# shooting question???????



## saltwatersensations (Aug 30, 2004)

I have 100 field tips and 100 grain broadheads. I sight my field tip in and then shoot my broadheads and they shoot about six inches lower. What is the problem???


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## Blake Tyler (Mar 21, 2009)

try moving the knock point down just a hair.


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## dc1502 (May 25, 2006)

rest up a 1/16" ................


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## hammerdown (Jan 10, 2009)

Do they shoot a true six inches below, no side to side action?


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## Dark_ale (Oct 10, 2007)

I had the same thing happen to me, I bought G5 strikers and they shoot like my field tips...So I bought some cheap 100grain broadheads at walmart for shooting *****, coyotes etc, but they dont fly like the G5 broadheads or the field tips. If they shoot low but consistant, move your sight.


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## saltwatersensations (Aug 30, 2004)

No side to side action. Just lower. But i thought they were supposed to shoot pretty much the same as the field points?


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## Chunky (Oct 15, 2006)

I say that most of the time your field tips and broadheads won't hit the same place. If you work at adjusting like the guys suggested above you may be able to get them close. 

When I was shooting compound, I just sighted in for my broadheads (assume good arrow flight) and that is all I used durning hunting season.

I would say you would have been lucky if they had been the same. That is a big reason so many guys want to shoot mechanical heads...when they are collasped they fly a lot more like field points and require less tuning.


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## saltwatersensations (Aug 30, 2004)

I just sighted in my broadheads. No biggie. I was just wondering why. Kind of sucks cause if I want to practice with my field tips they will be off now.


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## Chunkn' Charlie (Dec 30, 2004)

The blades on your broad heads act like little wings. If your target is lower, the air will push your broad heads down, resulting in shooting below your target. Also, if you elevate your aim higher than the plane of your arrow, the broad heads will generate lift, resulting in shooting high.


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## bountyhunter (Jul 6, 2005)

chunkn' charlie said:


> The blades on your broad heads act like little wings. If your target is lower, the air will push your broad heads down, resulting in shooting below your target. Also, if you elevate your aim higher than the plane of your arrow, the broad heads will generate lift, resulting in shooting high.


This is only 100% correct if you are shooting straight fletched arrows. If you have helicoiled fletched arrows that puts spin on the arrow during flight the planeing changes or there is none depending on a lot of factors. Only a lot of practice with your setup will determine beyond a shadow of doubt what your broadheads will do. In some cases not all arrows will do the same exact same thing. What this means is the arrow to broadhead tuning is not the same.


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## saltwatersensations (Aug 30, 2004)

I am shooting with blazer vanes. Using Thinderheads. I always like to shoot my broadheads regardless before I hunt. But was put under the assumption that they should be close to the field points. Now I know its not true. I will just keep practicing with the broadheads till season. Thanks for the help


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## Chunkn' Charlie (Dec 30, 2004)

You are absolutely right. This was the only explanation for the 6" drop that I could think of.

TE=bountyhunter;2306118]This is only 100% correct if you are shooting straight fletched arrows. If you have helicoiled fletched arrows that puts spin on the arrow during flight the planeing changes or there is none depending on a lot of factors. Only a lot of practice with your setup will determine beyond a shadow of doubt what your broadheads will do. In some cases not all arrows will do the same exact same thing. What this means is the arrow to broadhead tuning is not the same.[/QUOTE]


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## bountyhunter (Jul 6, 2005)

saltwatersensations said:


> I am shooting with blazer vanes. Using Thinderheads. I always like to shoot my broadheads regardless before I hunt. But was put under the assumption that they should be close to the field points. Now I know its not true. I will just keep practicing with the broadheads till season. Thanks for the help


Are your blazers parallel with the shafts or are they off set slightly to the right or left? You can even helicoil blazers, I do them with a right helicoil when using my compound.


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## Fresh2Salt (May 21, 2004)

Takes a little time but you need to tune your broadheads and field points together. I have a link to a good step by step tuning of your broadheads I will look for. I shoot G5 Montecs and had to tune them.

Found it...Here's the link.
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=539460


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## saltwatersensations (Aug 30, 2004)

bountyhunter said:


> Are your blazers parallel with the shafts or are they off set slightly to the right or left? You can even helicoil blazers, I do them with a right helicoil when using my compound.


Not sure what youre asking, but I bought them factory with blazers on the arrows.


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## LRM (Sep 1, 2004)

You think that the broadhead makers could or would make a field point to mimic the wind shear and wind drag of its broadheads


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## bountyhunter (Jul 6, 2005)

saltwatersensations said:


> Not sure what youre asking, but I bought them factory with blazers on the arrows.


If you bought them factory fletched then they are straight and not helicoiled. What Chunkin Charlie says applies to you for sure.


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## dc1502 (May 25, 2006)

Paper tune , walk back tune , then broadhead tune.........................If you still have deviation it is either form related , arrow spine issue , or lean/ timing issue. I have seen the occasional bow that would not close the gap while broahead tuning . In this case I would paper tune w/ bh's , walk back tune w/ bh's and your rig will be tuned to them as for your fp's thats up to you . It is really nice when you can get both groups to merge , but a bow that has been tuned with broadheads is just as deadly . Personally I only shoot broadheads out of my hunting rig so it is tune for the the heads I shoot . You can get as tech. as you want with this subject , right down to arrow construction , foc calculations blah blah blah .........Just depends on how much time you have to put into it?


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## wampuscat (Jun 30, 2009)

Tune your bow with bare shafts, no fletching, knock point up and down, rest up and down, back and forth, when you get the unfletched arrow to fly strait, with the knock pointing strait back at you, and tight groups, a properly tuned bow will shoot unflethed shafts better that ones with fletching, once your bow is working right, then try to sight in with the sights, using this method all my bows (3 bowtecs) put the broadheads in the same hole as the field tips.


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## Chase4556 (Aug 26, 2008)

whampuscat3 said:


> Tune your bow with bare shafts, no fletching, knock point up and down, rest up and down, back and forth, when you get the unfletched arrow to fly strait, with the knock pointing strait back at you, and tight groups, a properly tuned bow will shoot unflethed shafts better that ones with fletching, once your bow is working right, then try to sight in with the sights, using this method all my bows (3 bowtecs) put the broadheads in the same hole as the field tips.


Really? Wow, I have never heard of that. My bow shoots my G5 strykers and field points into the same hole...but I never would have thought to shoot an unfletched arrow to start tuning.


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## bowedup (Jul 24, 2007)

Bottom line is that you can tune your bow all you want and most fix blades will never hit the same as field tips. Ther are very few that will. Sure some will be close up to 20 and 30 yards , but close isnt enough. Slick tricks are pretty good and the G5s are also ok. You can get some of the low profile fix blades but then you lose your cutting diameter . If u are not against exspandables that will solve that problem. They came along way with there exspandables.


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