# Scooter Project



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

I got this boat from a fellow 2cooler and have been slowly putting it together off and on for the last 5 months or so.
The scooter is 12' from transom then 28ish" of sponsons that being said I figured a 25hp would be able to push it. My thinking it weighs about 500 (boat only). Initially I had a 11pitch prop and it would not break over to plane, just got a 9pitch and still the same problem. Any ideas on what I might be missing?





































Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## cxjcherokec (Feb 20, 2014)

Is that all the trim you have on it? Any way to get an RPM on that motor? Looks like it needs more negative trim. Get some pics of the hull out of water to see where it's located in the tunnel


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

That is just how it was sitting at the time, it tucks under there.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

Not sure how to hook a tach up at this point.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## On The Hook (Feb 24, 2009)

Hook_It said:


> That is just how it was sitting at the time, it tucks under there.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The motor is way too low, the whole purpose of the tunnel is to allow the motor to run at a higher height so you can run shallower. Probably needs transom wedges for more negative trim. It looks to be balanced well. How does it look with full fuel, ice chest, driver and gear? Is the engine developing full power? The engine will create a bunch of drag being mounted that low. 25 hp should be adequate, but not a speed demon.

Looks like a fun project.


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

I will raise it and see how that does. I wanted to see how it was going to do before the gel coat and some aluminum. Hadn't loaded it up yet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

Another pic for clarity. It is just a little trimmed out. Almost parallel to what I imagine running will be.









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Smackdaddy53 (Nov 4, 2011)

With that big if a tunnel you can probably raise that motor where the centerline of the nosecone is even with the top of the tunnel. You may need some transom wedges to get that motor to tuck under some. Get your weight up toward the bow so it doesn't plow from having too much weight on the stern. Some static trim tabs may help it jump up as well and get the bow down. Your tunnel should throw water pretty high with that much setback as well. A transom mounted low water pickup may be another option to look into if you get it all set up and it planes but you can't hold water pressure.


----------



## Smackdaddy53 (Nov 4, 2011)

Here is a rear view of mine with the motor trimmed flat. The prop is above the bottom of the hull and I can junp up and run with the jackplate at the highest setting no problem. 









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jorgepease (Apr 14, 2011)

Even with the extra drag you should have been able to get up on plane. I think the prop is your problem. Can you feel it spinning on you, I think you need some cupping on that prop!


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

I have tested an over pitched prop before and that is what it acts like, except that then I would get passed it and take off. Can you add cupping to aluminum?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## On The Hook (Feb 24, 2009)

You'll want a stainless prop, keep the aluminum for backup. You may want to try a different prop design as well. Call bauman and see what he recommends. Is that motor a 20" or 25"? It looks like maybe it could be 25". You would want a 20", or will need to add additional height to the transom.

Here is what a 25" motor mounted on a scooter looks like. Even with the additional height, the motor may not be positioned optimally.


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

Yea stainless is the way to go, I was just hoping I could figure out close to the right one before I spent the extra cash for ss.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

Also 20" motor, 20" transom 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## On The Hook (Feb 24, 2009)

Hook_It said:


> Also 20" motor, 20" transom
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Looking at mercury's web site, it looks like they make this motor in 15" and 20". I'd bet that the 15" would be just about perfect for your rig. When you get yours positioned high enough, the center of gravity will be substantial higher than it is now. Yours will work, but a lower center of gravity is usually better especially on a small boat.

Here is an example of where I'd expect to see your cavitation plate in relation to the waterline. Notice how much higher this one is than yours. It is actually just above the water line with the boat at rest. This motor was likely left in the trimmed up position where it runs while on plane, and would be tucked in or trimmed down for better hole shot.


----------



## jorgepease (Apr 14, 2011)

Hook_It said:


> I have tested an over pitched prop before and that is what it acts like, except that then I would get passed it and take off. Can you add cupping to aluminum?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


When I started trying to prop my home built scooter I had the same problems and cupping solved everything. Just remember that it eats rpm so your going to want to go with the smaller pitch. Call Baumann and see it they can cup that Aluminum prop, pretty sure they can and then figure out how your going to get a temporary tach or hook up to computer to see rpm. Then get the stainless .. or not, on such a small motor I think Aluminum might be okay as long as you can put cupping on it.


----------



## Smackdaddy53 (Nov 4, 2011)

I'm pretty sure an aluminum prop will spin faster because it is lighter so even if you can get the correct cup and pitch you will have to get a stainless with less cup and/or pitch to compensate. Leave all that to the prop gurus. Honestly, I would ditch the aluminum prop and go to a prop shop and get a few stainless test props and go run them and take notes on holeshot and rpm so you know you are buying the right one. I don't know where you are located but I highly recommend Jack Foreman at Crossroads Propeller in Port Lavaca. He will give you two or three props and is good enough to usually only give you two to test and the first one he put on your motor is usually the right one.


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

Alright, I have raised it as much as possible without buying anything.























Trimmed out just a little, level with plane of water.








Tucked in all the way.

Still unable to get on plane, but the props that I have do show almost no cupping, so I am sending the 11p to get cupped tomoro. I used the mercury prop selector on the interweb and overestimated the weight by 100-200lbs to try to accommodate for the tunnel. It said 11ish...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

Located in bayou vista. Once I am sure it is a prop issue I will be going to a prop guru, at this point I'm not positive that there isn't some design flaw with the hull that is making this more difficult than it could be.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jorgepease (Apr 14, 2011)

It's most definitely the prop, don't sweat it! 

I had the exact same thing happen to me and my brain went in the same direction- "Got to be a hull problem!!" 

Send it to Baumann or somebody you know is good, Foreman or Hood or whoever for some cup, probably less than $50 and be amazed! The compression plate will also help a lot but for smaller motors I don't know what is available, you may have to fab your own.


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

Hope your right, thanks! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## On The Hook (Feb 24, 2009)

Looks good, and the lower seems like it is pretty close to where you would want it. Have you checked the throttle linkage to see if you're getting full throttle? Any weight you can move forward will be helpful. 

Something isn't right, either throttle being limited, or the prop. My buddy runs a wide heavy semi-v aluminum John boat with a 20 or 25, and it does fine. It's almost guaranteed to be the prop that is holding you back. Fibertex makes the shawing compression plate if you want to add one. You will need the small size. Prop style can make huge differences even with the same diameter and pitch. 

Keep at it and you will get everything worked out. It will be worth the effort.


----------



## dbarham (Aug 13, 2005)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Here is a rear view of mine with the motor trimmed flat. The prop is above the bottom of the hull and I can junp up and run with the jackplate at the highest setting no problem.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


LouieB built prop?

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## Smackdaddy53 (Nov 4, 2011)

dbarham said:


> LouieB built prop?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


Jack Foreman


----------



## dbarham (Aug 13, 2005)

Nice!

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

Had some cup added to the 9p seemed like it grabbed a little better in the beginning then still blew out. I took a video thinking it might help. The motor is still in breakin, so I don't want to sit in the throttle too long.




More cup? More blades?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

Bad video, I am aware...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

Vent tunnel?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jorgepease (Apr 14, 2011)

You need more cup that prop is not grabbing at all, how much was added? 

Baumann has single cup, you lose 200 rpm, double cup, you lose 300 rpm.

post a closeup of the prop


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

Baumann added the cup that it has, he said he could add some more but seemed concerned that it would not even break to plane. It is a big tunnel for a 25hp, I think, just wonder if venting would help...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jorgepease (Apr 14, 2011)

I'd be surprised if the tunnel can develop that much vacuum at such slow speed. You may have to go with more cup and less pitch. I'd check with Baumann and show them the video. A plate will also help keep prop from pulling air from the surface


----------



## texasislandboy (Apr 28, 2012)

Might want to lower the motor for a test run.


----------



## Bird (May 10, 2005)

texasislandboy said:


> Might want to lower the motor for a test run.


Took the words right out of my mouth. I had the same issue with a skiff I was tinkering with. Turns out, the motor was too high. Right before the boat breaks over onto plane the transom is displacing the max amount of water and the prop ventilates. I say lower it as much as you can at first to see if you can get it up on top. Secondly, you need a compression plate on that motor. I think one of the issues is that the sponsons are floating the boat very high in the water and instead of the transom squatting, which would sink the prop deeper, it just holds it up on top. This is a good thing when running but maybe not so much right now. You also might try putting some weight in the back of the boat for a test run, like a battery.

If I remember, Jorge Pease had and issue with his boat being too light initially because he used composite laminates instead of wood and glass like the original plans. His boat runs skinny, has big sponsons and is seriously light weight.


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

Thanks for the ideas. Who makes small hp cavitation plates?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## KillerShrimp (Jan 12, 2005)

I'm not sure what cup he put on your prop but I run a 3 blade power tech with a gulf coast cup from Baumann and I have a cav plate. When it's done right my prop will not blow out but it will also take all that 25 has to spin it. i run a mowdy scooter.


----------



## KillerShrimp (Jan 12, 2005)

Pic


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

KillerShrimp said:


> I'm not sure what cup he put on your prop but I run a 3 blade power tech with a gulf coast cup from Baumann and I have a cav plate. When it's done right my prop will not blow out but it will also take all that 25 has to spin it. i run a mowdy scooter.


What pitch?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## KillerShrimp (Jan 12, 2005)

I believe it's a 10.


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Bird (May 10, 2005)

Hook_It said:


> Thanks for the ideas. Who makes small hp cavitation plates?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Transport boats makes a very good one.


----------



## On The Hook (Feb 24, 2009)

http://stiffypushpoles.com/shawwing-cavitation-plates


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

Added some more cup to the prop and lowered the motor to the original position. Almost broke over to plane, but with the way the boat sits now most of the weight is in the back, once complete the weight should move forward a significant amount, this should help the situation. Took the boat back to Tony (exclusive fiberglass) in Baytown to finish the hatches, gel coat, and a few other things. Going to find a cav plate while he finishes then find the right prop once I get it back.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## talkshow (Aug 11, 2006)

Remember also that a stainless prop is going to weigh a little more also ... Not sure if it will matter with a small prop but it did with a 50hp I had.


----------



## Sgrem (Oct 5, 2005)

Just devils advocate here but....

.......why would you spend one more dollar on a boat that won't plane..... 

If it's a weight issue move balance points and start over. Hatches and gelcoat are useless on a boat that won't plane out.


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

You sound like my wife, joking.

Yea, that is why I tested it at that stage, before gelcoat since that is a little pricey. Was hoping it would go better but it was pretty close and I think with a few changes it will work out fine. If nothing else get a bigger motor. Too far along to quit now.
Could be wrong, time will tell. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Salty Dog (Jan 29, 2005)

You are probably way underpowered. You probably need a 40-50 hp motor.


----------



## TWick (Jan 8, 2016)

Salty Dog said:


> You are probably way underpowered. You probably need a 40-50 hp motor.


I was thinking the same thing


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

Initially I was looking for something bigger, but found the 25 for a good deal so I went with it. I am hoping for 25 mph, if it does 20 I will be ok with that. If it doesn't get resolved there will be a motor for sale. No worries.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jorgepease (Apr 14, 2011)

When I look back at your first photos of it sitting in the water, it looks like it should scoot. 500 lbs seems a bit heavy for a 12' but it still should plane. Somebody else mentioned negative trim. In the photo of the boat in the water the motor is trimmed up to straight. That's going to keep the prop spinning, it would be easy to add some wedges and get that motor tucked in more.


----------



## KillerShrimp (Jan 12, 2005)

He has a weight problem. All the weight is in the back. That's not gonna work. You need to distribute the weight evenly. Also taking in consideration your weight when your operating. Once that's resolved it will be fine.


----------



## letsgofishbro (Feb 8, 2012)

That's the hull I gave you. I was gonna 50-60 hp it


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

That's it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

I'm having a little trouble finding the hardware to secure a casting platform. What should I get? Flush mount and quick disconnect.

Thanks


----------



## On The Hook (Feb 24, 2009)

Did you get the planning issue so worked out? What was the solution?


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

Still throwing money at it hoping when I get it back I can figure that out. I'm thinking a cavitation plate is going to get me there, but haven't had a chance to line it out yet. Fiberglass guy got a little busy and this boat seems to be a chore, the paint that was on it, was just that (paint), so he could not gel coat over it and had to sand it all off... I know that it is done right, so I'm good with it.


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

Getting closer to getting it back.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

Picking her up tomorrow.

























Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## TheRooster (Jul 15, 2012)

Man I would assume you need a cav plate, havin the most awesome prop from bauman won't mean nothing if you can't keep the water around the prop, even though you have a tunnel area the size or don kinds Afro throwing water at it you still need to direct the water to the prop to keep it grabbing, I would def research crookslist or even make a post on the classifieds here for one and slap it on, I think you'd be amazed at how much it'll help keep your prop from blowing out


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

Cav plate installed, see what happens tomorrow.

























Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jorgepease (Apr 14, 2011)

Looking good. One thing on that cav plate, it's better than nothing but you will do better with one that extends forward of the LU. You lose a lot of water by the time it gets back to where yours starts. Also the longer ones prevent the prop from pulling air down from the surface on hole shot. It should still help though, good luck


----------



## Red3Fish (Jun 4, 2004)

"He has a weight problem."

I am with KillerShrimp. Try a couple of bags of sand near the bow,....worth a try! And cheap. Or a 100# kid. Sometimes you need some weight in the bow, to "break you over" onto plane. 

On my aluminum boat, I put a long hose on my gas tank and put it in the bow. Just that 45# made a big difference, when by myself...fine with another person in bow. That being said, I am not too impressed with the torque of a 4 stroker vs a 2 stroke....plus the weight.

We had scooters (~150#) and a 15 hp (two stroke) would push them 22 mph with two on them? Stock props. We had an inset motor though, more or less sponsons on the rear, and started off nearly level....no tunnel.

Later
R3F


----------



## gotmuddy (Dec 19, 2013)

25hp pushing a 400-500lb boat is pretty heavy IMO.


----------



## Sgrem (Oct 5, 2005)

Any pics of what this hull used to be before it was cut down ? I have a possible candidate to do a similar scooter.


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

sgrem said:


> Any pics of what this hull used to be before it was cut down ? I have a possible candidate to do a similar scooter.


No, I have no idea what it even use to be before it was modified into the scooter. We could tell that the tunnel was not original, and the sponsons were added, but that is about all. No hull id anywhere.

Here is how she sits now, see what she does in a few hours.


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

.









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gunsmoke11 (Apr 30, 2012)

My scooter is prob 375 plus me and my dad 190 200 and i can get on step like nothing running about 27mph. I have the25 efi 4 stroke mercury. Props makes a world of difference. Mine is home made with a 5ft long tunnel 4inch deep and 12 inch wide. Im still running the stock aluminum prop and got lucky i didn't have to change it but ive been reading your post for a while now and im almost wondering if you should have got a long shaft and worked your way up on the plate. Thats what we did. Had the motor way low, got up no prob and just kept going higher until we started getting capitation on the hole shot. She will run in less then 6 inch easy and no issues with getting up. Just throwing that out there.


----------



## gunsmoke11 (Apr 30, 2012)

For a few that asked for more pics i dont want to take over nor start a new thread. Here are the pics requested. Last one is of the bottom not sanded or finished.


----------



## jorgepease (Apr 14, 2011)

That flat bottom will plane off a lot easier than his mod v. Any news on how it went?


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

No worries, but I was more interested in where the motor/prop set in the tunnel. Thanks.

Ended up getting called in to work and wasn't able to give it a go. On my last night now, so should see what happens tomorrow.


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

No luck today. It was set at the highest position on the jackplate, so I brought it back and lowered it a few inches, see what happens tomorrow. 

Tried as pictured just previous, then filled the ice chest with water, to put weight forward (didn't seem to change much). Water is hitting below where the front of the cav plate is positioned but on the intake. I'm thinking where I have dropped it to will be right at the front of the cav plate, maybe not grab any air, and get on f******** plane.

Wish me luck!


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

Dang thing looks good, just needs to move a little faster!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jorgepease (Apr 14, 2011)

Did she get on plane?


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

No 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jorgepease (Apr 14, 2011)

Sorry to hear that ... What's the next step? Tabs? More Power?


----------



## Bird (May 10, 2005)

Well it sure looks good. I still say drop the motor all the way down.


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

Dropped it about three inches yesterday evening and tried it again today. Was able to plane, but the prop still slipped a lot. Probably cruised about 20mph but if I gave it anymore juice it would just spin. It also would hiccup while cruising at a steady speed, guess the prop slipping or grabbing better for just a second... Think it is time for a stainless prop.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jorgepease (Apr 14, 2011)

Are those new props? Could it be the hub spinning on you? That's what that intermittent hiccup sounds like. 

Congrats on getting on plane though, that means you just gotta dial her in.


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

Yea new props. I'm going to try the other one I have tomorrow. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Bird (May 10, 2005)

Congrats on getting her on top. I'd like to check this boat out. PM me, I'm in Tiki.


----------



## texasislandboy (Apr 28, 2012)

Sure is a sweet looking ride.


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

*Update*

Alright, the initial prop that I was able to get on plane with was a aluminum 9.9x9 (w/ baumann gulf coast cup). I ordered a 10x10 stainless (wanting to be able to turn a bigger pitch to get some more speed) and took it in to add some cup. I took the aluminum prop as a reference and ask them to put a little more cup since the aluminum was still blowing out. Then I put this ss prop on and went for a test drive. The prop did not blow out and I was able to get to 17mph (this was by gps, not any faster than the aluminum that I had guessed 20). With the stainless prop I was not able to get full RPMs, if I had to guess I would say 4k out of the 6k that I should get.

First thought was I ask them to add too much cup, then maybe I should have stayed with the 9p.

Now thinking testing props with my other boat, I tested props 18, 19, 21, 23, and 24p, the top end with all the props was pretty similar, just my RPMs varied.

Plan: I ordered a tach, should be here soon, once get the tach i'm going to vent the tunnel and see how that changes the performance. With that I will either be happy or take the prop back in for some mods.


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

*tunnel*

The tunnel on this boat has a pretty steep lead into the tunnel, it does not ease into it by any means. I think that it is making a lot of suction and venting should help on the top end. Fingers Crossed.


----------



## jorgepease (Apr 14, 2011)

The tach is going to help a lot, guessing at it is tough.


----------



## gotmuddy (Dec 19, 2013)

Once get used to the way a motor sounds I can normally tell as little as a 100rpm difference. The ear can really be useful in situations like this. I think you have a few variables working against you. One the hull is really a bit heavy for the motor and the tunnel might be hurting rather than helping right now.


----------



## gotmuddy (Dec 19, 2013)

After looking at the tunnel I think the turbulence made by the beginning of it is a big part of the issue.


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

Got it going a little better, hadn't vented it yet... Still kicking that around.

















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## yellowskeeter (Jul 18, 2008)

Toooo cool!


----------



## Sgrem (Oct 5, 2005)

Now that's great dude! What did you change??


----------



## Bird (May 10, 2005)

Looking good. How did it do in the turns? Did the prop bite through the turns or did it cavitate?


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

Didn't really change much, just been playing with height on the plate and seeing what works best as far as running it. It is still a little finicky running, must be tucked all the way to take off, blows out for a while before getting on top, then once on top trim it out. Hadn't made any real tight turns, but tough to turn if it is not trimmed out. Feels like it wants to drop off plane the tighter I turn.


----------



## jorgepease (Apr 14, 2011)

It's not a hull with a lot of planing surface, it's fairly heavy, and you have that tunnel right in the middle but at least you're running skinny. I think Tabs might help you most and move some weight forward if possible.

Do you feel sucked down to the surface, you can tell if it breaks free every now and then in a chop. If not then vacuum is not the problem. 

Sent you an email on the tunnel design. I agree, that abrupt incline, I have it too, goes against every article I ever read on reducing turbulence.


----------



## Sgrem (Oct 5, 2005)

The benefit of tunnel venting is only at high speed and only about 10% of what you normally run. That hull won't see the benefits of venting because it is not fast and already has planing problems. If you just must test and see for yourself then run a piece of pvc with a valve taped into the corner of your tunnel that runs toward the front with a bend toward the front of the tunnel that will allow it to pull air ...

But venting will exaggerate Alllllllll the other issues you are having.

You will also need a full hydraulic jack plate to vent because you will dump all the water out of your tunnel requiring you to drop the motor down to keep water to your pump.

You also now have dumped the water out of the tunnel losing that amount of planing surface meaning you will need trim tabs to gain that planing surface resistance back.

I think your tunnel is way way too big and tall.


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

I hear ya, since working thru some of the kinks I don't feel the need to vent anymore, once I on plane and trimmed out it feels loose, not sucked down. The plan now is to flip the boat over, fill the tunnel with foam, and cut out a different shaped tunnel. Then glass over and cross fingers. Haven't worked thru all the specifics yet, but Tony the glass guy made it sound like easy work. 

What will be the best way to cut the foam?
I have seen on youtube where people rig up some bare wire to a battery charger but I'm not sure that will work for my purpose...


----------



## Sgrem (Oct 5, 2005)

Sawzall....
Wall board saw....
Grinder would be dusty but would work great...


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

New tunnel, see how it works hopefully this week.

















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

Glassed in.

















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## texasislandboy (Apr 28, 2012)

Looks good. Did you foam the void on the tunnel?


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

texasislandboy said:


> Looks good. Did you foam the void on the tunnel?


Not yet, going to test it as is, if it is good then drill a couple holes and fill the void. Tunnel is about 3.5' long so this makes the tunnel 3.5" tall, which seems to be the most common ratio as far as what I read.


----------



## jorgepease (Apr 14, 2011)

Just by looking, seems like it would work better, here's hoping for the best ) If it does work, and you find yourself being pulled down by vacuum, that void will be perfect for your vent.


----------



## bwguardian (Aug 30, 2005)

I think you are on the right track by decreasing the height of that tunnel. However, I would keep the radius shape and consider extending the tunnel out beyond the transom edge back to the lower unit...see attached...


----------



## fishshallow (Feb 2, 2006)

bwguardian I'm not sure where you got that pic but I want some trim tabs like that! Do you know who makes them?


----------



## patwilson (Jan 13, 2006)

I believe Transport sells tabs called Step-N-Trim. They are similar. You may try to call them.



fishshallow said:


> bwguardian I'm not sure where you got that pic but I want some trim tabs like that! Do you know who makes them?


----------



## bwguardian (Aug 30, 2005)

fishshallow said:


> bwguardian I'm not sure where you got that pic but I want some trim tabs like that! Do you know who makes them?


*fishallow*, that is a pic of my skinny water boat. It had the STEP-N-TRIM tabs on it as mentioned above...but they are made of aluminum and don't hold up, and can even damage your hull if you don't stay on top of the electrolysis. I found these online from a guy in Mississippi that parts boats and has some neat vintage stuff.


----------



## fishshallow (Feb 2, 2006)

Thanks guys. Ill probably just go with the step n trims since those were from a part out, probably wont be lucky enough to find some.


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

Tested it out today and it is much better, little to no blow out and gained a few mph.

















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jorgepease (Apr 14, 2011)

That's Great!


----------



## Sgrem (Oct 5, 2005)

Man glad to hear its working better for ya.


----------



## fishingjordan (Jan 20, 2015)

Really did come from just a bare hull shell. Haha sweet boat man i was the one you talked to at louis

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk


----------



## Shallow80 (Mar 18, 2006)

Great thread and very cool boat! A tunnel extension, smart tabs and setting the motor back 4 inches will improve that little boat's performance.


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

For Sale.
Like New.
$11,500

3six1 2nine0 8two86


----------



## billsandducks (Jul 20, 2016)

Man your really turned that boat around from the first pic of it in my garage


----------



## Hook_It (Aug 11, 2012)

Yup, it's a really cool boat, just can't find the time for two boats.


----------

