# Fuji Sk2 Reel Seat Help



## SaltyTodd (Apr 24, 2007)

I have built three split seat Fuji SK2s and 2 out of three have the bottom winding check pushing up from the bottom seat. i thought the check/cap was pushing up, but I now know while fishing the reel loosens up and when i tighten the seat down it pushes the lower seat down on the EVA grip away from the winding check. i rebuilt the last one and used more epoxy, but it happened again. i am using the gray arbors they provide and using custom turned eva handle. Anyone had this happen that can advise on how to prevent from happening? anyone have any videos or instructions on correct installation for these reel seats?

Thank you in advance for any input. 

Todd


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## hookemkirk (Mar 7, 2014)

It's better to use masking tape arbors. And also I learned that a paste is better than epoxy when glueing those reel seats also. I had the same problem a few months ago , this is what I tried and haven't had any problems with it at all. If you find any videos let me know I would like to see what others are doing also. 


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## katjim00 (Jan 8, 2009)

I have heard of that happening. I don't use their grey arbors. I use the flexcoat or batson arbors. I also use paste epoxy to glue the assembly to the blank. I usually use a liquid though to glue the arbor into the seat. Have not had any come loose yet knock on wood.

Overtightening I have been told can lead to them popping free. Not sure if that is the case but it is what I have heard.


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## BigWill (Aug 26, 2004)

I agree with Jim. I use flexcoat arbors or tape and paste epoxy. Haven't had any issues so far


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## cfulbright (Jun 24, 2009)

Did you sand the blank and sand the inside of the reel seat before installing? And then clean each with DN.

The arbors, no mater if its tape, grey or batsons do almost nothing for holding, they center the reel seat to the rod and take up space so there is not so much glue...with that being said did the arbors go almost all the way to each side of the seat? I cut my arbors down where there is a 1/4"ish on each side for a good blank to seat area.

Over tightening will cause it too, there just is not much contact point with the SK2, Iv had them come loose on me when i did a hidden thread grip because there was so much area to grab a hold of to tighten.


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## SaltyTodd (Apr 24, 2007)

I did not sand the blank or inside the seat before installing nor clean with DN. I think i did levave the arbors the same lenght as what was provided (Gray arbor).

What steps are preferred to make the best bond to the blank. Tape, Paste Epoxy, sanding?, larger arbor, cork vs Eva?

i am going to cut off the handle and rebuild the bottom seat and grips (for the second time). Love to have some input and suggestions.


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## katjim00 (Jan 8, 2009)

Always lightly scuff the blank where the seat goes. If using an exposed blank seat don't scuff the area that will be seen. As for inside the seat, if I remember right the SK has ridges inside there so not much can be done. But I always clean the inside with DNA to get rid of any mold release agent that might be left in there.

Personally I don't like tape but many do. I feel is it heavy and has to be covered with too much adhesive to seal it off. But it has been used for years with great results.

I like rodbond u40 regular cure paste. I make less mess with it and feel it fills in voids better. I also use flex coat liquid adhesive regular cure. That is mostly for arbors to seats and grips. To me the liquid soaks into the pores of the arbors and thus tightens it up.

Its all going to be trial and error for you to determine what you like to use. Prep work is the most important part of the equation though.


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## pg542 (Oct 9, 2006)

katjim00 said:


> Always lightly scuff the blank where the seat goes. If using an exposed blank seat don't scuff the area that will be seen. As for inside the seat, if I remember right the SK has ridges inside there so not much can be done. But I always clean the inside with DNA to get rid of any mold release agent that might be left in there.
> 
> Personally I don't like tape but many do. I feel is it heavy and has to be covered with too much adhesive to seal it off. But it has been used for years with great results.
> 
> ...


..... yes to all of the above!...For optimum adhesion with your epoxy, do a search for a "water break free" scuff finish. http://www.rodbuilding.org/library/waterfree.html


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## [email protected] (Mar 7, 2008)

I use epoxy to glue arbors to barrel and seat. I then ream to size. Scuff blank and glue with paste. I think paste is the key most builders i talk with who have this problem used epoxy.


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## CroakerJO (Mar 16, 2011)

Split seats can be subject to extreme pressure between parts when a reel is tightened down. I solved this problem by using thread ramps rather than winding checks. A solid ramp of thread, well saturated with finish and cured properly, at the back and/or front of the SK2's grips will totally eliminate any movement.


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## pg542 (Oct 9, 2006)

CroakerJO said:


> Split seats can be subject to extreme pressure between parts when a reel is tightened down. I solved this problem by using thread ramps rather than winding checks. A solid ramp of thread, well saturated with finish and cured properly, at the back and/or front of the SK2's grips will totally eliminate any movement.


Good idea. That should keep the fore and aft movement in check. Pun completely intended. Do you ramp between the grips also?


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## cfulbright (Jun 24, 2009)

SaltyTodd said:


> I did not sand the blank or inside the seat before installing nor clean with DN. I think i did levave the arbors the same lenght as what was provided (Gray arbor).
> 
> What steps are preferred to make the best bond to the blank. Tape, Paste Epoxy, sanding?, larger arbor, cork vs Eva?
> 
> i am going to cut off the handle and rebuild the bottom seat and grips (for the second time). Love to have some input and suggestions.


If you left the arbor stock it would be ok for the barrel if you did not cut the barrel down( I always cut mine down to 1.35") I think the trigger arbor needs to be cut down a little.

I sand with 60grit paper, so there is big deep scratches for the epoxy to bond to. I take a flat screw driver and sand the inside groves of the seat/barrel, and a dowel rod wrapped in sandpaper also. Flush with DN.

Paste and arbors for me.


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## Fishsurfer (Dec 14, 2014)

I have not had this problem. I use a paste epoxy. I mount the arbor (that it comes with), the grip, the WCS and the reel seat all together at one time. Sand blank between marked area of seat and grip with 300 to 400 grit sandpaper. Use reamer sparingly on inside of reel seat to rough up a little. Coat blank with epoxy 360 degrees in sanded area. Slide grip on while turning, wipe off access epoxy. Apply epoxy to blank again, slide arbor on while turning, smear access of epoxy on arbor. Fill area between arbor and grip with paste epoxy to make a seal. Put paste in front of arbor and slide on reel seat, fill area inside that is in front of arbor to make a seal then slide on the WCS. Orientate seat and grip. Wipe off with dry paper towel removing as much of access epoxy as possible then wet a paper towel with DA and clean any remaining excessive epoxy. You may have to repeat this with a fresh paper towel a few times. I usually have to sand the arbor down a little in order to make room for the WCS and epoxy dams. On the lock nut cylinder I will use 3 pieces of foam arbor cut so that it will have 1/8" gaps in between and at each end. These gaps will be filled with epoxy when mounting to create dams. To me these dams are necessary to prevent water from entering and extreme holding power if the foam cores crush a little from the blank flexing. I like foam over tape due to weight savings, but i do not want the foam to be able to get wet. That's how I do it but it may be a little over kill for some of you.


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## d4rdbuilder (Jan 19, 2007)

pg542 said:


> ..... yes to all of the above!...For optimum adhesion with your epoxy, do a search for a "water break free" scuff finish. http://www.rodbuilding.org/library/waterfree.html


Ditto!!!!


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