# Need tips on Reaming cork



## SaltwaterAg (Oct 7, 2004)

So for some reason this seems to be the area that I get bogged down. What do you guys use to ream cork. I have 7 St. Croix handle sets that I want to use on a couple rods that I'm making and it is a pain to get them reamed out. The problem I'm having is I originally bought the little 3 reamer kit from Mud Hole and once they wore down that's pretty much it. I bought some of the grit and tried to epoxy more on but that doesn't seem to work. I even started with a piece of blank and tried to put on the grit with Contact Cement but that didn't stick. What do you guys do? I also have a roll of the reamer strip from Mud Hole but I can't find a good way to bond it to the blank. My main issue is I can't put enough time together to figure out a good way so I thought one of the Pros could shed some light.

This new guy needs some help!!!


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## CoastalBent (Aug 3, 2006)

Hey longtime reader, first time poster... I had some of the same issues starting off, and I came up with a pretty good solution. I never use the epoxied grit reamers because in my experience, the grit can come off and get lodged in the cork and then scratch the blank when you slide the grip on. Instead, get a rough grit belt for a belt sander from the hardware store and cut a long 1/4" wide strip with scissors. Then spiral the strip onto a piece of scrap blank leaving about 1/4" gaps between each spiral. I glue mine down with fletch cement from an archery shop, but i'm sure some 5 min epoxy would work as well. The belts are very abrasive and tough, and the grit stays where it's supposed to. I chuck the reamer into a hand drill and can get a perfectly reamed grip in no time. Hope that helps a fellow Ag!!

CoastalBent
Class of '99


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## pg542 (Oct 9, 2006)

I've had good luck with the contact cement and grit material from Flexcoat. Probably the same stuff your'e referring to. Just to be clear the material I mean is the 1/2 " wide grit tape (36 grit? emory cloth) and it's put on old blanks with contact cement in a spiral fashion. works good for me. Batson offers some really nice ready made reamers for this purpose if you don't want to try it again. Scuff up the old blank where you apply the cement and let it dry about 15 mins. before wrapping on the blank. Apply cement to the tape as well. Sounds like your'e on the right track. Good luck,,,Jim


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## Profish00 (May 21, 2004)

FTU sells a nice reamer, it's a 2 foot piece of fishing pole with grit glued to it.


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## Tarpon_tamer (Dec 21, 2006)

I use the dream reamers from Batson. They work awesome and I have yet to have to change the grit out on them. I put them on a cordless drill and they make quick work of any grip I throw at them.

Mike


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## Steve Gardner (Mar 23, 2008)

Dream reamers from Batson!!!!!!!!!!!


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## wingshooter (Feb 4, 2008)

after trying all of the reamers with grit and sand papper and every thing else out there I went to Home depot and bought two rat tail files. One was a medium size and the other a large size. Cut the handle part down, chuck it up in the cordless drill and ream away. If this set up ever wears out it will be about 100 years from now. I have not had any issues with it and takes about two seconds to ream a cork ring. I put a piece of tape on the file at the largest point so I know when to stop. just the way I do it.


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## patfatdaddy (May 29, 2004)

I went to the hardware store and bought a roll of 60 grit emery cloth. I brought it home and glued it to a used blank and glued a piece of steel rod in the big end to chuck it into my drill. Works great and cost me $7 and I have enough emory cloth to build 20 or 25 more. FTU has emory cloth that is a lot coarser but it cost $17 for enough to do one reamer.
Pat


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## Billy 40 (Apr 3, 2008)

The best reamers sold commercially are frm Mudhole, the ones which have the FC Abrasive strip installed, AND an EVA grip to make hand reaming a breeze. These also do not have abrasive all the way to the end of the reamer, which helps you get teh grip material on the reamer to start. 

You bought the wrong ones from MH, close but no cigar. You can make your own with teh abrasive strip, I'm pretty sure there are instructions included with it.


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## SaltwaterAg (Oct 7, 2004)

Thanks for all the tips guys!!! Looks like I am close I just need to put a few more hours of patience in to get this going right. I might even test out the Rat Tail file idea. I guess I tried to adhere the abrasive strip too soon for the Contact Cement to take a good hold. Got about 4-5 hours to work this evening before heading South. I guess it's OK when fishing gets in the way of your rod building!


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## Billy 40 (Apr 3, 2008)

COntact cement needs to be dry before you press teh 2 surfaces together. YOu might want to try using 2 coats on the back of the abrasive strip, one on the blank. Should take no longer than 8-10 minutes for the CC to dry, assuming you are using Weldwood


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## Goags (May 28, 2004)

As Coastalbent said, the loose grit that you can epoxy to a tapered blank is a big scratch waiting to happen! I'm using a set of Forecast reamers now and like em alot. I've about worn out the smallest one and need to apply a new strip. Good info here! Jerry


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