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Bbond919
09-14-2006, 10:31 PM
Hey whats goin on yall....i usta race at k & M's about 4 years ago and i sold all my stuff. I just received an rc10t3 roller for $30.00 and was lookin at motors and esc's and servo's and couldnt decide on which ones to go with. Is their an electric class still at k&m , and if so what is everyone runnin???

insaneracin2003
09-14-2006, 11:47 PM
Hey whats goin on yall....i usta race at k & M's about 4 years ago and i sold all my stuff. I just received an rc10t3 roller for $30.00 and was lookin at motors and esc's and servo's and couldnt decide on which ones to go with. Is their an electric class still at k&m , and if so what is everyone runnin???THE ELEC CLAS IS GETTING SLIM,BUT WE WOULD LOVE TO GET MORE PEOPLE OUT THERE TO KEEP IT GOING, ooooppppsss,sorry for the caps, but anyways,we are running elec 4wd buggies in the mod class and i am the only truck (T-4) running in there class. We just started a 10 week series last week and it went pretty good.now is the time to come oin out and get tham tires dirty. The track open on thurs - sun. we race on sat nite. sign up ends at 4:30 and racing begins around 5;00.come see us.
Paul w/.Team Insaneracin'

cjtamu
09-15-2006, 10:06 AM
If I were buying new motors and speedos I'd bite the bullet and go with a brushless setup, Novak 5.5 should be about right for Mod Truck. If you're going to stay with brushed motors, look for a deal on a good used speedo (LRP 7.1, Novak GT-7, etc.). Go with the v-brush motors or a Team Checkpoint, less maintenance, longer life. Futaba 9451 is a great steering servo, about $80. If you want to spend less look at the JR590.

Gary
09-15-2006, 05:05 PM
Hey whats goin on yall....i usta race at k & M's about 4 years ago and i sold all my stuff. I just received an rc10t3 roller for $30.00 and was lookin at motors and esc's and servo's and couldnt decide on which ones to go with. Is their an electric class still at k&m , and if so what is everyone runnin???
Welcome back to the hobby and to 2Cool! :D

Bbond919
09-15-2006, 09:02 PM
insaneracing2003 : if you dont mine me asking whats your setup? i was lookin at somethin like a p2k2 and maybe a jrs radio....

i am not shure if that will be to competative tho...

Yalls input will be greatley appreciated :)

insaneracin2003
09-16-2006, 01:06 AM
insaneracing2003 : if you dont mine me asking whats your setup? i was lookin at somethin like a p2k2 and maybe a jrs radio....

i am not shure if that will be to competative tho...

Yalls input will be greatley appreciated :)my set up on my T-4 is all stock-out of the box set-up. I am not sure what turn motor i am running,but it is fast.i am not sure of the 4wd guys.In stock i run the p2k2 and it is fine. I am also running thr JRxs3 radio.

insaneracin2003
09-16-2006, 01:08 AM
if you wanna throw a mod motor in you vehicle,let me know,i have bunches of them you can use.I also run 3300 stick packs and last the 7 minute mains.

Bbond919
09-16-2006, 02:07 AM
cool sounds good man

Bbond919
09-16-2006, 02:10 AM
So i have been lookin around and studyin up and some things just dont make any sense.....

1.what is a motor limit on an esc?

2.whats the Different between a spur and a pinion? and how do i calculate what i need?

3.what do the different turns in motors mean?

4.how can i match a motor with an Esc?

Gary
09-16-2006, 08:42 AM
So i have been lookin around and studyin up and some things just dont make any sense.....

1.what is a motor limit on an esc?

2.whats the Different between a spur and a pinion? and how do i calculate what i need?

3.what do the different turns in motors mean?

4.how can i match a motor with an Esc?
Motor limit means that you can only run so much motor on a particualr esc before nuclear fission. Motors are rated by the number of winds of wire that is wrapped around the armature. IE, a 10x2 is two wires wrapped ten times. The lower number of winds, the faster the motor. But a 10x2 will be too much power in the beginning. for ya. I would say something like a 13x3 if you want to run mod. Your best bet though is to start out with stock.

A pinion gear is the small one that goes on the motor, and the spur is the bigger gear that goes on the tranny.

This all depends on your budget on what to get, but I wouldnt waste my time buying el cheapo electronics. Go with a high end Novak or LRP esc. Get a good radio too. But an M11 is VERY expensive. I have an older Airtronics 3PS I can let go for really cheap. Something like $40.

PD2
09-16-2006, 08:43 AM
So i have been lookin around and studyin up and some things just dont make any sense.....

1.what is a motor limit on an esc?

2.whats the Different between a spur and a pinion? and how do i calculate what i need?

3.what do the different turns in motors mean?

4.how can i match a motor with an Esc?
Hi Bond919! Welcome to 2Cool Racing Team - glad you could join us here!

Let me see if I can help you a bit with some of this:

1. A motor limit on an ESC means that only certain winding/turn motors can be used with the ESC without overheating or frying the ESC due to the current load. So, for instance, you said you have a P2K2 - that motor is a 27T or 27-Turn motor. Most "stock" motors are 27 Turn. All that means is that the motor has a lot more torque and lot less speed. As the "Turn" number gets smaller the faster the motor goes and the hotter it runs. If you buy an ESC with lets say a 17T (17 Turn) limit that means that you can run 17T motors and above - 17, 18, 19, 20....and of course, 27T. But, if you plan on running mod motors (mod motors are typcially anything lower in number than 19, even though a 19T is considered a mild mod motor) then you would be looking for something in an ESC that can handle less than 17T motors. There are some ESC's out there that have a No Motor limit - meaning you can plug in any turn motor and that ESC can handle it - ideally, those are the ones you want cause then you never have to worry about whether or not your ESC can handle it. Hopefully that helps explain the ESC to motor limit relationship.

2. The Spur is a gear wheel that comes off the transmission or shaft of the plastic housing on the rear of an electric buggy or truck. Basically, it is what drives the shafts that turn the buggy or truck's tires and wheels on the car. The Pinion goes on the end or the shaft of the motor and when the motor is installed into the buggy or truck, it meshes with the spur gear to drive the buggy or truck. Now, typically you do not change the spur gear from stock or what you bought when you bought a kit, but some pro racers and guys who love to tweak and mess with gearing will change them from time to time. It's not something you usually do. On the other hand, the pinion gear is what you usually mess with depending on why type of motor you are running and what type of track you are running on. What do I mean by that? Well, calculation wise there is a nice formula that you can do some math on that takes into account your buggy or trucks internal drive ratio and then you plug in the spur and pinion information and it spits out a drive out ratio. Now what does that get you? Nothing unless you know what the drive ratio that is being used at any given track that is successful for other drivers. Bottomline here, you don't want to overheat your motor and gearing because you overgeared or under geared. Most R/C kits and manuals give you some preliminary guidelines in the front of the manual that comes with your buggy or truck and can help you gear accordingly. Or you can ask around and find out what others are using to come close on the gearing. There is a website that helps you with a chart for your gearing called www.gearchart.com (http://www.gearchart.com), but they are mainly focused on on-road where this particular issue is extremely important. Don't be to concerned about this - find out what others are using and gear like them to start out with and you should be fine for now.

3. See number 1 where I addressed this.

4. See number 1 where I addressed this too.

Hope that helps you out!

Welcome again!
PD2:cool:

cjtamu
09-16-2006, 09:01 AM
bBond, Paul's T4 setup won't really work with the T3, they're completely different trucks. But the T3 is a good truck and we can help you out, I'll find some that will work. If you hven't ever raced before you'll start in Novice and a stock motor will be fine. p2k2 is a very good stock motor. There are a lot of guys that can show you how to tweak it, very easy with that motor. Again on electronics, there are a lot of good, lightly used brushed motor speedos out there because people are buying brushless and letting them go. If you want we'll look around and see if we can find you a deal. But, you shoul dbe able to get a real good speedo for $65 to $75 range, less than 1/2 what you would have paid new. Buying a good one pays off in teh long run. Same thing with servos, buy good ones. Futaba 9451 is fantastic for T4/B4 and you can get it for under $80.

Bbond919
09-16-2006, 09:57 AM
sounds good guys...thanks for clearin all this up...
Gary: i remember back in the day when i was racing how every one wanted the 3ps...i might just break down and buy a jr or a spectrum setup :)

but if anyone has a sweet deal on a esc.....let me know

Gary
09-16-2006, 08:49 PM
sounds good guys...thanks for clearin all this up...
Gary: i remember back in the day when i was racing how every one wanted the 3ps...i might just break down and buy a jr or a spectrum setup :)

but if anyone has a sweet deal on a esc.....let me know
Cant go wrong with the Spectrum! :D

insaneracin2003
09-17-2006, 12:03 PM
[QUOTE=Gary]Cant go wrong with the Spectrum! :D[/QUOTE
I am not completely sold on spectrum,i just have a bad gut feeling with them. i will let everyone get spectrum and ill keep my synthasized]

Gary
09-17-2006, 03:08 PM
[QUOTE=Gary]Cant go wrong with the Spectrum! :D[/QUOTE
I am not completely sold on spectrum,i just have a bad gut feeling with them. i will let everyone get spectrum and ill keep my synthasized]
IMO, its the best RC invention since the ESC! I know they had some problems with the early versions, especially on carpet with the static electricity and all, but my DSM Pro has worked flawless. I have never had a problem with it. However, I havent used the regular size receiver yet, only the micro receiver so far.

But Im sold, 100%!

justinspeed79
09-17-2006, 06:28 PM
I have had nothing but problems since I got my spektrum DX3. I wish I would have kept my M8.

Gary
09-17-2006, 07:20 PM
I have had nothing but problems since I got my spektrum DX3. I wish I would have kept my M8.
Oh, your talking about the radio? Sorry, I have heard bad things about the radio system also. I have the M11 and bought the DSM module.

justinspeed79
09-17-2006, 08:12 PM
I mean the receivers too, but not the small ones like you have. I have the bigger ones.

Bbond919
09-18-2006, 11:50 AM
wow i had no idea........What do yall think about the Jr's?? I just wanted a nice radio with a multiple model memory, that way when i expand i dont have to buy another crappy radio..!! is their another brand or model that yall recommend?

PD2
09-18-2006, 12:58 PM
wow i had no idea........What do yall think about the Jr's?? I just wanted a nice radio with a multiple model memory, that way when i expand i dont have to buy another crappy radio..!! is their another brand or model that yall recommend?
Aside from an Airtronics 3PS that I had back in the day, I have always used JR Radios gear. I went from an AM XR2 to an FM XR3i and now own an XS3. I have never had an issue with them and every time I have needed a battery replaced, Horizon has taken care of it for free! The best thing about the Synthesized XS3 is that you have all 75MHz FM channels at the touch of button and the twist of two pots on the receiver. No more crystals! Now, it does not allow you to upgrade to any of DSM systems - in order to get that you would need to go to the Z-1. And if you consider the Z-1, you might as well go and consider the original maker of the Z-1 - KO. Then you are talking about some big bucks, but you get some BIG BANG for those bucks.

The one thing I have always used as a rule of thumb when looking at radios and deciding which to purchase is the feel of the radio. If the radio is not comfortable in your hands then it will be a lot less comfortable when you have to hold it for 5 to 20 minutes during racing. Go to the stores, go to the tracks and ask to handle some of the radios. Remember, they may be a bit heavier once they have batteries in them, but you are mainly looking for fit and feel in the grip. Next to that, I look for features and that is easy enough to determine with all the specs everyone on the net.

The only other radio you may take into consideration is the Airtronic MX-3 line. They have a MX-3S which is synthesized too, but what I have noticed is a lot of the wiz-bang features that may be exclusive to the Z-1 and KO radios appear, at times, on the Airtronics MX-3 line - even in their lowest line which is the MX-A (an AM 27 or 75MHz radio system).

Hope that helps you some - good luck in your search!

PD2:cool:

Bbond919
09-18-2006, 11:17 PM
sweet..thanks for the info.....

What kinda vehicles are being ran at the tracks... Mikes, k&m, etc.......??

cjtamu
09-19-2006, 02:10 PM
1/8 buggy and Arena Truck are by far the biggest classes just about anywhere you go. With the electrics there's more Mod than Stock. JR XR3i is a great radio if you're on a budget, esp. if you can find one used. 4 model memory, good functions, etc.