# Radiant barrier paint



## TexnMedic (May 26, 2010)

I bought two kits of Heatbloc Ultra for the house. I know it's not technically a radiant "barrier" but there is no way I can do the foil in my attic. My research showed that the Heatbloc Ultra performs better than the rest. I have been trying to make my 1967 house more energy efficient and this is the next step. Any tips? I plan to spray the rafters and both eves on the sides. I have the sprayer. Gotta get the mask etc. Anyone done this before? Do I need to keep the dogs outside? Two person job? Thanks for any help. Plan to get this done Thursday and blow the insulation in Saturday. Attic will be done after that. Already replaced most of my attic ducts with the new R6 flex and tried to seal everything up. 

I will be using a Titan 640 sprayer. It has a .17 tip. Heatblocs web site says between a .17 to .21. Will the .17 be fine or should I bump it up? I plan on buying an extension for the gun. Should I get a 24" or 30"?


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## Old Whaler (Sep 6, 2005)

I did my house. I would get a .19 tip and a 30" extension. Make sure you remove the filters in the gun and pump so the aluminum flakes can pass. It's a one person job and very easy. If your garage doors face west, spray them too. This stuff works great on metal. 

To make a radiant barrier work right you need ventilation. Make sure you have plenty of ridge and soffitt vents. Don't blow the insulation over the soffitts.


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## TexnMedic (May 26, 2010)

Thanks OW. I will plan on doing that. I will do my best not to blow the insulation over the soffits. I am replacing all my old soffit with the hardisoffit that's continuous. I already did most of the front of the house but held off on the rest until I got the insulation in for that reason alone. All in all I'm dropping about 2k into the attic(radiant barrier, flex ducts, insulation) so I hope it pays off. EAS gave me a quote of $3600 for radiant barrier and 5" insulation. I'll be below that with 15-20" insulation and buying the new Titan sprayer. Way below.


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## TexnMedic (May 26, 2010)

OW thanks for the tips. Got this done over the weekend. Well most of it. Got a 24" extension due to my low roof and the 519 tip. I bought a brand new Titan 640ix sprayer. Got about 2/3 of the job done one day is two or so hours. Touched up some spots the next day over 30 minutes. Yesterday primed the sprayer and sprayed for about 5 minutes and my new sprayer wouldnt turn on. Called Titan and they told me to check the fuse. Replaced fuse and turned on machine. Made a horrendous sound and motor started smoking after two seconds. Shut machine off and called Titan. They said I probably needed a new motor and to bring it in because of motor lifetime warranty. So that blows! What really blows is that I have paint still in the hose and machine that I cant get out which will is a latex. So im fuming. Titan people were good and helped out but ****! $1500 bucks and get 5 gallons through it. Gonna take it in Friday when I am off. Plus I mixed a $350 bucket of radiant barrier that says to only mix as much as you use in one day. Wondering if it will be usable in a week or so? Won't be doning anymore painting since I blew in 20" of insulation everywhere before the cold front hit. Doing my friends house with it next.

Thanks on the tip on removing the filters. No where did it state to do this in my instructions. Made total sense when you said so.


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## CAPT. DORADO (May 28, 2010)

where can i buy radiant barrier and whats the best to use.... i am building a house and am at the point i want to spray radiant barrier before sheetrock.... any help would be awsome..

thanks Chris


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## Old Whaler (Sep 6, 2005)

If your're building new, use tech-shield or polar ply roof deck with the foil already on it. Much easier this way. You can also get a house wrap now that is a radiant barrier that you put over your sheathing


CAPT. DORADO said:


> where can i buy radiant barrier and whats the best to use.... i am building a house and am at the point i want to spray radiant barrier before sheetrock.... any help would be awsome..
> 
> thanks Chris


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## CAPT. DORADO (May 28, 2010)

lol yeah all that sounds good... the deal is i am 22 years old and me and an older friend that i have who used to be a home builder has helped me mainly ive done all the work and didnt use the plywood with the shielding already on it and im kicking myself in the butt now... and i used the tyvex house wrap never herd of the house wrap wish i would have known earlier, im already all dried in and have ac in the attic just and insulation in the walls just no sheetrock until i do radient barrier


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## TexnMedic (May 26, 2010)

From my research the HeatBloc Ultra is the best out there. I got mine on Ebay. I also blew in 20" of the pink stuff insulation. Last year my electricity bills were never less than $500 during the summer. Last month mine was $118 and the month before that it was $90. According to Reliants little projected bill mine will be $140 this month. A/C is set at 75 during the day and 70 at night. Nothing else has changed compared to last year other than the new R6 ducts. A/C unit is the same. My house is 2207 square feet for reference and my unit is 10 years old.


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## CAPT. DORADO (May 28, 2010)

I appreciate your input. I like what I herd lol and am planning on buying mine off eBay, and doing it myself


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## HouTexs (Jul 20, 2010)

I work for a distributor in town and we sell the Heatbloc Ultra. Shoot me a pm if you are interested. I'm sure I can do better than the $350 that was previously mentioned.

Chris


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## TIMBOv2 (Mar 18, 2010)

What kind of coverage do you get out of five gallons? I want to do my whole garage and was just wondering how much i need.
Thanks,
Tv2


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## Quepos1 (Jan 21, 2011)

I have a question please. My home has two vaulted ceilings, one which is Sheetrock so that could easily be replaced but the living room ceiling is tongue and grove plank. How would one place radiant barrier on it?

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


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## KIKO (Oct 24, 2006)

Paint is not good because there is heat conductivity and heat that still comes in the attic.. Best thing to do is use foil radiant barrier on the trusses to create an air pocket. The cold air enters thru the soffits and pushes the hot air out the exhaust roof vents. Ridge vents are a best practice for high air flow. 
Hardie perforated soffits are not efficient at all. They are thick and its only 5 sq inches of NFA(net free air per linear ft) of vent. The holes are not compliant 1/4" diameter when codes call for 1/8" or less to prevent bug intrusions. If the holes are bigger they must be screened. Plus they are expensive. There are other options that have greater air flow. For example we use a regular hardie panel and cut it in two sections and install a Tamlyn continous 3" or 4" wide PVC soffit vent that will allow 12.7" and 18.8" NFA per ft.


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