# Help me design my 1st boat



## rjackh (Mar 16, 2011)

I want an aluminum boat for bass fishing, duck hunting, and camping on the colorado, brazos, and navasota rivers. I am considering ordering a custom hull from southfork. I think I want a 1648 V nose flat bottom, tunnel, 6" manual jack plate, and ~25 hp outboard with cav. plate. 

Do yall think this would be a good boat for these rivers? I was considering a mud hull and surface drive for a while, but they are really expensive and I don't think I need something that heavy duty. I will probably be fishing out of this more than hunting, but I want a versatile boat that I can do just about everything OK in. My main concern is being able to run shallow enough because a lot of the colorado that I fish has shallow sections. Thanks for any advice.


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## FISHROADIE (Apr 2, 2010)

Look into getting a jet drive outboard I have a 30 40 hp on a 16 ft long 54'' wide john boat. It runs really shallow, its a 4 stroke mine is pull start but there is a starter boss to put one in if I want to. They are not that much more expensive, and you can change it back and forth if you have a prop lower unit too. I love my jet drive it has gotten me so far up creeks and rivers no other boat would have had a chance at. Except a air boat.


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## Whitebassfisher (May 4, 2007)

Personally, I would be very leery of the jack plate on an engine that size due to no temperature indicator or water pressure gauge. Other than that, go for it. Since it will be custom, how many seats and where? Most off-the-line john boats have front seat too close to rear seat. In the smooth waters of the rivers that is not needed, so maybe move that front seat closer to the bow. Consider welded in aluminum sockets for swivel seats. This boat would last your life, so make it comfortable. Even think about brace rib spacing and how they can help hold ice chests.


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## baytownboy (Jul 24, 2009)

If mostly river fishing, you may think about stick steering, you can see better and the weight will bring the back up a little also when you are by yourself. When you stop to fish you are already set. I had several stick steer boats back in the 60's and 70's and really enjoyed them, but not so much in rough water.


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## weedeater (Aug 22, 2012)

If you get a tunnel hull than you don't want a jack plate because you need your motor closer to the tunnel due to water turbulence. Are you planning on a tiller handle or remote steering? If you want a good wide open boat that will be a do all boat I would look at a 16-17x48 with a 40hp tiller steer..... there's a man that lives near me that has set up a few Alweld Simi "v" flats with the new 40hp 4 stroke Tohatsu and Jack plate that's running a little over 40mph...


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## droebuck (Oct 17, 2011)

Go with the highest h.p. your boat is rated for. I had a flat bottom similar to that with a 25 and always regretted not getting the max motor. If your having the boat custom built have dry storage compartments added, this makes loading up to go much easier with all your gear already in the boat. As far as trolling motors go I would go with a 12v 50lb thrust Minn kota bow mount, that's what I had on my f.b. and it was great.


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## weedeater (Aug 22, 2012)

A boat like this with a front deck extended to hold batteries, life jackets and other items plus the back covered for more storage and back fishing deck is nice.... gives more usable floor space


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## Crusader (Jan 31, 2014)

Have you considered these?
http://www.gheenoe.net/


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## rjackh (Mar 16, 2011)

Thanks for all the advice.

Jet drives - There are several fishing guides on the colorado that use jets, so they must work for them. I have never used one but I've heard they are great until they clog up, then you hate them. Most of the colorado right now is pretty clear, but it can get real weedy at times so I would be afraid to run a jet. Maybe I should call those guides and pick their brains on what they think of jets vs outboards for that river.









Boat layout - Basically this boat. How would I run wires to a light on the bow if the ribs are covered on the sides? If they ribs are exposed, I could run conduit between the hull and the ribs to house wires. However, the rod/gun box might look weird if the ribs are exposed. What do yall think? I also would prefer a single rear bench or fishing deck like weedeater's alweld with dry storage rather than a split rear bench.

Gheenoes - I really like gheenoes and have wanted one for a while, but I don't think a fiberglass boat would hold up in the spots I fish and go to.

So if I run a tunnel, I shouldn't use a jack plate. Or I could get a hull without a tunnel and run a jack plate? Is there an advantage of one over the other? If I don't have a jack plate, is there any way to adjust the height of the motor, or is it just one setting?


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## weedeater (Aug 22, 2012)

I would go with flat bottom and Jack plate but you can adjust your motor up and down on the transom of a tunnel hull if needed. To run wires (which should be ran from factory) you can use a fish tape if needed to run wires under your floor or have the boat ordered with a floor that screws down instead of being welded in. Most of these boats can be ordered with decks, storage, gun boxes and such however you want them designed. ... I live in south Louisiana where we fish alot of marsh and there's a lot of setups that they keep in Stock over here without having to order and some very knowledgeable guys for setting up fast shallow running boats.


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## rjackh (Mar 16, 2011)

weedeater said:


> I would go with flat bottom and Jack plate but you can adjust your motor up and down on the transom of a tunnel hull if needed. To run wires (which should be ran from factory) you can use a fish tape if needed to run wires under your floor or have the boat ordered with a floor that screws down instead of being welded in. Most of these boats can be ordered with decks, storage, gun boxes and such however you want them designed. ... I live in south Louisiana where we fish alot of marsh and there's a lot of setups that they keep in Stock over here without having to order and some very knowledgeable guys for setting up fast shallow running boats.


Any places or dealerships in particular I should check out?


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## Crusader (Jan 31, 2014)

rjackh said:


> Gheenoes - I really like gheenoes and have wanted one for a while, but I don't think a fiberglass boat would hold up in the spots I fish and go to.


Can you elaborate on that? Do you mean fiberglass is too fragile to survive a hit into a stump? Or it can't stand being dragged over shell and gravel?


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## FISHROADIE (Apr 2, 2010)

rjackh said:


> Thanks for all the advice.
> 
> Jet drives - There are several fishing guides on the colorado that use jets, so they must work for them. I have never used one but I've heard they are great until they clog up, then you hate them. Most of the colorado right now is pretty clear, but it can get real weedy at times so I would be afraid to run a jet. Maybe I should call those guides and pick their brains on what they think of jets vs outboards for that river.
> 
> ...


Jet drives can clog up with weeds I just put mine in reverse and gun it and it spits them out. I have always wanted to take my jet drive to the Colorado river. If the guides run them that should tell you something.


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## weedeater (Aug 22, 2012)

Lake Area Marine in Lake Charles sells Alweld and Tohatsu. Talk to Kyle 337-433-7019 and he can point you in the right direction, they sell alot of this style boats. 

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk


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## rjackh (Mar 16, 2011)

Crusader said:


> Can you elaborate on that? Do you mean fiberglass is too fragile to survive a hit into a stump? Or it can't stand being dragged over shell and gravel?


Ya, I would hate to hit a log or submerged rock at speed in a fiberglass boat and bust a hole. The same thing in a good aluminum boat should only put a dent I am hoping. If I was going to mainly be fishing the coast, I would get a gheenoe or glide since I fly fish a lot.


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## txtrotliner88 (Mar 3, 2013)

I have a 2013 model 1648 Alweld V nose w/ a 40 hp Honda 4 stoke tiller (w/ electric tilt and trim). I bought it brand new from Heritage Marine in Beaumont 409-861-4118. Rick, the owner, was extremely helpful and was very competitive on price. I was looking at building a south fork boat as well, then I found my boat, already built and only a couple hrs drive away. It came with a heavy duty EZ-Tilt galvanized trailer. I wouldn't recommend welding the seat bases, if you ever needed to replace one or one got damaged, it's much easier to unbolt and replace. It has a front deck with one seat base in the center. It came pre wired w/ mounting plate for a trolling motor. It has three seat bases across the back bench (two for riding and one in the center for fishing). The floor and sides are covered with welded in aluminum to cover the ribs. The front, floor/sides and back bench are all filled with foam so the boat is unsinkable. The whole interior of the boat is covered with Gatorhide nonslip coating. It's a perfect setup for what you wanna do.


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## Whitebassfisher (May 4, 2007)

I would really suggest talking to a custom boat builder with your questions. I have a 1542 Boatright that I had made. It was very little more than an assembly line boat. The size of mine is unusual, but I ordered it that way for a reason.


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## rjackh (Mar 16, 2011)

txtrotliner88 said:


> I have a 2013 model 1648 Alweld V nose w/ a 40 hp Honda 4 stoke tiller (w/ electric tilt and trim). I bought it brand new from Heritage Marine in Beaumont 409-861-4118. Rick, the owner, was extremely helpful and was very competitive on price. I was looking at building a south fork boat as well, then I found my boat, already built and only a couple hrs drive away. It came with a heavy duty EZ-Tilt galvanized trailer. I wouldn't recommend welding the seat bases, if you ever needed to replace one or one got damaged, it's much easier to unbolt and replace. It has a front deck with one seat base in the center. It came pre wired w/ mounting plate for a trolling motor. It has three seat bases across the back bench (two for riding and one in the center for fishing). The floor and sides are covered with welded in aluminum to cover the ribs. The front, floor/sides and back bench are all filled with foam so the boat is unsinkable. The whole interior of the boat is covered with Gatorhide nonslip coating. It's a perfect setup for what you wanna do.


Sounds like the marsh series that I can't find anywhere online but Heritage sometimes stocks. Any pictures you could post? What speeds do you get with that 40 honda and how shallow do you run it?


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## txtrotliner88 (Mar 3, 2013)

rjackh said:


> Sounds like the marsh series that I can't find anywhere online but Heritage sometimes stocks. Any pictures you could post? What speeds do you get with that 40 honda and how shallow do you run it?


This is when she was brand new. Hadn't even put the stickers on it yet.


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## txtrotliner88 (Mar 3, 2013)

With just me in it I have hit 38 mph using the speedometer app on my iPhone. I have an SE Sport 300 Hydrofoil on it so that robs about 2-3 mph top speed, but I don't race, I fish so that's plenty fast for me. That hydrofoil is a must have. Since all the weight is in the rear of the boat it was a lil hard to get on plane when I was fully loaded. After I installed the hydrofoil it was like a totally different boat. Easy to plane no matter how much weight I am carrying and it holds the boat more solid in the water so it rides much better in rough water. As for how shallow it can run it does pretty well. Electric tilt and trim makes a huge difference in that regard. I have idled thru water less than a foot.


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## rjackh (Mar 16, 2011)

I am having a hard time deciding between a tunnel with a jet drive or tunnel with a jack plate and tiller outboard. I found a tunnel southfork with a jackplate and 40 merc for sale and the guy says it will do about 35 (plenty fast for me) and it will run in about 6" of water. That seems like it will work in the rivers I want to fish. What do yall suggest? I plan to take a ride in the boat on Monday.


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