# Bayer 3 in 1 vs. Scott's bonus s



## Red Killer

I will be spreading weed and feed soon. I have spread Scott's for years now and have been happy with the results. Has anyone used bayers 3in1? Is it better?


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## Bocephus

Never had much luck with weed & feed. 

I just use 13-13-13 and it works as well as anything, and a lot cheaper than the weed & feed.


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## Waterdawg19

Bocephus said:


> Never had much luck with weed & feed.
> 
> I just use 13-13-13 and it works as well as anything, and a lot cheaper than the weed & feed.


Is the 13-13-13 safer for trees and such. I've heard bad things about weed and feed in that regard.


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## Red Killer

Bocephus said:


> Never had much luck with weed & feed.
> 
> I just use 13-13-13 and it works as well as anything, and a lot cheaper than the weed & feed.


Ive never heard of it, where can you buy it? Do you only spread it once a year?


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## Bocephus

It's just a blend of Nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, hence the 13-13-13 being the mix of the three. Lot's of fertilizer companies make the 13-13-13 blend.

It's just a general purpose fertilizer that's good for your vegetable garden, shrubs, trees, hedges, flowers and lawn.


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## goatchze

Do you need to both fertilize and put down weed control? If not, split them up. Then you don't have to worry about trees. As a general rule, I steer clear of "weed and feeds".

As Bo mentioned, 13-13-13 is a balance of N, P, and K, the three primary components of fertilizer. It's fine to put under trees.

It is more effort, but I would recommend getting your soil analyzed. It's cheap and easy. (Analysis is $10 + your shipping to the lab) I test my pastures every year.

http://soiltesting.tamu.edu/

Analysis will come back and tell you exactly what fertilizer to put down and how much to put down. No guess work.

Then, apart from fertilizing, I would look at what weeds you're trying to control and how best to control them. No need to put down a herbicide if you don't need to (and no need to mis-time the application of herbicide because you need to put down fertilizer)


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## Muddskipper

*Soil test and weed and feed*

Good deal from plants for all seasons off of 249 pm the north side
"_We have teamed up with AgriLife Extension Service to offer discounted soil tests!!! Regular price is $10 each discounted to $7.00 each!!! So from 2/17-2/27 you can bring your baggies of soil and drop them off here,(make sure to label the location) fill out your soil test form and AgriLife extension will pick them up and perform the test and mail you the results. Once you receive the results we are here to help you get the right products to amend your soil. Skip Ricter from the Extension Service will be available mid march at our store to assist with your results. Dates for his visit are to be determined and we will send out an email to announce. What a great opportunity to know what your soil needs!! Don't miss out!!!"_

Weed and feed- just about every professional and radio host in Texas all agree that Weed and Feed should be avoided.

FYI- it's too late for spring weeds....they have already come up.....treat with a pre-emergent in a month for summer weeds. Or grow real heavy St Augstine while mowing high and you won't have a weed issue.

I go organic, as it causes less problems but to each their own.

Since syenthtic fertilizer are 75% Salt....it dries out the top of the soil...causing you to water more....causing you a fungus...blah blah blah

IMO- we cause more issues trying to help.....just mow high and pull weeds by hand if they get big.....a heck of a lot cheaper for the average guy in a neighborhood


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## cajunautoxer

It's not too late for a pre-emergent. Next month is when more weeds pop up. Barricade is one you can use a spreader. . Use that around grass and mulch beds. The reason for pre-emergent is you can use it on flower beds and trees. If you already have a good bit of weeds you can always spot treat with a broad leaf weed killer. Right now is the time for a quick release N fertilizer and then in 6-8 wks you go with a slow N release summer blend. The great thing about using a pre emergent is you can then fertilizer on trees and flower beds
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk


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## Tall Texan

Atrizine is what you'll find in most weed and feed. It can damages roots on trees and small bushes, and that is why is should be avoided.

I plan to start a pre emergent cycle this year, but I have not decided on which one to go with.

The plan is to follow something like the link below, and see where it takes me.

http://www.randylemmon.com/lawns/fertilize.html


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## K Man

Mudskipper what are your thoughts on using milogranite on lawns? I have been following your advice for 3 years now, and my lawn is all natural and has done really well. My neighbor has paid someone to take care of his lawn and landscape for years and came to me in the spring of last year and asked me for advice. I told him about not using synthetics fertilizer. He is taking care of his own now and his lawn looks much better.


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## Muddskipper

First I have never used it

But I always feel like what's made up north needs to stay up north- its made in Milwaukee 
And made from microbes that eat waste water

It claims to be organic - but when you heat treat something it kills some things that you want

I try to stick with stuff from Texas
Micro-Life, Natures Guide are my two Go-Tos .... I also use dried molasses 

I mowed low for thatch twice and I'm back up high already

The grass is very green and the freeze spots are filling in

By Easter I will be completely green and ramped up


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## K Man

Thank you! Down south no one carries neither product. Checked and it cost about $25 per bag to ship. Going to have to make a trip looks like to pick up a few bags.


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