# Question on towing a travel trailer



## Mike.Bellamy (Aug 8, 2009)

I need some advice, I am pulling a 26 - 27ft travel trailer with my Tundra. The back end was sagging and it was almost like riding in a boat the first trip so I installed air bag helper springs in the rear and I have the adjustable hitch up on the top set of bolts. I aired it up until it looked pretty even and went on my way, my question is with top speed being 60MPH before it feels like it is getting squirrely. Maybe the hitch is too high? I don't have friends with experience with any of this so I have kind of been on my own on this. Thanks


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## RB II (Feb 26, 2009)

Set the truck/trailer up so that the trailer is level when being towed. Is 60 mph the max speed that the truck will pull the trailer or just your max speed? Sounds like you need a tongue stabilizer to help with the sway on the trailer. Makes a world of difference. Also, even with a stabilizer, the trailer will sway. You just have to understand how much is too much, that is only learned through experience.


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## SSST (Jun 9, 2011)

You need the leveling attachment that comes with most longer bumper pulls just for this very reason. I don't know the technical name for it, but we pull longer trailers than yours with 1/2 ton trucks with very little squat. Did you buy it used? Usually, if you buy from a dealer, they come standard.


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## Mike.Bellamy (Aug 8, 2009)

I have the sway bar and the bars with chains that attach the hitch to the trailer I just forget what they are called. 60 MPH was top speed before it got squirrely. I have experimented with those chain bars tighter and looser but no big change either way.


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## Mike.Bellamy (Aug 8, 2009)

Bought it used, I will google leveling attachment and see what that might be.


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## Mike.Bellamy (Aug 8, 2009)

*What I have*

This is what I have, the red line is the sway bar that I have but it doesn't show.


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## SV_DuckBuster (Sep 18, 2007)

Ditch that hitch set up and sell it on craigslist. Get an Equalizer hitch with integrated sway control and your worries will be over. Blue Ox makes a good one too but it is more pricey.

Follow the install instructions on the Equalizer and you will be good to go. Solves sway issues, porpoising and sag all in one. I pull a 37' bumper-pull and went through the same issues you are having. Got the Equalizer and can now safely tow any speed I want and don't get pushed around by wind or passing trucks/buses on the highway. No more white knuckles on long trips.


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## Mike.Bellamy (Aug 8, 2009)

Thanks SV, I will look that up right away.


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## SSST (Jun 9, 2011)

CHARLOTTE'S DAD said:


> This is what I have, the red line is the sway bar that I have but it doesn't show.


Well, that's the exact setup we use, so I guess throw my advice out the window, lol. Only time we run into problems is towing with a strong cross wind, it can get a little squirrely for sure.


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## bwguardian (Aug 30, 2005)

When you break the chains over to make them tight, you should do so with the truck and trailer in a level condition. To do this properly, the trailer should still be supported on the jack stand...no tongue weight on the truck ball mount. This makes the truck and trailer one unit and rides better.


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## Mike.Bellamy (Aug 8, 2009)

I just can't get that set up right SSST, I may lower the hitch a notch and see if that helps with the airbags raising it back up to level. Maybe the hitch is too high on the truck?


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## Mike.Bellamy (Aug 8, 2009)

*This*



bwguardian said:


> When you break the chains over to make them tight, you should do so with the truck and trailer in a level condition. To do this properly, the trailer should still be supported on the jack stand...no tongue weight on the truck ball mount. This makes the truck and trailer one unit and rides better.


This might be what I am doing wrong, the way I understood it was to put the trailer on the hitch then raise up with jack stand and maybe I have been going too far up before putting on these chains.

I appreciate all of your input.


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## bwguardian (Aug 30, 2005)

Back the truck straight back so the ball is under the hitch. Lower the jack so the hitch can be secured onto the ball. Lower the jack a couple turns. At this point the truck and trailer should be in a level condition. If not, then adjust the ball mount on the truck. If so, then break the leveling chains over firmly. Adjust the links on the chains so you can barely get them over and secure. Lower the jack the rest of the way...when you do this there should be little to no weight on the jack.


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## bwguardian (Aug 30, 2005)

Btw, I have utilized that same setup you posted a picture of many times, and unless the cross winds are really strong, I don't bother with that sway bar.


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## SSST (Jun 9, 2011)

Yeah, I forgot to mention that key point BW brought up, gotta have the trailer jacked up when you tighten the chains. I bet you'll have a lot better ride if you can just get it level.


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## texas bohunk (Dec 10, 2010)

You may want to look at how the trailer is loaded. Too much weight in the rear of the trailer will cause it to sway.


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## Gottagofishin (Dec 17, 2005)

I think BWG is onto something. Those torsion bars of the WD hitch don't look like they have near enough tension on them. You need to really cinch them up. 

Also, don't load up the bed of the truck with stuff. Put the stuff in the trailer and used it to balance the load. 

Good Luck.


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## GoneSouth (Jun 4, 2010)

My .02

1. the ball should be set so your truck is level and when your set the trailer hitch on it the trailer is level before any weight is transferred. 

2. The equalizing hitch is critical. And I agree the set up you have looks lite for that trailer. The equalizing hitch alone should be able to distribute the load properly so you truck does not sit too low or exceed its hitch capacity.

3. You have a sway bar and I would use one. Maybe get a bigger one to go with the more robust equalizing hitch.

I made some guesses and looked up a Toyota Tundra and it shows max trailer towing capacity of 9100 lbs. You are probably approaching that. So the hitch/sway bar is very important. 

Next a half ton truck with a much larger weight on the back can cause the sway you are experiencing. A strong sway bar should help. The sway is partially caused by vortex shedding of air coming off the trailer. I is also affected by the shape of the trailer. That you can't change very well. 3/4 and 1 ton trucks help to block that wind and are heavier so the effect is greatly reduced.


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## fido98 (Oct 18, 2011)

I had a similar setup with my Tundra. In addition to the trailer sway control I bought a sway bar for the Tundra from the TRD Catalog. It made the daily driving better as well as helped when trailering.


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## DUTY FIRST (Jun 23, 2012)

It looks like your trailer is a front kitchen setup. If so, that causes the tongue weight to be a lot heavier than other types. That is really an advantage IF you have enough tension on the chains of your weight distributing hitch. Bear in mind that although the weight distributing hitch will take some of the load off the rear of your truck, the forward weight distribution of the TRAILER will help reduce sway.Once set up properly the weight forward will help reduce trailer sway. 

Others have given you good advice, but try to really get tension on the chains. It should take some serious effort on the pry bar (pipe) when latching down the chains. You will need to take some weight off the hitch using your tongue jack in order to cinch it down tight. With that much tension you will probably find your spring bars are not exactly level, but under a bit more tension than that. Also experiment with the amount of friction adjustment on your sway bar to help control sway. Don't overdo that, but do use a moderate amount of friction. I suggest turning the little handle tighter by about 3/4 of a turn after getting it barely snug.


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## K Man (Jun 21, 2012)

I will throw this out there which may be a little late. I think your trailer is to heavy for your truck. If you are traveling any distances, regardless of adjustments you will see similar problems.


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## Geordican (Jul 16, 2015)

I had an f150 and towed a 31 ft bunk house. This is how I hooked mine up. 

Lower hitch on to ball low enough to lock it. Raise the Jack lifting the back of the truck about 4"-5". This creates less distance for stabilizer bar/chain on hitch to trailer tongue. 

I used to connect chains with 4 links dangling. If you lift it high enough you can attach chains with out a helper bar. 

Lower jack down and let it create its own tension. That will help with the back end squating. I always connect the extra sway bar. 

I adjusted my hitch height to ride perfectly level and found the trailer would sway like a flag in the wind. My trailer towed better with the nose riding a little low. 

If you go east or west the cross wind will always be a b----.


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## Mike.Bellamy (Aug 8, 2009)

Geordican said:


> I had an f150 and towed a 31 ft bunk house. This is how I hooked mine up.
> 
> Lower hitch on to ball low enough to lock it. Raise the Jack lifting the back of the truck about 4"-5". This creates less distance for stabilizer bar/chain on hitch to trailer tongue.
> 
> ...


Thanks for all of the advise everyone, my next truck will be a bit bigger to try to put this all behind us but it will be a few years so I will experiment further and check back with the results when it is possible. Have a great weekend.


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## rgrimsley (Feb 27, 2013)

SV_DuckBuster said:


> Ditch that hitch set up and sell it on craigslist. Get an Equalizer hitch with integrated sway control and your worries will be over. Blue Ox makes a good one too but it is more pricey.
> 
> Follow the install instructions on the Equalizer and you will be good to go. Solves sway issues, porpoising and sag all in one. I pull a 37' bumper-pull and went through the same issues you are having. Got the Equalizer and can now safely tow any speed I want and don't get pushed around by wind or passing trucks/buses on the highway. No more white knuckles on long trips.


 BLUE OX all the way!!!! I had a 29 ft Keystone Passport single slide out that I pulled with my 2010 Nissan Titan 4x4. That trailer was about the max that I would comfortably tow behind my truck. Had the Blue Ox installed right off the bat and loved it. Hardly any sway or squirreliness. Another great benefit, is once it's set up correctly, you don't have to disconnect it to make sharp turns. I could leave mine hooked up and turn around in my cul-de-sac (not great for the tandem axles or tires on the trailer though). Towed great at 50, 60, 70. Usually ran about 65 though. The Titan would really suck the go-go juice over that, even worse than normal.


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