# checkerboard



## Goags (May 28, 2004)

I mentioned yesterday on QT's thread, that there might be an easier way to do the checkers. A couple of folks have asked me, so ...
The Mudhole youtube video shows making a 3 ring checker. If you want 3, then that's the best way to do it. The HARDEST part is getting the checkers staggered equally when you're gluing them up on the mandrel. If you want 2 or 4 rings, it's easier for me to glue together the 2 or 4 1/8th" rings first, then use the pie jig, and flip every other one before gluing the pie pieces back together... they're already equally staggered. Here's a 2 and a 4, maybe you'll see what I mean? You may see other imperfections, but the checker spacing can't be off if you do it this way. Hope this helps rather than confuses!


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## Swampland (Mar 25, 2008)

Jerry the outlines with the white bands really makes the pattern of the checkerboard rings pop. Just read an article in Rodmaker magazine describing the very same thing you've just done. Good job on both.


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## Gig Flatty (May 21, 2008)

Looks great. Anybody ever try making checkers out of blocks. That's my next project. Make two blocks worth that will all be exact. What are you using for the white trim bands?


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## johnmyjohn (Aug 6, 2006)

That is a very good looking piece of cork. It's all about detail isn't it.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Nov 4, 2011)

Ive seen checkerboard cork before but thats beautiful!


-mac-


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## Goags (May 28, 2004)

I read that too, Lance. I had never thought about applying the idea to threadwork like in the article! DUH! GF- the white is plastic spacer material from Texas Knife Co....it's hard as heck and requires a different glue...MarkB turned me on to Titebond polyurethane, which is the only thing that seems to work w/ it. I use Titebond 3 for the checkers and Rod Bond for everything else.


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## mark blabaum (Dec 6, 2007)

Jerry, I also find that is the best way to do checker boards. If you want they checker board three high, start with the four rings then turn one of them off to make it three.


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## Goags (May 28, 2004)

mark blabaum said:


> Jerry, I also find that is the best way to do checker boards. If you want they checker board three high, start with the four rings then turn one of them off to make it three.


I'll never be too old to learn...GOOD one! I should have said you also turned me on to the Texas Knife stuff. Maybe you can address GF's question on block cork...you're the Grip Master!


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## mark blabaum (Dec 6, 2007)

Jerry, I don't want to steal your thread, but I have a tutorial that uses flat boards to make a checker. The same priciple applies to blocks of cork http://rodbuilding101.com/docs/Checkers.pdf . The photo below is made using flat 1/8" pieces of cork. If it doesn't load let me know at [email protected] and I can send any one a copy of the PDF file.


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## Wafflejaw (Jun 15, 2010)

Looks great Jerry!!
After you show me this method I made some test ones that came out very well!

I need to do it on a rod soon...


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## LIL' RAT RED (Apr 4, 2008)

Are you using the high tech plastic spacer.024? I would like to try them but I'm not sure which ones to buy, there's so many choices. Thanks


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## Goags (May 28, 2004)

LIL' RAT RED said:


> Are you using the high tech plastic spacer.024? I would like to try them but I'm not sure which ones to buy, there's so many choices. Thanks


Yep, that's what I used in the 2 pictures. I've also used the .0625" 3 layer, as well as the .100" 3 layer. If anyone else has used other materials for doing thin accent rings, don't hesitate to speak up. Jerry


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## xxxxxQTRODS (Nov 17, 2009)

*spacer*

i see know what happen when u use spacer in the jig it makes the pieces more percise..........bennie


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## LIL' RAT RED (Apr 4, 2008)

Goags said:


> Yep, that's what I used in the 2 pictures. I've also used the .0625" 3 layer, as well as the .100" 3 layer. If anyone else has used other materials for doing thin accent rings, don't hesitate to speak up. Jerry


Goags. Ive got the order of spacers in from the knife co. and they were smaller than i had thought. Now when i go to glue them to the cork to seperate the different patterens, do I cut the plastic into disks and then just glue them into place? I'm not to sure on how to utilize them properly and I dont want to waste to much of it cause its kinda expensive. also when i go to sand the cork down will the spacer buff out to a shine? and what do you use to get the shine on the cork?
Thanks for your help on this issue


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## Goags (May 28, 2004)

LIL' RAT RED said:


> Goags. Ive got the order of spacers in from the knife co. and they were smaller than i had thought. Now when i go to glue them to the cork to seperate the different patterens, do I cut the plastic into disks and then just glue them into place? I'm not to sure on how to utilize them properly and I dont want to waste to much of it cause its kinda expensive. also when i go to sand the cork down will the spacer buff out to a shine? and what do you use to get the shine on the cork?
> Thanks for your help on this issue


Red, this is just how I do it:
Trace around a cork ring on the plastic sheet, marking the center hole too. Cut the plastic discs out with a dremel...I always overbore the center hole so there's not as much plastic to ream, later. Wipe down both sides w/ denatured alcohol. Using a scotchbrite pad, prep the sides for gluing w/ the Titebond polyurethane. Get all the cork rings and premade checker rings layed out and the mandrel waxed w/ paraffin. I use the polyurethane on both sides of the plastic, and titebond III or Rod Bond on cork to cork. Put it in a cork vise overnight. When shaping w/ diff grits of sandpaper on the drill lathe, I take it all the way down to wet sanding w/ 8000 micromesh...that could be overkill. After cleaning it real good, sometimes I'll use Cork Seal or alittle Tru Oil. Yep, the plastic will shine w/o 'em, if you finish w/ real fine sandpaper. Damnn, that's alot of work, when you can buy premade grips! Are we crazy or whut? Here's 2 pics...one when making the checker ring units, and the other finished. The crude arrow point to cork that isn't glued and isn't part of the grip. Go for it!


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## CoastalBent (Aug 3, 2006)

^^Awesome^^

Love the look of that grip... The checkers are perfect and the shape is just sexy...


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## LIL' RAT RED (Apr 4, 2008)

Goags said:


> Red, this is just how I do it:
> Trace around a cork ring on the plastic sheet, marking the center hole too. Cut the plastic discs out with a dremel...I always overbore the center hole so there's not as much plastic to ream, later. Wipe down both sides w/ denatured alcohol. Using a scotchbrite pad, prep the sides for gluing w/ the Titebond polyurethane. Get all the cork rings and premade checker rings layed out and the mandrel waxed w/ paraffin. I use the polyurethane on both sides of the plastic, and titebond III or Rod Bond on cork to cork. Put it in a cork vise overnight. When shaping w/ diff grits of sandpaper on the drill lathe, I take it all the way down to wet sanding w/ 8000 micromesh...that could be overkill. After cleaning it real good, sometimes I'll use Cork Seal or alittle Tru Oil. Yep, the plastic will shine w/o 'em, if you finish w/ real fine sandpaper. Damnn, that's alot of work, when you can buy premade grips! Are we crazy or whut? Here's 2 pics...one when making the checker ring units, and the other finished. The crude arrow point to cork that isn't glued and isn't part of the grip. Go for it!


Thank you, that is exactly what I needed to know, you have no idea how much this has unclouded my mind. I've been wanting to try this for so long, and I finally made enough profit to buy the stuff I needed. So thanks alot. I'll post some pics of the grips I make.


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