# Patio Cover Build



## misbhavn

I decided to take on the task of building a 14x16 patio cover in my back yard. Summers are brutal out there hanging by the pool when there isn't an ounce of shade.

Last year, I tore out a large section of the old pea gravel slab and had a regular concrete slab poured. That stuff is just too hard on your feet. When I poured the new slab, I dug footers for my posts and installed a drain for any water that might collect under there. I have some pics of the slab being poured, but I can't locate them right now.

I will try to keep posting updates on my progress. It might take me a while to get it completely finished out.

Here are a couple of pics where I tore out part of the old slab and a waterfall that was oddly placed in the middle of the yard.



















Here the slab is obviously completed and I have torn of the soffits abd cut the holes where the beams will butt up against the top plate on the back wall.


----------



## Law Dog

Looks great so far. Why didn't you use all treated wood? From the picture the beams look like they are not treated!


----------



## misbhavn

Installing the ceiling joists and cut the overhang off between the beams. Just about ready to start installing rafters.


----------



## misbhavn

Law Dog said:


> Looks great so far. Why didn't you use all treated wood? From the picture the beams look like they are not treated!


When it's all said and done the beams and posts will be trimmed out and painted. The beams will be well under the overhang so, other than humidity, I really don't see any water getting to them.


----------



## mas360

Is this going to have a roof and shingles like the main building? 

I am wondering about the two posts. Are they 4x4? is that structurally adequate to provide support for a full roof? how did you anchor the footings of the posts to the concrete?


----------



## misbhavn

Yes, the cover will have a full roof and tie into the house structure. The posts are treated 4x4's and are achored to the slab with anchor bolts and stand off brackets. I sure hope they are structurally adequate.


----------



## misbhavn

mas360 said:


> Is this going to have a roof and shingles like the main building?
> 
> I am wondering about the two posts. Are they 4x4? is that structurally adequate to provide support for a full roof? how did you anchor the footings of the posts to the concrete?


You really got me to thinking (read: worried) about this. I started looking around and got a lot of differing information, but the concensus seems to be anywhere between 4000 - 7000 punds, depending on species.

I have two of them and the other end is supported by the main building so I can't imagine I would go above that amount.


----------



## misbhavn

Here are a couple of updated pictures. Rafters are up and I started to install the roof sheathing. I still need to build my gable overhang and I plan to get the sheathing finished this weekend so that I can get the shingles installed. I still need to install all of my hurricane straps too.


----------



## juror81

Looking good. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## acoastalbender

I am not an expert. After looking at the pics those 4x4's are jumping out at me. I would add at least one more in the middle or replace with 6x6's. It does look nice though...


.


----------



## misbhavn

Okay guys, I'm really second guessing going with 4x4's for posts now so I started researching. From what I can find, a #2 pine 4x4 post will support up to about 5500 lbs., but that is dead weight. They will bow and buckle under less weight.

With this in mind I started calculating what I thought my cover will weigh (approximately). Here is a quick run down:

2x12x16 (x6) - 75 lbs (450 total)
2x6x16 (x10) - 45 lbs (450 total)
2x6x12 (x25) - 35 lbs (875 total)
4x8x7/16 OSB (x20) - 50 lbs (1000 total)
4x8x1/2 plywood (x8) - 50 lbs (400 total)
shingles (4 squares) - 200 lbs (800 total)

All of this comes up to 3975 lbs, so let's just say 4000. Now, lets say I'm a total idiot and everything weighs twice what I estimated it at. That puts us at 8000 lbs. Each post would only have to support 25% of that, or 2000 lbs.

Now, I have a post that should be able to support 5500 lbs that is supporting 2000 lbs. In reality, I think that number is closer to 1000 than it is to 2000.

I'd really like to hear from someone with actual knowledge on this subject chime in on this. I really don't want to replace these posts, but I would rather do it now if it has to be done.


----------



## Gilbert

why not just add some 2x around the 4x4? I'm no structural engineer.


----------



## yakPIRATE

i wouldve went with a 6x6 and notch it out so they have a place for the beam to sit.
Ill add pic of mine in a minute.

why is the picture HUGE!


----------



## chazbo

FYI,...you do know your supposed to fill every nail hole in the Simpsons joist hangars.....right? They are also supposed to be special hardened nails (or at least they used to).


----------



## vette74

I design 2 of these a week in the windstorm area in my engineering firm. I would use 6x6 or 8x8 knotched like the pic above. Also the span is too far for 2-2x12s it will sag


----------



## yakPIRATE

Also, I staggered the 2x12 ends on mine. So they kinda "fit" together. Not sure if it has a strength sigificance but looks a little better.


----------



## loco4fishn

*4x6*

Everything looks great. I would maybe try to get a 4x6 in there under the beam. This way if you run them long ways from house to yard you may get away without having to move the post bracket. I would definetly get the post under the beam and not rely on the carriage bolts to hold the load. As far as the span on the beam, just put some cross/angle braces on each side and you will be good


----------



## acoastalbender

I did a roof like yours coming off the backside of a one car garage (12x24). I used 6 4x4's plus the attachment to the original garage leaving it supported every 6 horizontal ft. ( I dropped the addition a foot to add a little interest and break up a 50ft roofline) When applying for the permit the county added horizontal steel bracing every 8ft to prevent "racking" in addition to the double 45 degree vertical bracing I had at each 4x4. I understand your dead load weight is covered but there is a great deal of shear load possible on what you are building...


.


----------



## mas360

yakPIRATE said:


> Also, I staggered the 2x12 ends on mine. So they kinda "fit" together. Not sure if it has a strength sigificance but looks a little better.


Do you have a picture of the staggered 2x12's?


----------



## misbhavn

Not much new to report right now. My son had a baseball tourney all weekend so I didn't really have a lot of time to do much...plus it was hot as Haites. I did manage to get my rafter tails cut back (somehow I mis-measured and they were about 3" too long) and I installed the lookouts for the overhang on the gable. My goal for the next couple of days is to get the sub-fascia installed and the rest of the roof sheathing put up so I can get the shingles installed before it rains.


----------



## yakPIRATE

mas360 said:


> Do you have a picture of the staggered 2x12's?


Give me a minute ill to snap a pic


----------



## yakPIRATE

took a pic but you really couldnt tell what i was trying to explian.
I drew this. you can kinda see what i did in the top two drawings, as opposed to the bottom.
Im not an engineer, architect or a builder but have learned a few things along the way.
hope this helps.


----------



## mas360

Oh yes, that is clear now. That is classic rabbet joint in woodworking, I think. Thanks.


----------



## misbhavn

Here is another updated pic from today. All of the sub-fascia is up and most of the sheathing is completed. I still need to install the fascia and I have about 4 pieces of sheathing to put up on the back side. I have a fellow 2cooler coming out tomorrow to install the shingles.


----------



## Rotate

That looks great.

I think the 4x4 posts would look really good with some trim on the sides to make it look "beefed up". Maybe even a stone base two or three feet high up the post.

Something like this


----------



## SetDaHook

I've been following this post but have been reluctant to chime in. If it were me, I would add another 4 X 4 post to each existing post and "marry" them to each other, and then possibly wrap in cedar like Rotate did. This gives you not only the additional strength (which I truly think you need) but also adds to the appearance and the "beefy" aspect. I had a similar cover added to my patio years ago and they went with 6 X 6 posts and it's held up great. I'm currently building a new house and the builder is using 8 X 8's. Not being critical of your work cause it looks like you're doing a great job, just want you to enjoy it for many years to come with no problems. Good Luck.


----------



## misbhavn

I always planned to furr out the posts to about 12x12 all said and done. I Have decided to go ahead and replace the 4x4's with 6x6's. My main focus is the roof right now. Once I know everything is water tight, I can turn my attention to the rest of the details.


----------



## peckerwood

Looks real good! I think you'll want to put a gutter 'cause that valley is going to be a waterfall splattering and rotting your siding.Man,ya'll will enjoy that porch.


----------



## the hook

FWIW, all your weight bears on the side beams, BUT I would add a 4x4 "under" it, and screw together with the existing 4x4..Yeh, 6x6 notched would have been better..Direct bearing that way..The front beam really has just some gable studs and ply on it, and the rafters will help hold the ply...Where are some new pics??


----------



## WGA1

I am in no way an expert or have any experience building patios, but regarding the 4x4 posts, one morning I was listening to the Tom Tynan Home Show and he stated that 4x4's make terrible posts because they have the tendency to warp and twist after getting wet. He said they do that because the 4x4 is cut from the heartwood of the tree. I don't know, just thought I would pass it on.


----------



## misbhavn

I have a couple of updated pics that I need to post, but they're at home so I will have to do it tonight. The shingles were installed weekend before last (that was an experience in and of itself) and I haven't done anythind since then. I was going hard for a few weeks before that. Now that the shingles are on and I don't have to worry about rain, I have tended to a few other things.

Shingles are on and fascia is up, now I need to install hurricane straps, frame and install soffits, install ceiling material, run electrical and do all of the finish trim.

I did decide to replace th 4x4's with 6x6's, but I haven't got around to that yet.


----------



## Gottagofishin

Instead of replacing the 4x4s, which is doable, but also carries some risk, I would marry some 2x6's to the 4x4's and then sheath the whole assembly which you were planning anyway. That would give you the structural strength you are looking for without scrapping the 4x4s. 

At any rate, it looks good.


----------



## misbhavn

Here are the pics with the shingls installed. Now I need to get motivated to get out there and finish it up. I imagine the updates will start coming in fewer and further between. I will be finishing it up in my spare time. I have done everything but the shingles myself. It's not like I have a crew of helpers working with me.


----------



## byte-me

Nice work, but your corner posts look a little under sized. I'd hate for them to twist and bow with the load and moisture down the road. May want to cap the corners with some angle iron, lag them in and cover with some 3/4'' hardie.


----------



## yakPIRATE

byte-me said:


> Nice work, but your corner posts look a little under sized. I'd hate for them to twist and bow with the load and moisture down the road. May want to cap the corners with some angle iron, lag them in and cover with some 3/4'' hardie.


He said he is going to swap for 6x6s


----------



## BullyARed

Very nice job!


----------

