# .44mag/H110 question



## RJVFISHER (Aug 26, 2005)

I have used Hogdon H110 powder to reload .44mag with 240gr JHP with great results. Why am I not finding any data for H110 powder for lead cast bullets(ie. 200gr LRNFP)? I have not seen data on any lead cast bullets. Is H110 not acceptable for lead bullets? Is it safe to use the same charge for lead cast bullets as for jacketed bullets of the same weight? Any help you can give me is appreciated. 

Also, if you have a good recipe for 200gr LRNFP, I would be interested in trying it.

Thanks
Ronnie


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## B-Money (May 2, 2005)

It may get a little hot for lead and push it too fast at the minimum load. Just guessing. Gas check may fix it for you.

I've had decent luck with blue dot and HP 38 on 38sp lead. Every time I try to push lead too hard, I get fouling all over the forcing cone. You may experience the same problems with your Dirty Harry gun.


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## Pocketfisherman (May 30, 2005)

Lyman and Speer manuals both have H110 data for lead hard cast bullets.


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## B-Money (May 2, 2005)

Lee has one for a 215 gr lead:

h110 26.0 gr 1.535 moal

lyman 210 lead 
h110 27.5 max 1.645 oal

*** validate these numbers.


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## RJVFISHER (Aug 26, 2005)

Thanks for your responses. I email Hogdon's help desk and they said it is not recommended to use H110 with lead bullets because it is too hot. I may try it anyway.


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## CHARLIE (Jun 2, 2004)

Gas check the bullets.

Charlie


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## B-Money (May 2, 2005)

You will probably have a big time fouling problem. Run a jacketed bullet after every couple of cylinders to blow out the lead.


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## Pocketfisherman (May 30, 2005)

A lot of time leading is not the fault of the powder. You're either pushing a soft bullet too fast, or your barrel surface is rough. You can get rid of the latter by lapping the barrel. If you are shooting magnum velocities, then hardcast lead bullets with linotype material added is essential. A good source for such bullets is Beartooth bullets, and they also have an excellent online forum for those that shoot lead. If you're still getting leading with a lapped barrel and hardcast lead, then try the gas check. IF you're casting your own, and don't have a good source for hardening alloys, then using the gas checks is a good idea. But typically, you'll get slightly better accuracy if you can keep it simple and avoid the gas checks.


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## Pocketfisherman (May 30, 2005)

Bobby Miller said:


> You will probably have a big time fouling problem. Run a jacketed bullet after every couple of cylinders to blow out the lead.


That is about the worst thing you can do. You essentially just soldered copper to the inside of your barrel that will be double hard to remove.


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## B-Money (May 2, 2005)

Pocketfisherman said:


> That is about the worst thing you can do. You essentially just soldered copper to the inside of your barrel that will be double hard to remove.


Evidence is that it works. I use this method with both of my 357 revolvers. Neither have soldering of lead in the cone; I looked....twice.


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## Pocketfisherman (May 30, 2005)

The copper gets deposited on top the lead, and sticks twice as bad as it would to a clean barrel (not the forcing cont). You won't see it unless you have a borescope. But a clean patch and copper cleaner will find it via blue deposits on the wet patch.


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## B-Money (May 2, 2005)

Pocketfisherman said:


> The copper gets deposited on top the lead, and sticks twice as bad as it would to a clean barrel (not the forcing cont). You won't see it unless you have a borescope. But a clean patch and copper cleaner will find it via blue deposits on the wet patch.


Done...no problems, no lingering blue copper nitrate (or whatever copper salt that is) on the patch. I wondered about pressure issues with pushing the copper over the lead and layered fouling, too, but never found it an issue.

I've brushed lots of lead out of my barrel. This method of pushing a couple of good bullets after the lead ones sounds too easy.. I know. It wasn't my great discovery. I was skeptical, too. But it works and the only side effect is that I can get my gun clean twice as fast.

BTW....I've never ever seen a gun book say to not mix lead and jackets in the same session. Pocket...where are you getting your info, sir?

Sorry we hijacked the thread. I promise it will happen again. Take home message - clean your gun after you use H110. OH...and I never let facts cloud my opinions.


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## Pocketfisherman (May 30, 2005)

My info is from both personal experience, and that of fellow folks who shoot Bullseye Pistol matches, also called 2700 matches. Between practice and matches, I shoot about 500-700 rounds a month of 45 ACP. I shoot lead handloads for the 25 yard line, and Nosler 185 gr HP jacketed handloads for the 50 yd line. If I don't clean after the lead before using the jacketed ammo during a match, It makes for very difficult cleanup afterwards and the copper is almost bonded to the barrel. This is a very highly polished match grade barrel too. I get the lead and copper out with a piece of chore boy bronze wool pot scrubber pad wrapped around a worn bore brush and scour the barrel. This is standard practice for bullseye shooters. It is really obvious when fouling is an issue with my two 1911's I use for matches, the x ring is pretty small at 25 yards, let alone 50 and I know my consistency levels and abilities well enough to tell when something else is out of whack.


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## B-Money (May 2, 2005)

Accurate #9 may work better under lead with no gas check.


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