REPLACING FUEL TANK - stay with alum or go to soft fuel cell

[srudis]

My tank is leaking & I'm not sure what to replace with. If I go back with aluminum, I will have to remove the center console & un-deck my 30' boat. I haven't got pricing yet, but I'm sure it will be costly.

My other option I found is an ATL custom marine fuel cell - they are fully collapsible so they can be installed inside the old aluminum tank. They say they use them in Fountian power boats, and many other racing boats & cars.

ATL says I can install thru my floor hatch that butts up to my old tank & cutting out a section of the old tank to slide inside.

www.atlfuelcells.com is there web site.

I would appreciate any help on this...

Scott

[Angler 1]

i just pulled the console up and took out both tanks. it is really not as hard of job as you think. the aluminum tank might be able to be repaired. get you a buddy or two and you can knock it out in one day.

GOOD LUCK

[srudis]

My console is not large. My tank is longer and wider than the console. I called the manuf & they said I will have to un-deck the boat to remove the tank. I wish I had 2 tanks so it would be smaller units to deal with.

Scott

[STxFisherman]

I studied the ATL tanks and was told that you they need to have enough space to fill up without bends or kinks in the tank. In other words...you have to lay the flexible tank down in an area sufficient to meet the dimensions of the tank when full. I hope that this info helps...but...ask them about my statements here to make sure. If I'm not totally correct, let me know...I wanted one also but figured out that it's not the way to go for my needs.

[Haute Pursuit]

I don't know how tear resistant these are but if you have a hole in your tank and there are any rough edges inside of the original tank, I would be wary. Good luck either way. I know all about having to cut the deck out to replace tanks... we just had it done to one of our boats last year.

[makoclay]

I replaced an aluminum tank in an old Mako I had once. I went back with a plastic one. If it is a boat you plan to keep for a while I would suggest pulling the old tank and replacing it. As said earlier, I found out that the job was not that bad however I had a hatch directly above the tank and did not have to remove the entire deck.

I would suspect that your existing tank has baffles in it. If so, how large of an insert tank could you put inside? If you are going to remove the baffles I would think it would be a real challenge to remove them and then smooth out the welds sufficiently enough to remove any burrs that would puncture the collapsable tank.

[wacker]

What Makoclay said....either way the old tank has got to come out, I replaced mine and I just cut the deck out over the tank and made a fiberglass hatch for it. Just be sure you keep the salt water from ever getting to the new tank.

[srudis]

Thanks everyone for the help. I don't know if my tank has baffels - I will call the manuf to find out. That will be a deciding factor if I can use the ATL tank. I like the ATL tank for the weight savings.

Scott

[jtburf]

Go with Alum and this time have it coated before you start ....
folks are useing coldtar ///
and yes a tank must be baffeled......it will outlast anything else on the boat and you will be good to go....

John

[berzerker]

I use the ATL for extra range. They are great but I think you need to be able to see them. When I bought mine I went back and forth with them on a place to put it. I was thinking of putting it in the rectangular space between my two seats in the Vberth. But they recomended it to lay flat. I don't think you want creases in it or have it rubbing on itself or anything else. I ended up putting 1" ply wood across my vberth and then covered it with soft carpet then laid it across the top. I also have some tiedown straps crossed over the top to keep it from sloshing around since it does not have a rigid frame.. and the gulf gets rough.. this is my 3rd summer with it and no problems. My $.02