Paver Patio?

[muggs]

I am wanting to build a patio under a Burr Oak tree in my backyard. Nothing will grow under this tree, so thought I would build a patio out of pavers. My question is what style of pavers can I use that that will not harm or kill my tree? Thanks for any help!

[MissingSTexas]

I think you can use just about any style paver so long as you use a large enough spacing to allow drainage (water for the trees). We've done 2 at our camp... one with 12" square red concrete blocks that the kids use for a "Stage" and one with the smaller landscape pavers that we use for a sitting area... you can buy the 3/16" spacers from the flooring stores or home depot/lowes.

[muggs]

Sounds good, I really wanted to use the smaller pavers. What did you use to fill in the cracks? Sand?

[007]

Sounds good, I really wanted to use the smaller pavers. What did you use to fill in the cracks? Sand?

The coarse play sand that you can get at Home Depot works the best, it won't wash out as bad as regular bank sand.

[MissingSTexas]

I think it kinda depends on the project- I used play sand for the floor of the Cedar playhouse for thid kiddos, but masonry sand (it's finer) for more longer lasting projects as it binds a little better- my wife has the digital camera or I'd post up some pics to show the playhouse's floor so you can see what I mean. Also, used landscape fabric under the base layer to help keep the weeds from growing too quickly between those larger gaps...Good luck!

[scwine]

A paver patio is based on 3 parts:

1. The Base---Use some form of road base, crushed limestone, or even tilling Portland cement 4" into existing soil will work. Then compact. This first step is the hardest, longest time spent, and is by far the most important aspect of a paver patio. Home depot actually sells bags of paver base...sku 208-618

2. The Sand---Do not use play sand, you need to use a sand that has different size particles that can interlock together. You need to screed this sand to about 3/4-1" depth. This is easily done with a 2x4 and 2 pieces of rigid conduit. Home Depot's paver sand sku 229-279

3. The Pavers--Lay them without walking on the sand. After they are laid in your chosen pattern, compact them down(making only 1 pass). You can rent a compactor for a day from most Home Depots. After compacted down, they should have settled 1/4" down into the sand. You will notice that there is a minute amount of spacing in between the joints. You can use paver sand or any other at this point to fill in the joints. You may have to do this several times over the course of a week or two as there will be some settling. My favorite sand to use for this step is polymeric sand. It is sand that has a bonding agent in it(looks like sand but hardens like concrete and you do not have to worry about weeds sprouting up from seeds being blown in).

For more info.>>> http://www.pavestone.com/
Do not know why I can't get the DIY video link to work, I will try and look into it tomorrow. There is some good info. on the Paver facts page.

I would like to add, that "eco-friendly pavers" (that allow water drainage through the paver system into the ground underneath) is an emerging market. Some can be special ordered in certain areas around the country. A special order consists of whole pallet qty's. A pallet usually covers 100sq.ft.. You should see "eco-friendly pavers" more in the retail market in the coming years.

Hope this helps.

[007]

A paver patio is based on 3 parts:

1. The Base---Use some form of road base, crushed limestone, or even tilling Portland cement 4" into existing soil will work. Then compact. This first step is the hardest, longest time spent, and is by far the most important aspect of a paver patio. Home depot actually sells bags of paver base...sku 208-618

2. The Sand---Do not use play sand, you need to use a sand that has different size particles that can interlock together. You need to screed this sand to about 3/4-1" depth. This is easily done with a 2x4 and 2 pieces of rigid conduit. Home Depot's paver sand sku 229-279

3. The Pavers--Lay them without walking on the sand. After they are laid in your chosen pattern, compact them down(making only 1 pass). You can rent a compactor for a day from most Home Depots. After compacted down, they should have settled 1/4" down into the sand. You will notice that there is a minute amount of spacing in between the joints. You can use paver sand or any other at this point to fill in the joints. You may have to do this several times over the course of a week or two as there will be some settling. My favorite sand to use for this step is polymeric sand. It is sand that has a bonding agent in it(looks like sand but hardens like concrete and you do not have to worry about weeds sprouting up from seeds being blown in).

For more info.>>> http://www.pavestone.com/
Do not know why I can't get the DIY video link to work, I will try and look into it tomorrow. There is some good info. on the Paver facts page.

I would like to add, that "eco-friendly pavers" (that allow water drainage through the paver system into the ground underneath) is an emerging market. Some can be special ordered in certain areas around the country. A special order consists of whole pallet qty's. A pallet usually covers 100sq.ft.. You should see "eco-friendly pavers" more in the retail market in the coming years.

Hope this helps.

This is all good but, it's around an oak tree and you don't want to stabilize the soil or it will choke off the water source to the tree. I still stand by the play sand because it will allow water to filter in to the roots and won't wash away very easily.

[MissingSTexas]

I agree mwb007- while scwine has a perfect explaination and very detailed instructions on making a long lasting very usable patio imo renting a compactor and setting a base layer (other than sand) may damage roots or seal drainage. I am no expert and will humbly stand corrected if ya'll know otherwise... Just my 2 cents.

[huntinguy]

Guys, the oxygen exchange is as as important as the water percolation.

[MissingSTexas]

Guys, the oxygen exchange is as as important as the water percolation.
Very True...we have had luck with our setups...