# 2011 ram 2500 6.7L cooling system issues



## george.maness86 (May 29, 2012)

My cooling system normally ran close around 201 or so and didn't fluctuate much. Now it will heat up to 208 or 210 then cool down to 197 and constantly do that the whole time. I have changed the tstat (got from dodge), water pump, completely flushed and refilled with dodge coolant and bled air completely out. The fan clutch does not completely disengage when it is first started and cold where you could stop it spinning while running. I also unplugged the fan clutch and ran it and it did the same thing just a little faster. It acts like one of the times it disengaged it didn't cycle the whole way and got stuck or something. I am kind of thinking the fan clutch is my problem just want to verify before I go spend that kind of money. Anybody got any ideas? I have also ran it with the rad cap off until the tstat functioned a few times and there was not one bubble that came out. Coolant reservoir is working properly as well.[/QUOTE]


----------



## cobrayakker (Mar 23, 2006)

Run it. Thermostats are probably 180 or 190. if its not getting any hotter than 210 no problem. Most likely this cold air making it fluctuate more. My 2012 moves around a bit to.


----------



## george.maness86 (May 29, 2012)

Thanks. I know cold will mess with it but it is moving quickly and it never did that to me before and I have been working in OK and NM through all the cold so it has seen some and not acted like this yet. While it will hear up then cool down it will get above 213 if you are not being easy.


----------



## Knot Kidding (Jan 7, 2009)

Mine started doing a simmilar thing a while back and got worse . Wound up being a failing egr cooler (common failure - watch closely ) wound up cracking head due to only water I had to fill it up was around 32 degrees. New egr cooler (cost only) from Dodge was $1400.00. KEEP AN EYE ON IT!


----------



## george.maness86 (May 29, 2012)

EGR and DPF deleted. I have changed everything but the head gasket. No bubbles in rad or loosing coolant or coolant in the oil. Only thing it can be is head gasket now. I am thinking the head studs stretched and hasn't broke the head gasket yet so gonna back off and re torque the head and see what happens a. Thanks for the reply.


----------



## Newbomb Turk (Sep 16, 2005)

Get a hydrocarbon test done on radiator to confirm/eliminate combustion leaks.
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-75500-Combustion-Leak-Detector/dp/B0007ZDRUI


----------



## dhingle (Feb 10, 2006)

My brother just had to replace a head gasket. Was doing same thing. He has dpf and egr deleted. He also was running quite a bit of boost. He learned that the egr system also handles overflow boost pressure and when removed it finds weak spot and vents. He found the expensive way that there is a valve you can buy to vent the pressure that would have helped avoid it. Cost about 2300.00 at dealership.


----------



## george.maness86 (May 29, 2012)

Tearing it down to change the head gasket and install ARP studs.


----------



## george.maness86 (May 29, 2012)

With ARP head studs you have to trim the tab in the back of the rocker box. 
















Got it done. Now to bleed the air out of the cooling system. I have the H&S EGR and cooler delete which plugs the coolant pipe. I will be using a step drill to punch a hole in the bracket holding the plug in and drilling and taping a fitting to run a hydraulic hose to around the #3 cylinder where the plug was put during the delete as well as installing a tee in the line to run it back to the #6 cylinder to keep the circulation flowing to help with bleeding and coolant circulation.


----------



## shooter308 (Jul 31, 2013)

if it is still on the truck the EGR cooler can cause the same problem if not pull the head and if it were the fan clutch it would have a fault code.


----------



## george.maness86 (May 29, 2012)

EGR, cooler, DPF anything that makes the EPA happy is gone and was deleted at 6000. I now have 54000. The only thing is the cooler delete just plugs the coolant line. Was talking with a buddy of mine and we decided that could be improved by drilling and tapping fittings to run the line back to the block like when it ran through the cooler but without it there. I am installing a tee as well to run it in the block at the number 6 as well so it will circulate back to #3 and 6 to help bleed air faster and keep coolant running through everything instead of having a stagnant line. It will also allow the use of the high point bleeder plug again as it will actually bleed the block as well. Already pulled the head and replaced the gasket. Will be o-ringing the head soon as well.


----------



## goodwood (Mar 30, 2009)

no head work?


----------



## george.maness86 (May 29, 2012)

goodwood said:


> no head work?


Nope just cleaned it up. I will be doing more later like stiffer springs and such but I ran out of money and time.


----------



## goodwood (Mar 30, 2009)

nice spray pattern on your pistons.


----------

