Originally Posted by monark
I had kids running around barefoot, playing basketball, etc. & I was worried about splinters from the old wood joints. It was a bit tedious, I had to remove the old wood, run a side grinder with a wire wheel to clean the edges, prime with their primer, & then pour the joints. I bought in bulk instead of caulk tubes cause I had quite a bit to repair. I bought cheap flower pot water buckets, cut the snout off & wahla, new joints. This stuff sticks good.
I prefer SL1 and will occasionally use an Adeka product.
Explanation to those that don't know.
Most expansion joint material if done right will come with a removable top (from the top of concrete approximately a 1/2" down by 1/2" wide.).
After pouring (usually the next day) you would come and remove the "cap", sawcut for control joints, and then place a backer rod (only purpose is to create a barrier and use less sealant later) and then seal the joint with any of the above mentioned sealants.
The sealants purpose is to seal the top of the joint to prevent any dirt or other debris from filling the expansion void. If the void becomes filled, you could wind up with a nice triangular concrete section.
Seen it my self in Silsbee a few years back. Almost 2' high where the 2 adjoining slabs apexed. lol....would you want to be the guy that hit that at 35mph