T-Top recomendations

**Team POCOWhaler** · #1 06-09-2005, 03:35 PM

I'm planning to install a T-Top on my 18' whaler very soon and would like some input. 4x6 vs 5x7 how much add'l shade does the bigger one offer? brushed or polished finish? rod holder positions? outriggers - do i really need them or can I get by with a pair of tournament style rod holders (facing outward) on the T-Top? I have to take the top off so the break-aways are a must - do they hold up? Millennium marine seems to have the best price - any input would be greatly appreciated..

**chuck richey** · #2 06-09-2005, 03:40 PM

You can not go wrong with Millennium. Jason and Jody do great work. They have a both at the boat show so you can stop in and see how there products look.

**Spots and Dots** · #3 06-09-2005, 05:54 PM

I don't have experiance with anot shop other than SAW in Victoria. They did a great job on our stuff.

I don;t think I'd choice builder by price alone. Sometimes, you get what you pay for.

Not knocking those guys though.

**Blackgar** · #4 06-09-2005, 06:22 PM

Think long & hard about putting a top on a small boat, unless you fish alone or baitfish they do get in the way of casting. Been there done that. Just my .02

**JohnHumbert** · #5 06-09-2005, 08:44 PM

A 5x7 metal top on a 18' Whaler will flip that hull in a heartbeat. A 4x6 will probably have the same result.

Don't do it.

The boat is too narrow and floats too high (there's not enough hull in the water). All you'd need is a small amount of rocking and the changed COG will cause the hull to flip. This could happen even more easily while running WOT. Big bad news.

If you doubt what I am saying - contact Boston Whaler and ask them - I'm pretty sure they'll tell you the same thing. There is a reason why you don't see smaller whalers with t-tops and even the larger ones have tiny (like 3x3) sun t-tops.

You have to have beam of AT LEAST the height of the t-top, PLUS 18" of hull below water to even THINK about putting a t-top on, and enough weight below waterline to counteract the change in COG with additional weight above deck. You said your whaler is 18' - and the only fishing 18-footer whaler makes that I know of is the Dauntless (Montauks are 17' and 19'). I think the 18' Dauntless IS beamy for it length at 8', but it only draws 12" and probably weighs less than 2500 lbs with motor. That's too light to put a 5x7 top that could weigh 250-300 lbs. A smaller top perhaps, but I think even a 4x6 may be a bit large.

Be careful, my friend, I hate to think another of our brethern capsized offshore.

**Team POCOWhaler** · #6 06-09-2005, 11:07 PM

John,

thanks for your insight and yes I do have a dauntless 18 - the boat fully rigged and fueled weighs in at about 3000 lbs (one of the heaviest 18's out there) and is one of the beamiest 18'ers i've been aboard so i'm not sorry worried about stability (on a montauk yes). I'm keeping it simple with no electronics box or outriggers the wieght and sould be only slightly more than my all stainless bimini. Your point is well taken and I will certainly talk with the builder about his recomendations before proceeding.

**jtburf** · #7 06-10-2005, 08:48 AM

Jason is Top knotch on your hull how wide is the inside of you hull where the top will be mounted ...you do not want it to be wider than the inside of your hull

John

**savage** · #8 06-10-2005, 11:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnHumbert

A 5x7 metal top on a 18' Whaler will flip that hull in a heartbeat. A 4x6 will probably have the same result. Don't do it.
The boat is too narrow and floats too high (there's not enough hull in the water). All you'd need is a small amount of rocking and the changed COG will cause the hull to flip.

When I had the T-top off of my boat to custom fit the home-built electronics box, I was surprised how light the structure was... Maybe 30 pounds total for the alloy/canvas.

Of course after installing the box, the radios, lights, wiring and whatnot, its probably twice that heavy now. You might ask your top builder the net weight will be. I personally don't think that the change in center of gravity will be a deal killer.

Thru-bolting and back-plates might be. You want to have the top mounted very sturdy, and that means nuts and bolts rather than just screws. I don't know if Whaler foam will allow for that. Your dealer should know.

Regarding the sizing, the extra 11-square feet will really be appreciated in going to the 5x7. Go big. That's room for two more people in the shade.

Regarding folding the structure, I have nothing to add other than that's going to complicate things quite a bit. If you can avoid the break-away mechanism you'll have a more sturdy build at a lower cost.

**Drifter** · #9 06-10-2005, 01:16 PM

nms

Quote:

Originally Posted by jabx1962

Tops N Towers will do you a great job..and you won't be without your boat for longer than a week...

You should also consider doing a console top...

**Loco Pato** · #10 06-10-2005, 08:15 PM

Theres Tops and Towers and everyone else who wants to be them but without the lifetime warranty........ Bobby and Charlie are the best in the industry. Pay them now or pay them later..........