problem with the johnson 88 spl

[Blue Light Special]

Gentlemen,

I purchaced my first CC and love it. The only thing is that it is not quite running right. It idles fine but when you get on it it seems to sound a little rough and smokes. I thought it would be a carb problem. I have already rebuilt the carbs and replaced all the filters and still the same. While in the water it does not want to put out. Yesterday after rebuilding the carbs it ran for 2 hour no problem, but as soon as I spend money for gas, tackle, and loading up the freinds, Same old problem. Any sugestions would be appritiated.

Thanks

[mickey]

Next thing I would check is the routing of the fuel line. Depending upon how old, you may want to pick up some new fuel hose and just replace it. Not real difficult to do. Pretty cheap as well.

[bobber]

Buddy of mine had a mid 90 model. Began to to this intermittantly. He took it in and it was the powerpack - $350.

[Muddskipper]

Never had a major issue with our Spcl 88'

Pulled the thermostates and left them out, we dont need them down here.

Watch you plugs, if they are getting fouled their might something else going on.

Call Stone and sons marine (713.686.1711), Out Board jack has kept mine running flawlessly, and I keep wondering how much longer it will last, he said another 10 years +.

[Pocketfisherman]

If it is failing when loaded, but runs OK with a light load, you likely have a fuel delivery problem. Either you're sucking air into the fuel, or you have dirty jets or clogged carb passages. A common failure point is the fuel line and primer bulb, along with the fittings on each end. The valves in the primer bulbs go bad and restrict flow, and the orings fail on the end connectors and allow air in. Also, the rubber on the under cowl fuel lines cracks over time, letting air into the carbs. Avoid removing the thermostats. True, you don't "need" them. But without them, the block will be overly cool at mid to low speeds, which means you get more unburned fuel going into the water with the exhaust, dirtier exhaust, and more unburned fuel washing oil off your rings and increasing engine wear (gas is a solvent).

If you're certain the carbs and the entire fuel delivery circuit is not your problem, start looking at ignition. New plugs and new plug wires is a good first step. Make sure the coils and powerpack have a good clean ground connection wire going to the block. Remove the screw that holds it down, and clean the terminal with emory paper and block surface until both are shiny. Replace and cover with liquid electric tape to keep it that way. Check the spark advance linkage to be sure it is set correctly (you'll need a service manual for this). Without the correct advance, the motor won't make its' rated power, and will be worse under a heavy load. If that's all good, then look at replacing the expensive powerpack.

[jsb223]

I'm thinking powerpack..

[Dani California]

Sounds kinda like double oil.

Biggie

[Blue Light Special]

I am going to be a great mechanic after checking out all of these possibilities. Thanks for the input. I will try all of pocket's ideas and if that does not work I will replace the Power pack. I found brand new one's for $100 dollars.



I did open up the tank and run my hand across the bottom and managed to scrape up some varnish on my finger tips. The only problem is to get the tank out is major open heart surgery that I would preferre not to mess with.

[LBS]

Could be power pack or head gasket. Check your compression and that should eliminate the head gasket. Kinda leans towards power pack. My old johnson had a bad power pack that only was bad about half the time. If it acted up, I just tapped it with a screw driver butt and it would start to work. You can check it by tapping it while it's running to see if it reacts. If you figure out that it is the power pack, you can save yourself alot of money by installing it yourself. I think the part cost me about $130. Two bolts and a few wire connectors and you can have it done in about 20 minutes.

Also check for water in the gas tank. I had a plastic tank that had a little water in the bottom of the tank once and it would run fine when at idle (tank was level) then when I got on plane, all of the water in the bottom of the tank would pile up in the back (where the pick up tube was) and then it would start acting like yours.

[sqwaby]

You didn't say anything about a fuel filter. If you don't have one get one. You may have started with clean carbs, but ethanol fuel will loosen a lot of sludge and break down old fuel lines which may have trashed the carbs again.

[paragod]

try a small tank to see if it runs better then u will be closer to finding out if its the big tank

[gregr1971]

get a manual for that motor, check the stator and see if it is in specs. A manual is worth every penny spent on it!!

[TheGoose]

Blue light:
There is a guy here in town (brazoria), name is chuck something or other. I know where he lives (right by the first assembly of god church), and he works on boats. I hear he is pretty good and reasonable too, it not fast. Go see him, and see what he has to say. PM me for more info.

[SABlueWave]

First things first: Compression check. I've got a 1995 Evinrude 88 SPL, and I am getting about 120psi on all 4 cylinders. You can have as low as 80-90PSI, the key is that all 4 are withing 10% of each other. If you've got one or two cylinders that are way off, you probably have carbon buildups holding your rings down and not allowing compression, or you've got a bad piston/ring/etc.

After that is checked, check your fuel lines, fuel filter, and all connections.

If those turn out OK, look at the small valves located on the block near the carbs. There should be 4 of them. They are one way check valves that allow unused fuel back into the supply line. If these valves are malfunctioning and are working both ways, it can cause similar issues. They are $16/ea if I remember correctly. You can test them with a syringe. Put some fuel or WD 40 into a syringe with a small piece of tubing. Attach the tube to the valve. If it will allow you to push fuel through it, it is no good. If it holds the pressure and does not allow you to push fuel through, it should be ok.

If you did the carb rebuild, also do the Fuel Pump Rebuild - $16.00 rebuild kit from your local napa, and very easy to install. (This was what was wrong with my engine).

Run the engine in the dark, with minimal lighting around. You will be able to tell if your plugs or plug wires are arching excessively. Mine were pretty bad...so I replaced them. $45 for all 4 plug wires, OMC (dont buy automotive wires). I know on the evinrude, the engine cowl latches tend to grab the plug wires and pull them when you try to remove the engine cover...this adds stress to these wires and can weaken them. Careful when removing and istalling that cowl.

Change the plugs. Cheap insurance. Clean and save the old ones for spares if the electrodes are good.

Also check the kill switch circuit. Sometimes the lanyard switch at the controls will 'short', and it will cause the engine to miss...thus loading the plugs up with unburnt fuel/oil, causing more smoke when it is running.

I had a similar problem...but my engine was starving for fuel at idle, but would run good at high speed. It was the fuel pump. One of the 'valves' in there was completely deteriorated. At low speed, the vaccuum and pulse off of the engine couldn't create enough pressure to pull fuel, and pump it to the carbs because there was a big air leak in the pump. BUT, at higher RPMS, the engine could overcome the big air leak. I chased things around for weeks before I finally decided to tear the fuel pump apart. I had a long thread going on another website, with several pictures of my fuel pump problem, and a few other pics. Check them out, read through them...you may have a similar problem.
My problem post (solved with a fuel pump rebuild):
http://forums.iboats.com/bbBoard.cgi?a=viewthread;fid=28;gtid=1268870

Also, if your engine has been smoking excessively, it is probably building up carbon, and you need to de-carb that engine before something worse happens (ring failure, etc.). Check out this link:
http://forums.iboats.com/bbBoard.cgi?a=viewthread;fid=36;gtid=1035563


Hope this helps.
SQ

[Blue Light Special]

Could be power pack or head gasket. Check your compression and that should eliminate the head gasket. Kinda leans towards power pack. My old johnson had a bad power pack that only was bad about half the time. If it acted up, I just tapped it with a screw driver butt and it would start to work. You can check it by tapping it while it's running to see if it reacts. If you figure out that it is the power pack, you can save yourself alot of money by installing it yourself. I think the part cost me about $130. Two bolts and a few wire connectors and you can have it done in about 20 minutes.

Also check for water in the gas tank. I had a plastic tank that had a little water in the bottom of the tank once and it would run fine when at idle (tank was level) then when I got on plane, all of the water in the bottom of the tank would pile up in the back (where the pick up tube was) and then it would start acting like yours.
the last time I tried it on the water it ran fine for the first 10 mins then started acting up. I took LCD's advice and taped the power pack with a screw driver while it was under a load. Every time I tapped it, the engine would re-act. I firmly belive that this will solve the problem. I already ordered one from marineengine.com for about $85.00. it should be here Wednesday. I can't wait to change it out and try it out again. Mabey that should do it I hope.
After all this is done I will have one tip top engine with alot of new parts.

Wish me Luck gentlemen.

[Blue Light Special]

Sorry,

I meant LBS instead of LCD. I have a bad memory.

Hey thanks all for the advise. Thanks to you guys I have managed to repair every thing for under $200 dollars.

[SABlueWave]

Be sure to post up once you get your power pack installed.

I'm hopeful and anxious to hear that it fixed your trouble. There's nothing worse than being dry-docked when there are 12lb trout being caught in our bays!

Good luck.

[scottrboat]

I have had 3 4cyl Johnson/Evins in my fun boating career. Still the best engines I have come across. I had a 120, 85? old one with electric shift? and 88. My 88 runs great. Rick Rees in Lamarque is great for troubleshooting. Stay away from alvin marine.

[brokemotor]

Ye old hammer test. That will tell you somethings the meter won't show you.

[Blue Light Special]

The Power Pack showed up and she went strait on. Had a chance to take her out today and wow. What a difference it makes when it runs good. I ran it hard for 3 hours woth out a miss. I was so happy I threw a line and hooked a 16in flounder. Off color water on a dark Texas Red Killer. Hard bottom 1ft deep, back buyou.

Looks Like it will be a good season.

Thanks for the imput gentle men. Fixed the problem for less than $100

[LBS]

Glad it worked out for you and glad you saved some $$$!!

[RayAM]

Call Perkins Marine in Alvin. They will fix you up.



MAKO19

[Rick miller]

Please watch out for the high RPMs . The ring can catch on the top of the cylinder wall and knock off a small piece and then the problems start . The things I've heard are that this maybe a common problem ... happened to me and 2 other friends . Same cylinder , same problem . If you can get a compression check and get good results then get a warm fuzzy.