# Outdoor Patio Bar



## Rodmaster66 (Mar 19, 2007)

I am wanting to add an outside bar area under my patio area in the back, I know there are several companies that will build this and design it, just looking for recommendations from you DIY 2coolers, by the way I am just wanting a bar area maybe in an L shape, will not need sink, frig or anything like that, thanks in advance, Chris.


----------



## jtburf (May 26, 2004)

Upload a picture of your existing slab and we can toss ideas out.

John


----------



## Rodmaster66 (Mar 19, 2007)

I am having the patio build soon, once the HOA okays this, and the patio is completed with the extra concrete, I will put a picture up, thanks.


----------



## Part Timer (Jul 2, 2012)

Did you ever get it built? looking to do something myself also, and did you use a company or DIY?


----------



## BertS (May 21, 2004)

HOA can even tell you what you can put in your backyard?


----------



## chaco (Dec 24, 2010)

I almost was about to start a new thread, and then found this one and hoped for an answer. But it has not progressed vary far, so I am tacking on to it. I can post a new thread if this doesn't work to pull in some good advice. 

I too am planning to add a simple counter under a patio. It will be against an outside wall of a house, and inside that wall is a laundry room with a sink. Thus, I have hot and cold water, a drain, and a natural gas line readily available. I already have lighting in the patio ceiling over the area. This ought to be a fairly straight-forward project, as I see it. I do not wasn't to build in a grill for this little counter.

I do plan to add a sink, and a two-burner gas cooker, since it will be easy to get to the existing lines to support those items. There is already an existing power outlet on the outside wall, which it may get moved, but that isn't an issue either. I am not looking for a lot of drawers or other complicated storage, but some will naturally result form this project. 

My questions are about how to frame this up? Is steel framing material the best way to go? What material would be good for the vertical panels and or door fronts? 

Oh, the patio surface is all done in pavers. 

Luckily for me, the HOA is not interested at all in what i put in the backyard, unless it is visible from the street. That concern as expressed above won't be a problem in my case.

Many thanks.


----------



## GT11 (Jan 1, 2013)

I finishd a remodel on my lake house (posted here in the DIY forum) and left an area for an "L" shaped outdoor kitchen. I am doing my design over Christmas and plan to built it starting in January. I will probably post the build in my remodel thread so keep an eye out for it. Here is my plan:

Build the frame out of metal studs (this is how most are built), then cover the frame with concrete backer board. I looked at stucco vs brick vs stone and have decided to finish it in stone veneer. All of the above materials are available at Home Depot. I plan to install a granite coutertop, have a built in grill, sink and frig. For access to the bottom side, I plan to buy the stainless outdoor kitchen access doors that run $150 to $200 a set. I placed water and sewer lines in the proper place when I did the remodel and plan to use Propane for the grill.

My patio is pavers also and I plan to place the kitchen on top of the pavers.


----------



## mercenarymedic2105 (Jun 8, 2011)

chaco said:


> I almost was about to start a new thread, and then found this one and hoped for an answer. But it has not progressed vary far, so I am tacking on to it. I can post a new thread if this doesn't work to pull in some good advice.
> 
> I too am planning to add a simple counter under a patio. It will be against an outside wall of a house, and inside that wall is a laundry room with a sink. Thus, I have hot and cold water, a drain, and a natural gas line readily available. I already have lighting in the patio ceiling over the area. This ought to be a fairly straight-forward project, as I see it. I do not wasn't to build in a grill for this little counter.
> 
> ...


If you're still looking for an answer, here you go (at least in IMO after building outdoor kitchens for a couple years). Steel framing with hardie backer is the way to go. Light but strong, easy to cover with tile, stucco, whatever you choose, and not a lot of special tools needed.

What we figured out worked best was to do our layout on the ground (measured, squared, etc) then chalkline it and use hairspray on the chalklines to keep them intact throughout the build. Frame the bottom and build up from there. If you're using any appliances, cabinets, etc make sure you at minimum have the framed opening dimensions so that you can make those openings as you build instead of trying to go back and rework it after the fact.


----------



## chaco (Dec 24, 2010)

I very much appreciate this construction description. I understand the approach you recommend and plan to use it.

If I can extend the conversation, here are two immediate questions I have not answered in my assorted research:

Q1: The outdoor counter will go against an existing outdoor wall, which is under a covered patio area. It is currently a horizontal, hardy-plank siding, covered wall. How would you handle the interface of the back of the new counter cabinetwork to that existing outdoor wall?

Q2: The pavers that are now in place have a very slight slope away from the house, intended to assure that water does not ever collect against the house. Therefore, would you shim under the front edge of the counter to yield a level counter surface? What type material would be best for such shimming? 

Looking forward to any replies - thanks!
~


----------



## mercenarymedic2105 (Jun 8, 2011)

chaco said:


> I very much appreciate this construction description. I understand the approach you recommend and plan to use it.
> 
> If I can extend the conversation, here are two immediate questions I have not answered in my assorted research:
> 
> ...


Answers in red above, hope that helps.


----------



## shade (Aug 12, 2010)

*outdoor patio*

medic2105 - to do our layout on the ground (measured, squared, etc) then chalkline it and use hairspray on the chalklines to keep them intact throughout the build.

Can you explain what you mean here.


----------



## mercenarymedic2105 (Jun 8, 2011)

shade said:


> medic2105 - to do our layout on the ground (measured, squared, etc) then chalkline it and use hairspray on the chalklines to keep them intact throughout the build.
> 
> Can you explain what you mean here.


Sure. Basically we would figure out on paper what the design was going to be ("L", "Square C", Straight) and the dimensions, then verify it with the homeowner/buyer. We would then take that layout and dimensions and measure/draw/square it on the concrete back at the shop using a sharpie. Typically this would consist of marking out the corners with the sharpie, then we would use a chalkline to tie those corners together making full lines. After the chalklines were down on the concrete and we were satisfied, we would use cheap aerosol hairspray to spray the chalklines so that they wouldn't get wiped up by us working around them. We would use the chalkline layout to build the top and bottom frames (adjusting the top frame as needed for appliance frame outs) and then we would add the studs to ties the top and bottom frames together.

The nice thing was that most of the ones we were building were very similar, so once we had some layouts done on the shop floor we were able to use them more than once and just make small tweaks as needed.


----------



## chaco (Dec 24, 2010)

mercenarymedic2105 said:


> Answers in red above, hope that helps.


Yes, good input. The layout method sounds good. I do have in mind a sink, and this whole unit will all go against the exterior wall. 
So, now: 
I think that I need to have a short vertical splash "rail" along the back to keep water from going over that direction. So, if I don't attach he counter to the home's wall, then I will attach that splash containment rail only to the rearmost top edge of the counter. I think I see it all working out that way.


----------



## mercenarymedic2105 (Jun 8, 2011)

chaco said:


> Yes, good input. The layout method sounds good. I do have in mind a sink, and this whole unit will all go against the exterior wall.
> So, now:
> I think that I need to have a short vertical splash "rail" along the back to keep water from going over that direction. So, if I don't attach he counter to the home's wall, then I will attach that splash containment rail only to the rearmost top edge of the counter. I think I see it all working out that way.


Easiest way would be to make the back studs taller by whatever height you want your backsplash, say 6 inches. So, for example, your front studs would be 30 inches and rear studs would be 36. Make sense?


----------



## chaco (Dec 24, 2010)

mercenarymedic2105 said:


> Easiest way would be to make the back studs taller by whatever height you want your backsplash, say 6 inches. So, for example, your front studs would be 30 inches and rear studs would be 36. Make sense?


It does! Excellent approach. Again, I really appreciate this experienced advice you are willing to share.

Jim
,


----------



## mercenarymedic2105 (Jun 8, 2011)

chaco said:


> It does! Excellent approach. Again, I really appreciate this experienced advice you are willing to share.
> 
> Jim
> ,


No worries, man. I don't get to do near as much work like that as I used to, so at least if I can pass on some experience I can live vicariously through someone else. If I'm around and close to someone I can usually be coaxed into getting my hands dirty for a few adult beverages :rotfl:


----------



## CLKELLEY78 (Feb 12, 2008)

I'm doing a outdoor living area as well, but framed into the roof line. If doing outdoor island go to www.BBQcoach.com they have kits that seem pretty easy to install your self. My project just got put on hold until the oilfield comes back around. Good Luck!


----------



## Rubberback (Sep 9, 2008)

My son does this. He's a fireman for Houston & lives in your area. Here's the start of my bar.


----------

