# Rage Broadheads



## huntandfishguy63 (Jun 3, 2011)

I have a question to the guys that use Rage Broadheads. Do you need to tune the arrow, or do they fly true ? So there isn't any confusion to what i'm taking about. I use to try to get the blades on the broadhead as closely in line with the vanes as possible. Is this necessary or am i wasting my time ? _I did try the practice point it did fly to the point of aim. So what are your thoughts ?_


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## chrigging (Aug 10, 2012)

No tuning needed, just shootem.......everything dies,great broadhead!


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## Jay Strass (Jan 26, 2011)

I agree, no need to tune them. Great broadhead, I've had no problems with them at all.


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## fishingcowboy (May 19, 2009)

no tuning just killing


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## g2outfitter (Jul 21, 2009)

No tune needed just wear goggles for the blood spray. They are amazing. Only chisel tip or hypodermic 2 blades

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2


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## bw-n-alvin (May 30, 2007)

*No Tuning???*

Mebbe its just me &/or my Hoyt, but from dead center w/ FP's. , at 20 my new rage extreme's hit about 4" high & about 2" left... no biggie, 30 mins of tuning & its dead on again.. but still, had to do it.. I will admit though, they were easier to tune and seem more consistant than my muzzy's were. I cant wait to draw some blood w them!!!!


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## wet dreams (May 21, 2004)

I would spin all of them but that's just me and I don't use Rage, I trust nothing to be straight n true...WW


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## j_ryman05 (Sep 26, 2009)

I started shooting Rage 3 years ago. After shooting a few deer I thought these were the baddest heads made. I guess was basing this off of blood trails and true-flight only. I soon realized you need to carry extra O-rings because one you shoot something the O-ring is usually gone. Once the O-Ring get weak the blades have a tendency to open in your quiever. Not bashing rage just stating the obvious that i experienced but i kept shooting them. Then I started shooting pigs with them..... I shot 5 hogs total with these heads (all shots in the boiler room @ feeder 18-21 yrds) and recovered 1. I had complete pass-throughs on all hogs except one big boar and experienced the same on all shots(decent blood for 10-15 yrds and they would just stop bleeding). After the first two hogs not recovered i did research on shot placment thinking maybe it was me doing something wrong. But I wasnt pigs vitals are low therefore a armpit quarting away shot is considered perfect. Shot 3 more pigs and found only one and the only reason i found it was it was shot in the morning and i seen it fall about 90 yrds away. At this point I decided to try a new broadhead. Im not writing this to make anyone not like rage or switch just filling you in on my experiences. Last year I switched to the NAP Spitfire Maxx and have never looked back. They fly awesome did on with field points and there are no O-Rings. The blood-trail will blow your mind!!!!!! I shot 2 bucks and 5 does (MLD tags) and 3 pigs recovering all of them and believe it or not shot the same three heads without changing a blades. Out of those 10 animals all but 2 fell with-in sight! The two tracking jobs were on a pig and a 10 point. Both were my fault with bad shot placment. The buck was hit high and back, partial lung and liver (yet still great blood trail found him within 90 yards of shot). Pig was quarting away and I hit her far back but still clipped a lung (recovered 70-80 yards from shot). I dont normally post anything on here but it being 2 days till season i figured ide share my experiences. Everyone has there preference its all about what works for you.

Good luck this weekend Fellas!!!! Let the Meat Missiles Fly!!!!!!

Jeremy


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## 04TXAg (Jun 26, 2009)

I decided to try the Rage chisel tips this year, and threw some on the FMJ's I fletched today. I've heard they don't need to be tuned, but I plan to do it anyway. As with all my broadheads, I trued up the shafts and aligned them vertically to the cock feather. If you glue your own inserts, it's really easy.


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## txdukklr (Jun 30, 2013)

well i'm going to give a complicated answer to an easy question but only after i give the easy answer.

yes you should tune your BOW, not necessarily your arrow. Today's arrows tight tolerances, I use HIT (hidden insert tech) and the use of consistently produced plastic vanes I don't put a premium on arrow tuning as it were.

what i do put a premium on is bow tuning, it takes anywhere from an hour to a couple of hours. I've usually been able to get it done in an hour but spent three hours with my creed this last week.

Many folks will shoot an FP and a mechanical and say they hit the same spot good enough. But that same person will complain about the penetration they get. Forgive me for my stupidity but I'm going to talk a little too much about arrows . . . . stuff you know . . . . entertain me for a minute.

a field point arrow leaves the bow and the rear vanes in their rotation stabilize the flight of the arrow. At 20 yards an average shooter (me) can reasonably expect a group the size of a silver dollar, a great shoot will touch arrows all the time. With a field point I can stay at a silver dollar out to around 45 yards, 70 yards is a pie plate.

With that said it's easy to imagine that the most energy is transfered to the broadhead when the end of the arrow, the spot of the energy transfer is following as closesly as is possible to the point of that arrow. Unfortunately a fp with vanes the arrow may actually might not be flying perfectly or spine of arrow might not be right and vanes are not able to correctly stabilize the arrow. All this happening and your still getting good groups with a fp BUT throw a broadhead upfront and now you'll see that your bow is poorly tuned when the BH and FP impact at drastically different spots. Another rudder upfront drastically changes the flight of the arrow and shows the problems with the arrow flight.

"so thats why you shoot a mechanical because then it doesn't matter" well yes and no. a mechanical like a fp allows you to not worry about the fact that the energy transfer isn't perfect . . . . but it affects the way the energy is pushing the arrow and the way it transfers the energy into the broadhead at penetration.

so my more complicated answer is no don't tune the arrow . . yes tune the bow. I do a walk back and broadhead tune . . . . like i said it take about a dedicated hour and i usually like to have a copy of the easton tuning guide so I can use it's charts. It's easy and you will see that you will blow monster holes through animals with the rage. If an arrow goes in but doesn't come out all the time it's hard to have a blood trail when it's plugged. I've shot 30+ animals with the rage and only had one issue that was caused by poor placement. Great head that will open them up as good as any other right out of the box.

That said tune your bow and you'll see em perform even better.


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## wet dreams (May 21, 2004)

I thought a tuned bow was a gimme here, I agree on the arrow leaving the hole plugged and THAT is the reason I don't shoot expandables, you see to many instances of deer n hogs running off with a arrow hang out, watch any show where they shoot expandables and see how many pass-thru's you see. To me if it fails once that's enough, and I do tune all my heads to THE arrow its on, but once again 'that's just me'...WW


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