# Anybody willing to fix my goof?



## stangfan93 (Aug 4, 2007)

I tried sanding and staining my stock for my 10/22 and it didn't turn out well. Not well at all. Then I tried re-sanding it down and then I just got frustrated with it. 

Anybody willing to fix it for me? I have the stain and the clear so that way you don't have to use yours. If anyone is interested and/or willing to help let me know. Thanks a lot.


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## trodery (Sep 13, 2006)

What part of it did not turn out well? Have any pictures?

Do you have the stock off the gun? If so I'll give you a hand if you bring it by the house sometime or drop it off at my office here in La Porte.


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## stangfan93 (Aug 4, 2007)

Here is what I would like for my stock to look like. I would also be willing to pay in the form of either cash or 12 pack of your favorite beverage.


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## stangfan93 (Aug 4, 2007)

trodery said:


> What part of it did not turn out well? Have any pictures?
> 
> Do you have the stock off the gun? If so I'll give you a hand if you bring it by the house sometime or drop it off at my office here in La Porte.


That would be great Trod. I appreciate the offer especially with such a quick reply. I will pm you in just a bit. Thanks a lot.

No pics as of right now.


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## trodery (Sep 13, 2006)

LOL....to get a glossy shine the only way I would know how to do it is MULTIPLE coats of Polyurethane...I'm talking like a dozen or more coats that require sanding after each application has dried. Anybody else have any thoughts other than multiple coats?

To get it done correctly and more easy the barrel, trigger and all other items need to be removed from the stock.


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## stangfan93 (Aug 4, 2007)

dang! 

All the parts are off the stock. 

I got the idea from a guy on Rimfire Central. He did the exact same thing. I followed everything he said he did. Bought the same stain the same polyurethane. Which says Clear Gloss on the label. I figured it would just be shiny like that. 

Well It doesn't have to be THAT shiny. I would like for it to look nice.


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## trodery (Sep 13, 2006)

Yeah, I once built a desk and the top was made out of "Purple Heart" wood, I wanted it to be EXTRA glossy and I think it was something like 18-20 coats we ended up putting on it 

If you have it sanded down, I'll be happy to apply the stain you provide and up to two coats of whatever Poly you bring. If you want more than two coats of Poly I'll show you how to sand it between coats


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## bill (May 21, 2004)

If the stock is off, I would also be willing to help. I have done some in the past. Really need to see yours first to give some type of idea.


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## stangfan93 (Aug 4, 2007)

Tell yall what. I will post some pics this evening and let you all decide. 

I can do the work after the 2 coats. Its just that I need to be shown more or less. I am a better visual and hands on learner than I am at reading and then doing whatever task I am trying to do.


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## trodery (Sep 13, 2006)

LOL...When it comes to applying Poly I usually get my wife involved, she has much more patience than I do.


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## Bobby (May 21, 2004)

If I wanted it to shine like that I would do it a little different. I would mix up some poly resin and put a thin coat 1/8" on then let it set for a few days and put on another coat 1/8". But thats just me. I like poly resin. Or there is another way too. They make a counter top acrylic that is a 2 part 50/50 mix. It will leave a very glossy shine and is pretty tough. It self levels too. I had a counter top done over a mural and it took a heck of a beating before Ike killed it.


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## bill (May 21, 2004)

I would think on a piece that size, I would spray the poly to get then even coats with no or very little runs to wet sand out. It will take time to get the finish you want...then everytime you go shoot it you will worry about scratches LOL

Another option but more costly is to use a self leveling epoxy. Envirotex-lite is what I use on lures and it's great. It would be much quicker..but a little more expensive. Either way it will need to be hung up and rotated to dry.


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## bill (May 21, 2004)

Jink Bobby!!!


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## Bobby (May 21, 2004)

We posted at the same time LOL


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## bill (May 21, 2004)

LOL different words, same thought


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## Slip (Jul 25, 2006)

Arn't gun stocks with a glossy finish usually done with Tru Oil finish?


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## Tortuga (May 21, 2004)

slip knot said:


> Arn't gun stocks with a glossy finish usually done with Tru Oil finish?


That's what I read, Slip...very complicated application...

what do you guys think about "Bobby's Magic Juice" on this one ??

Sure does a hell of a nice job on wooden pens and bowls...


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## EndTuition (May 24, 2004)

Envirotex ! You will need a means of rotating it till it dries, but you will be done in one coat. A small bottle ought to get it. Hobby Lobby has it, but no one will know what you are asking for. Hint, it comes in a box. 

Or look up MCU's (Moisture Curing Urethanes). Expensive as all get out, but super hard and super fast drying. If you go with an MCU, PM me for some "lessons learned" notes.

Good luck and post up the results.


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## fishingnotcatching (May 30, 2007)

A single dip in Hi-viscosity 2 - part epoxy would be pretty shiny. I use the stuff from West Marine on all kinds of stuff. Hasn't yellowed on my boat deck (yet). 

You'd have to mask off any parts that have tight clearances, though, as the epoxy lays on pretty thick.


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## Saulnier (Dec 10, 2004)

From a former shop teacher of 14 years:
Try this:
http://www.waterlox.com/desktopmodules/fathomecom/Catalog/ProductDetail.aspx?ct=26
You just wipe it on with little or NO sanding between coats. Wears like iron.
You can buy it in several sizes at WoodCraft in Houston.

Or

Spray Lacquer or Polyurethane from and aresol can.

Saulnier


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## EndTuition (May 24, 2004)

Actually Waterlox is a good idea, I forgot about that stuff. If, however, the other versions are like the marine version, you might as well paint it brown if you put more than one coat on it. The marine stuff is as dark as molasses, but it does make a good wipe on type finish.


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## Tortuga (May 21, 2004)

'stang..I ain't getting involved in the finishing..but do remember that I read somewhere that a high-gloss finish on a rifle is great if it is a 'show' rifle..but the glossy finish will reflect every bit of sunshine that hits it in the field..and game will scoot on ya at first glance.. Might think about a little more satiny (is that a word?) finish if you're gonna hunt with it...


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## fabian31268 (Jul 31, 2005)

*stocks*

do a search for 10/22 stocks you may find a upgrade you like at a good price theres alot of them out there


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## stangfan93 (Aug 4, 2007)

fabian31269 said:


> do a search for 10/22 stocks you may find a upgrade you like at a good price theres alot of them out there


I do plan on buying an aftermarket stock and barrel such as a Predator stock or a Boyds stock. But in the mean time I just wanted to see what I could do with the factory stock. More or less me making a feeble attempt at refinishing a wood stock. Thanks for all the info. I need to post pics of the stock in its current form. I will do this tomorrow during the day.


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## stangfan93 (Aug 4, 2007)

*Okay I got the pics finally.*

Here are the pics.

Right side









left side









Grip area









fore end area


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## stangfan93 (Aug 4, 2007)

So the grip area needs to be taken down still. I couldn't get my power sander in there. It is a little tight. I got it in there when I 1st stripped it. It was easier. Then also the front tip of the fore area is hard as well. If not one is still willing to help then thats fine. I was going to purchase another stock anyways. Thanks a lot guys.


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## trout250 (Aug 24, 2005)

you need to strip that stock first. trying to sand the finish off you are going to have a bear of a time with it. strip it , then sand restain or dye it then use tru oil on it will give you a good finish


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## bill (May 21, 2004)

trout250 said:


> you need to strip that stock first. trying to sand the finish off you are going to have a bear of a time with it. strip it , then sand restain or dye it then use tru oil on it will give you a good finish


I agree, lot of work left to be done before a finish can be applied.


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