# Tried out the "mono wrap"



## apslp (Jul 1, 2008)

Well folks I am not going to get into the whole debate of who's it is and what to call it but I thought it was a cool technique and thought to give it a try!
Here is what I found:
I started with Size C NCP red, white and blue, I wrapped it onto the blank (IP842 7') and then burnished it. I then coated it with epoxy (regular.. I did not have any 5 min) and then started to wrap the 30lb Big Game Mono. Wiped off the excess and the first pic is the result.

I did not like this effect and I knew it was not right. Well I cut it off and tried again thinking I may not have burnished it well enough? Tried wrapping the same direction also. No change! I tried 2 more times to get it right, changing direction, burnishing style etc. Still no help!

Well I figured I would try a different size thread (A) maybe the C thread and 30lb mono didn't work well together.. what did I have to loose?

I changed to Size A NCP White and Blue and a Size A Metallic Red, I then made a test run by wrapping the mono without epoxy and I got the intended effect!! Backed off the mono coated with a light coat of epoxy re wrapped the mono and finally got the proper effect as seen in the second pic! 

I figured I would share this with yall just in case someone else runs into the same problem.


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## venturarodandlure (Feb 14, 2009)

Looks awesome!


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## Terry G. (Jul 17, 2006)

add it to the Vault pard..


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## Gilbert (May 25, 2004)

that's pretty dang cool


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## conk (Mar 25, 2007)

I like them both. Cool stuff.


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## fishhardtx (Jan 23, 2010)

Very cool! I really like the colors... Good job. :dance:


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## mark blabaum (Dec 6, 2007)

Very nice Allen.


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## Terrynj (Jun 27, 2006)

Allen brought it by today! It looks even better in real time! AWESOME bling!


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## abz400 (Nov 3, 2008)

looks sweet


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## Goags (May 28, 2004)

Allen, thanks for the test report. That 2nd one really pops!


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## Steve Gardner (Mar 23, 2008)

pretty wild looking I too like both styles.
Have aquestion, Is there any concern as to how well the mono will hold up to long term sun exposure?


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## apslp (Jul 1, 2008)

Thanks guys. Steve, I have no idea how it will hold up to sun exposure or abuse. I plan to use this rod this year just to see how it goes and give it a good test. My worry would be more about the dirt and grime buildup than anything else but I guess we will see. I just wanted to point out the issue of the effect not showing up properly with the first thread/mono combo as I did not see that in the tutorial anywhere!


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## quickstix (Dec 23, 2007)

I don't see anything wrong with either one...they both look awesome.


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## venturarodandlure (Feb 14, 2009)

Every time I use a different test mono the effect changes drastically. I like 100lb with D thread and 40 or 50lb with A thread or Madeira..Million different combo's. As far as the covering the mono I know that Dave has experimented with shrink wrap and Bill Havens and Greg vella have used clear packing tape and saran wrap and some other clear materials to cover the mono prior to epoxying. That way the effect isn't lost and the wrap can be covered for protection and to keep the junk out. On my personal rod I haven't covered it up because I wan't to see how it holds up without protection. It is very easy to change anyway...Here are some different pics with different size mono's. The first pic is before the mono went on.


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## Terrynj (Jun 27, 2006)

That really looks good! The first time I saw this technique was on Bloody Decks this past summer...was that you or do you know who posted it?


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## venturarodandlure (Feb 14, 2009)

Terrynj said:


> That really looks good! The first time I saw this technique was on Bloody Decks this past summer...was that you or do you know who posted it?


 Was not me. I have seen Dave Hauser and Greg Vella both do it on there.


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## Comedie (Nov 1, 2008)

apslp said:


> Thanks guys. Steve, I have no idea how it will hold up to sun exposure or abuse. I plan to use this rod this year just to see how it goes and give it a good test. My worry would be more about the dirt and grime buildup than anything else but I guess we will see. I just wanted to point out the issue of the effect not showing up properly with the first thread/mono combo as I did not see that in the tutorial anywhere!


Well you better read the CKW tutorial again. A couple paragraphs and a pic in there showing the trial of various mono diameters on a wrap. See "Find the Mono That Pairs Best".
Rule of thumb? If you are wrapping, say, 3 A threads, look at a mono diameter approx equal to 3*A. Three D? 3*D. And then check the mono diameters on either side of that calc as well.

Depends on the pattern you seek of course. When you get really close to the diameter equal to the thread widths, and wrapping the mono the opposite direction of the thread' the pattern slant becomes more vertical. It also yields much larger contiguous areas of a given color that colorshift more with viewing angle.

See the pic showing the trials of 30#-80#, and see the slant change between the 40# and 50#? Right in between those two was the sweet spot in terms of diameter match to my as-wrapped foursome of 40wt thread. With an exact diameter match, you can end up with something like a monotone effect that shifts with the viewing angle, especially if you wrap the mono the 'wrong' direction (same direction as the thread wrap).

......

Steve... so far as longevity, well it is obviously going to depend on the mono, it's UV resistance, and hardness. I like Yo-Zuri Hybrid because it is tough and has lasted me well in abrasive bottom fishing. No doubt other lines around that are similar. But as tough as Hybrid is, note when I've done the CKW as grips, I covered with PVC shrink.
So while you can cover for more rigorous abrasion resistance, I think UV exposure is the broader issue. Some lines just don't hold up well to UV, which is another reason why I use Hybrid. I give all my rods, CKW or not, a coat of 303 Aerospace at least once a year. It's a good sunscreen for plastics, and it makes cleanup a lot easier too.


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## Steve Gardner (Mar 23, 2008)

"I think UV exposure is the broader issue"

That is the question I'm asking.
Over the years I've seen mono that has been exposed over many days of sunlight. Form what looks like hairline fractures perpendicular the mono's length. Showing up as white lines, then eventually those lines becoming breaking points as the fractures eventually work though the line.
Was wondering if the Epoxy would hold it things in place or if the pieces would eventually start chipping out?


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## Comedie (Nov 1, 2008)

Steve Gardner said:


> "I think UV exposure is the broader issue"
> 
> That is the question I'm asking.
> Over the years I've seen mono that has been exposed over many days of sunlight. Form what looks like hairline fractures perpendicular the mono's length. Showing up as white lines, then eventually those lines becoming breaking points as the fractures eventually work though the line.
> Was wondering if the Epoxy would hold it things in place or if the pieces would eventually start chipping out?


Well plastics in general have the problem. Some more than others. Rods, seats, wraps, etc. Which is why I constantly recommend 303 Aerospace to folks. Ask guys who have plastic windows in their boats who leave them outside year round, and you'll no doubt trip into 303 Areospace users. Same thing with motorcycle folks and those with convertible autos. 
Anyway, that YZ Hybrid line I use is actually nylon encased in a fluoro jacket. Fluoro is supposedly UV proof. Has a nylon core too, which has a higher RI. I certainly know it has lasted much better outdoors than other monos I've spooled up with. Tried a bunch of monos, including various optical cables and musical instrument mono. In the end, the Hybrid rose to the top for me. No doubt there are other good lines, but I know there are a lot of bad ones too.

Still, even tho I think YZ Hybrid is up to the task, I shrinkwrap the Hybrid when I know it will get some abuse. If I really worried, I'd put an epoxy skin on the PVC too. But any which way, 303 is going on last.

Guess I'll mention that I'm actually not prone to using epoxy in the CKW bottom layer anymore. I'm liking flexible auto clearcoat, with no reducer added. Good 2 part clearcoat is about as guaranteed to stay clear and put up with the elements as anything, it is made to adhere, and has a nice long potlife. Certainly every epoxy I've tried has yellowed to various extents when I put the leftovers out in the sun. I also have a bunch of clearcoat, so what the heck


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