# Deer Stand Rev. 1



## micklitz (Apr 1, 2011)

I built my first deer stand 1.5 yrs. ago in a hurry. I got a late start on deer season and built one in a few days. I built it sturdy, but as with anything in life hind-sight is 20/20. My biggest regret was not painting before I put it up. 

When the action was slow I would come up with ideas on how to make the stand better. By better, I mean more practical for hunting as well as more comfortable to be in. My theory is that the more comfortable and user-friendly the stand is, the more time I will spend in it, and "There is no substitute for time in the stand."

It took 12hrs from when I put the stand up until I shot a very nice 10pt, and 14 hrs after that my friend shot a nice 9pt out of it. This past season, my wife took up hunting. We hunted every weekend except for 3 starting opening Bow weekend. My big takeaways from this season are: need more room, need to conceal movement, need it to be more sound-proof. Here are a few pics of the 1st stand.


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## micklitz (Apr 1, 2011)

I have referrenced 2cool before for help on projects, so I thought that this would be a good oppurtunity to give back a little.

Here are some of the intial materials I picked up to get a good start as well as my workspace.


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## micklitz (Apr 1, 2011)

*Getting Started*

I use 2x4's for the floor and 2x2's for the rest. My dad built a stand when I was younger out of all 2x4's and it was almost unmovable.

It might be overkill, but I prefer to use various metal brackets throughout the construction. The 2x2's are more than adequate, but the brackets make it solid.

Due to having more time, I am going to use the paint/primer as I am building to try to get everything covered.

I used the 2x2 brackets on the corners for rigidity and to help construct the walls with 1 person. Make sure you attach them before joining the 2x4's together.


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## micklitz (Apr 1, 2011)

This morning I added the floor supports in the corner. Then I started on the first wall. I used a square and scrap to tack the corner posts in place before a made them final with corner braces.

When building a stand by yourself, *I have found that a finishing nailgun is very helpful as a third and fourth hand. It is similar to a tack weld!*


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## micklitz (Apr 1, 2011)

*Dog sitting/marathon*

Outside of the basic dimensional constraints, I do not follow a strict plan. I use scrap pieces as braces where I feel it is needed.

Often, I will add more braces for support of the skin (usually plywood). When using thinner materials it helps to have more "studs" to screw it to.

This is as far as I got before I had to leave for Galveston. I am dog sitting for my parents tonight, and my wife is running a marathon in the morning. I hope to be back at it tommorrow afternoon.


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## subsea78 (Sep 12, 2007)

I am going to just piggie back here on this thread. I just recently built a deer stand and had the same thing in mind. I wanted room big stand but trying to keep it light. I built a 4' X 8' and put it 8' in the air. I framed mine out in 2"X2" to help keep the weight down. I also built mine to be able to transport in 6 sections. I had in mind mind what I wanted and just ran with it and it got a little expensive but I built it to last I think. So after I built my base I started framing out the walls. If I could do it over again I would have used a 2"X4" to tie the two sheets of plywood together on the walls. The 2x2's where cutting it close. I can't remember what the thickness was on the plywood but it was pretty thin less than 1/4". I put the plywood on the walls and let it hang over the floor 3" and that's where I screwed the walls to the floor. Once I got a few walls built I decide to insulate the stand. Then trim it out the inside with birch paneling 5mill thick. I wanted to try to keep it as weather proof & sound proof as I could. So I kept the wood cut outs and bought some door jam pieces not sure what they are called. I trimmed out the wood windows with it as seen in the pictures. I trimmed off all of the screw tips to keep from cutting me as I reached out to open/close the windows. Then on the inside I went to Lowes and bought some aluminum channel and made widow tracks. I used 3/8" plexi glass for my windows. I stapled velcro to the walls and stuck the other side of velcro on the window for a easy up and down movement on the windows. i was trying to avoid using wire or anything on the windows. Once I got the stand built I just broke it down into 6 sections which made it easy to transport. Once I got to the lease I flipped the base off of the trailer and put 3 walls on and fastened them together and slide the roof section in place and installed the 4th wall. By building it to be disassembled it really made it easy to move and put together at the lease. I also drilled a 2" hole through the floor to install a pee hole, I was tired of pee bottles left in the stands. I buried a 5 gallon bucket with some bull rock in it then drilled a hole in the top of the bucket and ran my pipe through the floor and put a bead of cock around the pipe. I put a plastic ball valve on the pipe and keep and oil funnel in the stand to make it easy to aim into if you catch my drift. To do all over I would make a couple of changes but the stand turned out really nice. Hope this might help someone with ideas..

I am sure I missed some things but the pictures gives you an idea.


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## micklitz (Apr 1, 2011)

Very nice! 

Have you had a chance to hunt out of it yet?

How much difference in sound have you noticed?

My hunting buddy has a 3 yr old boy and I am trying to make it as sound proof as possible.


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## CHARLIE (Jun 2, 2004)

Wow waaay above me. Last one looks very similiar to mine but mine comes apart and can be transported and re constructed anywhere. Yalls are just great..


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## micklitz (Apr 1, 2011)

I am going back and forth between using carpet or rigid insulation.

This is primarily for sound proofing...Any input would be appreciated.


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## subsea78 (Sep 12, 2007)

a few more pictures. 

It is like being in a recording studio lol. On a cold morning 30 degrees I could leave my plexi glass down and turn on a propane heater on low and hunt in a t-shirt no problem I did it. When I wanted to shoot I would just slide which ever window I wanted to shoot out of up and stick the velcro grab my gun and bam!!!


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## micklitz (Apr 1, 2011)

I like the pee hole idea, but I think that I am going to build a porch. 

I have done the bottle thing for years, and I am ready for that to be over. 

My problem with the built in urinal is that it would still be awkward if you were hunting with your sister or friends wife. Maybe it was due to my current stand being small, but I still think that it would be weird in a larger one too. 

I plan on setting 4x4 posts with concrete and making a deck with a larger area than my stand. The extra area would be my porch. All ideas at this point.


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## Slightly Dangerous (May 21, 2004)

You wouldn't be German would you?


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## subsea78 (Sep 12, 2007)

I can see your point on the urinal. I mean we are adults right, lol I was on a center console boat with 4 women for the mermaid tournament and had to take a dump in a 5 gallon bucket lol.. After climbing that hill I can deal with the urinal lol... But I do see your point..


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## micklitz (Apr 1, 2011)

Also, I think that I will use Red Cedar fence pickets turned sideways as my siding instead of plywood this time.

I plan on caulking all of the seams where I butt them up against eachother, but I think that it will be better for long term durability and sound dampening. I also think that the Cedar will help with insects and with covering human scent.

Any thoughts?


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## micklitz (Apr 1, 2011)

Slightly Dangerous said:


> You wouldn't be German would you?


Yes sir!


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## micklitz (Apr 1, 2011)

subsea78 said:


> I can see your point on the urinal. I mean we are adults right, lol I was on a center console boat with 4 women for the mermaid tournament and had to take a dump in a 5 gallon bucket lol.. After climbing that hill I can deal with the urinal lol... But I do see your point..


Been there done that on a boat, but on a boat you have the vastness of the open bay around you. Inside that blind just feels more up close and personal to me.


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## Really (Jan 8, 2013)

Always planned to bury a 5 gallon bucket full of rocks and holes drilled in it with a tube and funnel in the stand that way the scent was hidden considered it s mini septic


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## captainharvey (Mar 1, 2011)

When I was young, dad put carpet on all the walls, floor and shelves. I think it was for sound and insulation? Had plexiglass windows as well. Oh the memories. 
Lately we hunt from 4X4 blinds with open windows. 
Y'all's look very nice and comfortable


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## FISH TAILS (Jan 17, 2005)

Sweet looking blind!!


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## Law Dog (Jul 27, 2010)

Great looking blind, congrats!


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## SSST (Jun 9, 2011)

Really said:


> Always planned to bury a 5 gallon bucket full of rocks and holes drilled in it with a tube and funnel in the stand that way the scent was hidden considered it s mini septic


This is the set-up my blind has in it, it was on the lease already so i didn't build it but thought it was pretty neat. To me one of the main things is closing in the corners, that way if you need to move around you can hide in a corner and do so.


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## micklitz (Apr 1, 2011)

SSST said:


> This is the set-up my blind has in it, it was on the lease already so i didn't build it but thought it was pretty neat. To me one of the main things is closing in the corners, that way if you need to move around you can hide in a corner and do so.


I am definetly doing individual windows this time. I like subsea 78's approach


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## sotol buster (Oct 7, 2007)

micklitz said:


> I like the pee hole idea, but I think that I am going to build a porch.
> 
> I have done the bottle thing for years, and I am ready for that to be over.
> 
> ...


He said he had a cock bead and a ball valve... after seeing that I doubt anything else would be awkward!!!


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## skniper (Oct 31, 2008)

subsea-

Nice. We build a very similar blind, we use old office carpet to quiet down the wood floor and walls.

One comment to add, I like all window movement to be internal so no need for external moving parts or arms reaching outside the blind, less movement, less noise. 
Also use a similar up/down sliding plexiglass window held up by varying height hooks...easy n quiet. We have a couple of these boxes under some scrub oaks and painted to match, you have to know its there to find it.


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## micklitz (Apr 1, 2011)

I got back to work on the stand Sunday afternoon. Please feel free to ask questions or provide any advice.

Today's progress.


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## micklitz (Apr 1, 2011)

*Perspective*

The last for today.

The cooler was added for perspective.


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## micklitz (Apr 1, 2011)

*Help determining door width.*

How wide of a door do I need to ensure that I will be able to fit office chairs through?

I plan on buying them from Goodwill so the size may vary. I would like to fail safe, but still be reasonable.
:help:


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## skniper (Oct 31, 2008)

Dang man, I'm just wondering if your going with the corian countertops or springing for the granite. :bounce:


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## micklitz (Apr 1, 2011)

skniper said:


> Dang man, I'm just wondering if your going with the corian countertops or springing for the granite. :bounce:


:biggrin:, I was thinking White Oak. It just gives the feeling of "America F!*@ Yeah!"


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## micklitz (Apr 1, 2011)

*A few steps back*

I decided today that I wanted to use red cedar for the floor. This decision forced me to add more bracing to the floor, which consumed much of my time this evening. I am waiting until tomorrow to borrow a neighbors table saw before I put the the last two boards in.

I am thinking of making the side windows 28" wide and the front two 18" wide. Do you think these dimensions are good?

Please feel free to provide your input good or bad.


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## wet dreams (May 21, 2004)

Dude thats nice BUT ya gonna need a forklift to get it out of your garage AND a cherry picker to raise on site....WW


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## jtburf (May 26, 2004)

Your going to regret that flooring choice, Cedar is sofe and each board will squeek and pop when you roll a chair around.

Why are you not using treated wood?

John


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## micklitz (Apr 1, 2011)

jtburf said:


> Your going to regret that flooring choice, Cedar is sofe and each board will squeek and pop when you roll a chair around.
> 
> Why are you not using treated wood?
> 
> John


Valid points indeed

I used liberal amounts of wood glue on all of the bracing to prevent this.

I am not using treated wood, because I plan on: installing a good roof, caulking all of the cracks/seams, and will apply paint/water sealer to everything.

My take on it is that your house is not made out of treated lumber and lasts for 50+ years. If I build the stand similar to a house is it necessary?

Still looking for input on window and door width please...


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## micklitz (Apr 1, 2011)

wet dreams said:


> Dude thats nice BUT ya gonna need a forklift to get it out of your garage AND a cherry picker to raise on site....WW


So far it is very easy for me to slide it around by myself. I am not looking forward to moving it, but once it is in place it will not be moved again.


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## fin&feather (Jun 24, 2008)

Looks good.
Thinking If you paint your cut offs you could prob sell them to therapist for pattern blocks and get reimbursed on your expenses lol.


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## jtburf (May 26, 2004)

micklitz said:


> Valid points indeed
> 
> I used liberal amounts of wood glue on all of the bracing to prevent this.
> 
> ...


Make the door 32" wide at least. and if your shooting downward make your windows a little lower than normal and as wide as possibble.

John


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## diveback (Jan 29, 2007)

Wait a minute I can not believe you put that lonestar light in such a dangerous situation, under a saw blade!! I should file LSL abuse charges


by the way nice stand!!!!!!!!


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## micklitz (Apr 1, 2011)

diveback said:


> Wait a minute I can not believe you put that lonestar light in such a dangerous situation, under a saw blade!! I should file LSL abuse charges


That saw is no match for a Lonestar light!


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## micklitz (Apr 1, 2011)

jtburf said:


> Make the door 32" wide at least. and if your shooting downward make your windows a little lower than normal and as wide as possibble.
> 
> John


Thanks for the help!


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## ROBOWADER (May 22, 2004)

How you gonna get that to the woods? It looks like it is going to weigh a ton by the time you are done with it.


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## troutslayer (Feb 7, 2006)

Couple of sugestions that I have gained over past exp......

use plexiglass for windows....keeps bugs and cold air out....
32" door is fine for getting chairs in and out.....even smaller will work due to the way you can slip a chair back and forth as it goes in....

to the windows that fold out.....deer notice stands....and when windows are closed one day and open the next.....they notice

one thing you can do to help noise is carpet
one thing yuo can do to prevent rot...is thompsons water seal....then paint
and another hint......roof it when you get there.....we use roll roofing and it tends to get damaged in transport

good luck
Ken


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## micklitz (Apr 1, 2011)

troutslayer said:


> Couple of sugestions that I have gained over past exp......
> 
> use plexiglass for windows....keeps bugs and cold air out....
> 32" door is fine for getting chairs in and out.....even smaller will work due to the way you can slip a chair back and forth as it goes in....
> ...


What exactly is "roll" roofing?


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## dbarham (Aug 13, 2005)

micklitz said:


> What exactly is "roll" roofing?


Long strips of shingle on a roll


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## wet dreams (May 21, 2004)

dbarham said:


> Long strips of shingle on a roll


correct one LONGGGGG shingle on a roll....


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## micklitz (Apr 1, 2011)

Thank y'all for your input and humor. Keep it coming!

I got a late start this evening, but I feel as though I made some decent progress. I took the advice that was given, and ended up with my front two windows at 20" long. I made the side windows 28" long, and all are 10" tall. These lengths still give me some room to move in the corners hidden from view. I think that I will make the door 30" wide. I hope to frame out some of the back tomorrow. Again, thanks for the help.


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## redduck (Jul 26, 2006)

make the roof overhang about six inches. This keeps rain from running down walls and into windows. I use metal roof.


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## aggieanglr (Oct 1, 2007)

Don't know if it works or not but I have heard something about painting the bottom and roof overhang light blue. It is supposed to deter yellow jackets and other biting bugs from taking up residence in these places.


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## micklitz (Apr 1, 2011)

redduck said:


> make the roof overhang about six inches. This keeps rain from running down walls and into windows. I use metal roof.


Thanks, I think I will use tin, but I cannot do that until I get it to the farm. I am limited by the height of the garage door at the moment.



aggieanglr said:


> Don't know if it works or not but I have heard something about painting the bottom and roof overhang light blue. It is supposed to deter yellow jackets and other biting bugs from taking up residence in these places.


I have heard this too, but I have not tried it either. I might give it a try unless someone says that it is an old wives-tale.


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## Waymore (Jul 6, 2011)

No offense intended, but I've been in construction all my life and I've never seen anything like that! Maybe you should apply for a patent! Good hunting...Waymore


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## micklitz (Apr 1, 2011)

Waymore said:


> No offense intended, but I've been in construction all my life and I've never seen anything like that! Maybe you should apply for a patent! Good hunting...Waymore


:spineyes: None taken. I do not have the tools to make nice furniture nor the space to store them. The tools I do have allow me to have fun making a deer stand though.


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## misbhavn (Nov 19, 2010)

Looks good so far. A little overkill on all the bracing though, IMHO. To each his own, though. Proceed Sir!


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## micklitz (Apr 1, 2011)

I was able to make some more progress this evening. I frame the door out with a 30" opening. I am not sure if it is worth putting a small window on the back wall or not???

The 2x2 going across the middle is temporary.

*I have never used a water sealer before... Will the wood accept the sealant better if I sand it first or should I apply it then sand?*


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## jtburf (May 26, 2004)

If you are planning to use cedar fence pickets , how are you going to seal between all those fence pickets?

They will shrink 1/2" when dry and swell shut when it rains.

A 3/4" plywood floor and 1/2" plywood walls would make it a lot easier...

John


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## wet dreams (May 21, 2004)

jtburf said:


> If you are planning to use cedar fence pickets , how are you going to seal between all those fence pickets?
> 
> They will shrink 1/2" when dry and swell shut when it rains.
> 
> ...


Maybe 'bat n board' ??? I think he's a homebuilder by trade..that thang will withstand a 'Cat' 4


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## micklitz (Apr 1, 2011)

dbarham said:


> Long strips of shingle on a roll





wet dreams said:


> correct one LONGGGGG shingle on a roll....





jtburf said:


> If you are planning to use cedar fence pickets , how are you going to seal between all those fence pickets?
> 
> They will shrink 1/2" when dry and swell shut when it rains.
> 
> ...


This site has some details on Red cedar.
http://www.homedecks.com/cedar.php

I have the cedar set out to allow it to equalize in moisture content. I will apply a sealer to both sides, which will stabilize the moisture content. I also intend on caulking all of my seams.


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## chumy (Jul 13, 2012)

You must have gotten a miter saw for christmas looking at all the angles


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## micklitz (Apr 1, 2011)

*Red Cedar info*

This site has everything you would want to know about Red Cedar.

http://www.wrcla.org/cedarspecs/designershandbook/physical_properties.htm

Another one I found

http://www.arcwoodandtimbers.com/wood/western-red-cedar/

The wood of Western Red Cedar has a very low coefficient of expansion so that it does not shrink, swell, or warp significantly, even when subjected to changing degrees of temperature or moisture. Western Red Cedar is unique among all softwood species in that it is naturally dimensionally stable, having the ability to season well in position. Many builders prefer to cut, nail and fasten Western Red Cedar in the "green" or unseasoned condition, allowing it to air dry during construction.

It has prime insulating qualities, and a pleasing aromatic odor that is repellent to moths, insects, and vermin. Every fiber is saturated with a natural preservative oil that renders it virtually immune to decay and gives it extreme durability without artificial preservatives. It is not necessary to paint cedar to preserve its surface, as it does not deteriorate appreciably even under severe climate changes.

Western Red Cedar is particularly well suited for home building. It is unsurpassed for all exterior uses. The high heartwood content and even-grained texture lends itself to durability, workability and stability. Western Red Cedar is widely used for large size timbers both interior and exterior design in "Mission Style" and "Mountain Style" homes. It has incredible insulating qualities, making it ideal for sheathing, cladding/siding, which help keep a home cool in the summer and warm in the winter.


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## chumy (Jul 13, 2012)

micklitz said:


> This site has everything you would want to know about Red Cedar.
> 
> http://www.wrcla.org/cedarspecs/designershandbook/physical_properties.htm
> 
> ...


Put on some tyvek insulation or particle board on all 4 sides before you put on all those cedar pickets. It will save you time/money on caulking alone?


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## micklitz (Apr 1, 2011)

chumy said:


> Put on some tyvek insulation or particle board on all 4 sides before you put on all those cedar pickets. It will save you time/money on caulking alone?


Thanks, I have been throwing this idea around in my head. The only thing holding me back is whether or not I close in the inside wall. If I end up not putting up underlayment on the inside (similar to Subsea78) I do not want to be looking at the Tyvek.


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## fishfeeder (Jan 29, 2009)

*What a chair!*

Some neat info here and 2cool pics as well, but I gotta ask....what the heck kinda chair is that with a ball for a seat????
Good building to you, sir and try the LS Bock, its pretty dang good!


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## micklitz (Apr 1, 2011)

fishfeeder said:


> Some neat info here and 2cool pics as well, but I gotta ask....what the heck kinda chair is that with a ball for a seat????
> Good building to you, sir and try the LS Bock, its pretty dang good!


:rotfl:
It is some gimmicky b.s. my wife bought for her desk at work. It is supposed to "help your core." As you can see, it lasted 5 minutes at her desk. She will not take it to work, and I am not allowed to throw it away. It is very light and makes a good work chair.

I have been meaning to give it a try. Maybe I will get some for the Superbowl!


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## micklitz (Apr 1, 2011)

I got the door opening framed out finally. I did not have clamps so I ended up using a rope to help me out. 

Since then, I have been sanding. In the 2nd and 3rd picture, you can see the difference in appearance between sanded and un-sanded cedar.

I moved the stand into the driveway this evening so that I could get out of the garage for a change. It was nice to be able to use the sander without the vacuum hose attached.


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## micklitz (Apr 1, 2011)

*Almost Done!*

My progress slowed down on the stand for awhile, but I got my [email protected]# in gear recently. Deer season will be here before we know it!!!


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## wicked wades (Jul 28, 2009)

I like the way you used the metal to close off window gap. By the way Hwy Dept. is looking for a missing HWY 290 SIGN. YOU WOULDN'T HAPPEN TO KNOW WHERE ONE MIGHT BE WOULD YOU????


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## micklitz (Apr 1, 2011)

The metal around the window was Subsea78's deer stand not mine. Also, the 290 road sign appeared in his photos as well. I too like his use of metal flashing though...


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## micklitz (Apr 1, 2011)

*Coyote*

Also, while I was working on the stand last Friday, I looked out the back of the shop and saw this fellow in the middle of the cows. It was 11 O'clock and 98 degrees in the shade. I was shocked that he was out in the open.


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## micklitz (Apr 1, 2011)

Finally done




























Sent from somewhere in Texas


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## Fishin' Soldier (Dec 25, 2007)

Looks like a suite at the ramada inn! Nice work.


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## Jeff SATX (Jan 18, 2011)

are you going to fill the gaps from the cedar planks? looks great, i'm sure it was fun to build


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## RubenZamora (Oct 19, 2005)

Ya I would seal in those gaps between cedar. But thats me. I hate coming into a dark blind that could have any type of bugs in it LOL.


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## CHARLIE (Jun 2, 2004)

I was just wondering after watching all the excellent work and detail why you didnt notch out on the flooring so it would go all the way over the outside 2X4 of the floor. On the long run you go all the way on the flat side you stop and leave a crack.Very nice job and great stand by the way. Glad you wont have to be moving it later.Just noticed hmmm ya know shingles have a bad habit of leaking when laying almost flat. Hope you dont have that problem. I saw the felt underneath. Again great job.


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## micklitz (Apr 1, 2011)

Thanks for all of the support.

I am going to fill the gaps with caulk again. I think a combination of it flexing while moving and sitting in the Sun for a week caused some more gaps to appear.

I had left the last board out at the end in case I need to add support for the door. It is in now. I closed the gaps at the edges from underneath with wood and caulk. 

The roof has a 5 degree pitch, and I was unaware that the shingles might not work well. I will keep an eye on it. And yes Charlie, I did use felt and flashing so I hope that it won't leak.


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## CHARLIE (Jun 2, 2004)

Again awesome stand.


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## peckerwood (Jun 9, 2012)

Is that PVC pipe what I think it's for?


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