# Barrel Break-in. Worth the time?



## spurgersalty (Jun 29, 2010)

I'v read alot of books and manuals including gunsmithing rifles by Patrick Sweeney that recommend breaking in a barrel with a certain(although they all differ!) procedure. Have any of you done this and if so were you pleased with the results. I've wanted to.do.it on a new rifle and will probably proceed regardless, but still want your opinions and results. 
Also, there are several different methods that are recommended such as shoot the first shot, clean by running 2 wet(bore cleaner) patches through, then 2 dry patches through. Another variation says to use the traditional barrel cleaning procedure complete with bore brush pushed through several times and then running dry patches through till they.finally come out unsoiled. Anyway, I'd like to know your opinions and if any, your recommended procedure.

Also, I know this will probably be about a 3 to 4 hour ordeal and am prepared. Good times, shooting!


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## Cap-N-Red (May 21, 2004)

spurgersalty , thanks for posting this. I am wondering the same thing myself. In the past I haven't taken the time to "break in" a barrell , just started shooting the rifle and then work up a load for it.. However with this new one I wonder if it is worth the hassel. An assualt rifle isn't as easy as a bolt action to run a rod into.


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## Ernest (May 21, 2004)

I've done on two "better" barrels recently. They were not benchrest or anything. Just decent SS target style barrels. 

I don't think it hurts, assuming you are not shooting some barrel burning round that only has a real limited life span AND can clean a weapon without damaging it. 

But, admittedly, I was also forming up some brass, doing very initial round development, and getting the weapons to a basic zero, so most of the shots were going to be fired anyway.


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## spurgersalty (Jun 29, 2010)

It's actually 2 rifles one is a 204 and the other is the 6.5 REM mag asked about load data in a previous thread..The ruler has a 26 in Target barrel the remmy a 22 in standard. Just wanted to finally try it. And was looking for experience. Ernest you're right, the ar will probably take twice as long!


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## Jungle_Jim (Nov 16, 2007)

I do it, at least on every rifle I think I may like. I dont know if it really helps but I think it can't hurt.
I will say that my best shooting rifles have been broken in by the following method.


1: Fire one round and clean with hoppes #9 and brush and patch dry.
I do this 5 times. After the fifth shot I clean with Sweets 7.62 solvent.

2: I repeat the procedure 2 times.

3: I then fire 5 rounds and clean with hoppes #9

4: I fire 5 rounds and clean with Sweets 7.62.

The totalround fired by step #4 is 20.

5: I then clean with Hoppes #9 patch dry I then run two patches of CLP down the bore and fire a fouling shot.

6: I let the rifle competely cool off (30 minutes in the shade). 

7: I then zero the rifle.

8: I then clean the rifle with Hoppes #9, patch it dry and lube with CLP x 2 patches. 
If I had to use 10 or more rounds to zero I then use the Sweets againto ensure copper fouling is gone.

DO NOT LEAVE SWEETS IN YOUR BARREL!!!!


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## muddyfuzzy (Jan 2, 2011)

*Stainless**Chrome moly*5 one-shot cycles5 - 25 - one-shot cycles1 three-shot cycle2 - three-shot cycles1 five-shot cycle1 - five-shot cycle

Initially you should perform the shoot-one-shot-and-clean cycle for five cycles. If fouling hasn't reduced, fire five more cycles and so on until fouling begins to drop off. At that point shoot three shots before cleaning and observe. If fouling is reduced, fire five shots before cleaning.

totally worth it in my opinion.


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## SV_DuckBuster (Sep 18, 2007)

You'll have to excuse my ignorance, but what do these break in procedures actually do to the barrell that makes it better than just shooting the gun and cleaning it after you leave the range?


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## spurgersalty (Jun 29, 2010)

Smooth the edges of the lands which are Sharp from the rifling process. If I'm correct, these Sharp edges increase fooling by slightly marring the bullet as it travels down the barrel. It also creates a smoother surface for the.bullet to ride on supposedly increasing accuracy. I could be.wrong tho'? Anybody?


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## SeaTex (Aug 27, 2009)

SV_DuckBuster said:


> You'll have to excuse my ignorance, but what do these break in procedures actually do to the barrell that makes it better than just shooting the gun and cleaning it after you leave the range?


From what I understand the process smooths out the machine marks in the barrel thus reducing the amount of fouling, making it easier to clean. I can't tell that it improved accuracy of my rifle.


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## SV_DuckBuster (Sep 18, 2007)

spurgersalty said:


> Smooth the edges of the lands which are Sharp from the rifling process. If I'm correct, these Sharp edges increase fooling by slightly marring the bullet as it travels down the barrel. It also creates a smoother surface for the.bullet to ride on supposedly increasing accuracy. I could be.wrong tho'? Anybody?





SeaTex said:


> From what I understand the process smooths out the machine marks in the barrel thus reducing the amount of fouling, making it easier to clean. I can't tell that it improved accuracy of my rifle.


Ok, now I understand. I was under the impression that folks were saying that it increased accuracy or made for a better shooting barrel.
Thanks


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## spurgersalty (Jun 29, 2010)

SV_DuckBuster said:


> Ok, now I understand. I was under the impression that folks were saying that it increased accuracy or made for a better shooting barrel.
> Thanks


Yes, that is what I've read. But only so much. And in some it does nothing to increase accuracy.


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## muddyfuzzy (Jan 2, 2011)

with a high-end lapped barrel the process is much more simple. however, on mass produced barrels (even quality pieces) there barrel still has inconsistencies in the interal profile. i use the amount of fouling as the benchmark as to when the process is complete.


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## Kyle 1974 (May 10, 2006)

so how exactly does a brass bullet polish something that is significantly harder than itself?

I think it's a waste of time.... the only damage can come is that from improper cleaning... and possible tennis elbow from too much stroking.

although I came across a very informative video on youtube...


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## muddyfuzzy (Jan 2, 2011)

Kyle 1974 said:


> so how exactly does a brass bullet polish something that is significantly harder than itself?


the same way a river cut the grand canyon.


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## spurgersalty (Jun 29, 2010)

muddyfuzzy said:


> the same way a river cut the grand canyon.


Kinda the opposite but I get your drift.

Kyle multiply that brass bullet by 50(the amount of shots in most break-in procedures) then couple each bullet with high pressures and intense heat from friction(bullets moving anywhere from 2000 fps to 4500 fps) and you have a very efficient bore polisher. Haven't you heard of bores getting washed out by super hot rounds? If I remember right the 264 win. mag use to have a reputation for doing this. As did many of the super small cartridges in search of the 4000fps mark back in the day.


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## tboltmike (Jun 21, 2006)

Interesting discussion.

The is company in Houston that electro polishes heat exchangers to minimize fouling. They also have/had a service to do the same for firearms. They would also bore scope video and profile the bore diameters. I think their name is Delstar or Daystar.

A national preimere high power rifle competitor, David Tubb, sold a series of bullets with imbedded lapping compound to polish bbls.

Saw on one of the shooting show on cable the method used by high end bbl mfgs to lap bbls. They cast a lead slug in the bbl and coated it with lapping compound and took a minimum a 1,000 strokes.


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## Kyle 1974 (May 10, 2006)

the entire bore doesn't get washed out when a barrel is "shot out".

over bore guns will show erosion in the throat, but it's not from the bullet passing by, and typically only in the first 1/2 to 1" of the rifling. 

If it gives you a warm and fuzzy go for it.... but I have never seen any benefit from it, at all....


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## spurgersalty (Jun 29, 2010)

After I read my previous post I thought it came off smart a??. I didn't mean to. But in those washed out barrels accuracy is decreased be it in the first few inches of the throat or at the muzzle. The process not only could help with accuracy but also "fouling" through-out the life of the gun. Read up on it a bit its pretty interesting.

As said before different strokes for different folks. 
TBMike they're using what I call the "cold lapping method". This involves the afore said slug with the lapping compound embedded in it and a hammer and a wooden dowel rod. They slowly tap, tap, tap, the slug down the barrel. There is also a fire-lapping kit available from Midway that contains lead bullets and a lapping compound that you apply to the bullets after you've reloaded them. I prefer the method I originally posted about just need to narrow the cleaning procedure down to the one I feel is adequate. 
PS: I don't need this to give me that warm fuzzy feeling, Mrs SS does that kisssm and my uncanny LUCK to hit what I aim at......


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## Jungle_Jim (Nov 16, 2007)

It essentially polishes the rifling which reduces friction which can make it more accurate and can also increase the amount of rounds fired before it needs cleaning. How is that for a run on sentence?


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## CHARLIE (Jun 2, 2004)

Waste of time and money.

Charlie


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## spurgersalty (Jun 29, 2010)

CHARLIE said:


> Waste of time and money.
> 
> Charlie


I'm looking for info Charlie, good or bad. Please explain.


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## B-Money (May 2, 2005)

Why not just go shoot 20 rounds thru the new barrel (taking care to not overheat), clean it really well, then go zero it in?


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## spurgersalty (Jun 29, 2010)

Bobby Miller said:


> Why not just go shoot 20 rounds thru the new barrel (taking care to not overheat), clean it really well, then go zero it in?


If I could afford it, I would buy two identical guns and test this theory. But since I'm just Jason, ill go with the barrel break-in. JUst gotta decide on the procedure now.


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## Jungle_Jim (Nov 16, 2007)

I have known a lot people in my life who bought nice rifles, put cheap scopes and mounts on them, bought the cheapest ammo and then just bore sited or fired away box after box with out proper break in and cleaning.
These people are the same ones that just can't believe that deer got away. Or can't believe they missed that shot.......


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## CoastalOutfitters (Aug 20, 2004)

i would certainly run some hoppes or similar thru the bore w a copper brush on a brand new rifle, swab it dry w a clean patch , shoot a few fouling shots to get on paper and then sight it in. 

How much are you really worried about being off on a hunting rifle........... 1/2 moa ?

break it in as you shoot it, give it 30-40 rounds to let it settle , then work up a load, but I would not sit there and punch paper unless working up loads...............


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## Wolf6151 (Jun 13, 2005)

As I understand it the barrel break in procedure is good to follow but I think it depends on how polished the inside of the barrel is coming from the manufacturer. The more polished the barrel is at the factory the less break in the barrel will need. The more it's polished at the factory the smoother the edges are and the less sharp or jagged edges there will be in the barrel.


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## CHARLIE (Jun 2, 2004)

Spurgersalty

IMHO it really does no good to do that. You do the same thing after owning your gun for a while and shooting it. It does not increase accuracy of the barrel. Cleaning does remove any fouling and you should do that after shooting your gun anyway. Breaking in a barrel I dont think is the correct description. I think it should be called cleaning the barrel after shooting (or before and after) to remove anything that shouldnt be there. Normally if a gun doesent shoot when it is new it is not going to get better with age. Some folks like to make mountains out of a mole hill.. 

Charlie


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## Screeminreel (Jun 2, 2004)

I have looked at it two different ways, first is what is the type, velocity, and weight of the bullets going to be used, then how much I have put into the barrel or the whole build. 

For standard calibers where the velocities run around 2850 for most rounds, and factory barrels, I am not as inclined to polish or break them in so to speak. 

With a Hart, Lilja, or Broughton, in a special built rig I want everything to last so I follow what the barrel manufacturer recommends. these barrels are usually built for something I am looking for top end performance from. In the 30" Lilja 1-8 twist, its getting a .277" J4 jacketed 170gr or 195gr VLD type bullet shoved through it at close to 3400fps. I don't want fouling after two or three shots. I followed the procedure and have not had any issues with it by doing so. I do know that while doing the brake in, there was a distinct drop in fouling noted after I was about half way through so I have to believe it helped. 

Similar results with the 28" Broughton 1-9", it is getting the same type J4 jacketed bullets in a .257" 125 - 130gr run through it at around 3300fps, and standard bullets up to 120grs, can easily hit 3450. With the tighter twist and higher velocity I would like to think that I helped them both out by breaking them in so to speak. Either of them will clean up to a clean patch after 20 or so shots, with very minimum effort. With some of my factory barrels, the time and effort to get a clean patch after the same number of rounds has been nearly twice or three times as involved. As for accuracy, I can't compare the custom built rifles to the off the shelf ones, fairly. I can say that with my handloads they will all shoot nice tiny groups out to further than I, in most cases, need to be shooting. 

If you want to feel better about doing the break in, by all means go for it. It will be a one time thing. After the deed is done, you might find it helps or not, but at least you now have something to compare to.


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## Ernest (May 21, 2004)

Think of it like sandpaper. Clean sandpaper works great, but as soon as it loads up, it stops working. 

Now, your new barrel has all these minor imprefections. Shoot once, and you knock down some of those proud little imperfections, but you fill some imperfections with copper. Just like loading up sand paper. 

If you now clean the copper out of the low spots, the next shot tends to knock down the proud/high spots more effectively. If you just keep shooting without cleaning, the copper merely fills the low spots and thereby reduces the knocking down of the high spots. 

Our goal here is a smooth finish. We want to avoid a rough bore that loads up with copper after a few shots and changes the performance. 

But none of us have the time and money and equipment to do a real study here. Nevertheless, the high end barrel people likely know their stuff. They make money with accuracy and performance.


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## Charles Helm (Oct 22, 2004)

*How should I break-in my new Shilen barrel?*
Break-in procedures are as diverse as cleaning techniques. Shilen, Inc. introduced a break-in procedure mostly because customers seemed to think that we should have one. By and large, we don't think breaking-in a new barrel is a big deal. All our stainless steel barrels have been hand lapped as part of their production, as well as any chrome moly barrel we install. Hand lapping a barrel polishes the interior of the barrel and eliminates sharp edges or burrs that could cause jacket deformity. This, in fact, is what you are doing when you break-in a new barrel through firing and cleaning.
Here is our standard recommendation: Clean after each shot for the first 5 shots. The remainder of the break-in is to clean every 5 shots for the next 50 shots. During this time, don't just shoot bullets down the barrel during this 50 shot procedure. This is a great time to begin load development. Zero the scope over the first 5 shots, and start shooting for accuracy with 5-shot groups for the next 50 shots. Same thing applies to fire forming cases for improved or wildcat cartridges. Just firing rounds down a barrel to form brass without any regard to their accuracy is a mistake. It is a waste of time and barrel life.


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## spurgersalty (Jun 29, 2010)

I don't have a shilen but that is good info.


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## B-Money (May 2, 2005)

So... good barrels don't need a break-in...but sloppy ones do?? So it is possible to polish a turd?


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## spurgersalty (Jun 29, 2010)

LOL, yes Bobby, after its been dehydration!!:rotfl:


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## Charles Helm (Oct 22, 2004)

Bobby Miller said:


> So it is possible to polish a turd?


Well, they did it on Mythbusters but it seemed like a lot of work...


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## dwilliams35 (Oct 8, 2006)

A shooting buddy of mine was a Fed. LEO, and brought the procedure back from when he went through a class at the Marine sniper school. Pretty much everything good he said about the procedure has already been covered, but one thing that is missing is that "break in" is really a lousy term for it, given everybody's mindset on a break-in period on cars, etc.: Apparently all the benefits you can get from this aren't really dependent on the age of the rifle, or how many rounds you've got through it: Like Earnest said in his sandpaper analogy, the real crux of it is in the cleaning, not the firing; if you clean your rifle after every three rounds, you could basically do the same process over twenty years if you want, and you can pick up a ten year old rifle that you just started hunting with out of the box, and get the same benefit from starting it now. (their procedure, if memory serves me correctly, was something on the order of three rounds between cleanings for 21 rounds or so, then going up to five rounds per cleaning: it was around sixty rounds before you were done) We did it on a few rifles one afternoon: it gets pretty dang tedious after a while. Did it help? Yeah, I think it did. Was it a huge difference? Nope, but we're talking about a discipline that deals in very small increments, too..


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