in the instructions and used that to cover the soldered wires and covered all the metal part of the mercury vapor bulb. I let it dry per the instructions. I took the remaining 1/2 content of the package, mixed it, and attached another layer around the bulb making sure some of the putty mixture covered some of the glass on the base of the bulb. Over the next couple of days I added three more packages of the J B Water Weld to the bulb and pvc base. I even added some putty to the outside of the pvc fitting where the electrical cord passes through the pvc fitting as addl protection. The pvc base was was completely filled with the water weld mixture.

I submerged the green light in the canal last week and it was been working ever sense. I used a 250 watt ballast and bulb on my set up. You can see the difference in the amount of light versus the neighbors 175 watt. Redfish were in the light the first night! Woo Hoo!


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## aporcarello (Sep 20, 2012)

I've built quite a few underwater lights and I've always used Marine Expoy I purchased from West Side Marine it's cost is between 19 and 22 bucks (total of 8 oz when mixed) and it works great, no leakage and it's usually set and hardened in around 24 hours, 
Build your own, it works it works well and it's a WHOLE lot cheaper then paying about $250 for lights


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## aporcarello (Sep 20, 2012)

I would not recommend using Sicilone, I would use 2 part Marine Grade Epoxy, Sicilone requires air to fully dry, 2 part Epoxy when mixed causes a chemical reaction which causes it to harden, I have built 2 underwater MV green fishing lights and neither have leaked or broken. I got my epoxy at West Side marine it's 2 4oz bottles cost was around $22, and it works great.
:flag:


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