# Pen Finish



## FishBone (Oct 11, 2004)

What do you use on your pens that are made of wood to make them shine? I'm not getting the shine I want on my pens.
I have been using Hut Crystal Coat. Should I be using something else? I'm also sanding to a 1200 grit.
Do the masters want to share their secrets?

FishBone


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## Tortuga (May 21, 2004)

FB..I run thru the dry sandpaper up to 600..then apply some EEE cream and spin it until the paper towel gets too hot to handle..this will take it to about 1200...then a final finish coat of Behlens Woodworking Polish...seems to get the job done for me...Tried Crystal Coat a few times...but it takes a lot longer to dry for handling and assembly...and 'patience' is not one of my better traits..LOL

occasionally I'll skip the Behlens and use the Hut Wax Sticks...same routine..just takes a little longer...

It probably doens't give a 'glass' finish like CA...but I just have never had any luck with CA finish on ANYTHING.. Know a lot of folks us it...but the procedure is just beyond me...LOL


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## bill (May 21, 2004)

for small projects this is to me the best (I tried so many I lost count)

This is a great and easy shine for pens and other small items.

I call it "Bobby's Super Shine"

3 ounces of plain, uncolored shellac. (Zinsser’s Bulls Eye Shellac, Clear)


3 ounces of Boiled Linseed Oil. (Do not boil plain linseed oil)


3 ounces of Denatured Alcohol (do not use any other alcohol product)

I use a pint sized mason jar for mixing and long term storage of the materials. Pour exact
amounts into the Mason jar and mix thoroughly. Do not over agitate.
Pour a day’s use into a small squeeze bottle for use.
Note: The alcohol will evaporate from open containers and the squeeze bottle. Return what
you don’t use to the mason jar for a pure finish.
To use:
With the lathe stopped, using a paper towel, rub in a good coat, covering all the surfaces of
the piece. Rub it in well and wait a minute, repeat the process. Now, with the lathe running
at 500-1000 RPM, add some finish to the paper towel and apply it slowly to the surface.
Keep the towel moving and the finish spreading. As the shellac adheres, the oil will begin to
catalyze and the alcohol will evaporate. All three steps are necessary for a good finish.
The coating will begin to build as you apply. At some point you will treat the finish as
complete and stop adding material and polish the surface. If it begins to attract the towel
or get gummy, stop lapping and allow it to set for a minute. Start again when it sets up. A
coat of wax makes a finished product with great results.


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## bill (May 21, 2004)

ok, then I use my buffer on it to make the glass shine


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## Bobby (May 21, 2004)

bill said:


> for small projects this is to me the best (I tried so many I lost count)
> 
> This is a great and easy shine for pens and other small items.
> 
> ...


Always worked for me too.

On plastic pens I use car polish as a final shine.


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## Tortuga (May 21, 2004)

OK..I surrender..LOL...Months ago I bought a pint of Zinzners, Denat Alc and BLO...and a quart jar...Just too lazy to mix it up...but now I'm gonna give it a shot..

Any problem just dipping edge of paper towel in the big jar for application??... If so I guess I gotta find a small applicator bottle....

Got a can of Renaissance Wax...will that work for Final Touch ?


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## Bobby (May 21, 2004)

Jim I just used a folded up paper towel to apply


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## Flat Fish (Jun 18, 2005)

I try CA all the time. When it works it is awesome, but it don't always work. Seems like some woods, like mesquite, it always works and others, like BOW, it is hit or miss.

I completely gave up on CA for Cedar.

I use Bobbys super shine when not using CA.

I like to sand to 2000, then apply the finish. Not sure it matters, but it is quick once you're past 800 anyway. With CA I always go 800 to 2000 then 8000 and 12000 micromesh after the CA is cured. This takes out any dimples in the finish. This gets a nice shine. Unfortunately I don't have a buffing setup.


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## Flat Fish (Jun 18, 2005)

Ooh, and with the super shine, after I get the buildup I want I apply some pressur and get some heat going. That polishes it up nicely.


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## Bobby (May 21, 2004)

There is another finish out there that is supposed to be easy and good. You melt some Plexiglas in a bottle with acetone. Takes a few days to melt but after it melts you put it on with the lathe turning. with a paper towel folded. I have never got it to work but have seen some of the results of a good finish with it. Looks like the pen has a glass finish.


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## Tortuga (May 21, 2004)

Well...by now you all know the limits of my 'patience'.. Just couldn't wait. Mixed up about a half jar of "Bobby Juice"... Had a cocobolo blank already drilled, tubed, etc... dry sanded it to 600..then hit it with the "Juice" a couple of times.....REALLY came out nice.. Finished it with a dose of Renaissance wax, but think it really looked glassier with just the BJ on it. Any reason to add the waxing step that you guys know of ???


Score another one for Bobby....(and another 'stolen' idea for the geezer):biggrin:

Thanks...again, Bobby....


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## bill (May 21, 2004)

only time I use wax is on a larger piece because it will dull in time, so a rebuff with wax will be needed...just think pens with wax are touched too often and it wears off easy


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## Flat Fish (Jun 18, 2005)

I am not sure the wax adds anything, myself. But I put it on anyway.


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